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Thread: The next project - painting the shed floor

  1. #31
    Tectaloy Chemist oxy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim510 View Post
    so how much do u want to help me do 80sqm's?
    I have nfi, but I'll give you a hand if you want

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Moran View Post
    I have nfi, but I'll give you a hand if you want
    stand around drinking cold beers giving me shit?

  3. #33
    Tectaloy Chemist oxy's Avatar
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    Only if you're providing the cold beers

    Can we do some garage skids before you paint the floor?

  4. #34
    Opens Paydirt's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments Sirius. Yeah I was a bit worried about the curing of the floor when painting it, considering it was the beginning of winter and there was rain within the next few days. I did leave it for a week before I parked any cars in there and was even longer before I had a chance to move any of my tools and shelving in there. So if it wasn't cured enough by then, it would never have been.

    Tim I'm in for beers and painting.
    The customer.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  6. #36
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    So nopics and I bought a house on the weekend and job #1 before we move in is to paint the garage floor (approx 6m x 6.5m); I want to do a 2 pack epoxy so I don't have to paint the thing again in 5 years.

    Has anyone used any of the Protec brand stuff?

    20L would be enough to do the 40sqm?

    Does pot life vary between brands?

    Sirius, how's yours holding up after 2 yrs?

  7. #37
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    You need to leave most stuff to cure for around 1-2 weeks guys.

    If you parking a car on it, leave it for a week, then part it on carpet squares for a week.

    The hot rubber will lift the coating and it will stick to your tyres

  8. #38
    is unplugging your matrix aaron_hogan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sssgtr View Post
    So nopics and I bought a house on the weekend and job #1 before we move in is to paint the garage floor (approx 6m x 6.5m); I want to do a 2 pack epoxy so I don't have to paint the thing again in 5 years.

    Has anyone used any of the Protec brand stuff?

    20L would be enough to do the 40sqm?

    Does pot life vary between brands?

    Sirius, how's yours holding up after 2 yrs?
    First up congrats on the purchase. And you're doing the right thing to paint it before you move your shit in there.

    I used to do epoxy floors for a job when i was in Sweden. My boss had been doing it for 30 odd years and said unequivocally ITS ALL THE SAME SHIT. One product to the next. Same same. Value for money he said the single stage water based clear urethane was the hardest wearing. And this is the stuff we laid down in the Central Railway workshops (massive facility), and also in one of those huge supermarket distribution centres (again massive and high forklift traffic) and the other really big place we did this was the Atlas Copco warehouse. He said the last time he laid the coat down in the supermarket warehouse was 10 years prior and it just needed a re-coat in the loading docks and we repaired a few crubled edges and concrete joins here and there.

    I did alot of smaller jobs including the equivalent of the Swedish RTA. In there we used a light grey 2 pack enamel and for slip rating threw the silica onto the surface as a last step.

    Surface prep largely depends on the surface condition to begin with. If its heavily contaminated or uneven the best thing is to hire a concrete grinder and skim the entire surface. Its the worst part of the job - noisy, dusty and your arms will ache from constantly moving the grinder side to side. Then you just vac it all up.

    Not once did i ever use an acid etch. But I can see that in a home garage that would be preferable to hiring concrete grinders and such.

    I would also say don't be too precious about it all. At first i tried to stay clean and do a neat job. That was until my boss laughed at me and literally kicked the bucket over on the floor in front of me! Then we just rolled it out with a big fuck off squeegee. I think the only place we did a very careful job was in the Royal Tennis Club. He'd painted it recently but the club found the red floor was too dark, so he was contracted to come back, strip the floors back and re-paint in beige with stencilled roses. On that one we carefully used rollers and weren't allowed to splash anything.

    You can walk around on the surface if you buy some spike shoes that are like a slip on and velcro job. It doesn't leave marks because the paint is self-levelling.

    As for drying time - go by the manufacturers instructions. 2 pack is epoxy is a chemical reaction yadda yadda. When it cures it cures and usually thats 24 hours.

    In a garage I would go light grey. White is a bit over the top and will show up every mark. Grey is enough to reflect light and be able to find dropped screws and washers against the surface.

    Oh and my biggest regret is that i didn't epoxy the garage floor in the joint i'm renting when i FIRST moved in. 5 years later there is so much junk in there its impossible to even contemplate moving it all to do the floor. (plus oil stains etc over the years).

    Do it while you can.

    HTH - Aaron

  9. #39
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    Thanks aaron, great to hear of someone's perspective who used to do it for a living!

  10. #40
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    I was a bit light on with my application and had a tin leftover - I think from memory I bought 5 tins for my 6mx10m floor. I've found that the tyres on some of my cars have left permanent marks in the paint as some of them sit for a while. I baby the shed floor a fair bit and sweep/mop it regularly so has helped it's condition. The middle section has scrapes from gearboxes and car ramps sliding but overall it's all good. I'm gonna use the leftover tin to paint the middle bay again at some point but will wait until it's a lot worse than it is now.

    Photos don't always show imperfections but you can see some of the floor in this shot:

  11. #41
    Skrrraaaarrrrrk Chase Rockwell's Avatar
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    I'm probably going to sell my house in six months so I need a garage floor coating that will last seven months. Should I use Berger jet dry paving paint ?
    Skrrraaaarrrrrk

  12. #42
    Married but celibate toddy's Avatar
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    Mook

  13. #43
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    Protec quoted me $120 + gst for their 2 pack epoxy kit (8L) and they reckon it'll do 2 coats for a 40sqm garage...sound about right?

  14. #44
    is unplugging your matrix aaron_hogan's Avatar
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    if its a really smooth floor then 8L should do it. If its a bit of a rough surface it will soak up a bit more.

    Get yourself a Sundstrom respirator (actually I will loan you mine if you like - 0417507875).
    Disposable gloves. Disposable overalls or at least wear shoes/clothes that will go in the bin at the end.

    Another suggestion: Consider painting your walls as well as the floor for max light reflection.

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    Hey Aaron,
    Are you still in the game?
    I'd like to do this at my place but don't want to fuck it up.
    PM to discuss further.
    Cheers,
    Simon

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    Quote Originally Posted by sssgtr View Post
    Protec quoted me $120 + gst for their 2 pack epoxy kit (8L) and they reckon it'll do 2 coats for a 40sqm garage...sound about right?
    yeh should be enough mate..

    I used 2x 8L kits to do roughly 90sq's...

    If there are sections that will be high traffic, then try to give them a 3rd coat, can't hurt...

    I used up some of my left overs on some uncleaned and un-prepped floor, and it turned out great as well.

  17. #47
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaron_hogan View Post
    if its a really smooth floor then 8L should do it. If its a bit of a rough surface it will soak up a bit more.

    Get yourself a Sundstrom respirator (actually I will loan you mine if you like - 0417507875).
    Disposable gloves. Disposable overalls or at least wear shoes/clothes that will go in the bin at the end.

    Another suggestion: Consider painting your walls as well as the floor for max light reflection.
    Thanks very much for the offer aaron, but I wouldn't dream of funking up someone else's respirator!!

    Disposable everything sounds like a plan.

    Would you also recommend thinning out the first coat to get better penetration into the concrete?

    I would like to do a 3rd coat especially where the car will be sitting.

    I'm going back to the house sometime this weekend to start measuring up some things, so i'll be having a better look at the condition of the floor. Some oldies lived there until recently so I'm hoping the concrete isn't too dirty!

  18. #48
    Chopped BigMuz's Avatar
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    The more the merrier for sure. Thinning the first coat can help a lot especially if the concrete is fairly porous.

    What protec product is it? $120 is cheap as chips.

  19. #49
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    Epotec 370 muz. That was for their 8L kit.

    An equivalent PPG product was $475.

    The only bad thing that Protec said about their product was that it is tempremental in cold weather, and do it in the summer months. The PPG one isn't.

  20. #50
    Chopped BigMuz's Avatar
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    All epoxies have a threshold cure temperature. They pretty much stop curing under a certain temperature- usually 15 degrees celcius. Thus on a floor the full cure can take days and days if the overnight ground temperature is below 15 (which is a lot of the year really).

    The Wattyl product is around the same money as well for reference.

  21. #51
    What's that whooshing? Aaron's Avatar
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    In the Slum if i ever manage to get the garage empty of my crap and the machine shop that's currently in there - well OK I won't complain if the machines stay - I'm needing to do some floor leveling first as the original slab is pretty rough.

    Do I just create a perimeter edge say 10mm high and get some of the floor leveling motar type stuff, mix up nice and runny pour onto the floor and fill 'er up? Then paint it? Total area would be at least 90sqm. Or is another product better on a cost per sqm basis?


    A.
    ---
    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

  22. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    In the Slum if i ever manage to get the garage empty of my crap and the machine shop that's currently in there - well OK I won't complain if the machines stay - I'm needing to do some floor leveling first as the original slab is pretty rough.

    Do I just create a perimeter edge say 10mm high and get some of the floor leveling motar type stuff, mix up nice and runny pour onto the floor and fill 'er up? Then paint it? Total area would be at least 90sqm. Or is another product better on a cost per sqm basis?


    A.
    I know nothing about this kind of thing, but i'd be doing that shit in manageable sections, not all at once.

  23. #53
    Chopped BigMuz's Avatar
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    Self levelling works best if there are edges for you to spread it around to. You need to do it as per the book though.

    http://www.sika.com.au/cmc/Datasheet...evel25_tds.pdf

  24. #54
    is unplugging your matrix aaron_hogan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VXEXEC View Post
    Hey Aaron,
    Are you still in the game?
    I'd like to do this at my place but don't want to fuck it up.
    PM to discuss further.
    Cheers,
    Simon
    Nah mate, it was just a job I did to survive in scando-land since i couldn't get my dream job of official bikini waxer to the Swedish Volleyball Team.

    As i mentioned there is not alot to it. It really does come down to surface prep. If the surface is heavily contaminated or uneven just hire a floor grinder. This goes for floor levelling too. You want to have a good surface so the slurry goes on at a minimum thickness over teh whole floor. Otherwise you risk it lifting in places or chipping easily.

    There is a place in Albert Street Preston that hires out the floor grinder and sells flooring supplies. The name escapes me at the moment.

  25. #55
    Moderator Cal's Avatar
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    Is this 2 pak epoxy paint flexible?
    The most dangerous risk of all - the risk of spending your life not doing what you want, on the bet you can buy yourself the freedom to do it later. - Randy Komisar.

  26. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by VXEXEC View Post
    Hey Aaron,
    Are you still in the game?
    I'd like to do this at my place but don't want to fuck it up.
    PM to discuss further.
    Cheers,
    Simon
    '

    Simon

    I can put you onto the guy who did mine. You can come and have a look if you like. We used PPG at $440 or so and two years later it still looks ok.

  27. #57
    Registered User PerformanceCar's Avatar
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    Just finished mine this week.. did 2 epoxy layers, then some flake and 2 urethane layers to flatten the flake and stop yellowing. Cal - the test bits i've got round the place are still a little flexible after a week curing.
    turbo e30 318is.

  28. #58
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    looks good dude, how big an area and how much did it set you back to do?

  29. #59
    Registered User PerformanceCar's Avatar
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    standard double - about 36m2. Cost a bit over 1k in product. Not cheap but the nopics wanted the flake instead of a plain color. the flake gives it a fair bit of texture so glass or grit wasn't needed. Got a fair bit left over to do some other areas too.
    turbo e30 318is.

  30. #60
    Moderator Cal's Avatar
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    My floor is 70+ years old, so it has had a fair share of oil, grease and all manner of other shit spilled on it over the decades. Perhaps it will just be too hard to get clean enough for this?
    The most dangerous risk of all - the risk of spending your life not doing what you want, on the bet you can buy yourself the freedom to do it later. - Randy Komisar.

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