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Thread: Post a pic up of your best welds

  1. #601
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    3 pass mig full pen (had a 10ish mm gap). Its 2 bits of 10mm bar, 1 goes through to the chassis and this side is just a reinforcement.

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    Last edited by da9jeff; 03-02-18 at 06:58 PM.
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  2. #602
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by da9jeff View Post
    3 pass mig full pen (had a 10ish mm gap). Its 2 bits of 10mm bar, 1 goes through to the chassis and this side is just a reinforcement.

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    Nice!

    Didn't know you could stick weld aloominum (using DC no less),


  3. #603
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    Good luck doing it on anything thin lol. There's heaps of weird ways to weld stuff, but usually the way everyone else does it is the easiest and best way.

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  4. #604
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    ........
    Last edited by dnegative; 03-02-18 at 11:24 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  5. #605
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    Yeah, stick welding aluminum is a fucking *race* to get the weld done before the weldment collapses into a puddle. There's a reason not to stick weld aluminum unless you absolutely need to do it that way.

    Even then a suitcase MIG with a spool gun is desirable, but just like stick welding titanium, it *can* be done...you just don't wanna do it that way.

  6. #606
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    That and Ali stick rods are fuck off expensive and generally an order in item for welding suppliers. So not a trip to bunnings type of item.

  7. #607
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    All the guys on YouTube say ally stick is for quick temp field repairs.

  8. #608
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    I want to learn how to do this and the proper spray surface welding.


  9. #609
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    Proper spray welding.


  10. #610
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S View Post
    I want to learn how to do this and the proper spray surface welding.

    i'd focus on getting a MIG, then a TIG in your position. Interesting processes though!

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadsailing View Post
    i'd focus on getting a MIG, then a TIG in your position. Interesting processes though!
    Yea I know. Lol that oven looks fucking expensive haha. But it would be cool to learn.

    Btw this is what the cheap spray welding looks like I might get me one. Also Iím aware that MIGís have a spray mode which is different again.

    Last edited by S; 06-02-18 at 09:26 PM.

  12. #612
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    I was surfing YT and had to post this am going to watch again.

  13. #613
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    not fantastic, but one of my antique F clamps had a bolt as a windy handle which ran into everything, so I replaced it with a mexican style one.



    don;t think I'll be doing a steering wheel any time soon, but it would suit the right kind of car.

  14. #614
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    TIG practice

    Comments and feedback on the below welcome.

    My observations:

    1. Weld finish dull, could this have been insufficient gas flow/coverage? I had the garage door open and it was windy
    2. Not apparent in the photos, but one side is slightly undercut, I think I wasn't feeding rod in quick enough
    3. Daggy looking finish "spot" was where I jabbed the tungsten into the puddle (I was deliberately practicing welding out of position)

    Cheers








  15. #615
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    Is that mild steel or stainless? If mild steel, it looks Ok, and the overall heat input is too high to keep from a grey weld. You would have to slow up a LOT and drop the heat input, or run more amps and move much faster, to keep heat input low enough to get that shiny stainless weld action going on. Not a problem with mild steel to have a weld that has that color to it, but you'll need to brush it off if you're doing a second pass.

    If stainless, doubly so-you need to move much faster, and keep heat input low. Also stainless needs more gas flow and better coverage to start with. Did you have any gas bubbles going on with that weld?

  16. #616
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    Thanks for the feedback Xnke. Itís mild steel.

    Not sure what you mean by gas bubbles? Iím still having trouble finishing off consistently without a little crater. Iíve got the finishing amps set to minimum, 5 amps.

  17. #617
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    that crater at the end of the weld, often times if the weld is dirty you'll get a "bubble" that forms and pops at the end of the weld. This is caused mostly by hydrocarbon contamination.

  18. #618
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    Been a long time since I have posted anything worth while.

    I have been working really hard this year in getting the she'd sorted and learning How To use the lathe and mill (been fucking up a lot lol) and working real hard on my rehab / training for paracycling. Which all leads me to my welding....

    I have finally got to a point of gluing tubes together for a bike frame.

    I made things pretty hard for myslef with the tubing I selected. It was an emotional choice, an old tubing set I've lusted after since I was a kid. It's ovalised on opposite planes at each end of the tube for all main tubes, making junctions just a little more complicated flr a first time build lol

    Anyways, onwards an upwards.

    Made a few legit boo boos. But all in all I'm pretty happy for a first frame.



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  19. #619
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    I trialled slow pulse, like 1.5 pps ( seems a popular setting amongst the pros) and had 10 dummy joints to get my head around it

    Try and i might I couldn't come at it. Just didn't like it. Too slow and not enough adaption for things being a little out of perfect...

    Im the end after 3 days of fucking around and not being happy, I went back to a 30pps and 30 percent background (rule of 30s..) .and it's really nice. A lot harder to get that robotic look, but much faster on the tube and much easier to adapt.

    So in I jumped.

    The welds are far from perfect, but for a first time, Im happy enough. I can only improve lol. But I really really need to figure out a much improved method of welding the chainstay, they can get royally fucked. They near broke me. Fucking cunts of thiNs to weld.

    All the practice welds are 0.9 chrome.molly with a aluminium heat sink, and the frame is various chrome Molly sizes from 0.7 to 1.1 with heat sinks and purge. Weld wire is 0.6 Weldmold (312)stainless which has good elongation and is machinable so resists cracking...

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  20. #620
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    Nicely done, man. That's some beautiful work.

  21. #621
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    To my untrained eye, they are very purty welds.

    I guess the big test will come in competition???



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  22. #622
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    Thanks lads,

    The big test is probably a few years down the track as to whether the welds cause any heat fatigue.

    They shouldn't. The tubing is "very" forgiving, and relatively thick for bike frame tubing. It's not any Of The fancy pants sir hardening stuff that can cause severe brittleness, and none Of The stupid thin 0.4mm stuff that can cause stress crack to propagate

    I was naughty and dress welded the rear chain stays. I couldn't help myself. The first welds were so fucking horrible. Generally that's a no no. #shrugs.

    I forgot to mention, this frame is for a tall lad, it's 57 long and 58 tall, with a 20mm lip on the head tube.

    As such, my premade head tubes were all too short.... So I had to get my Braze on. Not sure why. But this is somehting that has always terrified me. #shrugs. Even when I was working I fucking hate the oxy set. This is only silver brazing, so doesn't need to get real hit.

    I took a punt and got one of those "hot devil" mini oxy kits from eBay. Total fucking shit. They work great..... For 4 minutes. I Shit you not. 4 minutes the oxy bottles lasts. For 30 dollars worth of Ųxygen. It's fucked.

    Im the end I went with the cheap and nasty butane torch I have. It's crude, but gets things hot enough for silver...

    So that's how i made the head tube, machine a piece of chrome Molly I had for the suspension on the corolla lol and brazed in the bearing cups also braised in the stainless steel bottle bosses ... Silver again.

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  23. #623
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    Nice work! Did your jig hold the frame square?

  24. #624
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprinkles View Post
    Nice work! Did your jig hold the frame square?
    At this stage no.

    The jig worked for tacking it up, and it went in and out of the jig well so I think it was pretty square, but the bulk Of The welding was done outside Of The jig for access and purge

    I don't have a flat table yet (getting one sorted before this goes out) but once the welding was done I recon it's out by about 2mm at the seat tube and 1/4 at the head tube.

    But will see when I get it on the alignment table. Commercial bikes I've seen anywehre up to 10mm out of square, but general pracitce is accepted anything under 0.3mm for a custom frame is acceptable, headtube variance you want to keep under 0.1 over the length is any variation there is magnified by the stearing angles :/

    It's nice to keep them square with weld sequence, but cold setting is fairly common and universal.
    I know why this one pulled the way it did, my fit up wasn't as good as it need to be on the left side bottom Of The down tube to head tube and the similar side on the Seat tube junctions. So hopefully as I improve on these areas the frame movement from welding will reduce.

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  25. #625
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    this might as well go here, funnier'n I thought it was going to be.


  26. #626
    Registered User MZ21's Avatar
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    Dumb Q, but i'll ask anyway. TIG welding two pieces ERW 25mm 1.6mm tube together at 45 A DC

    Weld looks ok with good peneration, but weld it self looks dull. Why Don't my welds look baller like I see on YT etc

  27. #627
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    45 is hot for good colour.

    Most Of The guys with good colour (sweeping generalisation) are going cold and lacking peno for things like exhausts and Shit.

    Those with good peno and colour comes down to gas coverage in the end once all things are equal.

    We used to do 42 a for 2 inch stainless 1.6 chemical tube. This would be a full peno sanitary weld and it would be burnt as fuck on the outside. Because it was cheaper for the boss to have us run small cups like 8s and save a bit of argon than worry about oretty colours when everything we did was pickled clean anyway.

    25mm stainless would go down to low 30 pr high 20s depending on how fast toy could run.

    But also mild doesn't like looking shiny after a weld at the best of tines any way. Again, scale build up I believe is avoided through gas coverage....

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  28. #628
    Registered User MZ21's Avatar
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    I was working off 30A /mm as a baseline. Yeah I'm a tightarse with argon try the get away with 10L/min.

    Will try dropping amps and increasing gas flow and try a few test passes.

  29. #629
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    20 amp a mm has always worked pretty well for me to be honest. But technique and speed etc has a lot to do with it...

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  30. #630
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    Are you using a screen for your argon at least? That makes a big difference even at low cup sizes and flows..

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