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Thread: The next project - painting the shed floor

  1. #91
    Moderator Cal's Avatar
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    I have man cave envy!
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  2. #92
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    it's a good size for a unit block. Looks like a dog's breakfast at the moment, I'll give it it's quarterly clean over xmas

  3. #93
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    ok I have 15 litres of acid left over.

    this is what I have.

    can anyone tell me what concetrate it is?

  4. #94
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    32% HCl by weight. Just a bit stronger that the 31% sold in most hardware stores.

    Is that from a chemical supply place?
    Yes we Chemistry

  5. #95
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    From a mate's pool shop..

  6. #96
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Im just about to start doing this too, just called Protec and they have the Epotec 370 at $120 for 8L. That shoudl be about right for a 24sqm floor?
    Chris
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  7. #97
    Registered User Bob Saget's Avatar
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    If anyone in Bris is looking to do this, hit me up my Brother in Law owns a paint company that does some excellent floor coatings and I'll make sure you get a PF discount.
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  8. #98
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by takai View Post
    Im just about to start doing this too, just called Protec and they have the Epotec 370 at $120 for 8L. That shoudl be about right for a 24sqm floor?
    Should be fine. I used one and a bit kits to do 37 sqm.

  9. #99
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Ill have to post pics, plan is to degrease the floor tomorrow evening (while painting the walls) and then paint the floor on Saturday and Sunday
    Chris
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  10. #100
    Registered User PerformanceCar's Avatar
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    takai - did they recommend the 408 epotec primer to you? or just to put the 370 down?

    Bob Saget - PM me some details, been looking for some different suppliers.
    turbo e30 318is.

  11. #101
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Nah, no mention of the 408. I did call though specifically asking about the 370, so unsure if its just because i sounded like i knew what i wanted.

    What is teh 408 difference?
    Chris
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  12. #102
    Nay sayer Mr Ed's Avatar
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    I just clicked on next page and it went to the start of the first page...WTF? I guess that means Cracka is on fuck-off mode again?

    FWIW: I reckon that looks awesome, even for $400. If I had a shed worth keeping I reckon Id happily pay that.
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  13. #103
    Registered User PerformanceCar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by takai View Post
    Nah, no mention of the 408. I did call though specifically asking about the 370, so unsure if its just because i sounded like i knew what i wanted.

    What is teh 408 difference?

    just looked it up - 408 is just a primer but not needed for concrete.
    turbo e30 318is.

  14. #104
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    I didn't use 408 primer on my concrete floor, just getting it real clean, etch it well, sweep out as much of the concrete dust after etching (vacuum it up too), then start rolling it out.

    Touch wood, but I haven't seen any lifting of the 370 after 3 months of it being down.

    Make sure you give the concrete heaps of time to dry out.
    Last edited by sssgtr; 16-03-11 at 03:21 PM.

  15. #105
    Registered User Bob Saget's Avatar
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    Emailed my bro in law about this and is what he said about my shed (big enough for 4 cars, bit bigger than OP's)

    Prices blocked out, cause they're cost prices. That said even at retail probably way cheaper than $400 for 20ltrs

    Howdy. You can actually skip the acid wash step and just water blast it. Or if there are any oil stains use some of our Mouldshield C cleaner at the same time.

    Then once it’s dry you roll on one coat of our Concreshied X thinned 20% with Xylene Thinners. Leave that to dry 2 hours and then roll a 2nd coat of Concreshield X neat. Leave that for 3 days before parking on it or leaving stuff sitting on it.
    You can walk on it after 24 hours though.

    It smells a lot so keep the shed as open as possible when you do it. This will also help it to dry.

    You just use normal cheap rollers with short hairs (10-15mm) and chuck them out when you’re done.

    You’ll probably need 2 x 15Lt Concreshield X ($xx each) and 1 x 4Lt of Xylene Thinnners ($xx).
    http://www.timeattack.com.au/compone...catid,20/id,7/

    http://www.shieldcoat.com.au/assets/...ld_X__Info.pdf

    http://www.shieldcoat.com.au/stencil...-coatings.html

    Full retail is Retail for 15Lt is $222 + GST for colours and $196 + GST for Clear
    Quote Originally Posted by Bender
    Yeah, well I'm gonna build my own lunar space lander!
    With blackjack aaaaannd Hookers! Actually, forget the space lander, and the blackjack.
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    What do you get if you cross a negro with a chinese?

    ... A car thief that can't drive.

  16. #106
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    I wouldn't skip the acid etch on old concrete....fresh concrete you could skip it.

  17. #107
    EX EXCOPVTEXEC Stevesv8's Avatar
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    So, i have a brand new house - that the garage has not and will not be driven on until painted.


    Whats the concensus on acid etching? Do i need to do it?
    Now without LS1........again!

  18. #108
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    So ive finally got around to it. Acid etch is done, for one coat at least. Might do another etch in the morning, will see what it looks like then.

    Edit: looked good, but i etched it again anyway. Cant hurt too much.
    Last edited by takai; 07-04-11 at 10:49 AM.
    Chris
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  19. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Saget View Post
    If anyone in Bris is looking to do this, hit me up my Brother in Law owns a paint company that does some excellent floor coatings and I'll make sure you get a PF discount.
    Your brother in law is Mark Slater?

    The concreshield is a solution acrylic which will not be as chemically resistant as a 2-pack epoxy. Although it should be better for driveways/exterior durability than epoxy.
    Last edited by lumpy; 07-04-11 at 11:38 AM.
    Yes we Chemistry

  20. #110
    Registered User Uwish's Avatar
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    I'm going this one for my house.
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    http://www.flexiconsw.com.au/citadel-floors

  21. #111
    Opens Paydirt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevesv8 View Post
    So, i have a brand new house - that the garage has not and will not be driven on until painted.


    Whats the concensus on acid etching? Do i need to do it?
    I say yes. I did so with my shed floor. Brand new and still acid etched it.
    The customer.

  22. #112
    Chopped BigMuz's Avatar
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    Yeah best to etch. The etching removes the laitance and surface muck that has floated out while it cured. It also alerts you to any curing agent the concretor might have used (if it doesn't react with the concrete)
    Retard Honour Wall.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
    Rob Sloth Young did i ask for your opinion? no. i only want it for a paddock bomb. go play with traffic.
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    you stupid fucken imbicle.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles
    your are a fucken idiot of the highest level.

  23. #113
    EX EXCOPVTEXEC Stevesv8's Avatar
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    Thanks Paydirt and Muz - this is my easter project.
    Now without LS1........again!

  24. #114
    EX EXCOPVTEXEC Stevesv8's Avatar
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    Ok, so am i tempting fate by applying the protec over the easter weekend?

    Average temps at Wallabi Point are a low of 12 and a max of 24.

    I really want to do this but will be spewing if it doesnt cure!
    Now without LS1........again!

  25. #115
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    I was advised by Protec that the surface temp of the concrete needs to be around 24 or higher....so the warmer the better.

    That being said....I think mine was around low 20's on a high 20's day and didn't bubble / lift or otherwise not cure...

  26. #116
    Chopped BigMuz's Avatar
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    If it doesn't cure the solution is more time.

    Epoxies have a threshold temp below which they stop curing. Whatever warmth you can provide will help a lot- keeping the shed closed up overnight and opening it up through the day will help if it is cold outside.

    Depending on the type of epoxy the threshold could be as low as 15 and as high as 21 or 22..

    What product did you choose?
    Retard Honour Wall.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
    Rob Sloth Young did i ask for your opinion? no. i only want it for a paddock bomb. go play with traffic.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles View Post
    you stupid fucken imbicle.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles
    your are a fucken idiot of the highest level.

  27. #117
    EX EXCOPVTEXEC Stevesv8's Avatar
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    Muz - i will go protec purely based on cost and the fact that I can get it from Haps at port.

    My plan is etch good friday morning, rinse dry afternoon.

    I have to work easer sat so wil be doing the first coat lunch time ish sat.

    I then have a day or two up my sleeve to do the second coat and probably two to three weeks of curing time before there is any traffic on it, i reckon i should be fine.
    Now without LS1........again!

  28. #118
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    Recently used a product called Marcmove by Calmarc to clean up a unsealed concrete floor that has been caked in oil for the better part 15 years and fuck me it got it back to grey concrete able to hold a coating over the top.. No one wanted to touch this floor because of amount of oil on and in the concrete.

    I broomed the Marcmove on and let it sit for ~30mins, then high pressure clean it off, and because it just wasn't on the surface we needed to follow up with a product call pilcrete which was applied to the damp concrete and to stop the oil leaching back to the surface.. We top all this is 2 pack epoxy coating and has held and shown no signs of lifting after 2 mths.

    http://www.calmarc.com/pdfs/marcmove...new%20logo.pdf
    http://www.calmarc.com/pdfs/plicrete...new%20logo.pdf

  29. #119
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Ok, did the first coat tonight. Wanted to muck around with the settings on the GoPro too, so i timelasped it:
    Chris
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  30. #120
    Registered User thechuckster's Avatar
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    maybe try the benny hill soundtrack with the next time-lapsed session?
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