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Thread: Rodeo Turbodiesel Problem

  1. #61
    Registered User samdumbert's Avatar
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    I know your not going to worry about it now but it sounds like the block needs to be line bored.

  2. #62
    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    Pretty sure it was line bored when the last shitbox crank went in.

    I hooked him up with a cheap 4JG2 with intercooler anyway. Hopefully that will fix the failboat.
    David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz View Post
    You can't polish a turd but you can put 600hp in it and laugh your fucking arse off coming past someone sideways at Powercruise.

  3. #63
    Registered User TK's Avatar
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    Fuck me, bad karma on that motor.

    Boat anchor & replace with SH FTW.

  4. #64
    Loving teh titties.. carcrazy's Avatar
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    What a complete bastard... Could it be a balance thing? Maybe pistons / rods are out of balance? Harmonic balancer not working properly.

    Id be close to burning the bloody thing.. Have you checked out a import / wrecker replacement motor?
    Quote Originally Posted by Einstein
    The definition of insanity is repeating the same action and expecting a different result

  5. #65
    Registered User Asteroid's Avatar
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    Wow, worst luck ever.

  6. #66
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    Yeah, we WADED the other Rodeo through some of the Brisbane flooding to pick up a 4JG2T from the import place on Friday. We were unable to reach the joint Thursday night as there was apparently 1.5 ish metres of water over the access road. They'd never seen that before apparently. Anyway, this is apparently an enlarged update version of the original motor. Came out of a Mu, has timing belt instead of gears, is intercooled, and uses a larger ballbearing turbo. It is also 3.1 Litres instead of 2.8. Oh and apparently it is indirect injection rather than direct, which while quieter (FTW) may mean that I have to get used to allowing the glow plugs to do their thing. In nearly 15 years of driving these two Rodeos, I can only recall one occasion where we actually needed the glow plugs - and that was parked in the carpark all day at Thredbo.

    Anyway, we have ubeaut 2nd handy home - wondering how many compatibility issues there are. The other thing is that we need to address the clutch - the plate itself would prolly give us a few more tens of thousands of kays, but the throw out bearing appears reasonably shot - and they are apparently only available in a clutch kit. MEH. The other issue is we need to extract the box and work out why it was jumping out of 2nd and 4th, and why the transfer box was jumping out of L4. Think we bent something the last time we reinstalled the motor. Oh and while we were getting slightly lost in Brisbane, we stumbled across Hare and Forbes Equipment sales and I bought an Engine Leveller for the engine crane. Will look forward to trying it out when installing the new motor.

    Oh, and we did have the old block closed and honed on the main bearings the last time we replaced a broken crank. The old motor is causing a fair bit of head scratching, I can tell you.
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
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  7. #67
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    Well we spent about 3 hours of my birthday yesterday on investigations into the new engine. Firstly, it seems this engine had fallen into or been bumped by something on the nose as the water pump pulley was grinding into the plastic timing belt cover. Turns out that the flange that the pulley bolts to was cracked away from the boss back toward the engine. So the pulley was about 0.5 to 1.0 mm closer to the cover than it should be. Pulled the water pumps off both engines and tried swapping. Looks like they are identical where it matters, so have temporarily got the 4JB1 pump sitting on the 4JG2. Will install properly before we redo the timing belt. We see that the 4JG2 has a different injection pump to go with the different injectors and the different hard lines between them. So far, it seems that the major difference to affect us is that the plugs for the injector pump of the 4JB1 are all represented on the 4JG2, but there is an extra plug with something like three or four wires. This ultimately seems to end up in some sort of module that sits over the top of the throttle shaft. My current thoughts on this are that it could be a throttle position sensor or something to do with Cruise Control. I really wonder if this is some you beaut thingamijig that is we can totally do without. I suspect we will be talking to our injection pump dude soon to see what is what. We are toying with running without the wires plugged into anything, getting whatever it is they plug into, or possibly swapping the pumps over.

    We don't actually know how different they might be in the way they deliver and how they are controlled. On one hand, they are substantially the same engine underneath, but on the other the combustion is changed from direct to indirect injection, the capacity is increased, the turbo is larger and the newer engine is intercooled. Also the newer engine has Exhaust Gas Recirculation fitted.

    There is also some other thingy that looks like it may be either vacuum or boost referenced, that is bent and seems to hook into something we cannot see - possibly broken off. This is located down lower on the pump.

    We are leaning strongly towards deleting the EGR, it looks to be an additional complicated, bulky thing that we doubt strongly will have any real benefit. It appears we can do this by swapping the inlet manifolds and unbolting and blanking off the flange on the exhaust manifold that supplies the exhaust gas. Or we could probably just blank off the inlet manifold as well. Anyone who thinks this is a bad idea should holler loudly and with a good convincing reason, and pure legality doesn't count. The Jury seems to have come back on this one ten or twenty years ago, and the mandated thing that may or may not have worked when the engine was new seems to be useless by the time the motor is over 50000 km. So anyone with startling evidence that I shouldn't consign it to the bin should speak up soon, please.

    The other interesting point was that I thought we should check clutch compatibility, so I pulled the pressure plate and clutch plate off. Surprise, the clutch plate is a larger diameter, by about 10mm. But the outer diameter of the pressure plates and flywheels are all the same. The clutch plate and the workings of the pressure plate fit into a recess in the flywheel. The inner diameter of this recess is different from one flywheel to the other. So it appears likely that i can run either flywheel, but wouldn't be able to put the Mu clutch into the Rodeo flywheel. I think it would be possible to run the Rodeo clutch on the Mu flywheel with either of the pressure plates, though I don't think we will be experimenting with that as I think we are at the point of replacing the complete clutch kit, with my current leaning being towards using the Mu setup - cost permitting. ie if one is around 200bux and the other is 1000, I will probably go with the cheapy. The throw out bearing being the crucial thing here, its the reason we need to replace the clutch at all. If they are different on the Mu, then we probably have to go with the Rodeo setup. The throwout is only available as part of a clutch kit the last time we checked.

    Moving back in the car, the gearbox had been jumping out of 2nd and 4th, and the transfer case was jumping out of 4Low, so we dropped the box out yesterday. We seem to have bent something the last time we reinstalled the motor. Plus the gearbox to crossmember mount is stuffed, so we will clean er up and have a look for obvious problems to see if we can't rectify that.

    Other issues off the top of my head - We will need to make a hole in the bonnet to allow air into the intercooler, and we are going to have to bodge an exhaust setup or run loud to get it down to Al's so he can stick a new flange on the dump pipe. The turbo seems to be the same series as the Mazda 2.5l turbo that we adapted onto the old motor, but slightly different in the flange. Shape of the flange looks the same but the size seems smaller on the Mu Turbo.

    No pics yet, but some may be on the way.

    Edit: Oh yeah any links or simple instructions on timing these machines with a timing belt rather than timing gears?
    Last edited by jzx83; 28-05-09 at 07:54 AM.
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
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  8. #68
    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    Mark the timing belt and pulleys with white paint pen and then transfer the marks from old belt to new.

    If it has EGR it probably has a throttle plate after the intercooler that is vac controlled. Piss all that ghey egr shit off, it'll all be blocked up by now anyway.
    David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz View Post
    You can't polish a turd but you can put 600hp in it and laugh your fucking arse off coming past someone sideways at Powercruise.

  9. #69
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    Well did the parts chasing bit yesterday arvo then went in to work to learn about render - now I am merely mildly confused about render rather than almost completely ignorant.

    So we got a timing belt, the idler/tensioner bearings look to be fine - they just had a bit of surface rust on them from the pressure washing in the import process. Importantly, this donk was not only seen here in import Mus, but also in Jackaroos, so the parts are hopefully less hideously expensive and hard to get than we might have feared.

    Having said that, when it came to getting a new clutch, we were faced with the choice of using either a Rodeo clutch kit and putting it onto either flywheel, or getting the Mu/Jackaroo clutch which would only work on the Mu flywheel. So the Rodeo is a smidge over 200, and the Mu was 580. The difference between them was 240mm diameter for Rodeo and 250mm diameter for Mu. Since we think our old donk may have been making similar power to the Mu engine anyway, we decided to take a punt on the original. Time will tell if that was a good idea or not. The car has nearly worn out the second clutch plate ever installed at 385000 km, but that one went in at a little over 200000km and replaced one that really didn't need replacing. Having bought the new plate and opened up the hole to put a new one in, we did so, but if we hadn't gone in in the first place it would have had a fair bit more life in it.

    We had the throw out bearing as part of the clutch kit, we then got a rear main oil seal and spigot bearing from our mates at the bearing supply place.

    While we were in town, we had a chat with the diesel pump guys that have looked after us in the past. From the sound of it they are yet to feel the effects of the Recession. They said if they closed the order book today, they would still be working solidly until July. Hope the injectors and pump are ok in this donk then. Anyway, we were querying the differences in wiring between the two engines. At the back of the 4JB1T pump, there is a solenoid sitting on top of the bit that has the four pipes that supply the injectors. This is common to both pumps and is the fuel cut off solenoid. So far so good. There is also a two wire thing screwed into the side of the pumps, tucked in between the pump and the engine block. This is common to both, and we didn't enquire as to its function. Where they are different is that the fuel spill back (the unused fuel that flows back from the injectors) line comes back to the injector pump to a similar point on both pumps. Now on the Mu pump, it is basically just a plumbing style junction, but on the Rodeo it is actually a powered item. Turns out that this thing is using pump pressure and a signal from the electrics to control advance. Kind of similar to vacuum advance on a petrol. One of them has it, one doesn't. So don't worry about the redundant wire in the engine bay. Cool. The Mu engine does something else to control its advance.

    There were two other things that were different on the Mu pump. One was a three wire potentiometer sitting over and hooked to the throttle shaft. It actually shrouds the boost reference diaphragm. This is apparently helping to control the EGR system, which is well on its way to being history, so Me No Care. Car didn't have it. Car still doesn't have it.

    The second odd ball thing was that there is a side shoot of the heater plumbing that goes down to a throttle shaft looking thing, down low on the pump. This turns out to be a cold start advance limiting device. Basically, there is a wax pellet inside that when solid restricts the range of advance of the pump. Once some warm water has gone through and melted the wax, a lever inside is able to move which then allows the pump to advance in its normal full range. Diesel guy said to take it off unless we were going to the snow. Unlikely in this vehicle Methinks, and he even gave us a blanking plate to blank it off. Basically, he said there was no real harm in leaving it there, except that it will be the first place to leak (diesel, coolant, oil - I wasn't clear on that one) and for us it will serve no useful purpose so may as well remove it.

    In other matters, Gary had a look at the gear selection stuff yesterday and stripped down the linkage for the gearbox, looked it over, no obvious failures, and put it back together. The transfer case stuff appears to be mostly internal to the case and no obvious faults there either. So we will put them back and see what happens. I then spent close to an hour on the Karcher cleaning the box. V farken dirty. I also cleaned up some other underbody stuff that was V farken dirty. No great surprise I guess.

    Anyway, that is where we are this cool morning. With motivation and MSPaint I may get a pic or two on here to show the differences in the pumps.

    Later.
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
    MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
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  10. #70
    loves the Cressy
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    Oh the one thing we did forget to ask the diesel guy was how to use the real timing marks to time the sucker, the timing gear setup is pretty simple once you know how to do it, but just haven't seen the belt setup at all.

    Oops, just remembered the downloaded thingy I got for the 4JB1 had both Belt and timing gear setups - I'll see if it is shown there.

    Anyone who wants to give a concise explanation is welcome to do so, of course.
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
    MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
    '66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
    '66 Jaguar S-Type 3.8 Auto Sedan
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  11. #71
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    Lightbulb How to Time Cambelt on 4JG2 Motor.

    Okay, so we have done the timing belt and it was pretty simple - the diesel guy told us how.

    Get crank to TDC on 1, put bolts through holes at approx 1.30 to 2 o'clock on the cam and pump drives and screw the bolts into the thread behind. Put belt on and arrange tensioners to suit. I moved the crank very slightly to allow the belt to slip on once the belt was already on the pump and the cam drives and on the fixed idler. Then slipped the tensioning idler into place, used a screwdriver to move it into tension and tightened the bolt. Pop the locking bolts out of the two pulleys and rock over TDC to ensure that no 4 rockers are rocking at TDC. Bolt the belt retaining plates back onto the pulleys and take it from there.

    Attached photos are one each of the lock bolts going in, and an MSPaint showing the location of the holes.

    Oh yeah, the injection pump will jump sideways, so its a good idea to get the bolt in before removing the old belt, but if you don't do this you will likely find that you need to move the pulley slightly to get the bolt to start. For the record, I used the 12mm bolts that came out of the water pump.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
    MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
    '66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
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  12. #72
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    In other news, I have taken the bathroom scales down and weighed the flywheel and clutch assemblies. Overall, both the Rodeo and Mu assemblies weighed 25.2kg, but this was arrived at by two different means. The Rodeo had a lighter pressure plate and a heavier flywheel, whereas the flywheel was 1.4kg lighter and the pressure plate 1.4kg heavier on the Mu. Since I am reluctant to change the overall mass, I will just put the Rodeo flywheel on to go with the new Rodeo Clutch assembly we got yesterday. If I wanted to (I don't) I could use the Mu flywheel with the Rodeo Clutch and have a lightened flywheel.

    Having lunch and a snooze now before getting back into it. Also need to modify the air con compressor mount to get it to work with the bracket for the intercooler. We have begun the process of changing over the inlet and exhaust manifolds.
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
    MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
    '66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
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  13. #73
    Registered User Asteroid's Avatar
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    My corolla diesel had a tps along with a whole bunch of other sensors and a fat loom running into a computer, all for that shitty EGR valve. All the Surf and Delica guys recommend blocking it with a plate behind the valve. Also that wax pellet did piss out diesel fuel when the seals went, though I had the whole pump resealed with viton seals.

  14. #74
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    Well work is over for another week as of tonight. This morning I went down to the shed at 6am and drilled and tapped the holes so that I could clock the compressor cover. Got that done just in time to piss off to work at 8.30am. Still need to sort out the mounting of the wastegate control.

    Oh and hybridise the Rodeo aircon compressor mount to work with the intercooler mount. Our compressor won't mate up to the (better made) mount that came on the new motor, but the other mount off the Rodeo will need two of the legs on it cut off to allow the intercooler mount to work in with the aircon mount. Might take photos if I am motivated. Don't hold your breath though. Will doubtless do a bit on this tomorrow, despite it being Gary's birthday. Doubt if we will get it going though.
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
    MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
    '66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
    '66 Jaguar S-Type 3.8 Auto Sedan
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  15. #75
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    How do we change the duration of the glow plugs?

    Well its just over 2 weeks since my last post, and today we finally fired her up. It wasn't real happy with the short time duration on the glow plugs and was also needing to bleed the air from the pump and injectors. The end result was that we hit it up with some aerostart - hereafter referred to as start ya bastard. The motor fired and ran each time Gary squirted some into the intake, then on about the sixth or seventh firing she kept going, shakily at first, then gradually coming good over about a minute. The oil pressure looked good and there were no signs of oil or water leaks. Gary shut it down, then tried cranking it again and it started fine.

    So it appears we need to figure out how to give the glow plugs a long rather than short duration. This is because the old engine was direct injection (noisier, but easier starting and supposed to make more power) whereas the new engine is indirect injection also known as pre-combustion. So naturally the Rodeo has a glow plug system that assumes the motor only needs a short duration on the glow plugs.

    Hence the question in the title of this post. What we have as a fall back position is to stick a starter button into the dash, run that to trigger a relay which then runs battery power to the glow plugs. We then probably need to sit there for 10 or 20 seconds holding this button in.

    What I am hopeful of, is that I may be able to pull out whatever it is that runs the system in the Rodeo, and swap it for the corresponding thing from a Jackaroo.

    Does anyone know the ins and outs of this sort of thing? I am thinking that it is the sort of thing that may be known to a Holden mechanic or an auto sparky or similar.

    In other news, the bonnet looks like it will close over the top mounted intercooler as long as I remove the plastic trim. This is unlikely to matter for long as we should be putting a Patrol scoop on it fairly soon.

    For the moment we have the Mazda 2.5 diesel turbo bolted to the motor and the original dump pipe for the 3.1 engine bolted slightly dodgily to the turbo. We haven't yet attached anything else to make up an exhaust, although we will probably patch something together to get the ute down to Al's workshop, where he will have a look at the original turbo and likely swap that one onto the motor. Then the exhaust system he made up for this vehicle should be able to be adapted to the different turbo.

    That is all for now.
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
    MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
    '66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
    '66 Jaguar S-Type 3.8 Auto Sedan
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  16. #76
    Registered User RB30-POWER's Avatar
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    have you tested that all your current glow plugs are in spec and working firstly?

  17. #77
    loves the Cressy
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    Yeah, nah. But the motor was hot run tested by the joint we got it from. The real issue is that the car seems set up to light the glow plug for about half a second, which is fine with the 4JB1T, not so fine with the 4JG2T. We expected a problem, and we got one.

    We will most likely jerry up a system like I described, even if I later find out how to get the car to do it for me.
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
    MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
    '66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
    '66 Jaguar S-Type 3.8 Auto Sedan
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  18. #78
    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    Jackaroo glow control module. It'll be under the dash on the driver side somewhere.
    You probably should check the glow plugs aren't completely rooted too. There's a good chance of it. Won't help if the duration is too short but if you fix that and they are still rooted you will pull your hair out.

    Pull out the glow control and take the cover off. Take a pic and I bet some random PFer will be able to tell you which bit is the timer and where to get another with a longer duration.

    And put the proper turbo back on ya muppet. Give it to the olds to brong down and I will check it for you.
    David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz View Post
    You can't polish a turd but you can put 600hp in it and laugh your fucking arse off coming past someone sideways at Powercruise.

  19. #79
    Registered User RB30-POWER's Avatar
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    to check the glow plugs, you need to,
    -disconnect the battery (safety first)
    -remove the busbar that connects all the glowplugs together, usually by screw on nuts
    -get multimeter and measure between a good earth on the engine and the glowplug centre terminal
    -they should measure somewhere around 0.5ohm to 1.0ohm. (should all be the same if they are good)

    if you have any reading significantly higher, like 50ohm, 10k ohm, open circuit, they are buggered and will not draw any current.

    you would be suprised that unless the conditions are extreme you will usually get the engines started on a single glowplug, but 4 working plugs, makes a massive difference to any engine config, and especially and indirect system like you mention.

  20. #80
    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    The problem is that the 2.8 direct injection engine does not even use the glow plugs unless it is sub zero conditions. The 3.1 is pre combustion so requires at least a few seconds of glow to start cold. The current glow control does not even give this much.
    David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz View Post
    You can't polish a turd but you can put 600hp in it and laugh your fucking arse off coming past someone sideways at Powercruise.

  21. #81
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    From memory there is a coolant temperature switch at the front of a 4jb1 that turns the glowplugs on below 10 degrees or so. Perhaps you could source a switch that closes at a higher temperature.

    There are aftermarket glowplug controllers available if you want to try that.

    If you fit a button to manually switch on the glowplugs, then you should time how long till the glowplugs start to glow red and then hold the button down for that time only.

  22. #82
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    Thanks for the replies guys. Gary will most probably just do the bodgy tomorrow with hard wiring the plugs to the starter switch, then I will probably come through and pull the dash out to try and find the glow control module. In the mean time we will hopefully be able to move the car. I am now into my working week, so will not be having much to do with this until wednesday. Unless I start doing odd jobs after dark, in a cold dark farm shed, in winter
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
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  23. #83
    Registered User Asteroid's Avatar
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    A "modern" ID engine doesn't actually need to run the glow plugs all that long anyway. The Corolla's only ran for 2-3 seconds, yet this was all that was required even on the coldest of mornings. I did have some trouble coldstarting it at one stage but the plugs turned out to be toast (all four measured several hundred k of resistance, whereas the new ones were around 1 ohm). So be don't stingy and just replace them.
    Last edited by Asteroid; 21-06-09 at 09:53 AM.

  24. #84
    loves the Cressy
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    Okay, frankensteins exhaust has been run and is quietening the whole deal down. It is basically the old original exhaust that Al replaced with the 63mm one he made for us, with a little bit of massaging and a lot of dodgyness due to the dump arrangement being differernt from the Rodeo to the Mu. Whatever it'll get us down to Al's so he can redo his good works and rip this one out again. While lying under the vehicle checking out the exhaust leaks (pfft who cares) I noticed that there was oil leaking onto the floor. The drip every 10 seconds or so, was coming from turbo drain back pipe where it bolts to the sump. This transpired to be loose on the two nuts. I am 80% certain I did tighten it, however I may have loosened it again. Anyway, will retighten and keep an eye on it.

    Also planning on taking off the intercooler and other stuff and checking the resistance of the glow plugs, as well as bleeding the lines to the injectors.

    That should about take care of the rest of today, methinks.
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
    MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
    '66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
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  25. #85
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    i'd have binned it for an engine conversion at the second crankshaft lol

    I suggest a turbo duramax
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  26. #86
    loves the Cressy
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    Well, the second replacement crank was under warranty, soooo didn't really cost us that much compared to the first time we broke a crank. This time though the replacement donk was comparable in price to what we spent the first time we fixed a broken crank, and frankly we cannot figure out why the hell the buggers are breaking, so we weren't too keen on running the experiment with that block yet again. When we had already done everything we could think of to prevent it happening again, and it still happened.

    Yes this thing owes us way more than it is worth. I can only think that it has turned into a perverse sort of hobby for us rebuilding it at random intervals of between six months and two years.

    And the only thing I really considered as a conversion possibility when the crank broke was a 1UZ.

    Edit: Oh yeah, bled the injectors this afternoon and checked the resistance of the glow plugs. They came in all four measuring 1.7 Ohms, which sounds a touch higher than suggested but not super high, so they may be tired but not dead.

    For an encore, while I had all the intercooler stuff off, I pulled the aircon compressor off and rotated it 90 degrees so that the plumbing on it didn't foul on the intake piping to the turbo, or the battery. Don't know how much of a bitch it is going to make regassing the system, but we'll burn that bridge when we come to it.

    Tomorrow will probably sling the bonnet and bullbar back on and put the bash plates back on underneath.
    Last edited by jzx83; 24-06-09 at 09:05 PM. Reason: Forgot to mention progress this arvo
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
    MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
    '66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
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  27. #87
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    i considered a conversion for my rodeo. It was very easy and cheap actually.


    I converted it into another car.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  28. #88
    Registered User Supashake's Avatar
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    I sold my 93 Diesel Rodeo 4x4 at 500000Ks, I beat it silly and thought it had to die soon so sadly moved it on.
    It left WA for Mt isa and did lots of Ks there and now has come back to Perth still running strong.
    Only major part it ever needed was Injector pump and injectors and clutch.
    Best Car I ever had.

  29. #89
    loves the Cressy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim View Post
    i considered a conversion for my rodeo. It was very easy and cheap actually.


    I converted it into another car.
    Wasn't that the V6 petrol though. So, heavy on fuel as well as not particularly powerful? If memory serves me on what I have been told - never driven one. Seen lotsa work utes though when loading the builders up.

    Quote Originally Posted by Supashake View Post
    I sold my 93 Diesel Rodeo 4x4 at 500000Ks, I beat it silly and thought it had to die soon so sadly moved it on.
    It left WA for Mt isa and did lots of Ks there and now has come back to Perth still running strong.
    Only major part it ever needed was Injector pump and injectors and clutch.
    Best Car I ever had.
    Yeah, there's the thing. We put nothing really into the car for the first 200,000 km. It had a water pump go at 80,000km, and apart from fuel, oils and suspension bushes, and blowing spotlight bulbs on a semi regular basis, the only other thing I recall is that we replaced the clutchabout 5 to 7 years ago, and the plate still had plenty of meat left. It was "we've opened it up now and got the replacement, might as well use it".

    The downside to the vehicle became that it was a major slug, then the pump died and we fixed that and suddenly it wasn't a slug anymore. So it was 'wow its decent to drive again'.

    Anyway today is bullbar and bonnet and grill, underbody protection stuff and bleed the clutch. Then we will run it around for a few days before taking down to Al's next week. Gary wants to iron out any bugs before driving the better part of 100km from home in it. Took it out and up the nearby valley yesterday for a shake down. Seems okay, not completely gutless, but probably not anywhere near as much poke as it was before. Different sound too.
    Last edited by jzx83; 25-06-09 at 07:39 AM.
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
    MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
    '66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
    '66 Jaguar S-Type 3.8 Auto Sedan
    - Long Term Jobs

  30. #90
    loves the Cressy
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    Well the old girl has had a couple of runs on the road, and Gary has given the rear springs a birthday today and renewed the shackle bushes which were fairly stuffed - some metal on metal action starting to happen. He also pinched the rubbers out of a secondhand set of rear shocks to replace the flogged out ones in the otherwise good shocks. We are going to have to get all our stuff together in readiness to take it down to Al's workshop on Thursday. In the meantime we are also doing steering box seals and front output seals on the transfer box of a friend's old LandCruiser.
    Last edited by jzx83; 30-06-09 at 09:17 PM.
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
    MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
    '66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
    '66 Jaguar S-Type 3.8 Auto Sedan
    - Long Term Jobs

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