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aaron_hogan
03-01-11, 07:12 AM
This competition is just the shot in the arm I needed.

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67262287

When i first saw it a couple of weeks back I thought "cool, but I can't be fucked". Even though I had a potential candidate sitting in the driveway doing nothing and a wicked motor to go in it (EA SVO, manual, and a BA 4.0 twin cam). If PF can get behind me and give me the shove in the back I so desperately need I may see this thing come alive, potentially in a future challenge. (maybe we do a One-make challenge?).

Quite separately i scored a cheap Mazda 929 coupe (pretty much identical to the RX4) back in November but only picked it up 30/12/10 due to not getting any time off for yonks. I really bought this to use up all the left over shit that one accumulates over a decade or so when trying to build a really clean rotary (a much better RX4 is in the build). I think back to the multitude of mazda's that I've bought on the cheap, usually because they're in the middle of nowhere and near fucked. There have been some good scores at times (more on that later) but i suffer an affliction that seems to come with owning rotaries: I am a hoarder. Just seems I can't chuck anything out if its even remotely useable.

Hence, coming back from collecting the latest coupe, the plan was just to use up some of the spares, rotorize it, basic clean up without spending money, and flip it for the typical ausrotor drug money prices these things seem to pull. Then pour that cash back into my other RX4/Luce.

Now for a sight unseen car (i just hit the buy-it-now button out of reflex) I really wasn't expecting much. The photos made it look like a complete and utter shit heap. Here she is in all her glory:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....#ht_500wt_1156

But after a fair old road trip (depart Melb 3.30AM arrive Wagga 9.00AM get back home at 5.00PM) and some more time to appreciate its redeeming features I started to think it would clean up "ok". No terminal rust, dings would all be easily repaired, missing/fucked parts I had spare. Just had to get out to the farm to start picking out the replacement parts.

DAY ONE: 1/1/11 INTERIOR and DAMAGE ASSESSMENT.
What a filthy job. The car had been left parked for what I can only guess was a number of years. Quite likely with the window down and no small amount of good old fashioned red Aussie country bulldust through out. The seats were completely fingered. The carpet was wet (my fault I think). So I took it all out and vac'd it. Had to completely rebuild the drivers seat as the donor seat had a broken frame. Pulled original and donor apart to make one good one. Find same fracture point. Out with the mig and 15 mins later I have a repaired frame. 30 mins later I have a new seat. The carpet was out of a perfectly good car (BUZNUT from Maztech) that some moron wrecked out - i scored a good chunk of bits from it for peanuts. So with decent carpet and seats, and with liberal application of armourall, the interior was coming together. I threw a worn out MoMo in there and called it a day. There is a little more to do to get the interior right but its mainly the door trims - completely sunburnt and warped. Buts lets remember this is about ET's not interior detailing.

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/200/img0613k.th.jpg (http://img28.imageshack.us/i/img0613k.jpg/)
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/2663/img0619s.th.jpg (http://img28.imageshack.us/i/img0619s.jpg/)
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/4412/img0618y.th.jpg (http://img156.imageshack.us/i/img0618y.jpg/)

I also had to start stripping the damaged LH guard and bumper. A bit of WD40 on all the nuts and bolts seized after some 36 years of neglect ensured that I got it all undone and only snapped off the one nut at the bottom of the guard (they always seem to do that). About this stage i noticed the damage to the front corner was really minor. A slide pull and hammer/dolly work will set it right. And you never see this under the guard/headlight bucket anyway.

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/8682/img0610f.th.jpg (http://img145.imageshack.us/i/img0610f.jpg/)
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/2778/img0617z.th.jpg (http://img225.imageshack.us/i/img0617z.jpg/)

Called it quits for the day a happy man. Bang for buck I'd used some household cleaning shit, my nouse, and some elbow grease to really lift the appearance of the car from "Shit heap" to "Nugget".


DAY TWO: 2/1/11 MECHANICAL ASSESSMENT and PARTS LISTS
This was the morning I woke up and said to myself "Fuck it, this would be cool as a 13's for $1300 candidate".

I got a burst of motivation and set to work. I pulled the brake master and loosened off the brake lines. I pulled the clutch master. Removed the brittle washer bottle and overflow reservoir. I took a look at the brakes. Squealed like a girl when i found all the redbacks. Thankfully the rear brakes don't look all that old. Apart from pretty suspect flex lines and the leaky master there isn't much to fix. There is however the audible sound of a rooted diff centre or wheel bearings. No worries: I have a cunning plan. Rear suspension is pretty basic and typical stuffed rubber bushes.

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/3688/img0611tx.th.jpg (http://img80.imageshack.us/i/img0611tx.jpg/)
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/6440/img0622hu.th.jpg (http://img834.imageshack.us/i/img0622hu.jpg/)


Front steering is "ok". A little free play in the steering box - I may have a better one. Front suspension needs total overhaul. It all has to come out anyway to change out the piston crossmember for the rotary one. A true backyarder would have just lopped the mounts off with an angle grinder but already have one done.

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/4078/img0629fh.th.jpg (http://img213.imageshack.us/i/img0629fh.jpg/)

Not certain if the 929 coupes have strut inserts like the RX4 but 929 sedans have an open oil-bath. This will not do. Also mazda's are notoriously under-braked. So the smart thing to do is raid the parts bin and swap in some better struts while i'm there. I have been tripping over some struts with koni inserts and volvo brakes for a while so it seems they will do nicely. I went to my box of tricks and pulled out a heap of used but re-useable nolothane bushes.

http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/1851/mazshots060.th.jpg (http://img121.imageshack.us/i/mazshots060.jpg/)

For wheels I was just going to slap on some RX7 series 2 mags. But they're 70km away and I had some 14" challengers with decent, if not ageing, rubber.

Then as the afternoon wore on, much like my longest post EVAR lol, i went into the shed to start pulling out the shit that would kick-start a faster Mazda.

So I have two piles going. The first is all the junk and broken stuff I have removed. The second is all the stuff going into the car. In the interests of transparency I will photo all the gear so the PF lynchmob can assign values as it sees fit and basically scrutineer my efforts as they quickly progress. I will come back to this first post and add the pics and parts lists.

This is a genuine case of slap-together racing. Some of the parts i'll be using certainly have a value but all of them are on hand and genuine orphans, left-overs, "unknowns" or just plain junk. I don't want to raid my *good car* for anything because that's just not in the spirit of the challenge. I've also decided this is an achievable build because its largely a bolt-together project where looks don't count for shit.

In this build i will be assisted by my good mate Geoff [username: Sv_i]. As some of you may know Geoff is building a 929 wagon and we've given each other a helping hand from time to time. We know our way around these cars pretty well and I expect the "roller" to be pretty much done within another day or so of serious effort. The driveline is yet to be determined but will be 13b-something. I have choices and don't want to commit to any one path at this early stage. Needless to say the car will not be powerchipped. Technology will be limited by budget and parts to "old-school". I'm notionally drawing that line at year 2000.

If any other Melb PF crew want to check out the build you can call me and drop by for beers. But what I think I will really need is some hook ups with fabricators and clever cunts. There are a few things I would like to do that may require stuff being welded or machined. I just don't have those sort of connections and i certainly don't have the time (long office hours). But I do have the money and prepared to spend where needed up to the nominated limit.

Finally, after a long time in the rotor scene, this will be the first running and drivable rotor i've owned since 2004! Now there's some motivation that has really got me going unlike anything else.

Flame on cunts.....

<EDITED SO THE SPECS ARE EASILY FOUND>

Looks like my rough set up will be:
RX-929 coupe (guesstimate weigh in around 1100kg)
s4 turbo block - basically stock rebuild - can't "feel" any porting
Haltech E6a fuel and ignition, 12aT primaries.
Garrett TO4e-66 or similar combo with external gate
Water to air cooler
Jatco 3 speed
stock welded 929 24 spline diff with 4.44's
2-link
volvo brake kit
Challengers plus slicks

ALLMTR
03-01-11, 07:38 AM
The "lynchmob" are just pedantic sooky cunts playing for sheep stations who need to shut the fuck up so just value it how you want and build it!

Sketchy
03-01-11, 07:42 AM
Ebay link says item sold so no pics. So post pics cunt :)

Otherwise good stuff, our first rotary entrant!

Purple-Headed Love Truncheon
03-01-11, 07:53 AM
yeah i cant feel the project without pics, its like just listening to porn or something

briney
03-01-11, 11:11 AM
aren't the old style oil filled struts the go for modding to get 90/10s ? it may help your 1/4 times. the seal in them is generally easy to get and cheap.

Paddington
03-01-11, 11:34 AM
I received a text message yesterday telling me that hoges had had a brilliant idea. I thought it was going to be "Im going to get this fucking EA on the road and do 13's" but no, it was this one, which is an even better idea as hoges literally has a shed and farmfull of old japanese and ford shit
Hoges, what about using the diff out of the green wagon? I notice that you have left it sitting outside, it needs some loving, it has the locked centre too. I'll rig up a day this week to have off and we'll smash some more stuff in.

I also suspect that once you get this running, you will get fired up again for the other build*

Don't forget I can get stuff machined up/welded at work if the techie guys are around.

ps gianttomato lives about 10 mins away and he gets stuff knocked up for his projects, he might know peoples?

*aaron has a extremely tidy RX-4 coupe that has sat unloved for ages.
**I drove the wagon today, superawesome, just have to get that lead that the dickhead at autobarn got wrong and put the points into it.
***I know what you are like hoges, make sure you throw the shit pile away and not horde it in your driveway!:rotflol:

Also, had a thought, maybe keep those old monroes in the back, cause if they are soft and shit, like monroes usually are, it'll help launch rather than the firm konis?
Is the auto box coming out of the fucked red RX-7?

<---cop
03-01-11, 12:06 PM
Fuck you for finding this cunt before me :(

Paddington
03-01-11, 01:42 PM
Fuck you for finding this cunt before me :(

hit up aaron for one of his other 929s

or

cheap 929/rx-4 sedan bodyshells are out there, spac has one for sale IIRC.

I'm heading over to aarons now, I suspect I will finding him sitting inside it making whoosh noises or this thing will be 99% done.

Spac
03-01-11, 02:24 PM
Spac's finally went a couple of months ago.

He was so happy that he began to talk in the third person.
$500 and it was a GOOD shell - a bit battered but absolutely rust free and never really pranged.

Despite all the AR talk, they're not worth that much.

thedude
03-01-11, 03:40 PM
I still lust after an RX4 Coupe.

Paddington
03-01-11, 04:34 PM
Spac's finally went a couple of months ago.

He was so happy that he began to talk in the third person.
$500 and it was a GOOD shell - a bit battered but absolutely rust free and never really pranged.

Despite all the AR talk, they're not worth that much.

I'm still surprised that RX-5s never really took off in value. :confused:

Went to aarons, thundercunt was not home and is not answering his phone, so I suspect he is down on the farm under a car ripping off bits or rooting somewhere.

I have pics though (hoges tell me if you want them to come down).

Dashboard is rooted, rest of interior is good, tripped over bits lying around ready to go in. This thing should easily make 13's.

big_pete
03-01-11, 04:43 PM
What are you talkin' about that dash looks mint!

I'm putting my money on this thing so far!

Lobster
03-01-11, 04:44 PM
a bit of armorall and that dash will be sweet

thedude
03-01-11, 04:50 PM
a bit of spak filler and that dash will be sweet
fixed.

MRMOPARMAN
03-01-11, 05:05 PM
a bit of shag pile carpet and that dash will be sweet

fixed.

bernie-rx7
03-01-11, 07:08 PM
second hand 13b turbo?

Jim
03-01-11, 07:22 PM
moon-dash will be the next big thing after rusty bonnets!

OKE020
03-01-11, 07:33 PM
13b turbo draw through webber style?

This will be hard to do on budget with the rotary tax, watching with interest :)

Andrew Bolt
03-01-11, 07:36 PM
Melb northern suburbs showdown! I'm pretty sure you live about 5 minutes down the road from me.

I use the dodgy Asian guy on Grange Rd for all my welding. "You pay cash, come back 10 minute". Leon Mc Keon (the guy must have hated his parents) on Christmas St for engineering/machining.

Captain_Slow
03-01-11, 08:02 PM
I love where this is going.

I also love that you have a whole farm somewhere full of car bits :)

Paddington
03-01-11, 08:23 PM
second hand 13b turbo?


13b turbo draw through webber style?

This will be hard to do on budget with the rotary tax, watching with interest :)

hoges literally has shit piled everywhere from numerous ebay impulse purchases over the years and cars wrecked etc. That is what makes this thing and this idea a winnah, hoges is basically using shit that is lying in his driveway rusting away to death.


Melb northern suburbs showdown! I'm pretty sure you live about 5 minutes down the road from me.

I use the dodgy Asian guy on Grange Rd for all my welding. "You pay cash, come back 10 minute". Leon Mc Keon (the guy must have hated his parents) on Christmas St for engineering/machining.

Go to the end of hoge's street, turn right, a bit of lefty righty and that's your place. With no exhaust, I reckon you will hear this fire up. :rotflol:

Aaron rung me earlier this evening, he was down at the farm harvesting a crop of more old stuff, he has a 'cruiser and trailer full of stuff. I was laughing as I can imagine him literally standing next to the trailer pulling stuff off the ground going "yes, I'll use that, and that too, and that is doing nothing, so that can go on, those wheels and that diff can go in too" etc.

Boxer
03-01-11, 08:26 PM
LOL love the desert-spec dash, looks like Keith Richards face

aaron_hogan
03-01-11, 08:49 PM
I love where this is going.

I also love that you have a whole farm somewhere full of car bits :)

Appreciated. But not by my olds! They're renovating and their nice new feature bay window looks out across the *field of rust* (trademark pending). A re-shuffle and consolidation is on the cards. Not like I'm short on spares. These things are beyond fucked though.
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/492/img0635c.th.jpg (http://img153.imageshack.us/i/img0635c.jpg/)
This one is a pisser. Dad's mate played cat and mouse over this car for nearly 2 years and was full of shit about it in an effort to extort over a grand for it. In the end i got it for nothing because he had to move. On the drive home the bonnet skin, so rusted, actually peeled backwards off the frame. The car had sat in a paddock in Werribee South for a very very long time. Sat with windows down and no air cleaner lid. Carb was full of straw, rat and sheep shit! Amazingly the engine turns and has been salvaged for tear down at a later date.
http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/7605/mazshots055.th.jpg (http://img687.imageshack.us/i/mazshots055.jpg/)
This 1/2 of a green 929 coupe used to get around wearing the number plates "DEEBA". I spotted it by chance still mostly complete and scored it for $100. Raped it hard and chucked the mashed side/front to SimsMetal. As it sits you might notice the 5 stud chasers. Thats the RX5 9" diff. The width is correct but the mounts are all wrong.
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/2245/img0633v.th.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/i/img0633v.jpg/)


Melb northern suburbs showdown! I'm pretty sure you live about 5 minutes down the road from me.

I use the dodgy Asian guy on Grange Rd for all my welding. "You pay cash, come back 10 minute". Leon Mc Keon (the guy must have hated his parents) on Christmas St for engineering/machining.

Yep I'm in Thornbury sort of near Victoria Rd/Darebin Rd area. Thanks heaps for the tips!


13b turbo draw through webber style?

This will be hard to do on budget with the rotary tax, watching with interest

Rotary tax can be avoided. I fly under the radar. Have my own networks/sources. I don't fuck around and put my money where my mouth is. Jump on things quickly and will travel more than 30 mins to get stuff I consider valuable/rare/useful/cheap.

I lost my earlier response to this but basically I can't rule any options in or out at this early stage. I like the though of it but doing it on the $800 left over after purchase of the roller doesn't leave much room. It really comes down to NOT SPENDING.


Went to aarons, thundercunt was not home and is not answering his phone, so I suspect he is down on the farm under a car ripping off bits or rooting somewhere.

I have pics though (hoges tell me if you want them to come down).

Dashboard is rooted, rest of interior is good, tripped over bits lying around ready to go in. This thing should easily make 13's.

Right you were. I was down there raiding bits and assessing what else was useable to get it running, let alone what i have that will see the thing into the 13's.
http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/2134/img0634tb.th.jpg (http://img836.imageshack.us/i/img0634tb.jpg/)

Pics are all good although I have more that show the fucked parts, before and after. The pile of stuff behind the car isn't even the half of it mate. Don't worry about the dash pad. That doesn't make it any faster.

Actually the good thing about this is I don't have to care what it looks like. I forgot the freedom that comes with that attitude to car craft. I'm really loving just smashing it together without the headfuck that usually accompanies being picky or having things fully restored before they go near the car. :yup:

aaron_hogan
03-01-11, 09:42 PM
DAY THREE: 3/1/11 PICKING MY PRIVATE PARTS :rotflol:

First up today after posting here I went out to the shed and found a good RX4 radiator that already had a big ass 16" Davies Craig thermo fan fitted. Pulled out the jack and stands ready to get into the front end. Tie rods are ok but need new boots. Bushes are flogged out.

Then i finished cleaning up all the glass. I had to use a scraper to get years of fly shit and general mankiness off. Clean glass just lifts the whole appearance of this thing. Went through boxes of stainless trim and found a single piece matching the missing one, except about 2 inches too long. So just needs a trim and some decent clips to keep it in place.

Then I sat down and made a list of stuff I could grab from various wrecks out at the farm, hit the road and landed about 1pm, in the peak of the blaring sun and earned a fair old burn for my absent minded sun smarts.

So having identified that the clutch master was fucked and the brake master was also fucked I needed replacements. So i picked them from the absolute worst of the lot...a 929 wagon that was so mechanically neglected by its previous owner the brakes had worn through the pads, through the backing plates to the point that they weren't captive (ie: we couldn't find them!) and the pistons had gone beyond their max travel. Total loss of hydraulic pressure on the front circuit! And the moron was driving the car on a daily basis for YEARS like this. Geoff and I used to see it come and go and the owner confirmed he was driving around with the aid of the handbrake! And to think what would happen if a kid stepped out in front of this car...:knock: Victoria needs annual road worthies to get these shit heaps off the road. Only reason he gave up on it was because the motor developed a knock.
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8119/img0631bs.th.jpg (http://img10.imageshack.us/i/img0631bs.jpg/)

Anyway, the booster was the "big" type and the master itself showed no signs of leaks. All the brake lines were routed differently on this model. If anything they are more compact and run closer to the body of the car in an area where i might need clearance. So it was a natural choice to run with this unit. All will be tested before first drive. I just can't leave safety items to chance.
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/6466/img0632lk.th.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/i/img0632lk.jpg/)

(edit: Just re-read this and it wasn't reading right so has been corrected) The brake system will get a thorough check and upgrade to some better bits ensuring the car will point straight, take bumps and stop as best as I can do with the bits on hand. I'm intending on using the red Koni struts that came with my RX4 since i changed those out to fit the front end from the Green RX4 wagon. And while i haven't done anything with them yet, the front brakes are volvo 4 spotters and unknown vented disks. I might need to get brake lines done and that's a potential spend right there. (Geoff has given me some flex lines for nix, but i might still need the short hard lines re-done.

I pulled the matching challengers from another shitter. Grabbed a bonnet that was butchered with a Hornet scoop (what were people thinking!). Found an ok bumper. Grabbed a LHF guard (needs a little beating and rust repair). Pulled a genuine RX4 crossmember and an RX5 gearbox, some more tail shafts (no idea what length i need). Filled a box with random shit; possible 4.44 locked centre (edit: no joy its a 3.9), bunch of relays all wired up (thermos?), gear shift rubber boot, fuel line, battery cable, nuts and bolts.

To finish off the day i started in on an RX7. I bought this thing a few years back after seeing it sitting in the street in Pascoe Vale. It looked good from the drivers side but had been driven too fast, too furiously and dorifto'd into a kerb (hence two fucked challengers on the back of the 929 nugget). I started in on fixing it up and had built a full new diff and replaced struts in it before realising the rails were bent when she was put on the ground. So I canned fixing it and wrecked it out.
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/7205/img0637u.th.jpg (http://img375.imageshack.us/i/img0637u.jpg/)
On the up side this one has a healthy but largely unknown Selectmaz s4/5 13b running a carby adaptor backed by an overdrive Jatco auto. I just started unplugging and readying the block to come out. Maybe I'll use it maybe I won't. But its time for the 7 to gtfo.
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/1441/img0641qd.th.jpg (http://img843.imageshack.us/i/img0641qd.jpg/)

Also here is some unknown suspension and a genuine RX4 diff. These came from a typical abandoned RX4 project where the car had a nasty accident history which was revealed after being pulled to a million pieces, sand blasted and left for dead.
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/7632/img0642n.th.jpg (http://img262.imageshack.us/i/img0642n.jpg/)
You can tell this a genuine RX4 13b diff with 28 spline axles because of the brake line guard plate. The line is routed lower and away from the hot exhaust for a reason. Unfortunately, most people doing a diff conversion (or even just a rotor into a 929 for that fact) neglect to route the brake line away from the exhaust or add any shielding. 13b/28 spline units only have one of two ratios and nothing else fits without a major headache. So its 3.63 or 3.9. I'll come back and post pics of a proper 13b/28spline centre.
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/5964/img0643b.th.jpg (http://img412.imageshack.us/i/img0643b.jpg/)

I'm back to work tomorrow. So won't be back into it seriously until the weekend. But i can probably get a few things lined up so each job will flow more smoothly. Think I'll be doing brakes and struts next up.

ALLMTR
03-01-11, 09:59 PM
Most thorough build thread evar

I like!

HoonBoy
03-01-11, 10:04 PM
Actually the good thing about this is I don't have to care what it looks like. I forgot the freedom that comes with that attitude to car craft. I'm really loving just smashing it together without the headfuck that usually accompanies being picky or having things fully restored before they go near the car. :yup:

Even some of the big dollar guys are going this way and loving it. I was talking to a guy about some work and he had a couple of big dollar drag cars there, full carbon fibre interiors including wheel tubs, 7 second time slips and obvious repairs to the outside panel work covered up in rattle can paint. One of the owners openly admits to not getting the panel work done because he likes being able to cover up scratches with a rattle can!

dirty_sandwich
03-01-11, 10:46 PM
So jealous of having a rust farm. Going to put new seals etc in the motor? This is an awesome build :)

aaron_hogan
03-01-11, 10:59 PM
I love where this is going. I also love that you have a whole farm somewhere full of car bits :)

So jealous of having a rust farm. Going to put new seals etc in the motor? This is an awesome build :)

Appreciated. But not by my olds! They're renovating and their nice new feature bay window looks out across the *field of rust* (trademark pending). A re-shuffle and consolidation is on the cards. And by consolidation i mean *cubing* of lots of ford junk. Not like I'm short on spares. These things are beyond fucked though.
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/492/img0635c.th.jpg (http://img153.imageshack.us/i/img0635c.jpg/)
This one is a pisser. Dad's mate played cat and mouse over this car for nearly 2 years and was full of shit about it in an effort to extort over a grand for it. In the end i got it for nothing because he had to move. On the drive home the bonnet skin, so rusted, actually peeled backwards off the frame. The car had sat in a paddock in Werribee South for a very very long time. Sat with windows down and no air cleaner lid. Carb was full of straw, rat and sheep shit! Amazingly the engine turns and has been salvaged for tear down at a later date.


Going to put new seals etc in the motor?
Largely depends which motor is used but given the costs of even a basic rebuild (can do the build myself) with not much more than a water seal kit and other gaskets it would be pushing the limits of the remaining money without getting me where i want to be.

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/7605/mazshots055.th.jpg (http://img687.imageshack.us/i/mazshots055.jpg/)
This 1/2 of a green 929 coupe used to get around wearing the number plates "DEEBA". I spotted it by chance still mostly complete and scored it for $100. Raped it hard and chucked the mashed side/front to SimsMetal. As it sits you might notice the 5 stud chasers. Thats the RX5 9" diff. The width is correct but the mounts are all wrong.
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/2245/img0633v.th.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/i/img0633v.jpg/)


Melb northern suburbs showdown! I'm pretty sure you live about 5 minutes down the road from me.

I use the dodgy Asian guy on Grange Rd for all my welding. "You pay cash, come back 10 minute". Leon Mc Keon (the guy must have hated his parents) on Christmas St for engineering/machining.

Yep I'm in Thornbury sort of near Victoria Rd/Darebin Rd area. Thanks heaps for the tips!


13b turbo draw through webber style?

This will be hard to do on budget with the rotary tax, watching with interest

Rotary tax can be avoided. I fly under the radar. Have my own networks/sources. I don't fuck around and put my money where my mouth is. Jump on things quickly and will travel more than 30 mins to get stuff I consider valuable/rare/useful/cheap.

I lost my earlier response to this but basically I can't rule any options in or out at this early stage. I like the though of it but doing it on the $800 left over after purchase of the roller doesn't leave much room. It really comes down to NOT SPENDING.


Went to aarons, thundercunt was not home and is not answering his phone, so I suspect he is down on the farm under a car ripping off bits or rooting somewhere.

I have pics though (hoges tell me if you want them to come down).

Dashboard is rooted, rest of interior is good, tripped over bits lying around ready to go in. This thing should easily make 13's.

Right you were. I was down there raiding bits and assessing what else was useable to get it running, let alone what i have that will see the thing into the 13's.
http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/2134/img0634tb.th.jpg (http://img836.imageshack.us/i/img0634tb.jpg/)

Pics are all good although I have more that show the fucked parts, before and after. The pile of stuff behind the car isn't even the half of it mate. Don't worry about the dash pad. That doesn't make it any faster.

Actually the good thing about this is I don't have to care what it looks like. I forgot the freedom that comes with that attitude to car craft. I'm really loving just smashing it together without the headfuck that usually accompanies being picky or having things fully restored before they go near the car. :yup:

KanaL
03-01-11, 11:15 PM
all you northern blokes are around the corner from me.

if you need a hand bashing things/spinning spanners, let us know. looks like a good candidate!

sh|tbmxrider
04-01-11, 02:33 AM
Northern Suburbs represent?!

Oh, wait, im about 10km too far out.

WildZero
04-01-11, 04:04 AM
I have an unhealthy fetish for RX4s, eagerly awaiting your updates!

Paddington
04-01-11, 07:46 AM
all you northern blokes are around the corner from me.

if you need a hand bashing things/spinning spanners, let us know. looks like a good candidate!

your 1600 isn't white with a small bonnet scoop is it?


Northern Suburbs represent?!

Oh, wait, im about 10km too far out.

I'm an ex northy. Northcote is where its all at.

aaron_hogan
04-01-11, 09:29 AM
Northcote is where its all at.

Especially if you're a smug hipster on a singlespeed, private school educated and originally from Camberwell/Brighton, like totally slumming it with the muso crowd at Northcote Social yah. :gay:

Well its either that or you are an elderly Greek playing geriatric frogger with traffic on High st.



Maybe I will have a PF-BBQ-and-engine-instal-day-followed-by-skids. Date/time/location TBA but likely 15th/16th Jan. This will also be the likley last day of living like bachelor toad. After this is likely when I'll be having potential flat mates through the joint so i have to get all the clutter/car parts largely done with. Gives me a bit of time to get the various engine options sorted and will have a clear plan of attack for the day.

Nugget shit-talk hotline: 0417507875 after business hours and weekends.

KanaL
04-01-11, 09:52 AM
your 1600 isn't white with a small bonnet scoop is it?


nah, its blue and rusting away in the shed. haha

bbq/engine install sounds good too.

Paddington
04-01-11, 10:11 AM
Especially if you're a smug hipster on a singlespeed, private school educated and originally from Camberwell/Brighton, like totally slumming it with the muso crowd at Northcote Social yah. :gay:

Well its either that or you are an elderly Greek playing geriatric frogger with traffic on High st.



fuck people on bycles these days. cunts yell at me for using the bike lane, but then they ride through red lights. hypocritical fuck tards.

had two old wogs try to impale themselves on the front of the kawasaki last week, every seen an old wog run? it looked like a wrinkly old praying mantis with its hands up in the air. stupid git, they waited until traffic started moving, then started strolling across cross bell street :knock:


so i have to get all the clutter/car parts largely done with.
if you keep car parts in their room, gives you an excuse for walking in there. :yup:

MRMOPARMAN
04-01-11, 10:47 AM
fuck used to live near you cunts aswell. used to live up elm st before moving to reservoir

Andrew Bolt
04-01-11, 11:05 AM
LOL at High St wog frogger.:rotflol:

exwrxex
04-01-11, 01:08 PM
LOL at High St wog frogger.:rotflol:

Ha ha, see them all the time, corner Clarke and High Sts.

Aaron, I am pretty useless but if you need help with anything that doesnt require skills or finesse, let me know. :)

Paddington
04-01-11, 03:28 PM
LOL at High St wog frogger.:rotflol:

epic wog frogger outside my old block of flats, the commie bank in northcote plaza on pension day. fark, they'd be lining up outside at 8.30am like it was the 1929 crash demanding their money.

aaron_hogan
04-01-11, 04:13 PM
Aaron, I am pretty useless but if you need help with anything that doesnt require skills or finesse, let me know. :)

So caligraphy is out then?

Are you familiar with the operation of a BBQ and don't value your eyebrows beyond ornamental status?
Know the difference between raw chicken and the e-coli induced projectile weight loss method?
Able to snap the tongs at blowflies like Mr Miyagi, and argue with half-pissed cunts, while keeping swedes and freeloaders away all at the same time?
*THEN DO I HAVE THE JOB FOR YOU! .........The position of BBQ Chef is currently vacant.

I reckon i will just go to costco and load up on ridiculous "American lard-arse" size things. Your mission, if you choose to accept it, is to charcoal the fuck out of anything that looks edible while I stand around and try to look like I know what i'm doing.

*Terms and conditions apply. Not actual job. You may be gearboxed or called a cunt at any time.


I suppose I should add this is a PF meet. A few AR cunts will hear the barbie ignite and rock up but I don't want this event broadcast on facebook. I just don't have the ridiculous hair, oversize sunnies and fuck-you attitude required to deal with the associated media profile.

morerevsm3
04-01-11, 06:12 PM
fuck used to live near you cunts aswell. used to live up elm st before moving to reservoir

bet that was a nightmare...

stockymcstock
04-01-11, 06:42 PM
northern suburbs for life dawg

i'm just in north melbourne too so if you need more hands/tools/macguyvering let me know, i love working on shitheaps and i have tiny little baby hands that are awesome for working in tight spaces

ALLMTR
04-01-11, 06:47 PM
I think this thread has lost its direction . . .

12arx3
04-01-11, 07:27 PM
Entertaining thread - excellent write -ups. I have enjoyed your comments in the AR housing affordability thread too.
I am a north eastern suburb guy (Heidelberg) and a fellow rotor owner so happy to help out if an extra pair of hands is needed - I am no expert mechanic but can help bash a few things into place or help cook the BBQ.:)
Will keep an eye on the thread for timings.

aaron_hogan
04-01-11, 09:40 PM
DAY FOUR: 4/1/11 GETTING ORGANISED

Regrettably i had to go back into the office today. :sad: I had a heads up I was walking into a shit storm (industrial dispute on first day back- yay) but I have no direct boss, an "acting director" and a new director wanting to have a very serious meeting about my employment...in a good way though. So I really couldn't blow off work this week even though its the LAST thing i would want to be doing. But we all need money and if i'm not claiming hours i'm not getting paid. That wouldn't put a stop to 13's for $1300 though :yup:

As i was up until 2am trying to figure out this crap with hosting pics (it was just a matter of using a different program that reads the camera AND works with image shack) i didn't get much sleep and the plan to do a couple of things from 6am to 8am just fell apart. But i probably spent the better part of the day thinking through what i would do when i got home.

So rolled home at 7pm and continued unloading the Landcruiser and the trailer. I laid out all the parts and snapped some pics so you can see whats going into it mid-week.
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/7964/img0645cz.th.jpg (http://img193.imageshack.us/i/img0645cz.jpg/)

While the chassis cross-member is there, I just realised I forgot to get out the engine cross-members and other bits which I already had powder coated in a big batch of stuff last year mostly because Geoff and I have been getting a really good rate and excellent service from ADA Powder Coating in Thomastown.

www.adapowdercoatings.com

I'm not too concerned about looks on this thing but certain stuff cleaned up really stands out to the point that it should be very clear just where the work has been done. Its not a performance mod.

I've said i'll be upfront about the parts used so if any cunt has a problem with any of the parts used then speak up or forever hold your peace. I will point out the new parts shown but maybe not obvious in these photos:

1. Front brake hoses, gladly donated by Geoff [Sv_i] as an internet purchase from Rock Auto resulted in "extra" parts being shipped. Either way you look at it they were free and they are RWC items.

2. Nolothane Inner control arm bushes, accidentally over-ordered by me because I was half asleep at Rip Every Poor Cunt Off (repco). I think i can find the receipt or at least get a recent price if needed and count in the running costs.

Other stuff of note (not a complete list of whats in the pics):
f&r bumpers, washer bottle, overflow bottle
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/5535/img0646wy.th.jpg (http://img23.imageshack.us/i/img0646wy.jpg/)

Aforementioned "koni" struts. These were originally in my white coupe which had been off the road since the late eighties. I think the struts and brakes were done by selectmaz way back when.
http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/568/img0647yw.th.jpg (http://img828.imageshack.us/i/img0647yw.jpg/)

Rear koni's out of the green RX4 wagon, RX4 short throttle cable, speedo cable.
http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/9075/img0649xz.th.jpg (http://img593.imageshack.us/i/img0649xz.jpg/)

Steering box, Idler arm, half decent button clutch
http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/6552/img0648j.th.jpg (http://img829.imageshack.us/i/img0648j.jpg/)

Battery cable, fuel hose, Tramp Rods, battery and battery box
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/5097/img0651yr.th.jpg (http://img441.imageshack.us/i/img0651yr.jpg/)

Box of tricks, coils, coil brackets, relays, used nolathane bushes, spring shackles.
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/2001/img0652rj.th.jpg (http://img29.imageshack.us/i/img0652rj.jpg/)

Disappointingly a diff centre i found squirrelled away at the farm, and thought to be a low ratio centre just turned out to be a 3.9/24 spline/welded centre. Meh. I have one in another diff i just didn't want to strip it out if i didn't have to. :sad:

When i checked the brakes the other day (and dodged the redbacks) i think it was the wheel bearings making noise. A good mate (Jed Simmons) has offered up a pair of 24 spline axles he was about to throw out and the bearings on these are meant to be ok. Its a moot point until i pick a diff to use. The 9 inch may be overkill and rob me of some poke. In the tradition of the three little bears it might turn out that the 13b diff is just right.
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/5183/img0625m.th.jpg (http://img440.imageshack.us/i/img0625m.jpg/)

SO I've got my work cut out for me this week and late nights at work can gtfo. Nothing has to be finished off but if its all ready to rock or sitting in place I can close out the little things easier in the full day light without fear of mozzie swarms.

aaron_hogan
04-01-11, 10:41 PM
Sorted out the pics and edited the first few posts made in haste. Got to hit the hay.

Paddington
05-01-11, 09:16 AM
had a think last night, I think the 13b diff might be the go. Extra raspy killawasps might destroy the 12A diff.

What date is this barbie shindig? Sat or Sun. I wanna go up to crackafat and pickup those 626 boxes.

aaron_hogan
05-01-11, 08:42 PM
Earlier today I had a massive write up but lost it as PF seems to "time out" when accessed from work. So fuck it short and sweet tonight. I'll revisit the parameters for diff selection, and cover off on my un-guided efforts at race-prepping the car (including a bit of driver's ed, safety etc).

DAY FIVE: (5/1/11) BRAKES - Master and booster

The master cylinder and booster were always going to need a once over. I just wouldn't leave it to chance on something that is being built purely to go fast. Bearing that in mind a good look at the total brake system should be right up there at the top of everybody's "to-do" list.

It seemed like the master was sorta new looking, despite the obvious signs of a previous brake fluid leak taking the paint off the booster. First thing was to take the cap off and look at the fluid/sludge situation. Fuck me, it looked like a baby shat in it.

From there i pulled the master from the booster and grabbed my can of carby cleaner - clean out of the stuff - so had to resort to a squirt of degreaser to shift the bulk of the sludge from the reservoir. Then I manually removed the last of it by stuffing a rag in there and wiping it around.

I knew this would indicate the inside was just as bad so pulled the piston out of the bore and yep - filthy with sludge. Thankfully the bore was perfect with no scratches and the seals were spot on. So it just went back together with a light smear of petroleum jelly.

Then the booster looked so grotty I just had to clean it up, especially the rusty looking parts. I just didn't want any issues with scrutineers at the track so there are some things best given at least a little cosmetic attention.

************************************

Earlier today i thought i'd try my luck at cashing in some favours at work (metro fire brigade). I called up the mechanical workshops and asked if i could drop by with my control arms to have the inner bushes pressed out. "Yeah no worries". So I think i will try pushing my luck and turn up with a couple of other things tomorrow morning and see how far I get. :w:

morerevsm3
05-01-11, 11:00 PM
do you work with Burkey?

briney
06-01-11, 06:43 AM
[QUOTE=aaron_hogan;840962757]


Thankfully the bore was perfect with no scratches and the seals were spot on. So it just went back together with a light smear of petroleum jelly.

[QUOTE]

please say you didn't really do this.

MRMOPARMAN
06-01-11, 08:08 AM
please say you didn't really do this.

why not? if its just a bit gunked up and the seals havent been clubbed, then whats wrong with cleaning it out and shoving back togeher?

aaron_hogan
06-01-11, 10:52 AM
@ Briney

Was that wrong, should I not have done that? Should I have used pb&j instead of just pj?

But now i'm confused which do you have a problem with; the use of petroleum jelly or the re-use of seals?

If it makes any difference the jar of it must have got hot and the vey top of it was more like an oil than anything. I'm not aware of any reason to not lube up a seal as its more likely to get chewed on re-install if it goes in dry. I didn't have any brake fluid on hand or, of course, i would have used that.

And as stated, the bore was spot on and the seals looked fine after very careful inspection.

There is still time to order a new master seal kit and i have no problem being corrected if what i did was an ignorant error of judgement. I just didn't plan on leaving the thing completely unchecked. I also have the recent receipt for getting a master cyl fully reco'd and sleeved for my other car. It was around the $260 mark.


@morerevsm3
I have no idea who "Burkey" is but i would guarantee he knows who i am. ~1700 Operational Staff and ~300 Corporate/Tech/Mechanical/Engineering staff. I'm based at Eastern Hill/#1 station. Quite possibly my job is the least popular - the Industrial Relations Officer/Acting ER Manager - so I get the typical amount of respect as would a parking inspector. If you know a firey then you know how seriously they take IR. It can be a great place most days and then others...well, it does my head in.

Will do the daily update later tonight.

Captain_Slow
06-01-11, 12:51 PM
Quite possibly my job is the least popular - the Industrial Relations Officer/Acting ER Manager - so I get the typical amount of respect as would a parking inspector. If you know a firey then you know how seriously they take IR. It can be a great place most days and then others...well, it does my head in.

I too work in public sector IR, I feel your pain :)

briney
06-01-11, 01:42 PM
i don't care about the reuse of old parts. if they are fine, go your hardest. it's just mineral based oils destroy brake rubbers. rubber grease or brake fluid is the go.

aaron_hogan
06-01-11, 07:41 PM
Thanks for that Briney. At this point its going to be easy to strip it apart and re-do it with brake fluid instead. Hell, I'll even bench bleed it while I'm at it.

Now can you tell me more about converting those shockers to 90/10 units. Imagine its selection of the correct oil grade? The shock oil that pissed forth on the last set I gutted was stinky runny and very yellow.

Paddington
06-01-11, 07:47 PM
The shock oil that pissed forth on the last set I gutted was stinky runny and very yellow.

I'd say that was some japanese production line workers piss put in as revenge for losing the war.

I was going to drop past hoges but the bike has no indicators so riding through the burbs is a bit dicey at dusk.

aaron_hogan
06-01-11, 10:18 PM
DAY SIX: (6/1/11) FRONT END

This morning I painted the brake booster. I had earlier confirmed it held vacuum with a mityvac pump so i was cool to go ahead and just clean it up. I just ran through a bunch of old cans of paint. I had planned to use the half can of black wrinkle coat but couldn't get a thing out of the can. So i substituted that with plain black engine enamel.

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/1013/img0656lv.th.jpg (http://img143.imageshack.us/i/img0656lv.jpg/)

I took a closer look at the Volvo callipers today but didn't get to go to the brake place I normally use - Darbys Brake & Clutch. (03) 94782311. Fact 3/ 683 Plenty Rd, Preston. - Really great service and no job is a problem.

The only issue I have with these brakes is that they have sat around since the mid-late 1980's unused. The steel brake line running from the calliper to the flexible line is a bit rough looking and the flare nut looked rusty. I think i might well get these re-done to go with the new hoses donated by Geoff.

I forgot to take a photo of the brake kit but I like the way they have converted from those stupid frustrating wheel bolts over to "studs". Actually how they did it was to run through a 12x1.25 bolt form the back of the hub and then secure it with a roll pin against the flat edge of the head. This is one mod I will be doing to the rear axles too. Instead of roll pins I will just make 4x strips with two holes each and tap the edges over, also locktite won't go astray. I went to the nearest fastener shop but they only had a bolt in stock that was, to my mind, a little short.

I threw a bunch of crusty bits into a box, including a couple of pairs of control arms, steering knuckles and a drag link. Too bad I forgot the idler arm...next time. That one already has nolathane in it so blasting it would be purely cosmetic.

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/2411/img0654id.th.jpg (http://img10.imageshack.us/i/img0654id.jpg/)

I headed into the workshops today and was pointed in the direction of the press. Took an extra set of hands to grapple with the fiddly control arms. Once we set it up it was pretty quick to press out the inner control arm bushes with the aid of a 17mm impact socket. When replacing the original bushes you have to remove the metal sleeve too.

Having got this far it was suggested I go out the back and pressure wash all the parts. Then they let me loose on the blasting cabinet. I will probably run a few more things through that cabinet. Had a great time talking to the blokes out there (both about cars and work), made sure I thanked everyone for their help and was welcomed back any time.

I came home via REPCO and laid down $9.20 for new ball joint boots. You might see in an earlier pic I already had some tie rod boots. I replace these on all my cars at the first sign of a split so i don't mind carrying spares. I'll wear the cost of both sets of boots at $20 if I have to but I would deem that a safety repair.

Went back to the paint cabinet and pulled out the leftover POR15 paint kit. I mixed up some Marine Clean and completely forgot to wear gloves. Within no time my skin was wrinkling up and tingling! You have to be careful with these chemicals and products. A while back I had a major learning curve with their thinners and the lack of a decent mask/respirator. It was a big scare and I went straight out to get a Sundstrom mask. Unfortunately its the basic safety shit that people like me tend to forget - googles and gloves. Derrrr.

With POR15 you have to get everything perfectly clean and even though blasted metal is pretty clean i just take the extra step to run the marine clean over it before painting. Its also a bit of a no-brainer that before you paint anything, you get everything set up and on hand ready to go.

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/9118/img0657rm.th.jpg (http://img820.imageshack.us/i/img0657rm.jpg/)

Right now all the bits are drying off but they came up looking great. At this stage I think I'll be dropping the front end out on the weekend. I'm not certain how the front end should be set up for the 400m and if its worth introducing a little castor and camber.

Mazda really had no idea how to make these things handle (they should have copied Datsun and managed a steering rack and independent rear imho).

I really wish I had a spare pair of castor blocks. They mount to the chassis and drop/pull forward the torsion bar. so if there is anyone with access to a CNC machine and some billet, sing out because I reckon a run of these will sell on AR pretty quickly and you could just copy one of mine.

Camber on these cars (without the use of adjustable tops) can be achieved by re-drilling the control arm pivot point. I'm just not sure by how much. A fairly safe bet would be to move it across the minimum amount that would leave say 5mm (min) between the old and new holes. I would prefer to get an eccentric bolt arrangement in there but have no idea where to obtain them.

Rorz de Puniet
07-01-11, 05:13 AM
Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. You're definately putting some effort into it. Good luck mate.

Greg Rust
07-01-11, 04:20 PM
Great work on starting a thread, maybe we need some wagers to get this really interesting.

On the topic of hydraulic brake seals most are made from EPDM rubber which swells when in contact with petroleum based lubricants which is why red rubber grease was invented, you can also just use brake fluid to reassemble things.

Cheers,

2JZR31
07-01-11, 04:42 PM
This looks like its going to actually end up a decent car. I'm looking forward to see what you come up with for powering it.

aaron_hogan
07-01-11, 07:50 PM
DAY SIX: (6/1/11) FRONT END and REAR END BEGINS

Overnight the POR15 paint dried and I was able to handle the components. I like the finish you can achieve with nothing more than a brush, but getting the part clean is critical. It comes up like a glossy hard enamel and should endure well on the underside of the car. There is no need for it to be a show pony but since the actual car is so shitty looking, all the safety items looking like they've seen some love doesn't hurt.

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/55/img0657om.th.jpg (http://img406.imageshack.us/i/img0657om.jpg/)

The photo demonstrates the difference between the OEM bush and the new Nolathane replacement. The boots give the appearance of a new ball joint. It will however need to be greased up like a scotsman. The bushes for the torsion bar (castor and D bush not pictured) are second hand but useable.

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/4511/img0658nx.th.jpg (http://img51.imageshack.us/i/img0658nx.jpg/)http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6259/img0659aw.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/i/img0659aw.jpg/)

And the master was stripped cleaned and re-assembled for a second time. There may be a third with and actual re-kit it for peace of mind but since i still have to make a trip to Darby's brakes I can afford to wait a little. Then do hard lines, pads and calliper kit in one go.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/6316/img0660m.th.jpg (http://img508.imageshack.us/i/img0660m.jpg/)


I see there is a little curiosity around the driveline. I mentioned earlier i had a 9 inch as a diff option. It came from a fucked out RX5-121 i scored on ebay for peanuts at the end of 2009. I gutted it completely in a day. It gave up a new 13bPP, RX5 box and the 9 inch diff.

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/9145/img0486b.th.jpg (http://img832.imageshack.us/i/img0486b.jpg/)http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/5655/img0487ny.th.jpg (http://img829.imageshack.us/i/img0487ny.jpg/)

The diff is physically the same width as the RX4 diff (1410mm). It runs a 4.88 LSD centre, no idea on spline count, commodore stud pattern and brakes. It was built by RUPCOL diffs (that's the red stickers).

To double check the fitment complete with some MooMoo chasers running 225/60/15's here it is shoved under the rear 1/2 of the smashed coupe...although not centred properly.

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/9306/img0495k.th.jpg (http://img341.imageshack.us/i/img0495k.jpg/)

I tried to sell this a few times but got a couple of fuck arounds and no serious takers. To set it up for RX4 it just needs the RX5 mounts lopped off and conventional spring platforms welded on. I think a couple of the mounts may be re-useable as a ghetto 2-link. Can supply a bare 929 housing to make a jig so the job should be easy enough if anyone here wants to attempt the job (for PF cred and man love at bbq) it would be mucho appreciated to keep the costs down. Geelong Differentials are on holidays as is McDonald Bros.

Speaking of which...the 2 link install pics here ----> http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/2linkkits.html
are showing the fitment on an RX4. I think I could do it similarly but not the same by picking up the mount points for the cross bar/loop from the front spring eye pivot.
Here is a shot of the underside showing where you could run a bar across (notwithstanding exhaust clearance).
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/6536/img0677hg.th.jpg (http://img35.imageshack.us/i/img0677hg.jpg/)
It could be a complete bolt-in. Arms would be donated by a visit to pick-a-part armed with a tape measure. Then cut and shut some adjustability into them. Then make the front pick up brackets. All sounds easy but this won't be happening for a while yet. In the mean time it will be lucky if the old tramp rods go back on.

There is a different way of doing the 2-link and that is the original way as was done on the top of the line JDM RX4 luce. Basically it had two upper arms going to a removable mount on the rear chassis rail forward of the shocks. For those interested there is bulk info here on AR -----> http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=183503&hilit=rx4+handling

http://i40.tinypic.com/2mm8tu0.jpg

The 13bPP out of this RX5 was the main point of my bid.
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/3334/img0466k.th.jpg (http://img192.imageshack.us/i/img0466k.jpg/)http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/3290/img0474q.th.jpg (http://img708.imageshack.us/i/img0474q.jpg/)

The seller told me when i went to look that i was the only person who seriously enquired and actually came to look at it. I then found out this motor cost in the vicinity of $8k from Rank Rotary in 1998 or thereabouts. It has brand new from mazda everything bar the apex seals which are Ianetti ceramics, but they are brand new too. The motor was set up in the car with injection, wolf 3d and M&W cdi but never ran. It was well sealed and still full of oil/petroleum jelly as this pic shows.

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/332/img0475f.th.jpg (http://img5.imageshack.us/i/img0475f.jpg/)

I'm not a huge fan of the PP. I very nearly stripped this motor to sell as a set of ready-done PP housings and plates. Then plan was to get Jed Simmons to port up a set of BP plates (if you have never seen his work, trust me the bloke is at the top of his game and has close ties to Rohan @ Extreme).

But with no desperate need for the cash, and a very decent 230 odd hp BP motor sitting there already, I shelved any plans until I had a firmer idea of the perfect driveline for my genuine RX4.

And as I have posted, can't rule any combo in or out until i have crunched the numbers and competed honestly by actually building the car.

Tomorrow the block comes out of the RX7 and an auto comes out of that munted RX4 which looks like it was hit by a road train.

Dogsballs
07-01-11, 09:13 PM
i think these will be fast. or go fast then bang. hopefully not the later.

aaron_hogan
07-01-11, 10:20 PM
Personally I think there are going to be faster/more powerful cars than my entry but i'm going to refrain from debating other entries beyond giving my support and encouragement to all participants. :)

I am aiming to not break anything, but the challenge is then to not over-engineer it either at the expense of weight/hp loss and budget concerns. We are all going to be at the mercy of the unknowns with cars built this cheaply.

Andrew Bolt
08-01-11, 05:28 AM
You remind me of me. You have spares and cars squirrelled away everywhere.

Hilarious!:lol:

Tils
08-01-11, 05:53 AM
Personally I think there are going to be faster/more powerful cars than my entry but i'm going to refrain from debating other entries beyond giving my support and encouragement to all participants. :)

Good way of thinking! I look at this as a demonstration of what is achievable on a tight budget... Entry level racing is within reach for everyone!

Paddington
08-01-11, 11:00 AM
You remind me of me. You have spares and cars squirrelled away everywhere.

Hilarious!:lol:

aaron's is my personal wrecking yard, plus he makes a great coffee.


Good way of thinking! I look at this as a demonstration of what is achievable on a tight budget... Entry level racing is within reach for everyone!

THIS!
This is what I want to acheive with my wagon. I'd love to go all out on a car, but I figure low budget, lots of DIY and then get out there and enjoy the thing, rather than worry about spending tens of thousands on blah blah blah and it never seeing the light of day. I predict an epic amount of gigglesa and smiles when this thing is up and running.

rx213b
08-01-11, 05:59 PM
Wow, this one looks kind of awesome :D

subscribed for sure, interested as to when this bbq is at too....would love to kick tyres :)

aaron_hogan
08-01-11, 08:03 PM
~~~~~~~~~~~~ANNOUNCEMENT~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
************MELB PF TIRE KICKING BBQ***************

Wednesday January 26 (Australia Day)
1PM to neighbours say stfu go home,
Thornbury
##ADDRESS WILL BE PM'd TO WORTHY ATTENDEES##
express your interest in attending and I'll cut a list.

JJJ Hottest 100/BBQ/DRINKS/TIRE KICKING/13's FOR $1300 LYNCHING PREP.

Will size up how big this is and can probably put on a bit of basic grub, communal esky, cheap ass beers.

My details:
Aaron Hogan
0417507875
pm via PF that way i can't miss it.

Paddington
08-01-11, 08:12 PM
Wow, this one looks kind of awesome :D

subscribed for sure, interested as to when this bbq is at too....would love to kick tyres :)

you better be driving the RX-2 to the barbie or expect a gearboxing.

rx213b
08-01-11, 08:16 PM
got all the club reg form signed and just need to give it in to vicroads on monday.

Then tune and it'll be all ready to go :)

aaron_hogan
08-01-11, 08:44 PM
DAY SEVEN: Fri 7/1/11 TAILSHAFTS
Big day at work and drinks afterward interfered with getting much done. I was expecting to head out again at 11pm but it failed to eventuate. I was wide awake in the middle of the night and have had insomnia for a week so i thought i'd put it to good use.

Went out tot he shed and managed to go through a literal stack of tail shafts and pick out three I think will be useable. They're all two-piece shafts with a centre bearing. I know one of these is definitely s5 turbo yoke and the other end is specific to the van diff with 4.44's as its a "short nose" carrier. The other was marked RX5 and came from the unit with 9 inch. Interestingly i noticed it just has a normal mazda "13b large" diff flange to match the 9" round flange. The other I assume to be an RX4 auto tail shaft. Being a two piece design I can actually mix and match to get the correct yokes and lengths whatever combo goes in. :yup:

I might go check out pick-a-part first thing Sunday and climb under some R31's and VL's to check the tail shaft and uni sizes with a view to putting something a bit more robust under there down the track.

For now, its just getting the package together and the "upgrades" can occur subject to priority/risk of breakage/remaining funds.


DAY EIGHT: 8/1/11 MORE PARTS

Got behind before I even got out the door today. One visitor after another, some more welcome than others. Finally hit the road at 1pm. With an hour to get there, it can really chew into your day if you don't plan it.

Aimed to get the 13b out the RX7 today but the weather was fucked. Scorching heat, then massive cool change and very windy followed by pissing down rain. Since the car is outdoors, and engine removal occurs via the block and tackle mounted off the horse yards it was going to be a shit fight from the get go.

Just found something else on the list to do instead. Needed the 3spd auto just to cover off all my options. It was pretty straight forward to remove given the car is blocked up high off the ground and engineless. Not much more to come off this thing and then i can have it cubed.

Loaded up my engine crane and a heap of random RX4 parts that were put in boxes and shoved inside a car many moons ago (I seem to recall 2001?). The thing with this was the frustration of the door mechanisms kind of seizing some years back and i just gave up on it because it wasn't that important.

The doors were unlocked and the handle moves but doesn't open (this was also encountered on the current project's LH door). To open the car i doused it with WD40 through the window bailey channel. No joy. Ended up removing the door at the hinges then it literally fell off :lol:

Fuck me there was some gold in there. Stuff i completely forgot I had which will lift the interior condition a bit.

Tomorrow the weather should be more appropriate and one way or another that 13b is coming out and will be in my driveway Sunday arvo.

Paddington
08-01-11, 08:53 PM
got all the club reg form signed and just need to give it in to vicroads on monday.

Then tune and it'll be all ready to go :)

who'd you get to sign it? About time, you realise it's been 5 or so years?




Got behind before I even got out the door today. One visitor after another, some more welcome than others.

:lol: sorry.



Tomorrow the weather should be more appropriate and one way or another that 13b is coming out and will be in my driveway Sunday arvo.

I will try and get out of this thing tomorrow early, failing that I will drop past in the evening and we can do stuff until dusk/work in shed. I have to get some filters for the Rover as well, wait until you see the air filters. :wtf:

rx213b
08-01-11, 09:41 PM
who'd you get to sign it? About time, you realise it's been 5 or so years?



Ray Potts, he said all cool as I had proof of rwc and it met historic reg requirements. Yes I know it has been 6 years, I bought the shell in 3/04 :(

Paddington
08-01-11, 09:50 PM
Pottsy is a top bloke. Unfortunately he likes and drives french cars. WTF.

aaron_hogan
09-01-11, 07:21 AM
More info on club/historic rego applicability and cost to this 929?

I'm thinking it will sail through a RWC with the only major issue being EPA noise level. Mostly since i have no idea how loud this old 3" system is. Lends itself to using the most conservative motor to get the legalities straightened out.

While not 100% necessary, and i need another rego to pay like a hole in the side of my dick, I must admit the attraction of being able to give it a Sunday squirt to the shops, or nearest industrial area, is growing on me. :w:

rx213b
09-01-11, 10:46 AM
PM coming your way

Paddington
09-01-11, 04:16 PM
More info on club/historic rego applicability and cost to this 929?



PM coming your way

club membership secretary is my mate, think the family that you know from abandoned vehicle auctions.

Paddington
09-01-11, 04:19 PM
dear vic pol/vicroads:

disclaimer: car club that rx213b has signed up to and that I am also in does not in no way endorse or support illegal rwc's, dangerous driving, etc.

rx213b
09-01-11, 08:36 PM
You just used a double negative

aaron_hogan
09-01-11, 08:53 PM
DAY NINE: 9/1/11 ENGINE REMOVAL

Well i got out there and pulled the block from the RX7. Straight forward so I'll spare you the write up. The pic says it all.

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/3610/img0661oq.th.jpg (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/img0661oq.jpg/)

After a quick stop at the car wash on the way home, most of the paint came off with the pressure wash. Which is good, because i hate red painted engines. They show up every bit of grime. I'll paint strip the rest of it off.

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/5286/img0668no.th.jpg (http://img26.imageshack.us/i/img0668no.jpg/)

I had a look down the (stock) exhaust ports and saw that this engine has excellent rotor housings and very clean rotors. A sign of a recent build using decent parts. Also i'm glad to see this engine has not got marks on the flywheel nut from a cold chisel. As this is usually the first warning sign of an engine built by a careless fuckwit. If they don't have the correct 54mm flywheel socket then how likely is it that they REALLY know how to set the clearances properly or go to the trouble of replacing anything out of spec.

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/6107/img0665.th.jpg (http://img502.imageshack.us/i/img0665.jpg/)

Geoff came over and gave me a hand to have a quick clean up. I got the bright idea...

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/8681/img0669wf.th.jpg (http://img156.imageshack.us/i/img0669wf.jpg/)

At least we had a good laugh!

jzx83
10-01-11, 07:15 AM
Do you live on a ley line?

Not sure what else could explain the sudden appearance of a miniature gearbox based Stonehenge on your driveway. ;)

Loving this build, especially the bit where you have been prodded into doing something useful with a huge collection of unsightly crap. Keep up the good work man.

Paddington
10-01-11, 07:29 AM
you just used a double negative

f7u12.

Paddington
10-01-11, 07:32 AM
I went through and started tossing some broken stuff away, pulled some dashboard and interior parts out of the grass and got them sorted, if venus lines up with the house of uranus and it doesn't rain/flood/earth split in half, there should be some good progress this week.

slikrx
10-01-11, 01:00 PM
aaron yo u have a pm bloke!

outy
10-01-11, 01:09 PM
aaron i need an rx5/121 bootlock with matching key. hoook a brotha up.

Greg Rust
10-01-11, 01:44 PM
Man I am still in awe of the amount of parts you have squirreled away.

aaron_hogan
10-01-11, 02:34 PM
slickrx: pm'd back. forums lost my very long reply. easier to speak face to face or at least on the phone.

outy: i can look through my stuff. i'm not sure that the bootlock from the 121 was any good. I think it had been screw-drivered (not by me). If its the same lock as rx4 you might have a chance. Otherwise i refer you to Wes or the other RX5 freaks. Also, consider putting a boot release solenoid in there (look at one from a falcon boot or fuel flap).

xwavgas: there is more to a factor of untold proportions. If i can reduce my hours at work i may get through other projects this year. Including tidythefuckinggarage project.

Where i've got caught is that you start to resto a car and others of its kind keep coming your way. My pet hate is cunts that dismantle cars and sell them as stripped shells with 4 trailer loads of shit that needs to be stored somewhere.

outy
10-01-11, 02:47 PM
its got a factory fitted boot release cable (at least i think its factory fitted as its down by the drivers seat) just need a lock to fill up the hole. rx4 locks arent big enough in diameter or need a backing plate - not sure.


so is the engine going in, ported at all ?

Momus
10-01-11, 02:57 PM
I went through and started tossing some broken stuff away, pulled some dashboard and interior parts out of the grass and got them sorted, if venus lines up with the house of uranus and it doesn't rain/flood/earth split in half, there should be some good progress this week.

WTF?

Good for a laugh here but otherwise sensible cunts storing gearboxes upright worries me.

Due to gravity most of the of the shit in the oil ends up in the front bearing.

Paddington
10-01-11, 04:12 PM
WTF?

Good for a laugh here but otherwise sensible cunts storing gearboxes upright worries me.

Due to gravity most of the of the shit in the oil ends up in the front bearing.

I kid you not, I found some interior trim under some weeds. I also found a bumper under a hedge. :rotflol:

aaron does store gearboxes horizontally, stacked like gearboxhenge was purely for lols.

ps - do you do wheel stud conversions Momus? I think i spoke to you ages ago via pm on ipra forum about my now crashed 1300, I referred Mo to you.

Komdotkom
10-01-11, 06:10 PM
Fuck I love someone with this much commitment to impulse purchases. You make me look like a fucking junior!
Nick a Part in Kilsyth has a few 4.6 ratio diffs that will fit your housing, you'll need to swap the centres over though, they are setup for 26 spline.
Happy to donate TIG or MIG welding to this project, PM me if you need anything.

aaron_hogan
10-01-11, 07:52 PM
lol at "impulse purchases". Reminds me of Homer saying "Feel your heart pumping a mile a minute? That's what mine is doing all the time! I bet your left arm is tingling too, huh?"

Cheers for the heads up on the diff centres. I think i'll be running the 4.44 centre I already have.

Thats awesome of you make the offer to donate your welding skills. I have a decent little mig here, a full bottle of argon and a speedglass helmet. But since i'm fucking useless at organising my way to a TAFE course* i've rarely used it at anything other than a rudimentary level (point and shoot to just clag two bits together).

Ah but Tig you say....now i'll be thinking of things that can be tigged. I'll have the car knocked together to a pretty basic format in no time. But its the evolution of it into one mean hombre that will need those blessed with fab skills to come to the fore.

*Doing a masters. May drop back on the egg head study and do the TAFE welding and panel beating courses just for stress relief.

aaron_hogan
10-01-11, 08:22 PM
DAY TEN: 10/1/11 RAIN DELAYS PLAY

Well its very unseasonal down here in Melb at the moment in the middle of summer. I have heard that we actually have 5 seasons. The fifth one happens December and January called "Spr-ummer". If you ever wanted proof of it just look outside.

It was raining when i got home so I had to figure out something else to do other than drop the cross members out and replace them with the rotary versions. This is a big priority as the engine cannot be fitted until this is done. The engine crossmember is retained by the torsion bar mounts. A prick of an idea. Only way around it is to run off-set castor blocks which bolt the cross member to the chassis and the torsion bar mounts to the block separately (I have these in the gen RX4).

Its less hassle to do the entire front end in one hit but since this is likely to a task undertaken in the evenings with the car sitting in the driveway where pictured, i'll have to do it in two parts. Cross members and torsion bar first, then the rest of the suspension/steering.

One thing that has bothered me about the interior is that "patina" doesn't quite do it justice. Its really sunburnt and hacky looking. I went through the spares and found some door trims that I can use for the time being while I sort out fixing up the originals. If the car is to be presented for RWC then it actually does matter to make it look respectable (up to a point). These are the trims I'll be using in my own car so at some point they will come back out.

I also went through some spare interior plastics and gave them a hit with Mothers "naturally black". Good stuff.

Was hoping to organise the wheel studs today but both businesses i'm happy to use appear to still be on holidays. Can't blame 'em, wish i was too.

aaron_hogan
11-01-11, 08:12 PM
DAY ELEVEN: 11/1/11

More rain. In January. WTF. :ugh2: Got soaked but dropped the front end (torsion bar, cross member, control arms). Left the drag link, tie rods and struts in. (these will get a clean up, new boots etc when i swap the steering box)

An early night might see me out of bed early enough to put the rotary cross member back in before work.

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/1378/img0672ji.th.jpg (http://img823.imageshack.us/i/img0672ji.jpg/)http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/453/img0675ur.th.jpg (http://img835.imageshack.us/i/img0675ur.jpg/)

ALLMTR
12-01-11, 07:50 PM
Crossmember in?

aaron_hogan
12-01-11, 10:12 PM
DAY TWELVE: 12/1/11

Crossmember is in.

Didn't manage to do this before work because I opted to take the volvo brakes to Darby's before work. Was able to identify the callipers as Volvo 240 series. I've asked for a price on a rebuild kit, but given the period of time these have sat unused (>20yrs) then its a given they need to be looked at. Darby's will strip one calliper and let me know what i'm in for. I'm expecting a kit to be cheap but a shop rebuild to be about $200.00 thankfully there is another option...

I've just been tipped off there is an alloy version of these. I'll go looking for some just in case (pick a part $10 ea!). At the least it would save me a rebuild and a little less unsprung weight than the cast versions.

At this stage i have no idea if you can get a decent pad for these either as my mate mentioned last time he did pads for a customer that he had to find an approximate pad and re-drill the retainer holes. I don't want to spend a fortune on these but i do need to have some peace of mind that its going to stop so pad choice is important.

When I got back from work I did my best Clark Kent impersonation and got out of the shirt and tie the second i walked in. Straight under the car to pick up where I left off. Find it much nicer to deal with clean parts and there is an element of satisfaction knowing that it looks professionally done. While i was under there a bloke walked past and gave me a "Nice car mate! Haven't seen one in ages!" compliment.

Here you see the three cross members for comparison. Wish I had these powder coated in the last batch a few months ago.
Left: Original 929 piston engine
Centre: Modified 929 with mounts cut off
Right: Genuine RX4.

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/5269/img0679t.th.jpg (http://img819.imageshack.us/i/img0679t.jpg/)

Not a great deal of difference (of all Mazda's the RX4 and 929 are the most alike between piston and rotary models). But if i was to find a suitable eccentric bolt for camber adjustment i'd bloody well mod it to incorporate that. They must exist in the size i need because a mate of mine and Geoff's has an ex-Maztech RX3 (as in Russell Heffernan's old car) with this mod done to it. Actually, the car is a virtual wreck these days but the engineering in it is excellent.

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/8835/img0685o.th.jpg (http://img30.imageshack.us/i/img0685o.jpg/)

The bolts in the pic above are from an AE92 Corolla and are too thick for this application. (and now i've just realised i forgot to try them with the Nolathane bush metal sleeve removed - d'oh). But they illustrate what i'm talking about. If used on an original RX4 cross member there would be a need to cut the chassis mount area back for more room (you can just see this protruding in the pic) but this would be unnecessary on a 929 crossmember because of the different shape in that area. There is plenty of flat area to weld the "guide" to so that the round area is captive.

Here is a "twin torsion bar" which is a mod about as old as the car itself. If you look back over the pics you'll see it came from my RX4 as do the red struts (except it now looks much better after being powder coated).

http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/1851/mazshots060.th.jpg (http://img121.imageshack.us/i/mazshots060.jpg/)

Essentially its an extra bar with the castor ends chopped off. Circuit racers have told me these are favoured because you can adjust these for a little more or less turn in by moving the bracket positions. I just put a fatter kmac bar on my own car but i might try this one to make up my mind which i'd prefer in which car.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/8288/img0682c.th.jpg (http://img407.imageshack.us/i/img0682c.jpg/)

You can also see i'm re-using second hand Nolathane castor bushes and torsion bar bushes that have been over-sprayed. They just copped a wipe down and plenty of fresh grease before install.

And we're nearly done. Years of play time with these and you soon figure the best order of replacement so the job goes along easy.

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/1664/img0683eq.th.jpg (http://img88.imageshack.us/i/img0683eq.jpg/)

Once it got dark I rolled over to Jeds place and picked up a set of 24 spline 929 axles and brakes. I'm going to have these ones converted to studs so its a quick change-over and the car remains mobile. Hopefully this also gets me out of changing wheel bearings.

Paddington
13-01-11, 12:36 PM
This is coming along nicely.

Having all that stuff sitting on shelves has finally come in handy! :D

aaron_hogan
13-01-11, 01:54 PM
To be honest, i didn't have to wait until I got THIS car to use up all those bits. What with the other 929 coupe just sitting around it was probably just as practical to resto that.

But there's the thing... "resto". Its just so much harder to sink yourself into the mindset (and time committment) required to do a proper restoration compared to a bolt-together build.

Had I got started in on the other 929 it would be nowhere near done because I'd want to start with body work and work up to fitting it out. But I do admit the other car needs to be done to a higher standard due to the higher grade/rarity of parts going into it. And to attempt this while the genuine RX4 sits unloved due in large part to the never-ending chain of mods meaning more more mods it would be an exercise in futility to take it on now.

This current car is getting done back to front. But its getting done!
There is method in the madness. Just have to let go of the "OCD" and decide that getting it done is more important than getting it right.

Paddington
13-01-11, 06:22 PM
double post malarky

Paddington
13-01-11, 06:23 PM
Close, I reckon you are getting it done and done right, but you're letting go of the "well if two tim tams are good, imagine how a crate full of tim tams would be!" mentality that sees cars stripped and sitting in garages for years while people save like crazy for a billetunobtainium part, when really, the factory one rattle can'd black would do the job just as well.

Best part about this is, you can park it anywhere (kinda) and not worry about scratches etc, whereas imagine if someone scratched or backed into the luce?
(which is my mentality with the wagon, the only thing that I can think of that worries me is either the whole car getting knocked off from a station carpark or someone pinching the RX-4 badges off the rear quarter).

rx213b
13-01-11, 07:05 PM
Oh just thought I might let you know shannons has a 'club reg' insurance as well, was substantially less than limited use......

aaron_hogan
13-01-11, 08:47 PM
Good to know. Depends how i feel about this by the time i finish it.


DAY THIRTEEN: 13/1/11 DRUM BRAKES

Ok I really didn't get a lot done today. Went out for drinks with crew from work. Came home and emptied the spare axles out of the daily.

Figured all i really could do was strip the drums/shoes/backing plates. So thats done and all ready for a trip to the sand blast cabinet. Will just clean the backing plates up and hit with POR15.

The shoes already on the car are great with much life left. The drums are equally good with no scores or uneven wear.

I have spare wheel cylinders but the ones on the car show no signs of leakage. I might just strip and check them. Or else, replace.

If i can't track down some suitable 1x1.25 bolts then i think i'll also drill the old 4x110 pattern out and fit GM/Commodore ARP wheel studs. Commonly available and the matching thread pitch.

The weather is a major interruption and the only other thing i can think of doing when i get home tomorrow is to cable the battery to the car and do a basic check of indicators/headlights/hazards/wipers/tail lights.

Mr Parts
14-01-11, 07:37 AM
*subscribe*

just dont put it on gas for fucks sake :rotflol:

Paddington
14-01-11, 02:09 PM
Oh just thought I might let you know shannons has a 'club reg' insurance as well, was substantially less than limited use......

If shannons bothers to pick up the phone or call you back. :knock:


*subscribe*

just dont put it on gas for fucks sake :rotflol:

Didn't yours pull a little bit of air under the front wheel on gas?

Paddington
14-01-11, 02:16 PM
pics.

Mr Parts
14-01-11, 02:29 PM
Didn't yours pull a little bit of air under the front wheel on gas?

yes, but it had an exhaust assisted air pump bolted to the side of it! naturally aspirated rotary on gas goes like a pile of shit (been there too).

rx213b
14-01-11, 05:31 PM
If shannons bothers to pick up the phone or call you back. :knock:



What're you doing wrong? I've got through every time without having to wait :w:

aaron_hogan
14-01-11, 08:50 PM
DAY FOURTEEN: 14/1/11 STRUTS IN

With a little assistance the struts were changed over tonight. I pulled the originals apart to find they had monroe gas inserts.

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7281/img0690h.th.jpg (http://img402.imageshack.us/i/img0690h.jpg/)

Also rigged up the battery. Got headlights, parkers, tail lights, horn, horn again, and some more horn. It seems the horn had something to prove and kept going off unexpectedly. The dash lit up. The wipers wiped on all settings. The tail lights worked. I couldn't get indicators or hazards but i'm putting that down to an earth connection somewhere.

Fingers crossed for good weather and the motor *should* be in tomoz.

Paddington
15-01-11, 09:19 AM
What're you doing wrong? I've got through every time without having to wait :w:

No idea. I rung up the number for a quote and other stuff, got some guy called Craig or something, he was all flustered and shit, didn't know what the hell he was doing, took my number and said he'd ring me back. Waited 2 days, fuck them, e-mailed Lumely or whatever the other mob is, they rung me up on new years day, multiple quote options over the phone, full comp at agreed value blah blah blah blah $120 bucks. Sweet! FUCK YOU SHANNONS! :)



... horn, horn again, and some more horn. It seems the horn had something to prove and kept going off unexpectedly.

Fingers crossed for good weather and the motor *should* be in tomoz.

I should be able to swing past late Sunday. I want to finish part of the front loom on the wagon. You forgot even more horn.

rx213b
15-01-11, 06:31 PM
This is the wrong thread for it, but took the blue shitter for a run down the bypass to my motor trimmer.....who nicely made me a new handbrake boot.

Boost is addictive :)

ALLMTR
15-01-11, 06:45 PM
My cousin had a boil lanced on his arm in August

rx213b
15-01-11, 06:51 PM
did it hurt?

aaron_hogan
15-01-11, 07:22 PM
My cousin had a boil lanced on his arm in August

Mate that is nothing. Back in year 10 a friend was bitten by a spider the week before he went on student exchange. In his first week, during gym class, the massive infected bite was hit by a stray dodge-ball. The explosion of puss and blood pretty much had ruined any chance of those kids ever coming to Australia as they were convinced the local fauna were all likely to kill them.

Amazingly, he still managed to get laid after that episode.

/cool stories hansel(s)



DAY FIFTEEN: 15/1/11 Fuck. This. Humidity.

It was ridiculously steamy and i don't function well in heat/humidity (absolute mental Michael Douglas falling down type of reactions). At least i'm mature enough to realise when the hulk is about to appear these days and I set down the tools or just walk away from the job for a bit. I tried to find other things to do. A walk around Pick-A-Part seemed like a good idea so set off in that direction via Darby's.

Rather than just quote me on the brakes, Darby's just went ahead and reco'd the ONE brake that i left there. That kind of boxed me in to get the other one done. I just wanted a kit and if the callipers were crook, i had planned to just get replacements. *Sigh* - safety items remember - At least i know they're 100% its just that it was money i didn't intend on spending.

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/6927/img0688jo.th.jpg (http://img695.imageshack.us/i/img0688jo.jpg/)

But they had the lines made up and a set of Bendix General CT pads there and waiting (pad# DB 62 GCT).

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/4589/img0686p.th.jpg (http://img209.imageshack.us/i/img0686p.jpg/)

Here you can see the two different thread pitches.

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/2160/img0687e.th.jpg (http://img443.imageshack.us/i/img0687e.jpg/)

This kind of rendered the trip to Pick-A-Part useless. Got home and couldn't face the prospect of baking in the sun so I waited it out until after 5pm to get back on it.

I had a good flywheel and clutch so pulled that out ready to remove the auto flex plate in the morning.

Put the engine crossmember in. This is always a shitfight because its sandwiched between the rails and the torsion bar so you have to fight gravity and the various forces acting to mis-align the holes. After a bit of swearing, clever use of the jack and some leverage, it went in and i called it a day.

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/2545/img0689xp.th.jpg (http://img513.imageshack.us/i/img0689xp.jpg/)

Back to it tomorrow. I've only got a half day to get this motor in so i won't be too precious about paint stripping the engine. It also rules out doing any wiring or fitting the exhaust. Its going to have be an early start.

Paddington
15-01-11, 10:19 PM
Rather than just quote me on the brakes, Darby's just went ahead and reco'd the ONE brake that i left there. That kind of boxed me in to get the other one done. I just wanted a kit and if the callipers were crook, i had planned to just get replacements. *Sigh* - safety items remember - At least i know they're 100% its just that it was money i didn't intend on spending.



ahhh fucken hell. I hate it when tradies or trade places don't listen. I'll buzz ya tomorrow.

aaron_hogan
16-01-11, 07:58 PM
DAY SIXTEEN: 16/1/11 MOTOR IS IN

Started the day early, out to the shed to collect the lightened flywheel (surface ground some years back and unused).

Ah fuck, forgot about the spigot bearing. Its a needle roller type and you can't use the grease trick to remove them. Lucky I have a hydraulic lifter tool that suits the job. Just insert, tighten and use the slide hammer to tug out the spigot bearing. Had to raid one from another motor.

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/2214/img0693d.th.jpg (http://img340.imageshack.us/i/img0693d.jpg/)

Although after getting it out I forgot to take note of which end was which so stuffed around reading the workshop manual (no clues, not covered) and then looking at the other engines to determine if there was a right and wrong way to insert it. I put it in with the bevelled edge facing out which made the most sense.

I also have an old input shaft which doubles as a pilot installer and a clutch alignment tool.

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/8554/img0696b.th.jpg (http://img827.imageshack.us/i/img0696b.jpg/)

Having sorted out fitting up a used clutch it was time to drop it in the car by 12.30. - Although i fitted up the master and booster using new copper washers while it was easy to get at -

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/3001/img0700gx.th.jpg (http://img838.imageshack.us/i/img0700gx.jpg/)http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/9513/img0701lm.th.jpg (http://img29.imageshack.us/i/img0701lm.jpg/)

..and then it was time to head off to a bbq so had to leave it at that. Otherwise I could have got a gearbox in or some wiring done. Easy to deal with these smaller jobs mid week anyway.

slikrx
17-01-11, 09:03 AM
Comming along nicely mate

aaron_hogan
17-01-11, 01:03 PM
Cheers mate.

Separately, I wanted to respond to something Broomy said in another thread. It wasn't directed at me but he raises such a good point I thought i'd drop it here:


Some of these 'race' cars will probably be built with questionable engineering ethics due to budget constraints, and safety is normally not thought of because its expensive.

Some, not all. Especially this one.

I just want to encourage all comers that you really need to pay attention to safety items. Afterall, you're going to be driving a pos as hard as it can go. This activity is going to exploit any defects or deficiencies and I'd hate to think that an accident could be caused for the sake of a thorough once-over on all the steering, brake, suspension and other safety items/fail points.

While $2 buck racing is fun, the party stops if someone gets hurt.

By all means run the car with dodgy parts but please make sure you invest in decent personal protective gear, fire extinguishers and make the car itself as safe as you possibly can (i'll be pissed if anyone oils the track!). Then go hard at it.

I "know" this car now. I know i've addressed the front end and brakes with the rear end close behind. I know the tires are a-ok. Before it even had a motor I was onto making sure it would stop, turn and handle. Its just not worth an accident for the sake of a loose nut or missing split pin.

I'm reminded of my parents and their ZL fairlane (lol at Broomy's old "ZL challenge"). They needed to do an interstate trip towing a horse float with 2 horses. Dad had the front end worked on by a joint in Geelong. Somewhere on the Hume in NSW the tie rod literally dropped out of the stub axle and they narrowly avoided an accident. All for the sake of a split pin which was forgotten and a nut obviously not tightened enough.

Paddington
17-01-11, 01:25 PM
More pictures:

Paddington
17-01-11, 01:26 PM
and again. I snapped hoges with his balljoints is serious business face.

aaron_hogan
17-01-11, 02:16 PM
ROFL...no wait...ROFWithFuckingSoreNeck

What i would give for a hoist knowing i have to still drop those tie-rods and the steering box :( No matter, should be a relatively quick job to clean them up. Steering box is ok, just a paint up while its out. Tie rods, idler and pitman need boots and a lube up. Still got to lob a gearbox up there and an old set of extractors.

Battery was only in for testing hence quick dodgy connection with vice-grips. The leads and terminals were too short/wrong side/wrong (big 660CCA) battery etc. I will just wire it to suit with enough length for any terminals when the time comes.

Car is more progressed than those photos show (last friday night?).

Mr Parts
17-01-11, 04:05 PM
(lol at Broomy's old "ZL challenge"). .

had a few contenders for the title from that, but i lost all their pictures LOL still got a few of mine but

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv129/Mr_parts/DSC02640.jpg

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv129/Mr_parts/DSC02630.jpg


serious business face looks serious

good to see some ventilated rotors on the front. at least this thing will continue to stop after more than 3 pushes of the middle pedal!

so.... bridgeport or bust? shot of gas would smoke it straight into the 12's ;)

aaron_hogan
17-01-11, 07:16 PM
Bwahahahaha. DIE CAR DIE! While not a ZL one of my recent shitter dailys was an XF ghia wagon - with a ZL front - alternator failed, ecu went nuts, threw stray spark, backfired on LGP, assploded the AFM, caught the bonnet insulation on fire, caught wiring on fire. I stood there and yelled at it "BURN YOU MOTHERFUCKING PIECE OF SHIT SEE WHAT I FUCKIN CARE!". I was half pissing myself laughing. Did i mention I was towing at the time and had blocked a whole lane of Centre Road? Meanwhile my mate launches out of the car with a half bottle of coke, douses the engine bay and manages to put most of the fire out. I was pissed. I wanted to see it burn to the ground. Amazingly I got it going and literally limped it back to his place about 10 kays away. A few bodgey fixes saw that thing serve another year of duty before multiple gearbox fails finally put me into a decent tow car.

* * * * * * *

I like the way you think (BP and nawz). I'll have to get it up and running first, even with a basic engine. I can evolve it from there within the budget.

I'm just resistant to the "I'm gunna...." approach. Would rather do, then show the result.

* * * * * * *

DAY SEVENTEEN: 17/1/11 MINI UPDATE

Not heaps to report. Late night in the office and a couple of long phone calls once home robbed me of evening daylight.

Waiting to get my stray calliper back in the morning so thinking of brakes I pulled down the spare drums, marking the key parts with a paint pen and bagging the parts in ziplock bags. With any luck i'll have a short day and run the backing plates through the blaster so they're obviously tidied up.

http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/2289/img0704v.th.jpg (http://img545.imageshack.us/i/img0704v.jpg/)

Camera went flat part way through so pics will be delayed.

ALLMTR
17-01-11, 07:21 PM
Lovin the updates!

rx213b
17-01-11, 07:39 PM
I do remember the old ZL but don't remember the story behind it....still a pisser looking at the photo's

Paddington
18-01-11, 05:19 AM
I too remember that broken wheel photo from years ago on ausrotary. Actually thought about it the other day. Isn't that from when you dumped it in Ballarat or Bendigo broomy?

I'll have to put a pic up of aaron's old wagon dieing somewhere between Melbourne and Seymour. lollering at multiple gearbox fails. that poor wagon.

rx213b
18-01-11, 06:23 AM
I'll leave it up to broomy to say the whole story, but from memory he cbf'd changing a flat tyre and that was the result after the rim was half worn off :D

Mr Parts
18-01-11, 07:02 AM
two days before the incident i was at a vibrant night spot on the st kilda foreshore known as twister for a mates 21st afterparty. I drove, and upon leaving, with the car full of drunk knob heads, i was promptly told to hang it out turning onto beach rd, or to go forth and multiply.

i complied.

what i didnt know is there was a slow leak in the rear tyre (because it was a ZL fairlane, and the only maintanance it got was when the lifters got so noisey, i would eventually add oil to the empty sump to shut it up). The extreme weight coupled with the near flat tyre combined with the centriprical forces at play when you attempt to do a scandinavian flick around a 90 degree turn in a 3 tonne land barge caused the tyre to pop straight off the rim. Luckily there was a spare, and after a few drunken louts coming over and asking if we needed an waaaaaaaambulance because we almost died (did a 720 in the middle of beach rd, only travelling at about 10 km/h, just looked impressive because it was doing it on the rim), changed tyre and went home.

car was just about to be replaced by my other vl turbo i had just completed, so didnt want to spend any extra money i didnt have to on this shit pile of aids and crusty dick cheese car known as zl fairlane. went to local middle east tyre place and got used tyre put on rim. about half a day later, the spare i had put on went flat. so i put the second hand spare on.

Travelling up to bendigo at about midnight, after working an 8 hour shift, hurtling down the calder at about 130 km/h, like an act of revenge for ancestors killing so many of theirs in WW2, the turks replacement tyre blew up without warning. slowed down, inspected the damage, and went to get the spare. remembered it was flat. FUCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK

looked at the big sign just ahead, and it said bendigo 18km. i knew it was about 20ish km from this sign to where i needed to get, and fucked if i wanted to sit around just outside a hick town at midnight waiting to be ass raped by cletus and his pet kangaroo. So decieded that i would travel at 20 km/h on the shoulder of the fwy and see how i went for a kilometer. Got a click down the road, seemed no problems. the delaminated tyre was still turning with the wheel, just making a bit of noise. so i continued.

now im not a man renowed for patients, so after being overtaken by an elderly lady driving a fucking datsun 120y i said fuck this shit and decieded that this tyre was fine.

after catching up and overtaking most of the traffic going 60km/h thru bendigo, i noticed some sparks coming up in the mirror, but hardly any. car was driving fine anyway, so kept driving.

car actually drove perfect all the way, turning corners with no hassle.

got to where i needed to get, and noticed it was sitting on a fair angle when i got out. went around to inspect damage and saw the wheel. laughed and just walked off.

what had happened is the tyre had totally given way, gotten jammed in there, and then locked the wheel. the wheel then ground its way down (inc the disc rotor too) to the arm basically.

all up i drove 23 km with only 3 wheels turning. during that time i overtook more cars than overtook me, and got to where i was going without being any later than if i had 4 good round ones underneath me.

caught the train home the next day and didnt give a rats ass about the pile of crap and was going to leave it there for eternity.
Later that day the police rang. they said my car must have been stolen and they have found it in bendigo and it looks pretty bad with damage to the passanger door lock and the front wheel of the car totally ruined. I said you are mistaken officer, i know where it is thanks, do you want a free ZL fairlane by any chance? After rendering the law man speechless, i was later called by the city council who said it needed to be moved or would be towed, at my cost. I told them to just take it and keep it, but they said it was registered to me, so it is my responsibility. i said fair enough and would take care of it for them.

so after i called vic roads and cancelled the rego, and pocketed a hefty $59 of remaining rego (probably double of what the car is worth), i went up to bendigo, removed the battery (century extra heavy duty!), took a few photos of it, and promptly called the council to let them know i had left something on the nature strip at that location for hard rubbish collection.

that was the last i ever heard about it.

slikrx
18-01-11, 07:32 AM
Epic fairlaine story is still epic after all these years

Paddington
18-01-11, 10:17 AM
I still giggle at the "courier" stickers on the door.

here is aaron's beast in all of it's glory. This was after the engine bay fire I think? This was when we went up to bumfuck to pick up yet another Mazda.
After the wagon :wayned: itself, I had to get the old man to cruise up in the spanish wanker. We went up the next day and got the wagon.

(yes that is transmission fluid leaking/burning in different shots).

I think hoges drove about, what, 20 kays in 1st gear to the servo still towing the car on the trailer?

I'm also posting this as I think some parts from the green wagon may/have ended up on the coupe that aaron is building.

Mr Parts
18-01-11, 10:37 AM
courier sticker came about after a heavily heavily tanned shaved ape in the city mascarading as a human by wearing a thinly veiled disguise as a parking inspector said i cannot park my vehicle where it was, as it was reserved for courier's only.

i went to bunnings city store, bought C O U R I E R letterbox stickers, stuck them on, and next night when he came over to book me (they just sit there like the second class citizens they are every night) i told him i was a courier and to fuck off back to the cave he came from.

that ended me getting fines in the CBD for parking in 'drop off' zones.



wagon looks good! at least you have always been a man of rotary style hoges with all these rx4/929's. every other muppet always crapping on about rx3's and rx2's, shove those right up your ass. mazda's only real 'muscle car'! cant beat an rx4 :)

aaron_hogan
18-01-11, 01:28 PM
Agreed. RX4 is the epitome of Mazda muscle. I just hate all the references to it being "heavy"....its a tin can as much as an RX3 is.

These shots are from the day the C9 auto died. It leaked the ATF out alsmost as fast as it went back in. Amazingly we went from Melbourne to Corowa and back about as far as Shepparton before it started spewing ATF. The road trip was to pick up the green RX-929 wagon that now graces Geoff's driveway (i bought it for all the rotor/club car parts).

HoonBoy
18-01-11, 01:40 PM
I used an XF to tow once, it killed the gearbox. I used an XD to tow once, it killed the gearbox. At least I managed to get home both times.

aaron_hogan
18-01-11, 07:04 PM
UPDATE: 18/1/11

Picked up the calliper and some calliper paint. Painted them up after taping over the fittings and dust seals but was ok with overspray on the old pads.

http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/338/img0702a.th.jpg (http://img375.imageshack.us/i/img0702a.jpg/)

Here you see them along with the old pads. Given the amount of rust on there, I'm thinking they might be metal king pads. It was pretty straight forward to swap out the pads. Just a tap on the retainer pins, pull the spring/shim out and out drop the pads.

I left my "hook tool" in the photo accidentally but this is one of my favourite tools so i don't mind yabbering on about it. I came across these when i used to tint windows. As a general tool they have a lot of uses and i'm always reaching for it. Strongly recommend you have one of these in your tool box.

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5098/img0705p.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/i/img0705p.jpg/)

Tried to get some wheel studs (still no joy).

Played around with the torque rod/2 link idea. I tried RX7 upper links and capella upper links, with the latter looking more suitable. The RX7 mounts i lopped off a bent diff housing have a different diameter axle tube so need a little re-shaping or just made from scratch to fit the job. Getting a clearer picture of how I'd like to approach this mod.

Jim
18-01-11, 07:13 PM
I used an XF to tow once, it killed the gearbox. I used an XD to tow once, it killed the gearbox. At least I managed to get home both times.

must be you mate, I towed my rally car all over NSW for 2 years behind my $100 250 C4 auto transit van.

Oh wait, yeah, I did replace the gearbox once...

Paddington
18-01-11, 07:18 PM
Played around with the torque rod/2 link idea. I tried RX7 upper links and capella upper links, with the latter looking more suitable. The RX7 mounts i lopped off a bent diff housing have a different diameter axle tube so need a little re-shaping or just made from scratch to fit the job. Getting a clearer picture of how I'd like to approach this mod.

do everything else first I reckon.

I found out today that I have a broken engine bolt in the 'saki. If I find a decent bolt shop I'll ask about wheel bolts.

pics:

aaron_hogan
18-01-11, 08:05 PM
yeah yeah fair enough but I have had the rx7 and capella trailing arms kicking around in the back of the cruiser for weeks. As it got dark, i thought i'd just throw the bits under there to see what was what.

I will cover the rear end soon enough (diff centre, axles, brakes, springs, tramp bars). From there its an easy step up to fab the 2-link.

slikrx
19-01-11, 06:31 AM
Aye aaron give me a call or drop over (ps I have moved) re 2 link. I got a few ideas I can show ya as I did 808 and I got some left over bits. So I can show ya the easy & cheap way to do it :)
Oh yeah forgort to mention I have some tools that ya may wanna borrow to make it easier

aaron_hogan
19-01-11, 09:30 PM
UPDATE 19/1/11: BLOODY VOLVO'S

Fitting up the brakes I decided to test fit the new hard lines into the callipers and bend them to shape. Hit a snag at the get go. Now either i'm a pussy and just need to force them OR we have potentially the wrong flare nut threads here. They just don't want to start in the threads and when they catch they appear to be stripping the thread on the nuts after a 1/4 turn. :mad:

The ends with the Mazda coarse thread are correct and go together easily into the new rubber lines. Just the end with the fine thread doesn't want to go into the ovlov callipers. And I'm doing it with the pipes dead straight and no tension on them, all apart on the bench - is this normal or is there a metric and an imperial thread that is really close but not compatible?

But I stopped, took a breath and instead just fitted up the callipers and on the drivers side also the calliper bracket which i had removed years earlier to trial fit on the RX3 strut, trace a copy for laser cutting and to fiddle with the idea of s4 RX7 brakes. All back together, greased and the missing split pin was replaced (it pays to be thorough, I could have easily missed that had i not pulled the grease cap!).

Before i packed everything away for the night I put the car up on stands ready for the gearbox to go in. I think i need to get that and the tail shaft in pronto. Tail shaft may be the front of one and the rear of another simply a case of splitting them at the middle universal joint to mix and match.

I also forgot to mention in yesterday's update that I gave the 4.44 diff centre a good scrub down in prep for a lick of paint. Noticed the flange dust cap is loose and has been so for some time by the look of it. I'll have to find out if i can remove the flange without upsetting the pinion...if anyone knows please sing out. My only other though is to invert the diff, roughly centre it, and then give it a tack with the mig.

No time for anything else tonight. A desperate call for assistance to locate a VN radiator for my sister's (nopics) daily saw to that.

HoonBoy
19-01-11, 09:50 PM
Yep, if you get the metric/imperial thread mixed up, it will be close but no cigar. I just can't remember which combo of nut/hole is tight like you have and which combo is loose and obvioulsy wrong. Either way you need to change them to match.

Paddington
20-01-11, 04:57 AM
that sounds like a thundercunt with the line hoges, might have to make a trip back to Darby's by the sound of it.

If it helps, my K&N filters for the rover didn't fit and I lost a nut and a special washer in the engine bay while trying to put the new alternator in.

I just shut the bonnet and walked away.

Mr Parts
20-01-11, 06:08 AM
The ends with the Mazda coarse thread are correct and go together easily into the new rubber lines. Just the end with the fine thread doesn't want to go into the ovlov callipers. And I'm doing it with the pipes dead straight and no tension on them, all apart on the bench - is this normal or is there a metric and an imperial thread that is really close but not compatible? .

its the same with mazda clutch master cyl, there is metric fine and course, both just go in a few turns, then catch if you have the wrong one.

1/8 BSP and 1/8 NPT are also near on identicle (BSP is 28 tpi and NPT is 27 tpi i think).

the small stuff is a total pain in the ass.

drop in to vpw one day and see if they can match it. lots of different metric, imperial etc threads to choose from in the PFE range.

aaron_hogan
20-01-11, 08:35 AM
UPDATE 20/1/11 (PART ONE)

Took a caliper, the hard lines the soft lines back to Darby's. To their credit they realised the problem immediately. They went straight to the box of fittings and discovered that someone had, by mistake, dropped a few of the wrong fittings into the box. It was just a case of cut-change-flare. Took all of 5 mins and i got an apology for the run around. This is why i like these guys.

Then i detoured past the fastener place in Waterdale Road Heidelberg West. Turns out i needed 12x1.5mm bolts. List price $13.00 each! Did me a deal and I got 20 of them plus some other bolts for the twin torsion bar for $40 all up.

Later tonight I'll come back with a further update of bending the lines to suit and fitting up the wheel studs (with pics).

aaron_hogan
20-01-11, 08:53 PM
UPDATE 20/1/11 (PART TWO)

I was super motivated to carry on with the brake lines and studs.

To get the brake lines fitted up I could have used the old lines as a guide but that was always going to be dicey because i recall these brakes were not fitted properly when i bought my RX4. Because 13" steel wheels don't fit over the volvo callipers they had just left them unbolted and dangling.

So the way to bend them up real nice was to use my smarts. Here is an old distribution block from the wagon with no brakes. All i did was thread the lines in straight and use it to get a good grip on the line. Then just bent to shape. I took care to make sure i had access to the mounting bolts and that the lines didn't rub or have any sharp bends.

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/9897/img0706gh.th.jpg (http://img710.imageshack.us/i/img0706gh.jpg/)http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/8883/img0707ai.th.jpg (http://img39.imageshack.us/i/img0707ai.jpg/)

I had it lined up pretty much spot on and only needed a little tweaking to get them to line up perfectly. To test that i fitted up the soft lines and the retainer clips. Very happy with the results.

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/4448/img0712l.th.jpg (http://img340.imageshack.us/i/img0712l.jpg/)

Moving onto the wheel studs. Here is a pic illustrating the variety of wheel nuts and studs. I just didn't trust using the lock nut studs. I wasn't sure they were high tensile or meant to be used on all four studs. Remembering this car is likely going to get the locker and is going to see some strip action, the idea of breaking a wheel stud or losing a wheel is a frightening thought. (The first and only time I've had a wheel came off - I heard a knock, slowed down, came to an almost halt when the wheel fell off and the car dropped to the drum. Geoff and I couldn't stop laughing in that instance. That happening at 100km/h is not a funny thought.

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/3377/img0709o.th.jpg (http://img688.imageshack.us/i/img0709o.jpg/)

If you're like me and struggle with tight threads take a hint as i did a while back - start using taps.

I tapped all the old wheel bolt holes with a taper tap. These axles had sat around a while and there was corrosion and shit in the threads to the point where it was visible how much crud came out.

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/1083/img0716x.th.jpg (http://img89.imageshack.us/i/img0716x.jpg/)

I moved onto hitting it with a wire wheel. Part of that idea is that i wasn't sure if i'd need to tack weld the bolts in or not and wanted a clean surface. After the wire wheel i gave it a squirt of brake kleen.

Here is the *helper*. This little guy just has to be involved in everything i do.

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/6554/img0714lg.th.jpg (http://img24.imageshack.us/i/img0714lg.jpg/)

Threading the bolts in from the back of the axle flange was a breeze now that the threads were tapped clear. I left a little thread exposed and drizzled on some locktite.

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/3226/img0717k.th.jpg (http://img443.imageshack.us/i/img0717k.jpg/)

Then tighten them all up. voila! job done.

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/6901/img0718r.th.jpg (http://img84.imageshack.us/i/img0718r.jpg/)

Momus
20-01-11, 09:00 PM
its the same with mazda clutch master cyl, there is metric fine and course, both just go in a few turns, then catch if you have the wrong one.

1/8 BSP and 1/8 NPT are also near on identicle (BSP is 28 tpi and NPT is 27 tpi i think).

the small stuff is a total pain in the ass.

drop in to vpw one day and see if they can match it. lots of different metric, imperial etc threads to choose from in the PFE range.


Volvo calipers are 3/8 unf usually. You probably have 10 x 1.0 tube nuts.
This is not correct but running a 10 x 1.0 bottoming tap down will be usable. Otherwise use a 3/8" sleeve nut. They inhabit old Holdens and Falcons.

aaron_hogan
20-01-11, 09:51 PM
Melb PF crew - tire kicking BBQ - 26 Jan - be there!

now posted in "PF meets"

Paddington
21-01-11, 05:06 AM
To this day I still kick myself that I didn't get *that* particular wheel parting incident on camera. Fuck it was hilarious at the time, but scary too when you think about it. Didn't Jed's mate with the RX-7 have one of those "nice products" screw in wheelstud adaptors sheer off and cause the wheel to fall off at heathcote? Scary.

I have a signed permission slip to be there on the 26th. Tonight still a go?

ALLMTR
21-01-11, 09:05 PM
13.7

aaron_hogan
21-01-11, 10:20 PM
UPDATE 21/1/11: Gearboxing

There's no pics tonight. An RX5 gearbox was shoved under the car and with geoff's assistance wrestled into place.

Now with the engine and gearbox together a couple of small problems have emerged:

The RX7 air filter was touching the brake master reservoir.
The pollution shit was touching the RH shock tower/chassis rail.
The engine was on an angle and the gearbox off centre.

This basically means I can't run this carby or manifold as easily as I intended and I need to go through my spares to find something that will fit. Maybe a pre-pollution manifold will do. At least it will give me a chance to confirm porting (stock or mild extend).

aaron_hogan
21-01-11, 10:23 PM
13.7

if it only does that....zzzz

will freely admit defeat and then step it up to the spares worth >$1300.....per item.

but there is no challenge in that approach. Will persist with the spirit of the challenge as far as possible before I cave in.

MRMOPARMAN
21-01-11, 10:40 PM
UPDATE 21/1/11: fucking off pollution shit

The pollution shit wanted to be thrown in the bin, then set on fire.


fixed :D

aaron_hogan
21-01-11, 11:10 PM
*shakes fist*
You've stolen my thunder!
That was tomorrrow's update.

Paddington
22-01-11, 06:26 AM
thundercunt has confirmed that I can't use his myfag3 while he's away. I'll be at home if you need a hand hoges.

aaron_hogan
22-01-11, 07:33 PM
UPDATE 22/1/11:

So there was a part of the emissions hanging off the RX7 manifold that was fouling on the chassis rail (sorta). This prevented the heater hose bypass from sitting in its normal location. And the vac line to the booster was hitting the steering box. These were the culprits for the driveline not sitting square.

But to even get access to the emissions part (some sort of valve from the air pump) I had to pull the whole carby and manifold off. Then i pulled the "rats nest" off too and left the block naked. Except for the 12a-13b turbo adaptor plate. This also let me see some more of the motor and it looks like a series 4 turbo block with a series 5 rotor housing on the front. The s5 just has a little boss for the knock sensor otherwise there's no difference.

The coils seemed like a logical thing to mount up at this point. I had to go through a few coil brackets until i found the right one for the job and I toyed with mounting the coils in different locations but settled on the factory location. I used BOSCH GT40R coils because thats what was came from the RX7. I also stopped short of adding a third coil. Though i may run a modified ignition down the track (individual leading coils + single trailing coil).

Tried to remove the tie rods and drag link off pitman arm. No joy, stuck solid and couldn't get a proper swing with the BFH. Rationalised the only way I could do this was to drop the steering box and the idler arm. And I had to do this before the extractors went in.

As the day was heating up I found a couple of other things to do instead of laying under the car any longer.

So rather than make a mess by pulling shit apart, I started with cleaning up a spare steering box. It just copped a hit with degreaser, then a blast with compressed air, followed by wire brushing, handy andy, brake kleen and then some engine enamel. Capped it off with a new boot on the pitman.

Then I went through the same process with the 4.44 diff centre. Just to clean it up prior to installing it over the next week or so.

Preparation like this just makes the job go smoothly.

Paddington
23-01-11, 09:42 AM
Did you use the steering box out of the wagon (its in the big ziplock bag on your driveway). That one had a backing plate with it too (that went inside the wheelarch).

ALLMTR
23-01-11, 04:55 PM
Steering box in the driveway? You're doing it wrong!

HoonBoy
23-01-11, 05:32 PM
It's an old trick taking a new turn...

jzx83
23-01-11, 08:23 PM
Subvert the dominant paradigm, or some shit like that. ;)

Paddington
23-01-11, 10:13 PM
Steering box in the driveway? You're doing it wrong!

it's how we 'box in Melbourne.

RotorBoy
23-01-11, 10:19 PM
Did you use the steering box out of the wagon (its in the big ziplock bag on your driveway). That one had a backing plate with it too (that went inside the wheelarch).

Is the plate your talking about to stop the cracking and flexing of the rail/steering box mount?

morerevsm3
24-01-11, 01:18 AM
It's an old trick taking a new turn...

he was given a bum steer?

aaron_hogan
24-01-11, 07:46 AM
(late) UPDATE 23/1/11

Steering box went in. yes that plate goes on the rail to stiffen up steering. I've never seen a cracked rail on any RX4 or 929 whether it was fitted or not. I chose not to use Geoff's donated steering box because the pitman was a little rough. I already had another box that felt tight and had a good pitman that just needed a fresh boot.

Correct RX4 gearbox crossmember fitted. Although it turns out i'm missing one of the correct rubber insulators. I can always solid mount the cross member to the body. I had just tacked in the 929 crossmember to hold the gearbox in place earlier and it left the drive line on a sagging angle (not by much).

Tried to fit the exhaust but due to the length of it i need a little more height or otherwise to drop the nose of the car. I need to fit this before the drag link goes back in.

I tightened up the brake lines and did some other tinkering. Moved the coils and refitted the radiator seen in earlier pics. The RX7 oil cooler isn't a direct bolt up and i'll need to make some simple brackets which will take up the difference in width, but drop the cooler ~50mm.

For a carby i might be able to just make up a couple of blank off plates. Otherwise i need the opportunity to go through some old boxes of junk that might yield an early pre-pollution 12a manifold (this 13b is wearing an adaptor to run 12a manifold).

Alternatively a mate of mine has offered to loan me a 48IDA weber on a 12a manifold - although its jetted to suit a bridgy. If i use this it may be a bit boggy and foul plugs. So i've got a mixed feeling about using it.

From here on out the updates may slow down a little. I've done something or other to the car every day during January. I've got the major stuff in but I can now afford to ease back and just focus on getting it running.

:h5:

Paddington
24-01-11, 07:48 AM
Is the plate your talking about to stop the cracking and flexing of the rail/steering box mount?

yes, though I've noticed that most 929s and RX-4s don't have one. I cut up a 929 wagon for parts and it didn't have one, I don't think aaron's 929 coupe has one and I don't think his RX-4 coupe has one either.

Paddington
24-01-11, 07:52 AM
remember that young bloke I was telling you about hoges that had the really nice Capella, then sold that and bought the rough RX-2 off Jed, but he had that champagne colour 808? I bought his 48ida and it had been jetted for a bridgy, I put it on one of Jed's EP's and the thing detonated it's head off.

aaron_hogan
24-01-11, 07:53 AM
I think they started using it late in '74. The '75 RX4 has it. The '76 929 has it.

By some freak of coincidence most of the coupes i've had (and there's been a few) have all been around 2/74 builds.

Hiroshima may have done a big run of RHD export cars at that time?

jzx83
24-01-11, 07:30 PM
it's how we 'box in Melbourne.

I think the wallaby in Tope Street may disagree.


Good to see all the updates Guys. Don't slow down too much.

aaron_hogan
24-01-11, 08:45 PM
Good to see all the updates Guys. Don't slow down too much.

Nah I'll keep at it. I'm still hugely motivated to fire her up!

I just got reminded I still have two outstanding assignments from last year, since I don't want to piss away thousands on a uni subject for the sake of 2000 words each, i'll have to put a bit of effort in there too. Although i decided to put the brakes on study for this semester. As it is things look promising for my next promotion anyway without need for the massive time commitment that is post-grad uni.

Coming posts will cover:
Diff/rear brakes
Tail shaft
Fuel system
Wiring
Rear suspension
Start up/Chasing down little issues

Then we kick into gear with go fast stuff. This is where the remainder of the budget will go.

Paddington
25-01-11, 08:39 PM
I found these Hoges and realised I hadn't put them up.

Gearbox going in under careful supervision:

Paddington
25-01-11, 09:00 PM
It's ok Hoges, I wont put up *that picture of you performing slight Dodgyness* :yup:

aaron_hogan
25-01-11, 09:15 PM
Oh, that one where I penised the exhaust?:gay:

fuckacar.jpg

Thanks for posting those pics. I look like a hunch back *Urgghhaa! The BELLS!* All i'm doing is cleaning up some surface rust on the splines and changing over the seized throwout bearing, greasing the necessary parts. Also careful eyes will see there is a rotor hiding on my doorstep! I am living the life of Bachelor Toad (google it). Spewing i missed the chance to photo the cat coming out of the gearbox hole - might have to stage it when the box comes out - will be like "ceiling cat" except "gearbox cat - is watching you masturbate" lol.

Here you see one of the handy workshop tools that I've accumulated - the ABW engine/box support bar. Picked it up on ebay from some Mechanic that was closing down. Paid a tidy $100 for that. It makes life pretty easy for setting up driveline angles, changing engine mounts and in this case, dropping the motor enough to mate up the gearbox. I don't use it very often so if anyone needs to borrow it just sing out.

Once we had it sort of lined up on the motor (and it was a shit fight for a min there) I used the support bar to crank up the height to where it should be. Then pulled up the box evenly and it went on easily enough.

The problem was from under the car i couldn't see that the motor was off its centre line. Once I got an eyeful of the emissions stuff being in the way I understood what was going on.

Paddington
25-01-11, 10:25 PM
Also careful eyes will see there is a rotor hiding on my doorstep!

It's not in the loungeroom, bachelor pad fail. ;)

morerevsm3
25-01-11, 10:59 PM
might have to stage it when the box comes out - will be like "ceiling cat" except "gearbox cat - is watching you mazdabate" lol.

fixed :p

ALLMTR
28-01-11, 08:05 PM
Where is our daily update?

Paddington
28-01-11, 08:23 PM
He's been crook and had to deal with fuckin dumb cunts at work.

morerevsm3
28-01-11, 08:44 PM
He's been crook and had to deal with fuckin dumb cunts at work.

how come he doesn't get to fuck the smart ones?

HoonBoy
28-01-11, 09:05 PM
He works with shit cunt 4?

MartyRX2
01-02-11, 07:02 AM
Watching with interest.

aaron_hogan
03-02-11, 11:51 AM
UPDATE 3/2/11: SAD NEWS :(

I know this is PF and not "Cat Forums" but everyone that came to the tire kickin' bbq met my little mate - Otter. He was hanging around with us most of the day.

After an exceptionally shit couple of days at work after the bbq, I had some other mates over to clean up the rest of the steaks and snags on the weekend. After we went inside just on dark I headed back out to call my little buddy in. i thought he was just in the front yard or maybe next door.

Now oddly enough for a cat, he is fairly obedient and comes when called. But came out from across the road. A Taxi outta fuckin' nowhere knocked the poor little guy over right in front of me. Basically at the edge of the driveway. My heart just sank.

Took one look and knew he was done for - chased the taxi down and gave him a serve - took every bit of restraint not to pull his keys out of the ignition and him out the window. I won't comment further (publicly) on my actions.

Ran back to the house/driveway. Mates were standing there trying to stop me from looking at him but i picked him up and held him until he was gone. There were a few death rattles and my mates super-awesome-canadian nopics was prepared to drive me across town to the all night vet to make sure he was gone properly. We took off but after 5 mins he was gone for good anyway.

We came back to see mates had washed the blood off the road (one is a firey - force of habit), the taxi still parked down the street, a bunch of my neighbours and their mates were down there at the taxi and I haven't yet heard the full story of what was said but I gather they told him he best evacuate the area before i return. My mates heard someone say "Go get da Pistol" and thought that was the same as "get a fiream" not realising thats a nickname. Driver may have thought the same thing.

I'll really miss that little fella, cried my eyes out that night and I'm still really down about it. I've struggled to do anything bar sink myself into my work as a distraction.

***************
As for the car I posted a want ad on AR and turned up a few goodies. I also kept going through the hoarded bits and refining what i could use while trawling ebay flat out for go faster goodies.

The haltech was free, the intercooler free, the ignitors cost me $40, the TO4 junk parts cost me $60.

***************
Thanks for the responses and support everyone!

I don't intend for this to be a build thread - that's over at PF - but here is what I've found in my own shed, picked up on ebay, and been offered for free or cheap just to keep people interested.


s4/5 top mount cooler (Trickstar)
Haltech E6a (Tuff RX3)
4x BOSCH 008 ignition modules (SLIMER, ex-Camira's, well they had to be good for something!)
2x BOSCH HEC 715 coils
2x M&W coils
2x factory s4 L&T coils
Malpassi RR reg
Boost control solenoid
T3/GT35R manifold (very rough - needs work - no wastegate)
T3/GT35R manifold (useable not perfect - has v-band and Garrett 42mm gate)
T4 manifold open collector and has Turbosmart V-band
TO4e? 1.32 rear 0.6 front, upper limit of acceptable shaft play and needs new comp wheel
4x TO4 different sized rear housings (some v-banded) and one 0.7 front cover with comp wheel -possibly TO4s 60-1? (ebay)
Various auto trans coolers and a 10" Davies Craig thermo fan
Emissions blank offs (Buzzme)
Gaskets (Buzzme)

Looks like i still need a few things and assistance/advice:
2x series 4 turbo injectors (if these are the same as 6 port injectors let me know?)
2x 12aT injectors (hang onto them Jed)
Might need the plastic bits that go under the injectors and the rubber seals at the top? (will look closer at spares)
2/3 bar MAP sensor (will probably buy new ~$60)
water temp sensor
air temp sensor
various plugs and connectors (where can i get a variety kit of Narva weatherproof plugs?)
medium size cooler suitable for modding to water to air set up. (approx 400 x 300 if possible)
bigger than stock stally?
someone to show me how to shift kit (and transbrake?) the JATCO - maybe loan me your VB or dead box for a day to copy?
Turbo oil feed line
Turbo oil drain line & fitting or timing cover already modified
RX4/5 oil cooler (got a few s2 RX7 coolers to trade)
slicks (Jed has offered me some used 13" slicks on RX4 rims)

*****************

Looks like my rough set up will then be:
RX-929 coupe (guesstimate weigh in around 1100kg)
s4 turbo block - basically stock rebuild - can't "feel" any porting
Haltech E6a fuel and ignition, 12aT primaries.
Garrett TO4e-66 or similar combo with external gate
Water to air cooler
Jatco 3 speed
stock welded 929 24 spline diff with 4.44's
2-link
volvo brake kit
Challengers plus slicks

aaron_hogan
03-02-11, 11:58 AM
Watching with interest.

Good to see you on here.
******
Everyone welcome Marty - very clued up Aircraft Engineer/rotor head/all round top bloke.

Ben.
03-02-11, 02:45 PM
fucking shit deal aaron, your cat was pretty cool, despite being protencious (what cat knocks back pork spare ribs?) but hope the cunt of a cabby gets his serve.

anyway, back to the car, looks like you could have something pretty serious here. if the jatco in these is anything like the VL item, should be pretty easy to 'shift kit'. i know for the vlt you can buy a template and a drill bit to do your own for like $30 ( which means flog a drill bit from somehwere and start opening all the holes up for free :) )

welcome, Marty :)

Ben.
03-02-11, 02:52 PM
fuckingdoublepostcunt

rx213b
03-02-11, 03:24 PM
Sorry to hear about your cat Aaron :( I'm sure you valued his time when he was here, definitely a positive.

IRT the build.....fark me, it has gotten serious quick!

aaron_hogan
03-02-11, 04:01 PM
Yeah fussy eater or what! Can assure you it was no objection to pork because he had (more than once) tried to swipe my bacon. I have a photo of him sitting in the frying pan ffs! He knew i got it out of the fridge and wanted to get in quick.

I have shift kitted ford C4 autos based on intawebz notes that appeared on a site called burly4x4 but were actually written up by PF brainstrust member "Gregaust".

I found it all really straight forward. Had to do it because the auto was already "tricked up" and had a big stally but one day it wouldn't select any gear but reverse. Tilt tray home and decided to do some experimenting. Since i had other dead c4/c10 autos it was a case of opening up a valve body, getting your orientations right, identify the correct hole to drill in the sandwich plate, put rubber here, tweak spring there, bingo bango and she was frying tires again.

From what i can see (and i've heard it before from SlickRX too) the Jatco 3 speeder is a blatant rip of the C4 and so what works for one should work for the other provided you're comparing the same hydraulic circuits.

The 4 speeder is just the 3 speeder with an overdrive whacked on the front. The vavle body is meant to be the same between 3N71B and 4N71B.
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/9386/img0730i.th.jpg (http://img709.imageshack.us/i/img0730i.jpg/)

I'm not suggesting that modding the VB will make a 30+ year old auto hold big power when its got unknown miles on it, is only filled with OEM biscuit clutches and doesn't have a bit of VASCO or billet anywhere near it. I just want to reduce heat/slip and get solid predictable launches. *while it lasts*

aaron_hogan
03-02-11, 04:52 PM
Sorry to hear about your cat Aaron :( I'm sure you valued his time when he was here, definitely a positive.

Could not have had a better home. :sandyvag:


IRT the build.....fark me, it has gotten serious quick!

[shitjustgotserious.jpg] :yup:

had to be sure i could get the efi done within the budget. Luck, persistence, and a bit of creative engineering will see it all together quickly. Here's just some of the stuff although that is a GT35R sitting there and i don't think its fair to use it at the outset.

http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/517/img0733h.th.jpg (http://img560.imageshack.us/i/img0733h.jpg/)

Though its a week until i can get the ecu. The benefactor (TuffRX3) is moving down to Melb and its packed along with everything else. What a legend to just give it away! I suppose this thing about 2nd hand values of ecu's is odd when you consider that a new RE specific platinum sprint 500 is around the $1k mark, new, with warranty. yet some people ask close to that for butchered 2nd hand microtech gear. As with all consumer electronics eventually quality gets better and cost comes down.

I think i can dummy some more of the package together and begin making cardboard bracket templates for various things (fuel pump/reg/coils/throttle cable trans cooler and so on). Might have to look at getting or borrowing (maybe from work?) a rivnut tool. I hate self-tappers!!! One of the first things to figure out will be placement of the BOSCH 910 pump and whether or not i use the assembly (mercedes) or just the bare pump (in a ford wagon? bracket)

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/9725/img0732jb.th.jpg (http://img213.imageshack.us/i/img0732jb.jpg/)

Here's the dummy assembly to give me a better idea of the little jobs needing to be done.

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/20/img0722v.th.jpg (http://img204.imageshack.us/i/img0722v.jpg/)
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/5554/img0721k.th.jpg (http://img11.imageshack.us/i/img0721k.jpg/)
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/1645/img0729oi.th.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/i/img0729oi.jpg/)

As much as I would have liked to find a cheap Garrett roller, it would have swallowed so much of the budget that i'd be running LPG :gay: Well its not gay as much as not optimal. Cheapest GT3540 i bid on went for $260 odd. Noisy bearing but still spooling apparently. Every other one i've seen is out of reach.

Better to compromise with a bush bearing turbo and leave cash for other things. From a plumbing perspective its easier too when you need not run water lines or un-blank sealed water ports. The rear rotor housing was filled with devcon or similar while the front one was untouched. The port in the rear plate was sealed with an alloy bung too. TO4 just needs oil in and out. Here's the one i've had sitting on the shelf for a few years.

http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/2086/img0731u.th.jpg (http://img577.imageshack.us/i/img0731u.jpg/)

I had given some thought to the placement of an intercooler. Top mount was by far the easiest to fit on facotry mounts and initial set up will use that configuration. It wouldn't get a ton of cooling through the hornet scoop and even less if i ditch that bonnet for an original one. I had thought of making a dry-ice "bucket" for the top mount so I could shovel in dry ice like a locomotive engineer feeding the boiler. I have zero experience with this and if it would be effective. there was also the issue of having another consumable to deal with buying, storing, travelling and handling at the track. The top mount is fairly small but the upside is less lag.

Front mount coolers tend to be a tight fit and I didn't want to cut the body of the car. In a perfect world i'd run a barrell cooler. But this is ghetto spec racing at its finest and that demands some lateral thinking.

Casting my mind back to an old FF&R mag, I remembered an RX7 with the top mount sealed up in alloy plate and a little radiator cap on it. All i needed to do was find a suitable pump. Ebay to the rescue again with 12v caravan tank pumps.

For a heat exchanger at the front i was wondering what i could use when it dawned on me: I have the original air-con condensor from my RX4 of which some monkey hacked off the fittings - i subsequently got a replacement for my car. Its a bolt in and just needs to be plumbed up/brazed with some fresh copper tube and fittings. I'll take the 16" thermo fan from the back side of the radiator and move it to the front.

will come back with pics later and make it all the subject of an update when done.

wagoner
03-02-11, 05:23 PM
For a heat exchanger at the front i was wondering what i could use when it dawned on me: I have the original air-con condensor from my RX4 of which some monkey hacked off the fittings - i subsequently got a replacement for my car. Its a bolt in and just needs to be plumbed up/brazed with some fresh copper tube and fittings. I'll take the 16" thermo fan from the back side of the radiator and move it to the front.

will come back with pics later and make it all the subject of an update when done.i used a old motorbike radiator on my EA82 turbo 6-7 years ago. did the trick nicely

sorry to hear about your cat. my old man ran over ours in the driveway a few years ago. she was about 11 i think, right from the beginning it used to sit at the bottom of the driveway then run up ahead of the car towards the garage. on this occasion she zigged when she should zagged and he went straight over her. he was fucking distraught.

Paddington
03-02-11, 05:37 PM
aw shit hoges. Not again. :(

gimme a bell whenever.

I have told Datsun Dan to give you a ring about mazda bits they need for their imported USA RX-2 coupe. He's rung me saying mazdas are shit as he's in tullamarine at a servo and can't get the coupe started. It's auto as well.

jzx83
03-02-11, 09:37 PM
Sucks big time about your little mate Aaron, but at least you were able to be there for him at the end. Was something I definitely felt I owed to both myself and my little mate when we had to have her put to sleep. For mine it would have been far far worse to have found him later and known you weren't there for him at the time.


Back on topic, good to see more progress and I am particularly interested in your ghetto Water to Air (?) intercooler setup.

rx213b
03-02-11, 09:40 PM
Aaron, if you can't be assed fucking around with water cooling that stock intercooler.....do what is the case on my car, there seemed to be enough room to run cooler pipes either side of the rad

sh|tbmxrider
04-02-11, 04:41 AM
Fuck Aaron, thats heartbreaking :(


Fucken taxi-drivers

niggerjewz
04-02-11, 01:18 PM
man, sorry to hear about you cat, one of my poor cats was run over on the weekend too. I found out Monday morning cried all the way home from work. Poor little guy, i miss him lots. He was well and truly dead and i never got to hold him or anything because he'd been on the side of the road for most of the 40degree day. I hope to god he died instantly and wasn't just stuck ont he side of the road crying in pain or something.

I know this isn't cat forms - but I hope our cats are in heaven eating all the ham they want ( my kitty loved ham).

Sorry now i wrote that i can't think of anything constructive about the car. Good luck with it.

bumpstart
04-02-11, 02:52 PM
good work man -keep it up, my dollar is on you
soz about your mate,,,, after working in kennels for many years,, ima cat man myself

OK-
the 910 isnt good enough, even new,,
130 GPH is only 2166 cc per minute and thats the same as 4 x 550 injectors at 100% duty

so get two ( or a pair of VL commie 070/033 )
and mod the surge tank for dual outlet
use the ECU aux out to run up the second pump around 2 psi boost

using second hand pumps is a worry and at least with 2 and good wiring it will still have redundancy without huge cost
*run another pair of 12at or 1600 or 1000 x 4 injectors

no2 -
mod the underside of the TBar assembly with an extra saw tooth to allow vertical bump shift up
with simple CIG mod you can do the launch with 2 selected and hold that till you bump drive up
( and the saw tooth locks out neutral and reverse )

the same mod allows neutral to drive burnouts with bump backwards

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9999/pic1221855.jpg

and

the steering box chassis rail reo plate has been on all the RX4 coupes and sedans i have owned and dismantled
- even on a couple of 73 original 12a TD units
i use one on my rx2 cause the stress of front wide tyres can unpin the crush tubes
i have repaired chassis rail crack in a 626 coupe and a 73 rx4 sedan
( which has the plate yet still cracked up )

and PS
generally the RX gets gas shocks,, and the 929 and capella generally has the oil filled crap unless changed up


PS
keep eyes peeled for one of the pressurized ford "pack of tennis balls" expansion tanks and an LPG solenoid

me thinks your going to need a primitive pre turbo WI setups and run 18 plus psi on 98 fuel for 400 rwhp with that combo for some low 13 or 12 second passes with repeatability
( use that same aux out 2 psi signal to switch it on )

bumpstart
04-02-11, 03:03 PM
PS,, capella / 929 converter?? :p

LINCOLN
04-02-11, 05:33 PM
Sad news on cat mate, know how you would feel as my mate comes when called and has a great personality. RIP.... some skids in his honour.

aaron_hogan
04-02-11, 10:38 PM
Niggerjews: Pizza ham? This one couldn't get enough of it. You'd have to destroy a pizza slice to keep him off the rest of it :lol: I put the little bloke to rest with his favourite toy mouse that i would peg across the room and he'd fetch to be thrown again. burmese cats = or > dogs. had a special meow for "play with me", would jump into my arms on hand signals, lots of cool things to remember about this one because he had heaps of personality. That's all you can do is focus on the fun times. Will be a long while before i'm ready to get another one and pretty much convinced i'll need to build a massive cat run/enclosure. Got the room here...but i rent :mad: (could rant about property but i have other forums for that)

despite the threats, no visits from the 5.0 yet either <sigh of relief>

Bumpstart: Thanks heaps for the encouragement and advice.

Thats two 910's on the shelf there. One is just in a ford bracket.

Still need a surge tank. Got my eye on one otherwise it needs to be made from scratch. I have to pull a second fuel line out of that white wagon for a return line or at the very least to trace the bends on a new bigger line.

It was mentioned the Haltech was set up with 2x 12aT injectors. I can get them from a good mate - surprisingly he hoards more shit than I do.

T-bar mod is an easy one. I did something similar with my ford after a B&M let me down. Not a fan of ratchet shifters and got flamed for it on here. I have a mig but have not had the time to attend trade school to learn how to use it *properly*. Years of watching the old man has transferred some knowledge by osmosis - enough to get that job done.

Got the steering reo plate but its in the next batch of sandblasting - somewhat unnecessary but its force of habit to run things through in batches. Still need to give the underside some love.

Tell me more about water injection (I will also search AR). I can get a ford expansion tank or better yet i had a ~2 litre header tank made by Desert Cooler years back but never used it (from when my XE had an EF motor in it). Also have LPG solenoids here. Assume the rest is irrigation nozzles/plumbing but i'll need to be guided as to sizing. Innovation and ghetto mods are only separated by execution. :D

Capella convertor is a possibility. I just sold a barely running Capella 1.6 auto (along with a 12a & 5spd) and the guy will bin the auto. YOINK.

******
Slightly OT, but tomorrow i'll be picking up some recaro seat frames for my HDJ80 land cruiser. I'll be stoked to put some decent seats in there (got a 3x pairs to pick from and one uber orthopedic model). I remember HoonBoy saying he felt like Mr Burns after stepping out of the 80 series and after a while now i see why!

Here's hoping the tropical weather in Melb fucks right off...but the steamy looking female dress code stays :oh:

bumpstart
05-02-11, 06:13 PM
Tell me more about water injection (I will also search AR). I can get a ford expansion tank or better yet i had a ~2 litre header tank made by Desert Cooler years back but never used it (from when my XE had an EF motor in it). Also have LPG solenoids here. Assume the rest is irrigation nozzles/plumbing but i'll need to be guided as to sizing. Innovation and ghetto mods are only separated by execution. http://autospeed.com.au/cms/printArticle.html?&A=107970
( boost pressure water injection )

this system is simply easy, almost free , rises with boost and is sort of tunable

run to the front of the turbo it is most efficient,, but drawback is turbo wear if the atomisation and shut off are not great

bumpstart
05-02-11, 06:27 PM
PS
you will need 4 x 12at ,, or 4 x 1000 cc rochy or 2 x 12a + 2 x 1600

you will need ignitors ( BIM 137 ) if you run the HEC coils
or you need FC coils
or raid something for LS1's
( beg my ignorance,, which haltech,, as it will determine the ignition setup )

which alternator ? you may be able to trick the field with a switch
to give 15-16V to boost the ignition and fuel pumps ( for very short period ! )
as water ( i think about 400 cc at 20 psi ) and that sort of boost will push normal HEI ignition systems

b10 EG plugs for bang for < 20 dollar
consider leaving the trailing ignition out for high boost

bumpstart
05-02-11, 06:48 PM
epic three poster ,, better end it well ,, here goes --!

i know its been said,,,
but a impco 225 mixer, model E convertor and a tank from a coon or toilet door
and twin BIM 024 ( coon, commie ignitor ) dizzy DLI ignition will have net you 300 HP for less than $300
more HP is there if you find a dual outlet tank and another E or B2


which brings me to this

i will just leave this here..............
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oyqfx1ex_aQ

aaron_hogan
06-02-11, 09:15 AM
Here's a rambling post about my experiences with LPG in general.

I think I came into the lpg stuff from being a broke arse uni student and needing to swap across the entire LPG conversion from a 302 ZJ fairlane into my first XE ghia. It was a simple Impco 300a, B2 convertor set up but I had to learn how to properly run the lines, flare the copper service line, wire it up, test for leaks etc.

Then i put a 351/fmx into a 5 tonne Toyota Dyna and made it into a tow truck. Had to use GRA to fit the motor under the cab. I'll never forget the exhaust shop bloke exclaiming after a brief drive "Fuck mate that thing could have pulled jesus off the cross!" :rotflol:

Then by pure coincidence as i was building Ghia number two (Ghia number one actually went to Broomy after it was stolen/recovered) and i put GRA onto the crossflow a mate from work mentioned he saw a car like mine at Heathcote....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeQO89l8ohU

From that day forward I was hooked and have played a lot with LPG and taxi motors. I cycled through crossflows and when i got a sniff of the red XE with AU motor (before it went public) I knew it could be done and just forged my own path to the OHC conversion with a lot of trial and error. Then i sold the OHC running gear and went to a tough 351 driveline again with GRA but twin throttles and plumbed quite neatly. All home built. Sadly even that XE ghia was subject to being stolen/recovered and it presently sits in the field of rust. I swore i'd come back to it when i got a solid month off (well 2.5 years so far with no leave).

If i can develop some welding/fab skills I'd like to continue with the dream and whack a single turbo onto the XE. The dream was only interrupted by an overzealous plod who canaried the car instead of dicking me for alleged "hooning" - brand new tight lsd and squealing tires as i turned through a roundabout - dickhead. I couldn't clear the canary in time and the reg was suspended.

I reckon a turbo 5.8, c10, 3500 stally, twin GRA, 9 inch 3.5 gears should be a bit of a weapon. Total sleeper as it is. Looks no different from the one in the vid above but its due for a little tidy up (faded paint, theft damage etc). Maybe thats a winter project.

Now those with keen eyes looking at pics back on the first couple of pages would have noted a B2 sitting there. It was a deliberate plant as was the hidden turbo. I was considering going GRA LPG on this 929. I have all the gear, it would have required bugger all fabrication and even less electronics - not my forte but i'm learning.

The determining factor in the build up of the car was meeting the $1300 target. If i had spent up big buying a GT35r then it would have had to be lpg. But with acquiring the haltech, and really being stuck to the tune that is already in it, determining the total combo was now straight forward and the budget retained a bit more fat.

aaron_hogan
06-02-11, 09:53 AM
In reply:

Haltech E6a. Tuned for 2x12aT and 2xs4 13bT injectors with a TO4-66 apparently made ~340hp.

I know i'm not stuck with the tune but nor do i have the facility to tune it (no ancient laptop etc). So i thought it was easiest to mimic the combo as far as possible.

It was mentioned there were no coils with it and i'm uncertain if there are ignitors either. I'll know more about it when i meet up with Michael later this week. But i have the four BIM 008 coming and if i need different units then ebay or pick a part will come to the rescue. I'll have to find out more about BIM 137.

If i can find someone to play with the tune, and lets be honest here the car isn't even running yet so its a ways off, but i'd think seriously about upgrading the injectors at that point. Once running and having had a few shake downs i'll get it handling right before i go winding in more power on a fresh tune. i just want to play it safe, no point having the motor let go before it gets a proper run.

Alternator on the motor now is a shitful old RX7 one. I have series 456 alternators or can mod a ford unit to fit (EF/EL?).

Water injection v Intercooler. I remembered Julian (NirvanaRX3) had a water injection on his car so i called up and asked if i he was going to keep it, could i buy/borrow it. Says he'll search through the shed to find it all first as the car has been TOTALLY stripped out. His RX3 coupe was built by Russel Heffernan at Maztech and has many very nicely engineered parts. Once i know what bits i'm dealing with i'll see if i can incorporate it into my build.

Meanwhile I picked up the Pulsar GTiR intercooler. Its a little ripper. I dummied it in the engine bay before i went out last night and I'm quite happy with the fit and orientation. I'll toy with some temporary mounts until i'm 100% happy then set about getting it closed in as a water-to-air cooler. When that's done i'll tally the budget but it should come in fairly cheap.

bumpstart
06-02-11, 10:08 AM
again,, which haltech,, and what combo of injectors,, i only see mention of 2 x 12 at
which will be far short of the mark run from a 40 psi base pressure
you will need 4,, to make the 350 -400 rwhp you need to get low 13's
( i have no doubt it will do 13's with 250-300 rwhp but you may need to get faster than other contenders and so need fuel for boost in reserve )


however,, if the haltech doesnt have four decent injectors and tune to suit
then-

if you have the GRA lying about,,, use it

if you trip over a 225,, i will lead you through the setup,, and help you with the DLI dizzy

the single tank outlet and single converter are at the limit at around 300 easy RWHP
( actually a little more for short burst )
though i run mine with a V trim ( 55 mm wheel ) to 18 psi without finding a limit in the fuel octane
( i can even disconnect the boost retard pot at this level and find some real mid range )



keep that option open


edit ,, ignore the first bit,, you just posted your reply

bumpstart
06-02-11, 10:10 AM
PS BIM137 is the replacement 008

MartyRX2
06-02-11, 04:30 PM
Sorry to hear about your cat mate. I'm not a cat person at all as you know but that one did have a certain charm and will be missed. I take it you will flow check any injectors you will use connected to this Haltech if you are going to rely on it's current tune? How would you know what fuel pressure was in the rails of the previous car? I guess this would also effect how usable the existing tune will be.

aaron_hogan
07-02-11, 10:41 AM
Screwing it all together is the first step and I'll take interweb advice here on anything else to check initially.

I'm expecting to need to do some re-wiring on the Haltech and associated parts and that means a bit of running around to chase up those connectors/sensors. Injector cleaning and flow testing is pretty cheap and there's no excuse not to get it done.

Fuel pressure is an unknown. I'm not sure if that one is a rising rate reg or not now? :dunno: I saw another one which was thicker through the middle than the one i have. If you check the pics from the other day there is a shot of it sitting on top of the wastegate. You tell me?

As long as i can start it off the key (start of March?) I'll be happy. From there out I'll have the various parameters checked over by someone that knows what they're doing or has the correct equipment. Any volunteers?

I mocked up the template for the GTiR water to air intercooler which is nothing more simple than cardboard cut to slight oversize of the core and lapping the tank edges. Marked top/bottom, front/rear and where i wanted the threaded bungs. Will hold roughly 7 to 8 litres plus whatever is in the lines and the heat exchanger. Next step is to find somebody to make it. But i may hold off until the turbo is in place and do the cooler piping at the same time.

Will just be knocking up more templates for various brackets tonight. I don't want to be held back by not being able to bolt anything on. I'm also waiting on things to turn up in the post from interstate, waiting on pictures of things to decide if i buy certain parts, waiting on those pending decisions on others, waiting on the weather to clear. Seem to been doing a lot of waiting lately. :mad:

Might get this T-shirt then
http://www.redbubble.com/people/pippiphooray/t-shirts/3764259-3-hurry-up

bumpstart
07-02-11, 12:24 PM
looks like a 1:1 malpassi,, the ones with the thicker black middle section are malpassi black an i think they are 1.5 or 2:1

Mr Parts
07-02-11, 03:11 PM
thats a nat asp malpassi.

the 1:1 ones will have a thick black section seperating the top and bottom cast alloy sections, and the 1.7:1 ones will have the black section, triple diaphrams and a black anodised top as well.


auto smorto! chuck an rx4 4 speed in there, strong enough.

i went 121 mph with a t04b in a full weight rx4, full exhaust, 3 mufflers and a full 90L lpg tank, 14psi. 11.9 @ 121 [p.s. with 6 deg timing too mind you.]

bumpstart
07-02-11, 05:27 PM
http://www.officinamalpassi.it/httpweb/catalogo_online/index.php?view=web_category&category=2&subcategory=13
1.7:1 black top

http://www.officinamalpassi.it/httpweb/catalogo_online/index.php?view=web_category&category=2&subcategory=12#
( includes next page ) all the double diaphragm units

http://www.officinamalpassi.it/httpweb/catalogo_online/index.php?view=web_category&category=2&subcategory=4
single diaphragm/membrane

click on the pics and you will get the PDF links
( in italian ,, as that is where they come from )

iniezione
= injection

note yours looks like the 298 or 374 ( injection types )
[ the differences are in the fittings and brackets ,, some attach to stock rails ]
note also all the NA carb ( and turbo carb ) types have either no reference nipple,, or it is stuck out horizontally



1:1 will be fine,, though with the 550/660 ( or 690 ) cc combo
you may well need to run from 50 psi static ( no vac ) pressure

yes 12at are NOT 800 cc
=
83- 87 12A T low square centre 660 cc dark blue 195500-0610
83-87 13B HB Cosmo 13b NT low square centre 690 cc green / blue 195500-0830.

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/5484/grafico.gif (http://img228.imageshack.us/i/grafico.gif/)

A = normal to a membrane regulator (Ref: 298-374 - ........)

B = regular progress in the two membranes (Code: 372 - 384 - ...)

C = Controller progressive two membranes (3 layers, thickness 1.2 mm) the new HR model (High Rate).
Supplied with threaded 1 / 8 "NPT, hose with a diameter of 8mm or 10mm (specify)

translated roughly--

a- 1 membrane
b- 2 membrane
c- 3 membrane ( black top )

298 and 374 are clearly for efi boosted cars,, and represent A on the graph
and show about 0.7 : 1 rising rate

2JZR31
07-02-11, 06:39 PM
Seriously. Keep that malpassi away from your car. Everyone says they are shit. But I thought fuck em, and used one on my R31. After the fuel pressure randomly went up and down by 20psi, I binned it and put the stock FPR back on. Everyone is right. They are shit.

bumpstart
08-02-11, 12:03 AM
Seriously. Keep that malpassi away from your car. Everyone says they are shit. But I thought fuck em, and used one on my R31. After the fuel pressure randomly went up and down by 20psi, I binned it and put the stock FPR back on. Everyone is right. They are shit.

have seen sard do exactly that too,,biggest issue i ever had with malpassi is when they wear a little they hum louder than the engine
and you find yourself winding the base pressure up and retuning it just to shut the bugger up

i agree that the stock fuel reg at 1:1 would be a better choice provided he has injectors to back up the 400 RWHP at a mid 11 AFR with 40 psi static head pressure

he doesnt ,, so ( any ) aftermarket reg that allows him to cheat up the base pressure will be a better choice
personally i think 1:1 is usually all you need
and the 1.7:1 or 07:1 is only going to make the tune go out up top unless you nail down every plot individually on the dyno

myself would err to just getting another pair of 12at ,,, or 1600,, or 4 x 1000 rocheys
and use the standard 1:1 at 40 psi static to keep the costs down

( or just say fuckit and buy a $100 falcon already with all the impco LPG fitout )

aaron_hogan
12-02-11, 06:47 PM
UPDATE Saturday 12/2/11: ECU

:worship: MASSIVE THANKS goes to Michael (TuffRX3 on AR). Without this donation I would not be able to get the car where I wanted.

Haltech E6a was dropped off today complete with wiring, reluctor adaptor, map sensor (GM 749 - designated 3bar), and to boot two 12a Turbo injectors (#195500-0830 designating these as 690cc units).

The only parts of the loom that were cut off were the injector plugs and the CAS plug. The rest of it is in great shape and has plenty of length to work with.

An added bonus was that without knowing what ignition set up this ecu was running I had set about getting some BOSCH ignitors (#1 227 022 008) that came as four units mounted on a nice alloy heat sink. And thankfully the Haltech was wired for the same modules, except only three of them (leaving one redundant). Clearly it was wired to run a dual post Leading Coil in waste spark and individual primaries.

I've just spent the last hour going over the loom and identifying what was what. I've labelled it so I know where to physically route things in the engine bay.

Will need to chase up a few sensors and plugs, a twin post coil, O2 sensor, and some more injectors.

Another AR legend - Rob (NOS 13B) has offered to clean and flow check the injectors for nix. :worship:

<cue gay anthem>:gay:The best things in life are free yeaaaah!

slikrx
12-02-11, 07:11 PM
Aaron I got a twin post coil and I think there is some injector plugs. Ill bring em along tomorra for ya

bumpstart
12-02-11, 10:26 PM
e6a will only be wastespark
but i thought they did the s4 trailing toggle thing
so you could run two lots of trailing coils ( with the toggle ) to get sequential ignition
-reading the current wiring setup to 3 external igniter nails it as emulating the FD and not the FC trailing ignition setup
( and without using the inbuilt igniters )

just to let you know you REALLY need an old atx computer with windows 98 and a serial port and cable

getting these to hook up and talk to anything newer will steal a month off your life and not work well

these are also the biggest pain in the arse if not supplied with reluctor adapter/s to condition the cas signals to be turned to TTL / hall effect


instead you may only have the dip switches on the side to set up the filter and gain settings for the signal
( another black art )

PS
i hope this thing is wired up as four injectors

Paddington
13-02-11, 03:48 PM
just to let you know you REALLY need an old atx computer with windows 98 and a serial port and cable

getting these to hook up and talk to anything newer will steal a month off your life and not work well



this can be arranged.

aaron_hogan
14-02-11, 02:43 PM
e6a will only be wastespark
but i thought they did the s4 trailing toggle thing
so you could run two lots of trailing coils ( with the toggle ) to get sequential ignition
-reading the current wiring setup to 3 external igniter nails it as emulating the FD and not the FC trailing ignition setup
( and without using the inbuilt igniters )

just to let you know you REALLY need an old atx computer with windows 98 and a serial port and cable

getting these to hook up and talk to anything newer will steal a month off your life and not work well

these are also the biggest pain in the arse if not supplied with reluctor adapter/s to condition the cas signals to be turned to TTL / hall effect


instead you may only have the dip switches on the side to set up the filter and gain settings for the signal
( another black art )

PS
i hope this thing is wired up as four injectors


If Geoff can assist with such a laptop/pc then i'm golden. i had trouble getting an IG5 to talk to a 'puter years back.

The coil wiring from the Haltech involves simple ring terminals rather than Mazda plugs so the assumption is that it had regular old coils.

The one which Glenn has provided is an ACCELL twin post coil. I'll need to identify it correctly because the terminals are "hidden" and doesn't show +/- markings. It appears to mount as a Commodore V6 coil - this may be what its intended to be a replacement for.

Assuming dip-switches are internal on the ecu. Given it came with the reluctor adaptor that should take the pain out of the job.

And yep. 4 injectors.

MRMOPARMAN
14-02-11, 03:09 PM
dang this thing is gettin real serious real quick!

my vote on this killing the competition from a great height.. or blowing up and taking half of melbourne with it :)

ALLMTR
14-02-11, 04:23 PM
Has SM ever had a rotor in it? :)

MRMOPARMAN
14-02-11, 04:41 PM
yes, ive got an issue where they had an RX7? with a 13b + 4/71 poking through the bonnet. oh and the standard issue kindy graphics down the side

blownhemi
14-02-11, 06:14 PM
Has SM ever had a rotor in it? :)

Yep, Ther was definitely the blue RX7 MrMoparman mentioned but I wouldn't doubt there was others.

Didn't we run Garth Bell's rotary powered FJ ute at some stage?

aaron_hogan
15-02-11, 09:24 AM
Over the years SM has featured RX4's and definitely had them on the 1/4 mile leaderboard. They've usually had V8's in them. I'm not really against the idea of V8's in mazda's, provided they aren't butchering something that was a genuine rotor to begin with. *FD RX7's excluded*

Thanks for the words of encouragement. I feel like i'm not making progress because its all busy work to get things organised. Although it will come together quickly once I reach that critical mass of having everything sorted. The nearing deadline is a concern.

I'll try to keep it in one piece. All in all i think it should be a conservative drivetrain.

blownhemi
15-02-11, 09:38 AM
Over the years SM has featured RX4's and definitely had them on the 1/4 mile leaderboard. They've usually had V8's in them. I'm not really against the idea of V8's in mazda's, provided they aren't butchering something that was a genuine rotor to begin with. *FD RX7's excluded*

Thanks for the words of encouragement. I feel like i'm not making progress because its all busy work to get things organised. Although it will come together quickly once I reach that critical mass of having everything sorted. The nearing deadline is a concern.

I'll try to keep it in one piece. All in all i think it should be a conservative drivetrain.

I'm looking forward to seeing this one run. It's been a huge build in comparison to most of the field.

As for V8's in Mazda's. Generally I don't like it becuase the guys that do that kind of stuff usually don't care what the body is, they just want to go fast. I'm a bit of a purist when it comes to that stuff. If you want to go fast with a Ford, buy a Ford and use a Ford motor, same with Holden, Chrysler, Mazda, etc.

Paddington
15-02-11, 01:29 PM
Do your assignments aaron, you have less than two weeks.

I think I have sourced a suitable antique to run the coal fired ECU. It runs 98. I think I can scrounge up a serial port cable.

rx213b
15-02-11, 02:01 PM
Holy shit G.....that's positively the most archaic thing I've seen in years

blownhemi
15-02-11, 02:08 PM
Holy shit G.....that's positively the most archaic thing I've seen in years


You should see one I've got here, that I used to use with my Haltech. It just needs a new cmos battery and I can't bring myself to throw it away.

aaron_hogan
15-02-11, 02:53 PM
Thanks Geoff, does that laptop have a matching steam valve? :rotflol: btw YOU ROCK for finding that.


Holy shit G.....that's positively the most archaic thing I've seen in years

needs more "steam-punk" style: brass and polished wood.



It's been a huge build in comparison to most of the field.
Its coming off a low starting point thats for sure. But it has potential. Not to take anything away from the other contendors because there is some fine work being done. I think Elektra, CoonGoon and the Helltruck are every bit as difficult as (or moreso) than my build.

Btw: Ben is keen to have a crack at the tune when the car is ready to go on the rollers. :w:
Fucking stoked that people care enough about this shit heap to lend a hand!

bumpstart
15-02-11, 04:41 PM
Btw: Ben is keen to have a crack at the tune when the car is ready to go on the rollers.
Fucking stoked that people care enough about this shit heap to lend a hand!
boy am i glad to hear that,, was dreading doing a 4000 km conference tune via my Chernobyl spec haltech master interface
( pictured below )

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/3050/pic0215710.jpg (http://img823.imageshack.us/i/pic0215710.jpg/)


PS
the supplied reluctor adapters are more than just a small mercy , thank double fuck

Ben.
15-02-11, 08:00 PM
^ yeah not i get to blow it up for you :)

*italics to be potentially removed at a later date*

Paddington
16-02-11, 09:11 AM
The battery for the laptop may not hold a charge, I thought whoever was doing the tuning, in this case Ben, would want a laptop so they could sit inside the coupe for any on road fine tuning. You may have to get a converter to run off a cigarette lighter socket if the battery is a dud.
I can supply a 486 running 3.1.1 if required...
Let me know when you need the laptop.

MRMOPARMAN
16-02-11, 10:31 AM
ive got an apple 2E or macintosh plus if youse need something slightly better than a 486.. lol :p

Paddington
16-02-11, 11:39 AM
ive got an apple 2E or macintosh plus if youse need something slightly better than a 486.. lol :p

my second pc was a GSII. colours and stereo sound shitted all over IBM's of the same period from a great height. It all went wrong after that for a few decades.

bumpstart
16-02-11, 12:22 PM
The battery for the laptop may not hold a charge, I thought whoever was doing the tuning, in this case Ben, would want a laptop so they could sit inside the coupe for any on road fine tuning. You may have to get a converter to run off a cigarette lighter socket if the battery is a dud.
I can supply a 486 running 3.1.1 if required...
Let me know when you need the laptop.

i run a long serial cable out the window and squint
i had the same issue with laptops,, batteries in the old ones will give out in less than 20 mins and so require a 12v adapter from the ciggy lighter or other

the trick will be in finding an old disk or software for the e6a
i have H, M, K and others but don't think they will work with E6A

will get looking -


^ yeah not i get to blow it up for you

*italics to be potentially removed at a later date*
hopefully it has a base tune in it already and thus avoid much painful setup

it wont be about squeezing the last 15 hp out of it
( more the hookup off the line )
,,there will be plenty spare later if there is a competitor still in the mirror


so ,err conservative with timing ,, using a 1 for 1 degree for boost from a 25 BTDC at 0 psi till you get feedback
ie 20 psi boost should see timing down to the 5-6 degree mark , 15 psi around 10-11 degrees total
keep the split to around 8-10 degrees at the business end

up to you to keep it wetter than 11.5 :1 at 15 psi and more
PS
i would start from a 50 psi ( no vac ) or 43 psi ( with vac ) basis for fuel pressure knowing the reg is not quite 1:1 rising rate

tuffrx3
16-02-11, 08:08 PM
Lol at the steam powered ecu and laptop comments lol and that poor falcon in the beginning of the thread :worship:

The ecu has a tune to suit that injector setup can't remember wat boost that was on but don't think it was over 12psi with the to4/66 but I may be wrong ! It ran very well except for the common cold start/ backfire issue was abit of fun for the neighbours at the time.

Enjoying the informed updates

Ben.
16-02-11, 09:15 PM
yeah jeff mate i may take use of the laptop when the time comes. all will be done on a dyno so if you have a normal charger for it that will be fine.

bumpstart, pretty much how i'm going to approach it. will also have a very knowledgable type sitting beside me to make sure nothing goes back (havent dont a rotor before, but hes done heaps). also going to convince (make?) Hoges run E85 so it should all be sweet

aaron_hogan
17-02-11, 02:13 PM
UPDATE: 17/2/11 - w00t w33k: TIME OFF AT LAST

I'm burnt out from work and I'm staring at half finished assignments due on 28 Feb. Nothing was going to happen except a potential mental breakdown if i didn't GTFO of work for a while. So with more and more being heaped on me I finally put my foot down and said "enough!". I'm going to float in and out of work every few days to keep an eye on things (not necessarily doing anything!) but at least I can get some sleep/study/exercise/car stuff done while i'm off.

Now I was hoping it would have arrived today (maybe tomorrow?) but I nabbed an Aeromotive A1000 pump and matching efi regulator (both second hand) from good old ebay usa. E85 compatible :D

I'm going to plumb with AN10 tube and I'm banking on the gracious discount offered by Glen/Paul to source all the required fittings and hose. (I'm making a list guys). The more I thought about it I just couldn't skimp on the fuel side of things. If i'm forced to compromise I'll do it elsewhere.

I finally put the tie rods back in - cleaned up with new grease and boots - so it rolls/steers.

Going to pick up the other 12aT injectors tonight and hopefully sort out an oil drain in a spare timing cover - for a quicker change over

HoonBoy
17-02-11, 09:16 PM
You are doing damn well with the free stuff! I reckon it would get a fair bit of buyer interest once it is up and running.

Mr Parts
18-02-11, 06:38 AM
Going to pick up the other 12aT injectors tonight and hopefully sort out an oil drain in a spare timing cover - for a quicker change over


i run 4 880cc injectors in my thing on e85 and am at borderline max duty cycle.

thats with a stock s4 turbo, 15psi, FD engine.

you want to run a t04 @ 15+psi, you're going to need bigger secondaries at least.

bumpstart
18-02-11, 09:16 AM
+1 suspect 4 x 700 cc will barely manage 250 rwhp at normalish base pressure with e85 volumes


--------------------------

for 98 petrol ( and 4 x 12at injectors )
if keeping the motor under 15 psi you can get away with a low 12 AFR and then use the 0.65 BSFC factor
( use the 0.70 BSFC factor if your run above 15 psi to relate the necessary 11:1 AFR )
if so,, 4 x 700cc injectors at 85% duty with 0.65 BSFC then it will make 350 rwhp from a 43 psi base

experience tells me the t04 /66 with 1.32 will flow just on 400 rwhp at 14 psi on a mildport
- stock engine and 1.15 at 14 psi will fall in the 350-400 rwhp zone

from this you should see why i recommend the 50 psi base pressure due to the not quite 1:1 rising rate with those injectors

i think you should err with the 98 to keep the volume sums correct
( and without having need or cost to weld in bungs for another 4 x 12at injectors )
and you should use the cheap no pump method for pre turbo water injection for insurances

aaron_hogan
18-02-11, 01:20 PM
Thanks for providing a detailed breakdown of those tuning parameters - i'm feeling out of my depth with this new-fangled electronic devil trickery - but i learn fast. It was another reason i just wanted to build to suit the current tune and play later.

To clarify, I will plumb it for e85.... actually putting e85 through it is another thing altogether. Just don't want to have to do the lines twice if it can be avoided.

bumpstart
18-02-11, 01:50 PM
and to plumb for multifuel now and only once is prudent thinking , a good move
any detail on the rise rate of the new reg? part number etc ?

the e85 will only really become an option until you fall over 4 x 1600's to match equivalence to the 4 x 700cc 12at injectors on petrol
( and then the fuel rails will require modding to 14mm )
it is however a good option later when you shoot 11s for $1500 with this thing

aaron_hogan
19-02-11, 12:14 AM
Got all 4 12aT injectors now. Will have to run with the standard series 5 fuel rails for the time being. I can raid spare banjo fittings to suit from a spare rail rather than add AN fittings to the stock rails.

Thus, looks like I'll have to plumb the engine bay with regular efi hose and barb fittings to accommodate that. From the tank to pump, and pump to engine bay it will all be plumbed properly. Leaving the option open to simply change two hoses in the bay at a later date. Can get a deal on extreme rotaries stuff like rails (14mm) at any time.

But - 4x1600cc - FUCK ME i had no idea you needed that much more flow for e85!

Here's the parts:
Aeromotive A1000 PUMP #11101 (AN-10 in/out)
Aeromotive Fuel Pump Controller #16306 (really just a bonus - not needed)
Aeromotive REG #13301 (Base pressure adjustable from 3 to 20 PSI with standard spring, or from 20 to 60 PSI with high pressure spring. I hope it has the correct spring in it! - will fit gauge and check. Its 1:1 rate)

Am I right in assuming i don't need a 100 micron filter if I filter at the pre-pump before fuel even gets to the surge tank?

BTW: I need to find out how to wire the CAS, TPS and ISC. Got the Haltech diagram <linked below> but need to know the Mazda wire colours to match it up. Will grab some weatherpack connectors for these connections - but if I was going all out I'd be using deutsch stuff. damn budget!

http://www.haltech.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/e6a_wiring_diagram.pdf
http://www.haltech.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/e6a3_manual.pdf

<edited to include useful links for reference>
CAS wiring
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=770119

stock CAS ---------------Purpose-------------------Haltech
Red --------------------- Main Trigger +ve---------???
Green ------------------- Home Trigger +ve-------???
White ------------------- Main Trigger -ve----------???
White/Black------------- Home Trigger -ve--------???


TPS wiring
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/topic/51790-tps-pin-out-wiring-stock-units/

Series 5 TPS
the BLUE wire on the TPS side of the plug is the GROUND wire
the PINK wire on the TPS side of the plug is the 5V DC wire
the YELLOW wire is the signal

Idle Speed Controller/Air Bypass Solenoid
?
?
?

Ben.
19-02-11, 09:11 AM
e85 needs about 30% more size in the fuel system, go the big injectors now if you can swing it, even if you can't go massive, get em as big as you can and we'll wind it up till we run out of fuel. i like e85 coz its safer for hack cunts to tune with :)

edit- can you dig up the software for the haltec Hoges?

aaron_hogan
19-02-11, 12:25 PM
I think I have sourced a suitable antique to run the coal fired ECU. It runs 98. I think I can scrounge up a serial port cable.

Just in case:

http://www.bre.ch/projects/haltech/howto_run_on_xp.html

http://www.pengaru.com/downloads/

And the software:
(Generic E6)
http://www2.haltech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=63&Itemid=59

(while the link said E6A - the page links as F10 Halwin software?)
http://www2.haltech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=75&Itemid=107

Ben.
19-02-11, 07:15 PM
download them both and see what works, let me know when you find out precisely which it is so i can download it and have a play with the software myself :)

tuffrx3
26-02-11, 01:50 PM
Where's the updates Aaron ?

aaron_hogan
27-02-11, 08:13 AM
UPDATE Sunday 27 Feb 2011: The I'll give you an UPDATE update

So I've been buried under journal articles form the Harvard Business Review for a week but I've allowed myself a bit of freedom to go visit a few places to get stuff sorted.

I missed the opportunity to get out to the Super Swap Meet at Ballarat yesterday. :knock: I normally go every year and find a few bargains so I'm disappointed I didn't get my assignments done by Friday night or else I would have been there.

During the week I went out to www.efihardware.com.au and bought fuel lines ($30 ea) and a couple of plugs/connectors ($11 ea). Got home and un-coiled the 10 foot Earl's fuel lines (AN-6 and AN-8 or 3/8" and 1/2" for the old codgers). If my estimates and planned routing under the car are correct I might need to utilise a few more feet of line to route from the surge tank to the pump and then from the pump to the proposed filter location - unless i do it in hose.
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/7465/img0740cb.th.jpg (http://img189.imageshack.us/i/img0740cb.jpg/)

A photo would be worth a thousand words here so maybe I'll come back with one to show it once my fuel pump arrives - still waiting damn it.

I want the pump to sit in the LHR corner of the boot floor. There is a grommet hole in the floor behind the LHR wheel tub that passes through to the area behind the lower quarter panel. Under there I will have the fuel filter mounted (likely a BOSCH 0 450 905 003 filter). On later RX4's this is the revised location for the fuel pump. The feed line will then pass to the rear of the car around the back of the leaf spring shackle onto the inner side of the chassis rail and over the tunnel to the engine bay. The return line will simply trace the path of the OEM feed line - in actual fact I could use that original as the return line and save a few bucks on fittings.

I'm undecided which company/country to get all the fittings/hose from. I've mapped out roughly what the system entails and which fittings I *think* i'll need. Out of sheer curiosity I dropped into www.powerflowperformance.com.au It would be much easier if i had ALL of my fuel system parts on hand then i would know 100% which bits I need and can get a comparable quote. The hose compatibility (brand to brand) is doing my head in too. :confused: I think the only way to do it is a big excel sheet with part numbers and prices.

Its now apparent that there is no surge tank "off the shelf" that I'm happy with. From a number of perspectives: the mounting, the size and type of the outlets (small barb fittings or 3/8 npt), the orientation of the outlets, the prices etc. While looking around on the net I found a couple of places that sell the surge tank "shells" fairly cheaply (under $50). So I'll be ordering a shell and the weld in bungs in the sizes I need. That way I can set everything exactly where I want it and save again on fittings by using the right ones rather than a bunch of step-up adapters and unnecessary bends that could pose a restriction. This pic (from www.proraceproducts.com.au/?p=69) shows a variety of tank shells/bends etc. I couldn't seem to find anywhere in Victoria that stocks this sort of stuff - if anybody knows of somewhere please tip me off - it will save on postage.

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/6148/1005alloy01.th.jpg (http://img38.imageshack.us/i/1005alloy01.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
One little problem that emerged during the week was the fuel rail. I didn't recognise the issue until i went to mount the injectors - the bloody top rail is the wrong one - I think it might be from a six port. It will work if i mess around with a bracket but given the large number of blown rotors out there it should be a cinch to get the correct rail. Somebody must have a s5 turbo rail laying around.

And as for the Haltech: I draped the wiring loom in the engine bay, had a poke around and tried to run the loom through the old air-con holes - no joy. I need to cut a new hole and get a suitable grommet. (any suggestions? VN commodore or something common?). Unfortunately it seems too wet to bother going out to pick-a-part at the moment but I'll give it a go mid-week if it doesn't clear up. Now I have the replacement plugs for the TPS and CAS I can wire those in (easy job). Going through some old stuff I found a Haltech "trim control" to add to the system.

Oh, and I finally changed the bonnet hinges and lined it up as best I could be bothered given that its going to have to come off again. Swapped the driver's door trim and swapped out the RX2 steering wheel for a grotty old MoMo. The RX2 wheel randomly tripped the horn when I put a battery in it so hopefully this goes some way to fixing that problem although I think i need a new bush in the steering column too.

Having this week off has been great but I'm going to need another one where the only thing I have to do is play with the car. That 13 week deadline is sneaking up mighty fast!

Hoges

Turbo 351
27-02-11, 08:29 AM
Not sure how small 'dektites' come in from bunnings, but maybe one of them may do for a dodgy/cheap firewall grommet-Get them from the plumbing section ast bunnings, less than $10.

bumpstart
27-02-11, 09:49 AM
One little problem that emerged during the week was the fuel rail. I didn't recognise the issue until i went to mount the injectors - the bloody top rail is the wrong one - I think it might be from a six port. It will work if i mess around with a bracket but given the large number of blown rotors out there it should be a cinch to get the correct rail. Somebody must have a s5 turbo rail laying around.

NA fuel rail is radically different to the s4 and s5 turbo units
i suggest you more likely have a s4/s5 rail and LIM missmatch

the s5 LIM is easy to identify,, the secondary injector locations have vac nipples at the base
this LIM demands the mild steel fuel rail with integral FPR
the s4 rail will fit ( the s4 rail being all alum with screw on FPR and banjos ) if you use a washer or two under the mounting tabs to readjust the height differences

in vichy versa the s4 LIM does not have nipples at the base of the secondary injectors
it uses the alum rail only,, the s5 steel rail will mount too tall to hold in the injectors

aaron_hogan
27-02-11, 10:11 AM
*I'll be back with a photo shortly*

I know I have s5 UIM and LIM.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/5388/img0742k.th.jpg (http://img135.imageshack.us/i/img0742k.jpg/)

Do also have the steel rail but assumed that was the s4 one :knock: - in my defence the rails came separately to the engine and separately to the manifolds.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8773/img0741wr.th.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/i/img0741wr.jpg/)

So here I was trying to use the alloy rail when I observed it wouldn't bolt up. There's no way the alloy rail I have will work. Its just all sorts of wrong.

What's the fix here? Cut off the "integral" reg from the steel s5 rail and weld in a fitting? Or will leaving the integral reg on the rail do nothing or screw with pressure irrespective. :confused:

The steel fitting in the bottom part of the pic is actually for the turbo but I'm assuming a similar steel AN-6 fitting would do the trick. I just don't know how far in the reg protrudes. HALP!

bumpstart
27-02-11, 10:52 AM
*I'll be back with a photo shortly*

I know I have s5 UIM and LIM.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/5388/img0742k.th.jpg (http://img135.imageshack.us/i/img0742k.jpg/)

Do also have the steel rail but assumed that was the s4 one :knock: - in my defence the rails came separately to the engine and separately to the manifolds.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8773/img0741wr.th.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/i/img0741wr.jpg/)

So here I was trying to use the alloy rail when I observed it wouldn't bolt up. There's no way the alloy rail I have will work. Its just all sorts of wrong.

What's the fix here? Cut off the "integral" reg from the steel s5 rail and weld in a fitting? Or will leaving the integral reg on the rail do nothing or screw with pressure irrespective. :confused:

The steel fitting in the bottom part of the pic is actually for the turbo but I'm assuming a similar steel AN-6 fitting would do the trick. I just don't know how far in the reg protrudes. HALP!

you have s4 NA rails ( alum primary and secondary )
and s5 turbo secondary rail

you use the s4 NA primary rail
( the thing with plastic cover is the notorius burn me down dampner )
and the secondary s5T rail

remove all the fittings from the primary rail and banjo it at each end
the secondary rail requires the FPR cut off and a barbed nipple welded on
[ leaving it on will fuck with the pressures you see , and you can never set it lower than stock pressure ]
- you may wish to barb everything for 3/8,, but at that power level 5/16 will still do



you then set the fuel system up for parallel flows
if you have a single supply line,, easiest method is to tee the supply into the hose that is joining both rails
both rails have an exit ,, this goes and tees at the reg
( or alternatively use both in ports on the reg )

the system should now have the most equal pressure and delivery across all injectors at all flows
- each rail is fed from the tee and backfed from the reg if there is any flow issue

bumpstart
27-02-11, 11:07 AM
ps ,,check the numbers on the injectors,, looks like you have 3 x 690 and 1 x 660 cc
3 x 195500 0830
1 x 195500 0610
while they are close,,they are not the same ,, if there is budget a clean and flow check might be in order to be sure to be sure

if no budget,, leave it in the corner its already in,,,it may have been placed there in effort to trim some minor flow differential

aaron_hogan
27-02-11, 11:15 AM
schweet. I can raid another banjo from yet another rail to replace the dampener. I actually have two of those primary rails. One dampener has an audible rattle? Assuming they break or leak by your comment!

I'll go out and chop that reg off the steel rail now - I feel like doing something "constructive".

And yep I checked the part numbers and they're all the same. DENSO #9550-0830. Although you can see the different level of fading with one looking quite blue compared to the others being pale green. The blue one's part number is in slightly larger font.

Via AR I got an offer to clean and flow them for free - I just couldn't mail them off until I had the rails sorted.

Thanks for clearing this up for me. (after chopping the rail its back to the books).

OK: I'm back. CUNT OF A THING. So I cut it back in very small increments only to find the reg goes back quite some way into the rail. Its also mad out of some fucking hard steel. So while the diaphragm was easy to remove, actually getting the guts of it out is a pain. Tried drilling - nope. Tried twisting it out - nope. Looks like I will have to cut off the hose tail completely. I'll wait until I size up a weld on fitting because putting a hacksaw though it only takes a min (if that).

*disgruntled emoticon dousing the car in petrol*

slikrx
28-02-11, 07:13 AM
yo aaron, you know where to get ya fittings!

BMWTurbo
28-02-11, 08:07 AM
Looks like I will have to cut off the hose tail completely. I'll wait until I size up a weld on fitting because putting a hacksaw though it only takes a min (if that).

*disgruntled emoticon dousing the car in petrol*

That will be because the regulator needs to 'regulate' before the hose tail, ie the hose tail is there to let the fuel that has pushed past the regulator to return to the tank. The pressure is held on the rail side of the hose tail.