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Thread: DIY front splitter materials

  1. #31
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Corflute is way too weak and flexible, street signs are 1.6mm aluminium.

    Aluminium composite panel aka Signbond, Alucabond, AluG, Alubond, ACP, would be the simplest lightweight, rigid material. It's generally 0.21mm or 0.3mm aluminium each side with polyethylene centre, overall thickness 3 or 4mm. In the US they get the honeycomb centre but I've never seen it here. Easy to drill, rivet, cut, etc. It'll be alright for 2-3" overhang, I'm not sure how much further it would go unsupported before it starts to flex too much.

  2. #32
    Registered User Streety's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mazda_DohC View Post
    what a small world .. I know that car its up in the central coast . the blokes a real racer and has a nicely set up car. the carbon fibre kit he got i delivered to him as I work for an interntional couirer company.
    The motorsport world is very small mate not many of us dickheads about LOL

  3. #33
    Opens demuire's Avatar
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    What about HDPE? That's what I used to make my splitter, it's relatively cheap, easy to work with. You can get it from plastic suppliers, and it comes in sheets. I think it's the same material as what chopping boards are made of?


    Fook.

  4. #34
    Registered User spiller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neil_se View Post
    Corflute is way too weak and flexible, street signs are 1.6mm aluminium.

    Aluminium composite panel aka Signbond, Alucabond, AluG, Alubond, ACP, would be the simplest lightweight, rigid material. It's generally 0.21mm or 0.3mm aluminium each side with polyethylene centre, overall thickness 3 or 4mm. In the US they get the honeycomb centre but I've never seen it here. Easy to drill, rivet, cut, etc. It'll be alright for 2-3" overhang, I'm not sure how much further it would go unsupported before it starts to flex too much.
    This is the stuff they call Alumilite in the states? it pooped up quite a few times on searches. Where would one purchase this material?

    Quote Originally Posted by demuire View Post
    What about HDPE? That's what I used to make my splitter, it's relatively cheap, easy to work with. You can get it from plastic suppliers, and it comes in sheets. I think it's the same material as what chopping boards are made of?


    Fook.
    Chopping board is what I talked about in OP. Have you got any pics of your splitter? Is it fairly light?
    Last edited by spiller; 08-01-12 at 10:27 AM.

  5. #35
    Registered User 260BC's Avatar
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    Plain aluminium sheet is a good DIY material because it can be bent and there is a range of suitable fasteners such as rivets and rivet nuts which are readily available. Mine is 1.6mm thick which is a nice balance between weight and strength. The splitter and undertray on the Z is huge, had to make it in three pieces so being able to fasten it all together and easily attach it under the car was very important. Various extruded lengths such as channel are also available, they can be riveted/glued onto the sheet to strengthen it where required.

    Just hope it does not get damaged because al buckles which makes it hard to repair because it is stretched and so is not a DIY recovery job, unlike steel.

  6. #36
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spiller View Post
    This is the stuff they call Alumilite in the states? it pooped up quite a few times on searches. Where would one purchase this material?
    Yes although sometimes they might be referring to the honeycomb core stuff. It's a common signwriting material, I'm not sure what suppliers you've got down there but I get it through Mulford Plastics. I pay about $45 a sheet (1220x2440x3mm) but go through a pallet a month, retail price is probably closer to $100?

  7. #37
    Registered User spiller's Avatar
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    thats still pretty cheap, id be willing to drop 100 bucks for something that is easier to work with and less effort (i.e. no glass or waterproofing). thats a pretty big sheet though, wouldnt need anywhere near that much. Probably more like 1000x1800. There is a supplier here in the CBD that ill call and ask. What do they call it in Aus neil_se? Alumilite or alubond?
    Last edited by spiller; 08-01-12 at 10:02 PM.

  8. #38
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Aluminium Composite Panel is the actual product, the rest are brand names. It won't come in smaller sheets than that, just jigsaw 2 at once so you've got a spare.

  9. #39
    Opens demuire's Avatar
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    I'm pretty sure I bought mine from Cut To Size Plastics (http://www.cuttosize.com.au/). Don't remember how much it was now (it was a few years ago), but I don't remember it being overly expensive. It's not particularly light (or heavy for that matter), it's lighter than metal, not sure about how it compares to plywood. I don't have any photos of it currently, but I can try to take some maybe tomorrow. Mine doesn't stick out from under the car, I use it mostly to reinforce the fibreglass front splitter which used to crack and shatter every time I hit anything. It's taken a fair beating and is still good, I've even jacked the car up on it by accident before.

  10. #40
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    Any thin material will vibrate, and that will slow you down. This is a pic of the last one i made, and i went with front diffusers built in. You just have to make the sides of the tunnels on the outer edge like in the pic. Took about an hour to make the whole thing. But i do have a template to cut them out.

    NA8B 89KW- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181KW- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VP 293KW- P.I 1:46.0 WNTN 1:33.5

  11. #41
    ARE YOU REAAAAADY? Grunt's Avatar
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    what about a lexan or makrolan (sp?) set up? Some form of poly plastic?
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  12. #42
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    problem with many plastics is bonding or fixing it. Ply is good, form ply will do. Ali/plastic sheet is soso with impacts, good with rubs on the ground.
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  13. #43
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Grunt, Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate and has very high impact toughness,
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  14. #44
    Registered User spiller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightyear View Post
    Any thin material will vibrate, and that will slow you down. This is a pic of the last one i made, and i went with front diffusers built in. You just have to make the sides of the tunnels on the outer edge like in the pic. Took about an hour to make the whole thing. But i do have a template to cut them out.

    So that is the aluminium composite panel in the pic lightyear?

    I just did some ringing around and can get a large sheet for about $80 so I think ill give it a go. Lightyear do you think 3mm is too thin? Dont really want it vibrating or flopping about but I will be securing it to the chassis with support rods at the front and brackets at the rear. What was the purpose of bending the edges up like that, to strengthen the material to stop movement or for increased downforce?

  15. #45
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    I think 4mm is too heavy (I also think the 3mm is too heavy,but...). The undertray is about a meter long, and only supported at the bumper and the crossmember for the engine. I curved up both sides to act as tunnels to create downforce. Maybe that's why the car had so much oversteer, the front had too much aero. But i doubt it. I am just trying to create less upforce that is built into theses cars. You can put alloy angle on to support it if you are worried. That's what i did on my turbo car. If you look close you can see the rest of the undertray in front of the tyre in the pic.
    NA8B 89KW- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181KW- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VP 293KW- P.I 1:46.0 WNTN 1:33.5

  16. #46
    Registered User spiller's Avatar
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    Yep mine will be about 1m long as well. I don't think im going to fasten to bumper though. Will try and fab up some brackets to fasten to the chassis rails and the front bumper crash bar if I can find some support rods long enough. My bumper will flex too much negating any aero anyway. I reckon I can do this for under $150 which is pretty good considering the cheapest CF option in that size is 600-700.

  17. #47
    Opens demuire's Avatar
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    The front half of mine is attached to 2 steel angle brackets from bunnings that I bolted to the toe hook eyes on the chassis. The back half is bolted to existing holes on the engine crossmember.


    Fook.

  18. #48
    Nay sayer Mr Ed's Avatar
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    Alucobond is good stuff but you cant bend it round smooth curves, has to be either flat or you can notch the back of it to sort of 'step' it for tight radius corners.

    Its the stuff you see on alot of commercial buildings, such as this:


    In cross section it looks like this:


    We used it for Damo's switch/fuse panel in the datto. Im using it for a gauge backing. Rowds wants some to use as door skins.....but its cool but expensive stuff so we only use it when I can scavenge stuff from on of our build sites.

    I can get the basic colours (black/etc) for $65/mē+GST, but shipping is pretty expensive and theres no distributor in Canberra. You might have better luck in Adelaide, but you have to stick to whole sheet sizes, which are:
    2500 x 1250
    3200 x 1250
    4000 x 1250
    2500 x 1575
    3200 x 1575
    4000 x 1575

    2500x1250 would be the go, at $65/mē+GST youre looking at around $225. Thats at trade price and excluding shipping. Would give you a few spare bits for various uses.
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  19. #49
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    It bends fine. Just not a sharp 90* bend. The face of my splitter is all curved. It would bend around a jack handle.
    NA8B 89KW- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
    NB8B 181KW- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
    VP 293KW- P.I 1:46.0 WNTN 1:33.5

  20. #50
    Nay sayer Mr Ed's Avatar
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    Have you used some alucobond on yours? Youre splitter looks like its a single layer material (?). Alucobond is a good 3-4mm thick....perhaps there are similar products around which are thinner?

    Ive got pretty tight 90° corners all over buildings, you just notch the back and it bends pretty easily. Can probably get some radius in the corners but it would either have to be notched/stepped or a quite wide radius, like at least 1m or so at a guess. If you bend it too much without notching the back it splits.
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  21. #51
    Registered User Justengt4's Avatar
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    I just used 2.5mm aluminium sheet. With some solid mounting points you can stand on it with no flex and it was fine @ 260kph. A tad on the heavy side but you're only talking a coupla kilo or so and what's downforce if not weight It's thick enough to take nutserts nice and solidly.

    Ply is just too ghetto for my liking and by the time you add glass it's heavier than aluminium with 10 times the farking around?
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  22. #52
    Registered User spiller's Avatar
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    Ed, 225 +GST at trade price :o. I have found a place here in Adelaide that can supply a 3mm sheet in 2450x1250 for $76 including GST. I found there were huge price variations when I got quotes though. Maybe your stuff is fire proof? Not too fussed if it doesnt bend because im going with a flat design but I'm going to steal your idea of gauge backing because I need to make one of those too. Should have enough material left over from the big sheet I think.

  23. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Ed View Post
    ..............or you can notch the back of it to sort of 'step' it for tight radius corners..........
    "kerfing" FYI

    Mick

  24. #54
    Nay sayer Mr Ed's Avatar
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    Lol, yeah that

    $76 must be for a different product....what did you get? Plain alum sheet?

    PS. The $225 was inc GST, still high though.
    Last edited by Mr Ed; 11-01-12 at 10:35 AM.
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  25. #55
    Registered User spiller's Avatar
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    That price was for 3mm aluminium composite panel in white finish (which they tell me is the cheapest option). I did get prices up to $140 plus GST for the same product however. Unsure of the particular brand name, one was "Alutile" but that was expensive.

  26. #56
    Nay sayer Mr Ed's Avatar
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    Sounds pretty good. There are similar but cheaper products around (Vitrabond/etc)....but I didnt realise there were some that much cheaper!

    Makes using it for this sort of thing a much more feasible idea!
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  27. #57
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Alubobond is probably the only one with a 25 year guarantee, most signage ones are 7-10 years hence the price difference.

  28. #58
    Registered User spiller's Avatar
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    if it lasts 2 years ill be happy!

  29. #59
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    sorry for the bump, but finally dug up the car that originally inspired mine : http://picasaweb.google.com/rdmtsjr/...iltForNASATTS#
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  30. #60
    Brown Cunt MR-PUNANNY's Avatar
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    BUMP! Whats everyone using 6 years later? And Rear diffusers too
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