View Full Version : vlt 13's for $1300.

23-03-13, 06:57 PM
G'day cunts.
After stalking this forum ages ago when I had a boosted rotary vehicle and coming and going as vehicle flavors came and left i've decided to contribute.

In the form... of 13's for 1300$

Found a pos spec VL thats rego. Has a rb20det in it from a 32. Greddy FMIC, Blow off valve, 17 inch VY wheels, exhaust, manual, boost controller t peice, 044 intank pump and a few other things.

Set me back $200 with a massive bottom end knock. Still managed to drive home which was nice.

Started pulling it apart. Found a heap of boost leaks and unplugged things like TPS and where they had just snipped the boost gauge line and shit. So after this I know i'd have to get a new motor so I started
trawling forums and shit and ebay for a replacement. The turbo also appears to be a rb25det turbo.

Ended up finding a good second handy up here in Darwin for $800. This motor has previously made 240rwkw @15 psi in a r32 that had injectors, tune and a kkr430 turbo. Very strong motor and came with a new enough brass button execedy race clutch or what ever.

So I have $300 for incidentals and new clamps and things like this. I'll grab some photo's tomorrow when we pull it out.

23-03-13, 07:39 PM
Cool, I always thought a VLT/R31 would be a good contender

23-03-13, 08:10 PM
Me too but I think the rb20 will struggle
None the less goodluck

23-03-13, 08:36 PM
Should be easy with those mods. Put up some pics!

23-03-13, 08:39 PM
I actually gave away two RB20's (missing turbo/injectors) a year ago. I couldnt even get $200 for them.

23-03-13, 08:52 PM
stock rb30 + vlt manifold + china t3/rb25 turbo = piss it in

23-03-13, 09:00 PM
stock rb30 + vlt manifold + china t3/rb25 turbo = piss it in
For sure, rb20 just don't seem to go anywhere

23-03-13, 09:42 PM
Well the motor thats going in it tomorrow/monday ran a healthy 238rwkw with simple mods.
From what i've read ^^ all be it alot of them are hard to understand with their lebo drawl and ulehs but a few people are running into the tens with 250rwkw.
Im just gonna put 18 psi through it on the stock rb25det turbo at the drags and see what happens. Will get the afr's and timing looked at so I can do some skids. The drags aren't open up here for another few months while it's the wet season.
Also found a mini spool for $50 with super awesome whine(bearings are farked apprently).

So $1050.

Also could probably find a pair of used street slicks for a carton of piss from a few blokes I know. I don't reckon it'll be too hard.

After i've blown the box up i'll be moving onto a manually shifted auto and a stall.

Lars, a bloke up here with a gay pink VLT ran an 11 with 200rwkws.




It does actually have the other 17 it's just got a nail in it. Treads are brand new and came with a brand new battery.

23-03-13, 10:08 PM
tyres are free, so spend as much as you want on them

PS the challenge is over so no chance of winning a black wooden dick or what ever the token prize was.
Good luck with it enjoy your self

23-03-13, 10:14 PM
More of a personal challenge then anything. Trying to get a few mates keen on buying Vls r31's and shit and having a bit of a comp but most of them are tight ass'. So at least sticking to a cheap guideline with hopefully achievable goals. After I've done the 13 in the budget ill start progressing with the car and making faster on the cheap. Wouldn't mind 280rwkws with an auto and street slicks and running consistent 10's - 11's and driving home with the bub and Missus.

23-03-13, 10:26 PM
I can't recall any Rb20 running 10's

13's you should shit in

23-03-13, 10:46 PM
What're the torque differences between an rb20 and rb30 at similar powers Does anybody know?

23-03-13, 11:18 PM
I would assume a fair bit as 50% bigger is a reasonable advantage, all other things being equal

24-03-13, 09:28 AM
it'll work. strip the fuck out of the car. You can pull 100kg from it if you are dedicated.

24-03-13, 10:01 AM
What do these things weigh? Are they a fair few kgs heavier then a 31 or 32?

24-03-13, 10:08 AM

24-03-13, 11:01 AM
That's surprising.

24-03-13, 11:14 AM
Would 4.11's sort out most of my lack of torque issues? From what I've researched I need a r31 pintara diff? Does the center swap into a 25 spline VL non turbo diff? Or do I need the whole rear end from a pintara?

24-03-13, 11:16 AM
lars is rb30, just make sure you drive the rb20 properly, most people hesitate but the only way to get a rb20 moving is to sit up ant 6-7200 rpm, they love that shit

24-03-13, 11:22 AM
Yup. I intend to keep it in power band.

24-03-13, 11:31 PM
That's surprising.

base model VLs are only ~1200kg
R31 is 1300-1500 depending on spec

Would 4.11's sort out most of my lack of torque issues? From what I've researched I need a r31 pintara diff? Does the center swap into a 25 spline VL non turbo diff? Or do I need the whole rear end from a pintara?

you need to put the crownwheel and pinion from a pintara diff into your housing

25-03-13, 07:12 AM
4:11's are ideal for a manual but auto runs out of legs too early.

25-03-13, 07:47 AM
So good I said it twice

25-03-13, 08:46 AM
Mate did manual rb20 into his r31 years ago with 4.11 gears still felt like it had no torque...even with better turbo and more boost really had to rev the fuck out of to make it fun daily.

25-03-13, 07:34 PM
Bit like putting an Sr20 in a Vn.... :)

25-03-13, 08:51 PM
Cool, looking forward to seeing some times

25-03-13, 09:28 PM
A ca18 would be an improvement in a VN.

25-03-13, 10:18 PM
Well old motor is out. Painted the engine bay cause race car. Removed aircon condenser and associated lines did this for two reasons. So the intercooler can actually sit above the curb line and stop getting molested by anything above 3 inches. And for weightloss. Cause I'm a a fat cunt. So less weight is cheap tenths of seconds. Will post pics tomorrow. Photobucket on iPhone is a faggot and not letting me do anything. Also had to go to bolt shop. Because two bolts held the gearbox on. The coil packs were missing 8 bolts between them. The dump pipe was missing 3 out of the 6 bolts that held it to the turbo. Aaaaanmmmdddd the turbo outlet has 1 bolt out of 3 holding it on :/. Awesome sauce.

Do these count to my budget? Cause it was 9.90$.

25-03-13, 11:46 PM
4:11's are ideal for a manual but auto runs out of legs too early.

stock auto RB20 has 4.6s, 4.11s would be fine with an auto lol

Mister Black
26-03-13, 04:16 PM
Leave missing bolts off, more weight saving...

26-03-13, 04:41 PM
Every man and rdyno has a bucket of spare left over bolts to use

26-03-13, 11:11 PM
Unfortunately the missing bolts mean that the gaskets on both hot sides of the turbo are fucked and had to be replaced. Half the fucking plugs have fallen on the exhaust and turbo and melted them together. The fuse box has most of the fuses melted together. It's a fucking wonder the thing even drove. Coil pack loom was fucked. Picking up a good r32 engine loom and a working vl fuse box plus loom on friday. today was spent replacing snapped manifold studs and bolts the awesome cunt who sold me the motor fucked some how.

27-03-13, 12:39 AM
Do gaskets count as part of the budget? And wiring looms? If so this will be over before it began. No one up here wants to part with free stuff and to get the thing going I need to replace shit. :\

27-03-13, 11:12 AM
Fix it! That's the idea! Don't buy shit.

27-03-13, 01:56 PM
IMO gaskets are a maintenance item and shouldn't be counted.

Wiring is a tough one, if you got the car/motor for fair market value and you later discovered it had damaged wiring then the cost of repair IMO would be maintenance related. If however, you got the car/motor for free because it had damaged wiring then it would be unfair to not include the cost of wiring repair (or alternatively assign market value to the free car/motor and absorb the cost of wiring repair into it).

LOL, enough of that. Good to see another active 13s for $1300 competitor.

27-03-13, 05:48 PM
It's the wiring that's already in the car. It's not something I just want to slap together, do a skid and fuck it then burn it. It's something after the 13's for 1300$ goal I wish to expand on. The car catching fire would definitely suck a wang. So trying to make it safe considering my little fella will be commuting in it as well as me.

27-03-13, 08:08 PM
Don't you guys in NT use gumtree leaves for gaskets anyways?

27-03-13, 08:25 PM
IMO any safety issues are free from the totals

28-03-13, 11:05 PM
I may have found an rb30det auto box, flex plate and high stall. The cost will be swapping my two exedy clutches and rb20det box. Do the vl auto's need the vl computer to talk to it for it to shift automatically and for overdrive or does it have it's own computer that just needs tacho and speed input? I'm assuming the auto with stall will help getting off the line to 60 feet a lot quicker. Also don't like my chances of the rb20det box holding up to some good launches on slicks. :\

28-03-13, 11:57 PM
There is no such thing as an rb30det
there is no such thing as an rb30det
there is no such thing as an rb30det
there is no such thing as an rb30det
there is no such thing as an rb30det

29-03-13, 01:27 AM
Sorry rb30et. Typo. Cheers for the helpfulness.

29-03-13, 06:57 AM
Rb20 won't break the 20 box, also the high stalk won't be as high with te rb20, and lastly imo manual will be quicker

29-03-13, 11:47 PM
Ok. So for future plans would the rb20 benefit from auto plus a stall for it. Or should I cut my losses after running a 13, sell all the shit and install rb30ET with auto gear?

30-03-13, 01:16 AM
30 is the way to go, single cammer all the way

after a quick search, maatouk's have gone 7.7 and 175mph with single cam head... so anyone that spends/wastes on a twin cam head is really only doing it for wank value / because they got upsold.

30-03-13, 11:12 AM
the quickest 4 cylender car in the world is in the 6's, therefore anyone running 7's or slower with more cylenders did it for wank value or they got upsold.

there is plenty of merit in a twin cam head, but for simplicities sake, I'd do what shifty said, just slap a dirty 30 in it, retain/find a factory rb30 loom, nistune, gt35 etc

30-03-13, 11:56 AM
Run 13, sell for peanuts, buy rb30e for peanut shells, go auto and turbo it with nistuned vg30 ecu. Just need to mount the cas on the cam gear

17-04-13, 02:08 AM
Ok will be getting back into this at the end of the week on my 7 days off. Haven't had much time to play with it as i swapped the use of my engine crane for a few weeks for some good straight bits off a doner VL to lift this from Todd River coon camp commo spec to something A bit nicer.

I want to remove a heap of shit off the motor. Can I remove all the vaccuum hoses and the like off the manifolds and cap off the ends? Will the car not run right if I do this? It's just got crap everywhere and I want to tidy it up a bit so it's easier to work on. Or should I just put everything back in it's stock position? I also have a free boost gauge coming from E-Z so will install that for extra awesomes.

17-04-13, 02:29 AM
Also would a GT30 with .76 exhaust housing be too big for an rb20? It's the 500hp rated ball bearing one.

Not for the $1300 phase but for after the 13's.

17-04-13, 05:25 AM
If you are sticking rb20 yeah I'd go that, is it not .63 rear?
I had gt3082r with .63 rear on my rb30 w
Had 16 psi at 3000rpm. You Should see that by 4000rpm surely and rev to 7000 as apposed to my 6200

17-04-13, 05:34 AM
Yeah rb20 will be fast enough with turbo plus other stuff. We are moving to harvey bay end of the year so gonna sell all our shit here when we move. Be easier to find a nicer example for a million cheaper and start again with a better base once there. It's advertised as a GT30 /76. I assumed this denoted a .76 rear wheel? I could probably be wrong. It's a ball bearing garrett that rated to 500hp at any rate. So whatever the Gt30 is.

17-04-13, 07:20 AM
I'ts got a .83 rear housing on it. Maybe too big? t3 flange and 4 bolt exhaust extternally gated.

17-04-13, 10:06 AM
Yeah will be a bit laggy, the 76 means 76mm front wheel

17-04-13, 10:14 AM
I ran a similar turbo on a 3.8 v6 and it was spot on, but with half the capacity you're going to be pretty laggy.

17-04-13, 11:20 AM
It is a race car. Whilst ringing its neck would it stay on boost? Say for a distance of 400meters?

17-04-13, 11:34 AM
Or would drive ability be completely out the window and should look for something better suited?

17-04-13, 11:50 AM
it's way too big mate.

17-04-13, 12:59 PM
Ok. So what would everyone do in this similar situation. Have a z32 AFM, spitfire coil packs, nistuned, GTR or possible 13bt injectors if the GTrs aren't big enough. The motor previously made 240rwkwish with kkr430, z32, splitfires coils, injectors and nistuned. Would like similar performance but with a better turbo.

17-04-13, 01:06 PM
Results were on 13psi.

17-04-13, 03:04 PM
TD06-20G is pretty much the be all and end all turbo for an RB20

17-04-13, 03:07 PM
your talking about later on as a street car? TD06-20G (think its the 20G) are a pretty good all round turbo to make decent power on an rb20

edit - beaten by thhaatttt much

17-04-13, 03:14 PM
Run 20 psi on the kkr

17-04-13, 03:15 PM
Didn't come with the KKR. Thats what the old setup ran.

17-04-13, 03:34 PM
Buy a kinguga (sp?) td06

17-04-13, 03:44 PM
like this?

17-04-13, 04:30 PM
exactly that yes.

23-04-13, 08:42 AM
I take it the manual and auto cross members arent the same? The motor is back in, however the mount when we pulled it out had it's own holes drilled into the chassis and the nut was impossible to tighten. Which is why when we pulled it out the gearbox wasn't in tight. If I get a manual gearbox cross member can I use the original mount holes? Or is redrilling what everyone else does? The gearbox does bolt to the cross member. Just the cross member doesn't bolt to the chassis without using the drilled holes the other bloke did.

23-04-13, 12:38 PM
Open research I have an auto crossmember that theyve tried to bolt to nothing. woo.

27-04-13, 02:16 AM
Okay, progress can start moving forward again. I've secured a manual x member in exchange for my auto one. Have monday - tuesday off so will have it running by tuesday arvo hopefully.

27-04-13, 06:37 AM
Was going to say, just weld plate on to reach the existing holes

27-04-13, 07:00 AM
Was tempted too. I had a few leads on several but didn't want to spend $20 on one. So came off good with a swap. Working till Monday morning anyway so not much was gonna happen.

27-04-13, 08:27 AM
Just noticed your signature. Best fucking song ever written.

27-04-13, 08:21 PM
I knew you were a good egg E-Z.

08-05-13, 10:44 PM
Ok so update. Rb20 VL is running.

However. I have bought an rb30et Calais today. Has 28 spline rear end and disc brakes, ally radiator, nigga tint, oil cooler, 17's that are same as what's on the rb20 VL, 3 inch exhaust etc. big front mount, auto, Garrett turbo. Just eats water when water is put in the radiator. Cost me pretty much Fark all. What would be the better base to run and then expand on? I'm thinking Calais with all its extra pimp and capacity and auto(good VL turbo original one) over the manual rb20. What's everyone's thoughts.

I can get hold of a Nissan rb30 out of a patrol for Knicks that runs sweet.

08-05-13, 11:02 PM
Are you talking for 13's for $1300 or for a car in general?

08-05-13, 11:36 PM
calais eats water in what manner?

08-05-13, 11:41 PM
As in cracked head.

Well for the 13's project and then to expand on it and get it to run faster for cheaper. I can scrap the rb20 VL as a few mates have expressed interest in all of it so I won't lose out on any cash or anything. I just want something I can daily to work every now and then and head to some street meets before we move in decemember and I sell it on. Trying to figure out the best possible plan. Have both cars with both variations of motor. Just trying to figure out best plan of attack. Both have pretty much same shit except Calais has the disc rear end and bigger diff.

08-05-13, 11:57 PM
you're way better off with the 3L one provided it's an easy fix

09-05-13, 12:08 AM
I can get hold of a low k rb30 tomorrow next to nothing. Simple out with the old in with the new.

09-05-13, 11:24 AM
Yes! Buy natro rb30, swap all the gear onto it, get a nistuned ecu and some injectors, decent turbo and make some decent power, mates rb30 r33 makes 480hp on unopened rb30e+t

That boost gauge up yet?

09-05-13, 12:21 PM
Not that I know of. The calais comes with a apexi EBC as well. Avc-r thing.

09-05-13, 01:07 PM
Calais ftw!

09-05-13, 07:34 PM
Yup. So actually made 2k on the VL with rb20 in it and got a beaut nissan rb30 out if a patrol as part of the deal as well. So operation Calais is going ahead. Total cost is $800 after I get the motor in and running.

09-05-13, 08:18 PM
injected rb30?
patrols have carbie versions, i think everything is transferable though

09-05-13, 09:08 PM
Injected one.

09-05-13, 09:11 PM
It come from a patrol but was injected. Might have been put in there.

09-05-13, 09:42 PM
Never mind. It's from a low k skyrice. Dunno where the fuck I got patrol motor from.

09-05-13, 11:19 PM
Also after putting a pic up on Facebook a friend posted up. It used to be his car. Has a 2800rpm stally but the jatco that's in it is fubar and needs a rebuild. Might find a good one on Calaisforums and go from there. Saw some cheap ones up there.

10-05-13, 06:13 AM

10-05-13, 09:21 AM
Yeah been looking there. Also the plot thickens. The gearbox that's in it had abut 3k spent on it a few years ago, is full manual with better shit in it. Just needs a freshen up. Also used to be in a good friend of mines VL that I used to drive around for ages because he had lost his Licence. So it might be worth getting that done but I reckon it'll go over budget.

10-05-13, 09:21 AM
I have a standard VL auto box here. I might throw that in with the new motor. See how fast it goes and then rebuild the good jatco.

10-05-13, 11:55 AM

10-05-13, 12:58 PM
try new fluid in the built box first, if that doesnt help run the stock box, and put the built box in when its fixed.

10-05-13, 02:15 PM
Upon closer inspection it also has a PWR tranny cooler. I put a new battery in it today and drove it down the drive way into the car port. Drives fine with no water in it. I'm thinking of just putting the head off the good motor onto this one to save some time and effort.

Some piccies.

http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/Ruffateddy/IMG_2763.jpg (http://s1093.photobucket.com/user/Ruffateddy/media/IMG_2763.jpg.html)

http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/Ruffateddy/IMG_2762.jpg (http://s1093.photobucket.com/user/Ruffateddy/media/IMG_2762.jpg.html)

http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/Ruffateddy/IMG_2761.jpg (http://s1093.photobucket.com/user/Ruffateddy/media/IMG_2761.jpg.html)

http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/Ruffateddy/IMG_2760.jpg (http://s1093.photobucket.com/user/Ruffateddy/media/IMG_2760.jpg.html)

http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/Ruffateddy/IMG_2759.jpg (http://s1093.photobucket.com/user/Ruffateddy/media/IMG_2759.jpg.html)

http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/Ruffateddy/IMG_2758.jpg (http://s1093.photobucket.com/user/Ruffateddy/media/IMG_2758.jpg.html)

http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/Ruffateddy/IMG_27571.jpg (http://s1093.photobucket.com/user/Ruffateddy/media/IMG_27571.jpg.html)

10-05-13, 02:16 PM
Will pull the good panels off the white vl before it goes to it's new home to make this one neater.

Also has the grill. it's just in the boot.

10-05-13, 03:57 PM
Engine swap is easier then a head swap, pull the gear box and motor together, swap them outside the car, then drop back in together. Saves alot of time

10-05-13, 03:58 PM
Or keep the new engine as a spare and buy a $50 head off ebay/Boostcruising/gumtree?

10-05-13, 05:16 PM
Yeah came to same conclusion. After a bit more research into the previous issues with the box I've been told has been dropping metal shavings in the oil. Still works from what I've been told. Just sheds shavings :/