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Thread: 7MGE MX83 intermittent issues

  1. #1
    Hooroo! Nitephyre's Avatar
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    7MGE MX83 intermittent issues

    Hey guys,

    Mrs Nite's MX83 has been having weird running issues lately where it randomly will lose power. It feels like it's flooding, which is odd, it being EFI.

    It usually happens under load or when cornering, mainly uphill and to stop it I have to slowly lift throttle and slowly re-apply it. I've recently replaced the distributor cap & rotor button. Leads are Top Gun and in pretty decent condition.

    The auto box is fairly tired and is also having it's own problems, randomly shifting down or taking too long to shift up, mainly in OD.

    I'm leaning towards it being fuel issue, maybe pressure or delivery, but I'm starting to run out of ideas so throw some at me.

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  2. #2
    Registered User TurboRA28's Avatar
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    Try and get a fuel pressure guage so you can see what is happening when the problem occurs.. My oldies mazda had a similar problem and was fuel pressure related. New pump and all good.

  3. #3
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    blocked fuel filter or crap in the tank maybe?
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  4. #4
    Registered User schnitzelburger's Avatar
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    yeah check fuel filter but also

    these get a build up of oil or water in the spark plug valley

    make sure your cam covers are screwed down as they come undone all the time, then clean the valley out

    other issue is burnt out rotor button but that replaced as u say
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    Is it too early to call BHG?

    Do these have the flapper/vane type airflow meter as per the MA70 7Ms?
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  6. #6
    loves the Cressy
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    Wondering if you may have the classic Toyota ECU issues, where the capacitors fritz out. Prior to my JZ powered MX83 having its computer refurbed, it had issues with over fuelling 4 cylinders and not fuelling at all in 2 cylinders. It also had the odd bit of weirdness with the auto. All apparently fixed with the computer repair.

    Something to think about, if the other suggestions come to nil.
    Cheers, Richard

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    Hooroo! Nitephyre's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.

    As an update, I've decided that it's not actually bogging down, but the engine is actually cutting out for a split second, sometimes two or three. It was quite bad on the way home today, and the check engine light kept coming on, varying in time from 10 seconds to about 3 minutes.

    Robbo: It did have some oil in the spark plug galleries a few months ago, but I went round and tightened all the crappy screws as they were quite loose and I think most of it would've burnt off by now. I've seen people suggest changing them with bolts, but I haven't been able to find out what types.

    lumpy: Yeah, the air-box has a big noisy metal flap in it, when I start the car it makes a "clink clink" noise.

    Richard: As per above, once I realised that it actually seems to be cutting out, I'm starting to suspect that the ECU might be on the way out, thanks for somewhat validating my idea. On saying that, what'd be the best bet... get a replacement one and just hope that it's buggered either, or get this one repaired somehow?

    Cheers,
    Matt
    Last edited by Nitephyre; 25-11-11 at 06:14 PM.

    | 1963 RK43 Toyota Lite-Stout (Stanley) | 2002 EC5W Mitsubishi Legnum VR-4 Type-S (Larry) |

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  8. #8
    Sidetracked BMWTurbo's Avatar
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    Oil won't burn off the head, you'll have to remove it and clean it.

    Imagine what would happen internally if the outside of the head got hot enough to burnt he oil.

  9. #9
    Hooroo! Nitephyre's Avatar
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    Eh, that makes sense... such a pain in the arse to clean it out

    On a brighter note, Deceiver just happens to have an ECU for $50 which I'll try out, can't be any worse, hopefully
    Last edited by Nitephyre; 25-11-11 at 06:40 PM.

    | 1963 RK43 Toyota Lite-Stout (Stanley) | 2002 EC5W Mitsubishi Legnum VR-4 Type-S (Larry) |

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  10. #10
    Sex Pest Cock Fist's Avatar
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    Checked this thread out on your advice.

    I'm going to call it ECU caps. Just about every Toyota from that era had dramas with them.
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  11. #11
    Real life axe man Justin Bieber's Avatar
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    Sounds like a similar issue to my 3rz powered hilux that i'm currently working through (with little success). I swapped out my fuel filter, brown/muddy fuel came out the dirty side. Going to flush the tank/lines/pickup on the weekend and cross my fingers. It's going to be a cuntly job, 115L tank in the hilux and it looks like solid steel!

    Does your car run an air flow meter? Definitely worth giving that a proper cleaning out and test it's resistance as per your service manual. You can also test to see the voltage dropping/rising as you blow through it.
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  12. #12
    Hooroo! Nitephyre's Avatar
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    Thanks John... that second line is quasi-gibberish to me, though I get the idea of what you're saying.

    I'll give cheap ECU a try and go from there

    | 1963 RK43 Toyota Lite-Stout (Stanley) | 2002 EC5W Mitsubishi Legnum VR-4 Type-S (Larry) |

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  13. #13
    Real life axe man Justin Bieber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnMcSandyAxe View Post

    Does your car run an air flow meter? Definitely worth giving that a proper cleaning out and test it's resistance as per your service manual. You can also test to see the voltage dropping/rising as you blow through it.
    http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa.../mafm/insp.pdf

    That's what the quasi-gibberish is relating too
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  14. #14
    Hooroo! Nitephyre's Avatar
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    Ah, gotchya

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  15. #15
    Hooroo! Nitephyre's Avatar
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    Well, I'm back to where I started... unfortunately the ECU isn't the problem unless in a pure stroke of Fuck You, I got another dud one.... doubt it though. Thanks for trying to help out though Deceiver!

    After more diagnosis, it doesn't matter now whether it's uphill, downhill, flat, highway etc, it'll do it. Seems to be after about 30mins or so of driving is when it starts to get cranky. It does chew through the coolant a fair bit, it has to be topped up every fortnight, but there's no indication of milky oil etc, so I guess there might just be a tiny leak somewhere, not enough to leave a puddle.

    So, what else should I be looking at and should I focus more on electrical or mechanical?

    When it's not misbehaving, it still has smooth enough power delivery and will happily get up to 130 or so.
    Last edited by Nitephyre; 12-12-11 at 09:03 AM.

    | 1963 RK43 Toyota Lite-Stout (Stanley) | 2002 EC5W Mitsubishi Legnum VR-4 Type-S (Larry) |

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    PF - We're not happy till you're not happy.

  16. #16
    Hooroo! Nitephyre's Avatar
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    Aaannnnnnd now, cunting no. 6 spark plug snapped in half while I was trying to remove it... fucking fantastic. Hopefully the cunt isn't fused into the head or some shit... if it is, I'll need to find a 1GZ stat

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  17. #17
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    If engine light comes on, check it for codes
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  18. #18
    Hooroo! Nitephyre's Avatar
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    Done that, it reckons all is hunky-dory. New spark plugs in (yay, no damage) but still the occasional stutter/miss/cut-out whatever it is.

    I found a hole in the big round canister thing after the AFM/MAF(?), so I expertly gaffer taped that hoping it'd help, no dice I cleaned the oil out of the plug galleries as well. It also gets this slugdy build-up in the oil return pipe that goes from cam covers to plenum, is that normal?

    So now that spark seems to be covered, I guess I look at fuel delivery etc?

    | 1963 RK43 Toyota Lite-Stout (Stanley) | 2002 EC5W Mitsubishi Legnum VR-4 Type-S (Larry) |

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  19. #19
    Hooroo! Nitephyre's Avatar
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    Another thing to add is that after the 30mins or so of driving and it does the cutting out thing, if it sits idling for a bit the revs start going spastic and it'll ramp up to 2000rpm or so then drop down to about 800, rinse & repeat.

    Could that mean the idle control valve/solenoid/thing or throttle position sensor (if it has one)?

    | 1963 RK43 Toyota Lite-Stout (Stanley) | 2002 EC5W Mitsubishi Legnum VR-4 Type-S (Larry) |

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  20. #20
    Temporary Australian Rorz de Puniet's Avatar
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    2JZ will fix this.
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    Hooroo! Nitephyre's Avatar
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    That may be the case, but it isn't practical

    So as above, could it be the Idle Control Solenoid (?) shitting itself?

    | 1963 RK43 Toyota Lite-Stout (Stanley) | 2002 EC5W Mitsubishi Legnum VR-4 Type-S (Larry) |

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  22. #22
    Registered User E-Z's Avatar
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    umm logic tells me fuel pump or reg...

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    Have you checked the AFM yet? My old 7m used to do some weird shit when it rained similar to the symptoms you describe, turned out the AFM was leaking a bit as the seal around the electronics bit had perished and condensate would form in there, making it go wack. (The flapper/vane is attached to a little arm that drags across a contact strip telling the engine which position the vane is in) The short term fix was removing the cover, cleaning it out, checking the voltages etc and then sticking it back together with a heap of silicon.

    It also used to consume a bit of water without making the oil milky or obviouly leaking, however it consumed a lot of oil as well (like 1L per 150kms)!

    The longer term fix was a 1jz. Just saying.
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  24. #24
    Registered User RB30-POWER's Avatar
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    Did this ever get solved, I have to look at a car with exact same symptoms.

    My first thought was ecu caps because it just drops the revs and engine light flicks like it's losing power.

  25. #25
    Registered User TRD-MX62's Avatar
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    check the ignitor module, common for them to die when hot
    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    the theory is the fuel pump is one of the only things that can fuck out on a diesel

  26. #26
    Hooroo! Nitephyre's Avatar
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    Holy fucking thread mine, Batgirl!

    Yes, it got solved by being traded in on a Suzuki Alto not long after this thread

    The poor Alto then got written off in 2014 and replaced with an i30

    At the time I did swap ECUs but it didn't solve the problem which I think was gearbox related. Think I still have that ECU in the garage too, along with some of the small corner mudflaps and a rear numberplate garnish. Should get rid of them, heh.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lumpy View Post
    Is it too early to call BHG? Do these have the flapper/vane type airflow meter as per the MA70 7Ms?
    Both these.

    I've lost count of the 7MGTE BHG jobs I've done. The thing should have come with winged nuts to make the job easier.

    Sound electrical. Do the usual tests as well as the fuel ones above. Also, IIRC these things had a host of vacuum lines going into the manifold. Have a quick check of those whilst you're inn that infernal mess of an engine bay.

  28. #28
    Registered User TRD-MX62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mizone View Post
    Both these.

    I've lost count of the 7MGTE BHG jobs I've done. The thing should have come with winged nuts to make the job easier.

    Sound electrical. Do the usual tests as well as the fuel ones above. Also, IIRC these things had a host of vacuum lines going into the manifold. Have a quick check of those whilst you're inn that infernal mess of an engine bay.
    Once you cook them the head go's soft and does not matter how many gaskets you throw at them they are fucked
    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    the theory is the fuel pump is one of the only things that can fuck out on a diesel

  29. #29
    Registered User RB30-POWER's Avatar
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    Ok, so I was able to spend a little time on this only.

    I extracted the fault codes and got code 11 for ECU losing power supply. (The info I have states this is either wiring, ecu or ecu relay related)

    I tend to believe this is what's happening the ecu loses power for like a split second you loose revs/power and engine light flicks on, then split second later it's all normal again.

    I removed the ecu and inspected but the dodgy caps mustn't affect these ecu it visually looked all ok.

    I'm not sure what relay code 11 would relate to, the efi main relay under the bonnet or the circuit opening relay under the kick panel, which i thought was mainly for the air flow meter to control the fuel pump mainly?

    I swapped the main relay over, cleared codes and will see what happens after the bloke drives it.

    I wish it wasn't intermittant and just stopped, would be easy to diagnose then.

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