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Thread: The next project - painting the shed floor

  1. #1
    Saving Ol Skool Mitsi's
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    The next project - painting the shed floor

    Found a similar thread but is was a few years old so thought I'd post up my recent experience. From the author of the Petrol Bowser and Old Skool Fridge restoral threads comes : A beginners guide to painting your shed floor .

    Buying the paint
    First step was to decide on the type of paint. A mate just did his small shed in a Single Pack finish and he's happy with it but I did a bit of net searching and the overwhelming opinion was that a 2 pack Epoxy was a good option. I wasn't that keen to spend the money but I figured it's not something I'll have to do again ( I hope ). I went down to Paint Supplies of SA and bought 20 litres of the stuff at $20 a litre - I had to paint 60 square metres of floor. They were really good with advice and threw in some brushes and Acid for the etching.

    The supplies :


    Preparation
    First thing was to clear the shed - 4 cars and a lot of crap had to go! I then swept and washed the floor with Sugar Soap and let it dry over night. The next day I mixed up a 7.5 to 1 mixture of Hydrochloric Acid and water. The bottle said 10 to 1, the Paint shop said 5 to 1. I figured I'd go half way. I mopped the whole floor and left it for 30 minutes before hosing it all down and leaving it overnight. I had a day to spare so gave it another weak Sugar Soap mop and left it to dry over night again ( was doing it during the week so it dried while I was at work ).

    Waiting to dry after acid etch:



    Application
    Now for the painting. I mixed the paint and hardener with one of those mixers you put in a drill. Application was in 2 coats. The first night I began by painting the edge of the section I was doing with a brush and also inside the expansion joints. Having the joints on the floor helped as I was able to paint in 6 sections. Once all the outside of each section was done, I then poured the paint into a paint tray and applied with a roller on an extension pole. I've heard of people just pouring the paint on to the concrete instead of using the tray but I found this made a thorough mess and I couldn't seem to get consistency. Using the tray probably took longer but on different sections I tried both ways and settled on the tray. I did one coat then left it overnight to harden. After 24 hours I did the second coat the same way I did the first - 6 sections and did all the edges first. After the first coat dried it really looked thin and patchy but the second coat seemed to make it all better.

    During first coat - still looks a bit patchy :


    Drying time
    I left it 24 hours between coats and it's now been 3 days since the last coat. The specs say it should be ok now but seeing it's dam cold here I might wait till the end of the week before I move the cars back

    Finished product :


    Summary of cost and supplies
    20 litres of paint - $400
    Hydrochloric Acid - $14 ( got it for free though )
    Cheap mop - $12 at Bunnings
    2 Brushes - $6 ( one for each coat )
    2 rollers - $12 ( one for each coat )
    Sugar Soap - about $5

    Hopefully this thread may help if you're considering painting your shed .
    Last edited by Sirius18T; 07-07-08 at 10:59 PM.

  2. #2
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Hmmm, does look the goods. But $400 isnt a pretty figure.
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    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    Really MUST do the same here, but im wondering if the acid will be strong enough to strip the concrete floor here. 20 years of dirt being driven into it, the odd oil spill, all into largely unsealed concrete, i think i might have to get it blasted by a professional (see expensive!)

    Quote Originally Posted by takai View Post
    Hmmm, does look the goods. But $400 isnt a pretty figure.
    For a quality finish on an area that size, i dont see it that expensive. You could just buy the commercial paint stuff that is surposed to be hard wearing, but everyone i know who has used it ended up with it being worn off by constant traffic and/or heavy objects. If the surface lasts 10 years, thats pretty bloody cheap going IMHO.
    Last edited by Madhatr; 07-07-08 at 11:12 PM.
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    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    Iv coated my floor with oil, its heaps cheaper too!
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    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Every time it rains here i seem to get oil/brake fluid leeching out from the concrete
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    Opens HoonBoy's Avatar
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    Very nice, I've been saying I will do this for about four years. Having somewhere to put everything whilst I do it is the problem.

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    Registered User charged's Avatar
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    Just put up a garage and wondering how long the concrete has to be down before can hit it with acid. Mines oil free so far and want to do it beofre the cars go in there. Looks the goods mate
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    Saving Ol Skool Mitsi's
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    I'm lucky as I've got a fair bit of under cover space that I've been able to stash all the shed stuff under for now. The backyard is a shambles but everything is out of the weather. I reckon it's been almost a year since the concrete was laid. I'd wanted to paint it sooner but after you wait a few months for the concrete to completely dry, then start using the shed for bits and pieces, the job seems to get harder and harder!

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    Looks superb, if its dry and sunny at all this week I'm due for a shed clean-out and I'll photograph my single pack job after 5 years of use, chipped in a few places and a few other problems (lost one patch when I spilt paint stripper on it, not surprising really).

    Will say one thing, you should have used white, the racecar workshop I work for uses light grey and my garage is white, easily double the reflected light under cars.
    Don't worry, thats just the self-preservation instinct, in my experience you can safely ignore it.

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    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    looks tops!

    to put it into perspective it cost $70 to paint my little workshop in jet-dry and it lasted less than a year.
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    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

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    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Anyone used PaveStain, heard some guys on the Clubbies forum raving about it.
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    I'll put my input in to this, having over christmas epoxy painted a concrete floor area for an anodising lab thats 24 metres long by 12 metres wide......

    We sugar soap'd as well, found it didnt do shit all regardless of the mixture and instead just made it all spotless form dust (air blower's+screw compressor+several hours with a broom).

    Firstly, Hydrochloric solution, go as much as 4:1 or 5:1.....use gloves etc and all the basic safety precautions, scrub with a stiff bristled broom, actually scrub hard. You need to remove all oxidising agents from the concrete otherwise the epoxy will later lift.

    Problem we had with our floor is that for the previous 4 years it had a constant exposure to nitric acid, and caustic solution.....= Some parts were just permanantly wet and you could pull the slab apart by hand.... We removed as much loose concrete/lime as possible, and repaired with a thorough flushing in fresh water, blow drying, and putting a quick set concrete mix and fairing the surface again (by hand, it took 2 full days...).

    The epoxy we used was West systems, mainly because he got a good deal on it, still 2000 dollars or so.

    Laying the epoxy down on the perfectly clean and dry floor first proved to be a real nightmare I gradually worked out that using almost exactly 50ml of a good quality thinner (7020? some shit like that) to every 1500ml of epoxy mix was just the right viscosity to be rolled.

    I advise heavily against pouring epoxy down and expecting it to spread......

    We let it sit for 24hours before doing a 2nd coat in a much thinner mix (more like 1/10 thinners) that was applied by long roller fairly easily as a sealant layer. Presentation wise, doing a thinned out coat applied with a foam roller, will look brilliant.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

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    Tectaloy Chemist oxy's Avatar
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    PM Boothy. I think he knows where to get some good paint

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    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Hm, i wonder if lumpy does any concrete paint.
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    Shit Borx! cya18r's Avatar
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    Is that epoxy stuff non-slip?
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    The royal penis is clean tremolo's Avatar
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    Looks great, I need to do similar with my garage

    How does concrete polish/sealant compare (price-wise) to paint? I presume it would be a dickload more

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cracka View Post
    I'll put my input in to this, having over christmas epoxy painted a concrete floor area for an anodising lab thats 24 metres long by 12 metres wide......

    We sugar soap'd as well, found it didnt do shit all regardless of the mixture and instead just made it all spotless form dust (air blower's+screw compressor+several hours with a broom).

    Firstly, Hydrochloric solution, go as much as 4:1 or 5:1.....use gloves etc and all the basic safety precautions, scrub with a stiff bristled broom, actually scrub hard. You need to remove all oxidising agents from the concrete otherwise the epoxy will later lift.

    Problem we had with our floor is that for the previous 4 years it had a constant exposure to nitric acid, and caustic solution.....= Some parts were just permanantly wet and you could pull the slab apart by hand.... We removed as much loose concrete/lime as possible, and repaired with a thorough flushing in fresh water, blow drying, and putting a quick set concrete mix and fairing the surface again (by hand, it took 2 full days...).

    The epoxy we used was West systems, mainly because he got a good deal on it, still 2000 dollars or so.

    Laying the epoxy down on the perfectly clean and dry floor first proved to be a real nightmare I gradually worked out that using almost exactly 50ml of a good quality thinner (7020? some shit like that) to every 1500ml of epoxy mix was just the right viscosity to be rolled.

    I advise heavily against pouring epoxy down and expecting it to spread......

    We let it sit for 24hours before doing a 2nd coat in a much thinner mix (more like 1/10 thinners) that was applied by long roller fairly easily as a sealant layer. Presentation wise, doing a thinned out coat applied with a foam roller, will look brilliant.
    so how much do u want to help me do 80sqm's?

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    Quote Originally Posted by takai View Post
    Hm, i wonder if lumpy does any concrete paint.
    Maybe you should ask him

    Conrete stain is an interesting thing - it doesn't (shouldn't!) give a film on the surface and thus you won't have issues with bubbling/delamination. It also won't protect your conrete though - oil spills and whatnot will probably still soak in unless the surface is sealed. They do a fair bit of it in the USA - can get some amazing effects/finishes using different colour stains and clear/semi-transparent sealers.

    For really shitty concrete we used to do some awesome 100% solids 2K epoxy - it was clear and penetrated deep into crumbly concrete, binding it up to a hard usable surface. Sadly we don't do that anymore.....
    Yes we Chemistry

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    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Heh, i was going to PM you, but hadnt gotten around to it.

    I wonder how a tin of white stain would go with a clear sealer.... You guys do anything like that?
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    Sirius18T I'd leave it a bit longer than a week in this weather - unless you have some special low temp curing epoxy they usually need a bit warmth to fully cure - it's a chemical reaction and the warmer it is, the faster it cures.
    Yes we Chemistry

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    Registered User 260BC's Avatar
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    So lumpy what prices can you do? I'm thinking one pack, acrlyic or oil based?

    edit - you are in adelaide, duh me.
    Last edited by 260BC; 08-07-08 at 01:51 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 260DET View Post
    So lumpy what prices can you do? I'm thinking one pack, acrlyic or oil based?

    edit - you are in adelaide, duh me.
    Thanks to tightfisted corporate policies, my ability to help people out has been limited a bit (but I still try).

    However, there have been many garage floor threads before containing a wide range of inputs/ideas.

    The main issues are basically - oil/petrol resistance, penetration/adhesion to concrete, resistance to hot (and hot/wet) tyre pickup, drying times and moisture resistance. 2-pack epoxy is the classic, and most common and pretty cheap really. Other options include moisture cure urethane (solvent based, single pack, great durability but more expensive), water based epoxy (can be good, can be crap).

    Personally I wouldn't go near a waterbased single pack acrylic for a garage that was actually used to fix things in.
    Yes we Chemistry

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    Asshole rorge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim510 View Post
    so how much do u want to help me do 80sqm's?
    Let us know if you want another set of hands! (i've done a few floors before) This would complete your garage!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rorge View Post
    Let us know if you want another set of hands! (i've done a few floors before) This would complete your garage!
    definately mate thanks

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    I'm no major expert but its not difficult to scrub a floor and mix up some resin on kitchen scales and roll it out. pfbeerandshedsday?
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

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    This thing works !

    I did this epoxy thing in my garage
    Yes was expensive and is a bitch to apply with rollers

    But results are amazing - Mine is about 2 years old now and probably hosed down twice and use my garage a lot for social seatings etc as well as occasionally park cars

    Still looks new

  27. #27
    Opens Paydirt's Avatar
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    Well I recently undertook the same procedure, epoxying my shed floor. I am currently doing a whole project thread on my house, but since this has come up, I'll post it in here.

    I looked at water based solvents and some other sealants, but in the end I spent the extra dollars as I want the finish to last.

    My shed floor was pretty much brand new and had little exposure to cars and whatnot, so I had a pretty good base to start with. I used pool acid at a mixture of 5:1 to take the top off the concrete. I did it twice as the first time I just used the broom to move it around. It didn't quite take off enough. 2nd time I ended up pouring it all over the floor, let it sit for a while, and then broomed it around.

    Once done and dried, I used a vacuum cleaner and old mop to remove all the concrete dust. This was time consuming as it wasn't easy and very hard to get it all up.

    The product I used was an industrial grade called Mastertop 1080 from BASF, as I rang around a few places that do it commercially and they seem to all use it. It's been used in all the Hino workshops around the country. I also found that I was able to purchase it almost $100 cheaper straight from BASF. They sell it in a kit form ( 1 x 10ltr drum of paint, 1 x 8.8ltr of hardener, and 4 colour packs) where you can mix the hardener straight in the buckets they're supplied in(the paint is in a 20ltr bucket). Cost was $473.

    Painting I just used the cheapest 12mm NAP roller I could find. The fella at BASF recommended I didn't thin the mix down, as he said you'd only making it too thin on the floor, and it should be perfect at the consistency they provide. My roller was able to fit in the bucket so I just dipped the roller into he bucket and then painted around. I actually knocked over the bucket at one stage and then spread it around, which I found worked well. Actually used this method a lot more on the second coat.

    My shed floor is 6m x 9m and I was able to do 2 coats. First coat I let sit for 18 hours as they recommended, then did 2nd coat. 2nd coat must be down within 36 hours. Don't be stingy on the mix when applying, I found the best results when applying quite a thick coat, as I had a tiny bit left over in the end, hence could have probably gone thicker in points.

    All in all I'm extremely happy with the result. At under $500 and a few days work., I think it's money well spent. Looks good, and works a treat. Now just to get the hoist installed.

    Here are some pics

    Painting the 1st coat


    1st coat done


    2nd coat done
    The customer.

  28. #28
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    I did mine with 2 pak paving paint...seems to hold up ok....not as nice as that epoxy finish tho.
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    one will withstand brake fluid, and a spillage of toluene....other wont. take your pick.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  30. #30
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    Thanks for the heads up lumpy. I moved some shelves and bits and pieces in there tonight but I reckon I will take your advice and wait a while before the cars go back in.

    The finish on your floor looks great Paydirt!

    Reading all the posts I reckon I'd do a few things different if I had my time again :

    - mix the acid stronger - go 5 to 1
    - apply the paint thicker - I had a tin left over so somehow only used 16 litres
    - wear the mask/respirator doing the first coat - it's strong stuff! ( I learnt my lesson for the second coat )
    - maybe wait until it's a bit warmer so it will dry quicker

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