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Thread: XW getting built for the corners n shit

  1. #91
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Cheers Oxy, Yea it's a massive job to clean up an engine bay and to hide all that shit, My biggest issue is the LPG shit that requires additional lines that seems to clutter things up,

    I will take your advise and run the wiring like that and also going to try to reduce some other hoses and crap.
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  2. #92
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Far out its been a while but there has been some progress,partially welded in the notching kit, the one on the LHS has the centre bracing welded in and the RHS got finished after this pic. there is still a fair ammount of welding and grinding to do, then weld up all the holes and smooth over the welds on the tower.




    These are the coilovers adjustable for ride height and spring rate and the new hubs which have larger dia bearings.




    Last edited by Greg Rust; 15-08-09 at 12:54 AM.
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  3. #93
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    This also found its way into my boot this afternoon and was promptly transferred to the garage for much chubbyness.
    Came from an XR8 that fell over and kindly decided that I needed it more. Tremec T56.


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  4. #94
    Naughtius Maximus JayTHEFordman's Avatar
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    Nice find XW. That'll go sweet in there.
    Envy is Ignorance, Imitation is Suicide - Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Originally Posted by Stang:
    particularly when your body is functioning like a 1970s Alfa made by drunken chimpanzees on a Friday afternoon

  5. #95
    Registered User Monza's Avatar
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    fuck dude! this is going to rock
    This is my sig. There are many like it, but this one is mine. My sig is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. My sig, without me, is useless. Without my sig, I am useless.

  6. #96
    Has AIDS - BRT-393 Bermo's Avatar
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    Nice one dude!

    What you doing with your old box?
    Im not only sure Im HIV positive.

  7. #97
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Cheers fellas,

    Bermo, a nice young man came over and paid me cash for my C10 and Dominator, said he wanted to race his XE but couldn't get below 12.5 with his toploader.
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  8. #98
    Naughtius Maximus JayTHEFordman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xwgasaxe View Post
    Bermo, a nice young man came over and paid me cash for my C10 and Dominator, said he wanted to race his XE but couldn't get below 12.5 with his toploader.
    Damn. I was eyeing that off
    Envy is Ignorance, Imitation is Suicide - Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Originally Posted by Stang:
    particularly when your body is functioning like a 1970s Alfa made by drunken chimpanzees on a Friday afternoon

  9. #99
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Oh yea oops sorry about that but I needed the cash real bad as my $1200 a day meth habit kicked in.
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  10. #100
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Ok what's the go with welding holes up in the engine bay that are say 8-10mm? Do you just weld a small piece of CS inside the wheel arch and then smooth over with filler.
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  11. #101
    Chicken strip paradise Jay_G's Avatar
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    find someone or a sheet metal business with a turret punch, spend 5 mins punch out a heap of different size circles and weld them in. i would me nicer to get them flush, i have seen someone on a car show use magnet to hold the circle while it was welded.
    yep

  12. #102
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Ah cheers so what you saying is that I should use the Water Jet Cutter that I have at my work and cut out various size circles and just tack them into the hole?

    Awesome didn't know it was going to be that easy.
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  13. #103
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Ok so started working on the rear suspension this week, the diff is from an EF XR6 wagon and bolted straight into the spring mounts. I then grabbed from the wreckers the Watts link diff cover and rods from an EL sedan.

    What I am assuming is that the rods should be parallel to each other which leaves them about 20mm inside the verticle line of the chassis rails and about 300mm on the drivers side and about 400mm on the passenger side lower. I knocked up a really simple bracket from 50sq mild steel tube and notched it on one side to hopefully wrap around the chassis rails and the fasteners will have crush tubes put into brackets.

    Question I have is will this be strong enough if I put some gusset bracing on the inside to the area where the fuel tank used to mount?

    Any other thoughts?






    Last edited by Greg Rust; 08-10-09 at 12:15 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monza View Post
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  14. #104
    Tectaloy Chemist oxy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xwgasaxe View Post
    Ok what's the go with welding holes up in the engine bay that are say 8-10mm? Do you just weld a small piece of CS inside the wheel arch and then smooth over with filler.
    That's what I (with the help of a mate) did. Welded some small plates on the non engine bay side of the holes, then tried to weld up as much of the hole as possible and then smoothed over with filler. Was interesting when welding a plate on to the fire wall and the carpet caught on fire

  15. #105
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    For welding up the holes, grab a thick piece of copper and get someone to hold it behind the hole whilst you weld it up. You can use a small piece of metal in the middle for bigger holes, but not really needed with this method as the weld won'ttake to the copper.

    Watts link bars should be parallel to the ground at ride height. they will cop a fair bit of sideways forces so you need to make sure the brackets are very strong. The stiffer they are, the better they will work. Hard to comment on your design with the pictures given but I would make sure they have a good brace towards the centre of the car to stop movement. It may require putting a cross brace between the rails if there is nothing to put it on to.

  16. #106
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    AU rear cover will give you a lower rear roll centre from memory.
    You may wind up doing what I did, which was cut big chunks of the tank well out so I could weld doublers to the rails and then the box sections, and then weld the sheet metal back in. How's your clearance to where the tank well rolls down behind the diff in the middle? A 9" uses up every last ounce of clearance in there by itself...

    As for bracing - I'd run a small diagonal running backward up to the rail, and a pair of longer braces up tp the centre of the tank well, but I'd use alot of reinforcing where it ties in.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  17. #107
    New Zealand bro Dave's Avatar
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    That powercable without the grommet is scary
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  18. #108
    Registered User ahk068's Avatar
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    Can you educate me on what the benefits of a watts linkage is when combined with leaf springs?

  19. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahk068 View Post
    Can you educate me on what the benefits of a watts linkage is when combined with leaf springs?
    lateral stability, if youve ever watched a leaf sprung car go around corners, youll understand.

    Watch the bathurst telecast, Neil Crompton will explain it about 11ty thousand times lol.
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    I'd rather put a 253 than efi

  20. #110
    Registered User ahk068's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenhj View Post
    lateral stability, if youve ever watched a leaf sprung car go around corners, youll understand.

    Watch the bathurst telecast, Neil Crompton will explain it about 11ty thousand times lol.
    Figured that, just never thought it would be a massive issue on a car being built for the quarter. Return for investment of time type of deal.

  21. #111
    Tectaloy Chemist oxy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahk068 View Post
    Figured that, just never thought it would be a massive issue on a car being built for the quarter. Return for investment of time type of deal.
    Isn't he trying to get in to circuit stuff now though?

  22. #112
    Registered User ahk068's Avatar
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    Haven't read all the thread but if he is it explains everything. Carry on

  23. #113
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oxy View Post
    That's what I (with the help of a mate) did. Welded some small plates on the non engine bay side of the holes, then tried to weld up as much of the hole as possible and then smoothed over with filler. Was interesting when welding a plate on to the fire wall and the carpet caught on fire
    Yea was thinking that I could do that to start with but me and the crazy engineer at work are going to try to cut some 8.5mm circles with the water jet cutter. we haven't tried anything this small yet so should be interesting

    Quote Originally Posted by HoonBoy View Post
    For welding up the holes, grab a thick piece of copper and get someone to hold it behind the hole whilst you weld it up. You can use a small piece of metal in the middle for bigger holes, but not really needed with this method as the weld won'ttake to the copper.

    Watts link bars should be parallel to the ground at ride height. they will cop a fair bit of sideways forces so you need to make sure the brackets are very strong. The stiffer they are, the better they will work. Hard to comment on your design with the pictures given but I would make sure they have a good brace towards the centre of the car to stop movement. It may require putting a cross brace between the rails if there is nothing to put it on to.
    thanks for the info and confirmation on the parallel at ride height. I will have to grab some weights for the rear to simulate a full tank of fuel.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    AU rear cover will give you a lower rear roll centre from memory.
    You may wind up doing what I did, which was cut big chunks of the tank well out so I could weld doublers to the rails and then the box sections, and then weld the sheet metal back in. How's your clearance to where the tank well rolls down behind the diff in the middle? A 9" uses up every last ounce of clearance in there by itself...

    As for bracing - I'd run a small diagonal running backward up to the rail, and a pair of longer braces up tp the centre of the tank well, but I'd use alot of reinforcing where it ties in.
    Yes I asked about the AU cover but the boys at the wreckers insisted that they were the same. never the less I may stick my head under an AU and measure. I am goeing to have to do the same as you and cut some sheet metal as the centre link will hit and the sides will need to be cut to make the diagonal braces.

    Quote Originally Posted by old Dave View Post
    That powercable without the grommet is scary
    The grommet is somewhere further along the cable as it go pushed through when I moved the cable, but you comment is noted.
    Quote Originally Posted by ahk068 View Post
    Figured that, just never thought it would be a massive issue on a car being built for the quarter. Return for investment of time type of deal.
    Yep Auto is chucked in favour of T56, got some new front suspension and doing these mods for roundy round stuff.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monza View Post
    I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

  24. #114
    Registered User RB30-POWER's Avatar
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    i'm glad the grommet issue is under control, could have been nasty.

    top notch work otherwise, it's a rather big undertaking...

  25. #115
    Chopped BigMuz's Avatar
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    Low roll centre is not necessarily what you want. The front and rear roll centres work together- rellay low at the rear and really high at the front isn't right imho.

    It is miles better than leafs only so do the lateral location thing and see how it drives.

  26. #116
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    With the RRS strut front end you wind up with a pretty low roll centre at the front, so i don't think the super mega low roll centre of an AU rear cover is an issue.
    With my car, because it's going to be traction limited and I want to try to maximise the drive off of corners, I'm pushing the rear roll centre as low as possible to soften the rear in roll as much as possible to try to keep it planted. If understeer is an issue, i can just wind the rear roll centre back up, or bolt on a rear arb.
    You can run into bind problems with the conflict between the differing roll centres imposed by the leafs and the watts link - answer here is to either superimpose them, or run rose joints in the watts and put stock rubber back in the spring saddles, shackles and front eye to ensure the springs are but springs. This also means you need a 3link or a torque arm to control the axle tramp/hop. This is what i'm doing (within the limits of the Nc rules)
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  27. #117
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Cheers for the help Gamma with the rear sheet metal, I cut out a section last night as the metal will foul most areas of the Watts. It is must easier to see what's required also.

    I have the old 50mm angle iron from the gas tank that I am thinking of bolting back inline with the Watts links and then using some triangular bracing up to the iron, that or just use 25mm sq box tube and brace from one side to the other.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Monza View Post
    I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

  28. #118
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Had some free time in the office this arvo, so me and the mad scientist decided to make some spacers for the RRS rack, the thing is pretty close to the sump and I wanted to move it away. the mounting studs are long enough to allow a 9mm movement, so we grabbed some 3mm Titanium Grade 2 sheet and cut these strips out and also while we were there made some new strut top braces from the same material.





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    Quote Originally Posted by Monza View Post
    I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

  29. #119
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    I need to get some of that equipment in my office!

  30. #120
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Woohoo, thanks Aussie dollar!!

    Just ordered me a Holley 750DP HP Street and one of those Anodised carby brackets from Summit racing USA!!


    Last edited by Greg Rust; 02-11-09 at 11:55 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monza View Post
    I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

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