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Thread: LB Lancer Track Car

  1. #91
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLAYA View Post
    that tube is larger then usually used, have a look at every WRC car, they use it to strengthen that junction, usually around 20 cm long from what i seen.

    I mean the door bars terminate in the middle of the hoop too....
    There's a difference between a gusset and running a diagonal that joins two unsupported mid spans.
    Have a good look at pics of DTM cages, WRC cages and V8 supers. apart from some short corner gusseting, you'll find no unsupported load paths.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  2. #92
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RESON8 View Post
    Hoonboy or Jim do you anything about the Lancer a175 diff? I might be able to get one with a 3.9ratio and mech LSD but I don't know anything about them and how much power they can take.
    I will go and measure it up tomorrow.
    I can't remember diff codes sorry, but if hoonboy recons they swap in and it's the type I remember then it's a clutch type LSD. Stock they are a bit soft but you can shim them up pretty easy and they are quite effective.

    I don't know how hoonboy keeps breaking things coz all the people I knew with 2.6 astrons and supercharged saturns used to explode bellhousings and corkscrew tailshafts before they ever broke a diff. In my 10 years of owning the rally car the diff and gearbox never failed ever, though the LSD was pretty much shagged by then.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


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    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  3. #93
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    I picked up the engine on the weekend and spent all morning at Upullit checking out different engine mounts.
    I was going to pull some RWD mounts out of a L300 van that runs a SOHC 4G63 but then saw a mitsubishi ute that also had a SOHC 4G63 engine, the mounts looked the same and when I measured up the block it was a narrow block motor. After a lot of stuffing around and lack of engine crane I got the mounts out and home, every thing bolted straight up. Here are some pics of the engine in the bay.





    The Ute mounts, I don't think the rubber section will last too long so I am looking around for stiffer mounts or I will just weld them up solid.


    Clearance to the firewall for the CAS and rear water plumbing are tight but better then expected. In this picture there is 60mm clearance between the flange of the thermostat housing and the firewall and the engine is leaning back. I will massage this area and neaten it all up for more clearance once the engine is back out.



    I am going to start fitting up the gearbox now I did try to drop it in connected to the engine but it was to tight, the box with bell housing is almost as long as the engine bay opening.
    I put the spirit level on the engine and it is leaning rearwards, I have heard that it is good to have it leaning slightly rearwards and not flat does anyone have tips of how much a lean is good?
    Last edited by RESON8; 23-02-09 at 03:41 PM. Reason: Fixed up a picture
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  4. #94
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    i would be checking your angles on your tail shaft, if your diff is up say 2 degrees, the gearbox out put shaft should be pointing down say 2 degrees etc.
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  5. #95
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    I have played around with the gearbox height and matched it as close as I could to the diff, there was a lot of massaging that had to be done to the tunnel to make it fit. I am going to put a hole/grommet in the side of the tunnel so I can get easy access to the oil filler bolt as it quite tight around there.

    I just finished making up the crossmember, it came in 1kg under the factory one and has lots of strength.

    One issue that came up was the shifter position it is too far forwards a good two inches infront of the stock position I am struggling to reach 1st and 2nd when strapped in, it will be worse when I install a short shifter. So I am on the hunt for another W58 but with a more rearwards shifter position.





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  6. #96
    Runs on Astron power! karl_2ltGC's Avatar
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    I know you can get rid of the rear water housing and modify some action to get a water outlet at the front of the motor.

    Check out http://forums.austarion.com/ i think you might find some stuff on their. My engineer was doing one a little while back, wasnt too difficult (just a bit of alloy cut an weld), saves space at back of motor and you can run regular water lines.
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  7. #97
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    If your really want build a nice dog leg shifter to get you out of trouble for now?
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  8. #98
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    i was going to suggest the same thing damit!

    anyway, saves getting another box.

    So ETA to mallala skids?
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  9. #99
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    A short shifter will make it better, you won't have to move it as far forwards to be in gear. With a bend in the shifter, it should be fine.

    What diff do you line it up against? I'm thinking I will need to get the Hilux diff it place in mine before I do the final alignment, I can't see the stock diff having the output in the same spot.

  10. #100
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    I just matched it up against the stocker diff, when I get the diff converted I will get them to set it up the same as this one. If it doesn't quite match the diff I can always move the box up or down with shims, there is still a lot of clearance to go up.

    I picked up another box today out of a 1g-gte supra the shifter hole is about 2.5" more rearwards, it is in a much nicer position now and should be even nicer once the short shifter goes in. The pic shows the new position the black mark on the tunnel about 2.5" infront of the shifter is where the other one used to line up. I might still give the idea of the dog leg shifter a go, now I have the spare shifter laying around to cut up.
    Anyone looking for a W58 with an 18" shifter position let me know I now have one spare.



    I have stripped the car down to the shell tonight and finished off the seam welding in the cabin, I am looking forwards to having the interior all painted but not looking forwards to having to do it.

    I am hoping to have the car out on the track mid this year, it all depends on funds and what bargins I can pick up.
    Last edited by RESON8; 27-02-09 at 10:29 PM.
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  11. #101
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by karl_2ltGC View Post
    I know you can get rid of the rear water housing and modify some action to get a water outlet at the front of the motor.

    Check out http://forums.austarion.com/ i think you might find some stuff on their. My engineer was doing one a little while back, wasnt too difficult (just a bit of alloy cut an weld), saves space at back of motor and you can run regular water lines.
    Karl I have looked into this but was worried about the water flow issues at the back of the head.
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  12. #102
    Runs on Astron power! karl_2ltGC's Avatar
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    I'd be very suprised if it was an issue.

    Can i request some pics of seam welding in the cabin, I'm interested in were the appropriate areas for seam welding are.
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  13. #103
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    so glad that my crossmember isn't looking dodgy as now thanks for the crossmember pics.
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  14. #104
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by karl_2ltGC View Post
    I'd be very suprised if it was an issue.

    Can i request some pics of seam welding in the cabin, I'm interested in were the appropriate areas for seam welding are.
    I will post some pictures up this week, it was the first time I have done it so I have endend up doing it to every seam in the car.
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  15. #105
    Runs on Astron power! karl_2ltGC's Avatar
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    Whats the deal with the gearbox in this thing? Hows thats all bolt in and stuff. my galant will probably need something better than the jap sigma 5spd after it gets its next tune.
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  16. #106
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    Karl here are some pictures of the seam welding, like I said earlier I am not a pro. The gearbox bolted straight up using a bellhousing from Dellow then you need to run the 2lt jap flywheel and pressure plate then find a clutch disc the same size but with the supra spline.





    I also finished painting the cabin tonight what a pain in the arse that was I wouldn't wish that upon anyone. It is definetly yellow as well as everything else in the shed that I forgot to cover.

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  17. #107
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    Updates?

  18. #108
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    Hoonboy, I haven't done a lot we are in the process of putting a new kitchen in so that has taken up a lot of time.

    In saying that the engine is nearly ready to go back in, some of the RWD conversion issues have been resolved

    - Water pump done, came off an L200 ute but using the vr4 pump flange pushed on nearly all the way this puts it inline with the front section of the harmonic balancer. I had to trim a fair bit of meat off the pump housing to clear the DOHC timing gear (Pump suits SOHC). I also had a speedflow fitting welded onto the back of the pump where a heater hose would usually go, this will be the turbo water return. Also picked up and EVO III water pulley they are meant to be larger in diameter so should underdrive the pump.

    - Alternator has been relocated to the other side of the block to give more room for water pump inlet, plus the jayracing relocation kit looks sexy.
    - The back of the head has been sorted for clearance, I am using a datsun 180b thermostate elbow and a 6mm alloy adaptor plate that I had watercut. I still have to get a fitting on the top welded on, it is a speed flow fitting with a 1/8NPT thread I will use this to bleed the air out of the 180b elbow. This whole setup sticks out less then the CAS so firewall clearance should be good.

    - Cut front off the NA manifold that I had and have set it up for a XF throttle body (flange currently tacked in place till I can get it to the welder), blanking plates have been made up for the other end of the manifold and EGR valve.

    Today we finished replacing all of the timing gear and pulling the balance shafts out of the motor so it is slowly getting there just have to sort out the flywheel and clutch combo then I can put it all in the car Also got some RX7 series7 calipers here to fit up.

    Here are some pics

    The camera didn't show the red up it is much darker in colour.




    RWD Water pump alternator relocated.


    Speedflow fitting for turbo water return.


    Jayracing alternator relocation kit, alternator needs a clean.


    Rear water outlet


    6mm Adaptor flange, line up to all the holes.


    180b thermostate elbow, line up with the two top bolt holes once I increased the diameter of the holes in the elbow. Speedflow fitting on the top to bleed the air off, currently held in place with a bolt till I can get it welded on.
    Last edited by RESON8; 20-06-09 at 11:40 PM.
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  19. #109
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    No fair, putting in a new kitchen was my excuse for no progress!

    In saying that, you've done a buttload of work, looking real good. It's a change to see someone list all the changes needed for a RWD setup. Are you still using the Scorpion struts?? If so, will be interested in the brake conversion details. Any reason you went RX7 over Skyline 4-pots that every man and his dog seems to use?

  20. #110
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    All the info is out there but is was a matter of putting it all together, and a lot of the conversions are very dodge. I don't mind sharing how I am doing it as it helps out a lot of the other guys like us who are doing all the work themself.

    I went the rx7's over everything else because they were going for a good price ($200 with rotors). I don't think that I will be able to use the rx7 rotor as they are very tall and will set themself too far inboard so the caliper adaptor will be hard to make strong. I am looking into using some think like the wrx rotor I think it is DBA part number 5000.

    I do have what I think are GH Scorpion struts but they weren't green in colour and have KYB stamped on them, maybe they are after market a friend has a pair of green sturts so I can compare them but they definetly have the 4 bolts holes that you mount the caliper adaptor plate onto.
    Last edited by RESON8; 21-06-09 at 06:35 PM.
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  21. #111
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    Not a lot more progress, I have been stuffing around with different starter motors and flywheels hoping to get a VR4 flywheel/clutch fitted up but no luck with getting the starter to mesh to ring gear looks like I will have to make do with a sigma flywheel.

    New mounts are done, definetly a lot stiffer then the old rubber ones.

    I took the original urethane mount and cut the urethane out of it then used the top and bottom plates to make the new ones.


    I made a jig to hold the top and bottom plate in the correct postions so I could build them up out of the car. Plus I can make spares.


    End result in the car.


    I also had a chance to check clearance for the rear water outlet to the firewall, there is much more room then I thought I shouldn't have any issues getting the rear water pipe on.


    And inlet manifold all converted to RWD with a XF falcoon throttle body, I had a few of the extra fittings welded up to make it look cleaner.
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  22. #112
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    Been busy buying up bits and pieces for the car since the last update, hopefully I have got most of the expensive items now.

    I had a Kelway turbo manifold made up to highmount a garret turbo, I am very happy with the fit and finish of the manifold I highly recommend Chris. The turbo looked pretty small in the box, only Gt30 comp housing, but it really filled the engine bay out nicely, it's starting to look complete.





    The pretty purple fuel rail is starting to grow on me, it was meant to bolt straight up but will need some different spacers and bolts to work.


    I also bought a computer and I'm in the process of wiring it up.


    I also bought a pair of RX7 series6 calipers and had some 8mm spacers made up so they can take a 30mm rotor, they included new pad guide pins to suit but were too short I am still waiting on replacements. At this stage I am thinking of using VE V6 front rotors, they are 298x30mm and can be had pretty cheaply.

    I have trimed over the top of the cracked dash and finished off all of the wiring for car electrics. I got hold of a "momo" wheel off ebay all I need now is some gauges to fill the holes, I was looking at digital dashes but haven't found one for the right price.


    Next steps are to finish wiring up the autronic, get some ls1 coils and do the fuel system. It is getting very close to firing up.
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  23. #113
    Registered User charged's Avatar
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    nearly there, bet you cant wait for the first race meet
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  24. #114
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charged View Post
    nearly there, bet you cant wait for the first race meet
    Really looking forwards to it, hopefully I don't smash it up first time out. Would your gang have any old 225x50x15's laying around that would be suitable for one practice day? I am looking for set so I can get the car rolling on the new rims and to test everything out prior to buying a new set.
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  25. #115
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    Been stuffing around with the diff all weekend, but think I am heading in the right direction with it now. I am going to off load the series3 rx7 diff as it is way too wide and not really worth cutting down, if it was going to be bullet proof I would have had it done but there is was a good chance it would be snapping axles.
    Here is a picture of the rx7 diff with 225's +26 offset rims, only stuck out around 70mm past each guard, not IPRA leagal.



    I have been trying to avoid using a hilux diff as I have been told they are 80-90kg which is way too heavy for my little car. Looked at H190's out of a s3 bluebird but it is only slightly narrower then the rx7 diff. I spent the weekend going between U-pull-its measuring diffs and ended up coming home with a early mazda 929 (rx4 era) diff. I now have to find some 13b 28spline axles and spider gears to drop into the housing. If iuse the 929 housing instead of the rx4 13b housing it give me a larger selection of gears and easier access to LSD's

    Here it is dummied up under the car, it only sticks out around 40mm each side past the factory bodywork so makes it in nicely under the 50mm rule.



    Nearly fits under the small flares that I have fitted up, these will need to be modified to cover the tyre.



    Out of interest if anyone else is looking at these diffs here is asome of the info that I collected on widths and weights.

    LB Stock Width = 1330mm wheel mounting faces
    929 Width = 1420mm wheel mounting faces
    RX7 s3 Width = 1480mm wheel mounting faces

    LB Stock weight = 44.4kg including drums
    929 weight = 63.8kg including drums and mounts as pictured
    RX7 weight = 54.1kg discs on but no calipers

    Pictured from top downwards, Stock LB, 929, RX7 series 3.
    Last edited by RESON8; 22-11-09 at 08:44 PM.
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  26. #116
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    Did you look at a H190 from the 720 ute? I think they are not as wide as the bluebird one.

  27. #117
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HoonBoy View Post
    Did you look at a H190 from the 720 ute? I think they are not as wide as the bluebird one.
    They had one there it measured up to be around 1430mm bloody big looking thing.
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  28. #118
    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    They are big looking, but I can carry one around on my own without any issues so they can't be that heavy. (minus brakes, haven't sorted that yet..)

  29. #119
    Registered User charged's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RESON8 View Post
    Really looking forwards to it, hopefully I don't smash it up first time out. Would your gang have any old 225x50x15's laying around that would be suitable for one practice day? I am looking for set so I can get the car rolling on the new rims and to test everything out prior to buying a new set.
    Rob or Clint should have some oldies laying around, talk to Ashley he is at the workshop most days and he could get a set for you


    Cheers
    John
    SA IPRA cars 15, 51, 77 and 25
    (Sharperto Racing)


    http://www.iprasa.mx.com.au/

  30. #120
    I got you Pepe Le Bitch RESON8's Avatar
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    I haven't had a lot of progress lately I been too busy with other projects but I have managed to sort out most of my issue converting from cable to hydraulic clutch. I got hold of an AP Racing pull style master cheap off ebay, the plan is to mount it inside of the cabin below the clutch pivot.

    This is how it ended up, it is mounted up off the one of attach points for the steering column once I am happy with get a bolt the right length a piss off some of the spacers. It all seems pretty solid and travels very freely I will see how it goes once I bleed it up. I also have to see if I can have the fluid inlet on the side like I have done.



    I also took delivery of a custom billet 2L sigma flywheel it came in at 5kg, the motor should rev up nicely.
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