View Full Version : Garage Takai IPRA AE86 (56k die)
Ok, im slightly bored at work, so i thought i would start a compendium of the IPRA car which i have and run.
I bought this old AE86 Sprinter thing in 2004 when i was living in Melbourne, because i remember seeing them run at Bathurst in the late 80s, and always thought they were pretty damn cool.
It started off looking like this:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3033-2/Picture_002.jpg
With more things wrong with it than you could poke a stick at. Nevertheless, it didnt have much rust in it, and was going to make a good little weekend racer/club car, which i was originally going to keep rego on.
As 2004 wore on it started looking less and less like the old road car it used to be:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3060-2/DSCF0001.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3078-2/DSCF0005_1.jpg
But i was still going to put a good interior back in it, and maybe a half cage and just use it as a weekend racer.
So i took the 4AGE out of my old FWD Corolla and started to work at RWDing it:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3114-2/DSCF0017.jpg
Meanwhile, coilover bits came, and more suspension and driveline parts:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5272-2/DSCF0004_002.jpg
Engines went:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3129-2/DSCF0007_002.jpg
And then half of the car went:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3149-2/DSCF0007_1.jpg
New Diffs came:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3173-2/DSCF0003_002.jpg
And then i decided that the stock sound deadening was too heavy:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3190-2/DSCF0002_002.jpg
Note the quality tools used in this photo *cough*
A bit later in the year i was up in Canberra for the snow, and picked up some trick bits from Ben Wilson (cheers mate), as well as my new suspension, and throttle bodies:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3249-2/DSCF0006_003.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3265-2/DSCF0004_009.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3263-2/DSCF0003_006.jpg
Later still i started shovelling it all into the car:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3302-2/DSCF0009_005.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3324-2/DSCF0011_004.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3326-2/DSCF0013_003.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3466-2/DSCF0001_011.jpg
And thats where all my nice little plans went wrong.......
Ok, time to continue this, despite the broken wrist, and stupid arse being able to type.
So about September 2004 i ended up in Canberra to visit my olds for the holidays and to generally chill out for a bit. While i was there i managed to catch up with a mate of mine from when i first got into cars. One certain indigoid. While i was there he thought i should meet up with mate of his who has a race car. A week or so later im standing in Tim Button's shed looking at his 1600 race car sitting there.
Somehow about 2 weeks later i started thinking about this strange thing called IPRA.
I put it off for a while in order to complete the car, but it was still on the back of my mind.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3402-2/DSCF0003_014.jpg
The junkyard called my workshop.
Had a few issues about how close the water outlet sat to the quads....
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3486-2/DSCF0004_018.jpg
And fixed them:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3482-2/DSCF0002_016.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3508-2/DSCF0006_012.jpg
Had suspension issues, and fixed them too
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3510-2/DSCF0007_012.jpg
Got new gauges, and a bit of black drift bling.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3520-2/DSCF0012_005.jpg
It was tons better than the original black that was on there
Did the battery, fuel and struts:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3538-2/DSCF0021_002.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3532-2/DSCF0018_002.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3528-2/DSCF0016_004.jpg
And then the camera broke.
More updates when my wrist stops hurting from this batch of typing.
Where are the rest of the pics?
Billzilla
01-08-07, 09:23 PM
I endorse this product and/or service.
Will continue this tomorrow at work. Broke my wrist at the snow on Monday.....
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/20289-2/DSC00151.JPG
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/20304-2/DSC00157.JPG
Fondles
01-08-07, 09:51 PM
fark man this should be called the ladyboy thread,
all these sexy photos getting everyone highly aroused only to be let down.
kinda like when a person* in thailand takes a sexy lady home and after showers and getting the freak on only to find she had a penis......
grrrrrrrrr
* may or may not be one sir v8tfcorty...
No wrist guards?
fark man this should be called the ladyboy thread,
all these sexy photos getting everyone highly aroused only to be let down.
kinda like when a person* in thailand takes a sexy lady home and after showers and getting the freak on only to find she had a penis......
grrrrrrrrr
* may or may not be one sir v8tfcorty...
:eek:
quoted so you can't deny it later!!!
did you find out by touching his/her/it's wang???
maybe i should do one of the gemini...........
fuck its been a while.
Takai looking good so far.
charged
02-08-07, 08:01 PM
The car is finished, if they ever are:(, he just has to stop breaking fuckin bones, fix the blown head gasket and get it back on the track for the November Class A battle:):)
Ben Wilson
02-08-07, 09:09 PM
The car is finished, if they ever are:(, he just has to stop breaking fuckin bones, fix the blown head gasket and get it back on the track for the November Class A battle:):)
You forgot about setting fire to things ;)
charged
02-08-07, 09:20 PM
yep those socks can be a worry:yup:, air box FTW
No cup of water, no care...
Heh, i have about half of the next post typed up. Just a stupid contract that i need to write got in the way. Plus its damn hard typing with a broken wrist.
charged: without any unforseeable disasters (like breaking something else DH racing) ill be out in November.
Definately 100% broken
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/20460-2/DSC00160.JPG
I hear a sexy beast of a man rolled the guards on this for you chris :sandyvag: :rotflol:
dont be fooled by the photos people...this thing is 100% shitbox...through and through :D:owned::yup:
lol
Bwahaha, yeah guards are rolled. Really should finish telling the story, including when it blew up.
Ill get around to that soon.
Its not that much of a shitbox though, it does need some TLC though, but thats coming next year.
I see no italics in the above post
you = teh lies
charged
18-08-08, 02:30 PM
Whats happening with this project ?
I can remember reading about it yonks ago. Second the motion for updates.
da9jeff
18-08-08, 10:17 PM
would also like updates, from another thread is this running a 3sge of some sort?
Ok, ill get to updates. Ill put that in along with the "processing 40gb of photos in work time, cos im bored".
No 3SGE though. Missed every meeting this year due to either weddings or bucks partys.
Right, so where was i?
I think by this time it was about September, and i had put a fair bit of stuff into the car. Managed to source some wheels for it:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3472-2/DSCF0004_017.jpg
Which were supposed to be my track wheels
And it was running a Microleb at this stage:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3498-2/DSCF0010_010.jpg
Add one reasonably dodgy harness bar too:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3602-2/DSCF0006_015.jpg
Anyway, i slapped it all together at this point, as i was moving back up to Canberra for a while.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3554-2/DSCF0004_019.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3560-2/DSCF0006_013.jpg
And off it went to Canberra courtesy of a mate who worked for TNT and slapped it on his truck for a case.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3564-2/DSCF0001_014.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3578-2/DSCF0008_011.jpg
Up in Canberra it was stored outside my parents house for a night, before it was going into their garage. Anyway, within a night some prick had knocked off the Microleb. Plus the prick smashed the good sunroof i had in there :( Not happy jan.
Anyway, insurance came to the party and replaced the Microleb with a Haltech E6X and i wasnt too sad about the whole ordeal apart from it taking an extra month of wrangling.
While it was up in Canberra it got "tuned" with the Haltech by some cocksmokers (more on that later), and the neg camber RCAs were added:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3584-2/Image058.jpg
Also while it was there i put a freshened head on it (no porting, only smoothing) and the 308* GroupA copy cams, with the TODA cam gears, and unfortunately completely forgot to take any photos (camera batterys were probably flat).
After that it went on another journey back down to Melbourne after the 3 months of contract were up.
Here it is back home:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3586-2/DSCF0023_003.jpg
It got new boots:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3588-2/DSCF0024_003.jpg
And the now infamous socks:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3590-2/DSCF0025_001.jpg
While it was down there it went into Brown Davis for a half cage to be installed as per my original weekend racer intentions.
Upon coming back, the roof and sides were touched up with paint:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3614-2/DSCF0004_022.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3648-2/DSCF0002_021.jpg
And it looked pretty damn good, if i may say so myself.
This however is where things started on a bit of a downwards spiral.
Firstly i took it back up to Canberra over Christmas (cheers to old mate again) and it started having a few issues with randomly stalling, and not cranking again. So after consulting with Ben Wilson and Mark i took it to Peter (i think its Peter) at AlfaTune in Fyshwick where we started finding a stack of problems. When it was originally tuned they had put the dizzy in 180* out, and had hooked up the signal trigger to the TDC+180 amplifier (which is meant to just amplify the trigger signal).
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/7029/004ga9.jpg
So here you can see the CAS within the dizzy, it should have been hooked up to the trigger on the upper right, but instead it was hooked up to the lower left one, which is a much weaker signal. Explained the crappy ignition i was having. Plus they had used scotchlocks to join the ECU wiring to the dizzy wiring, and these kept coming undone.
Anyway, after this i took it out to Wakefield which was great, had three laps pushing 1m14s before disaster struck. On turn 2 i was coming around the outside of a mini, which was doing signficantly lower lap times, anyway as the nose of my car is about in line with the B pillar of the mini, a guy in a 911 decides to try to go around the outside of both of us. Anyway what with the corner tightening, and the mini understeering a bit i got squeezed and the passenger corner of the mini hit one guard and the drivers wheel arch on the 911 hit the other guard... Not happy jan. Was only a light touchup though, and we got on with it. Later on the same lap i put the foot down slightly hard out of Turn 10, and heard a nice clunking and thunking from the rear. Turns out i had cracked one or many of the teeth off the nice 4.3 crownwheel and they had promptly jammed into the LSD center and messed the whole thing up. Flatspotted one of my tyres too when the entire mess locked up.
After a courtesy tow home, i replaced the diff with a 3.9 open center i had lying around and flew off to the Philippines for three weeks to help build a community center there. Thus ended 2004. More in another post. too scared about the forums screwing up and losing it all
Ok, i figure that for this update ill document up to the next phase of its life.
When i came back from the Philippines i went to get it engineered in Canberra, but before that Ben told me about a Khana which BMSC was running, i duly entered and this is how it looked:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3650-2/dsc_0428_sized.jpg
Thanks to whoever took that pic.
Subsequently i got the car engineered, and it passed over the pits second time (first one was still a touch loud).
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5188-2/IMG_0566.jpg
Anyway, i moved to Adelaide to finish off my uni degrees, and left it in my parents garage for 3 months until Easter as i didnt have anywhere to store it down in Adelaide.
Courtesy of Mr 1JZ i was able to store it in his back yard for a while so i had it trucked down (the only transport i actually had to pay for), and it arrived on a Friday. Now i found out that on the Monday of the next week (Anzac Day) there was a drift practice day, and seeing as i really wanted to get track time in the thing i decided to head along.
So off we went out to Mallala, and i found that i had a couple of issues with the clutch heating up along the way, but that was ok, and I got there eventually.
Out i went onto the track and im hammering around for a couple of laps, completely sucking at drifting, until im coming through the kink (driving more like its a Supersprint than a drift day) and the throttle jams wide open going into Northern hairpin. So without being able to use gears to slow im pretty damn screwed so i pulled the electrical kill switch and threw the car around 180deg because i figured that if i was going to hit the wall i would prefer to hit it backwards (or the sand for that matter), but as i rolled to a stop i heard a small pop come from the engine bay, and very quickly found that smoke was pouring out from the drivers side.
Out i hopped damn quickly and peeked in to find fire lapping around.
Now im sure everyone will remember this photo:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3532-2/DSCF0018_002.jpg
Which is the fuel surge tank, which i REALLY didnt want to go pop. So i emptied 1kg of dry powder into the bay, half onto that and half onto the quads where the fire was. Soon i also found out the strange fact that drifters dont carry extinguishers, plus i was "around the corner" out of sight of the fire marshalls. Luckily someone alerted them, and one of the local rally drivers was out mucking around in the rally car, and he was able to dump 2kg of AFFF onto it, before the fireys dumped another couple of kg of AFFF onto it.
I cant find the photo which was taken in the pits (Mr1JZ could probably find that, it was on NS somewhere) but here are a few of what it looked like as i started stripping it down:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5192-2/IMG_0570.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5194-2/IMG_0572.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5189-2/IMG_0567.jpg
I'm still grateful that the surge tank didnt go pop.
And that was the end of the first phase of my AE86's life.
P.s. ill update this again later, this is enough for today.
pit photo would be http://www.dysfunction.ws/albums/Sprinter/post_15_1114493442.sized.jpg
was one of mikey's pics
Yep, although if you can find the actual picture of it that woudl be good, dysfunction.ws was stolen off me by a website sniper...
Sorry to see things go sour, was looking great for a while there though.
So you moving the fuel system to the boot/under-carrige on rebuild? There is going to be a rebuild right?
Yeah, the rebuild has been done. That fire happened in 2005, ill update this thread again during the week as i get more and more bored at work.
On one hand, I'm glad to see this kind of thing happens to other people
On the other hand, I know what it's like to go through this kind of thing where you often end straight back at square 1 after pouring blood, $ and time into cars.
Keep the story coming!
Gavatron
07-09-08, 12:19 PM
Update. It's fun to relive stuff that has gone wrong with your car.
Gavatron
22-03-09, 05:03 PM
Today was the first progress in about 2 years. The head gasket popped at the last race Chris ran in, and it has sat ever since.
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3562/220320090562.jpg
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/5066/220320090542.jpg
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/441/22032009057.jpg
Ok, a touch bored at work, so where was i.
Oh thats right, the entire thing blew up on me, and so i had to rebuild it.
That year was pretty busy, being my final year at uni and all, but i ended up bringing the car back to my little flat in North Adelaide and working on it when i could.
Looked roughly like this when i started:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/554-3/IMG_0001.jpg
Proof that heat shielding stuff actually works.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/527-3/IMG_0574.jpg
So i started cleaning things up, and since i had to rebuild the rack anyway, i thought i would get a Quaife rack... which failed.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/581-3/IMG_0007_001.jpg
Got one of the batch which needed to be returned, took almost 18 months.
Got started pulling the engine out, and at this point i decided what the hell, lets go racing seriously.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/614-3/IMG_0018.jpg
Grinding down for seam welding
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/617-3/IMG_0019.jpg
Got a new C's short shifter
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/629-3/IMG_0023.jpg
Kept cleaning stuff up
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/785-2/IMG_0002_003.jpg
Stitch welded, and then painted the engine bay in POR15
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/794-2/IMG_0005_004.jpg
JDM 4A bellhousing for fewer clutch slave issues
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/791-2/IMG_0004_003.jpg
With some of the wiring issues i had before, i went a bit OTT on wiring up the new loom.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/809-2/IMG_0010_001.jpg
Crimps, solder and heatshrink.
Wired all to a 20pin quickrelease ATX style connector
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/842-2/IMG_0007_1.jpg
New dash cluster
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5278-2/IMG_0015_001.jpg
Working out on the balcony:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3789-2/IMG_0016_001.jpg
with the blue tarp to keep the rain out.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3792-2/IMG_0017_001.jpg
Junk everywhere
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/3795-2/IMG_0018_001.jpg
Car outside underneath the deck.
Decided while i was at it that i would rewire the entire car
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5282-2/IMG_0019_001.jpg
Rebuilt the struts incase of heat damage
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5287-2/IMG_0024_001.jpg
Dash cluster
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5309-2/IMG_0050_002.jpg
Started work on the airbox
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/4811-2/IMG_0051_001.jpg
New brake lines
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5311-2/DSCF0055.jpg
Coil over plugs
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5313-2/IMG_0051_003.jpg
That about took me until December when i finished up my exams. Pretty hard getting much done with 6 subjects at uni, and other committments.
That summer though, i got heaps done. First of all a mate opened a workshop, and in exchange for the use of my engine crane and trolley jack i got free storage/workspace out there:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5314-2/IMG_0050_003.jpg
Where the real fun started.
More on that soon, post limit stuff.
Haha, its a build thread in review, much easier to just rehash what happened 3 years ago than do anything new on it :P
does the quaife rack fit in the normal rack? or is it a direct replacement because i would be careful of the replacement rack rules.
is this car in canberra or adelaide mate?
Its about 200m from you as the crow flies Cplus.
Fish: its a replacement rack inner and pinion. Valid. But still sitting on my bench as Quaife took almost 18 months to get me a new one, and by then i had just put in a wrecker rack.
From when i got it in there it was on like donkey kong.
Built a new plenum, after it looked like the old one wasnt going to fit:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/4983-1/IMG_0071_001.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5494-1/IMG_0014_002.JPG
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5485-1/IMG_0011_002.JPG
New fueling system:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5033-1/DSC00181.jpg
Shimless bucket setup:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5125-1/DSC00245.JPG
Put the interior back together and finished off the wiring (yes, all the red wires are fused +B feeds)
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5103-1/IMG_0067_002.jpg
Got it all back together and sent it off to be caged:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5457-2/IMG_0001_004.JPG
Cage:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5461-1/IMG_0003_006.JPG
Came back and got an exhaust:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6087-2/DSC00280.jpg
Went off to be tuned, blew up an ignitor:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6135-2/IMG_0002_006.JPG
Plus the coil over plug setup was excessively hard to get readings for timing, so i cracked it and redid the ignition system:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6157-1/IMG_0015_003.JPG
From there on it was back to my house to finish off the little things for scrutineering:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6168-2/IMG_0019_003.JPG
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6177-2/IMG_0021_003.JPG
Tailshaft loops:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6189-2/IMG_0025_002.JPG
Killswitch:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6183-2/IMG_0023_003.JPG
Fuel firewall:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6180-2/IMG_0022_004.JPG
Scrutineering happened, and then it was off to my first meet:
Night before:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6214-1/IMG_0033.JPG
Out there:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6220-1/IMG_0035.JPG
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6226-1/IMG_0037.JPG
Thats not supposed to happen:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6243-2/IMG_0042.JPG
Turns out that the booster diaphragm had busted during the fire, so i had buggerall front brakes and all rears. Lead to spinning a hell of a lot. So i only just qualified, and had race 1 then packed up and went home. Good learning experience.
Out came the booster and boosted MC, and in went of all things an unboosted 240K master:
Mounting plate:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6345-2/IMG_0003_007.JPG
Mocked up:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6368-2/IMG_0003_008.JPG
Setting pushrod throw:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6392-2/IMG_0014_004.JPG
All back together:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/6405-2/IMG_0023_004.JPG
The season that year had a bit of a break between August and November, so i took it out to a couple of practice days. At one of them my one of my bonnet pins snapped and the other came loose and the bonnet popped up at 140km/h into Turn1. Cracked the windscreen, and smashed the sunroof. Sunroof wasnt the end of the world, as i wanted to replace it anyway:
All done.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/7086-2/IMG_0186.JPG
I then did the last two events of the year, including the twilight meet. At the twilight meet i was unlucky enough to be pulling in at the end of Qualifying only to have the car in front run out of fuel in the pit lane entrance. I couldnt go anywhere, and couldnt go back out onto track, the marshalls wouldnt let me turn off the car (probably for fear of it not staritng again) so i had to sit there idling with no thermofan. Hit 110* before i got moving again, and so i had to do a few laps of the pits at <20km/h to try and get the temps down before parking it.
Surely enough, i had blown the head gasket. I managed to do R1 and R2 before putting it back on the trailer and calling it a day. Best times out there to date in that car too, 1:27.2 with a BHG.
When i got it home i parked the car, and ended up buying a house under a week after that event. From there on until now its been pretty busy getting the house sorted, and getting married. However, now im ready to get back into it. Parts are coming together, and work is beginning....
Stay tuned...
And now for something completely different. Im actually doing work on this car again, so a to-do list is probably in order:
Put engine back together (with a new ARP washer to replace the one which went walkies)
Relocate brake bias adjuster into the cabin
Relocate battery into the rear passenger side seat area
Build new seat rails, without sliders, so i can sit without my head hitting the roof
Make new airbox
Make traction brackets to locate lower links further down
Regrease all the suspension bushings
Drop Quaife rack off for rebuild
Transfer sump over from my other 4AG
Install switch activated thermofan
Decide whether to stay with 14s or go to 15s
Convert to RX7 brakes
Add oil filter relocator and cooler after the last setup was stolen
Currently im trying to decide whether i should bite the bullet and go to 283mm discs and 15" rims, or stay with 14"s and go with the 266mm equivalent disc. Both with the RX7 caliper.
charged
07-07-09, 07:23 PM
Currently im trying to decide whether i should bite the bullet and go to 283mm discs and 15" rims, or stay with 14"s and go with the 266mm equivalent disc. Both with the RX7 caliper.
Chris I would go the 280mm rotor and 15s mate, the tyres arent much dearer, they come in a 50 profile and seem to be quicker than the 14s.
On the brakes go the 280mm straight away, we have found once the lap times drop the brakes suffer, mine were fine at the start but now are good for 3 laps. Im in the process of going the rx7 upgrade and 15s aswell. Plus if you go turbs eventually the brakes will but up to the task
Yeah, thats the way im leaning. Just picked up some 15x7s too
Found another option of squeezing 294mm rotors under there.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c162/klusio/AE86/232.jpg
Bit more dicey with wheel fitment though, plus a harder to make bracket:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c162/klusio/AE86/235.jpg
vs
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/4492/mazdabrake4sl3.jpg
11.75" Wilwood discs on custom alloy hubs compared to RA60 disc (260mm roughly) on AE86 hub. I have RX7 4pots clamping the Wilwoods and it all fits inside a 15x7 performance superlite (just). The Wilwood/alloy hub combo also comes in lighter than the previous combo - cant remember the exact figure but it was more than 1kg per side.
Who made up the Alloy hub? Im still going to keep with my RA40/RT132 hubs because of the bearing size though :)
Looks good though, that info with Rowds stuff about the VT gives me confidence that 294mm discs will fit.
Edit: oh and taylz, when did you switch to an AE86, i thought you still had a Datto of some sort.
Edit2: the other thing im vaguely concerned about is pad contact area, being almost a 20mm bigger disc than the caliper/pads are designed for.
Switched to AE86 a couple of years ago (was the KE35 in the avatar). The majority of the running gear is out of the KE. The AE86 is now 3 seconds per lap faster than the KE ever was, with at least another second in it. It was 2 full seconds a lap quicker in its first meeting out (running gear swapped in and put on the track with no setup). The front brake change dropped another second.
The hubs were done by a local engineer, we supplied him with a billet of 6061-T6. There are renderings of some 2 piece hubs for an RX7 on the IP forums that I took the inspiration from. The Wilwood's swept area fits the RX7 caliper perfectly.
Ah nice one. Seems to be a few sprinters around now. Used to be just Chris O'Shannessy, Justen McClintock and myself back when i first built the car.
Well between Vista dying in the arse on my work machine, and a supplier calling to say that the swaybar for the Cressy was in i packed up early today and came home.
After i put the swaybar on the Cressy i had a bit under an hour before dinner to get some work on the Spoonter done.
So ive made a start on shifting the battery and isolator switch, and started thinking about making new rails for the seat. Thinking about it anyway.
On with the Edo spec pics:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27762-1/Image219.jpg
Relocated isolator switch. Used to be behind the handbrake hole on the trans tunnel, but it really wasnt a very intuitive spot to reach for, so its going in plain sight.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27765-1/Image220.jpg
Started installing battery box, and then realised that i dont have any plate/bar steel to put into it for a base, and so its just tek screwed in. Relocated the main fuses near there now and cleaned up some of the wiring.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27768-1/Image221.jpg
Bling bling waterpump underdrive pulley arrived the other day from the US. Cheaper than sourcing one locally, and relatively blingy. Hopefully it will help with the cavitation problem i was having going through the kink at 8900rpm.
Thats about it for now, hoping to get some more work done this weekend.
morerevsm3
10-07-09, 11:24 AM
I can fit 15" wheels over my 315mm rear discs
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/morerevsm3/Picture476.jpg
So squeezing 294s under really wont be a problem.
Only problem now is the fact that DBA, RDA, Protex, and Brembo have nil stock. The only stock of these rotors in the country is BMW, and they want $490 each. Ill skip on that one, looks like the brake upgrade has to wait for a few months... no problems.
I can fit 15" wheels over my 315mm rear discs
Ill raise you 15, i have 330mm rotors in a 15.
Bah, stop making my 294s seem small :P
Ill raise you 15, i have 330mm rotors in a 15.
What caliper?
I got some more work done on the car this weekend. Firstly rebuilding 4As is like riding a bike, you never really forget how to do it. So i popped the head on, and started tensioning up everything, but to put the timing belt back on i had to take off the alternator belt:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27773-1/Image222.jpg
And then the alternator basically fell off.
Found that at some point in the past the bolt holding the custom alternator bracket had sheared off the block leaving the alternator held on by only 1 bolt at the bottom.
So in the vein of Babs' hako thread, and Edos camerawork, i put together a little howto on removing a sheared bolt.
Firstly, find a bolt that has sheared off, like this alternator bolt, soak it with penetrene/rp7/wd40.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27776-1/Image224.jpg
And pop a nice little punch mark into the center of it.
Then take your drilling tool of choice, in my case a re-cased Bluepoint air drill:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27779-1/Image226.jpg
Internals by bluepoint, casing by supercrap.
Drill a hole down the center of the bolt, carefully. I chose a 3mm bit for this task:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27782-1/Image225.jpg
I blame edo for the crap photo.
Then source an appropriate torx bit (i buy them up when they are going cheap at bunnings) and hammer it into the bolt.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27785-1/Image227.jpg
Take one shifter with a 1/4" socket on the end and slowly and gently wind it out:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27788-1/Image228.jpg
Voila, one removed bolt:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27791-1/Image230.jpg
So other than that, i went and picked up my 4.77 ratio diff, and new door cards for the rear. I did end up redoing the timing belt and finishing off assembly but no pics of that for now. I need to go see a bolt store to buy a whole stack of stainless capscrews to replace the mild ones which are rusting up.
I also did some work on relocating the brake bias valve incabin just infront of the handbrake hole in the trans tunnel.
Plus i got around to drilling off the brackets for the seat rails, so i can build up some custom ones, to hopefully mount this new seat a bit lower than the old one.
Which brings me to two questions (which ill probably repost in General or somewhere).
Firstly, for the distance between the trans tunnel and the valve would people use braided lines, or just run hardlines all the way?
Secondly, what gauge steel would people use for the seat rails? Im thinking 4 or 5mm thick bar. Anyone else?
HoonBoy
13-07-09, 12:22 PM
Is the valve a pro-portioning valve style thingy? If so, hard lines all the way, nothing is going to move so save the dollars and effort.
How wide for the seat rais? I used 20x20x3 (or something similar, defiently 3mm guage) and it doesn't flex with my weight on it, most of the forces are towards the edge of the car so they don't need to be massive.
Yeah, proportioning valve, will be hard mounted.
Not overly wide for the rails, maybe 25mm max. However, im building mine on the stock mounts, because removing the crossrail in the ae86 doesnt really gain you much height (big trans bulge under the drivers seat)
HoonBoy
13-07-09, 01:06 PM
Going to need some pics to give a decent answer, if you are trying to lower the seat then using RHS might be a bad idea in which case you will need something thicker guage.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/5009-1/IMG_0069.jpg
Really bad picture of another car, and passenger side, but just mirror it and you get the idea.
Edit: too many Edo-spec photos in this thread for someone who has photography as hobby. Will have to do better. Going to take home the "garage camera" today.
Ok, as i said before, too many Edo spec photos in this thread. Hence here are some clear ones to even out the ratio.
Fully assembled engine:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27794-1/IMG_2662.JPG
With gratuitious toyota flag:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27797-1/IMG_2663.JPG
Remounted kill switch:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27803-1/IMG_2665.JPG
Where the brake bias valve will go:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27802-2/IMG_2664.JPG
And finally some of the floorpan around the seat area:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27806-1/IMG_2666.JPG
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27809-1/IMG_2667.JPG
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27812-1/IMG_2668.JPG
Including the cutoff bracketry.
Now looking at it again, rationally, i think ill end up mounting the sidemounts on the left side (tunnel side) straight to the floor, with some reinforcement, but also see if i can get the "nose" of the seat up over the crossbar in the floor, because that keeps my knees in the best location. I think ill end up welding SHS to the floor on the right (outboard) side though, so im not sure how that will go.
I went out and jigged everything up and made a hell of a lot of measurements tonight.
First i got the seat in the right place:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27815-1/IMG_2669.JPG
Right there its comfortable, i can reach the pedals, it fits (snug between cage and trans tunnel) and i dont think ill have issues with my knee being dicky at that angle (i had serious issues in our FormulaSAE car where my knee was at about 10* bent).
Then i got out my little friend/new toy:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27818-1/IMG_2679.JPG
Basically a digital inclinometer, or spirit level. But it does bucket loads of stuff and you can set it to a base reference other than horizontal (gravity) etc.
Checked on the block of wood ontop of the seat:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27821-1/IMG_2682.JPG
0.1deg, good enough, if that tiny angle is much of an issue i can adjust it out with the seat in place.
Got out the trusty paint pen, and made stacks of markings:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27824-1/IMG_2671.JPG
And now im left with this:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27827-1/IMG_2688.JPG
The horizontal mark at the top is the angle of the seat rails (as they arnt perfectly square, almost but not quite), the vertical tick marks are where the holes in the rails are. In this configuration the rails are butting up hard against the cross brace, so i cant really go any further forward, and i cant go further back due to the cage. Just perfect.
The front mark with the F above it is the frontmost of the front 3 holes, 25mm from the brace. Each of the holes in the rail is 20mm apart.
At the back i have the 2 rearward most holes marked out of which im thinking ill use the rearmost as the front one will be VERY tight on the stock mount. Plus im considering keeping the stock mounts so i can mount a stock seat in for tuners to use (the seat is custom for me, and quite narrow).
Now the real thing i have to decide is whether to mount rails across the car or down the length of the car. I could do a combination of the two, but its not going to be pretty. At the front i could do just tabs off the brace, but im not convinced of the strength of that, so it will be either all the way across or all the way down.
Ideas?
HoonBoy
13-07-09, 10:38 PM
Where did you get the get it right from? It would be very very useful!
Given you are not going to adjust it, I would use whatever ones mount easiest. Are you keeping the side mounts on the seat at the moment? They will add a fair amount of strength to any rails running underneath them. so you could use either RHS or angle mounted to the back of the rail and then similar material lengthways for the mounts to go on to.
The inclinometer was all of $50 from ebay. I got it from this guy: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Digital-Angle-Gauge-Protractor-Inclinometer-Clinometer_W0QQitemZ330343227922QQcmdZViewItemQQpt ZUK_Measuring_Tools_Levels?hash=item4ce9fda212&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|293%3A1|294%3A30
The side mounts on the seat will be staying, they are good mounts and cheap to boot (free for me). Im currently trying to figure out what orientation will be less likely to break in an accident.
I think Bunnings still have them under a similar name (they are silver, blue and yellow i think?), I picked one up earlier this year for around the $30 mark from memory. Very, very handy, buy another one, mount it to a fixture to mount to your wheel/tire combo so you have a half accurate way to measure camber.
I couldnt find any at bunnings, and even the big stores claimed they knew nothing about them.
Either way, with the design of the hubs in the AE86 i can just mount it straight off the dust cover
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27830-1/IMG_2688_001.JPG
That is what im thinking of atm. Unsure whether to put the tabs forward on the rear bar mount. Im only thinking of it because i think it could make mounting the seat rails easier, although for the strength loss it probably wont be as useful. Will have to see how high the 25mm box section at rear is off the floorpan.
Thoughts?
75x75x3mm plate and some 25SHS would be the easy way to go with some weld in 8mm bosses.
weld the palte to the tunnel and then weld the 25x25 to the plate and then to a plate near the cage - if legal and then use the original bit for the front bolts.
Yeah, i was figuring plating each end of the SHS. Given that the front of the rails sits below the top of the crossbeam so i think ill add another crossrail below the height of the factory crossbeam and just behind. Where the green line is above.
So i rearranged my day and came home a bit early this afternoon and got stuck into the rails.
Here is what i have come up with sofar:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27833-1/IMG_2690.JPG
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27842-1/IMG_2693.JPG
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27845-1/IMG_2694.JPG
Not bad for about an hours work if i say so myself.
Pretty much level:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27854-1/IMG_2697.JPG
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27857-1/IMG_2698.JPG
And that little unevenness can be adjusted out with the slotting on the sides of the rails.
And for GTSBoy, this is why im not going to bother cutting out the original crossbeam:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27848-1/IMG_2695.JPG
There is buggerall clearance under the floorpan anyway, and i need to have the seat raked back slightly to keep my knees up otherwise i have a hell of a time using the clutch as my knee locks up.
I havnt welded it in yet, as i need to remove all the fuel lines from the trans tunnel (not taking that risk) and remove anything which might be damaged by the welding sparks, cover windows etc etc.
Im not sure whether ill relieve all the sides by 3mm to fit some plate in there, im sorely tempted to, but the front will be reinforced to the crossbeam, and the outboard side of the rear is 4mm thick anyway.
While i was mucking around the other night in the garage i mocked up where the brake bias adjuster will sit:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27839-1/IMG_2692.JPG
Ill mount it after i have finished welding in the rails.
Not being picky Chris , but I would put a flat /thick washer under both the bolt head & nut/lockwasher to give the hex head profile more to "sit"on....cover the slot fully.
IMHO
-------
Dave
Yeah, as per the not welded in bit they are just mocked up for now. will be run with washers and locknuts when its finally put together. Those bolts are only finger tight for now.
Ben Wilson
16-07-09, 08:16 PM
Chris, what's the go with the front rail? Is the bit of box holding it up?
The front rail is actually 40x40x3 angle, and the box is holding it level until i weld it to the floorpan.
Any concern Ben?
going to mount the bias on the side of the tunnel or on a bracket??
less weight mounting it on the tunnel.
On a bracket, too hard to reach on the side of the tunnel and interferes with me being able to grab the extinguisher quickly. I did think about that though.
Cant really move the extinguisher and still have it in easy reaching distance (thats one of hte CAMS regs right?). The only place i can mount it other than there is right infront of the seat, and that causes issues on interstate tracks.
1. Each automobile in any competition other than non-speed events must be equipped with a fire extinguisher
which complies with the following conditions and is properly fitted at a suitable location.
1.1 Hand held fire extinguishers:
(i) must remain restrained under an acceleration of 25G;
(ii) must be capable of removal by the driver (or crew, where applicable) without the aid of tools.
i'd move it so you can still reach it with the belts off.
takai, heres what i did with getting the seat lower.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/rexless/DSC00123.jpg
i copied whats on the pas. side and used 30mm rhs with roughly a 70x70x3 piece of steel either end, then put threaded inserts in...
I tried working around the lump in the floor but even with the seat as far back as i put it...my helmet would have hit the cage....i also cut the floor on the pas. side to get it almost on the floor.
I think i have a bit more room than you there, im a pretty small guy.
Just finished welding it all up:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27869-1/IMG_2718.JPG
I was a touch worried about penetration, but a quick check revealed that i need not be worried:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27872-1/IMG_2725.JPG
I plated the front outer weld, but didnt bother plating the rest. Reason being that i was welding to the existing seatbelt mount points, which are already heavily plated as so:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27875-1/IMG_2724.JPG
(from the underside).
I initially tacked it in and then bolted in the seat to measure. I now have about 2-3" of room between my head and the rollcage with my helmet on.
you do know you should have pads down the the SHS and angle?
mondo2000
19-07-09, 08:07 PM
What's the alternator off?
Nice car, keep up the good work.
HoonBoy
19-07-09, 08:54 PM
I think Bunnings still have them under a similar name (they are silver, blue and yellow i think?), I picked one up earlier this year for around the $30 mark from memory. Very, very handy, buy another one, mount it to a fixture to mount to your wheel/tire combo so you have a half accurate way to measure camber.
I couldnt find any at bunnings, and even the big stores claimed they knew nothing about them.
Either way, with the design of the hubs in the AE86 i can just mount it straight off the dust cover
Got two from bunnings today (so I can use one for the car and one for the rear cradle when it goes in) for $15 each on special down from $24.95. Very happy :)
Ben Wilson
19-07-09, 09:01 PM
Got two from bunnings today (so I can use one for the car and one for the rear cradle when it goes in) for $15 each on special down from $24.95. Very happy :)
Dammit - I was looking for them in my local Bunnings yesterday and couldn't find any...
HoonBoy
19-07-09, 09:02 PM
They were not in the area I would expect, still in the tool section and same isle as the spirit levels, but near the chalk strings etc. Suprised I found them at all!
roadsailing
19-07-09, 09:38 PM
oh yeah while you're in there with the steel and welding and shit you can flatten out the floor under the pedals, unless you have done it already
What's the alternator off?
Nice car, keep up the good work.
Alternator is a stock 4AG unit, with a custom mount to mount it lower down out of the way of the plenum.
Got two from bunnings today (so I can use one for the car and one for the rear cradle when it goes in) for $15 each on special down from $24.95. Very happy :)
Nice, ill have to go have a look at my local Bunnings, see if i can get some more. Will have to convince them that they have them first.
oh yeah while you're in there with the steel and welding and shit you can flatten out the floor under the pedals, unless you have done it already
I ended up rivetting a piece of aluminum under there a few years ago when i first did the car. Put skateboard "tape" all over it for grip.
Ben Wilson
19-07-09, 09:46 PM
They were not in the area I would expect, still in the tool section and same isle as the spirit levels, but near the chalk strings etc. Suprised I found them at all!
Both I and the GF (nopics) were both looking around there, I might have to try another Bunnings..
you do know you should have pads down the the SHS and angle?
Huh, none of the diagrams in the CAMS manual or any pictures of anyone elses car shows pads the entire way along the length of the SHS or angle.
The butts are welded into the pre-existing 3mm pads which are part of the stock seat mounts.
HoonBoy
23-07-09, 12:53 PM
Both I and the GF (nopics) were both looking around there, I might have to try another Bunnings..
I've got to go back to replace the exploding metal saw I bought at the same time... you want me to get some if they still have them?
Now that the seat mounts are done the next thing on the list of things to do is build a set of these:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/27955-1/traction1.jpg
The cheapest ones ive seen for sale are around $200, which i think is a bit exorbitant for a bit of sheet steel and some bolts. I have some 100x3mm plate which ill bend up the brackets out of.
HoonBoy
23-07-09, 01:34 PM
And they are for???
On the AE86 the lower 4link arms are shorter than ideal, and as such the easiest method of fixing the pinion angle on a lowered car is to simply extend the mounting points downwards 50mm or so.
Interestinly i was reading through the CAMS manual (here (http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/02_race/d_3rd_Category/RA29_Group_3J_Q309.pdf)) today trying to find how far the maximum i can relocate them is, and found that a few of the other requirements for IPRA have changed during my off time. Of particular interest is there used to be a clause that you couldnt move the suspension pickup points by more than 50mm, which i cant find anymore. If thats the case then the better method than using traction brackets is to simply go to an equal length 4link setup.
Also, clause 18.5 seems to imply that i can replace my stock bumper with a fibreglass one.
The only thing im trying to figure out is with the lack of a heading for 18 im wondering whether its part of the Late Model regs rather than the regs as a whole.
Edit: seems that 18.5 applies to Late model only:
17.1 The prescriptions of Articles 17.2 – 17.6 and 18.1 – 18.6 shall apply only to vehicles which comply with the
definition of a Late Model Vehicle (see Article 1.15).
roadsailing
23-07-09, 01:48 PM
And they are for???
so-called "traction brackets", they lower the mounting points of the lower diff links.
I have some TRD cheater mounts, which need to be welded on, from memory you should be able to extend the lower mounts by welding on to them pretty easily, i never liked the idea of bolt on traction brackets as to me it just seem like more bolts to come loose.
rowdytoot
23-07-09, 01:48 PM
Cant really move the extinguisher and still have it in easy reaching distance (thats one of hte CAMS regs right?). The only place i can mount it other than there is right infront of the seat, and that causes issues on interstate tracks.
nope another furphy propagated by scrutes with NFI Mine are mounted to where the rear seat was. you're going to have to get out of the car anyway, so having it within reach is really not helpful!
Additionally experience says that if their is a decent fire a 1 or 2 kg powder extinguisher will be all but useless, and if there is a decent fire, you're only priority should be getting the fuck out of the car, and away from it hen letting the fire marshalls handle it (at a circuit)
I have some TRD cheater mounts, which need to be welded on, from memory you should be able to extend the lower mounts by welding on to them pretty easily, i never liked the idea of bolt on traction brackets as to me it just seem like more bolts to come loose.
Yeah, im debating whether to just weld on the brackets, or to make bolt ons
I have to pull the diff out anyway to get the pumpkin out so that i can get it swapped over to the 4.77 center, so maybe this is a good point to weld them on.
nope another furphy propagated by scrutes with NFI Mine are mounted to where the rear seat was. you're going to have to get out of the car anyway, so having it within reach is really not helpful!
Additionally experience says that if their is a decent fire a 1 or 2 kg powder extinguisher will be all but useless, and if there is a decent fire, you're only priority should be getting the fuck out of the car, and away from it hen letting the fire marshalls handle it (at a circuit)
Yeah, im of the same opinion, but after being in a rally accident where the harness jammed im now of the opinion that i want at least a 1kg within reach so that if im jammed in and there is fire around my legs i can keep myself non-flaming for a bit longer.
While i think of it, this info is for Alan (morerevsm3) when he sees the thread. All the cage strengthening, linking to the front strut towers, wheel sizes, tyres sizes and suspension stuff which we were talking about on Monday are all only eligible for Late Model, which means for your M3 you are ok, but for the AE86 which is an EM i cant link to the strut towers etc.
Euroboost
25-07-09, 03:39 PM
nope another furphy propagated by scrutes with NFI Mine are mounted to where the rear seat was. you're going to have to get out of the car anyway, so having it within reach is really not helpful!
Additionally experience says that if their is a decent fire a 1 or 2 kg powder extinguisher will be all but useless, and if there is a decent fire, you're only priority should be getting the fuck out of the car, and away from it hen letting the fire marshalls handle it (at a circuit)
Look how many top level cars have been destroyed in fires despite having the latest firebottles fitted. A fuel fire in a race car is never going to be put out with 2kg or pwder, 20kg might do it but I doubt it. Car goes up, get the fuck out of there!
Ben Wilson
25-07-09, 03:44 PM
Yeah, im of the same opinion, but after being in a rally accident where the harness jammed im now of the opinion that i want at least a 1kg within reach so that if im jammed in and there is fire around my legs i can keep myself non-flaming for a bit longer.
Belt cutter (http://www.mrgadget.com.au/catalog/resqme-seat-belt-cutter-glass-breaker-p-1827.html) FTW..
Belt cutter (http://www.mrgadget.com.au/catalog/resqme-seat-belt-cutter-glass-breaker-p-1827.html) FTW..
Yup, got one now.
Over the last little while ive been doing some thinking about brake upgrades. Im not sure if ill do the 294mm disc option, but rather im thinking about a 280x30mm option, for the extra heat dissipation that 30mm thickness offers.
The setup im contemplating uses an S15 rotor which is 280x30mm, and will use the RX7 calipers i have but widened to support those rotors.
Now one of the advantages of this is that i can test the setup using S13 SR20 rotors which are 280x22mm and dont need caliper bridges to shove in a caliper to test. As such, here they are:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/28782-1/Image291.jpg
The central hole there will need to be enlarged from 67mm to 74mm, but that can be done on most lathes as they are only 280mm diameter, rather than the issues im having with my 308mm diameter rotors not fitting on several lathes ive tried.
The wheel in question is the 14x7 which im currently running, just mocked up for giggles. I dont really think ill ever be able to run those, but i thought i might try anyway. If i do run them it will be with 0.0000001mm of clearance (approximately).
Thoughts/suggestions etc?
Go to 15's for the piece of mind mate. I have the same OD rotor on my U12 with the nissan 4 pot's, and apart from the fact that the factory 14" alloys don't clear the wheel spokes, the caliper rubs on the ID of the wheel.
Yeah, i think i needed a whole lot more of italics through there. Find it remarkably hard to find 15x7s in a decent offset atm, most are +20 or so, or even +40.
Im wondering if ill have to resign myself to using bolton spacers at the front to clear some wheels. Or if ill end up doing the "JDM yo!" look with mismatched wheels front and rear.
Brackets on the diff are free, so you can change the brackets which hold the trailing arms. I have attached a pic of my car which you can see to sections hanging down from the diff to locate the lower trailing arms. Mine have 5 positions in which I can set the lower arms, and it definately makes a difference.
As for the relocation of suspension pick up points by 50mm....I think you will find that only relates to the front pivot point of the lower control arm, not the rear.
With the rear end, you must run the standard rear arms, however you can add additional arms. Some people in the past have added additional upper arms parralell with the lower arms, and rendered the standard upper arms useless by using foam or other soft materials as the "bushing". Then adding a watts link or panhard bar to control lateral movement.
Yeah, im unable to get a clear ruling out of CAMS as to the relocation of suspension pickup points. Either way though i mocked up my pinion shift and i need less than 50mm to get it hanging 10* nose down, so ill set it up with 4 or 5 positions to choose from and go from there.
The current one i have going is whether i can use mismatched wheels, 15s at the front and 14s at the rear. Only started thinking about that one this morning, and havnt consulted the manual yet.
Edit: seems that i can run different sized wheels front and rear. Looks and will be boong spec, but gets me out of an annoying situation of having a lack of 15x7s.
Dont forget that the only meaningful width A048 in a 14" is the 195...
Surely 15s all round would be a better proposition, even if it means having to go to some form of spacer on the front. Performance Superlites and Challengers are available with a lower offset that should be more suitable.
Whats the stud pattern?
All the top running sports sedans have 17s on the front and 16s on the rear.
4x114.3, we are restricted in tyre sizes though. Can be a maximum of 50 profile.
In 14s i can use 195/60/14, and 15s 195/50/15.
You could also get some Panasport wheels. I used to sell them, and run them on my car. Available in a range of offsets.
The importer's name is Steve Burns (Meroo Racing) based on the south coast of NSW. He can be contacted on 02 4422 1364.
He will be able to supply wheels for you, and they will be lighter than most options available to you.
You should have no problems running 15's all round. Justin McClintock in Sydney runs 15's on his IPRA Sprinter.
Yeah, no problems in actually running 15s all around. More a matter of finding 15s which dont cost the earth. Im running on a slightly tighter budget these days and cant splash $900 on a set of wheels and then follow it up with $1200 on tyres.
Im probably going to pick up a second hand pair of 15x7s for $150-200 and tyre them and use my exisitng 14s which have a few meetings left in them on the rear before going to full 15s.
charged
02-09-09, 03:37 PM
Yeah, i think i needed a whole lot more of italics through there. Find it remarkably hard to find 15x7s in a decent offset atm, most are +20 or so, or even +40.
Im wondering if ill have to resign myself to using bolton spacers at the front to clear some wheels. Or if ill end up doing the "JDM yo!" look with mismatched wheels front and rear.
Takai at the next meeting talk to Ken who runs the RX7, he bought 6 new challengers in a decent offset direct from Performace wheels for under 180 a rim.
Adam Allans sportmax wheels were cheap also. http://www.infiniteautosports.com.au/?page_id=77
Infinite auto dont have any Sportsmaxes anymore.
Instigator
03-09-09, 06:51 PM
Just read the whole thread. Love it!
Are you racing in NSW any time soon?
Solved one problem, and found some nice Simmons V4s for a very good price in 15x6.5:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/28963-2/IMG_0771_s.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/28966-2/IMG_0772_s.jpg
Now just waiting on my caliper spacers from a guy on the IPRA forum (hopefully he delivers...) and i need to machine out the center hole on my discs and we are good to go to start building the new brake upgrade.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29099-2/IMG_0820_s.jpg
Caliper spacers arrived today, looks like ill have to go and get busy with a lathe and get a couple of rebuild kits for RX7 calipers.
charged
22-09-09, 09:27 PM
Chris,
Will it be ready for the supertruck round, looks like IP will be added to the program, mine should be back together by then hopefullyand will use the race meet as a test for the new box, engine brakes, tyres etc. Entry looks to be around 200 for 2 days racing, much cheaper than a prac day.
http://www.mallala.com/321go/events.html
Chris,
Will it be ready for the supertruck round, looks like IP will be added to the program, mine should be back together by then hopefullyand will use the race meet as a test for the new box, engine brakes, tyres etc. Entry looks to be around 200 for 2 days racing, much cheaper than a prac day.
http://www.mallala.com/321go/events.html
$330 for 4 races for each class .[6 classes]
------
Dave
Yeah, just got the entry forms. Doesnt look likely for now, have a really hectic October and its getting worse.
meggala
24-09-09, 07:27 PM
great read
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29099-2/IMG_0820_s.jpg
Caliper spacers arrived today, looks like ill have to go and get busy with a lathe and get a couple of rebuild kits for RX7 calipers.
If you are using FD calipers hopefully he sent you long enough pins, mine were too short but replacements are on the way.
Ill have to check, but if in doubt i have a few spare sets of GTR caliper pins.
Just a quick update, i got around to machining out my discs the other day, which was all nice and easy, and then bolted them up to the hub and mocked it all up on the bench on Saturday.
Firstly, the caliper with spacers:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29251-1/IMG_0867_s.jpg
Then all mocked up on the strut:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29233-1/IMG_0861_s.jpg
I love compressed air for many things. Including operating rattleguns to lock up hub bearings so the wheel doesnt spin, and pushing pistons out of calipers so that they the pads clamp on a disc :)
Not going to be an easy caliper adaptor to make though:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29242-1/IMG_0864_s.jpg
Back there near the disc is the caliper adaptor mount, and almost 35mm away is the caliper mounting face:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29248-1/IMG_0866_s.jpg
Ohwell, should be a good challenge.
In other news i popped a wheel apart too while i was sick, should be easy enough to clean up and reassemble without disturbing the wheel halves seal:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29230-1/IMG_0851_s.jpg
Thats about it, as i said, not looking forward to making that caliper bracket.
I have a really complicated question.
How did you get the garage taki watermark on your photos :)
I have a really complicated question.
How did you get the garage taki watermark on your photos :)
photoshop mate. just add the watermark image as layer and make it slightly transparent.
Not only that, i automated it as an action so i can batch do it too.
Arrrgh, this new caliper adaptor setup is going to be a sweet pain in the arse.
This is a stock AE86 strut and hub with FC caliper with an S13 disc, which according to DBA has a 49mm overall height.
http://img64.echo.cx/img64/887/brakerearstep8ts.jpg
This is a RA40 strut and hub, with FD caliper and S15 disc, which according to DBA has a 54mm overall height.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29236-1/IMG_0862_s.jpg
Now that sits a hell of a lot more than 5mm closer to the strut, and im not sure why. Looks like a whole bunch of measuring with verniers is in order.
So i was really worried about the LCA not clearing the disc, and being forced to rejig it all. In the end i neednt have worried... too much:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29278-1/IMG_0877_s.jpg
LCA clears the disc, just. It actually sits within the disc for some of the distance, which isnt really an issue at all. But it does make building the caliper adaptor harder.
I also testfitted the V4s over the top, and breathed a massive sigh of relief when they cleared:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29272-1/IMG_0875_s.jpg
But only by just again:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29269-1/IMG_0874_s.jpg
That gives you an idea of how much the center clears, or more precisely how close it is. Remember that the rim bolts onto the center around those points.
And it doesnt clear by much:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29275-1/IMG_0876_s.jpg
That pic also gives you an idea of how hard the caliper adaptor will be to make. Should be loads and loads of fun. I remember seeing a caliper adaptor which Linden at RoadRunner Fab did for BigPerm and so i might see if i can borrow that to model mine off.
Also as RESON8 correctly predicted, the caliper pins are too short:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29284-1/IMG_0879_s.jpg
Marcus is being a champ and sending the longer version over though.
Ok, here are some horrible audio vids:
Phone video in the garage
77gaFnN3rg4
Qualifying :
hN2PvrJMBNw
Race1:
tj29pda8KCs
Race2 (with bonus insightful comments from Gav)
ML4F_pPe6I0
Video is so bad in the last ones because i killed the small lipstick camera by shoving 14v down its guts and instead im using a $10 Gawler DSE bargain bin home security camera in B&W
Yeah, it is a whole bucket of fun when its working, and a bucket of pain when its not.
I was going to be racing in the races last weekend, but the tyre supplier said they couldnt get tyres, so i cracked it and sold off the old front suspension and brakes early.
At that point i was 110% committted to going to the new setup.
Then all of 2 weeks later the tyer distributor said they could get the tyres again, and then i didnt have any front suspension or brakes.
Cut a long story short i havnt been overly motivated to work on it recently as it seems that i keep getting shafted. :)
Motivation did come around last night though, pulled out the diff and disassembled it so i can put in the 4.7 CWP.
Also started playing around with the brake package setup, and semi sorted out the backing plate for the setup.
I also picked up a few M6x120mm bolts to use as caliper pins. Should be nice and good :)
So after a whole bunch of mucking around, i finally got around to doing some stuff on the car.
Firstly i got the seat back in:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29559-1/IMG_0972_s.jpg
And the height is much improved from the old rails. I wont be hitting my head as much now :)
Next up was diff out:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29562-1/IMG_0973_s.jpg
Ready to put the 4.77 in rather than the 4.3 thats there now.
Then i set to work making up some traction brackets to be welded on. Just formed them out of a sheet of 3x100mm and hammer formed it around a 50x4 square tube. Came out pretty reasonably:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29565-1/IMG_0974_s.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29571-1/IMG_0976_s.jpg
Of course the only 12.5mm bit i have is absoultely rooted, so ill have to get a new one before i drill the holes in them.
Finally today i received a little package from Brad (bmak) which contained some RA40 caliper backing plates amongst other things:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29574-1/IMG_0977_s.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29583-1/IMG_0982_s.jpg
They have been nicely cut out of 8mm plate, and tons easier than it would have been with a drill press. All the bolt holes are spot on. Pretty cool.
Thats about it for now. Hoping to drop the diff off to a shop in the new year to get the CWP changed over. Plus now that i have the backing plates i can start to prototype the rest of the brake caliper. Things are looking up.
Ben Wilson
21-12-09, 10:02 PM
Of course the only 12.5mm bit i have is absoultely rooted, so ill have to get a new one before i drill the holes in them.
Garb grinder, make sharp..
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Nay, rooted like proper rooted. Its no longer straight. NFI how it happened, but its bowed by 2mm
Little update, i had a chance to work on the caliper adaptors tonight, and got some good work done on them.
Firstly i machined a recess for the hub to sit into the adaptor plate which bmak cut out for me:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29646-1/IMG_1001_s.jpg
Then i tapped two M12x1.25 holes in a pice of 12x50mm bar stock and bolted it to the back of the caliper, and then reassembled it all and jammed the caliper back onto the disc like so:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29643-1/IMG_1000_s.jpg
Now i was able to measure the distance between the strut adaptor plate and the bar stock which is bolted to the caliper. I was praying for a nice size that i could easily get stock in, so i wouldnt have to machine it up much..... and well the calipers came back saying 25mm gap... i couldnt believe my luck.
Next up i grabbed a bit of 25mm box section that i had lying around and jammed it in between the strut plate and the caliper plate, and voila:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29640-1/IMG_0999_s.jpg
Fits an absolute treat, so all i need to do now is to get some 25mm square solid and go to town with shaping up a plate to weld inbetween.
In some parts of that strut adaptor plate there is almost 20mm to the outer edge, so im thinking of drilling an 8mm hole and putting a couple of 8mm bolts in to add compression force to the welds, and so i have something nice and solid holding it all together. What do people think? Should i bolt the 3 pieces together as well, or just trust the welds?
Got stuck into finishing off the caliper adaptor on Sunday. Ground up a piece of 25mm plate to fit nicely in the little gap:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29652-1/IMG_1003_s.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29649-1/IMG_1002_s.jpg
Its only tacked together for now (and badly so since i couldnt get the head of the MIG into the gap and so i was welding with about 2" of wire hanging out the front.
With it tacked together ill drill and tap some M8 holes to add clamping force and then grind it apart, bolt it back together and MIG it all up.
Rolling along nicely :)
After some consideration I think probably the Mazda MPV rotors will be a better option. For one it doesnt mean that i have a monstrosity of a bracket, instead i have something much flatter, as so:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29685-1/IMG_1015_s.jpg
Note that the big chunk of 12mm steel is only there so i can gauge where that flat plate is sitting. Its acting as an impromptu flat plane as i didnt have enough hands to hold the ruler and camera and a flat plane.
Secondly, it allows me to use the other set of Simmons V4s that i have had around the garage for a while, as they are +20s, and with a 15mm bolton spacer it brings them back to ideal offset and therefore scrub radius (stock/ideal is 0ish offset).
As so:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29691-1/IMG_1017_s.jpg
Thirdly i wont be cooking the balljoint as much as i have been previously with the disc so close to the ball joint. 4 ball joints in 3 years is probably too much.
Therefore i needed to redrill the MPV discs to 4x114.3, which could be a pain, but here is a simple way to do it.
Firstly machine down a chunk of metal (2011 in my case) to the outside diameter of the new disc, and then the old disc, in my case 72 and 60mm respectively:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29697-1/IMG_1019_s.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29700-1/IMG_1020_s.jpg
Should look something like that
Then stack the discs ontop with each one being a tight fit with the location ring as so:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29703-1/IMG_1021_s.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29706-1/IMG_1022_s.jpg
Finally, after lining up two of the holes (and using something to dowel them, not pictured here) use a transfer punch of the correct size to mark the disc below:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29709-1/IMG_1023_s.jpg
Then all you have to do is drill at the markings. Truely a piece of piss.
In addition i picked up some brackets yesterday to allow me to run slightly larger discs at the rear, some S13 discs infact:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29712-1/IMG_1024_s.jpg
Going to try and get aroudn to fitting the diff gears tonight. Only problem is finding marking paste.
So tonight and over the weekend i did a bit of work on the MPV conversion.
First however, i did some work for BigPerm on his Cressida stuff:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29815-1/IMG_1063_s.jpg
Machining out tophats, oil seal rings into coilover sleeves, making little alu spacers and soon to machine his hubs down. Lots of fiddly things.
Inspired by that however i swiss cheesed the traction brackets:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29818-1/IMG_1064_s.jpg
So they are ready to weld on and then be trimmed to size.
And then setup the brake upgrade with the MPV discs:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29821-1/IMG_1065_s.jpg
Uses the stock RA28/40 brake caliper adaptor:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29824-1/IMG_1066_s.jpg
Which ill have to weld a 5mm plate to the inside of to drill and tap (along with a 3mm plate on the outside for extra tapping)
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29827-1/IMG_1067_s.jpg
Coming together nicely, i would have welded it tonight, but i had shorts and a tshirt on and didnt want to make noise for the neighbours any more than i already had.
Gammaboy
02-02-10, 08:00 AM
Nay, rooted like proper rooted. Its no longer straight. NFI how it happened, but its bowed by 2mm
Lathe + hammer = fixed?
Nah, just bought a new one, this one was pretty old.
That still looks like a street car. Take it hills thrashing lol.
That still looks like a street car. Take it hills thrashing lol.
You're cooked
morerevsm3
02-02-10, 04:08 PM
is it going to be ready for twilight meeting on 27th?
Bah, i wish. Even if it is i doubt ill be ready, first medical appointment i could get was the 23rd.
That said i got a little bit of work done on it tonight. Spent about 30mins welding before i ran out of gas :(
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29833-1/IMG_1069_s.jpg
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29836-1/IMG_1070_s.jpg
Welded on the traction brackets. Still need to be reinforced and then profiled nicely.
Also welded plates to the brake caliper mount, so i can drill and tap them. Ill be welding another pair of 5mm plates to this side that you can see here for extra tapping distance.
One nice thing about having two cars to work on is that there is never a dull moment when you have nothing to do. So before setting about dismantling my 2JZ i welded up the caliper brackets, and after disassembly i drilled and tapped them. As such i now have a complete brake setup as so:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29842-2/IMG_1072_s.jpg
You can see here that it still uses the stock caliper bracket, with 5mm welded to the back side for spacing, and 3mm to the front for extra tapping depth:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29845-2/IMG_1073_s.jpg
Big thanks goes to Joel (TurboRA28) for his idea of using the stock bracket redrilled to suit.
And finally here it is all together with the RCA as i was still a little concerned that it might foul.
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29854-2/IMG_1076_s.jpg
I also welded and gussetted the traction brackets, so they just need to be ground back and they are ready to go too.
Tonight or tomorrow will be on the lathe setting up a bunch of spacer rings for the brake conversions.
Bah, i wish. Even if it is i doubt ill be ready, first medical appointment i could get was the 23rd.
Been keeping an eye on this brake build. Great to see the change in mounts for the brakes. Well done!
You going for CAMS licence? i.e. Medical? Planning on racing? Which category?
I was racing in 3J, IPRA. But after i bought the house in 2007 i stopped racing for a bit to recover financially. That along with getting married and then being in Tanzania at this time last year sort of slowed down anything to do with racing for a couple of years.
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