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View Full Version : 91 Maverick SWB, backyard turbo conversion



Supercrown
30-04-11, 09:24 PM
Pics of rig/manifold Supercrown. Always like to see how ASE does a manifold.

Here's the daily driver.

May dad bought it about 6-7 years ago, and when he passed away a couple of years ago, it came to live with me.

1991 SWB Ford Maverick (GQ Patrol)
TD42
Holset turbo (no idea what type - it was free)
ASE merge style stainless steampipe manifold
RX7 top mount cooler
Sard external gate
3 inch straight through exhaust
Goanna lockers front and rear
Shift kitted auto
Raised 2 inches I think
Non descript wheels and tyres

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/2619/p4300012.jpg


When he bought it, it was an NA diesel, and the bloke from whom he bought it had had it converted from a TB42 to a low km TD42.

About 4-5 years ago I had ASE here in adelaide make a nice merge collector type manifold for it to mount up a fresh Holset turbo taken from a stationary diesel generator.

The turbo is a free floater (no internal gate), so a 2nd hand SARD external gate was fitted up as well.

I fitted an RX7 top mount intercooler and a GU Patrol hood scoop to feed it fresh air.

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/236/p4300008a.jpg

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/1986/p4300007s.jpg

When I first set it up it was too laggy, which I was kinda expecting given the size of the turbine housing.

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/8779/p4300010.jpg

It is a split pulsed housing, and the manifold is open, so I just made up a blanking plate to block off one of the turbine entries and force everything through the other one. That dropped boost threshold by over 500rpm which was spot on - and also made more boost and grunt everywhere.

A few weeks a go I wanted it to go a bit faster, so I used the adjustment bolt on the top of the sard gate to clamp it up completely and see what boost it would make. It had been running about 11psi, and with the gate clamped shut it then made about 14psi. From there I just wound the fuel screw in until it made the boost I was happy with - 20-21psi - and off it went. (have checked mixtures and EGT - all good - allowing the turbo to freefloat means it never gets close to stoichomertric/high EGT)

The only issue now it that with all the extra grunt, the original converter is washing out to almost 3000rpm at times. The shift points are set really early to take advantage fo the additional turbo torque, but when it up shifts the motor flares a fair bit - and going up hills the converter won't let the motor do less than 2000rpm. To fix that it's off to MVs this week to have the converter de-stalled as far as it will go which should really improve things and also help fuel economy. It's also got a button to lock the converter clutch, but the lining has worn out, so that will be upgraded to cope with being locked up at reasonable load.

I don't use it off road - it's really a tow horse - but I may take it out at some stage just to see if it will rooster tail up dirt tracks.

i have toyed with the idea of fiddling with it a bit more, but until the Crown is largely finished it'll stay this way.

It's good fun to drive, is pretty toey, will tow a house and the holset makes pretty spectacular fuckenwhoosh sounds.

(although it may get a propane kit in the next 6 months if I can be bothered - I plumbed in a BBQ bottle for a weekend as an experimement and it gave a significant HP jump)

BigMuz
30-04-11, 09:44 PM
That's hawt!

What were you trying to fix with a wastegate? I don't think I've heard of any normal diesel getting more boost than desired..

myliberty
30-04-11, 10:13 PM
This thread is relevant to my interests.

Supercrown
01-05-11, 12:45 AM
That's hawt!

What were you trying to fix with a wastegate? I don't think I've heard of any normal diesel getting more boost than desired..

There wasn't anything to be fixed - the SARD is just there as the turbo had no gate itself. Mind you, as I said, I've clamped the fucker shut now anyway.:)

I'm not sure how much HP a TD42 will support - ie connecting rods and such - but I've seen a couple of TD42s that have been leant on pretty hard, so I figure I just gradually up the ante.

One thing I need to do is learn more about upgrading the fuel pump flow - That's the key to diesel HP. First step is getting a fuel pump from a GU TD42T which has a 'fuel aneroid', which is some kind of boost compensating doodad.

TRD-RT81
01-05-11, 01:30 AM
does the pump have a return line? you can get more fuel by restricting the return line on some pumps, with a needle valve and a solenoid it can work well to set your rich mixture when you are feeding it LPG...

be careful of the piston and rod power limits very easy to go a little to far with a diesel :D

bigshipengine.jpg
01-05-11, 09:53 AM
Good stuff.
I like the budget backyard approach.
Look forward to whats to come.

Sketchy
01-05-11, 09:17 PM
This thread needs video. Now.

Supercrown
04-10-11, 05:23 PM
Currently cobbling together a methanol/water injection system for this.

Power gains appear to be significant with 50/50 water meth mix going off the information available on the web.

Goal is to spend under $200 and installation of less than 4 hours. (the system will have no moving parts)

Will put up back to back dyno sheets.

If it works, I'll post up the info on the bits required.:)

hrt5l
04-10-11, 10:40 PM
sounds very interesting

nine2nine
05-10-11, 01:02 PM
Pretty keen also on the details of what you end up using.
going to set my s/c moo motor up with some water/meth.

Supercrown
05-10-11, 02:02 PM
The system I'm piecing together doesn't require a pump, and uses the generated boost pressure to atomise the water/meth mixture using a specific type of atomizing nozzle.

It injects just in front of the turbo, and due to the atomisation - only 30 micron or so - there is no compressor wheel issue. There will be an ajustment valve to tune water/meth delivery rate. (water meth mixture can be anywhere from 100:0, up to 25:75 or even higher depending EGTs)

Solenoids can be added in to switch the system on/off at specific boost levels, but I'll just start with a system that's flowing whenever the truck is on boost - should be uber cheap.

Should work nicely on a SC also.

Supercrown
06-10-11, 03:02 PM
I was doing a bit of research, and it looks like the system I'm putting together is basically the same as the system that is sold by a certain rotary fuckwit (guess who...initials are RR) for about $900.....

Although the guy is a total fuckwit, the system works very well, so I know this will work a treat.

It will be a little more expensive than originally planned as the atomizing nozzle was just under $200, but thats the only costly bit. With a bit more searching, that price can probably come down anyway.

Supercrown
07-10-11, 04:41 PM
I spent a whole hour getting this set-up in a bit of a nigger way last night - at present the nozzle is being fed boost pressure, and the water side is just pulling from the washer bottle via siphon and I haven't got any adjustment on the water/alcohol mix.

All I had was a couple of litres of metho, so I added it to the washer bottle plus a liter of water for a 67/33 water to alcohol ratio.

First impressions - seat of the pants says definite power increase - probably 20hp minimum at a guess given I can really feel it. The truck is pretty damn nippy now.

The most noticeable thing is the fact that it pulls for much longer in the upper rev range - this is commonly shown in dyno tests with water/alcohol into diesels.

Without the valve to restrict water flow, it's chomping through water/alcohol, but that's simple to fix.

Not sure just yet, but it may be smart to put a pressure release regulator in the air feed to the nozzle to stop the nozzle spraying intil 4-5 psi just to limit consumption when cruising.

Currently the nozzle is just jammed in the inlet pipe at 90 degrees which is less than ideal, but on the weekend I'll sort that and get it pointing straight at the compressor wheel. I'll also get some methanol to run over the weekend also.

Dyno runs to confirm findings shortly.

hrt5l
19-10-11, 10:25 PM
Done dyno runs yet? The problem is with a Gq TD42 is before you can get any major gains with water/meth injection your going to run out of fuel pump. It will be good to see some results though.

Supercrown
20-10-11, 04:43 PM
Yep - did a quick and dirty dyno run yesterday and it picked up 15rwkw.

Oddly though, the mixture of 70/30 ethanol (metho)/water was the best.

Another thing that became clear is that I'm out of turbo - nuts! even with the WG clamped shut it made only 15 psi up top (in the lower regions it'll make up to 20)

Anyway - it certainly works, with gains being had everywhere.

The thing with the meth/alch injection is that it actually provides added fuel as well, so if you are out of pump you can squirt in a water/meth mixture and it will pick up HP.

It wasn't making as much power as I thought - 82rwkw on the base run (98rwkw best with the spray)- but as it is a pretty stally converter a fair bit is hiding in there. I'm currently out of pump already as the fuel screw is wound all the way in.

Must........resist............modding............. ...truck............fucking............finish..... .......crown............douchebag

mrniceguy
20-10-11, 05:16 PM
Cool build. With regards to the stall rpms, ive heard of people running hydraulic/tractor fluid (or a 50:50 mix with tranny fluid) to drop stall speeds (due to it being thicker.) Obviously you have to get the stuff thats suitable for wet clutches though. Never done it myself, but could be worth looking into.

Supercrown
20-10-11, 05:24 PM
Very interesting.

Would be good to drop the stall speed a bit - I've already had the converter de-stalled, but it could go further. I shall investigate.

hrt5l
20-10-11, 06:05 PM
Yep - did a quick and dirty dyno run yesterday and it picked up 15rwkw.

Oddly though, the mixture of 70/30 ethanol (metho)/water was the best.

Another thing that became clear is that I'm out of turbo - nuts! even with the WG clamped shut it made only 15 psi up top (in the lower regions it'll make up to 20)

Anyway - it certainly works, with gains being had everywhere.

The thing with the meth/alch injection is that it actually provides added fuel as well, so if you are out of pump you can squirt in a water/meth mixture and it will pick up HP.

It wasn't making as much power as I thought - 82rwkw on the base run (98rwkw best with the spray)- but as it is a pretty stally converter a fair bit is hiding in there. I'm currently out of pump already as the fuel screw is wound all the way in.

Must........resist............modding............. ...truck............fucking............finish..... .......crown............douchebag

Thats pretty impressive results for a stock pump. Would love to see the gains with a big pump and 30psi
ps. the stock engines are good for 30+ psi, hint hint.
pps. or you could finish the crown.

nine2nine
20-10-11, 06:55 PM
Nice work, some worthwhile % gains when youve got 83kw to start with.

Got some details of your parts list?

Supercrown
20-10-11, 10:32 PM
Yeah - I'll put some details up tomorrow.

Dansedgli
20-10-11, 11:03 PM
That's a good gain for $200 odd.

Did you change the settings on the pump to get the extra 15kw or was it all due to the spray?

Supercrown
21-10-11, 10:56 AM
The only thing I touched was the spray - everything else was left as is - no changes to fuel screw whatsoever.

LaNcEGT4
21-10-11, 01:10 PM
where'd you end up getting the nozzle from?

Supercrown
21-10-11, 01:54 PM
Nozzle is a PNR air atomizing nozzle that uses compressed air and pulls liquid from a reservoir by siphon action.

Link (http://www.tecpro.com.au/documents/AirAtomisingNozzles.pdf)

It's the SUC 2105 model, listed on page 4 of 7 in the link, and the schematic on the bottom left of page 7 of 7 shows what the nozzle assembly looks like overall.

Tecpro (www.tecpro.com.au/) are who I bought it from.

In addition, you want an ajustable valve on the water inlet side to fiddle the liquid flow. On the dyno I found that over a certain liquid flow point there was no additional gain to be had - but in my case I suspect this also has something to do with the fact that the turbo compressor looks to be tapped.

You set it up pointing straight at the compressor, and the nozzle atomizes very well, so there is no issue with compressor wheel damage. When I was testing the nozzle, I had it spraying with no water droplets hitting the ground, the spray is that fine.

If you look at the data sheet, you can see that the water flow rate changes with the head differential, so the best way to set it up is to have the boost pressure also pressurise the reservoir to get constant water flow. At the moment i've just got the fluid in the washer bottle, but will make up a reservour capable of withstanding 20 or psi.

The nozzle isn't cheap at just under $200, however the remaining valve and a few push-fit pneumatic fittings I had lyning around. It's simple to set-up, but could do with a bit more fiddling to refine it, however it works quite well at present. Even you just run straight water there is a HP gain, but it also drops EGT by 150 deg +, which is great for engine longevity when towing.

LaNcEGT4
21-10-11, 02:06 PM
The nozzle which RR uses in his kits, albeit, i'd dare say has been opened up to give more water.

B1/4J+SUE18DF AIR ATOM.NOZ.BST.BR DF 6in stock $158.15 each+ gst. Del by air bag $20.00

That was from Spray Systems Co.

Supercrown
21-10-11, 02:19 PM
You don't need to open it up as such - the body of the valve is a std piece for all the nozzles listed in those pages and then the air and liquid caps are what you change to make it an external mix type, higher flow etc etc. And once you begin to pressurise the reservoir the potential flow rate goes through the roof - you just choke it with the liquid valve.

Once you have the main body and the water/air caps, changing type means only buying new caps.

When I was looking for WI results I stumbled across the RR site, and the circuit he uses is identical with the only difference being that he uses a MAC valve in the water line and a pressure switch to turn it on/off at a set boost level.

I saw a RR kit, and noted that he had engraved 'RR 1.0' on the body of the valve by hand - looked like it was done by a 2yo:lol:

ls400x
21-10-11, 03:43 PM
What proportion of the gain would you attribute to the meths energy content? I agree with others; impressive gain. Thinking about it, the difference between a water only run would give an approximate answer.

Supercrown
21-10-11, 08:38 PM
I do have actual numbers for comparison - will post dyno sheet when I get the jpeg.

Supercrown
21-10-11, 09:24 PM
I should add also - surprisingly during my dodgey dyno test, the water/ethanol (metho - 95%eth, 5% meth) actually gave the biggest gain.

I found this interesting as the latent heat of vaporisation of ethanol is only half that of methanol.

One thing I will clarify is that I couldn't get hold of pure methanol, so the meth runs were actually done with hobby fuel which was 15% synthetic lube, 15% nitromethane and 70% methanol.

Also - both the above fluids - metho and hobby fuel were both done at a mix ratio of approx 70% fuel/30% water.

So I'm still not 100% clear on what is the best thing to use. I may conceive a more thorough test proceedure, but at present I should just finish the fucking crown.

At a base level, anyone who decides to embark on spraying water/alcohol into a diesel can be assured that it will make a difference.

At worst, water only will reduce EGT with a slight HP increase, and then adding alcohol will only increase power. There are people doing petrol injection on diesels, but a bit more care may be required to prevent engine destruction!

A useful site I used to calc required flow rates was Devilsown (http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/) in the US - and maybe buying one of their kits wouldn't be a bad investement. It would not be too much more than what I spent, but may provide more control.

Hope this info helps the diesel brothers around here!

Sketchy
31-10-11, 11:20 PM
Have you got a list and/or mspaint of the setup in regards to pumps/switches/wiring? I reckon I'd like to have a crack at this on my TD navara.

Supercrown
11-11-11, 02:40 PM
Hey Sketchy - I'll do up a diagram and some pics of the components.

The only thing it is missing is a way of having the system only trigger above a certain PSI - I want to work something out that is uber cheap.

nine2nine
11-11-11, 07:48 PM
Hey mate, i used one of these for my locker on the paj, tiny little thing but it works really well and can be set to any pressure.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/water-methanol-injection-boost-pressure-switch-/110769766621?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ca6480dd

Supercrown
11-11-11, 08:13 PM
I was figuring to use something like that for the trigger, but the thing I need to search for is a cheap solenoid.

In the RR kits, he uses a Mac valve and shuts off the water, but those are too expensive for this project!

Anyone have any ideas for a budget solenoid?

HoonBoy
11-11-11, 09:17 PM
LPG solenoid?

Tripper
11-11-11, 09:17 PM
IF you have a trigger for it sorted, perhaps look in the gardening section of bunnings, look towards the auto sprinklers shit, they use them in air powered spud guns, size might be too large cant hurt to look.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3EOdNP6Iag

Supercrown
11-11-11, 09:24 PM
Might be worth a look.

Only issue could be flow rate, but a watering solenoid should flow a buttload in comparison to the required flow rate.

Will check both - cheers boys!

In a couple of weeks I'll get my hands on some pure methanol from a racer mate so will test that too.

Tripper
12-11-11, 07:19 PM
what about using a central door locking actuator $10 for a slave from jaycar, and you could use it to operate a ball valve or modify one of those trigger nozzles for a garden hose

da9jeff
31-01-12, 10:15 PM
hows this thing going? is there much difference in where you mount the water nozzle? pre/post turbo and pre/post IC?

Also, have you thought about E85 and water? not sure if it would mix but could be a cheap cooling liquid if it does.

Supercrown
27-03-12, 06:20 PM
Thread dredge.....

After my super nigger rigged PVC inlet duct melted and collapsed (to prove the concept I made up a quick and dirty inlet duct to allow the misting nozzle to fire straight at the compressor wheel using a Y piece and some 75mm pvc pipe), I finally got around to modifying the steel inlet pipe to allow the nozzle to be mounted permanently and have it firing the mist stream directly at the comp wheel.

It was a bit of fiddling to make up the little blind spigot and weld it into the side of the pipe, but it was necessary.

When I tried the nozzle at 90 degrees to the airflow – just mounted into a hole drilled into the pipe (lazy first attempt) – the mist was dropping out into liquid a fair bit, resulting in standing liquid in the inlet pipe. Whilst not a disaster, standing liquid being sucked into the comp wheel does result in damage/erosion over time.

So at present, the ‘air’ side of the misting nozzle is just fed boost pressure from a feed off the intercooler.

The nozzle is specifically a ‘siphoning’ unit so the pressurised air feed through the nozzle causes liquid to be drawn from an unpressurised reservoir into the ‘liquid’ side of the nozzle.

The pressurised air and liquid interact at the nozzle tip, with the liquid and air combining into an ultra fine mist.

When I did the quick and dirty dyno test, straight water gave a couple of rwkw, Hobby fuel (70%meth, 15%nitromethane, 15%synlube) gave about 7-8rwk but tended to cause rattling unless mixed with 30% water, with the best result by far and away being 15rwkw gain on 30%water 70%metho (95%ethanol, 5%methanol).

As I couldn't work out how to get the auto to hold gears, what the dyno test didn't get to show up was the improvement in response that was clearly evident when driving it around. I tried unplugging everything we could see that connected to the gearbox but still couldn't stop it kicking down. When driving it around, the turbo spools noticeably faster with less throttle required to get up to traffic speed or when climbing familiar hills. Whilst the metho/water mix gives the biggest power increase, even running straight water gives a noticeable improvement in response/reduction in lag. I figure it's down to the fact that the cooling effect of the water offsets the inlet air temp increase effected by the turbo compressing the air - the result being that the turbos efficiency/air density is greatly improved.

I've now put a fair few miles on it with various fluids through the nozzle and there's no doubt it is more responsive.

So yeah - the top end power gain is only part of the story, with the improvement in general response during general driving being the thing you notice the most.

To boot, providing you keep the flammable liquid percentage below about 70% you pick up response and power whilst lowering the EGT and reducing the thermal load on the slugs and valves - win win.

Last nights experiment was dumping 5L of coolant (ethylene glycol) and a bit of water in the reservoir, and it worked brilliantly. Noticeable power and response improvement. Next job is to make a reservoir that can be pressurised to eliminate the liquid flow rate reduction that occurs as the level in the reservoir drops - meaning the head difference changes - and the greater the vertical distance the liquid has to be drawn, the lesser the flow rate. (changes of less than 200mm affect the rate).

At the minute though, I just keep filling it up with water and every now and then load it up with metho if I feel like a bit more HP.

http://img807.imageshack.us/img807/3343/20120327161116.jpg
Shot at 2012-03-26

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/5081/20120327161129.jpg
Shot at 2012-03-26

http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/6874/20120327161152.jpg
Shot at 2012-03-26

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/7423/20120327161158.jpg
Shot at 2012-03-26

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/648/20120327161345.jpg
Shot at 2012-03-26

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/9476/20120327161501.jpg
Shot at 2012-03-26

And just for posterity, see below the PVC nigger rigged inlet pipe that melted. Truly a monument to my inherent laziness.
(I never posted a picture of the PVC setup when I set it up because it just looked too rank and was embarrassing - mind you it did deliver the 15rwkw gain on the dyno, but driving up a steep hill in 35 degrees with no water in the tank to cool the inlet pipe was just too much - it melted, collapsed on itself and completely sealed off the turbo from any incoming air, stopping me dead. I shat myself as initially I thought I'd finally blown the motor. LOL)

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/7558/201203271923331.jpg
Shot at 2012-03-27

Supercrown
27-03-12, 08:51 PM
hows this thing going? is there much difference in where you mount the water nozzle? pre/post turbo and pre/post IC?

Also, have you thought about E85 and water? not sure if it would mix but could be a cheap cooling liquid if it does.

Ah yes - I have been planning to test E85 and should get to it pretty soon. The trick with it will be getting it to absorb as much water as possible as with only e85 it may cause a bit of rattling/preignition, but given the amount of rattling the motor has absorbed so far without issue, it should survive the flow-rate set-up phase (I hope)

nine2nine
27-03-12, 11:15 PM
Nice and simple and works a treat - i like it. How long would it take to use a few litres? As a turbo diesel sits on boost on the highway, would you be topping up every 100kms?

Supercrown
28-03-12, 11:44 PM
To be honest, I haven't really got around to properly assessing the appropriate flow rate for each mixture.

With water, it seems I can have the liquid restrictor valve fully open and just let it dump in the max flow rate. As the water has zero combustion potential there is no risk of pre-ignition, and there isn't any reduction in performance with the flow rate set to max. On a 45min freeway run at 110/120kmh through the adelaide hills, with boost anywhere from 5 to 20 psi (avg probably about 8-10 psi) it chomped through about 3L of water. At the moment I'm just using the washer reservoir, so it only holds 3L I think.

If you use a good size tank - say 20L - it'd last a fair while - and with some reasonable testing you could see how far back the flow rate could be wound whilst still giving good gains.

mondo2000
29-03-12, 10:07 PM
Any noticeable reduction in black soot out the zorst?

If you're taking the head off please take pics. I'd be interested to see how clean it is.

Supercrown
30-03-12, 10:15 PM
No reduction in soot that I can tell, but as it's set to freeboost the only time it blows a touch of black is when I bury my foot from a standstill when there's no boost in the system. On the freeway cranking up hills at 110/120 kmh in OD with the converter unlocked (just on the limit of kicking back to 3rd - my foot is well in it at this point) it sits on a constant 20psi@2700-2800rpm with zero soot anyway due to the over supply of air.

I've just started a new job and am driving the truck 115 km to/from each day on the freeway. I'm sitting between 110-120kmh through the adelaide hills and it's returning economy of 12.8L/100 which I think is pretty good considering it weighs well over 2000kg and has the aerodynamic pedigree of a brick wrapped in barbed wire.

Next week I'm going to drive the 380 to work one day to see what economy it returns for the same run at the same speed. Considering it did 9.2l/100 at 115/120km/h on the flat run from melbourne I'm not expecting it to do much better than the pootrol on the run through the hills actually.

How tragic. My has been reduced to comparing vehicle economy......................................LOL

Supercrown
05-05-13, 05:01 AM
Nothing has really changed mechanically, but I have put some effort into getting it looking tidy, rather than nigger.

I fucked off the stock rims and put some black 15x8s on it with dueller 694s 32X11.50R15 rubber.

I got the bullbar powder coated black and had the couple of dings I put in it fixed.

Next is dark tint.

I towed 2.5+ tonnes of wood/trailer from Waitpinga back to Adelaide today, and with the bigger trans cooler on it now doesn't ping the trans temp light as easily.

When we got back I unloaded the trailer and then jumped back in it. It had been off for a good 45 mins so had cooled down - and the run to home is 4 km of downhill anyway.

However - when I jumped in it would only select 1st gear. I put it in drive but it won't change out of first - fuck!

Mind you, this is the first issue it's ever had, despite lots of nasty towing, so I'm not that pissed.

irsa76
05-05-13, 02:40 PM
Thought of LPG?

nine2nine
05-05-13, 08:49 PM
Water/meth is much better than LPG.

LPG is expensive and increases combustion temps to make more power. Water/meth is cheap and decreases combustion temps to make more power. Water/meth will normally provide a greater power/torque increase than LPG also.

Gavatron
05-05-13, 10:21 PM
I should try and find that skid vid from thePF xmas party at TKs a few years back...

irsa76
05-05-13, 11:05 PM
Cheers nine2nine. I've seen alot of discussion about LPG injection over the years, know a few guys who've played with it in the US with good results.

Supercrown
06-05-13, 12:37 AM
I have the pre-turbo, liquid atomising nozzle on this obviously, and have fucked around with a bunch of different things. Ethanol (metho) straight and cut with water at varying percentages, Methanol in various concentrations - including 20% nitro hobby fuel, diesel, LPG (super basic BBQ bottle nigger rigged into intake) - though I have avoided petrol. With the ethanol blends it increased rwkw by a significant amount (12kW or something like that - which is significant if you are making less than 100kW)

I have a daily drive to work that varies very little - 15km of winding hills road and then 40km on the freeway in the opposite direction to morning traffic (basically zero traffic) - so I tried to see if I could improve economy with injecting different stuff.

Ultimately I found that although I could improve economy a little, the cash that I had to spend on whatever was being used outweighed the mileage improvement.

After 2 years of experimenting I basically came to the conclusion that if I wanted any serious HP gains on it that I would need to stump up and get the main pump modified to significantly increase fuel flow and grab a matching blower. The injecting thing seemed good for transient power increase, but there was always the fucking around with it, making sure the tank is full, buying whatever it was etc.

The main thing that I use it for now is straight water when I'm towing 2.5+ tonnes to keep the EGTs down whilst climbing at 3/4 throttle and 20psi for minutes at a time.

TD42T
06-05-13, 09:52 AM
Advance the pump timing. That will help economy and EGT's. EGT's will rise quicker but be less overall. It will be a little slower to build boost, but this will be offset by better engine response
Avoid lpg and any type of petrol, compression ignition engines with variable loads are really hard to get it setup correctly so it doesn't cause damage.
As for your water/meth setup, I know guys running upto 700cc/min jets on TD42's. Keep upping the jet until it stumbles and then go back a bit.
And yes decent power only comes with a big pump, but you can have great economy with that also. My GU Ute which is 210rwkw and 700nm returns constant fuel figures around 12.8ltrs/100km, highway or driving around town.
Keep up the good work, love what your doing.

Marty

Supercrown
06-05-13, 07:18 PM
Do you have any tech diagrams of the pump that identifies what the various screws do?

The only one I've diddled with is the main fuel screw (I wound it in to the point where it dictates the idle speed).

For the 210kW have you had the pump done? What other stuff?

I'm getting 13L+/100 on the highway with a locked converter and 14-15 round town.

As this has a much higher stall converter due to the fact it started life as a petrol, advancing pump timing shouldn't give me much/any lag as the turbo gets well into positive pressure before the stall point at the moment.

ls400x
06-05-13, 09:47 PM
http://www.rocken-tech.com/RotorHeads.html

this is what you need.

Also, anecdotal evidence suggests that cast log ex manifolds build boost significantly sooner and make more power throughout the whole rev range. Examples over on patrol4x4sandyvagforum.com

TD42T
07-05-13, 12:35 AM
Yes, first thing to do change the manifold. Short, compact cast manifold to retain as much heat as possible, better drive pressure for turbo.
Earlier pumps without a compensator on them basically only has the main fuel screw you can play with.
Loosen the 3 nuts that hold the pump on, and the support bracket bolt underneath if its still there, and pull it away from the motor towards the guard. Do it in about 3mm stages until you are happy. If the pump is in decent condition it should start to rattle a little.
Once you have done that crank some fuel into it with the main screw until the revs are a little slow to come down, but leaves you a little idle adjustment.
Wind the boost up to control the EGT's. After all that you may get 100-110rwkw plus whatever the w/m gives.
Forgot it was auto, that would be fun.
With a 11mm GU type pump you could expect upto about 140-145 on fuel only with 26-28psi.
No need for 14mm heads unless you are trying to spin up large wheeled turbos, the 12mm pumps are fine.
Nothing special about my Ute, good 12mm pump, cheap arse 600x300x100bar and plate cooler,2871 with a .5 compressor cover on it and a bit over 30psi. Trying a few different things at the minute though.

Marty

Supercrown
08-05-13, 08:31 PM
http://www.rocken-tech.com/RotorHeads.html

this is what you need.

Also, anecdotal evidence suggests that cast log ex manifolds build boost significantly sooner and make more power throughout the whole rev range. Examples over on patrol4x4sandyvagforum.com

If you get the runner size right (often significantly smaller than port size) and properly lag them to begin with you will drop spool and pick up HP over a log. Most aftermarket runner manifolds have runner sizes waaay waay too big. This one has runners that are too big but I wanted it sized so I could use it on a decent HP petrol 4.5 if I got bored.

Thanks for the info gents- will need to read and digest supplied info. the pumps are still well and truly a black box to me.

hrt5l
08-05-13, 09:36 PM
Interesting info there supercrown, got any links to tech articles on proper manifold runner sizing?

vet 180
08-05-13, 11:21 PM
love it

vet 180
08-05-13, 11:39 PM
love it!

TD42T
09-05-13, 08:39 AM
If you get the runner size right (often significantly smaller than port size) and properly lag them to begin with you will drop spool and pick up HP over a log. Most aftermarket runner manifolds have runner sizes waaay waay too big. This one has runners that are too big but I wanted it sized so I could use it on a decent HP petrol 4.5 if I got bored.

Thanks for the info gents- will need to read and digest supplied info. the pumps are still well and truly a black box to me.

Yep, I understand your thinking and I viewed it the same also.
I have a mate that is a anal perfectionist engineer, god love him, and td42 nut. He has sat down and crunched all the numbers, built many various manifolds and tested the lot. In the end he cast his own manifolds to get what he wanted, admittedly this was 20yrs ago. To get maximum spool at close to the max torque point, 2200rpm the runner length needs to be around 200mm long. Not possible with a fabricated design. His conclusion for the best possible compromise was the short cast log style. He has explained to me the science of it all, being diesel, effect of EMP and density etc on the turbine, maintaining the temperature, it does my head in. Google "OldMav manifolds" .
I have spent hours on the phone to him in the last few days trying to sort out some exhaust housing issue with my latest escapade, great info, just can't understand half of it. LOL.
I'll have my Ute on the dyno again tomorrow with some results for the current billet wheel setup, but I have fucked the exhaust housing up, so not expecting great results, infact it has gone backwards badly. The joys of playing I guess.

Marty

da9jeff
09-05-13, 01:29 PM
Was reading a yankee thread on a boosted D40 the other day, 2.5L, GT28XX something turbo, 31psi, some sort of tunable chip and a carter black fuel pump for a lift pump (which allowed him to wind a little more boost in) - made just over 300hp @flywheel. The poms and thais are getting even more again out of the CRD's.

MRMOPARMAN
10-05-13, 10:14 PM
arent all YD25's CRD?

da9jeff
10-05-13, 10:38 PM
yes

TD42T
16-05-13, 11:20 PM
Here you go.
TD42T GU ute.
4th gear from 1100rpm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wq1c_FRs178

Marty

Supercrown
18-05-13, 12:46 PM
Had the trans checked out for the refusal to shift out of 1st - turned out it was just the speed sensor.

Whist MV were at it I asked them to do a service as well.

When they drained the fluid it is a nice grey colour. Not good.

When the pan was dropped, the magnet looked like a donut shaped porcupine (ie covered in metal flakes....) The trans had metal all through it.

This truck started life as a petrol automatic and the bloke before me put an import silver rocker cover N/A TD42 into it, reusing the existing converter and gearbox.

The petrol and diesel converters are different, so this had the smaller petrol converter which gave it a higher stall speed which meant that up most hills it would flare to 2000-2200 rpm depending on the slope - which for the diesel was a bit too much really - especially as I had turboed this and increased the low end torque even more.

It also had a converter lock switch which I use on the freeway - and without the lock it would flare way too much at 110+km/hr.

Complicating things was the fact that the smaller diameter of the petrol converter clutch is of a smaller diameter and area than the diesel one, and the linepressure profile against throttle opening is different between the two, meaning that the clutch would slip at low throttle % and only properly grab with a bit more opening %.

This bit of slip was what gradually wore off the clutch surface down to bare metal, then progressively sending metal throughout the trans.

Fuck fuck fuckity fuck.

Soooo -

I had a GU turbo diesel converter built up for it.

MV went to bolt it in - no go. The flex plate in it and the new converter wouldn't go together. Fuck again.

So I got a GQ TD42 diesel flex plate. Put the new flex plate next to the old one - they were exactly the same. Cunt. (meaning the early model flex plates are the same for diesel and petrol)

Did a bit more research - the late model TD42T and early N/A TD42 motors have different cranks - hence there is no std flex plate to bolt a late model turbo diesel converter onto an early N/A TD42. More fucks.

Fortunately it was as simple as redrilling the bolt holes in the flex plate to attach the big converter - thank christ.

Next problem - with the converter all set, the existing petrol bellhousing was too small to hold the larger converter, with there still being a 30mm gap between the back of the motor and the bellhousing when the converter fouled it.

At this point there was an infinite number of fucks flying about.

So then a GU 4.2 turbo diesel auto bellhousing was sourced - which solved the problem and allowed everything to bolt up - except the starter now.
FFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

So the starte mount had to be modified. Okay - all good.

Then went to finish installation, and guess what - no go.

The new bellhousing locates the gearbox an additional 10mm further back.

KILL ME NOW - AAAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHH

So then the x member and a bunch of exhaust mounts had to be modified.

Finally it all went together. What a fucking saga.

On the first drive though it was all worth it. On the brake it now stalls at just over 1100rpm instead of 1800-1900.

the truck is transformed - uses less fuel and goes a shit ton faster. Im going to get it dynoed to see the difference - it will be huge.

PS - fuck nissan - if this had been a toyota it would have all just bolted up - LOL

MRMOPARMAN
18-05-13, 01:17 PM
wow, what a fuck around.

so why not just use GQ TD42 auto gear? hard to source im guessing?

Supercrown
18-05-13, 02:58 PM
Yeah - GQ diesel auto stuff is ultra rare.

We went for the GU turbo diesel converter to get the lowest stall speed (the GQ diesel converter is setup for the lower torque of the N/A 4.2 plus are super super rare) but we didn't reckon on the amount of differences. Fortunately though all the issues were relatively simple to overcome.

If I was to do it again it would be easy - it was just that we were discovering the issues as we went along.

The change in stall speed has made the truck go from good to fucking awesome.

ls400x
18-05-13, 10:21 PM
Here you go.
TD42T GU ute.
4th gear from 1100rpm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wq1c_FRs178

Marty

This saddens my stock td42ti ute