yeah come down and i'll let you borrow the press for 10 minutes to remind yourself how good ballarat is
on another note - how farking good are A1RM brake pads! bedded them in yesterday arvo with a couple of short hard stops, today they feel awesome, solid feel, great bite even when cold - and people reckon they don't overheat much on the track. good product!
A bit of a plug here for Howard at Race Brakes in Yarraville - was recommended him to put in the DOT 5.1 Motul fluid in preparation for track days. Quick service, and cheap! Car stops better now and brake feel is better.
Booked in for a retune with sam on the 24th of this month, will throw the HKS cams on there for the tune too
Always heard great things about Howard and his work.
This thing has HKS cams in it :-)
I'm surprised how much the tune went "off" though, it idles like a cunt!
also got a new set of KU36's put on the front today, the old ones were like 3 years old and the compound had gone hard - it's surprising the difference between the feel of the new tyres and the old ones.....
Had a wheel alignment on wednesday with some camber bolts put in - the dipshit at the tyre place didn't install them correctly though so I had to fix it. how farken hard is it to install camber bolts you retards!?
had some problems on the dyno today. after the camber bolt dramas, the wheel alignment was waaaaay off. Heaps of toe out. This meant we had wheelspin issues on the rollers, had to jam down hard with the straps, even then we think it was slipping a bit. Ramped the car up for a few power runs and it didn't perform - less midrange, same top end as before. Took it for a drive and it's definately down in the midrange on teh same boost, it comes in slower and isn't as savage from 3000-4500, top end is reasonable but about the same as before which reflect the dyno sheet. We weren't sure what was going on - I'm going to check that I haven't fucked up the cam timing tonight after work but I'm pretty damn sure it was correct, I zip-tied the chain onto the cam gears so it couldn't move. There is also a fair bit less vacuum at idle than before, it's just 10inHg. This engine has always had fairly low vacuum, it was 15-17inHg with the stock cams, so that's not too unusual - just strange that it didn't make the power. Sam did suggest that the massive amount of tyre drag from the toe-out could make it read lower but unfortunately the seat-of-the-pants dyno suggests it's not performing either.
Another thought is that the cams are worn or reground - they looked great but you never know. I need to get some verniers to measure the lift on them.
Any other thoughts on what I could have fucked up whilst installing the new cams?
thinking about this logically, i reckon the inlet cam timing is off by a tooth or two. The dizzy is driven by the exhaust cam, so the exhaust cam must be correct because the ignition timing was exactly the same as before the cam swap. If the inlet cam was a tooth or two out, it would idle poorly, have low vacuum and not a lot of power. Particularly if the inlet cam is retarded by a tooth, it would destroy the midrange grunt which is what's happening. I'll pull the rocker cover tonight and check it, found a good link here with pics;
OK looks like I have an S14 inlet cam, have picked up a cheap dial guage and will tickle the inlet cam timing when my adjustable cam gears arrive. What a headfuck!
Also got the front alignment fixed back up after the spastic at the tyre shop messed up the camber bolt install. I know why it wouldn't grip on the dyno rollers - 2.4cm toe out each side!
How have you gotten a 24mm discrepancy in toe from an incorrect camber bolt install? Must have been borked from the get go..
They say i know fuck nothing, but i know fuck all!
yeah oldmate installed the locking washer on the wrong side, on an angle..... with the nut only halfway done up. spastic. i had to remove it, then re-install which changed the camber and the toe severely. had it re-aligned two days after the dyno tune but it was too late.
After my massive headfuck with teh inlet cam timing, it's sorted now. I put in some adjustable cam gears, set up a dial guage on the number 1 valve and found that peak valve lift was occurring at 120 degrees after TDC. This means it was 10 degrees of cam rotation retarded - yeah that's 20 degrees of crank rotation! no wonder it made no power.
99% sure that it's an S14 cam set designed for VCT - which means that the phasing of the inlet cam is 10 degrees off versus an S13 cam. I fixed it to 110 degrees ATDC and the car feels totally different - massive midrange picked up, I turned the boost back down, but now it breathes so well that the least boost i can run is 10psi - previously it was 7psi. Idle sounds different too, drives much better.
Off to sam on wednesday to fix the tune and tickle the cam timing on the dyno. hopefully it makes some decent power now!
will this crack 200kw this time round?
I can't remember which turbo was put on this in the end.
nah i seriously doubt it. sam's dyno is pretty non-optimistic, plus it's got a little S15 turbo on it. I'll take it to a dyno day sometime and see what it puts out on a more normal dyno, but it doesn't matter what it makes, it just matters that it's fast enough. with 168fwkw it would turn both fronts in third gear if you went over a bump, so that says to me that it's probably already up near 180-190 on any other dyno
OK we tuned this again yesterday and had mixed results again. Fiddled with teh cam timing and got it running really nice, it ramps up hard at 4000rpm just like it should with these cams. Unfortunately it ramps up hard to 170fwkw and then just stops and holds that power level all the way to redline. It doesn't taper off, it just flatlines. We are pretty sure my intercooler is restricting flow and choking the engine which would account for the flatlining of the power level - it just cannot flow any more.
The cooler is small, only 400 x 230 x 76, Sam reckons we need to go about 30-50% bigger which is a tough ask - there's no room in the front of the car. I have found a long thin intercooler (550 x 180) but ideally I'd like to just remove most of the reo bar and run a 100mm thick core, probably 550 x 200 or something similar.
The good news is that the car is farking stupidly fast now, it delivers the power more evenly as well which means the wheelspin is much more controllable. It aggressively turns both front wheels in third gear now with little provocation
your title to this thread says "daily"
I'd say 170fwkw lsd equiped 1000kg car is plenty good.
Just leave it at that and get started on the mafia car.
Do you really even need anymore power than that ! Your egg is going to kill you, you know that right?
what are you guys queer or somethin?
Sounds like the torque converter
Is there some way to test this without replacing it? Or maybe replace it quickly with the front bumper off on the dyno?
easiest way is to just buy a new china core for $150 and whack it in. If i'm careful i should be able to find one that almost bolts straight in. will get onto sam's supplier who has every shape and size and get it done.
on on the dyno are you measuring boost at 2 spots? ie 1 at compressor outlet and 1 in the plenum?
id imagine you'd be able to work out theres a flow restricion on the dyno as at the point where it flatlines the boost gauge on the comp outlet should be holding/increasing boost, and the gauge at the plenum should be dropping at a considerable rate.
Originally Posted by RdynoOriginally Posted by Tripper
car is closer to 1200kg, so yes you need more power
yeah i tried to run you over dave but i was too slow. i'll get ya next time.
we tapped a fitting into the compressor outlet and measured it at two points, yeah. had a good look at the thing today while i was getting it ready for the track and I reckon I'll go to a 400x300 cooler. There are some air conditioning pipes jammed right up against the back of it which sucks, that means I can't push it back or make it thicker without dramas. It may be possible to bend these out of the way, i'll look in to that.
This arvo I threw in some fresh oil and filter, installed the knocklite and set it up, cleaned all the superfluous shit out of the car, re-installed the Sparco racing harness and checked the tyre pressures. Looking good for monday, fingers crossed it doesn't rain but forecast is sketchy :S
Have you done a check for boost leaks? Could be a case of a leak rather than a restrictive core? I'd be interested to find out as I have a similar sized core on my SR20.
Yeah we hooked it up to Sam's smoke machine and pressure tested the whole thing. Found a few tiny pinhole leaks and a rooted PCV valve. Fixed all that, car still didn't make any more power. Another thing that makes me think it's the intercooler core.
Anyway threw the nugget around winton today. The car performed well today, mostly. I could only do a few laps at a time before it started pushing coolant out through the overflow bottle and overheating. Fearing a blown head gasket, I pulled all the plugs and they were brown?! Shat myself a bit when I looked at the first one, thinking it was burning coolant but all plugs were the same. For future reference, I found out that one of the ingredients in octane booster causes brown plugs! Freaky huh. I think the overheating thing was mostly the radiator cap not having enough seat pressure.
Anyway it had a bit of a spongy brake pedal after a few hard laps as well, I think just not disapating the heat fast enough. QFM A1RM pads and DOT 5.1 Motul fluid didn't help much! They didn't fade, or stop working, just went spongy? Strange. But you could still stand on the pedal hard and it would stop.
On Ku36's I managed a PB of 1.49.20 around winton anyway. Happy to be under 1.50. Really need better brakes and slicks to go much faster. The tune was great and the car hauled ass all day - highlight of the day for me was overtaking an M3 down the back straight :-)
For reference some other times for the day:
Fezza 458 Italia 1.39
Audi R8 (V8 version) 1.46
E30 with cage, semis 1.55
GT3 Porsche cup car 1.33
Last edited by stockymcstock; 19-09-11 at 08:52 PM.
So engine > radiator > brakes.
Probably not much point chasing those missing Kw then in the real world?
p.s. pink love egg.
Edit - more like : engine > brakes > radiator. Plus spins tyres in 3rd so engine > grip too.
How did it go round corners?
Last edited by drscrote; 20-09-11 at 08:34 PM.