Finished doing my H22A conversion into my 93 EG civic hatch about 3 weeks ago and thought i would do a write up,i learnt alot from the swap..
Parts i Used/replaced:
Hasport mounting kit
Hasport stage 2 drive shafts
JDM h22a engine and gearbox
Walbro gss341 intake fuel pump
custom built clutch by Direct clutch
Davies craig 12 inch fan
Custom built radiator
Replaced: valve cover gasket,filters,water pump,timing belt,intake manifold gasket,exhaust manifold gasket,balance shafts belt,sump gasket,spark plugs,spark plug tube gaskets,all oils,fluids ect.
1st remove bonnet,front fenders,front bar,front suspension,radiator,battery,drive shafts,brakes,air con(if applicable).Basically everything surrounding the engine/gearbox.Now very important...mark every electrical connector before removal mark them with tape and a marker both ends of the connection(on the engine side of the harness and the ecu side of the harness).Once all the brackets,pumps are removed get your engine crane and losely support the engine.Remove the mounts and take the weight with the crane.Now its out with the old and in with the new..
Since your engine is out it probly wouldnt be a bad idea to respray the engine bay,i sprayed mine black..,if however u dont do this a quick clean would be sufficent. Remove your complete exhaust system due to the prelude headers being alot longer then the original ones,so the whole exhaust needs to come off and replaced with a decent exhaust!. Now with the hasport mounting kit it requires you to cut off the drivers side gearbox mount,below your suspension tower.Also if you want to keep power steering you have to cut a scollap out near your passenger head light,or use a 97 up pump n bracket from a lude.I Installed the Hasport rear mount bracket before putting the engine in.Alot easier this way,I also jacked the car right up and moved the car onto the engine when installing,alot easier to line up the mounts this way.Once all the mounts have lined up and are losely bolted into place,leave that for now and start with the wiring.. I used my standard civic engine harness and adapted it to the prelude engine. Had to extend alternator power wire/change injector clips and extend injector wires.Now very important! if you use the standard H22A peak n hold injectors u MUST use the injector resistor box this must be wired into the system there should be 4 coloured wires and 4 black wires on your h22a injector clips..the four coloured wires join to the original injector coloured wires in the civic engine harness.So solder them together,Now the four black wires from the injector clips go together with the four wires coming from the injector resistor box,doesnt matter which ones.once thats all sorted find a 12v IGNITION feed and tap the red wire from the resistor box into that,extend knock sensor wires,add 3 wires for O2 sensor,add wires for EGR lift sensor and soleniod system.Also with your reverse light selector in your box i used the civic one out of my d15b vtec gear box and used that on the h22a box,works fine there exactly the same.I also used the civic slave cyclinder due to clearance issues,this also is a straight bolt swap,only needing one hole to be drilled in the bracket to fit.
O2 sensor -add 3 wires to O2 sensor and follow o2 wires and change to Prelude O2 sensor connector. And wire the following,it also depends what model civic you have.
WHT - WHT/RED wire goes to D14 which is O2 Sensor Input
BLK - ORG/BLK wire goes to A6, which is Heater Control
GRN - GRN/WHT wire goes to D22 which is Sensor Ground
BLK - YEL/BLK wire goes to A25 which is Sensor voltage (you can also splice into the power junction harness at the driver side shock tower harness)
There will be two available slots at the shock tower harness. You just need to simply salvage a male and female pin from an unused plug, and add the pins to the connector for the factory look.
- Add one wire from the VTEC Solenoid (grn/wht wire) to the A4 pinout at the ECU. Add the pin to the shock tower harness, and female pin at the female shock tower connector.
- Add one wire from the VTEC Oil pressure sensor (blk/blu wire) to the D6 pinout, and the other wire which is VTEC oil pressure ground. Simply splice (while soldering!) this to the thermostat ground on the engine harness.
Knock sensor wiring: (mounted at the rear of the engine near the cylinder head) Do the same for the male/female pins at the shock tower harness. There will be one available slot for this. Wire this from the KS to the D3 pinout (for OBD1)
Air Intake Bypass solenoid (secondary butterflies)
- Sensor voltage to the A25 pinout (or splice into the Yel/Blk wire connector at the driver shock tower harness.
- ECU Signal leading to A17 pinout on ECU
EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) System:
- EGR lift valve solenoid - sensor voltage (A25 pinout) & ECU signal to A11
- EGR lift sensor - sensor voltage (A25 pinout), ground (D22 pinout) & ECU sensor signal to D12
Note: EGR is only to be wired up if you also use a P13 ECU. If you use a P28, P72, etc, then the ECU does not look for the EGR and therefore the sensor will be useless. So don't waste your time if you use another ECU.
Your engine harness is ready to be installed on your engine.. it would probably be alot easier putting the harness on the engine out of the car however getting the right wire lengths for the extending wires that were needed was alot easier when the engine was in the car.Well the engine is in,harness is on,now its time for the gear shifter fun!
Because civic and tegs use bars to shift gears and preludes use cables you have to do abit of cutting..Ive got pictures of it all if anyone needs info ect.Basically your are cutting a larger hole for the prelude shifter assembly where your older one was.Also another critical cut that needs to be done is the 2inch by 3inch hole fpr the cables to go through inot the cabin.this must be spot on,or you will suffer bad shifting problems in some gears.This hole is cut directly below your cd player mount on the floor.Now i fed the cables from the engine to the cabin,installed the cables on the box,then fed them into the cabin joined them to the shifter assembly,drilled my holes to bolt it down and your done... Now would be a great time to Torque up the mounts to Hapsort specs,check over all bolts ect,just a general check over.
Now with the scallop for your power steering pump,that should be cut now,make sure you cover the engine very well,you dont want metal flying over your new install.Once thats cut install your alternator,power steering pump,power steering bottle,all the brackets ect.Install your radiator and fan,fill up your fluids if you havnt done so,bleed your brakes and clutch.
Now with the fuel lines i suggest you get a hose place to fab one up,i did a bit of fab work to make the original prelude fuel line from fuel rail to filter fit.With the intake system my original K and N pipe and pod fitted to new engine,which was good.now install your headers(torque to specs).Now with the Hasport drive shafts the driver side shaft is a complete assembly,but the passenger side you need to use the h22a intermediate shaft and then the hasport shaft fits straight into that...Now that the engine is in,all the wiring is done its time to install your suspension and brakes and put the car back on the ground. Now i STRONGLY recommend up grading your suspension and brakes,im using koni full adjustable shocks all round and integra super low kings up front and heavy duty custom king springs in the rear( car is damn low,tyres bottomed out with standard weight springs).I also have got sir-g intergra rear disks and calipers on the back(drum to disk conversion was done)Now with the height issue on hand, on 17's my sump/headers height is ok,however on 14's its stupid,So i suggest you think about your tyre/rim selection with the difference in ground clearance your going to have with the new engine compared to the old one. Hook up the ecu to the main harness and start her up!!! now if your check eninge light comes on turn it off and check which code its throwing out.this can be done by using the 2 wire connector thats under your glove box closest to the door in the rubber housing.simply get a piece of wire and join the two pin connector to make a connection,turn your key on but do not start...Now one large flash equals 10..and small flash's mean one.Search the net for this,you will find all the codes and what the are ect.Now also make sure all your vacuum lines are hooked up!! All you need now is to get a custom exhaust made and get it engineered!.
AFTER THE SWAP:
the difference is amazing the torque is great,vtec kicks in soo hard in such a light car.With my suspension mods i havent noticed one bit of difference in handling in the dry but in the wet its a bit of a ice rink on the roads.quarter mile times.. well i only have done 2 runs in mine soo far... best was 14.2 at 101mile on shitty 175/65r14 tyres.thats only with 2.5inch exhuast,hi flow cat,and intake..full interior and subs,so theres heaps of room for improvement..and ALOT more room for mods..
All up with all the parts needed/replaced,engine,shipping costs,full exhaust,mod plated..It cost me $5545 on the road.
I think ive covered everything??