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Thread: New AC/DC TIG option - cheaper CIG FYI

  1. #61
    THE CISCO KID ROBAPHENT's Avatar
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    Options im looking at.

    http://www.dandygas.com.au/product/w...tig-machine-2/

    on another note, why cant they just bring out a 4 - 1 machine. that is stick, mig, and AC DC tig. like come on we live in 2018 :P
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  2. #62
    Registered User bang chong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROBAPHENT View Post
    Options im looking at.

    http://www.dandygas.com.au/product/w...tig-machine-2/

    on another note, why cant they just bring out a 4 - 1 machine. that is stick, mig, and AC DC tig. like come on we live in 2018 :P
    Everlast just did, pulse mig also.

  3. #63
    Registered User bang chong's Avatar
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    Anyway my everlast 210ext still is going strong after 2years. I used to write off the unimig razor 200 AC/DC tig but have been using one at work for the last 4months and isnít that bad.


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  4. #64
    Registered User Paul M's Avatar
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    Happy with my Everlast 255EXT

  5. #65
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    Unfortunately the Everlast are a bit out of my budget

    The Unimig Razor and Weldarc are more in my price range. Definitely prefer the 3 year warranty on Razor over the 2 year on the Weldarc though.

    Will be mainly welding stainless but hope to progress to alloy down the track
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  6. #66
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    Happy with my razor.
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  7. #67
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROBAPHENT View Post
    Options im looking at.

    http://www.dandygas.com.au/product/w...tig-machine-2/

    on another note, why cant they just bring out a 4 - 1 machine. that is stick, mig, and AC DC tig. like come on we live in 2018 :P
    The problem is reliability, due to cramming so much shit in a ever increasingly smaller package.
    it's like the 3 in 1 TIG, plasma, mig machines. They are generally only made by Chinese eBay efforts.
    The ac TIG component requires HF to start, which if the PCBs are not properly insulated the HF jumps from board to board, then it goes bang.

  8. #68
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    Ended up ordering a Razor from E welders at just over $500 off.

    Great people to deal with, the sales rep was an experienced welder who knew the machine and had used one himself.
    Delivery was only $30 so it wasn't even worth picking it up from the other side of town.

    https://www.ewelders.com.au/unimig-r...umjrrz200acdc/

    I'll report back once I have made some aluminium disappear and glued some stainless together
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  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo510 View Post
    Ended up ordering a Razor from E welders at just over $500 off.

    Great people to deal with, the sales rep was an experienced welder who knew the machine and had used one himself.
    Delivery was only $30 so it wasn't even worth picking it up from the other side of town.

    https://www.ewelders.com.au/unimig-r...umjrrz200acdc/

    I'll report back once I have made some aluminium disappear and glued some stainless together
    I hope you chose well, I've just spontaneously purchased that one as an early birthday present to myself. Ignore the PM I just sent you, I've got all the info I needed. Kim is indeed a good bloke and knowledgeable.

  10. #70
    Registered User bang chong's Avatar
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    This is the new everlast unit I was talking about

  11. #71
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    They are a decent machine bang for buck wise. The foot pedals are a bit average.
    HF cards and display boards are the common things to fail. But parts are available in AUS and even then, it's not something guaranteed to fail.
    Biggest issue I saw was people setting them up incorrectly.
    Overall a pretty solid machine that welds alot better then most other machines in its price range.
    Just my 2c

  12. #72
    Registered User bang chong's Avatar
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    Have seen people adapt Lincoln pedals to suit. I mean basically for a free pedal, you should expect it to be pretty mediocre. I think my last boss paid around $800 for his Bluetooth miller pedal and the normal wired ones were around $400 anyway


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  13. #73
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Yeah adapting pedals is pretty straightforward.
    It's not the shittest one on the market ( that would be the topgun pedals) but if you use the pedal every time you weld, it may get on your tits.

  14. #74
    Registered User bang chong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euronymous View Post
    Yeah adapting pedals is pretty straightforward.
    It's not the shittest one on the market ( that would be the topgun pedals) but if you use the pedal every time you weld, it may get on your tits.
    Thatís true, we had a weldmaster tig and I hated using it because of the clunky pedal.

    I guess my everlast one doesnít bother me that much since itís my home welder and always intended of adapting a better one if I wanted too.

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    I finally killed my Unimig after 3 years of solid abuse. Have swapped out to the Lincoln 201, considering it's a competitor to the Unimig it is a hell of a lot nicer.

  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by afraid View Post
    I finally killed my Unimig after 3 years of solid abuse. Have swapped out to the Lincoln 201, considering it's a competitor to the Unimig it is a hell of a lot nicer.
    You'd go the Lincoln over the Unimig? That's the one I linked on the previous page, was hoping someone had experience with both.

  17. #77
    Registered User bang chong's Avatar
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    Are we talking about a Lincoln or their entry level powercraft series?


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  18. #78
    25 schmeckles? Do the safety dance.'s Avatar
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    The one I linked is the power craft. afraid may be talking of something else.
    I have done little research as of yet, so tend to go with the name brand as the safer option.

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    Picked up a Tokentools Elite 215 towards the end of last year. Was interested in the [specified] increased duty cycle over some of the cheaper Lincoln, Unimig, Cigweld, etc... options. Specs seem to be on par with the next Everlast ones (which were my other alternative in the price range) and the next level up in the Lincoln/Cigweld range (which are significantly more expensive). Foot controller seems nice and linear but it's been a while since I've used an alternative.

    Haven't tackled aloominum yet but it has performed well on DC. Can also save settings, which is nice when you find something that works, though I am sure that is pretty common these days too. They do come cheaper if you don't want a built in plasma cutter, or if you want to reduce the warranty down from 5 years to something shorter.

  20. #80
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    Only thing the unimig razor lacks is preset programs. Upside is that it takes 30sec to set at the start of a job and makes you think about each setting and what it does.

    If your preset is wrong but you dont know what half the shit does, you'll have fun trying to sort it out.

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  21. #81
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bang chong View Post
    Are we talking about a Lincoln or their entry level powercraft series?


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    Yeah they are, like a lot of entry level welders a bit hit and miss. The 180i mig I used to see a lot of. Board failures etc.

  22. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by da9jeff View Post
    Only thing the unimig razor lacks is preset programs. Upside is that it takes 30sec to set at the start of a job and makes you think about each setting and what it does.

    If your preset is wrong but you dont know what half the shit does, you'll have fun trying to sort it out.

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    I bought one last year as well. I have only played around with 2T on mild steel so far but it is so much easier to use than the old gasless mig i had and gives a much nicer result.

    I agree on the set up. It forced me to read up before i started sticking bit's of metal together and because you knew what it was doing you could adjust a specific setting.
    meh

  23. #83
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Yeah once my cemont thx 160 finally dies in the arse I'll get a unitig 200. I'd love a miller dynasty, best ac TIG welder I've used. But the near 4k price tag is a bit rapey.
    Also for any one with 3ph check out the 315 ac/dc, same size just a shit ton more power. Although anything over 200 amps requires a water cooled torch...

  24. #84
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    My Unimig just turned up. Should be a fun weekend figuring out how to use it.

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    First go at TIG welding with the Unimig Razor

    Got the Razor set up, got a C of Argon from Bunnings, cleaned up a bit of old mild steel flat bar, and got welding.

    First impression, it's more like oxy acetylene welding than either MIG or stick, which is fortunate, as I was sort of OK with oxy a quarter of a century ago, good enough to make headers and exhaust systems. I only managed to stick the tungsten into the weld puddle a couple of times.

    Anyway, here's my first attempt, lap and T joints, 75 amps, 1.6mm tungsten, 2mm ER70S-6 filler rod (that was all Bunnings had in stock).

    When you've finished laughing, please list the top 10 things I'm doing wrong.


    Side a:




    Side b:

  26. #86
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    Grind the mill scale off of it. And for the love of god buy your consumables from a welding shop not Bunnings. You probably paid $12 for 10c worth of filler wire. Bunning gas is good value tho.

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    Thanks Jeff for your comments. I ground the mill scale off the bar it was shiny steel when I started welding. Itís like the mill scale grew back, I assume something I did wrong caused this.

    And I had ordered a 5kg pack of rods from the guys I brought the welder from, but they didnít turn up in time for the weekend, so it was either get raped and pillaged by Bunnings, or weld with coat hangers.

  28. #88
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    Turn the amps wayyyyy down.

    is that 1.6mm sheet? If so, try 30A, and use the thickest mig wire you have for filler. What size cup, how much tungsten stickout, what gas flow rate, etc.

    For me and my machines:

    1.6mm mild steel sheet
    1.6mm 2% lanthanated tungsten, (dark blue tip)
    20-40A DC
    #8 cup
    3/16"/2.5mm tungsten stickout
    10-12cf/h argon flow
    0.045" rod /1mm rod

    Try back with less amps and smaller wire, you might have to move slower/faster. Show us both sides of the weld, and if you've got time, saw straight down through the weld and look at the cross section.

    That'll show you the quickest way to TIG skillz

  29. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    Turn the amps wayyyyy down.

    is that 1.6mm sheet? If so, try 30A, and use the thickest mig wire you have for filler. What size cup, how much tungsten stickout, what gas flow rate, etc.

    For me and my machines:

    1.6mm mild steel sheet
    1.6mm 2% lanthanated tungsten, (dark blue tip)
    20-40A DC
    #8 cup
    3/16"/2.5mm tungsten stickout
    10-12cf/h argon flow
    0.045" rod /1mm rod

    Try back with less amps and smaller wire, you might have to move slower/faster. Show us both sides of the weld, and if you've got time, saw straight down through the weld and look at the cross section.

    That'll show you the quickest way to TIG skillz
    Thanks Xnke, valuable as usual.

    The steel in the photos is 3mm, and the filler rod I was using was 2.4mm. If I understand what's going on here, the high amperage is causing the undercutting, and the thick filler is cooling the weld puddle too quickly, making the uneven convex finish.

    The other mistake I discovered was I was running about twice the gas flow I needed, I thought the flow meter was in cf/h, it's litres/min. So I'll turn that down from 25 to about 7.

    I've got some 0.8mm MIG wire, will give that a run at lower amperage, per your suggestion. I've also got some 1.6mm gal sheet, will grind the gal off it and have a practice on it at your recommended settings.

    Other parameters I'm currently running:

    #7 cup (Only one I have at this point)
    4.5mm of stick out (will reduce this to your suggested)
    1.6 Thoriated (sp?) tungsten (have a choice of Thoriated or Ceriated)

    Thanks again for your advice.

  30. #90
    Registered User bang chong's Avatar
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    I like to use 1.6mm filler wire for that thickness. I use 2.4 on thicker steel.

    Probably going to have a hard time with the gal unless you grind both sides of it off. As the weld pools it pulls everything from the backside also as you could imagine




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