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Thread: LB Lancer Track Car

  1. #1
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    LB Lancer Grip Racer- Now with more grip

    This is my newest little project car that I have been working on. I want to get into some form of racing so needed a cheap car to build up. I have always liked the idea of a early RWD lancer or Galant with a 4G63. I came across a 1978 LB Lancer with a blown head that was going cheap, and it happens to work out that my Grandfather was the original owner many owners ago.

    I will build it up inline with the IPRA rule book so I once I get it pretty well sorted I can start racing it.
    Like said I want to run a VR4 engine or later IV+ evo motor if the budget stretches nd probably bolt it up to a supra box and hilux diff.

    Here are some pictures of where I am up to, I should have it painted pretty soon but am after some ideas on the paint scheme. I have some Ford rapid yellow off the XR8 falcooons (see colour painted in boot pic it didn't try so fluro) I was thinking of painting the bonnet black or putting some GT stripes on it to break up all the yellow any other idea?






















    Last edited by RESON8; 04-10-10 at 10:54 PM.
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    New Zealand bro Dave's Avatar
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    awesome jackstand on wheel!
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    nice job. dont use a hilux diff, plenty of better options.
    get lead like a leader

  5. #5
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    I love the LB sedans! I rallied one for many years and have had bloody heaps of them. somethings to be aware of:

    The left hand front guards and LB bonnets are rare as rocking horse shit, look after them the chances of finding more are slim.

    the front chassis rail between radius rod mount and sub frame buckle and kink under hard braking or minor parking lot biffs and it fucks up the camber and alignment, even on stock cars. Check that the rail doesnt have a kink in it and if it does get it straightened up.
    Fit a 3 or 4mm flat plate under the sub frame and radius rod brackets to stiffen it. You dont want to make it too rigid as it's a crush point for crashes.

    The other option is to use a galant crossmember and make adjustable lower control arms, as the galant uses A arms instead of radius rods.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  6. #6
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    I've got a few guards for each side, they are slightly different between LA1, LA2 and LB but can be interchanged without too much hassle. Bonnets are damn hard to find, the rust out the frame at the front and by the time it can be seen it is too late.

    That manual tunnel is tiny compared to my auto shell!

  7. #7
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    no1200 - What other diff options do you think I should look into? I was going for a hilux out of a 76ish model as it is only meant to be 30mm wider then the stock one and good gear centres are meant to be easy to find.

    Jim - Do you have any pictures of the area you are talking about??
    B&N Performance Engineering - 4Bangers & Mash Racing
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  8. #8
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    Look at the chassis rails forward of the crossmember. there is not much holding them straight.

  9. #9
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    I know guys here are using like rx4 diffs or something, aparently heaps lighter then hilux etc
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  10. #10
    Registered User charged's Avatar
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    Hilux diff is way to heavy, nephew runs a RX4 diff in his 2l 3sgte turbo IP car and hasnt had any problems. Better range of ratios also are available.

    http://www.iprasa.mx.com.au/cars/15%20c_sharp.htm
    SA IPRA cars 15, 51, 77 and 25
    (Sharperto Racing)


    http://www.iprasa.mx.com.au/

  11. #11
    free hugs! Paddington's Avatar
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    Hilux/Hiace diffs are very heavy, but you can get good ratios for them if you look hard enough and know how to read the toyota diff codes BUT they are more suited to high revving rotaries than piston motors (ie you can get well into the 4.xx and 5.xx ratio range, but usually only as two pinion open centres and I've yet to come across a decent non air locker LSD centre - the factory G series LSDs are rubbish)

    RX-4 = you would want to get a 13b RX-4 diff as the 12A one isn't that tough, but what about a SIII RX-7 diff? disc brakes, easy to come by centres, LSD's available, pretty cheap and they are a 4x114.3 stud pattern,

    I've got a hiace in my Mazda 1300. It's tough, its relatively easy to find bits for, the handbrake mechanism behind the drums is a prick of a thing though and it is heavy, they aren't as strong as a Ford 9 inch though, but they are lighter. Iht would probably have been better to get a Borg Warner diff and fit it with an LSD out of a falcon or something like that.

    Nice project though!
    Quote Originally Posted by Stix Z
    i'm upset i lost that video of that aboriginal woman taking a dump on a train that was on youtube
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim
    Sorry, am late to this thread. I have been protesting against whitey oppressors all morning with my people. I shall serenade this thread with my didge until nash comes in and puts it all into perspective.
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  12. #12
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    whatever diff you use will have to be narrowed to fit the lancer unless you're going to run 44gal drum flares.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  13. #13
    free hugs! Paddington's Avatar
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    ^ japanese 70's touring car flares FTMFW.
    Quote Originally Posted by Stix Z
    i'm upset i lost that video of that aboriginal woman taking a dump on a train that was on youtube
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim
    Sorry, am late to this thread. I have been protesting against whitey oppressors all morning with my people. I shall serenade this thread with my didge until nash comes in and puts it all into perspective.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sketchypimp
    the crumbs are the best bits of the golden gaytimes

  14. #14
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    sv_i I hadn't considered the SIII rx7 diff, does it run 28 spline axles like the RX4 diff? The 4x114.3 PCD and disc is good I assume the RX4 would be a 4x110 I haven't figured out what ratio I want to run in the diff I will have to find out what top speeds the guys are getting at mallala and work back from there, charged are you able to help me out on that one?

    I just came across a set of flares on the net the rally guys ran on the lancers they only add 50mm each side, but that is all you are allowed to add anyway. I will measure up the current diff and see how close these diffs match up.

    I finished painting the car tonight, the bugs love the yellow paint I was constantly picking them out each layer. I was considering rubbing the car back and buffing it up but it will probably get scratched and dented up.






    The Quality Inspector checking the finish out

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  15. #15
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    Looking good!

    Why did you leave the back window in when everything else was stripped out?

  16. #16
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HoonBoy View Post
    Looking good!

    Why did you leave the back window in when everything else was stripped out?
    I window seals have gone all hard we had to take the front screen out for the roll cage and busted the glass doing it, so we decided to leave the rear one in. I wish I did take it out as it is always going to be messy masking around the rubber. Hopefully I can find another front screen easily.
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  17. #17
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    The fronts always break, the backs don't, I hard to buy a new front but still have two spare rears. New glass is easy to get, even windscreens obrien can get it for you. Rubbers were hard to find but are now available from Phil's Rotary's ebay store.

  18. #18
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    there were two types of factory flares, the LA WRC ones which had a square lip and the LA and LB GSR Ralliart ones which were a very round shape. Lots of guys back in the day would run Group C LH Torana flares and man they looked tough.

    Galant wagon diff was an inch or so wider than stock lancer and was about as wide as you could go with the LB flares.

    CAMS have homologation papers on request if you really wanted this detail but IMHO go the LH torana flares.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  19. #19
    free hugs! Paddington's Avatar
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    Re: SIII RX-7 diff - sorry, no idea. But first gen centres are interchangeable, I'm not sure if it is only a particular series though. And yes, RX-4 is 4x110 and the 4x110 PCD blows chunks.
    Ausrotary diff thread might help though?
    http://ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2695
    Quote Originally Posted by Stix Z
    i'm upset i lost that video of that aboriginal woman taking a dump on a train that was on youtube
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim
    Sorry, am late to this thread. I have been protesting against whitey oppressors all morning with my people. I shall serenade this thread with my didge until nash comes in and puts it all into perspective.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sketchypimp
    the crumbs are the best bits of the golden gaytimes

  20. #20
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    The rally car ran a factory 4.6 and on the circuit it was way too low. around 4.3 seemed to be the best compromise between legs and acceleration, though with the motor and power you're going to have you may end up back to the stock 3.8 area.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  21. #21
    Stooge MrBishi's Avatar
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    Many years ago I'm fairly sure that I measured up a 4x4 Nissan 720 rear diff as being a pretty good fit. The centres were interchangable with S12 gazelle and S3 bluebird, but I think LSD centres were few and far between.
    Otherwise I think that the very early 4x4 hiluxes were also a close fit.

    I ended up putting the venerable 9" in to my LA.

  22. #22
    free hugs! Paddington's Avatar
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    ^ sorry for the O/T, but out of interest, how much was your 9inch conversion MrBishi? I should have gone that way for my Mazda in hindsight.
    Quote Originally Posted by Stix Z
    i'm upset i lost that video of that aboriginal woman taking a dump on a train that was on youtube
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim
    Sorry, am late to this thread. I have been protesting against whitey oppressors all morning with my people. I shall serenade this thread with my didge until nash comes in and puts it all into perspective.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sketchypimp
    the crumbs are the best bits of the golden gaytimes

  23. #23
    Stooge MrBishi's Avatar
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    @sv_i - Hard to quantify as I did the work myself over a fairly long period of time. I think it ended up oweing me about $3K, but bear in mind that I went a bit silly with overkill items - 31spline billet axles, true track centre, new gears, billet pinion support etc.
    The actual conversion to the housing is simple enough - shortened axle tubes and simple leaf spring hangers. The expensive parts are the axles.

  24. #24
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    I have finished off most of the paintwork now and got it back together. We played around with some slicks and rims today, i put 205x60x15 up front and 225x60x15 at the back. The 60 profile definently looks too tall I will have to go down to a 50 series or looking into 14" mags.

    I am about to order in a set of flares to help fit the tyres and trying to find different front splitters but not having much luck.

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  25. #25
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    That's looking good. I would say the tyres are too big, 205/60x15 rubbed on the front of the guards when turning the wheels when my car was stock. The same size rally tyres rub on the rear now that it is lowered.

  26. #26
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HoonBoy View Post
    That's looking good. I would say the tyres are too big, 205/60x15 rubbed on the front of the guards when turning the wheels when my car was stock. The same size rally tyres rub on the rear now that it is lowered.
    I am going to have to run flares and chop the guards to make them clear. I was suprised the front fitted it just cleared the stock strut. Those wheels are 25mm offset I have seen a 0 offset pair that I like they will definety need the flares.

    I am not looking forward to price of the 50 series semis over the 60 series.
    B&N Performance Engineering - 4Bangers & Mash Racing
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  27. #27
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    Thought you would of done the chopping before the paint?? Make sure you do the castor before the chopping, I can't go as far as the suspension guy wanted without custom radius rods and chopping the guards.

  28. #28
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HoonBoy View Post
    Thought you would of done the chopping before the paint?? Make sure you do the castor before the chopping, I can't go as far as the suspension guy wanted without custom radius rods and chopping the guards.
    Yeah I should have cut them first, but wasn't sure if I was going to need the flares.

    Any hints on some good starting settings for the suspension?? I assume some more positive caster and lots of neg camber? I have my GH scorpian (I liked your swap faq btw) struts coming on Monday, I also asked them to include the lower control arms, I am hoping they are longer to give me some more track and negative camber. I will have to find some longer radius rods to keep the castor in place maybe I can make use of the scorpian ones aswell.
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  29. #29
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    Sigma/Scorpion control arms should be longer and bolt in, I will try it one day. I was going for -3.5-4.0 camber and 5 caster but only got to -2 camber and 3 caster with my current setup.

  30. #30
    Runs on Astron power! karl_2ltGC's Avatar
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    For the diff, consider a scorpian diff(not a GE scorp they have same diff as galants)... i have a 3.3 in my galant thats welded and its proven to be adequate(disc brake too), they are a bit wider, but its not by that much, i just pumped my gaurds rather dogily to fit 13x7's.
    Edit - to use the scorp diff, you just weld on some mounts for the leafs and jobs done, tailshaft lines up fine, though you will have to bugger about for handbrake cable, but race cars dont need handbrakes(neither does my galannt )

    For the front end, i run GH green leg front struts(the brake caliper mount bolts to the strut so any future upgrade will be made easier), they have been shortened with coilovers and run camira strut inserts, ive also got custom strut tops to adjust caster/camber.

    If your going run stock brakes at the front, a set of bendix ultimates~$100, a couple of calliper reco kits~$15each and new rotors~$40each will work sort of ok, just depends how much mumbo you have.

    For the front end setup i run 2.5 degrees neg camber on the street and 4.5 on the track. Cant remember the castor settings, been ages since work was done.
    Last edited by karl_2ltGC; 05-10-08 at 08:50 PM.
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