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Thread: Garage Takai IPRA AE86 (56k die)

  1. #31
    Dirt Turbo Gavatron's Avatar
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    Today was the first progress in about 2 years. The head gasket popped at the last race Chris ran in, and it has sat ever since.



    Last edited by Gavatron; 22-03-09 at 05:05 PM.

  2. #32
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Ok, a touch bored at work, so where was i.

    Oh thats right, the entire thing blew up on me, and so i had to rebuild it.

    That year was pretty busy, being my final year at uni and all, but i ended up bringing the car back to my little flat in North Adelaide and working on it when i could.

    Looked roughly like this when i started:


    Proof that heat shielding stuff actually works.


    So i started cleaning things up, and since i had to rebuild the rack anyway, i thought i would get a Quaife rack... which failed.

    Got one of the batch which needed to be returned, took almost 18 months.

    Got started pulling the engine out, and at this point i decided what the hell, lets go racing seriously.


    Grinding down for seam welding


    Got a new C's short shifter


    Kept cleaning stuff up


    Stitch welded, and then painted the engine bay in POR15


    JDM 4A bellhousing for fewer clutch slave issues


    With some of the wiring issues i had before, i went a bit OTT on wiring up the new loom.

    Crimps, solder and heatshrink.
    Wired all to a 20pin quickrelease ATX style connector


    New dash cluster


    Working out on the balcony:

    with the blue tarp to keep the rain out.

    Junk everywhere


    Car outside underneath the deck.

    Decided while i was at it that i would rewire the entire car


    Rebuilt the struts incase of heat damage


    Dash cluster


    Started work on the airbox


    New brake lines


    Coil over plugs


    That about took me until December when i finished up my exams. Pretty hard getting much done with 6 subjects at uni, and other committments.

    That summer though, i got heaps done. First of all a mate opened a workshop, and in exchange for the use of my engine crane and trolley jack i got free storage/workspace out there:

    Where the real fun started.

    More on that soon, post limit stuff.
    Chris
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  3. #33
    GTR Wanker MR 1JZ's Avatar
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    LOL @ your "update"
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  4. #34
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Haha, its a build thread in review, much easier to just rehash what happened 3 years ago than do anything new on it :P
    Chris
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  5. #35
    weirdo F|sh's Avatar
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    does the quaife rack fit in the normal rack? or is it a direct replacement because i would be careful of the replacement rack rules.
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  6. #36
    Custon User Title Borked Cplus's Avatar
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    is this car in canberra or adelaide mate?
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  7. #37
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Its about 200m from you as the crow flies Cplus.

    Fish: its a replacement rack inner and pinion. Valid. But still sitting on my bench as Quaife took almost 18 months to get me a new one, and by then i had just put in a wrecker rack.
    Chris
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  8. #38
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    From when i got it in there it was on like donkey kong.

    Built a new plenum, after it looked like the old one wasnt going to fit:




    New fueling system:


    Shimless bucket setup:


    Put the interior back together and finished off the wiring (yes, all the red wires are fused +B feeds)


    Got it all back together and sent it off to be caged:


    Cage:


    Came back and got an exhaust:


    Went off to be tuned, blew up an ignitor:


    Plus the coil over plug setup was excessively hard to get readings for timing, so i cracked it and redid the ignition system:


    From there on it was back to my house to finish off the little things for scrutineering:



    Tailshaft loops:


    Killswitch:


    Fuel firewall:


    Scrutineering happened, and then it was off to my first meet:
    Night before:


    Out there:



    Thats not supposed to happen:


    Turns out that the booster diaphragm had busted during the fire, so i had buggerall front brakes and all rears. Lead to spinning a hell of a lot. So i only just qualified, and had race 1 then packed up and went home. Good learning experience.

    Out came the booster and boosted MC, and in went of all things an unboosted 240K master:
    Mounting plate:

    Mocked up:

    Setting pushrod throw:

    All back together:


    The season that year had a bit of a break between August and November, so i took it out to a couple of practice days. At one of them my one of my bonnet pins snapped and the other came loose and the bonnet popped up at 140km/h into Turn1. Cracked the windscreen, and smashed the sunroof. Sunroof wasnt the end of the world, as i wanted to replace it anyway:

    All done.


    I then did the last two events of the year, including the twilight meet. At the twilight meet i was unlucky enough to be pulling in at the end of Qualifying only to have the car in front run out of fuel in the pit lane entrance. I couldnt go anywhere, and couldnt go back out onto track, the marshalls wouldnt let me turn off the car (probably for fear of it not staritng again) so i had to sit there idling with no thermofan. Hit 110* before i got moving again, and so i had to do a few laps of the pits at <20km/h to try and get the temps down before parking it.
    Surely enough, i had blown the head gasket. I managed to do R1 and R2 before putting it back on the trailer and calling it a day. Best times out there to date in that car too, 1:27.2 with a BHG.

    When i got it home i parked the car, and ended up buying a house under a week after that event. From there on until now its been pretty busy getting the house sorted, and getting married. However, now im ready to get back into it. Parts are coming together, and work is beginning....

    Stay tuned...
    Chris
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  9. #39
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    And now for something completely different. Im actually doing work on this car again, so a to-do list is probably in order:
    • Put engine back together (with a new ARP washer to replace the one which went walkies)
    • Relocate brake bias adjuster into the cabin
    • Relocate battery into the rear passenger side seat area
    • Build new seat rails, without sliders, so i can sit without my head hitting the roof
    • Make new airbox
    • Make traction brackets to locate lower links further down
    • Regrease all the suspension bushings
    • Drop Quaife rack off for rebuild
    • Transfer sump over from my other 4AG
    • Install switch activated thermofan
    • Decide whether to stay with 14s or go to 15s
    • Convert to RX7 brakes
    • Add oil filter relocator and cooler after the last setup was stolen


    Currently im trying to decide whether i should bite the bullet and go to 283mm discs and 15" rims, or stay with 14"s and go with the 266mm equivalent disc. Both with the RX7 caliper.
    Chris
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    I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

  10. #40
    Registered User charged's Avatar
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    Currently im trying to decide whether i should bite the bullet and go to 283mm discs and 15" rims, or stay with 14"s and go with the 266mm equivalent disc. Both with the RX7 caliper.
    Chris I would go the 280mm rotor and 15s mate, the tyres arent much dearer, they come in a 50 profile and seem to be quicker than the 14s.
    On the brakes go the 280mm straight away, we have found once the lap times drop the brakes suffer, mine were fine at the start but now are good for 3 laps. Im in the process of going the rx7 upgrade and 15s aswell. Plus if you go turbs eventually the brakes will but up to the task
    SA IPRA cars 15, 51, 77 and 25
    (Sharperto Racing)


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  11. #41
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Yeah, thats the way im leaning. Just picked up some 15x7s too
    Chris
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  12. #42
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Found another option of squeezing 294mm rotors under there.


    Bit more dicey with wheel fitment though, plus a harder to make bracket:

    vs
    Chris
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  13. #43
    Corolling along Taylz's Avatar
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    11.75" Wilwood discs on custom alloy hubs compared to RA60 disc (260mm roughly) on AE86 hub. I have RX7 4pots clamping the Wilwoods and it all fits inside a 15x7 performance superlite (just). The Wilwood/alloy hub combo also comes in lighter than the previous combo - cant remember the exact figure but it was more than 1kg per side.
    "We specialise in amazingly accurate interpretations of your pathetically unclear and dismally vague descriptions of what you think you might want"

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  14. #44
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Who made up the Alloy hub? Im still going to keep with my RA40/RT132 hubs because of the bearing size though

    Looks good though, that info with Rowds stuff about the VT gives me confidence that 294mm discs will fit.

    Edit: oh and taylz, when did you switch to an AE86, i thought you still had a Datto of some sort.

    Edit2: the other thing im vaguely concerned about is pad contact area, being almost a 20mm bigger disc than the caliper/pads are designed for.
    Last edited by takai; 08-07-09 at 03:33 PM.
    Chris
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  15. #45
    Corolling along Taylz's Avatar
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    Switched to AE86 a couple of years ago (was the KE35 in the avatar). The majority of the running gear is out of the KE. The AE86 is now 3 seconds per lap faster than the KE ever was, with at least another second in it. It was 2 full seconds a lap quicker in its first meeting out (running gear swapped in and put on the track with no setup). The front brake change dropped another second.

    The hubs were done by a local engineer, we supplied him with a billet of 6061-T6. There are renderings of some 2 piece hubs for an RX7 on the IP forums that I took the inspiration from. The Wilwood's swept area fits the RX7 caliper perfectly.
    "We specialise in amazingly accurate interpretations of your pathetically unclear and dismally vague descriptions of what you think you might want"

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  16. #46
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Ah nice one. Seems to be a few sprinters around now. Used to be just Chris O'Shannessy, Justen McClintock and myself back when i first built the car.
    Chris
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  17. #47
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Well between Vista dying in the arse on my work machine, and a supplier calling to say that the swaybar for the Cressy was in i packed up early today and came home.
    After i put the swaybar on the Cressy i had a bit under an hour before dinner to get some work on the Spoonter done.

    So ive made a start on shifting the battery and isolator switch, and started thinking about making new rails for the seat. Thinking about it anyway.

    On with the Edo spec pics:

    Relocated isolator switch. Used to be behind the handbrake hole on the trans tunnel, but it really wasnt a very intuitive spot to reach for, so its going in plain sight.


    Started installing battery box, and then realised that i dont have any plate/bar steel to put into it for a base, and so its just tek screwed in. Relocated the main fuses near there now and cleaned up some of the wiring.


    Bling bling waterpump underdrive pulley arrived the other day from the US. Cheaper than sourcing one locally, and relatively blingy. Hopefully it will help with the cavitation problem i was having going through the kink at 8900rpm.

    Thats about it for now, hoping to get some more work done this weekend.
    Chris
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  18. #48
    needs boost... morerevsm3's Avatar
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    I can fit 15" wheels over my 315mm rear discs

    E36 M3 12.92 @ 108.64mph, N/A 3.0L

  19. #49
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    So squeezing 294s under really wont be a problem.
    Only problem now is the fact that DBA, RDA, Protex, and Brembo have nil stock. The only stock of these rotors in the country is BMW, and they want $490 each. Ill skip on that one, looks like the brake upgrade has to wait for a few months... no problems.
    Chris
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  20. #50
    Opens profi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by morerevsm3 View Post
    I can fit 15" wheels over my 315mm rear discs
    Ill raise you 15, i have 330mm rotors in a 15.

  21. #51
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Bah, stop making my 294s seem small :P
    Chris
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  22. #52
    Corolling along Taylz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by profi View Post
    Ill raise you 15, i have 330mm rotors in a 15.
    What caliper?
    "We specialise in amazingly accurate interpretations of your pathetically unclear and dismally vague descriptions of what you think you might want"

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  23. #53
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    I got some more work done on the car this weekend. Firstly rebuilding 4As is like riding a bike, you never really forget how to do it. So i popped the head on, and started tensioning up everything, but to put the timing belt back on i had to take off the alternator belt:

    And then the alternator basically fell off.

    Found that at some point in the past the bolt holding the custom alternator bracket had sheared off the block leaving the alternator held on by only 1 bolt at the bottom.

    So in the vein of Babs' hako thread, and Edos camerawork, i put together a little howto on removing a sheared bolt.

    Firstly, find a bolt that has sheared off, like this alternator bolt, soak it with penetrene/rp7/wd40.

    And pop a nice little punch mark into the center of it.

    Then take your drilling tool of choice, in my case a re-cased Bluepoint air drill:

    Internals by bluepoint, casing by supercrap.

    Drill a hole down the center of the bolt, carefully. I chose a 3mm bit for this task:

    I blame edo for the crap photo.

    Then source an appropriate torx bit (i buy them up when they are going cheap at bunnings) and hammer it into the bolt.


    Take one shifter with a 1/4" socket on the end and slowly and gently wind it out:


    Voila, one removed bolt:


    So other than that, i went and picked up my 4.77 ratio diff, and new door cards for the rear. I did end up redoing the timing belt and finishing off assembly but no pics of that for now. I need to go see a bolt store to buy a whole stack of stainless capscrews to replace the mild ones which are rusting up.

    I also did some work on relocating the brake bias valve incabin just infront of the handbrake hole in the trans tunnel.

    Plus i got around to drilling off the brackets for the seat rails, so i can build up some custom ones, to hopefully mount this new seat a bit lower than the old one.

    Which brings me to two questions (which ill probably repost in General or somewhere).
    Firstly, for the distance between the trans tunnel and the valve would people use braided lines, or just run hardlines all the way?
    Secondly, what gauge steel would people use for the seat rails? Im thinking 4 or 5mm thick bar. Anyone else?
    Chris
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  24. #54
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    Is the valve a pro-portioning valve style thingy? If so, hard lines all the way, nothing is going to move so save the dollars and effort.

    How wide for the seat rais? I used 20x20x3 (or something similar, defiently 3mm guage) and it doesn't flex with my weight on it, most of the forces are towards the edge of the car so they don't need to be massive.

  25. #55
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Yeah, proportioning valve, will be hard mounted.

    Not overly wide for the rails, maybe 25mm max. However, im building mine on the stock mounts, because removing the crossrail in the ae86 doesnt really gain you much height (big trans bulge under the drivers seat)
    Chris
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  26. #56
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    Going to need some pics to give a decent answer, if you are trying to lower the seat then using RHS might be a bad idea in which case you will need something thicker guage.

  27. #57
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Really bad picture of another car, and passenger side, but just mirror it and you get the idea.

    Edit: too many Edo-spec photos in this thread for someone who has photography as hobby. Will have to do better. Going to take home the "garage camera" today.
    Last edited by takai; 13-07-09 at 01:19 PM.
    Chris
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  28. #58
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Ok, as i said before, too many Edo spec photos in this thread. Hence here are some clear ones to even out the ratio.

    Fully assembled engine:

    With gratuitious toyota flag:


    Remounted kill switch:


    Where the brake bias valve will go:


    And finally some of the floorpan around the seat area:



    Including the cutoff bracketry.
    Now looking at it again, rationally, i think ill end up mounting the sidemounts on the left side (tunnel side) straight to the floor, with some reinforcement, but also see if i can get the "nose" of the seat up over the crossbar in the floor, because that keeps my knees in the best location. I think ill end up welding SHS to the floor on the right (outboard) side though, so im not sure how that will go.
    Chris
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  29. #59
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    I went out and jigged everything up and made a hell of a lot of measurements tonight.
    First i got the seat in the right place:

    Right there its comfortable, i can reach the pedals, it fits (snug between cage and trans tunnel) and i dont think ill have issues with my knee being dicky at that angle (i had serious issues in our FormulaSAE car where my knee was at about 10* bent).

    Then i got out my little friend/new toy:

    Basically a digital inclinometer, or spirit level. But it does bucket loads of stuff and you can set it to a base reference other than horizontal (gravity) etc.

    Checked on the block of wood ontop of the seat:

    0.1deg, good enough, if that tiny angle is much of an issue i can adjust it out with the seat in place.

    Got out the trusty paint pen, and made stacks of markings:


    And now im left with this:

    The horizontal mark at the top is the angle of the seat rails (as they arnt perfectly square, almost but not quite), the vertical tick marks are where the holes in the rails are. In this configuration the rails are butting up hard against the cross brace, so i cant really go any further forward, and i cant go further back due to the cage. Just perfect.
    The front mark with the F above it is the frontmost of the front 3 holes, 25mm from the brace. Each of the holes in the rail is 20mm apart.
    At the back i have the 2 rearward most holes marked out of which im thinking ill use the rearmost as the front one will be VERY tight on the stock mount. Plus im considering keeping the stock mounts so i can mount a stock seat in for tuners to use (the seat is custom for me, and quite narrow).

    Now the real thing i have to decide is whether to mount rails across the car or down the length of the car. I could do a combination of the two, but its not going to be pretty. At the front i could do just tabs off the brace, but im not convinced of the strength of that, so it will be either all the way across or all the way down.
    Ideas?
    Chris
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    I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

  30. #60
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    Where did you get the get it right from? It would be very very useful!

    Given you are not going to adjust it, I would use whatever ones mount easiest. Are you keeping the side mounts on the seat at the moment? They will add a fair amount of strength to any rails running underneath them. so you could use either RHS or angle mounted to the back of the rail and then similar material lengthways for the mounts to go on to.

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