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RotorBoy
27-12-10, 03:02 PM
Me and a mate started this before the $1300 challenge was thought of, but it fits right into the demographic.


Its a Multipoint EA with a 3sp Auto behind it.

So far we have modified the original exhaust manifold by adding 2x 90 steam pipe bends and a flange.

Turbo is a switzer off a unknown truck. has a T6 housing and the front is a 66mm wheel, Your typical big rear small front diesel turbo.

Have installed 300cc injectors in-place of the original 190cc ones. the plan is to have the factory ecu run it on E85 and the extra fuel required simply comes from the bigger injectors..

Have not completely decided on how the on boost fueling wil be taken care of.
If a rising rate FPR and the bigger injectors alone can compensate for the boost then that will be it. If not we will have some extra injectors plumbed into the intake and switch them on with hobbs pressure switches. I was thinking i could pulse them with the negative triger of the coil.

I am realy not sure if the rear housing is to big. and when it will actually come onto boost. If this is a problem then im sure some gas will fix it.

I am having trouble uploading Pictures.. will try after i post this.

RotorBoy
27-12-10, 03:05 PM
The original exit on the manifold will be used for the wastegate (if we even need one)

Jim
27-12-10, 03:08 PM
heh worthy :D
what are you doing with the ECU?

RotorBoy
27-12-10, 03:12 PM
Not really sure.. we were planning on getting it going with the factory ecu, apparently the ecu and map are good up untill 10psi... Will find out over the next couple of weeks when it gets its first drive.

BigMuz
27-12-10, 03:14 PM
That's gonna be pretty good!

RotorBoy
27-12-10, 05:16 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U59ReblFHn0

ALLMTR
27-12-10, 06:01 PM
Wahoo, Ford is now represented!!!

EvilChief
27-12-10, 06:15 PM
lol ... i like the "it goy way too much fuel" comment

15UZU
28-12-10, 01:16 AM
needs a bigger turbo ;)

OKE020
28-12-10, 08:18 AM
Ha ha good stuff

Ben.
28-12-10, 08:46 AM
providing cost of tools isnt included in the challenge, you can go bigger on the injectors and just remap the factory comp. you need a $10 eeprom chip, a ~$30 socket for the eeprom, and a eprom burner (can be a bit pricey, but may not be included in the challenege price), most of the software can be had for free too.

RotorBoy
28-12-10, 10:47 AM
Will modifying The eprom allow me to put a 3bar map sensor on it? Can u create tables or just modify the existing ones?

Dansedgli
28-12-10, 04:12 PM
Dont think you can upgrade the map sensor but some guys have just found out how to run more than 9psi on the E series with a J3 chip.

These arent $10 but what I have in my AU. I think they like to use an EL ecu too which just plugs in.

http://www.tiperformance.com.au/products.html

RotorBoy
28-12-10, 05:08 PM
The j3 is to advanced for this project :) and the cash is better spent on a n20 kit.

I am going to try bleed off the map pressure line to 9psi and then take care of the extra fuel with few extra inectors.

It's going to be rough and blow huge black clouds :)

Dansedgli
28-12-10, 05:18 PM
You should be able to run a 13 with only 9psi anyway if you can spool the turbo before leaving the line. Ive done a 13.6 with a stock auto EB on 10psi with a gt35r.

RotorBoy
28-12-10, 05:36 PM
How much boost were you able to build on the converter? I'm doubting I will be able to get it to launch on boost with this turbo.

Any one have any experience with a rear housing this big on a 4l?

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

briney
28-12-10, 05:39 PM
does it have a divided exhaust housing ? just run everything through one side and blank the other ?

Dansedgli
28-12-10, 05:44 PM
How much boost were you able to build on the converter? I'm doubting I will be able to get it to launch on boost with this turbo.

None lol

I was running 2.2 second 60 footers :P

RotorBoy
28-12-10, 06:31 PM
The s4 rx7's blocked one with a actuator. Way to much trouble to make up a actuator and having it blocked for the whole pass would be to much of a restriction.

What had you done to the eb to support the turbo? Just a fpr?

Dansedgli
28-12-10, 06:34 PM
Nah it had a wolf ECU and 550cc injectors. Stock reg and pump.

Stock auto with an electronic shift kit and stock motor. 300,000kms on the lot.

2JZR31
29-12-10, 03:36 PM
I heartily approve of this project. Definitely nothing to lynch mob on this. I hope you can use the stock ECU with bodgy trickery. How did you do the oil lines?

SkidFace
29-12-10, 03:42 PM
Sweet I was hoping a boosted falcon would enter the competition at some point.

RotorBoy
29-12-10, 04:01 PM
Ive T'd into the oil pressure switch feed and have run some rubber hose to the cut down original turbo oil feed.

And the return i used a steped drill bit on the oil sump and threaded a brass fitting into the sump. Some heater hose was used for the return line.

I have a jerry can full of E85 and if all goes well it should get its first drive tonight :w:

It wont be running an intercooler. For the price of a cooler/clamps/silicone and pipe i can get some water injection working on it. and the hobbs switches for the extra injectors will trigger the water pump.

2JZR31
29-12-10, 04:16 PM
Ive T'd into the oil pressure switch feed and have run some rubber hose to the cut down original turbo oil feed.

And the return i used a steped drill bit on the oil sump and threaded a brass fitting into the sump. Some heater hose was used for the return line.

I have a jerry can full of E85 and if all goes well it should get its first drive tonight :w:

It wont be running an intercooler. For the price of a cooler/clamps/silicone and pipe i can get some water injection working on it. and the hobbs switches for the extra injectors will trigger the water pump.

Sweet. This is exactly to sort of thing I had in mind when I started the thread.

Sketchy
29-12-10, 08:42 PM
Put some proper oil hose on the turbo return line otherwise the fucker will melt and catch on fire real quick. Might cost you ten bucks or so but it will be worth it guaranteed.

2JZR31
29-12-10, 09:20 PM
True dat. Heater hose swells up and turns to jelly with oil.

RotorBoy
29-12-10, 09:38 PM
I never expected the car to outlast the hose haha. If it holds together after getting the "tune" right then it will be the first thing on my list to change. I don't want to oil the track down or my tyres!

Ben.
30-12-10, 08:51 AM
did you pull the sump off the car to drill it or just drain the oil after you were done?

RotorBoy
30-12-10, 08:59 AM
Just drained the oil.

did not realy care about this engine originaly as I have a low km AU engine that we thought would be better to use but it looks like the bottom end is tougher on the EA.

Supercrown
30-12-10, 09:06 AM
does it have a divided exhaust housing ? just run everything through one side and blank the other ?

Spot on.

Do this.

Given the size of the housing, you won't drop much (if any) top end, and the area under the powercurve will be muuuch bigger. Don't stress about the restriction - it'll work a treat.

a bit of 3-4mm plate an 30 mins will get it done.

(I have done this on my TD42 patrol and it makes maore power everywhere actually)

RotorBoy
30-12-10, 09:21 AM
Spot on.

Do this.

Given the size of the housing, you won't drop much (if any) top end, and the area under the powercurve will be muuuch bigger. Don't stress about the restriction - it'll work a treat.

a bit of 3-4mm plate an 30 mins will get it done.

(I have done this on my TD42 patrol and it makes maore power everywhere actually)

sweet!

i will make something up when i make the dump pipe.

How much of a difference did you notice?

Supercrown
30-12-10, 10:21 PM
It dropped spool by 700rpm (1900 to 1200)

One thought I had regarding fuelling - perhaps try a pressure triggered NOS fogger nozzle?

Cheap, easily adjustable, etc, etc??

ALLMTR
31-12-10, 08:37 AM
Looks like youve got a good start on the field. I reckon a Ford six is a great choice for this challenge

OKE020
31-12-10, 09:28 AM
Did you test drive this yet?

RotorBoy
31-12-10, 10:01 AM
Supercrown: Thats a huge improvement, will surely help.
And cheers brinky for the idea!

OKE020 : Nah no drive yet:( me and my mate keep missing eachother but we have both kept the 2nd Jan free for a EA day.

I hope it runs on the E85. the fuel injectors are 63% larger than factory so they will more than compensate for the extra needed.

Will i need to play around with the timing to start it on E85?

OKE020
31-12-10, 12:47 PM
nope should be right, i found i had to add 30% fuel from pump to e85 to get mine to idle on a pump fuel map. This is going to be hell rich at idle, maybe just put an adjustable fpr on it and drop some pressure

10sec rx7
31-12-10, 12:51 PM
you will find at the low pluse widths the larger injectors wont flow that much more fuel, so you might be right.. otherwise you might have to do as scott says and lower the pressure a little

RotorBoy
31-12-10, 01:05 PM
If you listen to the video you can hear that its running lumpy/rough. So its definitely overfueling because of the larger injectors. I had also crimped the fuel feed line to try limit The fuel.

The 10:1 rising rate regulators must have an adjustable base pressure.

When I get the exhaust on ill tap the wideband into it and see where its at.

What is a good afr to aim for while under load?

Dale I know you have said the lm2 is no good for checking the mixtures with e85 but its all I have.

nitrane
31-12-10, 01:12 PM
Bigger injectors and relying on the boost to take care of the mixtures... love it!

10sec rx7
31-12-10, 02:12 PM
If you listen to the video you can hear that its running lumpy/rough. So its definitely overfueling because of the larger injectors. I had also crimped the fuel feed line to try limit The fuel.

The 10:1 rising rate regulators must have an adjustable base pressure.

When I get the exhaust on ill tap the wideband into it and see where its at.

What is a good afr to aim for while under load?

Dale I know you have said the lm2 is no good for checking the mixtures with e85 but its all I have.

at 10psi go for something like 12:1 that wont hurt anything and you should be able to get there with the reg.. maybe try a black malpassi they are 2:1 ie raise the fuel pressure 2psi for every 1psi of boost so you can run low pressure off boost so it drives ok etc

RotorBoy
31-12-10, 05:50 PM
Tied to drive it this arvo. First started flushing out all the crappy 1 year old 91ULP out of it. got to the point where it was just blowing air then fuel.

Filled her up with E85, Tried to purge the rest of the crap fuel out of the lines and oil starts spraying all over the place!!!

It blew the turbo oil feed off the T peice, not because the hose was shit but because the clamp was not done up properly.

Called it quits, its NYE and there is booze to drink.

anyway here are some pics from todays fail.

ALLMTR
02-01-11, 02:09 AM
You didnt mention that it was an S pack, you classy devil

ed40
07-01-11, 06:41 PM
Love the build mate..
I ran my car without any intercooling for a long time.. even managed to peel off a 13.2 down the 1/4. I wouldnt bother about water injection to be honest!

ALLMTR
07-01-11, 07:14 PM
What were the specs, ed40?

Tils
07-01-11, 07:59 PM
Could've gone the anti lag route...

Greg Rust
12-01-11, 04:08 PM
That oil hose looks like High pressure LPG hose? It should actually go ok for a bit as it has decent internal wire braid but will eventually swell.

Love the ghetto spec Falcan!!

RotorBoy
13-01-11, 08:44 AM
That's exactly what it is.. the high pressure hose will outlive the car, no doubt.

ALLMTR
15-01-11, 12:19 PM
Fixed the oil line yet?

RotorBoy
15-01-11, 02:24 PM
Havent touched it

Jim
15-01-11, 02:53 PM
I've found cheap cans of oven cleaner make the engine bay look a million bucks and it's piss easy to do.

RotorBoy
18-01-11, 09:55 PM
Oven cleaner looks to have worked a treat on yours! Not to harsh on the rubbers?

Jim
19-01-11, 04:07 AM
Doesn't seem to be! I used the non caustic stuff. The caustic stuff is harsh on alloy

Greg Rust
19-01-11, 09:27 AM
Hey maybe piss off the hose clamps on the LPG hose and get some reusable fittings, fittings should only be about $25 and won't blow off as the hose clamp isn't really going to be able to provide enough force from the worn drive around the hose tail?

Just a thought

RotorBoy
19-01-11, 10:46 AM
Good idea, n with broomy offering the hookups it will work out cheap enough.

RotorBoy
21-01-11, 09:00 PM
Need some advise on what stall to run. A 2500 or 4000 rpm one. These are the two only options because all I've read so far is about the sigma converters going into these autos.

Is 4000 to big for something that will only spin to 5500?
Will it be to much for the stock auto to launch this high?

ALLMTR
21-01-11, 09:11 PM
2500 stall IMO

13.8

RotorBoy
21-01-11, 09:30 PM
I don't know jack about stalls, is your opinion based on the launch only or how it will behave during the run?

ALLMTR
21-01-11, 09:36 PM
The "powerband" and rev limit of a long stroke Ford motor

ed40
22-01-11, 12:08 PM
i'd go 2500..
try to get a t5 for fuck all? If you are just trying to get into 13's a manual will be much quicker imo.

RotorBoy
23-01-11, 10:25 PM
Will stick with the autos have a au 4sp waiting to go in once this one shit itself.

Mate has a 5speed out of a ba xr8 with a smashed bellhousing from a flywheel explosion, could it be adapted to the 6cyl?

nitrane
24-01-11, 02:33 PM
Will stick with the autos have a au 4sp waiting to go in once this one shit itself.

Mate has a 5speed out of a ba xr8 with a smashed bellhousing from a flywheel explosion, could it be adapted to the 6cyl?

Not really no.

aaron_hogan
24-01-11, 04:17 PM
To elaborate on Nitrane's reply...

Not really within the $1300 budget, no.

A mate of mine bought a BA xr6t 5 speed to adapt to an EL motor retrofitted into an XF (he may be a member here? Shaun?). Anyway lotsa frigging around and lotsa expense.

I've been in EA turbo's with auto's merely shift-kitted and they've held up to a fair amount of abuse.

nitrane
24-01-11, 04:23 PM
The T5Z 5 speed in the BA MK1 Turbos is a different box, and alot easier to run than the TR-3650's used in the BA MK1 XR8s.

3650's have integrated bellhousings etc. and would be a complete pain in the ass to modify for a EA.

The only other Aussie car that used these boxes were the T3 TE50 and TS50s which had a 'bolt on' front extension which allowed the direct swap for a T5. But these things are rare and expensive, took me years to find mine and every bastard keeps trying to buy it off me.

RotorBoy
28-02-11, 01:04 PM
So we managed to get the exhaust system and the intake piping done yesterday.

With the positioning of the turbo and intake pipe a sweed cut was nessasary to close the bonnet.

Here are some pics

nitrane
28-02-11, 01:05 PM
thats awesome!

turboghia
28-02-11, 01:39 PM
i can get my hands on a jim mock 3000 stall converter if your interested i mate is seloling due to going to a c4 setup

RotorBoy
28-02-11, 01:52 PM
Find out what he wants for it and let me know.

decision will be based on price.

turboghia
28-02-11, 01:58 PM
ok txt sent will reply when i hear anything

turboghia
28-02-11, 02:01 PM
sorry it got sold already .

RotorBoy
28-02-11, 02:09 PM
ahh well, looks like ill b looking for sigmas @ the wreckers.

nitrane
28-02-11, 02:10 PM
Would be quicker with a 5 speed :D

turboghia
28-02-11, 02:11 PM
tci do them for $300 for 2800 one there in western syd

RotorBoy
28-02-11, 03:34 PM
Would be quicker with a 5 speed :D

Can i borow yours? :sandyvag:

Ben.
28-02-11, 04:49 PM
how much further will a sigma stall take you?

RotorBoy
28-02-11, 05:47 PM
a 2.6l sigma stall will b 2500
a 2.0l sigma stall will b 4000


note that i dont know if this actually works its just somethin ive read on here somewhere

2JZR31
28-02-11, 05:55 PM
Are you guys saying you can fit a sigma converter to a falcon and it just bolts up and away you go? This car is looking pretty awesome. Good work.

RotorBoy
28-02-11, 06:08 PM
The sigma auto is a BW35 unit and the EA is a bw51 so i hope they swap over...

a single post from 6 years ago on the australian ford forums mentions you can do it just by re-drilling the flex plate holes.

Ben.
28-02-11, 06:22 PM
sounds dangerous, you wanna have it balanced properly...

2jzr31, same deal with gemini convertors into traumatics. you put a gem convertor behind a 308 and its like a 2800 stall supposedly lol

blownhemi
28-02-11, 06:37 PM
Back in the day we used to put small block converters behind big blocks for a bit of cheap hi-stall action.

Dunno if a converter from a BW35 is going to fit a BW51 though. I'd get a second opinion.

RotorBoy
03-03-11, 08:42 AM
Recieved a Sard Rising Rate FPR for the beast today, thanks to fritzz for sending it my way.
Going to VPW on saturday to pick up a propper fitting for the oil feed, thanks to Broomy for the hookup.

Will definately be driving this on the weekend. Hope it dosent blow up. Also hope it actually makes boost at a reasonable RPM.

I was thinking about how i would lineup the convertor to the flexplate if i needed to drill out some new mounting holes.

What if i sat the convertor onto the auto, mounted the auto in the car, and through the inspection cover i marked one of the holes that need to be made.
Remove the auto make the hole, refit the auto bolt the convertot to the single point. Spin it round mark the other holes remove the auto make the other holes and then put it all together. Sound safe enough?

<---cop
03-03-11, 08:55 AM
Last time I got a converter restalled it cost $150.

Maybe ring around and see if anyone can restall your stock converter?
Less hassles.

aaron_hogan
03-03-11, 03:27 PM
I would start by ensuring the snout on the back of the convertor is the same as the spigot on the EA crank. If so you are halfway home. If its smaller, lathe up a ring to seat it centrally. If its bigger (unlikely) go no further.

Then measure the depth of both convertors to ensure you have positive engagement in the pump. If not, possible to machine the adaptor ring to push it deeper into the housing. But then you need deeper legs on the back of the convertor too. That would just warrant a trip to get a proper convertor done.

I can't recall if this is any off-set to the stock falcon flex plate, but if there is you could bolt it on backward, push the convertor into the crank, and mark the holes this way. Re-install the flex right way around. The holes need not be perfect if the convertor mounts snugly in the crank.

HTH.

btw: you shouldn't re-use dirty old convertors from one auto to the next without a flush apparently.

Sketchy
03-03-11, 04:22 PM
I love the epic bodge in cutting the bonnet but surely it would have been easier to just use two silicone elbows and snake the pipework round the front of the rocker cover and under the bonnet?

Less hassles from the po po that way. Top work either way :)

Nollsy
03-03-11, 04:44 PM
but surely it would have been easier to just use two silicone elbows and snake the pipework round the front of the rocker cover and under the bonnet?

Personally, I think cutting a bonnet would be far easier. Grinder + cut = done :)

RotorBoy
03-03-11, 06:53 PM
Thanks for the detailed info Aaron, will check out the measurements when I get a chance to go to he wreckers.

It would have been more street friendly to run the piping another way but I think the cut adds to the cheapness of the project. Plus its a good laugh

MRMOPARMAN
03-03-11, 08:12 PM
just paint the pipe body colour... no one will notice unless they have a close look

Tils
03-03-11, 08:23 PM
VL walkie style bonnet scoop

RotorBoy
03-03-11, 09:17 PM
The paint idea will defiantly be done once the car starts getting driven on the street.

RotorBoy
05-03-11, 06:34 PM
Quick update.

Got the beast driving today.
Need to look at the afr and timing as its very doughy off boost.

There is no doubt that we will need a stall and some gas because its ridiculously laggy. Starts making positive pressure by 2500-3000 and builds about 10psi at 4500. Starts to move its ugly add after 4000.
We got a little excited and hit fuel/boost cut at about 4700!

Will post videos and pictures when I get onto my pc.

buzz
05-03-11, 08:20 PM
Boosty - the lag monster!

Good that it is up and running.

SausageFingers
05-03-11, 08:24 PM
I fucken LOVE the cut bonnet.

This is prob my fav entry.

RotorBoy
05-03-11, 09:23 PM
Thanks everyone!

I want to block one of the entries into the rear housing to help it spin up a little earlier but im not sure if it will become a restriction when we install the gas. Maybe a removable blanking plate so we can test the difference at the track. If it could spin to 7000rmp then i could probably live with it like this, but now your forced to pull a gear as soon as the fun begins.

All the videos from today turned out choppy, blame the stock rom on my desirehd. Will do my best to get some working fotage of it tomorrow.

Now that its actually running and driving there are a few things i need to sort out before we start trashing it.

Water injection will need to be setup and AIT probe fixed somewhere - a low pressure system is appealing because of the cheap factor but i just dont understand how it could achieve a decent mist compared to a high pressure pump system. Also does anyone have any nozzle hookups they want to share or any for sale?

Weld in O2 sensor bung - is it fine if its less than 30cm from the exhaust housing? or will the heat kill it. 12.1afr at 10psi was said to be safe earlier, now with stoich on E85 being 9.7 do i try aim for 7.1 on the meter or do you set a different range and it reads like it would for ULP? i have a innovate LM2

Mount the wastegate - we cut the original "down pipe" off the standard exhaust bashed it flat and welded it shut, the wastegate will be plumbed off that. The spring it has is for 14psi but the ecu cuts fuel at 10PSI would a bleed valve boost controler work to regulate the MAP signal to 10psi max without altering all the readings below 10psi?

Nitrous and E85 - The jets in the kit would be set to inject a certain amount of fuel vs nitrous will i need to put in a 50hp fuel jet with a 25hp n20 jet to compensate for the e85? Ive never played with or even been in a car with gas so im clueless to how the fuel and n20 jetting works.

To many questions in one post i think!!

blownhemi
05-03-11, 09:24 PM
Quick update.

Got the beast driving today.
Need to look at the afr and timing as its very doughy off boost.

There is no doubt that we will need a stall and some gas because its ridiculously laggy. Starts making positive pressure by 2500-3000 and builds about 10psi at 4500. Starts to move its ugly add after 4000.
We got a little excited and hit fuel/boost cut at about 4700!

Will post videos and pictures when I get onto my pc.

That's one of the reasons i decided to not go turbo with mine, because of boost lag. Converters cost money, but they're needed to the get the engines up on boost quickly.

thechuckster
06-03-11, 05:03 AM
WBO2 will cope being 30cm from the ex housing. It's the sensor housing heating up that makes them shutdown or shit themselves - the sensor element will cope with heat (for a while). The LC1 manual had a suggestion for a simple shield.

Can you re-program the LM2 (like the LC1 controller) for different fuels? With my LC1, the config software let you select a stoich for different fuels, then program the output(s) to suit. Rather than remember a new AFR range (and fwiw, LM2 ranges from 7.35 to 22.39), change the display to Lambda 0.5-1.5 and put in the stoich AFR for E85. When on boost, keep it below 0.75 to be safe.

RotorBoy
06-03-11, 08:22 AM
turbohemi - if i had of used a turbo with a better suited rear housing lag wouldent have been am issue.

thechuckster - yes you can reset the stoich level, problem solved.

blownhemi
06-03-11, 02:49 PM
turbohemi - if i had of used a turbo with a better suited rear housing lag wouldent have been am issue.

thechuckster - yes you can reset the stoich level, problem solved.

Any turbo better suited would have blown the budget though, best turbo for the job is the factory xR6 turbo, but getting one for the right dollars would have been near impossible.

With my VN V6 I had a tiny .63 housing on a GT30R and still had trouble getting the right boost at the line with a 3000rpm converter. With the drags the startline is everything, and getting it right on the cheap is always going to be a big ask. At least with nitrous I'm not going to have that issue.

RotorBoy
06-03-11, 06:26 PM
I'm going to work out the budget and post it up when I do, roughly calculating our costs so far I'm sure we will b able to fit a sniper kit in as the last purchase.

blownhemi
06-03-11, 06:33 PM
I'm going to work out the budget and post it up when I do, roughly calculating our costs so far I'm sure we will b able to fit a sniper kit in as the last purchase.

:eek: That'll get it on boost. :)

Asteroid
06-03-11, 06:40 PM
I so hope this car holds together, sounds like it'll be running 12s for $1300!

RotorBoy
06-03-11, 06:42 PM
I'm hoping we will be able to switch it off at 4-5psi without breaking a rod or blowing the headgasket. I originally was thinking to shut it off at 1psi but after driving it I feel it would still be laggy.

blownhemi
06-03-11, 06:54 PM
I'm hoping we will be able to switch it off at 4-5psi without breaking a rod or blowing the headgasket. I originally was thinking to shut it off at 1psi but after driving it I feel it would still be laggy.


If you're going to have it deactivated by a pressure switch I'd go about 3-4psi below fullboost. Just make sure you don't have the pressur bleed off in the top end though, you don't want it activating again in the top end. :)

Mr Parts
06-03-11, 07:22 PM
If you're going to have it deactivated by a pressure switch I'd go about 3-4psi below fullboost. Just make sure you don't have the pressur bleed off in the top end though, you don't want it activating again in the top end. :)

if you buy a full kit it will come with an 'on' switch to turn everything 'on', and then a throttle switch which will activate the solenoids when the throttle reaches that position.

add a momentary switch into the mix, after the throttle switch (before the relay), and you will be easily able to arm and dissarm the nitrous manually just by looking at the boost gauge and letting go of the button, so kit will only inject nitrous when flick switch is 'on', throttle is open, and momentary switch is pressed.

RotorBoy
06-03-11, 07:26 PM
A change over relay and a hobby switch will save the engine from any excited fingers.

blownhemi
06-03-11, 08:14 PM
A change over relay and a hobby switch will save the engine from any excited fingers.

I agree Hobbs switch is definitely the way to go. When your racing there's not alot of time for flicking switches.

RotorBoy
07-03-11, 08:30 AM
Crap video of what it sounds like.

Edit* embedding a video is to hard

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiNxiSrm1AI

blownhemi
07-03-11, 08:53 AM
Embedding video is easy, hit the youtube button and drop the video
ID (I just add the raw video ID number) in there.

Like so.

RiNxiSrm1AI

RotorBoy
07-03-11, 08:55 AM
ah ha! i was including the whole url then i tried it with everything past the first /..

tnx for the tip

RotorBoy
13-03-11, 10:21 AM
.

blownhemi
13-03-11, 12:12 PM
Gas it up Bro'

It's going to be bloody fast or an epic failure.

Ben.
13-03-11, 09:51 PM
dont configure your wideband or whatever. leave it on the scale it is and just aim for 12:1.

RotorBoy
23-03-11, 10:22 AM
Recieved some parts in the mail yesterday, will be fitting them up tonight.

Going to try use a BMW windscreen washer pump to run the water injection due to $1300 budget constraints. I am also going to try compounding the pressure by pressurising the water container pre pump.

The nozzile i got is a 600ml/min

Ben. Tonight will be the fisrt time i get the WBo2 on so ill leave it as is to start with and see what it gives me.

RotorBoy
23-03-11, 09:19 PM
Went for a drive this arvo. Car was running shit and lean.
Pretty sure its just low on fuel, will take it for another squirt on Friday once we get some juice.

Also thinking we might use n20 foggers for the extra fueling. Going to measure how much fuel the different jetting spits out over a min and see if they are suitable.

15UZU
23-03-11, 10:25 PM
rotorboy if you where in brisbane i could have loaned you my T51R-SPL and 4litre ford manifold to suit,would be just about right for 13`s. its back in the shed now waiting to be sold or bolted onto something crazy later.

i sold the EA turbo project last weekend,lost interest in it.

blownhemi
18-04-11, 11:25 AM
So how's this going?

ALLMTR
02-05-11, 11:42 PM
Anything?

blownhemi
24-05-11, 11:01 AM
What happened with this? I thought it was almost finished.

RotorBoy
16-05-12, 08:39 AM
We have ha some free time to play with this'd lately....

The engine ended up lifting the head because we were being stupid giving it a beating while running lean, so this weekend the au engine we scored is going in.
I can also confirm that the sigma convertors do not work as tthe input shafts are a duferent size to the fire units.

RotorBoy
16-05-12, 05:52 PM
A couple of pics showing the EA + sigma converter, the empty bay and the au engine with the EA accessories on it.. just need to change crank pulley

vet 180
17-05-12, 01:05 AM
Maybe try merging manifold into 1 scroll on the housing and then run a cheap shitty ebay wastegate set at very low boost to activate the second scroll once your running. Might fit in you budget if nos does not?

RotorBoy
17-05-12, 05:49 PM
Nah won't bother with anything like that...
I'll run it as is to.see how it goes. Im sure the gas will.help get it up a little earlier..

Of anything ill end up making a decent exhaust manifold for it.

vet 180
18-05-12, 04:09 AM
Nah won't bother with anything like that...
I'll run it as is to.see how it goes. Im sure the gas will.help get it up a little earlier..

Of anything ill end up making a decent exhaust manifold for it.

ah ok. just block one side off then. being a t6 and low boost 1 side should flow just fine