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2JZR31
22-08-05, 12:38 PM
SOLD. Congrats Ryan.

PROGRESS UPDATES (for lazy pricks that couldn't be bothered reading the the whole build thread :p)


This conversion has been done while consulting an engineer and has blue plates codes for, engine, turbo and brake conversion.



Stage 2
355rwkw @ 22psi
10.839 @ 125.38mph with 1.627 60 foot with 4000rpm converter (hit the rev limit in 3rd) Running MT drag radials.


11.468 @ 124mph with 2.071 60 foot with 2800rpm converter.
Best MPH 125.38

GT35R 1.06 internal gate (DIY ported gate)
3.5" dump into 3.1" truck exhaust.
MV Stage 1.5 shift kit.
550cc Supra injectors.
USDM supra intake cam.
4.11 LSD.
Z32 4 piston brake upgrade
17" Wheels to clear brakes
New colour coded white (was two tone with grey)
SAFC
Still runs standard ECU as there no need to change it (what more proof do you need) and this keeps things legal.




Stage 1.
241rwkw @ 16psi
12.5 @ 115mph, 2.0 with 60 foot
Stock turbos, with ported wastegate
3.1" truck exhaust.
Ebay 600x300x100 FMIC
Bosch 044 fuel pump
$25 used Advan tires on polished TI wheels.
3.7 open centre diff.
Trans cooler.
Stock ECU.

Custom/modified engine and gearbox mounts.
Custom modified drive shaft.

Lowered springs. (not that low)
Selby swaybars. (custom front bar to clear sump)
Koni red shocks.
Pedders polyurethane buses in lower rear control arms.
Nimbus brake booster (to clear stock turbos and bigger master cyl)
Larger piston callipers on stock rotors up front with race pads.


__________________________________________________ _________






Hi guys

On the weekend I pulled out the the 2JZ and trans from an Aristo halfcut and slotted it into my R31. My mates and I are doing all the work ourselves.

Problems encountered so far are:

Rear turbo comes too close to the brake booster. I might mount engine to the side a bit and/or fit a smaller diameter booster.

Exhaust Y piece exits directly where the steering shaft is. I can make some custom dump pipes to clear it.

The exhaust is on the wrong side. I might have to limit the exhaust diameter from the turbos to where I have to cross over to the correct side just after the trans. But I have heard this part of the exhaust should not be too big with the standard turbos as the wastegate is too small to prevent overboosting with a large dump pipe.

Mounts, I can just make engine mounts up and modify the R31 gearbox cross member.

The No1 turbo looks pretty dodgy with worn compressor blades. Im not sure what to do with this yet?

Wiring of engine and trans. This is where I was hoping someone here might have an aristo diagram? Can anyone please steer me in the right direction for this?

Any other tips or suggestions would be great too. I don't want a big single turbo ATM I just want to get the stock gear running first.

Cheers :)

fatgts
22-08-05, 01:06 PM
sell the twins and put a single on that will make it alot easier re steering collum and brake booster

cheers
oete

Norbie
22-08-05, 06:33 PM
Wiring of engine and trans. This is where I was hoping someone here might have an aristo diagram? Can anyone please steer me in the right direction for this?
http://www.supras.nl/
All you really need to make it run is connect +12v to the relevant pins on the ECU and hook up the starter circuit. The rest of the loom can go in the bin.

tim510
22-08-05, 06:37 PM
but norbie, isn't an exhaust restricter, resistors on the TPS and multiple hours of fucking about required to get the aristos working?

JZK25
22-08-05, 09:17 PM
I've got some Aristo turbos in my wheelie bin that I could fish out and sell for a reasonable price if you are concerned about compressor wear. :)

2JZR31
23-08-05, 01:55 AM
but norbie, isn't an exhaust restricter, resistors on the TPS and multiple hours of fucking about required to get the aristos working?

I hope you are wrong and norbie is right!!! :p I have heard about 2JZ engines overboosting if you make an exhaust that flows too well.

Norbie, Sirpsychosexy has invited me over to take a look at the work you two done on his 2JZ conversion. Did you hook up the aristo auto on his setup?

Here are some dodgy pics. They don't show a lot. First pic is the build team, my brother Gary and I, Dan took the pic. Gary is the tall guy. He can machine parts up at his work where he has access to 6 CNC machines. Other mates can do welding for me if I tack the bits together first (I only have limited welding experience)

You can see that the engine sits in no probs besides clearance to the booster. We chopped out the top radiator support panel to make slotting the engine in and out 10 times more simple. Its probably going to come in and out 20 times until we are happy with its position and mounts are made.

Check out how clean the inlet manifold looks! You can see the obvious crankcase oil on the first few runners but the rest are sparkling clean! Not even any carbon build up at all! Garys 1JZ had a thick black carbon layer inside the plenum and runners at less than 100,000 km and his auto soarer does a 13.6 with minimal mods. I hope this is a good sign for my engine. Well I was glad to see a good sign after I saw the dodgy compressor blades on turbo 1. I will try to get a pic of the blades too. I am hoping the blades were damaged in the crash, as the airbox and inlet pipes would have been smashed in the crash, bits may have got sucked in then (the pole went right up past that side of the engine). I could not see any oil on the compressor blades. I hope they were not damaged because the previous owner used a dodgy air filter that sucked in rocks!

Norbie
23-08-05, 11:59 AM
Tim is referring to another PF member who had all manner of trouble getting his Aristo engine to run properly after using the wrong fuel cut defender. 2JZ's are kind of weird in this regard, you can't use generic FCD's.

Yes you will probably need an exhaust restrictor if you're not using the factory dump pipe (which is quite restrictive itself). Either that or try to improve the factory wastegate which is woefully inadequate once you start winding up the boost.

As for Sirpsychosexy's conversion, the auto wiring is hooked up but we haven't taken it for a test drive yet so we don't know if it will behave. There's no need to touch the wiring itself though, all the engine/transmission wiring is bundled together and plugs into the ECU, so you don't have to dick with anything. The only thing we're not sure of is if it needs any of the other wiring we removed, eg ABS, traction control, factory intruments, all the rest of it. I doubt it will make any difference but who knows - I've never tried to get the factory auto running before (I converted my car to manual) so I don't know how fussy they are.

Carlos the Jackal
23-08-05, 06:51 PM
Couldn't find the wiring diagrams on the website, got a more direct link?

Impakt

Norbie
23-08-05, 11:28 PM
Hmmm, he's totally changed the site and I can't find anything either. Bummer.

Oh well, there's always the US-spec Supra manual:
http://mkiv.com/manual/

2JZR31
24-08-05, 12:33 AM
Thanks guys. I hope I have the same setup as Sirpsychosexy, the loom that comes from the engine and trans on mine splits up into 2 large plug couplers. One goes the the ECU and the other plugs into the Aristo loom and wires go in all directions from there. Was the aristo cut you used the single or double headlight model?

Do you know if the stock wastegate system has ever been successfully modded before to prevent overboosting? I have the turbos off ATM so now is the time to do it. I was thinking of just boreing out the hole and adding a bigger valve, but there does not seem to be a heap of room?

Carlos the Jackal
24-08-05, 10:54 AM
One goes the the ECU and the other plugs into the Aristo loom and wires go in all directions from there. Was the aristo cut you used the single or double headlight model?
That sounds very promising, maybe the aristo-GS300 conversion is shit easy if this plug goes into the GS300 loom. This would include the wiring to control speedo, fuel pumps, and get power etc (hopefully)

Norbie
24-08-05, 12:35 PM
Thanks guys. I hope I have the same setup as Sirpsychosexy, the loom that comes from the engine and trans on mine splits up into 2 large plug couplers. One goes the the ECU and the other plugs into the Aristo loom and wires go in all directions from there. Was the aristo cut you used the single or double headlight model?
It was a JZS147 Aristo. Don't know about headlights sorry.

Do you know if the stock wastegate system has ever been successfully modded before to prevent overboosting? I have the turbos off ATM so now is the time to do it. I was thinking of just boreing out the hole and adding a bigger valve, but there does not seem to be a heap of room?
Yes you can overbore the stock wastegate a bit, about 2mm from memory. Talk to Stenno, he did some research into this. It's really not enough though, which is why I'm planning to disable the internal wastegate entirely and install an external wastegate.

2JZR31
25-08-05, 12:21 AM
I'm pretty sure that I have the JZS147. This is a pic of one http://www.motor-p.jp/ps-wave/images/elite/jzs147.jpg

Your external wastegate sounds like a good idea, but since I have lathes and milling machines available I might try and make the hole bigger. I reckon I can get over 3mm. I think you could do 2mm with the same size valve, but I reckon you might be able to go bigger with an oversized valve.

Where would you fit the external gate? There does not seem to be a heap of room in the manifold system. You still use sequential mode right?

Norbie
25-08-05, 10:12 AM
Nope, I'm running TTC now and when I install the external wastegate I'll be permanently removing all of the sequential hardware.

The wastegate will be installed at the end of the dump pipe and connected to the manifolds where the balance pipe currently is.

2JZR31
25-08-05, 10:35 AM
Why dont uou just use 2 X No1 turbos?

Norbie
25-08-05, 04:01 PM
1. I don't have 2x no. 1 turbos

2. I do have an external wastegate

3. This will work better. :)

2JZR31
26-08-05, 12:02 AM
Ok cool. By this weekend I will have 5 and a half 2JZ turbos. They seem to be a dime a dozen. The importer gave me a new one, and I am picking up a set for $100.

Putting a external gate in the middle would give a pretty good flow properties I reckon, as not all the exhaust gas will have to flow through the pissy turbine housing openings. What about the flex pipe? Are you worried about cracking?

2JZR31
29-08-05, 08:47 PM
I went to a wrecker and looked for brake boosters. I found a Mitsubishi Nimbus (van) booster which has a slightly smaller diameter but has twin diagrams and a largish master cylinder. It basically bolts right up to where the old one was with hardly any mods. I am waiting to get my block an tackle back so I can see if it has solved my clearance issues in that area.

Norbie. Thanks for filling me in on the wiring of Eds car. That saved me a shitload of time.

2JZR31
31-08-05, 07:09 PM
I have it resting in place, its 30mm further forward than the RB30, about 10mm to the passenger side, the whole thing sits about 25mm lower than the RB.

Are this position shifts acceptable?

ALLMTR
31-08-05, 08:59 PM
Your only talking around an inch so no problem........

2JZR31
31-08-05, 09:11 PM
Cool. :)

And no one reckons that moving the whole engine slightly to the passenger side will be overly dodgy? I reckon that it would help weight balance if anything, given all the heavy stuff is on the drivers side, ie driver, spare wheel, fueltank, steering, battery etc. Just trying to justify it :D

Norbie
31-08-05, 09:24 PM
It is slightly dodgy in that the tailshaft won't be at the correct angle any more. This can mean bad news for the longevity of the universal joints.

2JZR31
31-08-05, 09:48 PM
I was thinking it would be no worse than lowering you car etc though. I put over 10mm of spacer washers under my CV joint crossmember to stop vibration. So I'm thinking this much of a movement is no worse than other things that happen on cars all the time anyway. People lower there car 3" or more so I am thinking this problem would be a non issue. 100mm lowering job VS engine 10mm to the side, Whats worse?

Thoughts?

tandy ass
31-08-05, 09:56 PM
Mr Dennis:

Read the following, it explains in minor detail why it may be much more detrimental going sideways versus up and down:

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0203sr_driving/

2JZR31
31-08-05, 10:51 PM
Thanks Bozz. I read it all but I am still not 100% on why moving to the side is worse than up and down. I couldn't get the diagrams to work.

Can someone exlplain it? Is it becuase of "Uncanceled U-joint working angles"? I just realised there is a whole lot more to drive line agles than what first meets the eye. I think it requires a new thread. Here is my drive line angle thread http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67194878&highlight=driveline+angles

Zac
31-08-05, 11:08 PM
Although on an IRS vehicle the differential stays located thus the angle of the tailshaft mostly stays the same.

2JZR31
31-08-05, 11:25 PM
People don't just lower cars with IRS. My car is live axle, but can we please talk about it in this thread. http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67194878&highlight=driveline+angles I want to try and keep this thread mainly just about my conversion. Cheers :)

Mr Ed
01-09-05, 11:01 AM
Hmmm that supras.nl site is completely different. Thats a shame, it had heaps of useful stuff on there and we found that more "authentic" looking diagrams on mkiv.com were actually not completely compatable with an aristo.

I'll photocopy my printout from supras.nl for you. :)

2JZR31
02-09-05, 10:19 AM
Cheers mate :)

2JZR31
03-09-05, 12:37 AM
The 2JZ turbo system uses only 1 wastegate to control boost for both turbos. This system has been shown time an time again to be to small for boost control, and people have long been putting up with 2.5" restrictors in their exhausts to limit boost. A 2.5" restrictor can't be good for power.

So today we bored the 2 No1 turbine housings I had out from 25.7mm to 33mm. Thats a 65% increase in size. (I had a spare one) We also machined a new valve seat but we could only go 1.5mm bigger for fear of thin spots on the turbine housing. Next I will need to make a new valve out of stainless steel to seal on the new valve seat. The new wastegate passage is the same size as the old valve.

Standard:
Wastegate = 25.7mm, 518.7mm sq
Valve = 33.1mm
Valve overlap = 3.7mm

Modified:
Wastegate = 33mm, 855mm sq,
Valve = 37mm
Valve overlap = 2mm

The valve overlap has to be reduced because the seat could only be made 1.5mm larger due to thinness of the turbine housing.

I only had a really crap cammera but here are some pics that might help you understand what we done. The first pic is the CNC lathe. The second pic shows the lath tool with a locator that we made to center the wastegate in the machine. We machined a 25.7mm locator which slots into the waste gate, this makes sure the turbine housing is true and any programs we put into the lathe will bore concentrically around the old wastegate. The third pic shows the CNC lathe milling out the material from the turbine housing. The head of the machine moves around in the way we program it. Its interesting to watch it machine the whole lot in one go as the head moves around and does its thing.

I will get some close ups of the what we done with a better cammera.

Next will be machining a new valve.

JZK25
03-09-05, 10:44 AM
Nice work, that should work well.
Are the front and rear turbo outlets seperated from each other? If they are you can also use a larger dump pipe size on the rear turbo as I think it has a larger exhaust housing(can't check now because you have them but I though it was).

P.S. I want a CNC mill.

2JZR31
03-09-05, 11:08 AM
I checked them out, they appear to be exactly the same size. Most sequential systems use different turbo trims, but the 2JZ uses 2 turbos that are exactly the same trim, the only differnce is that the No2 turbo's wastegate works as a pre-spooler and does not limit boost. Hence the reason I only modded the No1 turbo.

heh heh. Pretty cool equipment hey! My brother works at that machine shop which BUILDS lathes. They have the most hardcore gear I have ever seen. I think they have about 6 CNC lathes there. Plus the biggest CNC milling machine in the southern hemisphere. I used to work there too, and I have known the owner my entire life. That said, you don't need that gear to do what I have done, you could do it on a drill press with an end mill, die grinder and some enginuity. This job took about 2.5 hours, so expect to pay HUGE $$$ if you went into an engineering place to get it done. I have spoken to the boss there and they said they could probably do more of them for a reasonable price though, as any more would take a lot less time than the first ones. Lets just see if it works first.

R.eks4
03-09-05, 09:09 PM
hey dennis,

good to see your long running plans coming to fruition. :cool:

i should have my rx3 and licence back in the next month, so we'll have to hook up and go for a few runs when your project is completed.

i had to smile when i saw the photo of you and gare...can you feel the love? :rotflol:

2JZR31
04-09-05, 01:22 AM
heh heh, might have to give you a run eh. It went from RB20DET to RB25DET to RB30DE to RB30DET, insanity started to take hold when I wanted a 1JZ and I thought I may as well start doing it once I reached the 2JZ line of thinking, or next I would have been measuring ford Boss 260 engines.

Have you got that turbo on yet?

Belly_up
04-09-05, 10:19 AM
Plus the biggest CNC milling machine in the southern hemisphere.

How big is the working envelope on that one? the last one i worked with did 12m * 4m * 3m :D

2JZR31
04-09-05, 11:02 AM
I think you win on that one. :D I remember when they got the machine, the were proud how it was the biggest of its class along with a few others that were exactly the same type. This was about 10 years ago when the boss was huffing about it. So in reality I don't know much about it besides its a big mofo. Its longer than 12m but only does stuff about 1m high by about 2 wide.

Belly_up
04-09-05, 12:47 PM
yeah, kinda depends on how you define the difference between a CNC mill and a CNC router, i think ours was technically a router because it didn't machine metal.

R.eks4
04-09-05, 09:04 PM
heh heh, might have to give you a run eh. It went from RB20DET to RB25DET to RB30DE to RB30DET, insanity started to take hold when I wanted a 1JZ and I thought I may as well start doing it once I reached the 2JZ line of thinking, or next I would have been measuring ford Boss 260 engines.

Have you got that turbo on yet?


i'm not 100% about what stage the car is at currently, but the turbo, cooler and exhaust should all be on and just waiting on tuning. along with that, i also have an early 626 coupe project (rotary converted, i'll never learn) i picked up cheaply to have a bit of fun with.

you're on a winner with the 2jz, and it would definately be more than a match for the rx (hoping for about 200rwkw with the mild setup i've gone for)

i also have a 450x300x76 "hybrid" cooler spare for cheap if you're chasing one for your car. it wouldn't fit the mazda right so i went for a massive pwr item instead.

2JZR31
04-09-05, 09:24 PM
If I push it I may be able to get 250rwkw, but I will probably normaly have it downtuned to about 210 to save the turbos. I think the RX will kick me being so light with similar power, but I reckon the 31 will be a hole shot hero with the auto and huge torque. I reckon i'll get ya of the mark and you will come flying past in the second half of the 400m after you get traction :D. Anyhow you will have to give me a PM when its done. Just keep looking here for updates on mine. :)

With those coolers being so cheap, I may aswell just get a new one thats 105mm thick and 600mm long, they are sometimes less than $300.

Cheers Dennis :)

R.eks4
04-09-05, 09:51 PM
just don't forget some decent tyres this time and maybe an lsd too ;) . the mazda won't be too bad off the mark...we anticipate full boost by 2500/3000rpm (7500rpm redline) and it has 4.44 limo diff gears so it should go pretty quick with decent traction (235/17s).


the 'line will be an awesome sleeper though, leave the stockers on complete with kick-ons and maybe get them widened to aid the serious traction issues you will be facing with 450nm+. :D

2JZR31
04-09-05, 09:53 PM
With your traction issues sorted I will be a gonner from the line. Nothing lauches like a well set up light turbo rotor. :D I really want to keep the stock wheels but I think I should be responsible and fit bigger rims so I can get decent brakes.

2JZR31
16-09-05, 01:26 PM
The mounts are made and the engine is sitting there in a trial fit. Final position is 9mm to the passenger side plus I added a slight lean. With this position and the nimbus booster there is clearance. The whole engine only sits 16mm futher forward than the RB30.

I made the mounts by postitioning the engine where I wanted it. Then we made the two mounting plates, the one that goes on the block (used the 2JZ alloy mounts as a template) and one that goes on the rubber mount (just made this one longer than it needed to be then cut it off later) Then I stuffed around for ages with tin plate and made templates for the angled piece that joins it all up. We marked were the templates sitted on the other to plates then made them out of metal and welded it up. It would be easier to use some good cardboard but I didn't have any.

Sorry for my crap pics, ($80 camera) anyone got a decent one for sale?

2JZR31
23-09-05, 02:14 PM
I got some cheap 3" SS pipe for the cooler for $180. The mandrel bends are not all 100% smooth, but its good enough for me specially considering the price.

Here is the drive shaft with the Aristo yolk welded into place. It was done by Driveshaft Services, Archerfield for $270 including new centre bearing and full balancing etc. Its my old shaft with a custom front section. See this thread for more details on it. Drive shaft mods (http://pforums.company-hosting.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67195075&page=1)

Carlos the Jackal
23-09-05, 02:29 PM
Dennis: Thanks for the updates! I'm really interested in this process in case i win lotto and get my hands on a GS300. I'll be really interested come wiring time..

Impakt

2JZR31
23-09-05, 02:52 PM
That would have to be one of my all time favorite conversions, that or a 240Z with a 1.5JZ!!

R.eks4
16-10-05, 04:15 PM
any updates dennis? i'm sure there's a few people who would are keen to hear more about how this beastie is progressing :cool:

2JZR31
16-10-05, 04:28 PM
Yeah things are getting done. I am up the point where I need the exhaust dumps from the turbos made. I have decided the best place to cross the exhaust over will be under the engine between the crossmember and transmission. So I have the engine hanging up and will have the dumps and crossover pipe made. A mate said he could help me out and he will come over next week to take a look. After that is made I can put the manifolds etc back to ether and put the engine in the car for the last time, then its just cooler piping, wiring, exhaust, gearbox crossmember etc. That should go fairly quick though I hope.

R.eks4
16-10-05, 06:06 PM
nice, good to see you haven't lost your enthusiasm. ;) keep us posted with a few pics hey?

2JZR31
26-10-05, 08:06 PM
The wastegate mods are finished and now I am waiting on my exhaust dump. I found someone that can cut the dump pipe flange for $25 and then my mate an I will have to figure something out to clear the steering shaft.

2JZR31
24-11-05, 08:16 PM
Thanks to JZK25, I became aware of the fact an Aristo 2JZ does not have provision for the connection of a brake booster vacuum line since the brakes work off some fandangled electro servo booster or something. Anyway, I got a $6 airline fitting and connected it by drilling and tapping a hole in the back of the plenum. The alloy is about 15mm thick in that area. Apparently the supra has it on top, but as you can see the 2JZ is already cluttered enough with hoses and shit everywhere and I liked the idea of the plenum not having stuff sticking out everywhere for cosmetic reasons.

I spruced the engine up a fair bit by ripping all the manifolds and pipes off and putting them on the wire wheel as I did with the cam covers. They are no where near what I would call polished, but I had to do something about the crusty state of the engine. I replaced all the old hoses with blue silicone. I thought I was never going to figure out where they all went, but they actually came together without to much drama.

Tomorrow I will wire the engine back up and do some more wiring, hopefully I'll be able to start it in the near future :)

JZK25
24-11-05, 08:27 PM
Nice transformation, want a job? ;)

2JZR31
24-11-05, 08:39 PM
Cheers :) Trust me, it does not look that good in person. Shit it took ages to get it looking like that and a metal polisher would cringe at all the burn marks and alloy scouring from the wire wheel. No wonder I was quoted $300 just to get the cam covers polished. To do the whole engine right would cost like 2K!

2JZR31
26-11-05, 08:28 PM
I got her started today. Sounds like a tractor cross 4cyl commodore. :(

R.eks4
27-11-05, 10:02 AM
I got her started today. Sounds like a tractor cross 4cyl commodore. :(

damn dude, that sucks :sad: . maybe it just needs the cobwebs cleaned out? ;) i might also add that pf needs a tech section dedicated entirely to both yourself and this conversion given the number of threads you've posted so far. :rotflol:

haven't got my car back yet if that makes you feel better.

2JZR31
27-11-05, 05:33 PM
I'm gonna link to all the treads I started on this to make a kind of 2JZ conversion eniclodpedia. :p

I'd rather take a variety of people opinions when deciding what to do instead of handing my car and shitloads of cash over to some workshop which may or may not stuff my car up. (I have heard waaay to many engine conversion horror stories ending in enormous bills for a half completed bodgy car) At least this way, if I stuff it up I have only got myself to blame and I can make sure everything is done to my satisfaction.

I reckon there's probably just some minor prob with the engine, like some hoses or sensors. Probably no big deal... I hope :D

Chad
28-11-05, 03:08 PM
You got quoetd $300 for the polishing of the cam covers on your 2j???
You spend that much money on a 3/4hp bench grinder from bunnings, some polishing wheels from aitken or something and a couple of different polishing compound sticks and you will be able to do a lot of it yourself for that money. You just need to sand the casting marks out of it first. If you have an air compressor and a die grinder, it is easy with some flapper wheels.

I am on the gold coast, if you want any hints and tips for the polishing I am happy to help, I did Nicks (previous forum owner) 1jz pipes n stuff a while back and they didn't come up too badly.

Chad

2JZR31
04-12-05, 01:03 PM
Found the major part of the shit running prob. Cam timing was out by 2 teeth. How embarrassment. :gay:

I found this out when I put the harmonic balancer back on and actually checked it properly with the real timing marks as opposed to my dodgy pen marks :D

JZK25
04-12-05, 07:08 PM
Leave it out a tooth and tell everyone you have HKS "step 2" cams. :gay:
Sure to impress. :D

Does it do skids now?

2JZR31
04-12-05, 07:14 PM
hehe. Or I could put both cams back out 2 teeth again and tell everyone I have antilag.

No skids yet :) Still need a radiator and gearbox x member.

2JZR31
10-12-05, 11:12 PM
Found the remaining part of my shit running prob. One injector does not seem to work at all (I swaped it around to make sure) The thing was working, and must have died recently for some reason. I now need to find one new injector somewhere.

I got the radiator plumbing done with a bit of mix and matching at the hose rack supercheap. Got a mazda and falcon hose to meet up with a few mods.

Carlos the Jackal
12-12-05, 07:55 AM
Can you please tell me how hard it ws to wire the motor? I take it you used the stock ECU? Was there alot of stuffing around to get the thing wired up?

Thanks,
Impakt

2JZR31
12-12-05, 09:17 AM
Well I have not driven the car yet so I can't be sure the engine and auto run 100%, but what I have done so far was piss easy. Thers about 6 wires you need to join 12V to and thats it :)

2JZR31
22-01-06, 08:39 PM
I hooked the shifter up which took a bit of stuffing around and it's still not 100%. The rod which runs from the R31 Tbar to the 2JZ trans was too short so I got a piece welded into it so it would reach. Once it was connected, it would shift but the throw on it was wrong. The Tbar only had to move through 2/3's of its position in order to go through all the gears. So I calculated that if I made the selector bar on the trans 2/3's longer it should make the Tbar operate correctly and all the gears would line up in the console. (the modded selector bar thingo is shown in the pic) Now it hits another part of the trans so I can't select first. I should be able to just cut and shut it again at a different agle.

For some reason there was no throttle cable bracket on the engine so I had to make one. (shown in pic)

I finally made the gearbox X member. See this thread for details Gearbox X-member thread. (http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=839483046&posted=1#post839483046) And I joined up the drive shaft, filled up some trans oil and drove the car 5 meters then ran out of fuel. It was for the best though because my dodgy Mitsu Nimbus brakes don't work yet. I tried to bleed the system, but there is an extra hole for 4 brake lines and the R31 only uses 3 (rear brakes only have 1 line that splits at the rear of the car). Now I need to find some sort of bung to close up the extra hole. I will be interested to see if they even work :D

There is still no cooler plumbing or exhaust yet. I am happy that the thing can move by itself now, I'm sick of pushing it and out of the shed :D

2JZR31
11-02-06, 06:28 PM
Does it do skids now?

Yes, yes it does :D

I took a propor test run today (no bonnet no exhaust and no registration ) It boosted up to 10 psi in the low RPM range (and starts to pull OK) then boost tapered right off to a few PSI in the higher RPM and power dies off heaps. So there is a prob with the sequential system no bringing the second turbo online.

So I wired the exhaust valve and the other valve for the second turbo open and took it for another spin. And by spin I mean wheel spin! Onlookers said it was twice as loud with this wired open. I didn't go too hard considering its not legal yet so I just went round the block once. When boost came on the wheels just spun and it hit the rev limiter. Well I sounded like the rev limiter, which would be good because if it was the rev limiter it means my wastegate mods worked well considering I was driving with no exhaust.

I'v got no idea on how to troubleshoot the sequential system though.

R.eks4
11-02-06, 07:17 PM
sounds awesome man, would have been choice to hear it without the zorst. hope you get your probs with the boosting sorted soon. :)

Kiahatsiu
11-02-06, 07:44 PM
2jzr31. I saw the problem you are describing on another 2j recently. Norbie checked all the sequential plumbing and it seemed to be okay but it was still not boosting....Then all of a sudden, it started working fine...
Norbie's theory, one which i am going to steal, is that the rod on the sequential thing was a bit stuck. The one on Norbie's supra moves quite freely, but the one of the car with the problems did not. Norbie pried and jimmyed it when he was checking the plumbing, and about 15 min later the car was making boost. Something to think about.

2JZR31
11-02-06, 08:57 PM
I asked about it on the supra forums where Norbie posts a lot. I hope he gives some insight. I did rip every hose, actuator and wire of the engine so I could just have done something wrong. It would probably help to look at a stock 2J with a fuctioning seq system. Do you know which vavle they were playing with? There are 2 valves, one in the exhaust and one after the compressor of the no2 turbo. I did manualy depress the exhaust one a few times first. But I didn't do anything with the compressor valve (until I wired it open). It sounded like the exhuast valve was not opening. You should be able to hear it as it gets twice as loud when it opens.

Norbie
12-02-06, 11:46 AM
The valve in question was the EGCV, ie the one in the dump pipe which shuts off exhaust flow after turbo #2. As mentioned it was very stiff compared to the one in my car, so there's a good chance that was the problem.

The sequential system is notoriously troublesome on older 2JZ's, and they're a real bastard to diagnose when it plays up. The fact that you've pulled yours to pieces and re-assembled it from memory certainly doesn't help things! If you want to have a sticky-beak at my working sequential system you're welcome to do so.

Your other option is to convert to true-twin mode. As you found out it makes the car a shitload louder and obviously you don't get the crazy low-rpm torque any more, but the boost comes online in a much more linear and predictable manner which some people prefer. In fact the only reason I'm not running in true-twin mode any more is because I got sick of the noise!

Prediction for my forthcoming external wastegate mod: stupidly loud. :(

2JZR31
12-02-06, 11:56 AM
Cheers Norbie, JZK25 was kind enough to give me basically the whole sequential system from his 2JZ, minus a few parts which ar probably just hiding in the shed somewhere. So I should have enough shit as spares. I am keen to get it working correctly otherwise it would have been a waste of time boring out my wastegate when I could have just used 2 no1 turbine houseings and had a much better system than what I have now for running TTC. I don't really want my car to be too loud either. And my car is auto so it will be slow as of the mark with TTC. Its not on my urgent list ATM. I will probably leave it untill the car is complete then come around to check yours out. Just got the exhaust and speedo to do now :)

2JZR31
22-02-06, 01:32 PM
I found the VSV that opperates the butterfly valve for the second turbos air flow is rooted. I have a spare thanks to JZK25. Hopefully that is the only prob with the sequential system.

Zac
22-02-06, 07:05 PM
Got any recent pictures Dennis?

2JZR31
22-02-06, 07:32 PM
I wanted to take some pics with all the cooler pipes polished and basically finished engine bay, however that prob with the dodgy turbo has meant its all pulled apart again.

I hope to get some updated pics soon.

2JZR31
15-03-06, 08:55 AM
Here are some pics of the FMIC and SS blumbing we made. (sorry for the shit quality of pics)

fatgts
15-03-06, 08:57 AM
picsofburnout

2JZR31
15-03-06, 09:10 AM
Patience :D Pics of burnout will come.

Here are some more non burnout pics. This is shitting me I am getting a new cammera.

Dansedgli
15-03-06, 09:13 AM
That looks sweet. I bet you cant wait to be done!

QABB
15-03-06, 09:55 AM
Nice! That is really something to be proud of, well done!

2JZR31
15-03-06, 10:00 AM
Thanks. Yeah I can't wait. Lucky tests runs are not too difficult because I have another white R31 that is registered ;) Its wheelspintacular. :D

This was the hardest and most painful thing to make on the conversion. Its the part that bolts to the "exhaust gas control valve". The EGCV is like a twin throttle body but only one throat has a butterfly. It blocks exhaust flow to the No2 turbo for sequential operation. The stock item is very restrictive, as you can see it has a 2 X 2.25 openings on top and one 2.25 on the bottom. But more importantly it exits directly in front of the steering shaft. The one I made has a 3" hole at the bottom, and it sweeps directly toward the engine block, to clear the steering. It looks a bit rough but the internal flow passage has a very smooth flow path. It was a PITA to find the right sweep to clear the steering and still allow the attachment of the rest of the dump pipe which immediately does a right angle and heads under the sump which I modded to allow this (pics in next post).

Its made from some flanges which I bought and made, a 3" donut, a 2 x 2.5 to 3" collector and the side of a 2.5" 45 degree mandrel.

Please excuse the dodgy welds. I made all this on that MIG I just bought and have never used one before this.

AlexinPerth
15-03-06, 10:33 AM
Nice work :)

It's pretty rewarding to fabricate stuff like this.

Alex.

2JZR31
15-03-06, 10:33 AM
Here's the whole exhaust I made it up using 80mm truck exhaust I got for some beer. (thanks Al). Its my first go at making an exhaust. I call it the "Super Droner 2000". :D

Its all 80mm besides the sharp corner where it tucks under the sump. That is a 3" donut. I needed a flange at the Y dump because it only just fits in there from the bottom. Installing it and uninstalling reminds me of one of those annoying skill games where you have to unhook intertwined curved bits of metal or wood as its impossible unless you turn it at exactly the right angle the spin and move the right distance it etc.... I painted it with VHT 1500 degree paint. Warning stay a way from septone high temp paint from supercheap it is shithouse!!!

There is heaps of ground clearance. More than in my other R31 which has 2.5" exhaust made by an exhaust shop. I used a bit of heatsleaving which came with the truck exhaust as it gets close to the steering rack and the reason didn't paint the Y dump is because I will have it ceramic coated. I want it as cool as possible as it comes within 10mm of the steering shaft.

Also the crossover pipe is solidly bolted to the bellhousing to take any strain of the turbos (exhaust weight and bottoming out etc) The turbos are NOT meant to be used as an exhaust hanger. I had to remove some of the turbo bracing so I think this is necessary for strength. People say what about vibration? Well I say the engine is the sorce of the vibration anyway so it can't really contribute to more vibrations.

Dansedgli
15-03-06, 10:43 AM
Wow! Thats great!

Makes me want to have a go with the torry.

R.eks4
15-03-06, 12:59 PM
wow looks great man, your welds are far superior to some of the work that comes out of some exhaust shops so don't be disappointed. this is shaping up to be quite the weapon....... when will i see you out caining commodores/wrx's etc on anzac next? ;) :D

JZK25
15-03-06, 05:24 PM
Very nice work Dennis. Impressive engine bay and the exhaust looks very tidy. Gotta love the truck pipe for value for money.

2JZR31
15-03-06, 11:05 PM
Cheers guys :)

I just done a quick tidy up of the engine bay for the pics. Its not finished yet, its still a bit messy. I have to do something with all the hoses toward the firewall. All the hoses come from the wrong side and have to cross over at the back. I also want to section of the air filter from the hot engine bay air. Yep that truck exhaust is great. Is it also a bit thicker wall than normal 3" pipe?

JZK25
16-03-06, 06:04 PM
I don't think it is thicker wall but it is certainly a lot better quality than alluminised exhaust tube. It's made to do a million km on a truck so is of apropriate quality. Price is right too.

2JZR31
19-03-06, 06:55 PM
I had to cut the bonnet latch support bracket to fit the 100mm cooler in so I got this 6mm plate welded on. The top sheet of cooler Aluminium is 3mm thick. Some people told me it won't be strong enough but I stood on the cooler while it was inplace and its pretty damn strong. Plus I already went for a drive with no bracket at all on the cooler and the radiator support pannel seemed to be able to hold it all by itself.

Also you can see the transmission cooler with the blue hose going to it. Note I had to cut some bracing away where you see the hose pass the chassis rail. I also cut a hole in the bumper in that area with a hole saw and I will have to take to hose off, install the bumper and feed the hose through the hole in the bumper to get the bumper back on. So I will have to take the hose off when ever I take off the bumper. Which should not be very often I hope. The mounting points and hose runs were so much easier this way. :D

Guido
20-03-06, 05:32 PM
Looking very nice!!

RB30-POWER
20-03-06, 05:58 PM
when do we get to see vids of this thing ripping a skid?

coming along nicely by the way.

always good to get near this end of these types of conversions....

Rollin
27-03-06, 10:51 PM
your engine bay looks great! like the engine was meant to be there, which is probably testament to how much hard work and effort you put in fitting it!

the exhaust looks the goods as well, exhaust shops leave a lot to be desired IMHO.

i got my car done 'professionally' and ended up with about 60mm of ground clearance under the drivers seat, due to a combination of the cat being on an angle, and a flange being welded in behind it - as you would expect, it used to hit on EVERYTHING including the road when i was driving through intersections!

it took me a whole day to cut and shut it enough that i was happy with it, and so far, after about 1000km, it hasnt hit anything :D i dont even have to go over speed bumps on an angle any more.

would love to have a good look at your car in the metal when it is finished, so i can plagarise some ideas ;)

PS thanks for the pointer re: john kean :)

R.eks4
28-03-06, 05:33 PM
your engine bay looks great! like the engine was meant to be there, which is probably testament to how much hard work and effort you put in fitting it!


my words exactly when i saw it over the weekend. despite the fact that it's suffering from a few teething probs with the auto and boost-cut (?? i believe that was it dennis??) there is definately a lot of balls lurking beneath the bonnet.

2JZR31
29-03-06, 12:34 AM
Thanks guys. :) Yes, I think that despite boreing the wastegate out to 160% of its original size, it still hits the boost cut. This tells me that the boost control probs are more related to there only being one wastegate situated in one turbo rather than just the size. I had worried about this as the flow path for the waste gas to exit the no2 turbo are shit house as they have to follow a torcherous path through to the No1 turbos wastegate. So the No2 turbos exhaust housing probably an easier path hence the wastegate on the No1 turbo doesn't help it much. I hope that boost stablizes at one or two PSI above it so I still don't need a exhaust restrictor. And there is still the prob of one missing speed signal into the ECU.

Damo, you car looks pretty awesome and seems to go quite well, I look forward to giving you a bit of a run when mines running right for a piston VS rotor showdown :D

2JZR31
06-04-06, 11:16 PM
The car still hits the boost cut even with my wastegate mods. Here is a look at the difference in size of my wastegate. It took me all day to pull this turbo off!

2JZR31
06-04-06, 11:19 PM
My theory is the actuator is shithouse and is not opening up enough. So I am going to fit another one which will open the valve all the way up by 15psi, as opposed to half way open at 22psi.

These are pics of the gate at 14-16-18-20-22psi.

Norbie
07-04-06, 10:44 AM
For all this stuffing around don't you think it might be better to give up on the crappy stock setup and install an external wastegate?

2JZR31
07-04-06, 10:57 AM
Probably. But a I'm a subborn fuck :) Plus I have already done half the work and the external gate would be a lot more stuffing around. And you havn't done the R&D for me yet :p I only took the front turbo off, I think takeing the back one off would have been much harder, but when I do that I will piss the EGCV and all the crap dumps off and make some better ones. All thats a lot harder than just changing the actuator.

2JZR31
29-04-06, 04:56 PM
Got the wastegate to work. The max boost will go is about 15-17psi, which is fine since thats what I want to run. I fucked around for ages and made some variations to the angle of the actuator arm so the valve opened much further at the same boost level.

AND I dynoed it and it made 323.4 rwhp (241rwkw) at 15-16 psi in hot weather. AFR at 11 in the top end.

2JZR31
29-04-06, 05:00 PM
Here is my variable arm. The outer most hole causes the actuator rod to swing through an arc which opens the valve much more with the same actuator rod movement.

JZK25
29-04-06, 05:17 PM
Nice work Dennis. That's some decent power. Must be time for another piss up to celebrate. :D

2JZR31
29-04-06, 06:37 PM
Nice work Dennis. That's some decent power. Must be time for another piss up to celebrate. :D

Any reason for a piss up :D We should get the barbie out this time :) Its still not registered though, but my speedo works now so all I have to do is hook up the charcoal canister then get it inspected. Should be done within a week or so I hope. For the center bearing I made 2 solid square blocks of metal and painted them black to replace those dodgy washers. I hope he doesn't look too close. :w:

R.eks4
31-05-06, 09:30 PM
suckered any more victims into friendly roll-ons recently?....i refer to one laughter inducing tale that i was regaled with at the pub a few weeks ago ;) 300rwhp+ is bloody impressive too!

2JZR31
01-06-06, 12:41 AM
Na, not since then. I have been trying avoid driving it since its not even registered. I got an engineers inspection and passed everything besides a neutral switch problem (fixed now), and I failed a brake test. I purchased some HR31 GTSx struts, which turned out to be SHIT passage non turbo ones (almost exactly the same as stock, and just as useless for a brake upgrade) So I am looking for some real ones. When I get them the car will be 100% legit, and I can terrorize ricers and knuckle draggers with reduced fear of getting reamed by the cops. :D

You wouldn't believe it but SACK rang me up and asked me if I beat his mates in a V8 kingswood. His mates desribed it as my car. I met Sack again at the pub and told him about my car ages ago, he says the kingswood runs 12.4 :) Cool....



With the cooling weather my extensive wastegate mods are still allowing overboost up to 19.5psi damn it. Makes for sweet wheelspin at 100km/h though :D

Dansedgli
01-06-06, 07:47 AM
Sounds like its going well. Thats a pretty good result on the dyno too. I wasnt expecting it to make that much. Its pretty standard isnt it?

2JZR31
01-06-06, 11:41 AM
Yeah its just got usual mods like FMIC and 3" exhaust. Stock ECU etc... everything I have done is in the thread somehwere. There are no secret mods or anything. I was expecting around this figure which is why I chose the 2JZ as I knew it would get power for 11's stock. Now I have the power I need to find traction off the line to get a good time.

R.eks4
01-06-06, 06:30 PM
sack's mates = :owned: lol, doesn't that just make it so much sweeter. sucks on the brakes though, mine is copping s6 4spots and 330mm discs so i should at least be able to out stop you even if you will flog my arse in a race!:rotflol:

2JZR31
02-06-06, 02:32 PM
sack's mates = lol, doesn't that just make it so much sweeter. sucks on the brakes though, mine is copping s6 4spots and 330mm discs so i should at least be able to out stop you even if you will flog my arse in a race!

I don't know if I will be able to beat you. Your car goes pretty hard. I couldnt' help but notice you were only revving it 5500 when I was in it, and even that felt fast. But holy shit, that is some serious overkill on your brakes. That is circuit car spec in a car that is as light as yours. I'm getting 280mm with 4 spot 200sx calliper as that is the biggest which will fit under my 15's. Should be good enough for what I want anway.

slip
05-06-06, 06:25 PM
Awesome work 2J.

A 31off might be interesting...

2JZR31
05-06-06, 07:42 PM
I'm in :) I still haven't fitted that diff I got of you ages ago. Gotta do that soon.

2JZR31
16-06-06, 01:45 PM
suckered any more victims into friendly roll-ons recently?

Yep. A worked white Malloo ute with advertisment all over it. Anyway he heard my fuel pump and thought it must have been an RB20 then he noticed it sounded like a JZ so we had a roll on from about 70-200 on a private road. And I steadily pulled away from him the whole way. He complained about gearbox troubles, but then again I forgot to put it into power mode and I hit limp home mode (minus 30rwhp) We raced again but my car broke into violet wheel spin at 100 and I shit myself and backed off. We pulled over and had a chat. He said it had well over 400rwhp 4500rpm stall built LS1 and has run a best of 11.0. Seemed like a good bloke and pretty switched on. He guessed I had JZ and 330rwhp. The guy ownes a performacne shop and works on LS1's and fords etc. :)

Sweet :D

2JZR31
17-06-06, 02:02 PM
Whoo hooo! Its legal. The engineer passed it and gave me a roadworthy.

Mod plate reads.

Code LA1 LA3 LG2 LB1

An original RB30 motor has been removed from vehical and a twin turbo 3000cc engine 2JZ Toyota engine number xxxxxx has been fitted to the original mounting factory points and an orignal nissan gearbox has been removed and a toyota turbo gearbox 3040E serial xxxx 4 speed auto fitted, and upgraded braking system from of front discs and callipers to suit turbo engine and gearbox, brakes from HR31 GTSX. Brake motor test on decelerometer no xxxxx brake 80% hand brake 30%.

What do the individual codes stand for? I know they are, engine, turbo, brakes and gearbox.

tandy ass
21-06-06, 10:28 AM
Congrats!!!!!!

picsofskidzatmaccasorban

2JZR31
21-06-06, 10:51 AM
Not registered yet. With anyluck it will be tomorrow. I don't even go to maccas to eat ;) How do people feel about one wheel burnout videos? :(

GSRman
21-06-06, 04:00 PM
:) i am no longer king of the single leggers :)

2JZR31
21-06-06, 04:01 PM
Sweet. What diff did you end up using?

jizmstr0
21-06-06, 04:02 PM
SOO 3, July 5, Willowbank T&T, be there :D

(tape the game :P)

GSRman
21-06-06, 04:05 PM
got the stocker rebuilt with a locrite centre.. its hella agricultural, but hooks up like a bastard :) its now ready for more boost :)

GSRman
21-06-06, 04:06 PM
im still surprised you are having boost issues :)

tandy ass
21-06-06, 05:00 PM
got the stocker rebuilt with a locrite centre.. its hella agricultural, but hooks up like a bastard :) its now ready for more boost :)


im still surprised you are having boost issues :)

split personality?

GSRman
21-06-06, 05:08 PM
yep, there's a crowd of them in here..

his 2j, can't keep boost below 17psi.. my 1j is down to 7.5psi now..

2JZR31
22-06-06, 01:36 PM
I might see you there to do some 200 meter long one wheel burnouts down the quarter mile :) But with any luck I will have my spare drag wheels ready and at least they will have some better tires. I got 4 advan circuit tires to suit my TI wheels for $25 each. (I had 6 TI wheels so the car would not have obvious "burnout" or "drag" tires when I fit them up, but I found a crack in one so now I need a passenger side TI wheel) These are not "drag" tires, but my mates Cobra lifted the front wheels of the ground at willowbank with them fitted so they must hook up OK.

Anyhow, the car is finaly registered. Here are some pics of the beast. Complete with towbar, stealth exhaust tip and intercooler :D

Mr Ed
22-06-06, 02:01 PM
Holy shit, take about sleeper status! :lol: Wheres the fluffy dice??

If I pulled up next to that thing Id expect to beat it in the damn Astra!!! :eek:

floody
22-06-06, 02:12 PM
Anyhow, the car is finaly registered. Here are some pics of the beast.

Ahahaha, thats awesome! Love your work.

InsaneAsylum
22-06-06, 02:12 PM
that is awesome.... R.S.L/bowls club spec

2JZR31
22-06-06, 02:39 PM
Cheers guys :)

You wouldn't believe it, but I have been noticed a few times now buy other enthusiasts. The exhaust note and fuel pump give it away to someone that knows their shit.

GSRman
22-06-06, 03:03 PM
thats nicely stealthy :)

Dansedgli
22-06-06, 03:09 PM
Nice one!!!

Thats a sweet looking sleeper.

2JZR31
22-06-06, 03:13 PM
Thanks :) Have you decided what car you are going to use for your 10 second sleeper yet?

Dansedgli
22-06-06, 03:18 PM
I think Im going to stick it out with the torana. No-one seems interested in buying it and isnt far off running now. Just got to wire up the fuel pumps, thermofans and cas wiring and its all set to go. Then bodywork of course.

It wont be very sleepy though I dont think. Any LC/LJ torana with new paint is going to stick out in my area. Ive only seen 2 in the last 6 months. 1 of those was at the drags.

2JZR31
22-06-06, 03:43 PM
I always thought you would be best off just finishing the Torana. But yeah, it won't be a sleeper. It will be at the other extreme. Megga attention grabber, which is also a good thing. Its inbetween that sucks :)

Dansedgli
22-06-06, 03:49 PM
True but I dont like mega attention grabbers. My last car was one. It was nice but I hate cleaning cars and driving something that looks fast. Ill get a 202 orientated number plate so sick cunts in their imports race me and think they are cool until they lose.

I want to tub it and fit 275 rear tyres on for the drags, it will look nuts. 235's on the same rims with less width for the road.

Im having a big working session on it this weekend to see if I can get it cranking over. Its still going to take ages to do all properly but once its moving it should be a bit of fun.

2JZR31
22-06-06, 03:54 PM
Ill get a 202 orientated number plate so sick cunts in their imports race me and think they are cool until they lose.

Bwaaahahahah!!!111 Thats what I am in it for :D

Better update your thread with new pics of the weekend work :)

fatgts
22-06-06, 04:23 PM
nice work

love the look

R.eks4
22-06-06, 08:36 PM
mint! the rims came up nicely too. no doubt you'll be racking a few k's up now that it is road legal.

McVLt
23-06-06, 07:30 PM
fuck yeah.... i just rubbed my cock on the monitor!!

I cant believe you already got to test it out... last time i did that i had a dude hanging out of a Honda Jazz waving a badge at me yelling out "Stop driving like a fuckwit or i'll book ya"

2JZR31
23-06-06, 08:40 PM
Fuck me. A JAZZ!!!111??

My mate drove it pretty um "fast" on the highway when I had been drinking the other day (I was a passenger) Some cops in a unmarked car saw him and we got pulled over. The cops went off about its physco driving and let us go with no fine. They didn't even check the car out at all!! It looks like its invisabe to cops... so far :D But I know its only a matter of time before I get fucked over (and probably deservedly so). :D In the mean time I'm just going to have a bit of fun. After all, thats the whole point of modified cars.

stockymcstock
23-06-06, 10:00 PM
god damn after seeing that i'm so tempted to put my whole driveline into an R31 or even better, a pintara! best sleeper evar. i thought mine was good but that just takes the cake. top notch effort!

2JZR31
23-06-06, 11:14 PM
Cheers :) What have you got Stocky? Got a thread on it?

stockymcstock
24-06-06, 12:43 PM
just a dunger VL:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/stanaz01/SV100188.jpg

with this in it:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/stanaz01/SV100192.jpg

i still reckon yours is better though, your hubcaps are more grandpa than mine.

2JZR31
24-06-06, 06:49 PM
Nice, the best RB is a RB30DET :) Capacitly FTW. How much power does it have, and have you taken it to the drags? Its still an awesome sleeper though. It would be hard to pick it besides the not very well hidden FMIC :p

stockymcstock
03-07-06, 06:04 PM
hey - i'm with you 100% there. it shits all over the SOHC off-boost, and on boost it just never stops revving.

i'm running a powerFC base map at the moment with standard injectors and a Q45 AFM, it hits 100% duty cycle at 5000rpm but doesn't ping, even right up till redline. it must be running super rich across the top end i reckon. no idea on power output, waiting for the next stage (Eaton M90 blower) to be installed before i upgrade the injectors and get it tuned.

yeah i need to get the cooler hidden better somehow, i was thinking of painting it black on the front but not sure on how well that will work to achieve the goal. ideally i'd get two or three rows taken off the top so it sits behind the bar neater but then i'd have to change the piping, meh.

i propose a grandpa-spec dunger race when both these cars are finished and tuned. oh shit that's right mine's manual :(

psi999
03-07-06, 06:22 PM
My god your car is fantastic 2JZR31, thats pretty much exactly what i want my ET pulsar to look like haha.

On another note i've just bought myself a R31 GTS-X, GTR brakes/wheels, VG30DET / Z32 box, ECU everything but a GT3540 and 550/660cc injectors ;).... cant wait to pick it up.

2JZR31
04-07-06, 12:34 AM
Stockymcmock. You are nuts! Fitting a blower on there too. I love it. I think you will flog me I only have stock turbos, but its on. :D

PSI999, Nice start a thread with some pics :) If the VG blows up you will know what to do :D :p

stockymcstock
04-07-06, 06:34 PM
hey i just got my blower back from the machinist, now it will fit! one of the photos shows how much we managed to cut off the drive snout. now i need mounts and a drive system. anyone know a lathe operator in brisbane who will do me up a pulley from a chunk of billet for cheap?

2JZR31
04-07-06, 11:57 PM
Are you going to run the turbo and SC in series or will there be a fandangled changer over system where only the turbo works at high RPM?

stockymcstock
05-07-06, 05:17 PM
fandangled switchy things are hard to set up, and then you don't get the full benefit of the twincharge by having extremely low back pressure. i mean, it'd be low, but not that low. when the turbo only has to make half the total boost (airflow remaining the same though) it needs a lot less shaft speed, hence less back pressure.

i'm using a simple bypass around the blower and the turbo outlet goes straight into the blower inlet. it'll be running by the end of the year i hope.

floody
05-07-06, 11:36 PM
On another note i've just bought myself a R31 GTS-X, GTR brakes/wheels, VG30DET / Z32 box, ECU everything but a GT3540 and 550/660cc injectors ;).... cant wait to pick it up.

Awesome! Put some GT-R rims on the front and some decent suspension it will rock.
Try and keep it longer than the last guy!

Mr Ed
06-07-06, 01:03 PM
hey i just got my blower back from the machinist, now it will fit! one of the photos shows how much we managed to cut off the drive snout. now i need mounts and a drive system. anyone know a lathe operator in brisbane who will do me up a pulley from a chunk of billet for cheap?
Brad from Boosted Xtremes did a bit of stuff for me for very good prices. Top bloke too, Im sure hed be keen to hear about the crazy job youre doing here. :D

Give him a call if youre interested: 0421 228 772
(Hes based at the Gap)

stockymcstock
06-07-06, 06:40 PM
cheers man i will definately give him a try. need a few toothed pulleys centred and welded to other pulleys and a billet 8pk drive pulley attached to one of them also. tricky job but shouldn't be too hard for a decent lathe man.

McVLt
07-07-06, 07:25 PM
My god your car is fantastic 2JZR31, thats pretty much exactly what i want my ET pulsar to look like haha.

On another note i've just bought myself a R31 GTS-X, GTR brakes/wheels, VG30DET / Z32 box, ECU everything but a GT3540 and 550/660cc injectors ;).... cant wait to pick it up.

Bah why couldnt you buy my car!!

Is this the one the guy wanted $12k for it? how much did you pick it up for?

Ive struggled to get someone to pay me $14k for a proven 400+hp car, yet ive now seen a few stocko HR31's go for $10k or so! :knock:

psi999
08-07-06, 02:55 AM
10k with a rwc, engineering and rego paid till next year (and aircond fixed)..... so more like 9k :) pretty happy with my buy considering the quality mods & perfect interior/exterior (and also has a pretty decent stereo).

http://performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67204562

Just needs GT3540 & injectors and should go alright!

2JZR31
08-07-06, 01:38 PM
Nice car man.

psi999
08-07-06, 01:55 PM
Thanks mate, not quite the sleeper i would like but still far from sik carnt :)

Floody - thats the plan, but got a bit of work to do to the ET 1st.

2JZR31
09-07-06, 02:19 AM
Thanks mate, not quite the sleeper i would like but still far from sik carnt

Want to do a chassis swap then? :D

ALLMTR
29-07-06, 01:31 AM
How much does the finished car weigh?

2JZR31
29-07-06, 06:17 PM
1380 kg with towbar and 1/3 tank of fuel.

ALLMTR
04-08-06, 12:14 AM
Absolutely love it but I am a bit partial to sleepers

Keeps 5-0 off your tail

2JZR31
04-08-06, 12:24 AM
Thanks :) It really does look like shit in the flesh too. I have since lowered it for better handling. It doesn't look fully sik low. Well it did, but then I raised it up a bit again. The front it still about where it was sitting in the pics (had sagged springs) but the back is a lot lower. I installed lowered springs and koni red adjustable shocks. One day I will wash it and take some better pics :)

ALLMTR
04-08-06, 12:33 AM
and start powering it up......


*cough* 450rwhp *cough*

2JZR31
09-08-06, 10:40 PM
and start powering it up......


*cough* 450rwhp *cough*

According to this http://www.speedworldmotorplex.com/calc.htm I already have 459hp at the flywheel (with my check engine light comming on at 2/3 track which looses 30rwhp). 450 at the rear would be nice, KW that is ;) ....look out bank account!

I am a happy :) ET around what I wanted and the MPH was better than I expected. Note these times and speeds were achieved with my check engine light coming on at about 2/3 of the track. (30rwhp loss) I'm sure without the limp mode a couple more MPH would be possible. There is an 11 in this with my planned mods I think. 4.11 gears, shift kit, fix CEL prob and more practice. :) If that does not do it a 3200 stall will shit it in. My 60 foot times are shit. No wheel spin at all with those Advan tires. Just need better gearing and/or stall.

12.55 @ 115, 2.001 60ft
12.66 @ 115, 2.132 60ft
12.67 @ 113, 2.028 60ft
12.72 @ 113, 2.066 60ft

http://www.angusphotos.net/forum/T060809A-5764.jpg

http://www.angusphotos.net/forum/T060809A-5693.jpg

Dansedgli
09-08-06, 10:46 PM
Thats is awesome work!!! Nice and quick!!

jizmstr0
10-08-06, 09:45 AM
Awesome times!

2.001 60ft is bad? My BEST was 2.540! :rotflol:

Nice MPH as well!

Norbie
10-08-06, 11:26 AM
I agree, a 2.0 60ft is pretty damn good on street tyres.

For comparison, my first (and only) run down the strip was 12.49 @ 117mph with a 2.1 60ft. That's with a manual transmission and a lighter car (approx 1300kg) so you've done very well to get those times.

Mr Ed
10-08-06, 01:49 PM
I agree, a 2.0 60ft is pretty damn good on street tyres.

For comparison, my first (and only) run down the strip was 12.49 @ 117mph with a 2.1 60ft. That's with a manual transmission and a lighter car (approx 1300kg) so you've done very well to get those times.
That 12.49 was with a bit of gearbox babying too wasnt it?

Both had slight problems to achieve an almost equal time.....A Norbie vs Dennis race is sounded more and more interesting by the minute.:yup: :yup:

747
10-08-06, 04:46 PM
just change the stall

i would have bought drag radials myself, but advans are ok


with a stall, it should 1.8 sixty foot, theres a 12.1 you should have about a 3.9.1 diff ratio that is ideal for your engine and gearbox in that weight car.


pull som wieght out of it and you will have your 11

R.eks4
10-08-06, 05:35 PM
sorry i missed it, gerald left while i was still at work. still putting mega $$ "sports" cars to shame on a daily basis?

2JZR31
10-08-06, 06:51 PM
Those Advans cost $25 and refused to get any wheel spin at all. The car they came off done wheelstanding 1.6sec 60 footers (12.1 @ 111) so its not them that are holding me back yet.

That's a great ET and MPH you got Norbie. My first run was 12.6 at 115. I think it will go at least 117 without limp mode and shorter gears. There were heaps of cars doing 11's with quite slower mph and there were much slower Nissans and V8s beating or equaling me of the mark. I would fly past them though. :D But this tells me my 60 foot is shit compared to what it could be.

GSRman
11-08-06, 08:06 AM
:) i think i'd be lucky to 60' in sub 3 :)

Norbie
11-08-06, 12:35 PM
That 12.49 was with a bit of gearbox babying too wasnt it?
That was done before any gearbox breakages, so I wasn't being gentle at all (at that time I believed, as everyone else did, that W58's were pretty much indestructible). But I did have a slipping clutch, a nearly non-functional original LSD, and utterly rooted suspension which led to major axle tramp. I have a video of that run, the car bouncing all over the place is pretty funny to watch! :lol:

Both had slight problems to achieve an almost equal time.....A Norbie vs Dennis race is sounded more and more interesting by the minute.:yup: :yup:
I agree, it would be very interesting! Now that I have proper suspension, a good LSD and much better tyres I think I could improve on my previous best by a fair amount - but of course there's only one way to find out. :) This will have to wait until the 6-speed project is finished though, so don't hold your breath or anything.

2JZR31
11-08-06, 02:13 PM
Post the vid Norbie! I reckon you would beat me as it is (considering you only run was better than my best and you have since made you car even better), but it would be a cool race anyway :D With my aforementioned mods which I hope to do soon I think I will be down to low 12's high 11's, which is probably where you at right now. THAT would be a sweet race. :)

Mr Ed
11-08-06, 03:11 PM
Can I race too??? Except to make it fair how bout you 2 leave your cars broken and I run mine after I fixed all these issues. ;)

GSRman
11-08-06, 03:24 PM
sir_2j: its okay, i'll race you and then the winnars can race :)

BigMuz
11-08-06, 03:24 PM
http://www.lextreme.com/misc.html

I'm sure you know about them Dennis, but there are a couple of really good pdfs on that page which show all the wiring for 2j - I thought it was christmas until I noticed the 2 :sad:

2JZR31
11-08-06, 03:31 PM
Cheers Muz, I'll check it out :)

jizmstr0
11-08-06, 04:38 PM
I am racing on Wed 30 August if anyone wants tom come down.

I only have a slow 1j but looking to improve a bit on last times piss poor effort.

Mr DOHC with the jzx83 will be coming also

Maybe make it a jz drag day :)

2JZR31
11-08-06, 05:03 PM
I'm only going again once I fix my probs and get a new diff. But I want to do it all ASAP. I just found out I have 16mm toe in and positive camber on my diff. Its LIVE REAR AXLE. :knock: :wtf: So even more reason to get those shorter gears. :D

ED looks like it wasnt just an optical illusion. Its fucked.

Mr Ed
11-08-06, 05:21 PM
Hmm Id be up for it if the cars street ready by then. JZ race day would be very nice. :)

BigMuz
11-08-06, 05:22 PM
Damn! How? Bent housing?

2JZR31
11-08-06, 05:28 PM
Must be bent. Cant see any other way that it could happen. I purchased the diff from someone of the forum who said the car it came from was in a smash, but he assured me it was not bent. This diff is a total POS bent, noisy as all fuck etc. Its only been in the car a month or so, but I purchases it ages ago so I cant really complain now. Hopefully I will at least be able to salvage the LSD mech and fit it to a 4.11 pintara diff with my 28 spline axles.

If quite a few guys from the forums head down Wed 30, I might come to spectate anyway if I haven't fixed my probs by then.

Mr Ed
11-08-06, 09:05 PM
Was this that weird noise we heard on the week end???

2JZR31
11-08-06, 09:16 PM
Was this that weird noise we heard on the week end???

Did we hear a noise? Cant remember. I think its the diff fucked? Well I hope since I will be replacing it. I have a spare tranny though too.

BigMuz
12-08-06, 09:13 AM
You might have bent it from sticky tyres and good traction. Have a look and see if there is any cracked paint around the brackets on the diff.

People underestimate how much load you can put on the rear end even with a stock converter. Maybe you should get a fabricated diff housing like someone posted here last week :D

jzx83
12-08-06, 10:49 PM
Hey Dennis, good to see you've had a go at the drag strip. I'd love to have a go, but sadly the car is just one of many calls on the wallet at the moment.

Will have to juggle the budget and get down to Willowbank one of these weekday test and tunes. Could be ace. Don't hold your breath though. I'm shelling out a whole weeks wages each Month on fuel. Bloody hell I love being a farmer. Or 'I work selling hardware to feed my primary production habit' :(
Whatever, congrats on your first go in the new car.

2JZR31
13-08-06, 01:40 AM
Thanks Richard. Hopefully you get down there on of these days.

Muz, someone mentioned it looked like it had positive camber before I fitted the sticky tires and went to the drags. So it must have already been like that.

BigMuz
13-08-06, 02:10 PM
Yeah I said that after I followed you down the road!

I've got an eye for bent shit. :D

GSRman
13-08-06, 02:25 PM
ive seen a hell of a lot of cars crabwalking lately

2JZR31
13-08-06, 04:04 PM
Yeah I said that after I followed you down the road!

I've got an eye for bent shit. :D

Well you were spot on. I thought, na that unpossible :knock:

That little bit of curry I gave it with the shit tires surly couldn't bend a housing could it??

BigMuz
13-08-06, 04:40 PM
Nah no way. Accident damage for shizzle.

ALLMTR
13-08-06, 05:03 PM
Nah acco damage for sure. Need better than 2.0 60' to bend diffs

2JZR31
14-08-06, 01:25 AM
For sure I reckon. Oh well time for those 4.11's :D

2JZR31
29-08-06, 12:46 PM
The car used to get hot. This is why I reckon.

Clutch fan > Stock type shrouded thermos > Craig Davies style straight on rad.

I got a new radiator which helped a bit but it would have been fine if I found these right away. I looked around wreckers and couldn't find anything that would fit so I got the shitty Craig Davies style fans. And low and behold, Al just happened to have EXACTLY what I needed laying around his shed (I still owe you beer for that :D )

All I needed to do was chop the tabs off which they had top and bottom and then I added a single bracket on each one. They clip under the bottom of the rad core between the end tanks and the core. This seems a bit dodgy but before I put them on I put an even layer of silicone over the contact areas and let it dry (on the fans not the rad) There is no way they are going to budge they are pretty much wedged in there.

Also I put some foam tape ether side to close the air gap so all the air must pass through the core and cant suck in from the sides. These fans have 2 sets of brushes (2 speed) and with one set going its keeps temp down great and is silent. Its louder with both sets going but moves heaps more air with only about 20% more current.

BigMuz
29-08-06, 03:42 PM
Nice work.

Why didn't you just buy that pwr rad from turbo351? :D

2JZR31
02-09-06, 11:47 PM
I fitted a 4.11 LSD to replace my rooted 3.7 and done some mods to my trans for faster shift times and headed out the drags. See here.
http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67206411
http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67206789

The car feels better with this ratio and the shifts are firmer, but not firm an fast enough. More shimming needs to be done.

Last time I went out I got 12.55 at 115mph with 2.0 60 footer (all PB's). To get these times I removed all the weight out of my car like spare and tools etc and had about half a tank of fuel, and also removed the headlight to get cold air to the filter. It was a coolish night and the car boosted up to 1.41 bar.

This time it wasn't so cool and I had a full tank plus I left all the tools and spare etc in the car and didn't remove the headlight. It boosted up to 1.36 bar. (boost goes up when its cold). I only got 3 less than perfect runs and didn't beat my PB's in MPH or ET. But I did beat the 60 foot PB, I got a 1.96 which resulted in 12.58 @ 113.5mph.

Another interesting run was when I took off with my parallel turbo switch enabled. (disables the sequential system) This gave a shit 2.31 60 footer, but to my amazement still got a 12.88 @ 114.5 mph which tells me that if I hooked up with the 1.96 on that run it would have probably gotten a pretty good ET.

jizmstr0
03-09-06, 09:36 PM
Interesting Dennis.

So with the same circumstances as the first time, you should be in for another PB. go to the 8mm shims or rods :)

Nice to meet you BTW.

ALLMTR
03-09-06, 09:48 PM
Well done. Yeah it suxor racing the car with different conditions/setups.

2JZR31
03-09-06, 10:17 PM
Good to meet you Chris. Not much time to chat when your racing though. I didn't even get to check out your car. I hope to take a good look next time. How did you go BTW?

Yeah, changing conditions makes it hard to gauge effectiveness of mods. But I'm sure the new setup is much better. I was hoping to beat my PB ET by around 0.2 and gain a MPH or 2, but it wasn't to be on the day. If conditions were the same I think I would have.

I can tolerate much harder shifts that what it has ATM but I just don't want chirps etc at commuting speeds. I thinks rods will be pretty violent. I might go for some 10mm shims. I will have another read of that big thread.

jizmstr0
07-09-06, 09:32 AM
I only had one full run. I was a bit scared as the microtech datalog came back with all sorts of crazy stuff. Vids are up on Toymods in general section :)

If you are coming to Jambo, I will be there racing so plenty of time to chat then :)

Here is your vid BTW, sorry about shakiness as my dad was filming most of it.

http://savefile.com/files/40407

BigMuz
07-09-06, 11:27 AM
That last pass was an 11 I reckon :D . You broke the beam as soon as you tried stalling it up. Couldn't see if the same happened on the other passes.

That explains your bad 60 foot times bud.

Better back brakes/ bigger converter ftw. BTW upping the line pressure will make it harder to hold on the start line as well...

Also, how dare you leave Holden's finest 5 litres in your dust with one of them imports? :D

2JZR31
04-12-06, 10:22 AM
I have a XR6 spec GT3540 to put on this now! The immediate aim is a dodgy high pressure fuel set up and, EBay manifold. I hope my $1000 ebay turbo is OK, it has some minor dints in a few of the turbine blades.

Dansedgli
04-12-06, 10:29 AM
Good Stuff!!

2JZR31
05-12-06, 12:23 PM
I had the turbo checked out by a mate who used to work for a turbo shop, and he says it should be fine. The minor damage on a few of the blades won't hurt performance. Now its time to do some E-baying for a manifold.

Tensop
05-12-06, 03:24 PM
What thermo fans are they? they fit the r31 perfectly :)

2JZR31
06-12-06, 12:31 AM
I think they are from a liberty, but I'm not certian. I had to mod them a bit but they are almost a perfect fit.

JZK25
06-12-06, 10:42 AM
Early WRX but Liberty fans are very similiar.
JZX83's Cressy has them also.

2JZR31
05-01-07, 06:24 PM
Here are some bad pics.

Took all the old shit off and trial fitted the turbo. The dump pipe will be a bit of bitch and the exhaust won't exactly be the best flowing with all the extra bends in it.

I'm glad this turbo has an internal gate because the pipes for the external gate end up facing directly at the steering shaft. I'm just going to bolt a plate over it.

This manifold is heaps better than the one I put on my mates Aristo IMO. The collectors looks like they would flow better and don't have dags all over them. It bolted straight up without die grinding the bolt holes. I still want to match port it a bit, even though its fairly good anyway. I still need to make an adaptor to mate the T4 split pulse flange to the T3 flange of the GT35. I'm thinking of a 20mm plate to smooth the transition. There is quite a bit of area to fill though.

Does anyone see anything wrong with the way the comp cover is outlet it facing? Its either that way or facing upward and toward the engine. The actuator limits the available positions.

PS can someone move this into the PF rides section. Cheers.

JZK25
05-01-07, 08:03 PM
Removing the twins opens things up a bit(a lot) doesn't it.

Comp outlet is fine like that, you just have to put it where it'll fit, end of story.

What are you doing with the dump?

BigMuz
05-01-07, 08:52 PM
Looks like Rz's engine bay.

Not really. Looks fuckin scary that's all I know mate :D

You cleaned the engine bay for the pics too didn't you :D

PS Moved for you bud.

2JZR31
06-01-07, 01:47 AM
I'm glad you noticed the spit and shine I gave it. The attention to detail is amazing.

2JZR31
06-01-07, 02:56 PM
I have to join the 2" outlet to a 3" pipe. I can re-use my old 3-2.5" joiner on the bottom. A 2" 90 degree elbow isn't going to hurt flow is it?

myliberty
06-01-07, 08:37 PM
flow shouldn't really matter with a turbo that small, 2" is overkill.

JZK25
06-01-07, 08:40 PM
No.
I would use a silicone 2" 90 off the turbo. Tighter radius and takes care of engine movement. They are about $60 from ARE(SFS brand).

2JZR31
06-01-07, 09:17 PM
flow shouldn't really matter with a turbo that small, 2" is overkill.

:huh: :rotflol:

R.eks4
07-01-07, 12:55 AM
progressing nicely i see:)

the bling manifold kind of goes against the grain though a bit;)

BigMuz
07-01-07, 08:19 AM
If you rotate the comp housing down till it is perpendicular to the entry into the cooler, does it interfere with the wastegate actuator?

If you could get it down far enough at least you only need one 90 in the whole system. Maybe relocate the wastegate actuator as well?

2JZR31
07-01-07, 08:26 AM
If you rotate the comp housing down till it is perpendicular to the entry into the cooler, does it interfere with the wastegate actuator?

If you could get it down far enough at least you only need one 90 in the whole system. Maybe relocate the wastegate actuator as well?

Yeah it will either hit the actuator or the manifold.


the bling manifold kind of goes against the grain though a bit

The $199 price tag doesn't. ;)

2JZR31
14-01-07, 10:46 PM
If you rotate the comp housing down till it is perpendicular to the entry into the cooler, does it interfere with the wastegate actuator?

If you could get it down far enough at least you only need one 90 in the whole system. Maybe relocate the wastegate actuator as well?

I made a cool little adaptor box for the turbo. It has a T4 flange at the bottom and a T3 flange at the top and a conical box to join them up. The result after 3 hours of fabrication and 2 hours of die grinding welds is a perfectly smooth internal transition from T4 to T3 flange sizes. Its also about 50mm tall which lifts the turbo up for awesomeness, plus it allowed just enough clearance so I could face the turbo outlet downwards without fouling the manifold while still being able to fit the actuator. Win Win.

ETA some time this week. Just need some oil lines made now and finishing touches.

BigMuz
14-01-07, 11:10 PM
Perfect. FWIW I put a turbo on an east west SR20 in a bluebird thingo a few years ago. All the turbos are intended for the NS engine layout and hit EVERYTHING on the EW. I milled a 25mm thick plate to the port shapes and boltholes, milled an angle on it to gain some space for the wastegate and used two gaskets. It only occurred to me after spending about a week scratching my head :D

You are extremely good at looking at things from out of the box. One of the benefits of being an elecco I guess :D

2JZR31
14-01-07, 11:37 PM
JZK25 came up with the box idea. I was just going to use a 1" thick piece of steel and blast a hole in it which tapered out. This took ages to make correctly but was worth the effort. I wish I took pics of it before I installed it as it doesn't look very bling in the engine bay, but the internal flow passage is pretty cool. I even used welds to fillet the corners so it would match up exactly to the curved corners of the flanges.

Some pics to come by the end of the week.

2JZR31
16-01-07, 11:42 AM
Pic of spacer and 3.5" dump.

ALLMTR
16-01-07, 03:22 PM
Nice work. So much neater with a big f*ck off turbo, huh?

2JZR31
16-01-07, 11:45 PM
There is sooo much more room to work in now. Its great. :)

Got the oil line made up today an Enzed for $100.

I had another little dodgy idea that I implemented. The stock actuator has a faggoty 4psi spring in it. This is so weak that it forces open and caused lag, plus makes boost very hard to control at higher levels. So I drilled a hole the actuator bracket and welded a small rod to the actuator rod at a 90 degree angle. I hooked a spring between the hole in the bracket and the rod, and now its a 12psi actuator that's adjustable depending on what spring you hook up to it. Stuff paying $170 for a new actuator!

Test drive tomorrow with any luck. :D

2JZR31
18-01-07, 12:14 PM
She's going! It's running 10psi in the blistering heat, and goes harder than the stock twins did at 18psi. And I still have the dinged up exhaust which is probably restricting it to less that 2.5 inches.

First prob is the dump pipe isn't sealed. I need to machine it flatter and get a proper gasket, and there is a LOT of underbonnet heat. I have the dump heat wrapped but I will need to so something with the turbine housing.

jizmstr0
18-01-07, 01:10 PM
Good work Dennis.

http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=17750

You know you want to :w:

2JZR31
18-01-07, 11:38 PM
I might be in on that. :)

The turbo boost spikes, and I haven't even got rid of my kinked exhaust. It goes to .95 bar near the redline. Seems to go well, but I am having trouble getting boost in the midrange with my boost controller. It's hard to tell how responsive it is without proper boost control.

GSRman
19-01-07, 05:57 AM
pull the wastegate line, go for a drive load it up, see what rpm it hits *say* 10psi, stick the line back on, do the same.. that will tell you if your comp-trollar is doing its fricken job.

2JZR31
19-01-07, 12:08 PM
Its a AVCR, seems to advanced for its own good, its either stuffed or I can't use it. I can get 1 bar by 3500rpm with the line disconnected. Which is awesome response IMO. That's only 500rpm more than the stock twins in parallel. Anyhow I made a thread about the controller.

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67212353

2JZR31
20-01-07, 11:42 AM
For all your fuel surge needs.

http://www.pedigree.com.au/products/images/natural_2.jpg

The 044 was mounted in the stock bracket, but it was a shit fight to get it in and required a big loop of hose which made it very difficult to fit and remove out of the tank, and I was worried about it kinking. So I got a hard line made up to replace the hose.

While I was there I cut up a dog food can and put some holes at the front so petrol could come in from the front, but not escape from the back under acceleration.

It used to surge with even 1/3 of a tank under acceleration. The stock baffle seems to be orientated to preventing surge under deceleration for some reason.

Anyhow, I was not experiencing any surge with a near empty tank and went to the servo and filled up 50 liters of fuel and its only a 55 liter tank so it worked.

BTW someone recommend me a new cheap camera please :p

R.eks4
20-01-07, 12:01 PM
rough as guts and dodgy as......i love it!:worship:

2JZR31
20-01-07, 12:10 PM
rough as guts and dodgy as......i love it!:worship:


Yep the idea and implementation may appear dodgy but it works well. IMO its far less dodgy than a boot mounted swirl pot which takes up space, stinks, is illegal and costs a shitload more than $2.99 :D So its a winner.

2JZR31
20-01-07, 06:51 PM
I got a pic. It needs a bit of a tidy up. I think I will get some hard lines made for the water and get some polishing done.

myliberty
20-01-07, 06:57 PM
do you have a dog, or did you buy the can and empty it's contents.

Can you do this mod with say, a beetroot can? or a SPC baked beans can?

RB30-POWER
20-01-07, 07:21 PM
Can you do this mod with say, a beetroot can? or a SPC baked beans can?

they would be better suited as an exhaust tip on your civic!

2JZR31
21-01-07, 12:33 PM
I live round the corner from a servo and the dog food can was the best size can for the job out of the limited can selection :w:

For subarus, I would recommend creamed rice. :D

2JZR31
24-01-07, 09:47 PM
I went and cut some personal lows tonight! Slowest with the twins was 12.8 @ 113mph. Best 12.5 @ 115.

Tonight was 13.6 & 108mph. Boost control is fucked, I was running 10psi the whole way besides the last 50 meters where it would spike to 1 bar and hit the boost cut. I really need to sort out the boost control.

Norbie
24-01-07, 11:05 PM
Weird, I thought your car felt faster than mine when I drove it. Maybe I've got used to driving slow cars now. :(

2JZR31
24-01-07, 11:37 PM
When it overboosts and hits near 1 bar in the higher gears (which is does sometimes when you floor it and it kicks back) it goes damn hard! It done that while you were driving it.

It has a huge pull at high RPM when the overboost situation occurs. Goes harder than it did (and probably harder than yours). But ONLY during that last bit rev range when it boosts up. Its heaps slower until that point, and heaps slower overall because of it.

At the drags it was only running 10-11 PSI, until the very last bit of 3rd gear right near the end of the track. But that little bit of extra pull for 2 seconds wasn't going to be enough to overcome the lack of power for the rest of the run.

Once I sort out the boost control issues and run the same 19 PSI my old setup was running we will see what happens. :)

BigMuz
25-01-07, 02:47 AM
Why does it hit the cut now with 14, but not before with 19?

jizmstr0
25-01-07, 08:17 AM
Bad luck Dennis: What stally do you have again? What were the 60ft's like? Can you get boost off the line?

Sounds like some issues to sort before you will realise its potential. (How long have I been saying that about my bloody car! :P)

fatgts
25-01-07, 08:27 AM
Yup internal gate

I said this on the vg30 tread

I had one on my rb26 (2.7 capacity)

and anything under 10psi she was fine

when you squeezed her up to 15spi... you had 15psi up to 6krpm then every setting on the control couldn’t keep the boost down it would always rise to 20psi at about 8.5k ( ive done allot of turbo stuff and these garret turbo internal gate one are the only ones that display this crazy thing)

anyway we have one on a rb30det now and the solution to this drama was to attached and external gate (holds boost perfect)

You’re lucky in the fact your merge pipe will be easy to tap into and it’s not cast like the factory Nissan manifold

GSRman
25-01-07, 08:58 AM
sounds like the internal gate can't flow enough

fatgts
25-01-07, 09:02 AM
sounds like the internal gate can't flow enough


yerp happens around the 300+ rwkw mark

2JZR31
25-01-07, 09:39 AM
Why does it hit the cut now with 14, but not before with 19?

I removed the FCD because I have an SAFC which is yet to be tuned. The SAFC will allow the boost cut to be raised and not eliminated by subtracting a percentage of the MAP sensor voltage, which is much safer than an FCD.


Bad luck Dennis: What stally do you have again? What were the 60ft's like? Can you get boost off the line?

Sounds like some issues to sort before you will realise its potential. (How long have I been saying that about my bloody car! :P)

Well yeah! I have issues and I will be addressing them ASAP. As in I will be ripping shit apart after I finish is post. I knew it would be shit and the only reason I even bothered goig was becuase a few other guys I knew talked me into it then didn't even turn up becuase it rained. But it has given me valuable info on how bad the current state of tune is. Done much on yours yet with stall speeds etc?

I have a stock stall and done 2.28 60 footers. Previously in sequential mode I done 2.0 second 60 footers (10 psi of the line), and in parallel mode still done 12.8 @ 115 with a 2.3 60 footer (0 psi of the line). So it seems to launch quicker with this turbo at low boost than the stock turbos in parallel at high boost, which says quite a bit for the response of this turbo. I think the manifold and turbo have given me extra low rpm power before boost actually comes on too.

This still makes no boost of the line at all with the stock 2000rpm stall. Boost starts coming on at just above 2000 though and will work great with a 2800 converter. Im not worried about my ET atm, just the serious lack in MPH. However I should still be able to smash 12.8 with a 2.3 second 60 foot time since I could 12.8 before with a 2.3 60 footer. Once I am getting good MPH I will fit a bigger stall converter.

2JZR31
25-01-07, 09:42 AM
sounds like the internal gate can't flow enough

Yep, I have a separate thread on in. I will be boring it out like the XR6 guys do.

jizmstr0
25-01-07, 12:16 PM
Sounds like you have got it sorted :)

I still have the "4000" stall which is actually a 2500 stall unless you have a turbo that makes boost at less than 2500rpm. Taking it out on Saturday with the smaller turbo on there (basically a non BB GT3076R) and running 15psi and just hoping to run 13.0@114-115mph with 2.3 60fters again. After that I will install my new converter which apparently actually is a 4000stall which should see me making a heap more boost off the line!

2JZR31
25-01-07, 01:00 PM
Keep us posted on what happens on Saturday :) You should smash 2.3 60 footers if you can build boost on a 2500 stall considering I done 2.28 with a 2000 stall and no boost in a heavier car.

jizmstr0
25-01-07, 01:59 PM
keyword is "should" ;)

2JZR31
25-01-07, 06:57 PM
I fixed the kink in the exhaust. I fitted a large 3" resonator because I was thinking about it anyway and the damage on the exhaust happened right where I was thinking of installing it. I won't be able to see if it cut down on drone for a while since the car will be off the road for a while again.

I removed the turbo for wastegate porting duties. Which scares me a bit since I new rear housing costs a mint if I stuff it up.

I might get some polishing done while I am at it. Turbo comp cover, rocker covers, plenum etc...

2JZR31
28-01-07, 08:57 PM
I'm getting some US spec cams which are supposedly good for 10 rwkw or so with stock turbos, so probably more with a single. Only the intake cam is better, with 0.45mm more lift and 10deg more duration. They will take a week or so to arrive, so that gives me time to do some shiny work.

Turbo comp cover, plenum, rocker covers etc have been removed for polishing for $150. Pretty good eh? That should get some bling into the engine bay. :)

Also, I think I might chop the TB in half to get rid of the ugly and restrictive traction control butterfly and associated stepper motors etc too.

Trying to get my brother motivated to port the wastegate, but I still haven't found any info on how big they normally go with it.

BigMuz
29-01-07, 06:25 AM
Turbo comp cover, plenum, rocker covers etc have been removed for polishing for $150. Pretty good eh? That should get some bling into the engine bay. :)
Yeah awesome :gay:.

2JZR31
29-01-07, 11:32 AM
Yeah awesome :gay:.

Under bonnet bling FTW.

Norbie
29-01-07, 11:52 AM
Don't forget to anodise your radiator cap bro.

2JZR31
29-01-07, 12:10 PM
Na I will just buy a $200 HKS one that already comes anodised red.

Cap purchased...

http://images.andale.com/f2/119/127/11731251/1146374600178_radiatorcap_honda_r.jpg

Next on the list. Stickers. lots of them. Plus $300 spark plugs.