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Thread: Paint your car with a roller!?

  1. #1
    Registered User Gazilla's Avatar
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    Paint your car with a roller!?

    I yoinked this from another forum which linked back to HERE.
    here's how i painted my car for about $50, it's actually very easy and the results are amazing. First off, get a can of tremclad real orange (or what ever color u want) in the can, not spray, yes tremclad, it is a acrylic/enamel paint which is very durable. next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow it to be painted over bare metal. next, after prepping the car get a small 4" professional FOAM rollers, it's tiny and has one end rounded off, and the other cut straight, and is a very high density foam. u also need a jug of mineral spirits to thin the paint. The thing i really like about this is that there's no mess, no tapeing the whole car, just key areas, and u can do it in your garage, since your not spraying there is virtually no dust in the air, just clean your garage first, also it does'nt really smell at all, dries overnight and it super tough paint. also it you decide to paint the car professionally later, just prep and paint, there's no need to strip the tremclad. i have done this to a few cars, and i can say it works amazing, u just have to be paitient. next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker. get out the roller and paint away, don't get the paint shaked when u buy it, enamel is stirred, otherwise you'll have bubbles in the paint for a week!!! after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand. i painted the charger using a can since your not spraying the car u use all the paint and not spray 50% in the air, use progressivly finer sand paper each time. it's not really that much work, cause u can stop and start any time, u can do just a door, or the hood, ect. do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat, wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u, depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing. laugh if you want, but for $50 ($30 for paint, about $20 for rollers, sand paper, ect...) it really looks good. also you can do these steps overnight, paint one evening and by morning u can wet sand. i have personally done alot of painting, mostly single stage acrylic enamel, and i've sprayed several cars in my garage with really good professional results, just it stinks, it's a real pain to do, easy to make a mistake, messy, and expensive. The tremclad is awesome paint, the "real orange" is an amazing hemi orange, and almost looks like it has some perl in the sun, awesome color right out of the can. I used this technique on my 1974 beetle also, here are the results:

    the car before:

    another after pic:

    here is a car i sprayed (71 beetle, midnight blue metalic):

    here is the car before (71 beetle):


    here's a few pics of the charger done:



    well that's my 2 cents worth, sorry for the long post. i was borred lol
    i painted the orange beetle in 1999, and it still looks like the day i painted it, the 71 blue beetle i painted in 2000, and built the car for my dad, i used the same paint on my charger, maybe one day i'll spring for a good paint job, prepping is 90% of the work, stripping the car, sanding, ect.....painting is overrated!!!
    So if you have TIME, then i'd say go for it, the worst that could happen is that it does'nt turn out and your out $50, but if your paitient, and expriement with lets say just the trunk pannel and if you like it do the whole car, if not just get it done by someone else for $4000. i don't know about you guys, but i would rather spend the $4000 on other parts like getting the mechanics sorted out and new chrome, cause when u have really nice paint and crappy bumpers, door handles it just sticks out more.
    If looks could kill you'd have eyes like cyanide...

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    Dr Zoidberg - Homeowner THE ASH's Avatar
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    Hrm, I do own a datsun...
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim View Post
    at the last place there was a few ocassions where you'd go into the toilets (office environment mind you) and there'd be a length of brown cable in front of the shitter. A big chocolate slug looking up at you.
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    so what's the trade name in australia for tremclad?

    sounds interesting.... anyone going to paint their car soon?

  4. #4
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    I'd be more interested in a cheap method of getting good results without having to sand the damn thing...LOL
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  5. #5
    Dr Zoidberg - Homeowner THE ASH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by InsaneAsylum
    so what's the trade name in australia for tremclad?

    sounds interesting.... anyone going to paint their car soon?
    I don't think that really matters, you could probably do it with any enamel.

    I'm thinking Tin 0 Killrust on Datsun

    edit: that's it, I'm dumb enough to try this. I'll buy a tin of something tomorrow & report back. If you can do a house nicely surely with the right paint a car ain't hard. It is only a datsun. Supercheap Monza Red here I come!
    Last edited by THE ASH; 01-02-06 at 10:26 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim View Post
    at the last place there was a few ocassions where you'd go into the toilets (office environment mind you) and there'd be a length of brown cable in front of the shitter. A big chocolate slug looking up at you.
    XLII - 101010 - 2A

  6. #6
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    kill rust is the home handy man version, its like using a bandaid for a cut wrist..

    you need por15 for any chance of stopping a rust from datsuning
    Jason Broadhurst

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  7. #7
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    a mate of mines old man painted a car with house paint, heated it up on the stove so it was warm when applied and dried out very nicely for a roller job!! LOL
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  8. #8
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    I think the whole point of spray painting is that it gives a thin but even coat, meaning you don't have to sand so much back off. You can paint a car with a brush and as long as you are happy to spend the next 4 weeks hand sanding the lumps off, it too will look just fine.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ash H
    I don't think that really matters, you could probably do it with any enamel.

    I'm thinking Tin 0 Killrust on Datsun

    edit: that's it, I'm dumb enough to try this. I'll buy a tin of something tomorrow & report back. If you can do a house nicely surely with the right paint a car ain't hard. It is only a datsun. Supercheap Monza Red here I come!
    Dude before you get too excited;

    1. I hope it's not a good car you want to keep forever
    2. House paint will fade/chalk much faster than auto paint
    3. Killrust has a primer and a topcoat. Most people make the mistake of not using the primer. The topcoat doesn't provide great rust protection when used by itself.
    4. Be very careful using a foam roller - most of them with cause the paint to foam when rolling and leave you with lots of little craters in the finish. A 5mm mohair nap roller could giver better results.
    5. What's wrong with a brush? A good synthetic brush might be easier to use especially if you thin the paint out and dip the brush in turps every now and again to stop it paint building up.
    6. It's not going to get very glossy (ie auto finish gloss with sharp DOI) so you'll have to polish it well to look OK.

    But hell if the car looks shit already it's worth a try! I bet you'll get a much better finish than the $2 spray can jobs kicking around.
    A simple man with complex tastes.

  10. #10
    Registered User Gazilla's Avatar
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    Sanding is evil, end of story.
    If looks could kill you'd have eyes like cyanide...

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  11. #11
    Dr Zoidberg - Homeowner THE ASH's Avatar
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    1. It's a datsun
    2. was probably going to use the el-cheapo auto paint at supercheap
    3. Killrust was kinda a datsun=rust joke, see above
    4. yeah, mohair sounds dear hey - this is a datsun
    5. Probably try a brush too
    6. it's a datsun

    Yes it looks shit already, was probably just going to do a guard to see what happens. With the temp up here I probably won't need thinners by the way they are talking, if it's balls I'll go back to the spraying $200 of Autothane idea.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim View Post
    at the last place there was a few ocassions where you'd go into the toilets (office environment mind you) and there'd be a length of brown cable in front of the shitter. A big chocolate slug looking up at you.
    XLII - 101010 - 2A

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    I know it's a datto - but some people have very nice dattos! Although maybe not many show condition 120ys!

    Mohair isn't that expensive - the thing to look for is nap length (std measurement of all roller sleeves is length of fibre on roller). A 5mm nap is one of the shortest - go too long and you'll see more roller texture. And it's not the same quality mohair as a jumper!

    Be careful will auto paint as it's designed to be sprayed - and thus will dry pretty fast (faster still in hot weather). I wouldn't try roller/brushing acrylic lacquers - they dry much too fast to use. Same goes with thinners - some are "fast" and some are "slow" - you want the slowest thinners you can find that's compatible with the paint you're using.

    Enamel House paint/Kill Rust works better because it takes much longer to dry, and is based on turps or mineral spirits - giving you enough time for the paint to go on and flow out properly before drying. The guy above uses house paint for exactly that reason.

    Maybe try to find some clear enamel as well - it'll give better gloss and a nicer finish when used over the top of your base coat, but most will yellow over time so pick a colour that's compatible (like a red) - Estapol Exterior Gloss may be worth a punt if you can get it cheap!

    Just trying to help you get a good finish - I have lost a couple of dattos to rust before!
    A simple man with complex tastes.

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    holy shit wtf! that looks awesome

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    Registered Abuser DROOPZ's Avatar
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    My camaro has been sprayed with Autothane CV each time. Comes out bloody great.

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    That's my life hamish's Avatar
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    I reckon you'd get much better results with one of those airless sprayguns you can get in the big hardware stores, they cost about $150 from memory, and will spray without needing a compressor. I reckon you could get a pretty good result using 'solid' colours (wouldn't want to risk trying a metallic)
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    Dr Zoidberg - Homeowner THE ASH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DROOPZ
    My camaro has been sprayed with Autothane CV each time. Comes out bloody great.

    yeah, the amount of sanding involved has made me rethink the roller/brush idea....
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim View Post
    at the last place there was a few ocassions where you'd go into the toilets (office environment mind you) and there'd be a length of brown cable in front of the shitter. A big chocolate slug looking up at you.
    XLII - 101010 - 2A

  17. #17
    dangerous fugitive
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    I thought for sure I was going to see pics of the charger, as I was recently working on a couple of rust spots at the bottom of the door, in near 40 degree heat, when Melbourne weather did it's ever consistent thing and started to rain, with barely a hint of cloud in yonder sky. So out came a brush, on went the killrust, and so it was put under what little cover I had left since there's a project car (the owner of which I'm going to kill if he fucks me around for another month with it) sitting stillborn in the shed.

    Killrust 'works' but it fades fairly quickly in the sun. it doesn't look crash hot, but experience suggests the fading has no bearing on it's ability to protect from oxidative deterioration of the metal itself.

    Anyone noticed that in the past 10-15 years or so, car paint is fucked in no time if you leave the car in the rain/sun. It didn't used to be like that in the years previous. I'm wondering if it's the sheer increase in crap in the air from much more cars, or is it something specifically in unleaded petrol (which is now of course the mainstay)?

    If the car is only going to be kept for a few years, enamel works well enough. It doesn't seem to last years though, and isn't 'up' for cutting and polishing like acrylic (my experience only, haven't got enough to know for sure)

    John

    edit - I haven't tried this but a friend of mine swears by mixing around 10% clear into the top coat of any car he sprays, then 30, then 50 then 100% clear. It seems to come out a lot more glossy and resists fade, and also gives you around 3-4 times the amt of polishes before it's getting thin.
    Last edited by jmac; 01-02-06 at 03:16 PM.

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    Get your azz to mars bugle's Avatar
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    heh yeah it doesn't end up losing 50% in the air instead you've gotta sand the 50% of it off to get it smooth.
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    Pimpin it 70s limo style! 08ESE's Avatar
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    looks a bit dull along t6he sides on most of those pix

    im not convinced
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    Dr Zoidberg - Homeowner THE ASH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DROOPZ
    My camaro has been sprayed with Autothane CV each time. Comes out bloody great.

    Hey, how long does Autothane last? My mate's ute got done a year ago & still looks schmicko
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim View Post
    at the last place there was a few ocassions where you'd go into the toilets (office environment mind you) and there'd be a length of brown cable in front of the shitter. A big chocolate slug looking up at you.
    XLII - 101010 - 2A

  21. #21
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    Didn't read it, but this is a jeopardy question isn't it....

    I know the answer:

    "What is a Way to make your car look shit?"
    Last edited by The Pupat; 01-02-06 at 07:41 PM.

  22. #22
    Fists with your toes Sturmovik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmac
    I thought for sure I was going to see pics of the charger, as I was recently working on a couple of rust spots at the bottom of the door, in near 40 degree heat, when Melbourne weather did it's ever consistent thing and started to rain, with barely a hint of cloud in yonder sky. So out came a brush, on went the killrust, and so it was put under what little cover I had left since there's a project car (the owner of which I'm going to kill if he fucks me around for another month with it) sitting stillborn in the shed.

    Killrust 'works' but it fades fairly quickly in the sun. it doesn't look crash hot, but experience suggests the fading has no bearing on it's ability to protect from oxidative deterioration of the metal itself.

    Anyone noticed that in the past 10-15 years or so, car paint is fucked in no time if you leave the car in the rain/sun. It didn't used to be like that in the years previous. I'm wondering if it's the sheer increase in crap in the air from much more cars, or is it something specifically in unleaded petrol (which is now of course the mainstay)?

    If the car is only going to be kept for a few years, enamel works well enough. It doesn't seem to last years though, and isn't 'up' for cutting and polishing like acrylic (my experience only, haven't got enough to know for sure)

    John

    edit - I haven't tried this but a friend of mine swears by mixing around 10% clear into the top coat of any car he sprays, then 30, then 50 then 100% clear. It seems to come out a lot more glossy and resists fade, and also gives you around 3-4 times the amt of polishes before it's getting thin.

    I think its the water based paint car companies use, and clear coat metallics.

    Older paints were just a solid colour and could be just rubbed back when faded and look new.

  23. #23
    Surf's Up! bigmuz's Avatar
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    Okay, problems with enamel:

    Dries slowly- dust and humidity changes are a huge problem
    Not very hard
    Not very uv resistant
    Stinks
    Not very buffable
    Not very scratch resistant.
    Not cheap enough

    So you can add rocket, which is an isocyanate hardener/ accelerator. then you are breathing 2pack nasties for none of the benefit, and nearly as much $.

    Forget it. Forget acrylic too. Debeers series 4000 is cheap enough and awesome performance. Goes on flat, pretty easy to paint, buffs unreal, hard as nails and still tough. About $40 a litre including hardener and thinners, and you only use maybe 4 litres to do a car absolute maximum. Use a proper mask and don't get it on your skin. Isos kill.

    But using enamel with no hardener is futile. You may get it to look good now but it willf ade in no time, and you can't buff it back with much success, and wait till you have to try and sand that sticky shit off later. You WILL regret using enamel.
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  24. #24
    freedom is not free willej's Avatar
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    I am surprised, the results seem quite good - but with enough sanding any thing would.

    If anyone cares

    I painted a mk1 escort 4 door of mine in the garage with a roller and hand brush straight over the existing rust / paint. No sanding, no disassembly of car. Painted it gloss white enamel, looked quite good from a distance, was crater ville up close. Did the job though...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sturmovik
    I think its the water based paint car companies use, and clear coat metallics.

    Older paints were just a solid colour and could be just rubbed back when faded and look new.
    It's got nothing to do with whether the paint is water-based or not - once dry/cured the film is pretty much the same.

    Fading is more to with the chemistry of the organic pigments used in bright/deep colours - and the amount of UV absorbers in the clear coats. UV breaks down organic pigments (the colour of pigments is due to chromophore groups - usually containing some double bonds that are attacked by UV energy).

    For inorganic pigments fading is less common, but for all paints there is competing effect of "chalking" where the binder (ie alkyd in enamels, polyurethane in 2-pack) breaks down under UV - mainly starts at binder: pigment interfaces when free radicals are formed. The end result is a powdery/loosely bound surface that comes off with polishing.

    Metallic pigments (like aluminium) generally have good durability, however the tint used to create metallic colours is mainly based on organic pigments.

    The reason Killrust works is due to it's anticorrosive pigments (like zinc phosphate), the colouring has no bearing on the performance of these pigments.
    A simple man with complex tastes.

  26. #26
    Registered User AlexinPerth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz
    Okay, problems with enamel:
    I used enamel to paint a mate's car once (he bought the paint - I would have got acrylic).

    Never again.

    Alex.

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