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Shifty
04-05-11, 05:53 PM
guys

i was talking to a guy today in brisbane who has a sunny. apparently he's given it away twice over the years but it keeps coming back when people are done with it.

if anyone wants a 13's for $1300 shitter then this is the car for you!

first pm gets the details

Sketchy
04-05-11, 05:57 PM
Not sure why but PM sent :)

ALLMTR
04-05-11, 06:03 PM
What does the second pm get?

towie
04-05-11, 06:15 PM
Christine kept coming back....

Shifty
04-05-11, 07:39 PM
this is lucky phil...

<---cop
05-05-11, 12:12 AM
Did sketchy take this?

Shifty
05-05-11, 09:05 AM
i assume so! he has the details.

if not then batwoman is next in line.

Tils
05-05-11, 09:22 AM
If a Datsun Sunny was Christine, I think the most likely cause of death for those in the alternative take would be- chest infection from the inhalation of mouldy carpet spores and Tetanus from rusty cuts. Other ideas? LOL

Sketchy
07-05-11, 06:29 PM
Other ideas are what the fuck to fit to make it go fast :)

First (and probably only) stipulation: no moo.

Have several drivetrains in mind currently, but open to advice on engine options.

Any datsun nutters who can tell me about these things would be appreciated. I actually owned a sunny coupe for a while till it blew a bottom hose while out grass hacking and cooked the head. Never really looked at it hard in terms of go fast shit though.

blownhemi
07-05-11, 06:32 PM
other ideas are what the fuck to fit to make it go fast :)

first (and probably only) stipulation: No moo.

Have several drivetrains in mind currently, but open to advice on engine options.

Any datsun nutters who can tell me about these things would be appreciated. I actually owned a sunny coupe for a while till it blew a bottom hose while out grass hacking and cooked the head. Never really looked at it hard in terms of go fast shit though.


vh45 :)

BigMuz
07-05-11, 06:41 PM
Twin turbo 253.

Sketchy
07-05-11, 06:47 PM
vh45 :)

a12 to vh45, shouldnt be a problem at all :rotflol:

Ideas so far:

Datto l20 plus gas or ghetto turbo, been done lots, should be easy/cheap

Astron 2.6 same deal, strong engine, again should be easy cheap

Left field Volvo b23e same deal, bonus of good diff, brakes, etc etc and can buy a complete car for nix for conversion as well as bolt on turbo bits

Toyota 3mz or Mistu 3l v6 adapted to rwd, toyota preferably but will probably be easier to adapt a triton/pajero aisin auto as long as the transfer case is detachable. Should have enough scrotum to do it N/A, sniff of gas if required.

rover 3.5 v8 for lols :D and then epic frustration :sad::knock:

<---cop
07-05-11, 06:52 PM
$200 VN.

Complete drivetrain swap + NOS.

12s for $500.

Sketchy
07-05-11, 07:18 PM
First (and probably only) stipulation: no moo.



Reading > you. No moo. Period.

lysdexia
07-05-11, 07:32 PM
1GZ

noitalics.jpg

BigMuz
07-05-11, 07:36 PM
Then ford i6 plus gas.

<---cop
07-05-11, 07:55 PM
Then ford i6 plus gas.

This.
But NOS, not LPG.

ALLMTR
07-05-11, 08:24 PM
13b if this is a 13 for 1300 competitor

<---cop
07-05-11, 11:22 PM
http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67267399

If not, you're a fag.

MRMOPARMAN
08-05-11, 02:07 AM
Ls1

Sketchy
08-05-11, 10:16 AM
13b if this is a 13 for 1300 competitor

Find me a rotor combo that will fit for the dollars and you're on.

Steve
08-05-11, 11:03 AM
If you do the engineering, and I do the throttle control...
I've got a moo engine that would do it easy, but would need it back.

MartyRX2
08-05-11, 12:24 PM
Good secondhand 12A or 13B extend port, 4 speed RX4 box, locked stock diff, remove interior/swap glass for perspex/remove anything not required to make it go.

TT
08-05-11, 08:20 PM
so is the 2jayzee30 for sale now to make way for this awesome project?

Dogsballs
08-05-11, 08:22 PM
join two 13B's together and have a quad rotor monster!

Sketchy
08-05-11, 09:50 PM
Good secondhand 12A or 13B extend port, 4 speed RX4 box, locked stock diff, remove interior/swap glass for perspex/remove anything not required to make it go.

As previously mentioned if you can find me all that gear for a price that doesnt require me to gargle some rotor guys balls then sure, in. I only want to do a couple of 13's and then heave it anyway.


so is the 2jayzee30 for sale now to make way for this awesome project?

You're a funny cunt. Reckon if you'd kept the subaru any longer you could have run this competition yourself :D

TT
09-05-11, 10:55 AM
wouldn't have run a 13 though... :lol:

hrt5l
09-05-11, 12:00 PM
http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67267399

If not, you're a fag.

This is the correct engine for the job + gas if needed.

02JZE Cressida
09-05-11, 02:41 PM
This is the correct engine for the job + gas if needed.

you'd just go rb30 wouldn't yah? how cheap are the 3rz toyo motors nowadays? surely that'd get you close!

Shifty
09-05-11, 03:09 PM
3rzs are expensive, like most commercial motors

Sketchy
09-05-11, 03:46 PM
V6's are now out of the running unfortunately as much as I would love to have a proper v6 in the bay, but an alternative plan has been hatched and as soon as the car is in my posession will be underway.

Watch this space :D

peril 787b
09-05-11, 07:42 PM
WTF is a MOO engine?

lysdexia
09-05-11, 07:46 PM
Commodore V6, sounds like a cow

Lobster
10-05-11, 09:38 PM
Pics?

ALLMTR
10-05-11, 09:43 PM
I reckon get Al to put something like a ca in it

Sketchy
12-05-11, 10:03 AM
Behold the Sunny of Doom:

Engine of doom
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/Doomengine.jpg

Headlight of doom
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/Doomheadlight.jpg

Rear quarter of doom
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/Doomrear1.jpg

Rear quarter and door of doom
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/Doomrear2.jpg

Rear quarter of doom again
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/Doomrear3.jpg

Steering wheel of doom
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/Doomwheel.jpg

And the whole reason I took the car in the first place, the Gear Shifter Of Ultimate Doom™

EDIT: Forgot to mention the Ultra Hektik ET Turbo seats of Winning Doom™
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/Doomshifter.jpg

Still trying to hustle old mate to drag it out of his shed for me so work can begin.

<---cop
12-05-11, 10:29 AM
I'll give you $100 for it now :D

You can keep the Gear Shifter Of Ultimate Doom™

tim510
12-05-11, 10:35 AM
thats awesome, I like.

If u need any bits phil let me know.

I might have a dodgy old surge tank and a few other 'conversion' things that I'd be happy to see go to a good home for SFA. I have a N13 pulsar radiator that might suit the conversion too , plus some other random shit I've collected. Useful?

Keep in mind mate, the diff's in these are made of glass. Lock it straight away and keep in mind it will break.

Shifty
12-05-11, 10:42 AM
fuck that's actually an ok car

maybe make it into a $13's for $2,000 keeper rather than a 13s for $1,300?

Sketchy
12-05-11, 10:55 AM
thats awesome, I like.

If u need any bits phil let me know.

I might have a dodgy old surge tank and a few other 'conversion' things that I'd be happy to see go to a good home for SFA. I have a N13 pulsar radiator that might suit the conversion too , plus some other random shit I've collected. Useful?

Keep in mind mate, the diff's in these are made of glass. Lock it straight away and keep in mind it will break.

Cheers bloke, I'll know more once the car is actually in my possesion and I've had a good eyeball over it and work out what goes where.


fuck that's actually an ok car

maybe make it into a $13's for $2,000 keeper rather than a 13s for $1,300?

Yeah nah, I have too many cars/projects to bother keeping an old datsun in the driveway for lols. If anything I'd buy that turbo corolla with A/C and shit for $2500 than keep this. Will be a project to learn some conversion techniques. Basically I want Al to show me how to do it and and then do it myself. I'll tidy it up after the comp, throw some nice wheels on it and flog it.

Sketchy
12-05-11, 11:23 AM
Ok, the plan for the car and costings is this so far:

Datsun Sunny - free ($50 - $100 nominal value?)

N/A CA18DE auto complete drivetrain - $500

Haltech E6K sitting under my bench at home - $150?

Ghetto steampipe manifold with TDO5H or similar found under Al's pile of subaru aids shit - $200

XR6 Turbo stock cooler - $50

Spare BMW bosch 040 EFI fuel pump residing in the e30 - $40

3" exhaust also lifted from Al's pile of subaru aids shit - carton of beer?

Tailshaft modified in Al's shed - Another carton of beer

A complete roll of mig wire to weld the diff centre unless a 720 ute diff comes up cheap - $100

Steel for mounts, brackets, odds and ends, plus random piping and silicone joiners - $150

Comes in for a grand total of $1290 bucks nominal value but an actual spend of closer to 900 bucks or less seeing as most of the bits I need I already have.

I really wanted to shoehorn a Toyota 3MZ or similar in for sooper WTF value but price and availability of RWD auto boxes to suit killed that idea straight up.

Plan now is a smallish turbo, locked diff and ghetto shift kitted/tweaked auto and try to get the car off the line as quick as possible. The car weighs around 900kg by the book so with a sub 2 sec 60ft around 250hp should easily see it run deep into the 13's at somewhere between 105-110mph. As long as the diff doesnt explode. Or the tailshaft shears and stabs me in the face. Or it rusts to bits before I get past the 60ft. I'll do a few runs with full trim and the like and then start stripping the car down to see if it makes any difference.

So there you have it, keep it simple, add some lightness see where we end up :)

P.S. Datusn gurus, whats the go with brake upgrades? Bluebird struts or similar? I actually want the car to pull up at the end of the quarter and also not kill the cunt who buys it off me after the comp is over.

tim510
12-05-11, 11:48 AM
P.S. Datusn gurus, whats the go with brake upgrades?

Stanza girlocks. Diff upgrades, u want a S12 Gazelle solid rear end. That will 'fit' in, but flog bushes. The 720 diff is a for leaf springs, these run a funky 4link kinda setup. S12 is H190 like the 720 but the mounting is close enough.

A series 3 bluebird TRX diff might fit too, you'd need to check.

Jim
12-05-11, 12:16 PM
awesome score!
Thought sunny was leaf like 120Y?
Hoonboy may still have a 720 diff?

Sketchy
12-05-11, 01:02 PM
Do diff upgrades form part of the cost or are they put in the safety catagory?

Otherwise the diff upgrade will have to be ten bucks or less :D

tim510
12-05-11, 02:11 PM
diff with factory rear disks is a safety item :D

psi999
12-05-11, 02:36 PM
I have a set of front girlock calipers (910) and discs ready to hit the dump....

Yours if you need them.

Sketchy
12-05-11, 06:40 PM
I have a set of front girlock calipers (910) and discs ready to hit the dump....

Yours if you need them.

Tim, will these fit without farking around? I'll take em anyway, should be able to bodge them on somehow.

I just realised this is going to be an epic grass hack car.
Relive some old memories :D

tim510
13-05-11, 10:18 AM
Tim, will these fit without farking around? I'll take em anyway, should be able to bodge them on somehow.


take them, I think the caliper is pretty similar.

I recently rescued my old sunny from the dead, a mate is driving it around until he decides he doesn't want it anymore.

Jim
13-05-11, 10:28 AM
VL diff and big flares? Should be piss easy to convert to leaf.
actually, forget that, look at a borg warner from a series 2/3 bluebird or 200b wagon.

tim510
13-05-11, 10:53 AM
nup. S12 gazelle essentially bolts in and is a H190 (tough, 11 sec capable).


U want a gazelle diff.

Jim
13-05-11, 11:21 AM
nice, sounds like a top idea if he can find one cheap. Sadly not a safety upgrade tho. Recon the stock diff would survive a few passes?

Shifty
13-05-11, 12:53 PM
a while ago there was one at salisbury wrecking

tim510
13-05-11, 01:21 PM
nice, sounds like a top idea if he can find one cheap. Sadly not a safety upgrade tho. Recon the stock diff would survive a few passes?

recon, ie: fill with metal plates and mig wire. yeah, with an auto that might just work..

Jim
13-05-11, 02:27 PM
It's well worth pointing out that this is by far the easiest thing to do :D

ALLMTR
26-05-11, 11:50 PM
Is this still going ahead?

<---cop
27-05-11, 10:50 AM
Am I buying this off you for $100 yet?

Sketchy
27-05-11, 10:59 AM
recon, ie: fill with metal plates and mig wire. yeah, with an auto that might just work..

Yes


It's well worth pointing out that this is by far the easiest thing to do :D

yes



Is this still going ahead?

Yes


Am I buying this off you for $100 yet?

Gitfarked :)

Had to delay getting the car picked up for a bit due to logistics and work commitments but am dropping the Free30 off to the shop next tuesday and picking up the Sunny on the way back. Already got the gearbox controller from Tim (thanks mate!) and the CA18 is ready and waiting to be thrown in.

Work will being in earnest next week, might not make the deadline (cause I cant fucking remember what the deadline was anymore) but will go together in record time with the help of a few mates. It appears I already have some corporate sponsorship from Bartercard if I want it so should be good for a laugh.

Will need some tyres and rims to suit if anyone is able to assist.

Watch this space :D

Sketchy
28-05-11, 06:43 PM
So, things got serious with this today. Went to the East Coast Customs garage sale intending to poke around and have a look. Came back with:

Stainless low mount CA18 turbo manifold

Tinkered with excellent condition RB25 turbo with all lines and stainless dump

2 Bosch 040 fuel pumps and an RB25 fuel pump

auto s13 tail shaft

CA18 enigne mounts

Little bit bent 600 x 400 x 75 cooler

All for $200 bucks :D

That price also included a full remote mount oil filter and cooler relocation kit but thats going on the e30 so probably only cost $150 in reality. Pics later because I'm off to the pub and cant be fucked.

Car gets picked up Tuesday, will probably try to organise the drive train same day and get cracking this weekend. I'm hoping for motor in, mounts done, exhaust done, cooler mounted and maybe even cooler pipes done by weekends end.

Cant fucking wait!

EDIT: Also got a line on a cheap H190 diff from an S12 Gazelle while I was picking all the stuff up. Will know more about this in a few days :)

<---cop
28-05-11, 06:51 PM
Cunt. I was there too with a fist full of fifties and couldn't find shit worth buying.

selldumpss
28-05-11, 07:22 PM
..

Tils
28-05-11, 07:27 PM
^ retarded spam is retarded

Mike Lowrrryyy
28-05-11, 11:13 PM
Елки-палки, уникальная заметка
______
delyvery same time after pay 1-5 min (http://selldumps.eu)

Fuck yeah!

Tils
28-05-11, 11:16 PM
I like a same time delyvery

ALLMTR
30-05-11, 09:08 PM
This has potential

Sketchy
30-05-11, 11:32 PM
Maybe if it delyvery same time after pay 1-5 min it will.

In other news I get this tomorrow. Fk yeah :)

ALLMTR
06-06-11, 11:24 PM
News?

Sketchy
09-06-11, 02:04 PM
Started stripping the car a little on sunday, got the original A12 running so car can move under its own power and then went out to drink and oogle young sluts with Jeev. Heading off to pick up the motor and box today, manifold is being modified tomorrow and build starts in full swing Saturday morning :)

tim510
09-06-11, 02:10 PM
Started stripping the car a little on sunday, got the original A12 running so car can move under its own power and then went out to drink and oogle young sluts with Jeev. Heading off to pick up the motor and box today, manifold is being modified tomorrow and build starts in full swing Saturday morning :)

need some help saturday? i can swear and point nearly as good as dave/aaron

Sketchy
09-06-11, 02:16 PM
need some help saturday? i can swear and point nearly as good as dave/aaron

That would be tops mate, always good to have a Datsun pro in the house. Reckon you can bring those calipers and rotors over from Jon? Brakes sound super rusty/grindy when moving the car around the yard.

tim510
09-06-11, 02:18 PM
yeah i'll see if i can grab them tonite

Sketchy
11-06-11, 12:46 AM
So this is well and truly underway today. No pics as yet cause some cunt has my good lens and I've been too greasy to handle the camera.

So far:

Inside of the car gutted and ready for sound deadening removal (does dry ice count towards the total? Otherwise I'll have to heat gun it off). Seats, carpet, door trims, consoles, part of the dash, and more to come yanked and in the bin.

Stock motor and box out and tossed aside.

CA18 motor stripped of all unwanted accessories and bolted to the auto box, just need to stick in the converter bolts tomorrow morning and then slide it into the car and see what needs adjusting with a hammer.

Fitted the stainless low mount turbo manifold up and tried to fit the bigger turbo but because the new turbo is so much bigger it fouls on the engine mount. New plan, run a J pipe off the manifold and stick the turbo up near the headlight for maximum hektikness and modify the dump to just fire out behind the left wheel.

Cooler location and mounts started.

Tomorrow:

Motor and box in and mounts tacked up. Finish cooler mounts. Possibly modify and tack tailshaft as the sunny uses a stock 1 peice shaft. Hoping to splice the CA18 shaft straight onto the datsun item and tig it up. Might knock up a tailshaft hoop just in case.....

Should have a few people around tomorrow to spanner, point and drink beer so more to report as it happens.

ALLMTR
11-06-11, 12:29 PM
Cool, is JZK involved still?

Dogsballs
11-06-11, 12:36 PM
woot woot!

Sketchy
11-06-11, 06:23 PM
Cool, is JZK involved still?

Not at this point but will be enlisting his help for wiring and stuffs in a few weeks.

Motor and box are now in ready for mounts to begin and removed a few more bits and bobs for work to begin in earnest tomorrow.

tim510
14-06-11, 10:46 AM
is this mounted/munted yet?

Sketchy
14-06-11, 04:28 PM
Gearbag is done, engine plates and rubber mounts are modded to suit the original cross member and managed to snaffle some steampipe style tube and RHS offcuts today whilst doing a quote in Geebung. Owners found it quite amusing that I jumped into the steel bin in my office gear fishing around for scrap. Went and got a bottle of argosheild, new helmet and bottle reg for the welding to start this arvo.

While mounting the gearbox I had a squizz at the shifter arrangement on the side of the box. There is actually enough room for the shifter and rod to swing in its normal fashion from 1st up to N on the side other than what looks like a small seam towards the front of the tunnel. I reckon I can knock it flat and shifter will work as per factory but I'll see if I can snaffle a ratchet shifter for ease of skids anyway.

Actual spend so far is around $650 bucks for the motor/box and sundry turbo gear. I reckon I can pull it in for not much more than a grand of actual coin, allowing for anything I havent thought of so far.

Winrar.exe :)

tim510
14-06-11, 04:50 PM
i'll find those shifter brackets tonite for you..

BigMuz
14-06-11, 08:29 PM
What is with the 'similar threads' down the bottom? Fuckinlol!

Tils
14-06-11, 08:59 PM
What is with the 'similar threads' down the bottom? Fuckinlol!

:rotflol: :rotflol: :rotflol: :rotflol:

Fuckin GOLD!!!

ALLMTR
15-06-11, 02:32 AM
Nice! Go the turbo 4!

2JZR31
15-06-11, 10:09 AM
We pulled the intake manifold off to find room to make engine mounts. So what is the go with the variable runners on these? They just have throttle plates on one inlet of each cyl that I assume stay closed, then open at high RPM. Do people normally bin this setup? Does it actually work well enough to keep? Can we ghetto the actuation of it so that it opens once the engine sees boost or something? (better than nothing?)

Sketchy
17-06-11, 10:19 AM
What is with the 'similar threads' down the bottom? Fuckinlol!

Idungeddit :w:

Guido
17-06-11, 10:34 AM
We pulled the intake manifold off to find room to make engine mounts. So what is the go with the variable runners on these? They just have throttle plates on one inlet of each cyl that I assume stay closed, then open at high RPM. Do people normally bin this setup? Does it actually work well enough to keep? Can we ghetto the actuation of it so that it opens once the engine sees boost or something? (better than nothing?)

Yep, it is usually binned.

Sketchy
17-06-11, 12:54 PM
Anyway, some pics of the progress so far.

Have some dodge iphone pics of the engine and shit being pulled out but thats nothing exciting. Can put them up if anybody really has a hard on for it.

Gearbox mounted after cutting out the existing mounts tacked into the tunnel. Thought about making something fancy. Couldnt be fucked. Did this instead.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8778.jpg

Fuck the Origin, there's go fast to be made
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8790.jpg

A12 out, CA18 sitting in place minus all unwanted accessories, loom and inlet manifold ready to get started.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8794.jpg

Cut the plates and modified some random engine mounts to go onto the stock Datsun cross member.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8783.jpg

Plate on the block, plate on the mount, zot together with some black steel tube. One passenger engine mount. Left enough off each side to tack on some triangulated bracing if needed.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8785.jpg

Looks a bit haggard but sturdy enough for a puny CA
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8784.jpg

Drivers side was a little more fiddly due to a large brace running from the bellhousing under the factory mount. Gave it the finger, clearenced it with the grinder so flat plate could be used the same as the passenger side.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8782.jpg

Was starting to get on a little bit at this stage so left the cutting and grinding for a bit and went to work with the dry ice and sound deadener. Bought 14kg, used less than 5 to do the whole car. Fucken :( One the plus side I have nearly 10kg of dry ice if anyone wants to chuck it on someones pool or toilet for lols.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8788.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8787.jpg

It was about this time myshorty rocked up and it was decided fuck the nieghbours lets sort the other engine mount
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8789.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8796.jpg

So while he did that I took the chance to snap some of the other bits I have accumulated for the build

Ebay spec low mount stainless manifold
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8793.jpg

RB25 turbo with all lines and stainless twin dump (which has turned out to be some hektik highflowed thing that I'll take some more pics of so it can be properly identified)
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8792.jpg

Decent sized cooler being painted black while Az was blowing holes in the plate, swearing a bit, welding and grinding and declearing the mount structural once painted with strong paint
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8795.jpg

Moving along pretty quickly now
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8797.jpg

So this weekend will be finishing and tiding the mounts and painting them and starting on cooler and turbo mounting/dump pipe

:)

tim510
17-06-11, 01:05 PM
Those mounts look awesome! excellent idea (way better than my thinking!)

peal
17-06-11, 01:26 PM
that is awesome.

<---cop
17-06-11, 01:31 PM
Awesome +3

How did you only use 5kg of dry ice? I used 8kg and I'm not finished :(

Sketchy
17-06-11, 02:24 PM
Those mounts look awesome! excellent idea (way better than my thinking!)

Cheers mate, I'm beginning to understand why people like fucking with Datsuns because they are just so easy to modify due there being nothing in them. There is an obscene amount of nothing in the front end of this car, honestly couldnt have picked a better car to do this too. Also, know anyone interested in some Sunny bits? I want my driveway cleaned up ASAP.


Awesome +3

How did you only use 5kg of dry ice? I used 8kg and I'm not finished :(

See the above. There was only about 4 sheets of sound deadener in the whole car. Nothing in the boot at all and none up under the dash. If you want some more dry ice come get it before it goes off.

TT
17-06-11, 07:20 PM
dump pipe looks like a HKS divorced dump for the skylines (or a replica).

Sketchy
17-06-11, 07:27 PM
Yup, no HKS branding that I can see. Isnt going to be of any use for this project unfortunately now unless we chop it and spin it around. Farken thing points straight at the bellhousing :(

peal
17-06-11, 07:45 PM
Sell it to some skyline owner, you just need a dump that points straight into a hole in your guard.

JZK25
17-06-11, 07:51 PM
If I see you welding onto rusted metal again there will be fucking trouble.

myliberty
17-06-11, 07:54 PM
flapper disk made short work of rust before welding.

This engine mount only has to last 13 seconds.
I suggested Sketchy apply multiple coats of paint. for strength.

ALLMTR
17-06-11, 08:00 PM
If I see you welding onto rusted metal again there will be fucking trouble.

It's an old Datsun, what are his options?

Al, can you fly down Wednesday to wire the Helltruck, thanks in advance

JZK25
17-06-11, 08:03 PM
Plate on the block, plate on the mount, zot together with some black steel tube. One passenger engine mount. Left enough off each side to tack on some triangulated bracing if needed.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8785.jpg

Looks a bit haggard but sturdy enough for a puny CA
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8784.jpg

D
:)


I fucking mean it, don't weld onto dirty steel cunts.

Don't even try to weld over the black mill scale or blue paint that steel comes with let alone rust.

P.S. I have your B&M shifter Philip.

Gammaboy
17-06-11, 09:18 PM
The man has a vallid point.

Sketchy
18-06-11, 12:43 AM
If I see you welding onto rusted metal again there will be fucking trouble.

It's not rusted metal, its a cut up rusted driveway plate.

Besides, its painted with structural paint now. Is Don, is good.

Turbo manifold has now been sliced, diced and the turbo J piped like a mother fucker.

I also cut about 30mm off the mount Az made, painted it and the rocker covers/inlet manifold.

Going to brace up the passenger mount tomorrow and paint that, hopefully make a start on the cooler mounting as well.

BigMuz
18-06-11, 07:26 AM
Looks good.

The gearbox crossmember bots should be high tensile something- they appear to be hardware spec which are not even close unfortunately. You need a bolt with 8.8 on the head.

<---cop
19-06-11, 09:58 PM
See the above. There was only about 4 sheets of sound deadener in the whole car. Nothing in the boot at all and none up under the dash. If you want some more dry ice come get it before it goes off.

Fucken. Should have checked the thread again sooner :(

Sketchy
21-06-11, 12:50 AM
Some more pics from Friday evening. Had planned to get lots more done over the weekend. Got drunk and chased wimmenz instead. Again.

Anyway...

Working out the best position for the turbo to sit. Wasnt going to work in the standard low mount position as first intended due to the inlet housing fouling on the engine mount. Probably could have remade the mount but was just as much work to re mount the turbo.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8798.jpg

J mount for the win. Tack it and check it...
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8799.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8800.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8804.jpg

And then finish it up. Also welded in a bracing tab between the flange and front cylinder outlet to keep it all stiff
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8806.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8805.jpg

Cooler piping will be easy as can be now

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8808.jpg

Cleaned up the mount Az started and modified it so the oil filter would fit in the standard spot. Painted it with structural paint to make sure its good.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8801.jpg

In place.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8803.jpg

As previously mentioned I painted some shit too
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8802.jpg

Dummied the painted bits in place to get a feel for how things are coming together.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8815.jpg

Looks orright so far. Tomorrow night: Brace passenger side mount, paint and reinstall, auto sparky mate is dropping by to have a look at the wiring, remove rest of the inlet manifold and bin the NICS bullshit, make a start on the dump.

Honestly dont think I'll have it done by the end of the month but will have a solid crack at it and attempt to not get sidelined with liquor and women :)

Giggle gas
21-06-11, 01:02 AM
If I see you welding onto rusted metal again there will be fucking trouble.

meh, really, I weld rusty shit for a living (boilermaker on a mine) a bit of mill scale or blue paint, no biggy, clean stuff where you can, but if not just turn the welder up....................... or use a stick welder, rust and shit doesn't scare them

ALLMTR
21-06-11, 01:08 AM
Lookin good! This might be actually worth something at the end :)

blownhemi
21-06-11, 02:02 AM
Looks really good actually. Nice work.

JZK25
21-06-11, 07:52 AM
meh, really, I weld rusty shit for a living (boilermaker on a mine) a bit of mill scale or blue paint, no biggy, clean stuff where you can, but if not just turn the welder up....................... or use a stick welder, rust and shit doesn't scare them

Lol, he's not welding shit that's thick enough to just turn it up.


Getting there Phil.

Don't forget a trans cooler.

If you can fit them Stints has some drag radials on 4x114.3 rims you can borrow.

Also, measure the distance between centres of leaf spring mounts and post up. Might be able to find a diff that bolts in.

Sketchy
21-06-11, 11:39 AM
Looks really good actually. Nice work.

Cheers mate, having the car presentable for the SM article is what it driving me to get this thing done, plus I want to be able to move it on when I'm done rather than have yet another project car cluttering the driveway. Being brown its going to cop some kind of military spec graphics/paint job and not a hokey drift camo lamespec either :D


Lol, he's not welding shit that's thick enough to just turn it up.


Getting there Phil.

Don't forget a trans cooler.

If you can fit them Stints has some drag radials on 4x114.3 rims you can borrow.

Also, measure the distance between centres of leaf spring mounts and post up. Might be able to find a diff that bolts in.

Yeah Az tried that, and blew holes in it. Forgetting he turned the gas off didnt help either :D

I'm trying to track down a stock CA auto radiator that has the transcooler built in for ease of installation but if you happen to find one under the bench let me know. Defintely keen on the drag radials, will attempt to come up over the weekend to grab the shifter, engine crane and the radials if possible.

Nissan H190 diff from S12 Gazelle/Silvia is the bolt in option for these things so might be more fruitful doing a search on one of them. I'll jack it up tonight and get those measurement when we start on welding the centre.

Anyone got an old pod filter lying around? All mine seem to have dissappeared. Also chasing some Nissan converter bolts so the thing can be properly bolted in.

Tim: any luck with the shifter bracket? I may not need it but would be handy to have for a test fit. All that A12 stuff is here waiting to be taken away too.

JZK25
21-06-11, 11:52 AM
Your K&N is at my place. Measure that diff, there might be better options.

A CA radiator is no use, the auto heat exchanger on them is not good enough for what you are doing. Some cunt will have an old trans cooler kicking around.

tim510
21-06-11, 11:53 AM
Tim: any luck with the shifter bracket? I may not need it but would be handy to have for a test fit. All that A12 stuff is here waiting to be taken away too.


the B+M linkages are downstairs mate, just let me know when u want to grab them.

Spoke to the A-series guy, he didn't sound interested sorry.

<---cop
21-06-11, 12:15 PM
This looks tits.
Makes me want to turbo my CA18 rather than bin it for an engine conversion.

Sketchy
21-06-11, 12:23 PM
Your K&N is at my place. Measure that diff, there might be better options.

A CA radiator is no use, the auto heat exchanger on them is not good enough for what you are doing. I will have an old trans cooler kicking around you can have.

Duly noted. And thanks :)



the B+M linkages are downstairs mate, just let me know when u want to grab them.

Spoke to the A-series guy, he didn't sound interested sorry.

Will do. Any datsun forums or people who may be interested in the shit? Would rather it go to someone who can use it than the dump. Engine is a good runner.


This looks tits.
Makes me want to turbo my CA18 rather than bin it for an engine conversion.

If there is no interest in the car as a whole once its done I'll look at seperating the gear as parts. Other than a couple of minor things (like the lack of piston oil squirters) the N/A CA18 isnt a bad base to start with. Slightly higher compression, more aggressive inlet cam for a start.

Also, can anyone tell me what the factory injectors are rated at and what would be an acceptable drop in solution? I have at least two sets of 380cc RB20DET injectors here that I could drop in while I have the manifold apart but NFI what flow rate or impedance the stockers are.

<---cop
21-06-11, 12:57 PM
CA18DE injectors are high impedance 270cc, CA18DET are low impedance 340cc.

Read this too:

Upgrade for CA18DE injectors
1989-91 RX-7 195500-2010 Saturated 460cc Red Top injectors

TT
21-06-11, 01:08 PM
Stetchy - I've got a K&N type POD that has an RB25 AFM adapter you can have.

tim510
21-06-11, 01:19 PM
datsun 1200 for the engine mate. list it as free. should get some poeple keen.

lysdexia
21-06-11, 02:17 PM
CA18DE injectors are high impedance 270cc, CA18DET are low impedance 340cc.

Read this too:

Upgrade for CA18DE injectors
1989-91 RX-7 195500-2010 Saturated 460cc Red Top injectors

bang on yep

RB20 ones are the same as atmo CA ones though, 270cc high imp.

JZK25
21-06-11, 07:18 PM
I have a set of WRX 440s here Phil. You can decap them to 600cc easily too.
Measure your available space for the radiator and I will see what I have. I was thinking the E30's old rad would be plenty big enough.

Sketchy
22-06-11, 12:34 AM
I have a set of WRX 440s here Phil. You can decap them to 600cc easily too.
Measure your available space for the radiator and I will see what I have. I was thinking the E30's old rad would be plenty big enough.

Mint, cheers bloke.

I had the same thought about the BMW radiator but am fairly certain it was cactus.
Fellow eurogeek mate came by tonight and helped me pull the NICS flappers out of the inlet plenum and told me an early golf radiator would be the gun setup as it has the inlet and outlet on the same side as the CA with an internal bypass.

I'll probably grab tha rad anyway on the weekend if I can get some cunt to drive up.
Oldmate eurogeek reckons magnas have a perfect size transcooler that should do the job too, and from memory so do lots of falcons.

Shifty
22-06-11, 09:52 AM
CA18s are the new hotness. Now if I can just find money/motivation to do the last few little jobs on mine...

Sketchy
22-06-11, 11:01 AM
CA18s are the new hotness. Now if I can just find money/motivation to do the last few little jobs on mine...

You'd want too. If I finish this before you finish yours I dont want any BoganDave/crack style cunt hurt from you :D
I'd be happy to lend a hand if I was able to drive over mate.

Also, does a seat count as part of the cost or as a safety item? I have a few kicking around at home and am going to put a fixed back racing bucket for extra JDM hektik and to be a little more secure. The pulsar seats that came with it are actually pretty comfy but I'd rather feel like I'm not piloting a brown metal coffin.

Got a bit more done last night. Yanked the inlet manifold off again and got stuck into pulling the lower part of the manifold off that contains the NICS butterflies to promote bottom end torque by channelling the incoming air through one smaller port and then opening up at higher rpm for top end stomp. By all accounts this really doesnt do much so out it comes.

Manifold off

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8889.jpg

You can see the butterflies in the middle of the ports here

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8890.jpg

Pop the actuator off, seperate the manifold into two peices, unscrew the blade screws (cunts of things) and slide the linkage out

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8891.jpg

My main concern now is if having the hole running through the all of the inlet tracts is going to cause any issues. My guess is probably not. The end holes will get blocked off, I popped the plastic carriers out and there is a perfect recess for a nut or even just fill with weld.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8892.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8895.jpg

You can see here how the inlet manifold steps from 4 to 8 ports for the NICS system. I think it was a good idea in theory but the idea of the inlet charge being jammed against a flat plate and subsequent reversion would be more trouble than its worth. I'm not an engineer though so only my two cents.

P.S dont look through the holes

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8897.jpg

Lobster
22-06-11, 01:03 PM
I looked

lysdexia
22-06-11, 01:10 PM
Sames.


Phil with the holes between each runner, most people that remove them on redtop RB20s (exact same design, just 2 cylinders longer) usually plug them with some devcon steel putty or whatevs. that or they remove the butterflys, but then reinstall the bar.

Lonx
22-06-11, 02:43 PM
Sames.


Phil with the holes between each runner, most people that remove them on redtop RB20s (exact same design, just 2 cylinders longer) usually plug them with some devcon steel putty or whatevs. that or they remove the butterflys, but then reinstall the bar.
Concur.... I've seen some comparison on Nissansilvia.com where they claimed some 30-40% less torque with them removed but I still believe there's a bit of BS there. Removed mine and plugged up holes, sanded over.

Sketchy
22-06-11, 02:58 PM
Concur.... I've seen some comparison on Nissansilvia.com where they claimed some 30-40% less torque with them removed but I still believe there's a bit of BS there. Removed mine and plugged up holes, sanded over.

Claimed or proven? 40% less torque means it would go from 158nm stock down to 105nm. As fucking if. Did you notice any change with the flaps removed personally?

I was originally looking to do a low boost, small turbo, high torque build but with all the gear I have assembled it appears it will be geared more towards revs and top end. We will see when it finally hits the track.

Lonx
22-06-11, 03:17 PM
They had dyno runs but they looked too extreme & more like 'my foot did this on the dyno'. I'll try to find them. I didn't drive before/after (as the before was basically fk'd rings when I got it originally), however the driving around 2000 - 3500rpm seemed as I would expect to be honest. By then it would be up on boost and I think by factory they typically are open completely by 3800rpm (on an N/A... so probs open as soon as it starts to build on the det?). I had a decent CA18DE prior to this and it only felt a little tardier in comparison - so I'm a bit 50/50 about them mattering too much. Happy to be proven one way or the other as I have another set of secondary runners sitting here with them still installed :)

I'll find the pics anyway and post them later...

A few things from nicoclub, no dyno graphs linked on there now tho -



I did a power run with the butterflies 'closed always', and one with them 'open always'. And then figured where they stopped being a benefit. The point was 4800rpm for my configuration. So I set my Autronic SMC to open them at 4800rpm instead of the factory 4000rpm.



Stock engine, but T3 super-60 turbo

I had the problem where the solenoid was never opening them and discovered it when i dyno'd my car and found the power curve was like an american OHV engine

CLOSED butteflies..
OPEN butterflies..

I lost 20lb-ft of torque pretty much from 2500 all the way to 4000rpm..

Sketchy
22-06-11, 06:18 PM
So is old mate saying he lost torque with the flaps closed constantly or open constantly? One side of mine was completely stuck when I pulled them apart and looked like it hadnt closed in years.

I cant go back now anyway, I cut the mounts off for the solenoid because the screws were fucked and giving me grief. I said fuck you and hit them with the cut off saw.

lysdexia
22-06-11, 06:50 PM
don't stress about it. better for them to be gone than to try and fuck with them.

Sketchy
22-06-11, 07:28 PM
don't stress about it. better for them to be gone than to try and fuck with them.

I wasnt. More boost or nitrous will fix any lack of torque :)

In other news my fixed back race seat was dropped off today. Going to have a crack at knocking up some mounts for it now.

Lonx
22-06-11, 09:42 PM
yeah I kinda thought for a stocker or near close to it, maybe not much difference... but bigger turbo + more boost + a bit of porting = meh... do not care much below 3.5 - 4k anyway because if I'm there then I'm just going to the shops :)

Sketchy
23-06-11, 12:32 AM
So, productive night on this thing. Now is cranking over and has power to all basic systems, bar the fueling which may take some minor head scratching to get right. Also fabbed up some mounts for an old fixed back race seat and stuck that in too. Couldnt be fucked getting pictures but will take some over the weekend when I have more time to work on it.

I'll be pushing it but I might actually have a chance of this thing running by the end of the month :D

JZK25
23-06-11, 07:43 AM
Wire that shitter up and do some skids.

tim510
23-06-11, 09:50 AM
found the linkages mate, I put them aside for you.

There are a few shifter 'levers' and the bracket that locates the shifter cable to the box.

I might have an old dud cable too, I forgot to look... the ends are fucked but it will give u some guidance as to routing the cable and the length u require.. (the bend radius isn't the best on the shifter cables, so routing takes some thought.)

cheers

Sketchy
23-06-11, 10:20 AM
Wire that shitter up and do some skids.

Thats the plan for Sunday at this stage once I've grabbed that shit from you Saturday. Will need some oil lines for the turbo as well, the ones that came with it wont fit now due to the new turbo mounting.

Had a thought last night re oil drain for the turbo. Would it be a peanut move to braze an oil drain into the dipstick tube to save taking the sump off and putting one there? The oil isnt under pressure but will be foamy and caviatated to fuck coming out of the turbo but surely the dipstick shouldnt create enough of a restriction to matter?

JZK25
23-06-11, 11:32 AM
Too small. Just drill a 15.5mm hole in the sump and tap it for 3/8bsp. That's what you do on TD42 turbo conversions.
The block doesn't have a bung screwed into it where the turbo version's drain is? Some Nissans do have this.

Sketchy
23-06-11, 02:53 PM
There is a bung in the block for both oil and water but I assumed it was an oil feed given the size of it. I'll take a couple of photos if I get a chance and point them out so you can let me know.

Lonx
24-06-11, 04:02 PM
sketchy, here's how the secondaries look on mine now... for what it's worth. I'll smooth over where I've filled the holes before assembly tho (but the photo makes them look like they stick out much more than reality).

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/271183_10150273121663162_703263161_8795945_7040258 _n.jpg

lysdexia
24-06-11, 04:17 PM
There is a bung in the block for both oil and water but I assumed it was an oil feed given the size of it. I'll take a couple of photos if I get a chance and point them out so you can let me know.

the oil feed is toward the top of the block, but directly above the sump in the centre on the bottom is often a bsp bung to suit the drain, basically in the centre of the engine, with a 1/2" square drive in it. not all the engines have this, but if its there on yours, use it

Lonx
25-06-11, 12:05 PM
There is a bung in the block for both oil and water but I assumed it was an oil feed given the size of it. I'll take a couple of photos if I get a chance and point them out so you can let me know.
I have a really good link for this I can give you monday (it's stuck at work) unless I find it sooner. Has a photo and every coolant/oil in/out marked clearly. Will look around to see if I can find now anyway.

--edit--
Found it - http://driftopia.com/blog/2007/06/27/ca18det-vacuum-boost-water-and-oil-routing-reference/

<---cop
25-06-11, 01:15 PM
Awesome link there. Thanks.

Lobster
27-06-11, 05:39 PM
Where are the pics?

Sketchy
27-06-11, 07:10 PM
Where are the pics?

Have you tried the last 4 pages?

Sketchy
29-06-11, 01:43 AM
Plenty more done tonight, more pics to come tomorrow. Just knocked off and its nearly 1am :eek:

SELfor50
29-06-11, 10:26 AM
Looking good Sketchy. Fuck your projects move quick.

If I haven't finish the Six9 by 2015, I'll move up there and it should be done inside a month. :)

Sketchy
29-06-11, 03:04 PM
Righto, so after a few unproductive weekends of being hung over as a cunt things are moving again.

As previously mentioned I knocked up a rail and got an old race seat mounted the other night. If someone wants to argue about cost fine but I consider it a safety item as the pulsar seat it came with was dodgy as fuck. Last night I mounted an OMP harness I had lying around as well.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8967.jpg

My good mates Marcus and Dan have been on hand for the whole build. Dan doing exhaust and fab work, Marcus with the techo shit. Here Marcus is working his way through the Haltech loom and splicing it in with the factory Nissan loom. Dan is just having a special moment by the looks of things.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8952.jpg

With Marcus taking up the engine bay Dan and I decided to move inside and to the rear of the car. Dan tackled the shifter and I got stuck in to the fuel side of things.

The B'n'M Hammer shifter was picked up for a 6 pack. Should give you some idea of what sort of condition it was in. Dan cut the floor to allow the cable to pass through and then took the shifter apart to regrease and lube everything to get it working again. Once it was actually doing something it got screwed to the floor and the Gearknob of Doom™ was fitted.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8970.jpg

Sick. Just have to grab the bracketry and underslung linkages from Tim510 and the thing should be operational.

While this was going on I got to work on the fuel system. The original plan was to utilise one of the many intank pumps I scored when I got the turbo and other gear but that was going to be a right prick. A much easier port of call was to fit an outlet in the bottom of the tank connected directly to an external pump, run a new line to the engine and use the existing feed as a return to the tank. So I removed the existing sender and drained the tank and am going to hunt down the appropriate fittings over the weekend to sort this out. Probably going to use a Bosch 910 or maybe even a spare 044 I think I have on the other E30 to do the job.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8955.jpg

While I was under the car I sprayed the diff bolts for ease of removal later on when it comes out to be welded. Factory diff is lol, I expect less than one pass out of it.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8960.jpg

Tailshaft is moving up rapidly on the to do list as well

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8961.jpg

This cabin brought to you by:

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8964.jpg

I got distracted with work shit so Dan smashed in the MONSTA TACO too.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8971.jpg

Looking a bit serious now. I have a giggle whenever I sit in it.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8959.jpg

Marcus took a break for some food so I started working on mounting the radiator and working on how everything was going to fit. The radiator is the stock one from the Free30. Fits so perfectly we all laughed out loud, even the bottom radiator hose slots straight onto the bottom outlet.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8972.jpg

One small issue however, when I mounted the gearbox and started making the mounts I didnt have the fan on the engine or a thermo in place. With the radiator in and the fan on it touches the fins :( Will have to find a set of slimline thermos which will no doubt take cash out of the budget unless I want to remake the mounts, move the engine back 10mm and bash the tunnel to get the box back further. Which I dont. I tried the three thermos I have here but unfortunately all the motors stick straight into the fan snout on the front of the motor.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8973.jpg

Dan knocked up a basic dump and popped it on to make a start on the rest of the exhaust over the weekend.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8974.jpg

So thats where we are at for now, still lots to do but the list is getting smaller all the time. Wiring should almost finished tonight and as soon as I have the NICS rubbish blanked off the inlet manifold can go back together and start cranking the engine to get it running.

Shifty
29-06-11, 03:26 PM
haha sweet as

i'm sure you can get an old thermo for ten or twenty bucks

even cheap oe ones are generally slimmer than those fucking stupid fans

<---cop
29-06-11, 04:02 PM
Make sure shifty links the original owner to this thread when it's finished.

Shifty
29-06-11, 04:16 PM
i think you should take the cunt for a razz in it :) or at least email him some pictures or link a youtube vid of willowbank skidz

Guido
29-06-11, 04:50 PM
I have a 10" thermo fan you can have Phil if you pick it up. Only problem is it does not have the mounting slots.

Sketchy
29-06-11, 06:07 PM
i think you should take the cunt for a razz in it :) or at least email him some pictures or link a youtube vid of willowbank skidz

Consider it done. Have you spoken to him recently and told him about the car?


I have a 10" thermo fan you can have Phil if you pick it up. Only problem is it does not have the mounting slots.

Cheers bloke, can you give me a depth measurement? Need to make sure its going to be slimmer than the shit I have otherwise I have to go fossicking...

Guido
29-06-11, 09:19 PM
Phil, it's 70mm deep.

Sketchy
05-07-11, 12:12 PM
Righto, more progress so more pics.

Finished up the passenger side engine mount the other night. Decided to brace it with a bit of flat plate to prevent any twisting from the epic amounts of torque this will have.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8980.jpg

As you can see not a massive amount of room between the radiator and the front of the motor. I am toying with fitting a fan between the cooler and radiator as there seems to be more to play with unless someone can recommend a cheapshit thermofan that is less than 60mm deep. I seem to remember Al talking up some kind of Subaru fans?

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8981.jpg

The J pipe manifold in all its glory

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_8982.jpg

Last night was a fab night so knocked up the dump and tacked it in place

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_9180.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_9179.jpg

So far the dump finishes about level with the end of the gearbox, wont go much further than that for now. Probably just a turned down side pipe for flames, noise and lols.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_9183.jpg

On to the tailshaft. While Dan was putting a few zots on the dump I measured up and cut the tailshaft. You wouldnt hear about it, the stock datsun shaft slotted perfectly inside the CA18 shaft. Dan is stepping in here so I can take some photos.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_9181.jpg

Zot with the mig and double check fitment and trueness

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_9185.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_9184.jpg

Then weld the thing up

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/IMG_9186.jpg

Going to take it somewhere to get a final balance to check our work (its a tailshaft, I dont want it to fuck up and kill me) and then reinstall.

Tonight should be finalising the exhaust and I'll get stuck into the pulling the diff to be welded unless Denis drops off his tap and die set which will mean sorting the fuel system instead.

I also bought Shifty's spare built CA18 (rods, forgies, ARP bits) to keep aside if this motor goes pop. Hoping I can really lean on that one and get the car into the 11's looking stock :)

blownhemi
05-07-11, 12:49 PM
Looking good.

Dogsballs
05-07-11, 01:28 PM
can you take a little bit out of the rad support to some space?

Sketchy
05-07-11, 01:38 PM
can you take a little bit out of the rad support to some space?

Not without turning the front end of the car to a floppy unsafe mess. The rad support is a single pressed peice which is folded towards the front of the car. If it were folded towards the firewall no dramas at all. I can probably find something slim enough to fit between either way but chopping the support out is not an option.

tim510
05-07-11, 01:42 PM
60mm is plenty for a spal fan. It might hurt your budget though.

Dogsballs
05-07-11, 01:43 PM
i don't mean chop it out totally. sometime they have some ribbing. or just cut and box it up.

anyhoo.

Sketchy
05-07-11, 02:07 PM
60mm is plenty for a spal fan. It might hurt your budget though.

Quite possibly. Going to see what I can dig up once the car is running. Do you have those shifter bits handy? My office manager lives around the corner from the shop at Windsor (with Cam) so might get him to get them off you or possibly even just drop them at his place after you knock off.

tim510
05-07-11, 02:23 PM
shifter bits are in the garage at home mate. i can drop them over tonite if you want...

Sketchy
06-07-11, 11:46 AM
shifter bits are in the garage at home mate. i can drop them over tonite if you want...

Not watching the origin then I take it? :p I havent finalised my plans for tonight yet, I may end up going past your place to watch the game somewhere. I'll keep you posted.

Sketchy
06-07-11, 04:24 PM
Just got a call back from Driveline Services, they dont want to balance the shaft :sad:

Minor set back, have a few ghetto balancing tricks up my sleeve that should hopefully do the job.

Might fab a tailshaft loop just in case though....

blownhemi
06-07-11, 04:43 PM
Just got a call back from Driveline Services, they dont want to balance the shaft :sad:

Minor set back, have a few ghetto balancing tricks up my sleeve that should hopefully do the job.

Might fab a tailshaft loop just in case though....

Because they want to make a new one for you :)

Plus they probably don't want any liability issues...

Dogsballs
06-07-11, 06:20 PM
mate just got a new once piece for ls1 into jag for $220 balanced. suppose that blows the budget.

bpm
06-07-11, 07:12 PM
im paranoid about tailshafts, ive seen too many let go, but id be making 2 loops for that thing, it will be turning at near enough to 5000rpm..... tailshafts arent included in the 1300 are they?

lysdexia
06-07-11, 07:32 PM
Tailshafts are very much included in the $1300, the car wouldn't drive without one..

Sketchy
06-07-11, 07:36 PM
Tailshafts are very much included in the $1300, the car wouldn't drive without one..

Unfortunately so otherwise I'd have just gotten them to make a proper one. the other reason I wasnt too keen on forking out for a good one yet is the stock diff still being in place. 720 ute diffs are $100 bucks according to Shifty so I'll more than likely throw one in after the comp is over, get a proper tailshaft made then, plus the built motor I have for it, rev it to 9k with the .86 GT35r I have spare and lol all the way to the end of the strip :)

bpm
06-07-11, 07:44 PM
sure it wont drive without one, but it is a safety item? fuck exploding tailshafts, makes be cringe.

JZK25
06-07-11, 09:56 PM
How did you attach/weld the tailshaft?

Sketchy
07-07-11, 02:06 AM
How did you attach/weld the tailshaft?

Hopes and dreams mostly :)

Sketchy
10-07-11, 08:52 PM
So turbo oil feed and drain is now done and dump welded up. pics to come shortly.

Can anyone help out with a Haltech E6K base map for a CA18DE/T so I can get this thing mobile? Wiring should hopefully be done this week and now have a trade plate at my disposal for tuning purposes. The ECU in question is Damo's old one (I think, this thing has been through more sets of hands than a gang rape victim) and is loaded with a 13bT map. One of the local tuners down here *may* be giving me a decent discount on dyno tuning, does tuning form part of the allowed cost?

tim510
11-07-11, 05:46 PM
the map in my 510 is for 800cc injectors, so probably is a bit fuely for what you want...

I've got some VG30DETT maps saved... should be good for the ignition side of things, and the fuel inj m/s numbers...

ye ole e6k are simple enough to crack away at. be mindful that 'batch' commands like interpolating will take ages. The software will cycle through the changes, but it just takes time..

Your wiring it batch injection, wasted spark?

Sketchy
11-07-11, 05:51 PM
HaltechScott got back to me last night and is emailing me a map shortly. Gave him some basic parameters of the build (sti 440cc injectors, etc) so will see what I end up with.

If all else fails have trade plate and two highways in close proximity to my house :D

Will be wiring batch injection and wasted spark, yes. Also still need an igniter if you have a spare one kicking around.

Have to pick your brain about those shifter bits too, getting stuck into that tomorrow night.

JZK25
11-07-11, 06:43 PM
I have ignitors bro.

Sketchy
11-07-11, 07:20 PM
I have ignitors bro.

You are too far away and dont leave your house bro.

JZK25
11-07-11, 07:38 PM
I can drive if I want to though.

myliberty
11-07-11, 07:45 PM
I can drive if I want to though.

but you don't want to.

JZK25
11-07-11, 09:40 PM
Yes but other people want to and can't.

JZK25
11-07-11, 09:40 PM
Yes but other people want to and can't.

myliberty
11-07-11, 09:55 PM
can I?

Sketchy
11-07-11, 10:00 PM
can I?

Yes. Drive me to the rangas place so I can listen to him bleat about being a superior being because he has a licence and can drive while I nod sagely and point to the intercooler pipes he is going to weld for me :)

myliberty
11-07-11, 10:09 PM
Sunday good for you ladies?

bringing the D22 out Saturday?

Sketchy
11-07-11, 10:50 PM
Cant Saturday, have an all day bucks party to go to (DH MTB at Beerwah, karting, dinner, bitches, probable death) but keen for Sunday if I havent puked my guts up or blown the company slush fund at the Cabaret saturday night. Or both.

JZK25
12-07-11, 07:55 AM
You need to watch yourself around Az, he may be gay. Straight men don't refuse compound turbocharging.

tim510
12-07-11, 10:09 AM
HaltechScott got back to me last night and is emailing me a map shortly. Gave him some basic parameters of the build (sti 440cc injectors, etc) so will see what I end up with.

If all else fails have trade plate and two highways in close proximity to my house :D

Will be wiring batch injection and wasted spark, yes. Also still need an igniter if you have a spare one kicking around.

Have to pick your brain about those shifter bits too, getting stuck into that tomorrow night.

yep just give me a ring... I'll do my best to explain what is there.

no working ignitors sorry, just cooked + broken ones.

Dogsballs
12-07-11, 11:38 PM
fuck talkin, pics or skids or GTFO!!

Sketchy
17-07-11, 10:52 PM
So progress has been a little slow so far this week but got a couple of things sorted out today and will have some pics tomorrow night.

Picked up a bosch external fuel pump from my old E30, scrounged some subaru igniter modules to wire up on the Haltech, and Al welded some alloy elbows onto the cooler so we can finish plumbing it up.

My usual wiring guy Marcus has been hella busy over the last few weeks so there is a possible plan to truck the Sunny up to Al's and spend a full weekend working on it up there with a few guys to finish all the fiddly bits off.

Tomorrow should see most of the engine back together, and the fuel system finished other than wiring.

Lobster
16-08-11, 04:07 PM
So progress has been a little slow so far this week but got a couple of things sorted out today and will have some pics tomorrow night.

Picked up a bosch external fuel pump from my old E30, scrounged some subaru igniter modules to wire up on the Haltech, and Al welded some alloy elbows onto the cooler so we can finish plumbing it up.

My usual wiring guy Marcus has been hella busy over the last few weeks so there is a possible plan to truck the Sunny up to Al's and spend a full weekend working on it up there with a few guys to finish all the fiddly bits off.

Tomorrow should see most of the engine back together, and the fuel system finished other than wiring.


Is it tomorrow night yet?

Pics now1!

Sketchy
19-08-11, 01:41 PM
There has been a bit of progress with this of late, just been slack with the photos. I'll snap some later today and pop them up.

If anyone can give us an idea about pulling axles out of a Sunny diff, it would be appreciated. Have undone the backing plates, handbrake, etc and even after a solid yank (almost enough to pull the car off the stands) the pricks wont come out. Something I may be missing?

tim510
19-08-11, 01:52 PM
There has been a bit of progress with this of late, just been slack with the photos. I'll snap some later today and pop them up.

If anyone can give us an idea about pulling axles out of a Sunny diff, it would be appreciated. Have undone the backing plates, handbrake, etc and even after a solid yank (almost enough to pull the car off the stands) the pricks wont come out. Something I may be missing?

slide hammer.

some guys get away with just putting the drum on backwards with the wheel nuts loose, and then banging the drum against the nuts to knock the axles out.

Sketchy
19-08-11, 01:55 PM
slide hammer.

some guys get away with just putting the drum on backwards with the wheel nuts loose, and then banging the drum against the nuts to knock the axles out.

That's exactly what we did do. Got enough force on it to just about pull the car off the stands and still no luck. I'm going to make a slide hammer up this weekend and try again but figured I'd ask in case I've missed something specific to old datsuns.

Guido
19-08-11, 02:58 PM
Bolt the wheel on backwards for some more leverage?

townie :)
26-08-11, 11:11 PM
I may have 2 10 inch davies craig peices of crap for you if you like. I wsa going to use them on my datto but they are a bit crusty and i wanted to get something better, I seem to have more space then you infront of the motor.

Sketchy
27-10-11, 12:40 AM
So I realised tonight that I had not been forthcoming with the previously mentioned pics and progress.

Have done absolutely zero with the car for a while due to work commitments and travelling overseas but itching to get back in the car now that I'm back so I can move onto other projects.

I was struggling last time with getting the axles out to remove the diff. Had a scrounge around and utilsed some dumb bells from the gym to do the job of a slide hammer.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9708.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9707.jpg

Worked a treat. You can see the arrangement here.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9709.jpg

Passenger side too.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9710.jpg

Next thing was to cut some strips of flat bar and weld it across the spider gears in the diff, and then weld everything to everything else.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9715.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9732.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9735.jpg

Shit is hot

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9734.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9736.jpg

Chip off the slag afterwards, this thing is a precision instrument.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9713.jpg

Noticed a small bit of slag on the crown wheel, Cracka took to it with the dremel. Made near as fuck to no difference, just spun it till it ground away.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9746.jpg

Installed diff and axels back in the car and filled with oil. Still pretty crook from a virus I picked up on my way home from Indonesia so once I'm back on my feet, I'll hoik the tailshaft back in, finally connect up the shifter to the box and dig up some converter bolts. Managed to snag some heavy duty battery cables from myshortyboomba's wrecked Porsche to relocate the battery to the boot, which means I can now finish the plumbing at the front end of the engine bay.

More stuff as it happens.

Sketchy
27-10-11, 12:40 AM
Instead of the double post you were expecting, here is a picture of my left ear.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9719.jpg

blownhemi
27-10-11, 09:08 AM
People laugh at me for using a proper slide hammer, but I tell you they are worth it when you get a stubborn axle.

Justin Bieber
03-11-11, 12:50 AM
I'm not sure i've ever seen a proper slide hammer! Just various ghetto rigs that have been conjured up in the moment of need.

Looks good Phil!!

JZK25
03-11-11, 07:06 AM
Stellar work on the slide hammer.

Sketchy
03-11-11, 11:19 AM
Cheers bloke. I will be hitting you up for some wiring advice shortly, tired of waiting on other cunts who never turn up. Time to learn to do it myself.

Got any suggestions for those injectors too? As you mentioned the sti 440's are shorter than the stockers so either the fuel rail mounts need to be modified or some sort of collet machined up to house the injectors.

Sketchy
17-11-11, 11:59 PM
More shit is happening on this.

Got the tailshaft in tonight, tidied up the fuel line and started running the cables to relocate the battery to the boot.

Shifter cable has royally shat itself so looks like I may have to take a chunk out of the remaining budget and get one that works or try to mod the factory selector rod somehow.

Got the Haltech almost finished, igniters wired and mounted, injectors in and the car cranking nicely. Got to load up the base map as I believe the original map is from one of Coffin's earlier 13b turbo set ups.

One problem we are having currently, the ignitors are obviously giving spark as the plus will zap once when the ignition is turned on but refuses to keep sparking when the car is cranking over. Most of the sensors are connected bar the map sensor for the haltech, any gurus able to shed some light on this issue? Will running the correct base map solve this?

JZK25
18-11-11, 10:15 AM
No trigger input no spark. Don't worry about that til the ecu is configured.

Sketchy
24-03-12, 10:26 PM
Thread from the dead.

Got the shits and enlisted Glenno's help with this nugget today. Is now a runner and sounds very healthy/cranky. Started fabbing cooler pipes but was having some issues with my helmet after not being used for 6 months so first weld looked like I gave it to steven hawking for a laugh so gave up shortly after.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9ixWZ0U5AI&feature=youtu.be

Will finish cooler piping tomorrow and possibly the exhuast if I'm motivated enough. Dumping at the gearbox is lol worthy but ultimately will see me in jail while tuning the thing. Still chasing a 3bar GM map sensor if anyone has a spare. If anyone has a TIG and can do alloy I'm happy to provide some beers to assist with finishing the radiator piping as well.

Massive props to Glenno by the way. If anyone needs a car sorted the guy has a wealth of knowledge and works like a ninja. He did a heap of background work getting the Haltech to stop speaking gibberish via a DOS emulator and got the base map loaded up. Plugged it all in today and started on the second or third crank.

DrivenFX all the way :)

fat910
25-03-12, 02:11 PM
That camera work was tripping me out!

Glenno
25-03-12, 03:02 PM
Thanks Sketchy

The thing definatley sounds healthy started to fire as soon as the injectors bled the air out.

Sketchy
25-03-12, 03:16 PM
Tip for young players. If youtube offers to "fix" your apparently shaky video, dont fucking do it. That looks fucked.

JZK25
25-03-12, 04:16 PM
Nice, gotta love it when an ancient ecu actually works properly first go.

Has it got the decapped wrx injectors in it? 700 odd cc's worth?

Sketchy
25-03-12, 08:14 PM
Nah, still rocking the stockers for now. Main aim is to get the thing up and running and then will fark about with go faster stuff later on.

BMWTurbo
22-03-14, 08:59 PM
As this is currently living under a trap and doesn't appear to require too much more, working bee at Sketchy's?

List of items to be completed :-

Needs shifter cable (B&M type)
Needs bend from turbo outlet to cooler in piping (2inch 90deg bend/clamps)
Needs radiator outlet on engine to meet radiator inlet (35/38mm TBC, OD bend possibly)
Tailshaft potentially to be revisited
Needs exhaust from under car back out (2/3inch NFI re size)
General tidy up wiring etc
Probably more that I haven't captured.

50RTD
23-03-14, 07:11 PM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll114/sketchypip/13s%20for%201300%20Datsun/IMG_9719.jpg



Quoted for ear.








Keen on working bee to finish this.


Will bring zip ties...

Sketchy
23-03-14, 07:18 PM
Super keen to finish it. Was going to work on it today actually but ended up quite hungover from the bbq unsurprisingly. I have some plasterboard to finish putting up to move it back in the garage but nothing stopping us doing it on the driveway.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Sketchy
23-03-14, 08:00 PM
As this is currently living under a trap and doesn't appear to require too much more, working bee at Sketchy's?

List of items to be completed :-

Needs shifter cable (B&M type)

Yes

Needs bend from turbo outlet to cooler in piping (2inch 90deg bend/clamps)

No. Looking at the video of the first start a few pages back shows I have that bit.

Needs radiator outlet on engine to meet radiator inlet (35/38mm TBC, OD bend possibly)

Yes, but I also remember I was going to make this out of copper pipe for something different so easy job.

Tailshaft potentially to be revisited

Yeah it's pretty fucken rugged.

Needs exhaust from under car back out (2/3inch NFI re size)

Yes. Need 1.5m 3" tube. Have cannon muffler in shed.

General tidy up wiring etc
Probably more that I haven't captured.

Original post quoted with questions answered.

Updated list from memory:
3 bar map sensor
Tuning (old laptop running Dos or old enough for Haltech connector)
Wire up gearbox and MV box controller (maybe see if parts can be mixed and matched for higher stall?)
Tranny cooler and lines
Better brakes
Wire up gauges/warning lights
Wire up thermo fans
Maybe get tricky with meth spray on cooler
Skids.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Sketchy
03-07-14, 05:38 PM
Anybody interested in taking this off my hands? I'm keen to get it done but am more interested in the E30 and getting stuck into my range rover tourer project so it needs to go.

Done a little more work to it of late and have also organised a set of staggered wheels for it (16" rear, 15" front) that are off being powdercoated in gloss black.

Would seriously consider swapping it for some concreting work to get my new shed slab done or a small tinny for fapping about on Sunday arvos in the local creek.