noises...help.

[worfa]

ok i have head unit installed, a mates 2 channel 35 watt amp runing 6X9s. i get a sorta shshhsshshhhh noise
is this the power cabling from the hedaunit to the amp or is the ground or either ?
also i get high pitched noise as teh car revs. what cables do i neeed to replace??
thanks


also where are the catches to get the rear parcel shelf out of an 89 camry

[tomee]

as in the shhshshshs noise ur on about, does it happen when ur engines off? try this and pause teh music if u still get the shshshs noise i think maybe ur amp gains are set to high.

looks like uve got engine noise, either try re routing ur wiring, or check ur grounds

have u seperated the power from rca's and speaker cables? run the power on the left side while the rcas on teh right. since u have a camry the batt will be located on the left side of teh car.
then check ur grounding for the amp, is it terminated on bare metal? if not sand back the paint and put a nice fat gold plated terminal and bolt it down. while adding some vaseline to it after ur done to stop it from rusting.

also check ur wiring to make sure no power wire is crossing ur ground, rca or speaker cable near the amp

hope this helps :)

[Evo_Lee]

Originally posted by worfa
ok i have head unit installed, a mates 2 channel 35 watt amp runing 6X9s. i get a sorta shshhsshshhhh noise
is this the power cabling from the hedaunit to the amp or is the ground or either ?
also i get high pitched noise as teh car revs. what cables do i neeed to replace??
thanks


also where are the catches to get the rear parcel shelf out of an 89 camry

It sounds like earthing and you need a noise filter...sorry can't help you with the wiring.

[worfa]

yes the noise happens when the engine is off.

does anyone know where the latches are for the rear shelf removal.

also its not an amp with gains. you dont need a seperate power cable, i just connected it to the h/u power. or is that a problem. the rcas and power crossing thing shouldnt be a problem cuz of the gay amp that it is.

[DEFVT]

What size power earth and speaker cable you using there ?

[worfa]

quite small. just what i had lieing around the place. perhaps this is the problem.

[DEFVT]

Try quality cable such as stinger etc

[teK]

I wouldn't bother with Stinger etc high cost cable unless you are pedantic about it looking good and will be sending it to auto salons. The performance between car audio power/speaker cables is neglible as long as you get the gauge right. Copper is copper, coat it with silicon insulation and that's all you need.

Let's establish a few things.

A) You're running power to the amp from the same wire that your head unit is getting constant power from? Why? It should have it's own dedicated power cable right from the battery. Since it's a small amp 8GA will be sufficient. Remember to place a fuse as close to the battery as possible.

B) If the amp doesn't have gains then try relocating the RCA away from large factory looms, the ECU etc. This is especially important since there is no gain control.

C) The sound when you rev is caused by the engine computer being too close to the amp input cables, loose spark plug leads. The sound when the engine is off could be caused by:

- Disconnect the inputs from the amp, is the noise still there? If so check the power cable and grounding point. Check that the amp isn't touching anything metal. If it isn't,
- Reconnect the inputs at the amp but disconnect them from the head unit. is the noise still there? If it is try re-routing these cables. If it isn't,
- If the noise is still there it's coming from the head unit. Check power and ground cables, and install new cable/ground if necessary.

[Cplus]

Originally posted by teK
Copper is copper, coat it with silicon insulation and that's all you need.

Tek, remember what I told you about shooting off about things you don't know about or understand? The advice you're been giving lately isn't too bad - just don't add comments for the sake of it bub.

Not all copper, and not all cables is/are created equally.

[teK]

Cplus can you explain the major difference between any two types of power/speaker cables on the market then, and the pros and cons. I was emphasising the importance on selecting correct wire gauge, instead of DEFVT's advice of simply upgrading to brand name cable.

I see why Stinger can charge so much for their cabling when it is essentially the same functionality. You are just paying for packaging and advertising, sponsorship campaigns etc. I cannot honestly believe that generic power cable and stinger cable has any measurable performance benefit.

If you look at RCA cables etc that's a whole new discussion but a length of power cable really is nothing more than copper strands wrapped in insulation!

I dug this up from my old copy of rec.audio.car FAQ:

There is much debate over the benefit of certain wiring schemes (oxygen-free, multistranded, braided, twisted, air core, you name it). However, most people do agree that the most important factor in selecting power wire is to use the proper size.

[Cplus]

You're right (well the guy that told you is), size is the most important factor.

But not all copper is the same. Poor quality metals, not just copper, have more impurities in them and this can greatly change their properties. I was merely telling you not to make stupid statement.

How this applies to Car Audio cables is that these impurities can change current handling capabilites amonst other things. however this is a smaller factor compared to contruction. Quality of sheathing, mainly thickness, flexibilty, mouldability, will determine how long the cable will last in the harsh environment that we call an engine bay. Will also alter the insulative propeties of the cable, and to a lesser extend noise transmission (much lesser extent). The number of strands will affect the flexibilty of the cable - important for installation - and also affect the resistance of cable of a given distance.

Go get five meters of 8ga (common length from battery to boot in a sedan) of Cheapo wire, Streetwires and Jaycar(response) brand and a multimeter. I bet the resistance shown on Cheapo (prolly still dearer than Jaycar however) is about double that of the other two.

I've used all brands of cable over the years. The cheap Jaycar stuff is the best for it's price. It's 8ga is not as good as the 8ga brand name, but you can afford 4ga for the price of the other 8ga. But Not all Copper is the same........

Answer the question?

[AutokaT]

geeezz CPLUS..thats being fairly harsh for a small comment man..I would realy have let it slide.....to 9 outa 10 people there realy is no differance in power cables cause they are going to use shitty terminals and fuses on the good wire anyway..:)

the diffferance between oxegen free and anneled(sp) copper that the cable guy's use is almost unmeasurable once installed with above said shitty connectors so in essance TEK was right in saying that as long as you use a heavy guage there is buggerall difference.
You also have to take into account the onboard capacitance of the amp being wired too..IE: a good amp with lots of onboard capacitance will tollerate a much worse power supply than a cheap amp that rely's heavily of the speed that it's small amout of capacitance can be recharged...ERMM,..put simply the exspensive amp will iorn out the bumps???
You know what I mean??

[Kinks]

Cplus that was a bit harsh. Unless the cable is shitty quality or too small for the job you won't notice the difference.

[teK]

Yeah guys don't forget that I am under the impression that Cplus is

a) Even greater a perfectionist/know-it-all/Hardass than I am

or

b) Someone who doesn't like me

But I and we all love you Cplus!!! :)