View Full Version : Slight crack in sump. Temporary fix?
08-08-10, 10:21 PM
Ok, so It seams I have a slight crack in my sump. So small, that I have a pool of oil around the size of my hand on the floor when the car is left overnight.
Can anyone recommend me anything that I can use as a temp fix for this until I can find a replacement sump? Some glue or something that can cope with reasonable heat?
08-08-10, 11:09 PM
used that stuff for welsh plugs on a mates engine, was just a station shitter that he didnt want to spend money on fixing
09-08-10, 09:02 AM
yeah jb weld or equivalent products like devcon, quicksteel etc etc
need to drain the oil and thouroughly degrease and clean the area for an effective repair however, make sure you rough it up a bit for better adhesion.
prep it properly and you will have success.
did this on a semi/truck once, when a sump was over 600bucks not including fitting and stuck in the middle of no where. the driver told me it was still running 3 months later without a leak. (think it got sold after that - not because of the sump but it was due for upgrade anyway)
i think from memory that thing had over 30l of oil in it, haha.
seen guys use the same shit on cracked engine blocks also with success.
usually sumps on a motor vehicle you just change them because they aren't that expensive or hard to change anyway.
it should only ever be used or considered as a temporary repair unless it's an old shitbox not worth the coin.
the main issue is getting the area clean... by the time you spend that amount of effort (probably involving removing it) you may as well have it welded properly, or wait til you find a replacement....
09-08-10, 03:08 PM
Cheers guys for the responses.
RB30, did you use jb weld for your truck application?
Shifty, the hard bit is finding a replacement sump. And I kinda want to use the car this weekend so I might have to do a temp fix. Preping shouldbe be a huge issue. I assume using some rough sandpaper to rough up the area is fine?
09-08-10, 03:14 PM
I cracked my E30 sump - this was a flat bottom which made it easy. I used a devcon style product, but was called 'belzona' and was borrowed by a mate from work. Is used to repair eroded metal from marine stuff and is machinable. Was one of these http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx
But JB should do the job.
I dumped the oil, then degreased well, then when it was pretty dry, I sprayed it with some contact cleaner to get rid of any last oil or water. smeared the goo on the back of a piece of 6" square ally then whacked it on and let it set.
Was like that for 6 months before I pulled it and replaced it. Had no issues
biggest issue is contaminants.
i still say your best option is to jack the motor up, drop the sump, degrease/wash and take to someone to weld.. then you have a permanent fix and no need to track down another sump.
but, as others have said there are plenty of fixes out there as long as you follow the 'destructions' properly.
09-08-10, 05:55 PM
it wasn't jb weld, but it was one of those type products from local auto pro, they all seem to be relatively good (i've used a few different brands not, all on slightly different apps, so it's hard to compare them all against each other, the secret is in the prep work.
only time i went out of my way to use jb weld (genuine brand and product) was on a corroded engine block between chamber and water gallery, really wanted the high temp being so close to the cylinder and fire ring.
jb has a higher temp rating, but for a sump it wouldn't really be required over the other products.
just read the back of the products for applications and temp ratings etc, usually most stores will have a couple of different brands, if you want devcon brand you will probably need to go to a bearing shop but as i say the normal brands that the car stores have will do the job if you clean and prep it properly.
I've recently used some JB weld to fit a modified oil drain into a block. Fuck me, its stronger than the alloy it was attached to....
geez it works well!
09-08-10, 06:38 PM
Any idea if this stuff will be a bitch to remove if/when I weld it? It sounds like I could avoid welding it all together if this works as good as its reputation suggests.
na its not too hard to scrape off, and it sands easily too
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