View Full Version : 13/04/1300 Mazda 626 Turbo

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07-06-12, 04:30 PM
Yep. Nah.

Haven't read the rules yet. Have now.

Didn't plan on winning the auction for this. Went $85 over my limit, so yes I did.

Wouldn't have a clue how to modify it. Getting there.

Have $814.99 to spend on it. Have $18.5 to spend on it.

Have more responsible things I should be doing with my money. nothing better to do with my money

Have more responsible things I should be doing with my time. nothing better to do with my time

Won't get anything back for it.

Better run a fucking 13.999sec quarter by the time it's done.

Fuck you PF and your stuipd challenges! awesome challenges!


Apparently: starts & runs, 1 owner since new, 264k kms & recently de-registered.
Hopefully I get to pick it up this weekend. Hopefully it is in bad enough condition that I don't feel guilty ripping it to bits.


88 mazda 626 turbo.....................................ebay.... ..............................485
rx7 s5 turbo + fittings + dump pipe flange......ebay.................................. 100
intercooler & piping......................................pf.... ...................................0
2nd intercooler & piping...............................ebay......... ..........................10.50
Haltech E6K w/ loom....................................boost cruising......................220
evo 6.5 fuel injectors & pump.......................gumtree................ ..............100
3 bar map sensor........................................ebay ...................................26
3" exhaust........................................... ......my mate..............................40
clutch upgrade........................................... .NPC clutch...........................170
14" thermofan......................................... ...my mate..............................30
fuel tank plate............................................m y shed..............................10
intercooler plate..........................................my shed..............................5
tube for intercooler piping............................exhaust shop........................40
silicon bends for intercooler piping................ebay........................ ............20
manual boost controller...............................my mate..............................7
fuse panel............................................. .....ebay....................................8
sheet for wheel well delete...........................my shed..............................10
used pod filter............................................ my shed...............................10
total............................................. .................................................. ....1281.5

remaining......................................... .................................................. .18.5

07-06-12, 05:14 PM
Awesome! Even the wheels look like turbos

07-06-12, 05:46 PM
Looks nice enough, rip the shit out of it.

I'm DJ!
07-06-12, 09:30 PM

07-06-12, 11:11 PM
Preliminary plan:

car---------------------------------------------------------------------- 485
larger intercooler---------------------------------------------------- 50
upgraded intercooler plumbing, silicon & hose clamps------- 50
3" dump pipe w/ bypass to atmosphere------------------------ 50
larger turbo----------------------------------------------------------- 100
misc. turbo fittings--------------------------------------------------- 50
fuel controller--------------------------------------------------------- 70
injectors or adjustable FPR---------------------------------------- 80
larger fuel pump----------------------------------------------------- 80
clutch------------------------------------------------------------------- 200
total-------------------------------------------------------- 1215

If I'm smart I'll do the mods in stages and combined with hopefully 100kg weight reduction maybe not all mods will be required (highly doubt it).

08-06-12, 09:55 AM
i have an assuming larger than standard intercooler you can take with all associated piping (not that it will be any use but i dont want the shit) for free...

its factory jzz30 soarer gear to give you a reference size... side mount gayness but might suit in some way shape or form to turn into a top mount... who knows... you have a welder and cutting diskst to make it into what you want and its free...

08-06-12, 09:59 AM
sweet, should be a good one. take every single thing out of it. keep the driver's seat only. should drop a fair bit of weight.

08-06-12, 11:09 AM
i have an assuming larger than standard intercooler you can take with all associated piping (not that it will be any use but i dont want the shit) for free...

its factory jzz30 soarer gear to give you a reference size... side mount gayness but might suit in some way shape or form to turn into a top mount... who knows... you have a welder and cutting diskst to make it into what you want and its free...

yeah man! i'll take it. pls pm me some pick up details and your favourite beer/spirit and i'll give you a 6 pack for it if that isn't too stingy.

i'm assuming it has aluminium (not plastic) end tanks?

08-06-12, 11:39 AM
no need for anything for it... free is free...
will send you address for pickup though...

i think it has alloy end tanks but tbh i havent looked at it for years and its been in a box in my shed doing nothing... looked to be reasonable condition though lol

09-06-12, 11:44 PM

series 5 rx7 turbo purchased the other night


jzz30 factory side mount intercooler from ga70tt (thanks). might look at welding two of these in parallel if i can find another.

10-06-12, 12:41 AM
turbo looks twinscroll/entry, how are you going to make that work?

10-06-12, 10:18 AM
i might try and create a 'knife edge' on the transition piece i'll fab up between factory manifold and rx7 turbo

14-06-12, 11:33 PM
finally she's in my shed!

this too!

some features:
the sunroof that never seals

adjustable suspension

mother flipping ants

got to get a road worthy before i can get too crazy, but i will try and do as much weight reduction that i think i can get away with before then

steel upper radiator support brackets swapped out with aluminium ones (weight saving 0.2g)

cruise control unit removed

unwanted crap removed from accelerator pedal

'the pile'. once it starts getting large i'll start weighing it. i'm hoping for 100kg to be removed witout a copper knowing what's going on if he/she has a sticky beak

took her for a lap around my back yard and it's no rocket ship but it goes alright. i think it weighs about 1300kg and has about 100 flywheel kws - not really much power to weight by todays standards, even for a naturally aspirated car.

15-06-12, 04:43 AM
Turbo is too big. I had one on my mx6, made 2 psi in first

15-06-12, 06:46 AM
isn't first gear very much traction limited anyway? (i guess not at the strip with proper tyres.) what about 2nd gear onwards, pull much harder?

edit: forgot about the mx6 thread

Just stop the flapper from opening 100% that's what boost cut is, just the trap door in there opens too much. Stop it and then add more fuel with jerry rigging. I had a s4 turbo on mine first, bad combo, but for drags might be ok, it would only manage 2 psi in first then 6 in 2nd then boost cut at 8 in 3rd

15-06-12, 07:02 AM
Just blank off one of the scrolls to halve the ar on the exhaust housing. should get it spooling faster

15-06-12, 08:53 AM
Good start, pity you can't easily weigh the ants. That sunroof might be a blessing is disguise. Replace with fixed polyarbonate?

15-06-12, 08:58 AM
i want to do something a bit more elegant than a flat sheet of aluminium and 50 rivets. poly will still need to be lapped over the existing roof and riveted down? would be good to come up with something that can be held down from the underside to keep the roof line flush.

15-06-12, 09:19 AM
Maybe use the same thickness poly as the existing glass so you can reuse the rubbers. Then delete the mechanism and seal with silicon.

15-06-12, 12:44 PM
that sounds like a good idea.

15-06-12, 01:05 PM
yeah i think i got about 7 psi in 3rd, is this auto? too lazy to go up and check. might be better, other wise NAWS

17-06-12, 11:49 PM
i'd be v.dissapoint with only 7psi in 3rd. the car is manual btw.

18-06-12, 12:12 AM
moar (weight reduction) progress

rear seat retaining brackets trimmed

1 of XXX ants nests found and destroyed

some dodgyness - indicator glued to headlight. i'll have to track another indicator down.

speed holes added to headlight mounting brackets

fuel filler pipe with air-fuel separator chamber thingy attached
fuel filler pipe with air-fuel separator chamber thingy deleted

trimmed & holesawed front bumper mounts
trimmed rear bumper mounts (speed holes from factory)
trimmings from front & rear bumper mounts

'the pile' has grown. i haven't weighed it yet but i suspect it is close to 50kg. won't do much more weight reduction until after a road worthy in a week's time. better move the pile out of site before the road worthy, else i've got some 'splaining to do lol.

to be honest i'm really happy with the condition of the car for the age and price. doesn't look like it has ever been in a prang. there is a little rust in the boot floor due to previous owner being too lazy to unblock the boot drain pipes. has new exhaust, struts have been replaced before (haven't tested them with the car lowered yet), plenty of tyre left, plenty of brake pad left, engine pretty dirty but no major leaks, steering and cv boots intact, etc.

problems are the front driver-side indicator, front driver-side power window, sunroof machanism and boot rust. another issue to sort out before the road worthy will be a belt tensioner for the power steering belt now that the a/c compressor has been removed. i can see that job being a pain in the arse with the engine still in the car.

19-06-12, 08:29 AM
Could you use the existing a/c pulley and mounting points for max cheapness?

19-06-12, 10:21 AM
Yeah, will do that for the road worthy and up until the engine has to come out for the first time (for whatever reason, most likely the clutch). Once out it should be easy to fab up. The a/c comp, its bulky cast iron mounting bracket and its adjustment mechanism all add up to a bit of weight.

Really confused as to whether to keep this road legalish or stripped 'beyond reasonable repair'. I'm talking about weight reduction (like gutting doors) that would present a serious occupant safety hazard if i was to sell the car to someone else and they were to be involved in a crash. There is an option of selling the car excessively stripped with 'car not for road use' blah blah blah written on the receipt. It would be good to see some young ricer benefit from what will end up being +100 plus hrs labour and hopefully a pretty quick car, rather than just scrapping it once the challenge is finished. meh /csh

Picked up standalone engine managment and the majority of a very well used S14 3" cat back exhaust last night for cheap. These items will be stored for a later date incase the vane air flow meter starts giving me the shits.

19-06-12, 07:39 PM
Looking good bud

20-06-12, 12:35 AM
I hope my exhaust will help you out. I look forward to seeing this finished, after reading your other build threads I somehow don't see this stopping even after you got it down to a 13 :) subscribed for awesomeness

04-07-12, 11:45 PM
spent a cool 26hrs straight the weekend before last getting this thing into road worthy condition. tonnes of stuff needed doing. a sample of some stuff is below.

all struts got bumpstops consisting of old commodore control arm bushes with steel sleeve pressed out and rubber cut in half

lots and lots of time wasted trying to get all power steering windows and switches working. in the end it was a success. the pic below is me trying to swap rear passenger motor for front driver motor (anticipating road worthy inspector is most likely to actuate front driver window). motors ended up being different so swap was not possible. ended up soldering new bushes onto the driver motor to get it working again.

broken part of front driver seat raise/lower mechanism. 40min diassemble, 30sec weld, 20min reassemble. fuck.

12mths of leaving car outdoors with sunroof partially open (which drained into the RHS boot well) = rusted RHS boot well

the only real cost of getting the car to road worthy condition - a $20 passenger outer CV boot. well over 1000Nm required to loosen the hub nut!!!

ok, so fast forward a week. i got the car roadworthied - first go with a legit inspector. got my paperwork together and drove the car to QLD transport for rego. the car broke down on the way! checked fuel, spark, EFI circuit power, throttle body, etc. couldn't figure it out. called RACQ and after a hell of a lot of to-and-fro they agreed to provide roadside assistance for my unregistered car. problem ended up being a sticking secondary throttle butterfly (haven't figured out what it is for yet).

ok, so with car not registered i'm afraid to do too much to it incase QLD transport want to inspect it as part of the registration process. nevertheless i have done some stuff.

new plastic wheel well cover panels. a lot smaller than the ones they replaced. not for weight saving but to make the car easier to disassemble/reassemble.

hatch gutted (3rd pic is all the stuff i managed to remove). unfortunately nowhere near the weight saving i had hoped. those circles were cut out with a fucken angle grinder cause i'm too pov to buy a big high speed steel holesaw

turbo manifold flange made out of towball steel

rear seat belts now mounted to rear seats via 1 x 6mm bolt instead of mounted to the floor via 2 x 12mm bolts (lol). did it this way for far easier removal/reinstallation at the drag strip.

pic of the car with the new hatch prop. i like it!

04-07-12, 11:59 PM
Electronic adjustable suspension will weigh a ton compared to stock normal stuff

05-07-12, 12:02 AM
pervious owner had it all removed TJ. all struts are regular ones.

05-07-12, 10:26 AM
Towbar steel! Haha

08-07-12, 05:40 PM
Spent a good part of Saturday trying to find a manual window regulator from Brisbane wreckers (to replace the electric window regulator). Long story short, couldn't find one. I made the decision to gut the front doors and leave two positions - fully up and 3/4 down. Street driving will be with windows 3/4 down in case I get pulled over by the cops. At the strip I'll adjust the windows to fully up.

Progress has been slow but stuff has been happening:

Rear doors gutted. Will retain factory door cards.

Bonnet gutted. It now resembles a giant taco.

08-07-12, 06:05 PM
Now you're talking! Get that shit outta there! :D

08-07-12, 07:02 PM
looking good mate, if you want a hand just give me a text

08-07-12, 07:10 PM
It's pretty fun this good old weight reduction. I think I'll struggle to get it down to Red Steak racing weight though. Then there's the open diff, and the FWD, and the standard tyres, and the turbo lag, and the manual tranny, and the lack of cc's. Damn, geed myself out a bit. 13s will be a big ask.

08-07-12, 07:33 PM
13's is totally doable.

I managed a 14.8@97mph in one these, full weight, open diff, shitty tyres. All it had was a pod, 15psi, generic chip and 3" exhaust. Stock turbo and I/C.

08-07-12, 10:38 PM
97mph is a 13 with traction

Did you weigh the doors before and after?

09-07-12, 06:54 PM
Sorry I didn't weight them. I just weighed the front doors before weight reduction though, and once done I'll give you a before and after.

Tim you got to be happy with that time for a few simple mods. Sounds like your TX5 kept many a 6cyl Falcodore honest in its day.

09-07-12, 07:14 PM
Just wait until you drive it in the wet.

Funniest experience. 4th gear, 80km/h = lane changing wheelspin / torque steer.

09-07-12, 07:27 PM

the impending exterior lighting and engine loom only rewire (i.e. no more wipers) + the requirement for front window down incase i get pulled over means no wet weather driving... which sounds like a good thing.

13-07-12, 06:58 PM
last night's handy work. ready for sound deadener removal tomorrow. i'm keen to try out the dry ice method.


13-07-12, 08:32 PM
lol going to extremes on this one... i want to see the towbar exhaust manifold

13-07-12, 09:05 PM

14-07-12, 09:14 PM
Holy shit man, youre taking this pretty seriously! Love it. I had a non turbo "Eclipse" model (with swinging air con vents!) when I was 17, my best memories were in that car.

Cant wait to see what this runs. :yup:

14-07-12, 09:14 PM
My first double post farken.

Side show
14-07-12, 09:33 PM
Noodle head:)

15-07-12, 09:23 PM
lol going to extremes on this one... i want to see the towbar exhaust manifold

not really brah. red steak and the vn turbo from last year copped similar treatment.



Holy shit man, youre taking this pretty seriously! Love it. I had a non turbo "Eclipse" model (with swinging air con vents!) when I was 17, my best memories were in that car.

Cant wait to see what this runs. :yup:

haha, i'm similar in every respect. well, except for when i arse fucked it.


Noodle head:)

i miss you too.

15-07-12, 09:38 PM
all sound deadener removed. cuntofajob. dry ice made it easy but i didn't purchase enough so had to do the front half of the car the old fashioned heat gun and scraper method.

in terms for bang for buck, sound deadener removal has to be towards the back of the list. half a day to remove only 5.5kg to put things into perspective.



not my first choice of things to be stripped naked and laying on my couch. my second choice though!


the FUCK is this shit?! like a 45mm and a 40mm throttle where there should be at least a single 65mm one. will need to think long and hard about what to do with it.


some googling:



15-07-12, 09:50 PM
I have a Subaru Legacy tt one you can have, it's probably 60mm diameter and very low profile.

Mister Black
15-07-12, 10:07 PM
Bad luck with the sound deadening, I pulled almost 20kg of it out of my car.

15-07-12, 10:25 PM
I have a Subaru Legacy tt one you can have, it's probably 60mm diameter and very low profile.

thanks for the offer dude. i got an old Ecotec one lying around that i'll put to use if any modification goes ahead

Bad luck with the sound deadening, I pulled almost 20kg of it out of my car.

i guess that depends on what you count as sound deadener. i'm only counting the tar like substance; there would be approx. 5kg of matting type sound deadener that i removed too (stuck to the underside of the carpet). what car you talking about for interest's sake?

Mister Black
16-07-12, 12:42 PM
i guess that depends on what you count as sound deadener. i'm only counting the tar like substance; there would be approx. 5kg of matting type sound deadener that i removed too (stuck to the underside of the carpet). what car you talking about for interest's sake?

This car, 2 seater Z32:


My sound deadener looked pretty much identical to what you've got in your box except I filled up a whole vacuum cleaner box with it.

When you said you were going to get dry ice I almost posted a message saying to get lots of it as I ran out towards the end too, sorry I didn't.

19-07-12, 05:46 PM
Awesome. have been watching this. Have an aunty who loves the 80's mazderattis and to their credit, they had 4 that just didn't die.

This looked almost dailyable until pulled apart. So fuck yeh, keep it up!

21-07-12, 02:36 AM
Awesome. have been watching this. Have an aunty who loves the 80's mazderattis and to their credit, they had 4 that just didn't die.

This looked almost dailyable until pulled apart. So fuck yeh, keep it up!

they didn't die but they had 4 of them? does not compute.

lol, i did daily drive this thing... for one day. got it rego'd on a Thurs afternoon, drove it to work and back in Fri peak hour hell & started dismantling it Fri night. it was pretty enjoyable compared to what i usually daily.

21-07-12, 02:46 AM
prob a bit too much effort for this challenge but i have spent nights so far this week making some new wiring diagrams for the car. i am only using a small percentage of the circuits in the car and the factory wiring of the circuits i am using is all over the place, so i have simplified it. 1 diagram for power distribution and engine harness, 1 diagram for instrument cluster and 1 diagram for external lighting will cover every wire in the car. i'll make a start on it this weekend and hope for just under two week turn around. car now has only 3 relays, 5 fusible links and 8 fuses. factory relay & fusible link holder will be reused & factory wiring and plugs will be recycled. i didn't want to reuse the massively bulky factory fuse holder so i have come up with a very much 13-4-1300 spec fuse holder idea.


21-07-12, 08:53 AM
lol thats taking this to a whole new level... rewiring to remove weight lol

21-07-12, 09:11 AM
Hardcore. :)

21-07-12, 11:00 AM
some better tyres would probably make all that back!

21-07-12, 01:21 PM
they didn't die but they had 4 of them? does not compute.

lol, i did daily drive this thing... for one day. got it rego'd on a Thurs afternoon, drove it to work and back in Fri peak hour hell & started dismantling it Fri night. it was pretty enjoyable compared to what i usually daily.

It was 3 now I think about it. One got wrecked, one was pretty decayed in the interior (sun all day) so got turned into a thrasher for us and they bought one last second hand to because they loved the unkillability of it. Still have it I think.

I think I'd rather daily most others in your list though...

23-07-12, 07:48 AM
ok, most of the hardware is now purchased. i'll stick costs up in the first post and keep it updated. most of the remaining budget may need to be spent on a new clutch, but i'll wait for the current one to start slipping before i think about it.

it's funny, i bought the turbo mazda to utilise its turbo hardware but so far i've planned to change engine management, engine load sensor (MAF to MAP), fuel injectors, fuel pump, turbo, intercooler and exhaust system (i.e. i haven't utilised any of the original turbo bits). all i really got out of it was a strong gear box and a boost friendly 7.8:1 compression ratio.

23-07-12, 09:13 AM
And turbo decal on the hatch

23-07-12, 10:05 PM
Which will probably be stripped off for weight saving?

29-07-12, 07:32 PM
It will be stripped off, but for sleeper reasons only.

06-08-12, 10:01 PM
hasn't been too much progress of late. actually, depending how you look at it i may have gone backwards. car has got no interior, wiring or driveline in it; just a shell on wheels. new wiring hasn't started yet and no driveline mods have either. wanted to push the limits of the factory turbo but have ran out of time if this challenge finishes end of next month. actually have prob ran out of time regardless but will still aim to finish the project as soon as possible. attached are some pics of the driveline removal. definitely not as quick or easy as removing a rwd driveline.

also attached is a pic of the engine with hotside removed and a pic looking into the collector of the factory turbo manifold. need to figure out how to adapt the rx7 turbo to it.


07-08-12, 12:43 PM
Hey, crack. You still have your 1j commodore? Bring it this Friday night hinterland run. All the cool kids will be there.

07-08-12, 12:58 PM
1jz ute is rotting in the long grass out back of my rental :(

keen to go though, so will bring my other ute

07-08-12, 01:02 PM
Damn what happened to it?

07-08-12, 01:14 PM
wanted to do an engine conversion and that ute body and a 1jz r154 front cut happened to be the two things i had easy access to at the time. i actually have no interst in driving a 1jz commodore ute but don't want to make a 'big' loss selling it second hand, so it is sitting in my backyard depreciating for a while. first world problems!

07-08-12, 01:22 PM
Ah I see. Looked like a very tidy install though. See ya Friday.

15-08-12, 09:29 PM
big thanks to the boys at NPC clutch who gave me a good price on a clutch upgrade for this project:
original pressure plate clamp pressure increased 40%
original driven plate converted from organic to brass button

it would be silly not to do it while the engine is out and i had always allowed budget for it


still so much to do :( can't even see the light at the end of the tunnel yet

20-08-12, 06:15 PM
hey man if you need a hand send me a pm I will head down and give you a hand

21-08-12, 06:58 AM
thanks for the offer. only really work on my cars myself so i've got no one else to blame when things go pear shaped.

half of the weekend spent trying to sort out a ruptured hot water system with a tight arse (fair enough) Asian landlord who barely speaks english and a plumber who isolated most of the house and garage elec to perform his lengthy repair (once again, fair enough... getting electricuted aint worth it).

went out to Ipswich to pick up a second Soarer intercooler and piping for $10.50. now i got to figure out a way to join them together.

21-08-12, 04:39 PM
roof & gutter and duct tape...

21-08-12, 05:13 PM
good for 0.1psi pressure rating, which won't be a problem as this laggy ass turbo won't make boost till the finish line anyway

03-09-12, 09:43 PM
alright, finally got some exhaust bits. $40 worth of old 3" exhaust. items of interest were the 3" flex joint and the rear muffler; the bends and straight that i was able to salvage out of a mountain of mig weld were a bonus. looks like i'll have enough to get to the rear of the car.

also, doesn't look like i'll be able to fit the new turbo between the engine and the factory fan so i got a second hand 14" thermofan for $30

first post updated...


14-09-12, 11:01 PM

just tested factory BOV to 40psi with no leaks! will put it back into service instead of using an old 1jz BOV i had laying around.

in other news used $20 worth of plate - $5 on intercooler and $15 on fuel tank
also, tore a long section of 2.25" tubing off my rental's work bench but decided to go with 2.5" tube for intercooler plumbing. that cost $30 plus 2 x $10 silicon bends to go with the 2 x rubber bends that i got for free with the intercooler.

will finally have time next week to start the car rewire.

16-09-12, 06:33 PM

13 4 1300 spec injector flow and spray pattern check. what i'm looking for is consistant size and shape of wet patch on the roof of the shed.

old mate kevo from across the fence decided to drop by during the test and thinking i was tweaking my garden sprinkler he didn't worry about putting his ciggie out upon entering the shed. lives were nearly lost.

I'm DJ!
16-09-12, 07:06 PM
Keep it coming. Looking good.

That flowbench has to be among the top 10 of tools used for 13s for 1300!

17-09-12, 06:48 PM

ready for car rewire. stuff in photo mounted onto a 'now open' sign that i found in a small business' trash

from left: fusible link block, fuse block, relay block, ecu

24-09-12, 10:08 AM
VH-sle on photobucket feel free to trawll through my 1000s of pics, you may just find one with the rx7 turbo on a manifold. i just had a 8mm flange cut and welded directly square to the manifold

24-09-12, 10:22 AM
this is way too good for a 13's car!

24-09-12, 11:05 AM
Did you paint the floor? It looks so clean. How much dash board do you plan to put back in?

24-09-12, 01:35 PM
Did you paint the floor? It looks so clean. How much dash board do you plan to put back in?

Yeah, a quick coat of grey spray paint where factory paint was removed due to sound deadening removal.

Dash (and the rest of interior) will be reinstalled ot the point that it looks factory once the wiring is done.

this is way too good for a 13's car!

I wasn't sure how far I would take this car after the challenge so I tried to do things 'right' the first time. Now that I've nearly finished the build I realise that the chassis is massive and if i was to take things seriously I would be silly not to put the driveline in a smaller car. Then comes the issue with gearbox weakness and rarity. That could be solved with a Toyota gearbox but then I may as well use the Toyota engine that comes with the gearbox. That would mean none of the Mazda 626 would remain! Bah, I'm just finishing this thing as best and as quickly as I can so I can get some good racing in before the year is out.

VH-sle on photobucket feel free to trawll through my 1000s of pics, you may just find one with the rx7 turbo on a manifold. i just had a 8mm flange cut and welded directly square to the manifold

Thanks for the photos. Found your photobucket account. Looks like you upgraded intercooler first and then turbo. Suprised you were able to fit the turbo by welding a flange onto the underside of the factory manifold. I wasn't so lucky. Did you end up keeping a/c?

24-09-12, 08:34 PM

one more night left on the body loom before i start on the engine loom. after tomorrow night i'll be at the half way mark.

24-09-12, 10:20 PM
no ac, thats why i sold the car, only way i could fit it all and with the thermo on the front, 600x300 cooler fits easy enough

01-10-12, 10:12 PM
was hoping to have this thing ready for first start this long weekend but it will have to wait until next weekend because i've been feeling pretty average.

wiring 95% done. i'll wrap it during the week so it looks the goods. yeah, there is a red battery cable where there should be a black one and vice versa; gotta make do with the lengths that i got cause i didn't want to buy new battery cable.

very much looking forward to a summer of racing this thing. shakedown run before the 17th of this month. i should make that deadline easy unless something completely unforeseen happens.


02-10-12, 10:56 PM
ok, last of the wiring done tonight and i saved the best to last

the joint in the attached pic is all business...
(black heat shrinked joint at the bottom)

cables coming from top down:
● 1 off core from a 6x core shielded data cable
● shield sheath unravelled from a 6x core shielded data cable and strands bought together to form a 'cable' for the joint
(both the cables above were housed in red heat shrink, which is the left of the two red heat shrinked cables in the joint in the pic)
● 2 off 0.85mm^2 ECU ground cables
● shield sheath unravelled from a 4x 0.85mm^2 core shielded cable and strands brought together to form a 'cable' for the joint
(the cable above was housed in red heat shrink, which is the right of the two red heat shrinked cables in the joint in the pic)

cables coming from bottom up:
● 1 off 2mm^2 ground
● 1 off 1.25mm^2 ground
● 1 off 0.85mm^2 ground

in situ:
● cables from top overlapped approx. 8mm with cables from bottom
● approx. 6mm deep crimp connector applied
● joint soldered and heat shrinked
● back broken from sitting curled up for an hour


03-10-12, 01:28 AM
Looking (too) good

03-10-12, 02:10 AM
^^ this lol

03-10-12, 06:42 AM
tip of the iceberg ;)

03-10-12, 07:09 AM
Hey you may actually finish a car!! I cant wait to see what you can squeeze out of it after all the hard work.

11-10-12, 10:56 PM
haha. a car is only ever really finished when it is crashed, burned, cut up into little pieces, etc. though.

ok, with mech & elec mods (i.e. comfort zone) wrapping up a week or two ago it is time to stop procrastinating and move onto the tuning and drag racing... where experience starts running thin.

first up - prepping the car for first start

night 1 was spent adding fluids and checking for leaks. i didn't get far before the leaks began.
firstly, fuel was added to the fuel tank and started leaking out the drain valve. no worries, i've got another small bore ball valve floating around somewhere.
next was coolant, which consists of a 0% solution to 100% water mix for the purposes of this challenge.
straight into the radiator and out of the water pump it went. off with the timing belt covers to inspect where it was leaking from. the leak looked like it was originating from the seal between pump housing & block, so off with the crank pulley, accessory belts, timing cover, timing gear and water pump. water pump housing and its steel gasket checked out ok. a light smear of RTV silicone on either side of the steel gasket and it was good to go again. reinstalled everything and called it a night.

night 2 (tonight) was a continuation of night 1 activities, starting with coolant addition. fuck, the leak hasn't gone away. again the front of the engine was stripped off to get a visual on the leak. this time i spent a little more time tracing the leak and it traced back to a 'weep port' on the pump housing. silly me. funny thing happened though, the leak stopped after a while. ah well, if it reappears at a later date a new water pump is cheap from eBay.
next i replaced a few spring hose clamps with worm gear hose clamps to stop a few more coolant leaks.
after that was engine oil - all good.
then gearbox oil - no dice. there was a small leak in the passenger gearbox driveshaft seal. that shaft had to come in and out a few times, even though i was trying to take care i must have damaged it slightly. will get a new seal and replace the leaking one on the weekend.
also, will need to do brakes and clutch on the weekend with the help of a mate.

with all fluids 'out of the way', it was time to turn my attention to wiring. the car has been completely rewired so all circuits need testing. turned the shed lights off and tested all car exterior lighting - all good. i also heard the fuel pump prime on ignition on so i knew the ecu was working to some extent. excellent. all that really is left to test now are EFI sensors (yes, that's how little wiring is in the car).
to test EFI sensors requires a laptop connection to the ECU. luckly Haltech have a written and a video guide on the topic, which helped a computer dunce like me immensely. a connection was established pretty much first go by following the steps in the guide. ecu tune was extracted to harddrive and whilst the laptop was still connected to the ecu i checked sensor values like ECT & IAT - all good.
time to call it a night.

next step - learning Haltech software basics, then creating a 'tune' file with basic engine parameters, fuel and spark curves, then loading it into the ecu and attempting first start.

really impressed with the old Haltech E6K so far. most of the stuff written about it on the net is negative, and nearly all of that negativity is from ignorance / operator idiocy. there are good guides out there in addition to a detailed user manual and pretty easy to navigate software. looking forward to tuning with it.

12-10-12, 08:10 AM
Classic misinformation:

"You would have an easier time tuning a carburetor. E6K, No wideband support, no datalogging, no idle control, no boost control, you have to tune the fuel map by looking at the RPM rows. meaning you can only look at 1000rpm. then you need to go back through the menus to get to the 1500. then another menu to get to 2000. Very time consuming and very easy to make mistakes without noticing. Poor injector staging. Stay away.

EB Turbo"

All of this is false!

12-10-12, 08:51 AM
My 510 still runs a dirty old E6K. They work fine. Be aware that blending and doing big 'whole map' changes will take a little time.

12-10-12, 11:57 PM
Super tidy job once again. What do you do for work? I seem to see your VS ute all the time around West End.

13-10-12, 08:30 PM
I work for an engineering mob in West End. You work in West End too?

13-10-12, 08:46 PM
Spent most of the day reading the Haltech E6K manual, except for a few not applicable areas. All seems to make sense. Was entering values into the tune file as I was going through the manual.

Once I was satisfied that the base tune file was good enough I attempted a first start but I couldn't get an RPM signal (which Im guessing is an error with the triggering). Tomorrrow's problem. Could really do with an oscilloscope right about now.

Oh, the leaking passenger gearbox driveshaft seal was because the driveshaft was not fully engaged. Easy fix and lesson learnt.

Here's what the wiring job ended up looking like. I decided not to wrap it in elec tape but it would look so much neater if I did. Function before form though for this build.


13-10-12, 09:20 PM
Love it.... Looking great.... Oh, and another Fan of the E6K..... Had one in my VR4 back in the day.... Great ECU.... In its time... :)

14-10-12, 12:49 AM
I work for an engineering mob in West End. You work in West End too?

Yeah I see you drive past my workshop most mornings at 630ish. /stalker

16-10-12, 07:20 PM
well i had all weekend to get a first start out of the car but it was to no avail. the Haltech would not accept the factory reluctor sensor trigger and home signals (indicated by 0rpm on the runtime parameters page).

upon googling this issue i found many others experience it and a common fix is a $200 Haltech RA10 stand-alone analogue to digital signal converter. this would change the factory reluctor signals into square wave signals similar to a Hall effect sensor, which is much easier for the ecu to process.

another option would be to replace reluctor sensors with hall effect sensors but i think that would be too much effort.

not having $200 to spare for the Haltech black box i've decided to have a go at making something similar for a fraction of the cost. i found a circuit schematic and hardware list for a "VR conditioner" (variable reluctor analogue to digital signal converter) on a Megasquirt ecu site. the circuit is based around a LM1815 integrated circuit.

i need to do a bit more reading about it to see if it is the right thing for my application. if so, i'll order the bits and solder it together. the LM1815 needs to be 'calibrated' with various resistors and capacitors for current limiting, filtering, mode selection, etc. i'm a little worried about that because i have no electronics background.

will let you guys know how i go. i REALLY want to drive this beast now that it is all but finished.

25-10-12, 10:22 PM
i didn't want to introduce you all to the new and improved Burgess (the barge arse) until after her maiden run down the quarter but alas, i'm bored as fuck waiting for some electronic parts to make a small circuit to finish it off. here she is:

Two soarer intercoolers become one

Factory turbo manifold with home made series 5 rx7 turbine inlet flange adapter welded on

Adapter making progress pic. I actually remade the turbine inlet flange with a new towbar steel one that has threaded in studs instead of welded in studs (welded in studs were because I accidently overdrilled the holes).

Adapter making progress pic.

Adapter making progress pic.

New engine bay mounted fuel tank. I have a fucken massive sheet of 2.5mm Al plate that I took the materials from. The thicker Al plate flanges were actually donated by a fellow 13s for $1300 competitor!

Picked up a couple old rusty 3” lancer exhausts for $40. This is what I managed to salvage out of them. Enough to make a full 3” system yeah baby.

Factory mani pre modding

Factory mani pre modding

New hollow dash

This shit removed from the driver’s seat

Most of this shit removed from the driver’s seat. Basically made a new frame but sorry I don’t have any pics of it.

Finally found a use for some Al sheet I’ve had lying around for a few years. It was originally purchased for a door card. Only saved about 4.5kg from this mod I think.

All of this shit gone from the driver’s seat. Think I saved maybe 15kg all up on the driver’s seat mods.

Wheel well delete

Wheel well delete

Wheel well delete

Hollow dash

Fake heater controls

Dash blanking panels. Got a black acrylic off cut for free from a plastic fabricator down the road FTW.

Gearstick rubber bushing deleted

Rear crossmember lightened.

Rear crossmember lightened.

New lightweight steering wheel mount

Halved the weight of these things with some ghetto fab.

Lightened front doors. Two window settings – all the way up or half way down.

Miscellaneous brackets

Door cards now sporting glued on components to look half normal.

Bonnet latch support piece.

Windscreen wipe mechanism delete. Windscreen wipers kept to look road legal and shit.

Deleted windscreen wipe mechanism.

Shit removed from the side mirrors

Hooks to hang the front doorcards from (similar to the factory plastic ones that had deteriorated)

Sunroof mechanism delete. Prob 15kg saved here.

Dump pipe. Custom oil line (straightened out and rebent factory one). Custom turbo coolant lines (recycled from 1jz piping I had laying around).

New intercooler that consists of two old Soarer intercoolers welded together. Total cost $10!!! Ugly as sun but it will flow a shitload.

Oil drain out recycled from 1jz piping I had laying around.

Straightened out and rebent turbo oil feed line

Straightened out and rebent turbo oil feed line http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee289/c_r_a_c_k/13%20for%201300%20Mazda%20626%20Turbo/yeahes3.jpg

Turbo brace. No shortcuts in this 13s for $1300 build thank you very much.

Turbo brace.

Turbo brace.

‘New’ exhaust. Will be loud but free flowing enough not to warrant removing it at the track.

‘New’ exhaust.

Intercooler piping. Made from some 2.5” exhaust tube I had to buy new from the exhaust shop. $40 worth.

Where the turbo sits in the engine bay. My first manifold attempt (made out of the car) clashed with the radiator. Had to remake a shitload – remade manifold adapter piece, dump pipe cut up and rewelded, remade turbo brace, turbo oil line rebent, etc.

New air filter position

Say ‘cheese’ Mr Engine Bay. Everything now painted black and looking much better.

More of the same.

New BOV flange welded flush into the intercooler plumbing.

Lobster backed goodness.

New turbo inlet pipe. Had to get creative here to get from 4” to 2.5”. Had a 4” pod filter laying around for about 5yrs. I needed it for a short while after I had a K&N filter failure when I first put a turbo on my ute ages ago.

Turbo intake pipe.

Turbo intake pipe.

3” exhaust.

Battery relocation and new fuel tank.

More of the same.

Dump pipe.




Radiused inlets into intercooler end tanks. Every kW counts brah.



Fuel tank drain.

Rear spring lockout system.

Rear spring lockout system.

Rear spring lockout system.

Rear spring lockout system.

Rear spring lockout system.

Lightened rear crossmember

Rear spring lockout system.

Rear spring lockout system.

Fab ready for painting

25-10-12, 10:59 PM
You are out of control. In a good way

26-10-12, 08:06 AM
Rough idea on weight removed?

26-10-12, 08:09 AM
^ what he said...I'm blown away at the fab work

26-10-12, 08:10 AM
shree hungee once at the track with the seats and spare tyre out hopefully. i would love to weight it to confirm. don't forget it started out over 1300kg so it's still no light weight.

I'm DJ!
26-10-12, 08:31 AM
Fuck me!

26-10-12, 08:39 AM
awesome work man

26-10-12, 10:56 AM
Excellent work. Keep it up!

26-10-12, 01:16 PM
Just roll up onto the scales at stapylton tip. record the weight on the meter and then tell the attendant sorry i just wanted to know how much the car weighed.

26-10-12, 01:17 PM
thats some damn impressive work..

26-10-12, 06:00 PM
A++++ , will read again


26-10-12, 07:53 PM
Just roll up onto the scales at stapylton tip. record the weight on the meter and then tell the attendant sorry i just wanted to know how much the car weighed.

done that before at the local tip, gave the guy a 6 pack got told i could come any time i wanted

26-10-12, 07:55 PM
they have to let you for free anyway. you could be getting tare weight for bringing a load to the tip

26-10-12, 09:47 PM
Impressive work and a lot of thought... fumbs up

27-10-12, 07:51 AM
with your sensor interface dramas, had you considered something like a camira module ? they convert a sine wave into a 5v dc square wave signal. there would be others too i'm sure. your local self serve wrecker might even donate a couple for you.

27-10-12, 09:12 AM
You're a lunatic. Come and work on my car for a week or two please!

27-10-12, 03:57 PM
I'm glad you guys like it!

Looks like I'll be taking it to the tip once it is up and running.

briney, I'm pissed I missed that module when I was Googling a solution to my trigger issues. That looks like the thing i'm after.

The Camira ignition module converts a reluctor signal from a 4 tooth trigger wheel. The module might have issues with the 626's reluctor signal from a 24 tooth trigger wheel (i.e. trying to convert a signal that is 6 times as frequent). Pulling apart the 626 dizzy to mod the 24 tooth wheel to a 4 tooth wheel is easier than it sounds as the dizzy is proving hard to pull apart.

Another issue is if I wasn't able to pull the dizzy apart to grind off 5 out of every 6 teeth then I'd need to run a home signal reluctor and this would require a second Camira ignition module. Budget would become an issue. I could 'borrow' the modules but that wouldn't be in the spirit of the comp.


I'll hold out for a week and give my $10 reluctor conditioner circuit a go (the main ICs are on their way over from the UK). Below is the schematic and PCB layout I've drawn up. It is based on the LM1815 IC and resistor and capacitor values I've taken from Megasquirt recommendations. (P.S. I'll make the 5V and ground traces much wider before I make the PCB.)


27-10-12, 04:17 PM
If the N13 Delco ignition module would suit I'm pretty sure I have one or two spare, threw out the camira stuff I had though unfortunatley :(

Sent from my SGH-I927 using Tapatalk 2

27-10-12, 04:41 PM
eBay says they suit.

Item Name:

DAEWOO 1.5I ENGINE CODE G15MF, 8/94-10/95 4 CYL 1.5L

I might try and get one from the wreckers tomorrow. If that falls through I'll hit you up. Thanks

27-10-12, 05:26 PM
eBay says they suit.

Item Name:

DAEWOO 1.5I ENGINE CODE G15MF, 8/94-10/95 4 CYL 1.5L

I might try and get one from the wreckers tomorrow. If that falls through I'll hit you up. Thanks

I've got one you can try and use/replace/return. Located in Lutwyche.

27-10-12, 08:31 PM
i dunno man, you could borrow tims and try it out. the n13 one is the same too.

27-10-12, 08:58 PM
well the dizzy trigger wheel now only has 4 teeth. there is a pin that i needed to remove to get the shaft out. tap it out with a hammer i thought. nah, turns out i needed to fab up a mini dizzy stand & a couple of different length mini punches and use a 20t press to get the bloody pin out.


i only got $18.50 build money left and i can't see a wreckers selling me an ignition module for under $20 so i might end up having to use the $10 circuit. BUT, the chance to potentially start this sucker up tomorrow is too nearly too good to refuse. hmmm... i'll have to sleep on it.

27-10-12, 09:05 PM
If I can track down where my N13 ignition modules are in the shed id be happy to donate one for free for this epic build ;)

Sent from my SGH-I927 using Tapatalk 2

27-10-12, 09:41 PM
i can turn a blind eye, im sure others could

27-10-12, 10:56 PM
steal it from the wreckers or come borrow mine.

27-10-12, 10:58 PM
do you have your laptop talking to the e6k? i need to extract my map out of mine, it might be easier for me to borrow yours for 10mins instead of me building a virtual-pc with dos on it. I can drop that module over if that suits? Are you around tomoorow?

27-10-12, 11:46 PM
there are 2 JB camiras and a 1.5 daewoo rotting in my paddock, what module do you need?

29-10-12, 09:45 PM
Well, got this thing started today.

Sunday picked up an '8 pin' GM HEI module out of a N13 pulsar dizzy (thanks for all the offers guys). Bench tested the HEI module and it worked like a charm. Took the Haltech E6K out of the car and wired it up to the module and tried to get the ecu to recognise it. No love.


In desparation I called an fellow PF member who very generously lent me his E6K.

Well today I had the day off work so I started putting the spare ecu in the car and feeding it the raw reluctor signal. It worked perfectly first time. Fuck, that means my ecu is faulty. Alas, you don't learn stuff if everything goes to plan. I now know a little about electronics, have the ability to make my own PCB boards and can use an oscilloscope - all of which came about because of the ecu fault.

Anyhow, time to get the thing started (on borrowed ecu). Throttle position sensor calibration - done. MAP, IAC & ECT sensors values - all look OK. Turn the fuel system off and check timing with the timing light. Timing light shows no flashes. Only used timing light recently so did not suspect a problem with it. Traced out all ignition related wiring and it all checks out. Get ready to step it up a notch and start probing wires but had a moment of sanity and decided to actually remove the lead to the dizzy and put it close by the block to do a visual spark check. Whatdoyouknow, there is spark. Quick trip to autosuperco and I have a new timing light.

Ok, lets try that again... check timing with the timing light - it's out by 20deg. Ah shit, I realised where I stuffed up my measurements the other night when i modded the trigger wheel from 24 teeth to 4 teeth. The 'trigger edge' (point at which tooth associated with cylinder 1 passes the reluctor sensor) window that the E6K allows is from 60-100deg BTDC. My measurements were supposed to result in a trigger edge of 80deg. After adjusting the base timing in the software I ended up with a trigger edge dead on 100. Lucky I guess, but also fucken pissed - stuffing up critical measurements like that is unacceptable soldier.

Battery voltage starting to get low; time to rip out the battery charger. Wtf? It's fucked too. God damn. Research the latest hotness in battery chargers to suit different battery types, abiltity to trickle charge, etc., etc.. End up just going to autosuperco and getting whatever. Arse is now seriously sore.

Back home now, open up redtubattery on charge. Fuck it, go for first start! Turn fuel system back on. Turn key - nothing. Well a few random combustion events. Ok, let the fuel system trouble shooting begin. Straight off with the return line into a bucket. Run the pump and nothing out of the line, yet the pump is running flat out. Oh shit! I got the polarity wrong. The fuel pump has been spinning in the opposite direction for ages and is probably fucked... is what I first thought. Out with the fuel pump. The small section of rubber hose between the fuel pump and the discharge line in its holding bracket is completely disintegrated. Didn't use fuel proof hose, whoops (the rubber hose I used externally did look exactly like fuel hose though). Put a new section of hose in and compressed air blow down pump and bracket to remove disintegrated old hose bits and pieces. Go to drop the pump assembly back in the tank and notice bits and pieces of hose throughout the fuel. Tank off, dirty petrol tipped out, tank rinsed out with clean petrol, tank reinstalled, pump assembly reinstalled. Good to go?

Yeah, turn the key and it fires to life. Tiny bit of throttle required to keep it idling. The idle adjustment screw will take care of that. Go to adjust the screw but it is missing. Search everywhere but can't find it. Bah! What a shitty day riddled with first world problems. At least wiring was 100%. I'm going to have the rest of the week off.

29-10-12, 09:58 PM
Most EFI fuel hose is not suitable for running submersed in fuel.
The Outer layer is not rated for it. You need 30R10 rated hose.

29-10-12, 10:01 PM
sucks about the ECU mate.

29-10-12, 10:31 PM
Most EFI fuel hose is not suitable for running submersed in fuel.
The Outer layer is not rated for it. You need 30R10 rated hose.

hmm... i wonder what i used when jerry rigging an aeromotive pump into my old crab box vs? I'm sure it would of been some rubbish I found lying around. I definitely didn't order anything fancy. Oh well at least it lasted 6 months of commuting to and from work before going to the wreckers to die.

Glad you got it going, some form of relief i guess. Lucky there are generous people on this forum.

29-10-12, 10:49 PM
thanks tanman, will fix that asap.

just had a look on the Haltech forums. they will not repair the e6k's anymore. looks like i'm in the market for a cheap ecu again.

29-10-12, 10:57 PM

29-10-12, 11:06 PM
didn't see that thread.

having now read it i wonder if i have to get a reluctor chip installed in mine as per Ben Wilson's post? i'll give Haltech a call tomorrow.

Side show
04-11-12, 01:46 AM
Funny as shit!

Now, have you stopped eating yet? That could save you, oh, 100g or so...

06-11-12, 06:59 PM
haha, yeah. not much weight to lose on my end.

car ready for tuning!!! starts and cruises on base map! drag radials on order. old falcon rims with hideously low offset in my possession (may or may not be a good thing during torque steer; only one way to find out)

i present to you, Burgess the Barge Arse:


I'm DJ!
06-11-12, 07:31 PM
Mate, fucking love it well done

06-11-12, 07:41 PM
good work!!

07-11-12, 10:31 AM
Suspension is sitting high, that's a good sign

07-11-12, 11:02 AM
That's come up a treat man, well done!

07-11-12, 02:51 PM
^. Looks great.

08-11-12, 07:35 AM
haha top stuff!
When are you putting it down off the jack stands?

08-11-12, 12:21 PM
would be good to get it a bit lower but the springs have a taper so i'm afraid cutting out a coil would result in them not seating properly. oxy'ing them would work but i don't have an oxy.

besides, at the strip the rear spring lockouts will keep the back end at max extension and i don't want the front end too low because the near zero offset rims and 245 drag radials stick well out past the guards.

will be interesting to see if the rear spring lockouts make any improvement. installation at the strip will be as easy as jacking up the car, slotting in the lockout plates (2 plates per side) and bolting them in place (1 bolt per side).

08-11-12, 01:24 PM


BTW Awesome work!

08-11-12, 03:07 PM
should really bring this round so i can laugh at it and admire it in the same breath...

11-11-12, 02:20 PM


BTW Awesome work!

indeed it has shot up a fair amount. kind of looks a bit silly now.

should really bring this round so i can laugh at it and admire it in the same breath...

no worries. once she's tuned i'll bring her around.

speaking of tuning, meant to start yesterday but was raining the whole day.

just took it out for a 30min spin. it starts and cruises just fine. power steering rack w/o pump is much easier to use than i anticipated. no front and rear sway bars coupled with higher centre of gravity also nowhere near as bad as i anticipated. it always helps to think the worst.

i made a 'E6K log analysis' excel sheet to take the raw data from the E6K logs and make it a bit more user friendly. had to use some macros in the excel sheet and i suck at macros so it took me a couple nights to make. tested it out on the drive and it works well enough that i'll stick with it. basically with the click of a button the excel sheet imports, delineates, tabulates and graphs the log raw data as well as highlights (in blue) were the cursor is on the table and graphs.

lol! check out the ignition timing in the logs. i spent the 30min drive with timing locked at 10deg BTDC but was only looking at fuelling so i missed it. wat a noob.


11-11-12, 07:41 PM
So you'll make it to wed TnT?

11-11-12, 07:51 PM
it's only got a 5psi tune. need to work it up to 15psi before i head to Willowbank. probably will aim for it though.

11-11-12, 08:10 PM
I'll come down to cheer ya on/ point at things! Good work mate!

11-11-12, 08:42 PM
won't be much chop first couple times out. if you see me out there come and say high.

16-11-12, 10:01 PM
I have never seem this thread before - fucking speechless.

So much awesome shit, well done.

16-11-12, 10:43 PM
agreed. top notch work, fab work is excellent.

17-11-12, 07:52 AM
thanks guys

spent a few nights this week driving the Mazda around trying to find a road tuning spot. i'm such a fucken pussy; i'd find a spot but there would be either too many cars or it would be too close to houses. i've had cops called on me before and it is not fun, especially when you're kicking around in a defectable vehicle. i guess the powers that be would rather us sitting down watching TV then pursuing our hobbies / challenging ourselves.

anyhow, bit the bullet, went to bed early and set the alarm for midnight for a early morning power run tuning session. with a relatively remote (but central!) spot identified i got to work. the spreadsheet i made to make the logs more user friendly worked awesomely. i worked up from 5 to 10 to 15PSI. ignition curve was a 'theoretical' one entered perviously and didn't need modifying at this point in time. did 3rd gear pulls. had rev limiter set to 7500rpm but the thing didn't want to rev much past 6000rpm (???). targeted 12:1 AFR under boost and worked up to it from richer AFRs.

towards the end of the night i had the tune at prob 11.7:1 AFR under boost and trimmed a little fuel out to hopefully get to the 12:1 AFR target. started the 3rd gear pull and under load it missed 3 or 4 times. analysed the log and it was good except for leaning out around the misses for whatever reason. did another pull and boost came on quicker than before, hence hitting parts of the map that were previously tuned leaner. immediately after this lean out onto boost there was heavy missing. i pulled over and added a heap of fuel everywhere. same result though: put foot down and boost comes on very quickly and missing starts soon after and the car feels like you've just hit the brake, not the accelerator.

haven't had a chance to look under the bonnet yet. i'm guessing it is my ignition system fucking up. there are only so many components to it so i'll go through them one by one. if anyone else has had/heard of similar issues or thinks they know what it could be please let me know!

17-11-12, 08:22 AM
whats boost and rpm like? my setup i think i made 2-4 psi in first total by 5000rpm. then 8 in every other gear by 4500.
no chance it will make power past 5000rpm, tune for bulk torque. these are tractor motors. dont rev it

17-11-12, 08:34 AM
Yeah no chance of revving it hard, it just wont happen without some big head work.

I used to have a similar high boost miss which I could never figure out even on the stock ecu. Played around with plugs and leads and it never made much difference.

17-11-12, 09:27 AM
yeah, with peak torque (at 15psi) happening at about 4krpm and fuel requirements dropping off there after i wasn't really expecting to use much more than 6krpm before changing gears anyway. i guess i was kind of caught by suprise that it wouldn't rev out to the redline point on the factory tacho.

E-Z haven't done any second gear (or first gear) pulls yet. second gear power runs seems to go too quick even though i'm sure i'd have the traction to do it at this point in time.

third gear makes 15psi at 4250rpm according to this old log that i found from the other night (prior to sorting out AFR in the top end... and prior to epic miss issue)


17-11-12, 04:12 PM
issue turned out to be a loose nut on the body ground collection point. forgot to tighten the nut during installation and it gradually loosened to the point at which Burgess became undriveable.

tightened nut and all is good. celebration (non skid) vid to come.

17-11-12, 04:21 PM
Edit: links deleted.

Can't wait to see if it does 13's!

17-11-12, 04:28 PM
thanks Damo. thanks for your help today too.



17-11-12, 04:50 PM
TAKE THAT! You fucken intercooler!

Can't wait to see what this does at the track

17-11-12, 05:06 PM
lol fuck the cooler. sounds good, boost is impressive

17-11-12, 05:11 PM
i thought with the car being 2 foot off the ground and all that the intercooler clearance wouldn't be a problem. was wrong but no fucks given.

19-11-12, 06:50 PM
I found a piston and rod out of one of these engines at home, the rod is very beefy, maybe about 50% larger cross sectional area that a early 90's twin cam 626 one I had it next to.


19-11-12, 07:09 PM
Cool! Rod looks beefy. How strong does the piston look (don't know jack about them)?

19-11-12, 07:15 PM
issue turned out to be a loose nut on the body ground collection point. forgot to tighten the nut during installation and it gradually loosened to the point at which Burgess became undriveable.

tightened nut and all is good. celebration (non skid) vid to come.

I told you they are cranky about their earths haha

19-11-12, 08:33 PM
that looks pretty rapid for what it is!

19-11-12, 09:42 PM
Chirps 2nd?

Keen to see what this does at the track also.

20-11-12, 06:06 AM
Chirps 2nd?

Keen to see what this does at the track also.

Its sustains wheel spin in 2nd from when the turbo comes on boost until its time to change gear, its chirps third. I think it will do a good time if it can get traction and keep the cogs inside the box. Me thinks it will be one or the other... wheel spin or broken box. I guess time will tell.

20-11-12, 08:02 AM
I think the box will be fine with street tyres but 245 drag radials will make it work.

Spent the night getting the 3rd gear pulls to flat 12:1 afr only to drive back home and give it a squirt in 4th and it be 0.5 afr leaner and then in 5th 0.5 afr leaner again. Not really into doing 200km/hr power runs on the street so chucked a bunch of fuel in and called it a night.

Think Haltech bar style tuning is fucking with my shit.

EDIT: Leaner not richer!

20-11-12, 08:54 AM
What might be changing between to cause that?

20-11-12, 08:56 AM
boost? because the turbo is so big on it, its probaly actually running different boost levels every gear?

20-11-12, 10:40 AM
its was only running marginally more boost in the higher gears and to be honest i flatlined fuel values after 15psi so when it was hitting just above 15s in the higher gears then that could account for it being a bit leaner but i wouldn't have thought as much as it was.

also, maybe the higher gears bring load on quicker and hence trace a different path of speed/load cells through the fuel table. if i'd only tuned fuel for the '3rd gear path' and not extrapolated these fuel values properly to adjacent speed/load cells then the different paths that 4th and 5th gear trace may be in lean areas.

injector duty was at about 60% max during gear pulls. the fuel pump seemed to be keeping up with 15psi and 6.5krpm in 3rd gear so at a similar duty cycle, boost pressure and rpm in 4th and 5th gears the fuel pump should be under no extra load.

20-11-12, 10:45 AM
it probably makes about 1/5 fuckall difference to overall power. 12.1:1 up top in 3rd is pretty much spot on.

20-11-12, 08:47 PM
also, maybe the higher gears bring load on quicker and hence trace a different path of speed/load cells through the fuel table. if i'd only tuned fuel for the '3rd gear path' and not extrapolated these fuel values properly to adjacent speed/load cells then the different paths that 4th and 5th gear trace may be in lean areas.
This certainly sounds like the cause. Should be fixable with the datalogs if you have them for 4th and 5th gear pulls. I normally use a dyno for this as it is hard to get right alone.

21-11-12, 09:24 PM
dyno would make things easier. especially since i need to make more power and i'm probably at the stage of losing traction in 3rd gear with another 5 or so psi. lots of learning still to be had with street (and strip) tuning though... just wish you could do street tuning without having to go so far over the speed limit.

below are tonight's effots, so close to a 13. just didn't quite have the power. turned up at the track after 1.5hr of heavy traffic, removed the spare tyre and got straight to work.


21-11-12, 09:28 PM
Soo close.

Couple months ago and some cooler nights and you would have been there!

21-11-12, 10:00 PM
100mph is well into the 13's with traction. You need traction...

22-11-12, 06:08 AM
Was out there last night, cool car and just oh so close! Did you end up letting your tyres down at all? Looks like traction was letting you down! Or just a bigger burnout!!

I'm DJ!
22-11-12, 06:24 AM
Fuck wish I'd known you were heading out. Good effort, bit more traction and it's there!

22-11-12, 07:11 AM
hey Dexi, was it you i was talking to briefly last night in the pits?

didn't let the tyres down. was thinking about it. i'll try it next time.

i didn't think traction issues were too bad. 1st gear was manageable because i probably wasn't making much boost. 2nd gear wheel hopped all the way throught it, so i managed that with a little less throttle. 3rd gear onwards was all good. yeah, could prob launch harder with drag radials and keep 100% throttle through 2nd gear, which would see easy 13s. (i've logged a couple passes, so will confirm boost per gear when i get a chance to review them.)

i think the answer to any question though is more horsepower, so next time i'll be on 20psi and some toluene with street tyres let down a bit.

edit: drag radials are at home ready to go but i don't want to play that card just yet

22-11-12, 04:34 PM
Nah mate, wasn't me. Was just out spectating for the night... Good shit mate!

22-11-12, 05:04 PM
14.0 first time out is pretty good especially with driving it to the track and all that.

Well done. Looking forward to seeing more.

22-11-12, 05:07 PM
looking at the 60' times it looks like it's hooking up ok (for a lowish powered fwd thing)

definitely just make more power haha.

06-12-12, 09:40 AM
interesting few weeks

incident with police helicopter, subsequent car search and no defects issued proved the 'road registered' nature of the car.

13.90s @ 105mph pass last night proved the '13s for $1300' spec of the car.

http://www.dragphotos.com.au/img/s1/v47/p1313125264-2.jpg (http://www.dragphotos.com.au/p656809800/e4e44b390)
http://www.dragphotos.com.au/img/s11/v35/p1313134572-2.jpg (http://www.dragphotos.com.au/p656809800/e4e44d7ec)

06-12-12, 09:44 AM
What were you doing that caught their eye?
Congrats on meeting the target!

06-12-12, 09:51 AM
details on heli incident?

06-12-12, 10:06 AM
Reverse helis attract the heli?

06-12-12, 10:25 AM
Good work on the time - plenty of mph :)

More details of airborne incident!

06-12-12, 10:28 AM
Awesome mate :) I'm happy it worked out for you

06-12-12, 10:40 AM
nice work Chris

gotta be pleased you made it achieve what you set out to do

06-12-12, 11:08 AM
Road tuning on the m1 at midnight I believe.

Great result!

06-12-12, 12:29 PM
Nah, was just going to visit my cousin and they must have mistook me for a suspect escaping the scene of a multiple homicide.

Thanks guys!

Was awesome to run a 13! Track temps were robbing power and street tyres didn't help with consistency. Only really got one run 'right' for the night to land the 13.90 - most were low 14s. Forth time ever at the drag strip and I'm still loving the environment and not really fully concentrating on the task at hand.

Back again next week with drag radials and fingers crossed.

06-12-12, 03:37 PM
Thought i seen this out there last night, congrats on hitting the target, 5mph up on the hyundai of death

I'm DJ!
06-12-12, 03:58 PM
da fuck re the chopper.

That is relevant to all our interests.

Congrats on the times, sensational. But yeah give us some info on el choppo plz

06-12-12, 04:37 PM
he made a thread about it when it happened, you guys mustn't have been paying enough attention

06-12-12, 04:47 PM
good work man. it'll be interesting to see what difference sticky tyres make.

06-12-12, 05:29 PM
Nice work on the mph and the 13!

What 60' time?

06-12-12, 09:27 PM
started the night with 30% toluene / 70% 98RON mixture (as opposed to straight 98RON), 2deg more advance & 4psi more boost

got a shit load of runs but as you can see i lack consistency

here is the log of the 13.90:

some details from the log:
● 60% throttle 1st and half of 2nd
● inj duty cycle up to about 50%
● IATs level out at about 50degC
● 12:1 AFR when in boost
● ignition advance at about 20deg BTDC under full load
● changing gears at redline (6500rpm)
● 1st to 2nd gear change puts me at 4750rpm in 2nd
● 2st to 3nd gear change puts me at 4500rpm in 3rd
● 3st to 4nd gear change puts me at 5000rpm in 4th
● peak boost in 1st - 13.1psi
● peak boost in 2nd, 3rd & 4th - 19psi

10-12-12, 02:25 PM
Al Burg gets some new shoes. Old Falcon rims with bugger all offset were used to mount the drag radials. (Just a trial fit; I'm aware they're on the wrong way.)


All street legal up in here


10-12-12, 02:32 PM
Have you got a way of locking the rear suspension? (Rachet straps work well and also lower your CoG)

10-12-12, 02:38 PM
i do have a way of locking the rear suspension fully extended but have not been game enough to try it crossing the line at 170km/hr.

ratchet straps aren't a bad idea.

10-12-12, 02:45 PM
Yeah tighten them down so you have around 1 inch of travel left and throw a shockie rubber over the strut shaft to soften any bump. Also attach them in a way that the 1 inch of travel won't free them.....

12-12-12, 09:13 PM
saw this kicking some ass tonight, 13.1 at 105, 106 i think?

12-12-12, 09:14 PM
13.1 on drag radials!

Lost an alt belt on the way home and stuck on the side of the ippy motorway lol

12-12-12, 09:38 PM
good result!

aside from the belt that is.

12-12-12, 10:03 PM
Nice effort.

Funny, first time I ever did some runs in a tx5 I lost the alt belt too.

12-12-12, 10:05 PM
13.1 on drag radials!

Lost an alt belt on the way home and stuck on the side of the ippy motorway lol

Fuck me, that's quicker than the Falcon went.

Well done.

12-12-12, 10:56 PM
thanks guys. just got home from the tow. will look at the timeslips another day. drag radials transformed the car.

couldn't run more than 19psi boost on the night (i think i need a smaller restrictor upstream of the manual boost controller to go any higher). really wanted to up the boost a little to get a 12.

I'm DJ!
13-12-12, 06:22 AM
Bloody hell well done mate, gotta be happy with that!

13-12-12, 06:47 AM
fuck me 13.1 thats faster than ive managed the get the supra down the strip...

i need to practice more lol

13-12-12, 06:55 AM
Now it's got me wondering how I would have gone with decent rubber rather than those old worn G60 McCreary's.

got to get me a set of drag radials for next time.

13-12-12, 07:09 AM
Thats awesome results! i thought it pulled pretty strong. how much power do you estimate it would be making?

13-12-12, 07:42 AM
Top result, more videos?

13-12-12, 11:49 AM
I was impressed.

19-12-12, 08:37 PM
no vids, dragphotos.com.au got some good photos (if i was looking up at the time i would have purchased this one)

http://www.dragphotos.com.au/img/s2/v72/p1327827372-2.jpg (http://www.dragphotos.com.au/p293355684/e4f2509ac)

attached are the results for the last test and tune:

19psi boost (couldn't run anymore on the night due to boost controller setup), 30% toluene/70% 98RON fuel, all seats except drivers taken out, 245/55R15 M&H Drag Radials @ 16-18PSI


compared to last time out's fasted time i picked up 0.73s in the 1st half and 0.06s in the 2nd half from the drag radials (and a slight weight reduction from removed seats).

next time out will be early next year, where i'll try and run a few more psi and lose a little bit more weight. the goal: 12sec pass driven out and back (with a tyre change and some unbolting of stuff at the track).

19-12-12, 08:43 PM
as for power does 220hp sound about right?


don't think there is much left in the turbo.

a mate of mine is pushing me to put a t4 compressor on the t3 turbo but it will blow the budgetl so i'll aim for a 12 without it first

01-02-13, 01:47 PM
Any news?

01-02-13, 02:16 PM
stage 2 underway - "fiddy fiddy"

aim: 50hp more and 50kg less

A bit over half way through weight reductions (aluminium bonnet hinges & handbrake lever, 3 pieces of fixed glass replaced with acrylic, holesawed door hinges, etc.). Would really love to replace the hatch glass with acrylic but I reckon it would look too defectable (transparent plastic = too much cost, opaque plastic = free from a bin near work).

On the lookout for a to4b v-trim compressor to highflow the series 5 rx7 turbo. Hoping for another 50hp (combination of impeller upgrade and more boost). This will take me over the budget by $100, so I'll need to take a 0.1sec hit as per the rules.

Hard to get motivation due to no other active competitors. Might have to aim for the RWD 13s for $1300 record.

01-02-13, 02:26 PM
Im sure ls400x will be on the job once he has finished stabing shit with a screwdriver.

01-02-13, 02:43 PM
gimmie $1300 and ill compete :P

01-02-13, 02:45 PM
Intrusion bars still there? Is it an electric sunroof?

01-02-13, 03:37 PM
intrusion bars and elec sunroof long gone. to give you an idea of what i'm up to i've holesawed off most of the unused nuts that are spot welded to the chassis...

holesawing with a hand drill is a cuntofajob though, so i've limited myself a bit with it

weight reduction is a funny thing. if you spend 2hr to remove 0.5kg you start to identify numerous other parts of the car that have a better "weight removed to time taken" ratio. so it's kind of like 1 step forward 2 steps back.

01-02-13, 03:38 PM
gimmie $1300 and ill compete :P

don't you go through like a car a month?

01-02-13, 03:59 PM
nah i try get 3 months out of them.

01-02-13, 05:23 PM
bumper brackets can go, all 3 passenger doors can be gutted to nothing but the skin, boot and bonnet structure can be completely removed etc etc
dry ice will lift the sound deadening off the floor. there's 15-20kg there alone.

01-02-13, 09:52 PM
ticked all those items off the list ages ago (well I hole sawed the hell out of the bumper brackets but didn't completely remove them)

01-02-13, 10:23 PM
Well it looks like leaf spring CM beam axle is next on the list....

02-02-13, 09:04 AM
What do the factory alloy wheels weigh compared to some steelies?

07-03-13, 12:15 PM
Well it looks like leaf spring CM beam axle is next on the list....

cool. you got hookups for a free one?

don't know about wheel weights. might have to bring some scales with me next time i'm at the wreckers. wouldn't think there would be much in it though.

turbo compressor high flow hopefully within the next few weeks. i've done up detail drawings stepping through the machining that is required. my mate's got a lathe at his house and is willing to help out with the machining. in the meantime i'll try and finish weight reduction. i've done firewall back and i'm now up to firewall forwards. will definitely take the car to the tip to get its weight before the project is over.

not impressed with the ebay special impeller. the impeller blades are relatively very thick and the stepped section on the back of the impeller was about 0.6mm higher than the factory impeller. it cost $48 so if i remove half my exhaust and my air filter at the track i might still be under budget.

got to make the call about whether to lock (by welding) the diff now that the driveline has been removed from the car for engine bay related weight reduction. i can do with the traction but don't want to blow up part of the driveline due to the additional loading.

07-03-13, 12:46 PM
lower times outweigh potential losses?

07-03-13, 08:31 PM
Bumcrack - I reckon lock it. Diff's seem to go in these more than boxes (although people have done 3rd). I think there have been some 11 second cars around on the stock locked box.

07-03-13, 09:34 PM
cool. you got hookups for a free one?

Not free but it was about $100 to make and saved around 35kg IIRC

08-03-13, 05:40 PM
Not free but it was about $100 to make and saved around 35kg IIRC

i think the mod is a great idea for a fwd drag car. 35kg is a great saving

Bumcrack - I reckon lock it. Diff's seem to go in these more than boxes (although people have done 3rd). I think there have been some 11 second cars around on the stock locked box.

cool. lock it in eddie


well, my mate has turned around the majority of the high flow machining already and if it wasn't for my cluttered drawings it'd be well on its way

that leaves the diff lock as the last major mod to do. of course there is a bit of firewall forward weight reduction to do but that is relatively easy.

at least a month away from getting to the track again.

11-03-13, 10:28 PM
high flow machining finished and turbo reassembled. my mate did a really good job and all dims, tolerances, surface finishes, etc. are spot on.

now sporting an s-trim impeller - 8mm larger inducer and 7mm larger exducer. good for a few more horsepowers.

sorry for the crappy iphone pics


12-03-13, 09:01 AM
Brilliant mate

12-03-13, 02:54 PM
Glad to see this is still moving.

12-03-13, 03:13 PM
awesome work with the highflow

13-03-13, 07:52 AM
You're right, the finished product does look good. I still think it would be a worthwhile excercise looking into the cost to get it ballanced. Would be a shame for it to grenade after doing such a good job on the mod.

13-03-13, 09:06 AM
Nah fuck that

13-03-13, 10:42 AM
hmmm, well the turbine impeller & shaft assembly is balanced from factory and i've added a new balanced compressor impeller. i'm led to believe that this component balancing is all that the OEM does.

if i end up keeping the turbo for a future 4cyl twincharge project then i'll look into new bearings, seals, 360deg thrust bearing, turbine impeller back cut as well as an assembly balance. i'll 'risk it' as is for this 13s for $1300 project.

22-03-13, 09:22 AM
Turbo bolted on yet?

22-03-13, 04:45 PM
turbo is ready to bolt on but won't happen until the engine is back in the car, which won't happen until i have locked the diff.

finally finished all weight reductions. lesson learnt: start with a light car and save several hundred hours labour.

i think i got my race weight down by another 50kg, which was the aim.

ready for diff locking this weekend. never done it before and going to try and get away with using the TIG welder.

22-03-13, 04:49 PM
should be pretty easy!


27-03-13, 07:35 AM
well, didn't get around to welding the diff last weekend. it is out and degreased though. factory workshop manuals made gearbox disassembly easy.

the machining is spherical inside the diff carrier and hence all side & spider gears have 'spherical' machining on their backsides... weird.

nevertheless, with a long weekend coming up it will all be back together and running. can't wait to be driving this again.

27-03-13, 10:19 AM
All the teeth still there? I pulled mine to do an lsd and there was already a few fragments of teeth floating around the case.

27-03-13, 01:08 PM
Was all in good condition. Tiny metal shavings around the magnet but nothing out of the ordinary.

Sounds like you got the LSD installed just in time. What type of LSD out of curiosity?


Didn't really get any photos of mods this time around. Found these on my phone:

seat mounting bracket
front and rear bumper supports
weight reduced door hinges
weight reduced door latches

28-03-13, 09:49 PM
Was a guru motorsports torsen lsd. The mx6 forum got a small run made.

26-04-13, 10:43 PM
thought i'd take this around the block once to try out the new locked front diff (plus no power streering).

what a thoroughly unenjoyable experience. i never thought i'd be afraid of a sub 300hp car.

come on to boost and it changes lanes on you (without your consent!). take a slow sharp corner and it overwhelms the hoon hotline.

for once i'm not looking forward to taking this thing to the track.

26-04-13, 11:00 PM
sounds excellent!

26-04-13, 11:45 PM
bwahahaha.....the 626 that bites you!