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Thread: The next project - painting the shed floor

  1. #541
    Mechanical 'Tard Cliffordcliffs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by South View Post
    Yeah, good one. How about posting pictures of what you've done?
    Last edited by Cliffordcliffs; 05-06-17 at 07:58 PM. Reason: Actually, that's fucking cool. Saving for future reference
    "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

  2. #542
    Registered User Potsy's Avatar
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    So to keep up with the Jones's, i decided to get my garage floor done in the "Paint Flake" finish thats popular nowadays.
    Colour is called "Gunflint"
    I think it turned out OK.
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  3. #543
    This space left blank Ben Wilson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Potsy View Post
    Colour is called "Gunflint"
    Why not just call it "where the fuck did the bolt go?"
    Imagination is more important than knowledge.

  4. #544
    Registered User Potsy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Wilson View Post
    Why not just call it "where the fuck did the bolt go?"
    Yep, no working on cars in this garage, have the driveway out the front for that.

  5. #545
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Potsy View Post
    Yep, no working on cars in this garage, have the driveway out the front for that.
    WOT?

    Paint the fucking driveway then you penis.
    Jason Broadhurst

    Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

  6. #546
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    My turn to lay down some epoxy..

    The floor I want to do it to has already had a bondcrete or similar coating applied when they built it about 5 years ago. Will an acid etch remove that shit or do I need to do something else first?

  7. #547
    Registered User GSRman's Avatar
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    the 'acid' etch that comes with the kits won't do shizzle.... either have to be something compatible or take it all off...
    This is a post i wrote by mistake, which is nice...

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  8. #548
    wat Jack Nicholson's Avatar
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    Spent ages looking for this thread in PF Cribs, far out...

    Anyhow... The last few weeks of working on cars, jacking, jack stands, dropping tools & shit has left my garage floor with a few scars...







    There's a dozen if not more coin sized spots where the concrete underneath was weak / powdery, and now the epoxy has just come off, taking some concrete with it.

    Actually a few spots where the wheels of the trolley jack rolled with the weight of the car on it it actually sunk in to the concrete by a millimetre or so, and then the epoxy lifted when I was sweeping the floor with a broom.

    Yes the concrete is shit, but this is what I've got...

    This was the Bunnings Dy-Mark kit that I stretched out & put on thin to make it cover double the area that it sez on the tin.

    It's pissing me off pretty badly, I'd like to buy another Dy-Mark kit and go over the thin parts, and cover these spots where it lifted.

    But can you put epoxy over epoxy? What sort of surface prep would be needed?

    For sure it needs a thorough clean and degrease (lots of greasy spots, maybe you can even see in the pics) but to get the epoxy to adhere would some sort of mechanical abrasion be needed?

    Any tips from the experts?
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  9. #549
    whaddayatalkinabeet brasher's Avatar
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    yep keen to know, the harley kicks stand has fucked multiple patches of my epoxy now and my trolley jack has marked the floor heaps

  10. #550
    Mechanical 'Tard Cliffordcliffs's Avatar
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    the kit I had mentioned you would need to go over the surface with a angle grinder to allow the new coating to 'key' in. So basically remove all of it.
    "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

  11. #551
    wat Jack Nicholson's Avatar
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    Well that sucks... what about a wire wheel on an angle grinder to scuff it up a bit?
    Jaguar XJR, Freelander 2 HSE, Jaguar XKR

    Quote Originally Posted by Marv View Post
    Look, just because you drive a couple of imported luxo Pommy cars doesn't mean you need to act like an Imperialistic Lapdog and be the last bastion of defence for Straya The Beaut's mid-20th-Century ideals

  12. #552
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Nicholson View Post
    Well that sucks... what about a wire wheel on an angle grinder to scuff it up a bit?
    Don't think that will do much besides polish it or flick the paint off. If it is pulling concrete off with the paint I don't know if painting it again will help.

  13. #553
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    The issue is that you didn't prep the surface prior to painting. Your substrate/concrete needs to be ground to make a surface that won't lift. You can roughen the epoxy up with a brumby disc and paint over the top. Also use a screw driver around the areas that have lifted to remove the additional areas. Epoxy should be stonger than the concretE. Won't resolve the other failures that will occur.

    You will be up for about $20 per sqm to grind the surface clear of epoxy and powdery concrete.
    Last edited by Hypo; 30-09-17 at 06:19 PM.

  14. #554
    Registered User Gats's Avatar
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    If you don't prep the surface properly, the shit will just come off again in another 6 months.

  15. #555
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    Yes you'd need to mechanically abrade the surface to some extent to get a decent key for the next coat of epoxy.

    If you repaint it "properly" using correct film thickness etc you might find that because the concrete is shitty the epoxy:epoxy bond is stronger and then you get larger patches of failure as it comes off in big sheets.

    I'd do a minimum spec fix in the knowledge it's a maintenance project rather than a do it properly one - grind/sand/flapdisk back the areas around the lifted spots, get some more of the worthless dymark epoxy from Bunnings and just make up small amounts to touch up the spots.
    Yes we Chemistry

  16. #556
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    Can you still etch the slab if a zincalume/colorbond shed is already erected? I rang a manufacture of the etching solution and they said it would corrode the metal it gets in contact with the metal. I should have done this before the shed was erected but didn't know/think. so now I worried I will damage the metal with the etch.

  17. #557
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsp5500 View Post
    Can you still etch the slab if a zincalume/colorbond shed is already erected? I rang a manufacture of the etching solution and they said it would corrode the metal it gets in contact with the metal. I should have done this before the shed was erected but didn't know/think. so now I worried I will damage the metal with the etch.
    Better to grind it.

  18. #558
    Registered User GSRman's Avatar
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    The etchant that came with the stuff i did was citric acid (big bag of crystals) or something - haven't seen any evidence of corrosion - but i was pretty quick to remove it and rinse the shizzle out of it.
    This is a post i wrote by mistake, which is nice...

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  19. #559
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSRman View Post
    The etchant that came with the stuff i did was citric acid (big bag of crystals) or something - haven't seen any evidence of corrosion - but i was pretty quick to remove it and rinse the shizzle out of it.
    This - use a non-hydrochloric acid etch if you are worried about it eating the zinc. Although zincalume often has a really thin layer of clear acrylic coating which would give a little bit of acid splash protection.
    Yes we Chemistry

  20. #560
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    Or just roll some cheap white carpet out. Much nicer to lie on when working on a car.

  21. #561
    Registered User GSRman's Avatar
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    I've got a couple of bags of that etchant left if someone needs.
    This is a post i wrote by mistake, which is nice...

    PF GT5 whore car list https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...thkey=CPKNmOIJ

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