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Thread: The next project - painting the shed floor

  1. #121
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by takai View Post
    Ok, did the first coat tonight. Wanted to muck around with the settings on the GoPro too, so i timelasped it:
    I hope you laid the first coat on thick-ish.....I tried to keep the first coat thin until I realized just how much I was using and needed to buy another kit!

  2. #122
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Yeah, laid it on reasonably thick. Thats 4L on the floor now, will put another 4L down this afternoon.
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  3. #123
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    The other 4L went down without a hitch, its dry enough to walk on now. But how long should i leave it to cure before putting the cars and stuff in there? Will Friday be long enough. Really want to get the garage setup again so i can start working on the Sprinter again.

    Oh and some prick of a cat has walked on the floor when it was mostly dry, so now i have bloody cat paw prints in one section.... PRICK.
    Chris
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  4. #124
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    Friday should be ok chris. You can put stuff on it in the meantime (benches / shelves etc), but i'd wait til friday before putting any cars in there.

  5. #125
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Yeah, i was thinkgin of even leaving the benches and shelves out until Friday. Not that im likely to have much time to do anything with it until then.
    Chris
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  6. #126
    Registered User PerformanceCar's Avatar
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    put some old carpet squares or similar under the tyres for a week or 2 if you can. will stop it sticking & lifting off the next time you roll it out.
    turbo e30 318is.

  7. #127
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Well over a week on and im almost back into the garage:


    Floor looks a million bucks. Well worth the $125.
    Chris
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  8. #128

  9. #129
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    Im going to be doing this, just have to move an ass load of gear.
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  10. #130
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    looks great chris! Looks like it came out a lot nicer than mine a few pages back.

  11. #131
    Registered User JESUS CHRIST's Avatar
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    takai - what are your thoughts on the selection of your flooring after a few weeks????? Noticed in other pics the car is sitting on a few carpet squares? Any issues?

    I pour the slab for my new workshop on Sat (hence no work on my car over several months) so very interested in your thoughts.

  12. #132
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Yeah, still really happy with it. The metal wheels of the trolley jacks and engine stands dont leave marks, and the carpet squares was merely because i was being a bit pedantic as it was still only a week after the floor had been laid. Its up on jack stands now and no carpet squares under them.

    The only way i would have been happier is if i had skimmed a few mm off the surface and put down new concrete, there are some bits of the floor where the concrete itself is a bit haggard, but thats by no fault of the coating, its still excellent.
    Chris
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  13. #133
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I'm going to be doing this shortly to workshop areas of my businesses (approx 350m2), the only product I could find in bulk is a Wattyl industrial coating, Epinamel EB600 from memory. Cost for 20L of product (wide range of colours available) and 20L thinners is about $460 and coverage is 4-5m2/L.

    Any tips for doing a large area? The paint supplier recommended doing a thin first coat to help bind as we've ground the surface back but not pressure washed or acid etched. I was thinking 2 coats for foot traffic areas and 3 coats for vehicle traffic.

  14. #134
    Registered User Gats's Avatar
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    Another question. Does anyone know where to get the decorative flakes from apart from the Dulux kits? I haven't been able to find any in all my searching.

  15. #135
    Smrt.. Kyle's Avatar
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    What about getting it polished instead of painted?

  16. #136
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by takai View Post
    Yeah, still really happy with it. The metal wheels of the trolley jacks and engine stands dont leave marks, and the carpet squares was merely because i was being a bit pedantic as it was still only a week after the floor had been laid. Its up on jack stands now and no carpet squares under them.

    The only way i would have been happier is if i had skimmed a few mm off the surface and put down new concrete, there are some bits of the floor where the concrete itself is a bit haggard, but thats by no fault of the coating, its still excellent.
    I'm still being a pansy and have carpet squares under jackstands / mill stand / lathe stand after 6 months!

  17. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
    What about getting it polished instead of painted?
    just need Q to show how good it can look
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  18. #138
    Smrt.. Kyle's Avatar
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    Polished floors rock when they're finished properly. And tough as

  19. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by gat5rodeo View Post
    Another question. Does anyone know where to get the decorative flakes from apart from the Dulux kits? I haven't been able to find any in all my searching.
    you want a small or larger flake? can point you in the right direction. Keep in mind if you use a flake you will need to put at least 2 clear urethane layers over it.
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  20. #140
    Chopped BigMuz's Avatar
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    eb600 not really the right stuff mate. You want cf602.

    parchem do the flake- http://www.parchem.com.au/DECORATIVE/client/c_index.jsp
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  21. #141
    Registered User Gats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerformanceCar View Post
    you want a small or larger flake? can point you in the right direction. Keep in mind if you use a flake you will need to put at least 2 clear urethane layers over it.
    Looking to use the larger flakes (which aren't available with the Dulux kit).

    Cheers for the link Muz, will check them out.

  22. #142
    Registered User PerformanceCar's Avatar
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    http://epoxysupplies.com.au/ have the larger flake & sell one off orders to the public.
    turbo e30 318is.

  23. #143
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    They tell me the EB600 has superseded the CF602 Muz, anyway I've bought 20L in Lightbox Grey and done first coat on a small 5x6m room to start with. Even thinned down to about 30% for the first coat it's pretty thick stuff, it seems too thick to do at the recommended 5% thinners? It makes it pretty hard to get smooth and even.
    Last edited by neil_se; 20-07-11 at 08:45 PM.

  24. #144
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    That does not not sound right to me re- EB600 superceding the CF602. CF stands for concrete floor and it can be used as it's own primer on bare concrete (if thinned appropriately). What temperature/humidity are you applying it at? The EB is more tolerant of very low temperatures and high humidity than CF602 but it's not as glossy and not quite as solvent resistant.

    Anyway the EB600 should be OK. Re-thickness - you have mixed it at appropriate ratios an everything? What temperature are you trying to apply it at?
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  25. #145
    Chopped BigMuz's Avatar
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    I'm guessing they had the EB600 in stock. It isn't gloss and it will stain easily.

    You'd need to thin it heaps more to roll it on successfully. First coat as much as 20% I reckon. If you run short of paint make the topcoat cf602.
    Retard Honour Wall.
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    Rob Sloth Young did i ask for your opinion? no. i only want it for a paddock bomb. go play with traffic.
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    you stupid fucken imbicle.
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  26. #146
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    Have two seperate parts to the garage here, way too difficult to move everything out (basically, nowhere to put things other than try to place on the grass). Any problems doing one side, then after its dried move everything and do the other side? If I had some more concrete driveway I would just put it outside with a tarp over it, but hard to wheel engine cranes with heavy shit over grass.
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  27. #147
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I left the air con on last night so it was about 20 degrees in the workroom. We don't use any chemicals, oils etc in these areas (it's a signage company) so they're not really a concern, it just needs to look neat and reflect the light and look more professional than bare concrete. You're probably right re: availability, there's not many paint shops around here so it's probably just what they could make in house.

    4.5x6.0m print room 3/4 done.

  28. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Madhatr View Post
    Have two seperate parts to the garage here, way too difficult to move everything out (basically, nowhere to put things other than try to place on the grass). Any problems doing one side, then after its dried move everything and do the other side? If I had some more concrete driveway I would just put it outside with a tarp over it, but hard to wheel engine cranes with heavy shit over grass.
    You can do this but I'd leave it a couple of weeks between sides. Is there an expansion joint or something between the sides? It's better to do it all at once to minimise colour variation (sometimes can happen if the drying/application conditions are different for the areas of application) but not impossible to do it seperately. One problem might be the preparation - you really need to acid etch concrete first, and depending on the coating you are using if you etch and paint one side, then etch and paint the other side the acid can attack the paint on the first side (although most epoxies are pretty chemical resistant).

    BTW CF602 is not being discontinued/deleted/phased out.
    Yes we Chemistry

  29. #149
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    Nope, no joint. Just an 8x8 square.

    I was thinking, etch one side, then move things and etch the other side and start there. The concrete is pretty new though, just dusty rather than oily. A clean with the pressure cleaner and it looks brand new.
    Quote Originally Posted by Buford T. Justice
    This happens every time one of these floozies starts poontangin' around with those show folk fags.

  30. #150
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    We've taken ownership of another premises this week and I was going to give it an acid etch this weekend. My only concern with epoxy coating in this area is that the floor is always wet with detergent (it's a window tinting business) so the smooth epoxy could be quite slippery. What can I add that won't be too rough?

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