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Thread: Got a 3D printer now, it's fun!

  1. #1711
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    Those speaker surrounds look very professional, but how do you get the 'plans' for something like that,
    or do you scan an existing part as a pattern please?

  2. #1712
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    Quote Originally Posted by madeupname View Post
    Those speaker surrounds look very professional, but how do you get the 'plans' for something like that,
    or do you scan an existing part as a pattern please?
    Assuming the part is not complex they can be drawn in emachineshop very easily (export as .stl) if you are unable to download it or know how to use full blown 3d software.

    This took me about 5 minutes, dimensioned of pdf drawings I already had.

    Last edited by Fondles; 17-01-19 at 04:55 AM.

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  3. #1713
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    Thank you, I'm an interested lurker here, and admiring the results some of you get

  4. #1714
    Registered User GSRman's Avatar
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    anyone had success/failure with TPU/TPE ninjaflex etc?
    This is a post i wrote by mistake, which is nice...

  5. #1715
    Baked Dachi Benonymous's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSRman View Post
    anyone had success/failure with TPU/TPE ninjaflex etc?
    I have successfully printed with both (Nijaflex is TPU) TPE is fairly easy to work with. It is important that your extruder does not have a big, unsupported gap between the drive wheel and the tube that the filament feeds into. The rule with all flexibles is "slow, hot, no retract" so my settings would be (for TPE) 40mm/s, 240C and set retract to zero. TPU is generally softer than TPE and can easily compress in the drive mech and get minced up so it might need further tweaking.

    If you're starting out with flexible, I'd go with TPE to get the hang of it. BTW, if your printer is Bowden tube rather than direct you can get some harder flexible filament (forgotten the maker) but generally, normal TPU and TPE wont work as it compresses and folds in the tube.
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  6. #1716
    Registered User GSRman's Avatar
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    Thanks Benny -
    This is a post i wrote by mistake, which is nice...

  7. #1717
    Jak Sie Masz! trent from punchy's Avatar
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    Got one in the office now, a Lulzbot mini 2. Quick, easy and good quality.
    Ive done pretty much every gopro mount I could find now.. what's next?
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  8. #1718
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marty! View Post
    A friend with a farm of a few mk2s got an mk3 same time I did and reckons he cant get quite the same quality from the mk3 yet. He prints a few thousand things a month so Im inclined to believe him. Reckons the mk3 will take some time to get tweaked to be as good and the smarts are better of course too.
    How are you finding the MK3?

  9. #1719
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    Are any of the regular print plastics good enough to use as ignition coil brackets for COP coils at engine bay temps? For a 13b so can have pretty thick section around coil.

    I currently have cnc aluminium but they cheaped out and have the same coil locating bolt/connector orientation for front and rear rotor which is emotional to fit (and requires bending thd coil boot firmly) if you still have an air conditioner pump. Would like to improve design and pay one of you blokes to print in plastic if practical otherwise it will go to a shop and I'll have to get 10 made from aluminium to make it worth while.
    Last edited by Slides; 18-02-19 at 08:09 PM. Reason: Phone fingers

  10. #1720
    Opens AxGT's Avatar
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    You _might_ get away with it with ABS - it's glass transition temp is 105c, so if its not copping heaps of radiant heat, it will probably survive.
    Not sure anyone here is set up to print Nylon or PEEK/PEI.
    Dirty Subaru owner

  11. #1721
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    I might give it a go anyway, will learn something if nothing else. What model formats/software are most people using?

  12. #1722
    No I'm Not Shonky Shonky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slides View Post
    I might give it a go anyway, will learn something if nothing else. What model formats/software are most people using?
    Fusion 360 (free version) output to STL and load into Slic3r software to either print directly to printer or write Gcode to memory stick. Pretty simple really.

    Or just output the STL and send to a printer on one of the 3D printer sites like 3DHubs. Saves a lot of fucking around tuning it if you have a cheap printer.

    Main thing is to understand how prints are built up when designing IMO.
    Last edited by Shonky; 18-02-19 at 08:51 PM.

  13. #1723
    Opens AxGT's Avatar
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    STL is the most generally accepted. Personally, I use Fusion 360 mostly when modelling from scratch. I've not got any ABS, nor have I printed it before (PLA, PETG, and TPU only here)
    Dirty Subaru owner

  14. #1724
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Nicholson View Post
    So these turned out pretty good!


    Yeah, I did some speaker spacers for my Liberty up - working great

    Rear ones during the print
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Dirty Subaru owner

  15. #1725
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    Thanks blokes. Did a bit of pro-E back at uni, then pretty much no design in first job, did several solidworks courses with work over the last couple of years so hopefully I can muddle my way through fusion 360, should be very basic extrude/cut operations for any bracketry/plates I will want for automotive stuff.

    Might even be worth getting a low quality printer just for fitment checking even if I end up getting metallic parts lazer cut/cnc'd. I guess if you go a bit lego spec you could make shape evelope stuff for large turbos etc in numerous parts with lots of void and glue together for fitment checking.

  16. #1726
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    Wanted to make some basic bins for some toolboxes and sent it to a place to print. Wanted 180 dollars so I said fuck that and have a lulzbot Taz 6 on the way.
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  17. #1727
    Registered User Brad88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLAYA View Post
    Wanted to make some basic bins for some toolboxes and sent it to a place to print. Wanted 180 dollars so I said fuck that and have a lulzbot Taz 6 on the way.
    Was it purely the bed size that made you pick the Taz 6 over the Prusa Mk3S or the Up Box+?

    I'm looking at my options now. Prusa is nice any cheap but support seems to be an issue, UpBox+ is enclosed so likely to limit the smell of burnt plastic but the Taz 6 has a bigger bed.
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  18. #1728
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    I did some googling and I watch a dude on insta 3d magic mike uses a taz6. It has been not bad. I just bought an enclosure for it so I'll see how abs goes. It was average with no enclosure. I was going to buy an ultimaker. But that is 5k. Taz was 3500 but then factor in an enclosure 500 and say dual head for say 800 it's the same price. I'm not sure what I would do again. If time is worth anything to you I would spend up on purchase for less fuck around. Mind you I have never printer before and I was going pretty quick.
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  19. #1729
    I'm not a real engineer taijohnsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sssgtr View Post
    How are you finding the MK3?
    Still the best bang for buck IMO.. The MK3 is pretty well established now and the iterative upgrade MK3S is out as well as huge updates in the slicer software and firmware.

    I haven't spent a cent, or upgraded any part of it. It just works.

  20. #1730
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    I think im going to upgrade my Voron soon, build a new Voron 2.1 http://vorondesign.com

    The Voron 1 still works relatively well, but a few things are getting dicky with it, like the depth sensor sometimes just glitches out, and the E3D chimera hotend really cant dissipate enough heat when using both hot ends regularly.

    The linear rails on the 2.1 look like they will add a lot of stability, and having it enclosed by default makes for a nicer environment.
    Chris
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  21. #1731
    Registered User GSRman's Avatar
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    That voron website is sparse - im assuming the community links are where the detail is at?
    This is a post i wrote by mistake, which is nice...

  22. #1732
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSRman View Post
    That voron website is sparse - im assuming the community links are where the detail is at?
    If you dig into the site then the manual has most of the info, and is really quite in depth. https://www.dropbox.com/s/rhljf791hx...anual.pdf?dl=0
    But yeah, it is community driven since the main designer couldnt keep it up as a full time commercial thing.

    I was the first to build a Voron 1 after the designer. its quite a good design.
    Chris
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  23. #1733
    Registered User GSRman's Avatar
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    The slop in my creator is getting worse - so I need to give it a birthday or move on - it also needs to move to the shed, so an enclosure has to happen too.
    This is a post i wrote by mistake, which is nice...

  24. #1734
    Registered User Brad88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLAYA View Post
    I did some googling and I watch a dude on insta 3d magic mike uses a taz6. It has been not bad. I just bought an enclosure for it so I'll see how abs goes. It was average with no enclosure. I was going to buy an ultimaker. But that is 5k. Taz was 3500 but then factor in an enclosure 500 and say dual head for say 800 it's the same price. I'm not sure what I would do again. If time is worth anything to you I would spend up on purchase for less fuck around. Mind you I have never printer before and I was going pretty quick.
    cheers for the feedback.
    '93 6SPD T04Z 1UZ JZA80 Supra
    '93 Auto T04Z JZA80 Supra

    Venom Automotive - Billet Components to suit a variety of Automotive Applications including JZ, UZ & RB Engines.

  25. #1735
    Registered User MWP's Avatar
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    So is this what Bill was thinking of when he first chose the subject for this discussion?
    (sorry its big, thought it was worth it for the laugh though)

    Last edited by MWP; 23-05-19 at 06:39 PM.

  26. #1736
    No I'm Not Shonky Shonky's Avatar
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    *per se

  27. #1737
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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