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Thread: Post a pic up of your best welds

  1. #571
    Registered User bang chong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by da9jeff View Post
    At the risk of turning this into the "Jeff's noob welding questions" thread, has anyone tried one of the ~$60 tig pedals on ebay? Next cheapest is token tools at $160 then the unimig one for $230ish. Are they universal or should I just get the unimig one?

    I successfully stuck some bits of 6061 together today for the first time, my hours of youtube viewing paid off as I could lay a bead pretty much straight up, but I've realised that:
    - I definitely need a pedal, and that torch mounted controls suck dick.
    - I want one of those mini ck torches,
    - Shoulda bought the big pack of filler rod.

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    You don't really need a pedal. I can weld more consistent and nice without a pedal as once the work piece is hot I just travel faster to compensate. The old foot can get a bit lazy at times and that can throw off your consistency. Anyway like anything you get what you pay for when it comes to pedals. You probably won't really know if you don't have anything to compare it too though.

    Just make sure whatever torch you get it is 200amp or you'll cook it whenever you use ac.


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  2. #572
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    Yeah as above.

    Agree torch controls can be a pain in the arse becasue the on and off can cause dipping but it's easy enough to get used to.

    That being said foot pedal does have some definite advantages.

    I've got a cheap one that came with my welder, only use it once cos I was too retarded to get it working lol... But yeah with long sessions the foot can get right lazy lol.

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  3. #573
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    I was welding 2t but I still need to figure out 4t (or read the manual), I think I'll still get a pedal when cash allows. So is a wp17 style the smallest you'd go for AC work?

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  4. #574
    Registered User bang chong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by da9jeff View Post
    I was welding 2t but I still need to figure out 4t (or read the manual), I think I'll still get a pedal when cash allows. So is a wp17 style the smallest you'd go for AC work?

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    I do prefer using the pedal on poor fitment and thin stuff though, youd be surprised how much of a gap you can fill lol even on thinner stuff.

    What frequency are you welding on? I'm using the latest unimig 200amp acdc tig and i have my frequency up to ab0ut 180 hertz.

    If you can get a wp17 torch in 200amp then yes but from memory most of the wp26 are the bigger bulkier can handle more amp units. I run a stubby kit on my one at home with a gas lens and a no.8 pyrex cup



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  5. #575
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    Im at 100hz at the moment. Probably got the same welder (razor) and torch as you, just seems massive. Do you use the 4t trigger? I have a gas lens kit coming in the post.

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    Last edited by da9jeff; 04-09-17 at 11:48 AM.
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  6. #576
    Registered User bang chong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by da9jeff View Post
    Im at 100hz at the moment. Probably got the same welder (razor) and torch as you, just seems massive. Do you use the 4t trigger?

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    Yeah thats the same welder as I use at work. I would usually weld with about 120hertz but I'm welding 1.6mm ally rhs and the higher hertz I feel helps keep the arc tighter on this thin stuff.

    2t. I try to use 4t but then forget that I'm on 4t lol and just switch it back.

    Look into the stubby lens kit and it takes a fair bit of the bulkiness out of the wp27 torch

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  7. #577
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Yeah ive also never been a fan of pedals, prefer to run around 1 - 1.5secs downslope to control temp..

  8. #578
    Registered User schnitzelburger's Avatar
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    just whoring on reddit and found this

    Turbo NB MX5: more derp less carbon lightyear clone
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    ohsdocs.com.au Safe Work Method Statements and other OH&S paperwork for builders and tradies, PF members PM me I'll do you a good deal.

  9. #579
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euronymous View Post
    Yeah ive also never been a fan of pedals, prefer to run around 1 - 1.5secs downslope to control temp..
    Is that just using the button to cycle the weld program? I still haven't tried the pulse feature, figure I'll learn without it and hopefully be a better welder when I do use it. My TIGing has been going well, still haven't got a pedal but am getting better at regulating speed/heat.

    This was joining a points distributor bottom half to the top half of an elec ignition dizzy, the shaft was also machined and tigged together.



    Bit of scrap, fuck I wish Al welded like steel.

    Last edited by da9jeff; 24-10-17 at 05:24 PM.
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  10. #580
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    Changing subject, does anyone here do structural alloy work? I'm doing a fair bit of fourbie stuff with my little side business and have a job to build a basic ute tray to hold a alloy canopy (1800x1800 tourer style thing). The customer wants steel (50x3 shs) which is fine, but I was thinking about a alloy equiv to cut down on weight. Would there be issues using say 50x5? shs to build a tray for offroad use? Mostly worried about fatigue cracking etc and having to over spec it so much that it weighs the same as a steel one anyway... thoughts?

    If the idea was feasible, I might even look at another MIG machine and set it up just for alloy, although the first 1 would be TIG and end up on my Nav.
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  11. #581
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    Good work behind the torch man

    I have nothing useful to add about the ute tray sorry

    It's been months and months since I have had a decent today on the she'd inhale been tidying up and rearranging things in readiness for the car.port and the new tools and the bike end of things. Which meant going through all my bits of shit, hanging them on the wall and figuring out what was missing. I had a shimano locking remover. And a campag locking remover. So figured it's a good excuse to make it a stand alone tool

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  12. #582
    Ease Up Turbo Commotion's Avatar
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    With ally just be aware that the material around the weld has a much lower strength because of the heat. Even with a higher strength alloy the heat from the weld will drop it down. Ie if itís a 6060 alloy extrusion itís probably going to be down around 100MPa so ur rhs is going to be 2-3 times stronger in the weld region.

    Any gussets or plates ur welding on try and give the plate a bit of a toe so where the weld terminates has only a thin piece of plate attached to reduce stress. Also try and avoid welding perpendicular to the direction of stress, ie across the beam.

  13. #583
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    Yeah my understanding is that once welded the metal reverts to the unheat treated specs in the weld zone.

    Had a look on the Norweld site and they use 75x35x6 for the main tray beams. Might head to capral and price up some rhs. What grade would be best for corrugations etc?

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  14. #584
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    I think you will find they don't have many grades, have a look at dabfab fabrications he does all alloy stuff in Mt Isa I help him scan and reverse engineer stuff.
    3D scanning
    3D modelling
    Structural certification
    3 and 5 axis milling

  15. #585
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    Cheers, will do.

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  17. #587
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    6061 cunt can fuck off back to the other dimension he came from.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  18. #588
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    Why not not just use a chunk of raw stock ?
    ......................

  19. #589
    Registered User [RX3]'s Avatar
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    When it comes to welding turbo / intercooler charge pipes, how important is penetration of the welds ?

    I only sometimes seem to get it, no where near as consistent as steel.

  20. #590
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    Thought I would drag this up as I've been doing a fair bit of stick welding lately, got a bit frustrated with the CIG 2.0mm rods I bought a while ago and nearly got the gasles MIG out, instead I got some "Michigan" 3.2mm rods, they are 6013 general purpose and work great so far. really cheap too, about half the price of CIG, got them at total tools and the total tool who worked there reckons they sell shitloads more of them to tradies than the CIG rods.

    /CSH for now, if I get any presentable beads i'll throw a photo up.

  21. #591
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    Been through a few 5kg rolls of the Michigan .9mm solid mig wire. Cant beat $27 in a 5kg.
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  22. #592
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadsailing View Post
    got them at total tools and the total tool who worked there reckons they sell shitloads more of them to tradies than the CIG rods.
    6013's (aka farmers rods) are pretty forgiving but I bet if you put the CIG rods in the oven at 100c for a few hours and they would probably run a lot better, wouldnt take much for a batch to get a little iffy in their journey from China.
    Last bit of welding I did was with WIA 7016 rods, if you dried them and used them straight away they ran beautifully, let em sit in the packet for a week in a dry cupboard and they were noticeably worse, dry them again, back to being good.
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  23. #593
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnegative View Post
    6013's (aka farmers rods) are pretty forgiving but I bet if you put the CIG rods in the oven at 100c for a few hours and they would probably run a lot better, wouldnt take much for a batch to get a little iffy in their journey from China.
    Last bit of welding I did was with WIA 7016 rods, if you dried them and used them straight away they ran beautifully, let em sit in the packet for a week in a dry cupboard and they were noticeably worse, dry them again, back to being good.
    yeah I need all the forgiving I can get for the current project coupled with my skill level, I didn't clean any of the metal with the new rods for more farm practice, turned out fine, how strong does a space shuttle need to be anyway.

    I might try CIG in 3.2mm some day.

    Where did you get 7016 rods? I was surprised the rods I got said 6013 on them, seems to be more an american thing from what little looking I did.

  24. #594
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    For stick rods, the code is as per below for the 4 and some 5 digit codes for mild steel:

    All of these are gonna have an E for Electrode up front, then first two digits represent the resulting weld's minimum tensile strength, measured in thousands of pounds per square inch (ksi). For example the number "70" in a E7018 electrode indicates that the electrode will produce a weld bead with a minimum tensile strength of 70,000 psi. The third digit tells you what postions the rod is good for, and fourth digit tells you what kind of flux coating is on the rod.

    Third digit:
    1 - all position
    2 - flat/horizontal only
    3 - dunno bout this one
    4 - flat, horizontal, vertical down, overhead

    Fourth digit:
    Digit Type of Coating Welding Current
    0 High cellulose sodium DC+
    1 High cellulose potassium AC, DC+ or DC-
    2 High titania sodium AC, DC-
    3 High titania potassium AC, DC+
    4 Iron powder, titania AC, DC+ or DC-
    5 Low hydrogen sodium DC+
    6 Low hydrogen potassium AC, DC+
    7 High iron oxide, iron powder AC, DC+ or DC-
    8 Low hydrogen potassium, iron powder AC, DC+ or DC-

    6010 electrodes can only be used with direct current (DC) power sources. They deliver deep penetration and will cut right through rust, oil, paint and crap. Pipe welders use these for root welding passes in pipe joints. However, 6010 rods require an extremely tight arc, which can make them difficult to use if you're not on the ball.

    6011 used for all-position welding using an alternating current (AC) welding power source. Like 6010, 6011 rods produce a deep, penetrating arc that cuts through corroded or unclean metals. Maintenance and repair work when a DC power source is unavailable.

    6012 are great for applications that require gap bridging between two joints. tend to produce a shallower penetration profile and dense slag that doesn't come off so easy.

    6013 - soft arc with minimal spatter, moderate penetration and easy to remove slag. These electrodes should only be used to weld clean, new sheet metal as they just don't cut through the rust or paint or crap. They do make you look like a pro if you're half-careful with them.

    7014 electrodes produce about the same joint penetration as 6012 electrodes and are designed for use on carbon and low alloy steels. 7014 electrodes contain a higher amount of iron powder, which increases deposition rate. They can also be used at higher amperages than 6012 electrodes.

    7018 electrodes contain a thick flux with high powder content and are one of the easiest electrodes to use. These electrodes produce a smooth, quiet arc with minimal spatter and medium arc penetration. Many welders use 7018 electrodes to weld thick metals such as structural steel. 7018 electrodes also produce strong welds with high impact properties (even in cold weather) and can be used on carbon steel, high-carbon, low-alloy or high strength steel base metals.

    7024 electrodes contain a high amount of iron powder content that helps increase deposition rates. Many welders use 7024 electrodes for high-speed horizontal or flat fillet welds. These electrodes perform well on steel plate that is at least 1/4 inch thick. They can also be used on metals that measure over 1/2 inch thick.

    Occasionally you'll see something like E8018-B2H4R. In this case, the "B2" indicates chemical composition of the weld metal deposit. The "H4" is the diffusible hydrogen designator, which indicates the maximum diffusible hydrogen level obtained with the product. And "R" stands for the moisture resistant designator to indicate the electrode's ability to meet specific low moisture pickup limits under controlled humidification tests. The first four digits after the E are read as per above, like any other rod.

  25. #595
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    So much awesome man. Cant thank you enough for sharing that sort of knowledge

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  26. #596
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    Also, if you think you might have damp rods, set the welder to 40-50A, and "stick" a rod to a scrap plate for a few seconds. You'll see and feel it heat up pretty fast-be ready to break it off the plate or jerk it out of the electrode holder pretty quick. If it didn't break off the plate, cold-chisel or slag hammer it off the plate and try welding with it after you've heated it-if it welds better, put your rods in the oven!

  27. #597
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadsailing View Post
    Where did you get 7016 rods? I was surprised the rods I got said 6013 on them, seems to be more an american thing from what little looking I did.
    Local industrial shop, Austarc 16TC.
    Every now and then I see a pipe fitter or old school boiler maker stick weld and fuck those guys are a dying breed.
    Last edited by dnegative; 02-02-18 at 08:23 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  28. #598
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnegative View Post
    Local industrial shop, Austarc 16TC.
    Every now and then I see a pipe fitter or old school boiler maker stick weld and fuck those guys are a dying breed.
    cheers! do you know what we call 7018s here?

    think my $100 rossmark ebay welder is at its limit, welded on 170 amps (whatever that actually is) for about an hour then couldn't unscrew one of the leads from the machine as the rubber boot was spinning on it, spanner got it out fine. wouldn't mind putting decent leads on it but they are going to approach the cost of the welder. might look in to some homebrew solutions.

    I forgot how messy stick is, flux and electrode roaches everywhere!

  29. #599
    Defective Faux Forg's Avatar
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    It's not the prettiest weld , but I'm really happy with how it turned out. I've literally been putting off doing it for years... I cut out at least 2 previous owners' attempts at repairing the panel and made a new section. It's ~1300 long in what started out as 0.8mm sheet, but over the years has rusted and been ground down to ~0.4mm in places. TIG welded in short runs with minimal distortion.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin
    Chickens will slip under water in the cover of darkness like a seal team and FUCK YOU UP.

  30. #600
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    Nah tops work man thats a tuff crack and you done good...

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