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Thread: 4 Door E30 beater.

  1. #31
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    Checked out fitment today. Can't believe how good a new set of wheels make an average looking car look so much better.



    Fronts fit, they don't rub on anything when turning lock to lock





    But.....



    A little close to the threads. Haha. Might look at running a 3 or 4mm spacer I think, should give me just a little more room, especially once tyres are mounted, but the guards are pretty good. Should tuck under the guards ok I reckon, bit of extra camber, maybe roll the guards and might get away without having to do much else.



    Dish is awesome though, looks great.



    Rears look awesome too.



    And the fitment is pretty flush. I don't think they'll need anything done in the rear.





    Going to put some 215/45's on tomorrow and see how we go with space.
    Quote Originally Posted by Buford T. Justice
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  2. #32
    Fondles
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    Quote Originally Posted by Madhatr View Post
    Pretty simple to fit, basically the same as the OEM ones, just with a locking nut to hold the joints in place. Only difference is washers sit each side of the swaybar, then one on the underside of the control arm to stop anything pulling through.

    Did you tighten that with a shifter ?

  3. #33
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    The marks are from a ring spanner because it grips on the sides of the edges, not across the corners, but what looks like it being rounded off is actually grease. Id used some silicone rubber grease to slide rack end boot into place and I got a bit of it everywhere, didn't even notice it in places till doing the brakes this week.
    Last edited by Madhatr; 19-02-12 at 02:52 PM.

  4. #34
    Fondles
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    Cool cool, you appear to be very thorough and when I saw that I was like WTF !!

    sweet project btw.

  5. #35
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    wheels and tyres fitted today.









    The fronts rubbed on the spring perch, so I wound it up (added more preload) to see if I could get it to clear. It worked, but then it rubbed on the threaded section of the coilover too. Damn it. Purchased some 8mm spacers today to make 100% sure they clear everything, but looking at the car it could do with a little extra offset too as its not quite flush. Needs be lower all round too, but because of it rubbing, not happening at the moment. heh.

    Looks great though.

  6. #36
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    They look really good but as you said needs to be a little bit lower. When does the 2J go in?

  7. #37
    Registered User 50RTD's Avatar
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    Looks fantastic on the new wheels!

  8. #38
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    Get a repco brake pipe spanner - I have one and it's the bee's fucking knees - works perfectly for all brake pipe needs ^_^.

    Secondly this is a fucking cool thread. I enjoy your updates. I really should do similar things with my car - especially when i can do nice things to do it again!

    Question about the coilovers, it's a pretty generic question, what sort of spring rates do you have on there, and how comfortable are they? My coil overs are a little on the ridiculously stiff side, so i was thinking of getting some lighter springs.

  9. #39
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I drove it to gym tonight and in a flat carpark, the rear actually sits pretty perfect. Its almost tucked down to the rim protector, its just our driveway is curved I think so it looks different in the pics. They could be slightly closer to the guards in the rear though, but ive got some 8mm spacers on the way from the US now. Eventually want to run 235/40R17's on the rear, so they might not need the spacers in the rear anyway. See what happens when they arrive.

    Fronts certainly need to be dropped an inch, and to be honest I have wound them in an inch or more, its just that I was messing around with the preload too in order to get the bottom spring perch to clear the wheels, so the spring is keeping it sitting higher. With the spacers to clear Ill back off the bottom spring perch as its far too stiff at the over the little bumps. Only have the fronts set on 7 too.

    richzx, ultimately if my ankle keeps improving, was thinking maybe keeping it bmw and going with a 3L M54 and 6 speed for a bit of fun. Not sure if I want to tackle a v8 install myself and im not sure if I can live with the 2L motor for much longer as its pretty bloody slow. haha. See what happens in the next couple of months. A3 is sold now so ive got a bit of spare cash, might look at getting someone to do a conversion.

    jews, will check out the brake spanner tomorrow, thanks . I went 6kg and 8kg. I really wanted to run 5.5 and 8.5 front and rear but they wouldnt do half kg increases. Works out to be about 330lbs front, 445lbs rear. If im honest, the front is ok day to day if you back the bottom perch all the way off, rides the small bumps ok with the damper set to 7 or 8. Anything more and it can get a little rough over the small stuff if your roads are terrible. Rears, no problems, im going to adjust the damper a little more as ive only got it on 4 at the moment because I was a little worried about it being too stiff, but no worries for day to day driving. Ill turn it up to 8 like the front and see how it goes. So, 6kg and 8kg front and rear is fine even on bad roads. Did a round trip to redcliffe on friday, spent 3hrs in the car and it was pretty good, certainly live with it day by day. Cal has some on his too, but I think he went with 6kg front and rear as he has a 4 cylinder.

    What are you running?

  10. #40
    Registered User Shitbreak's Avatar
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    sweet jesus. Great choice on the wheels. RS's look great on any car. I would have lowered it maybe an inch more though
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX19X View Post
    Shitbreak is the epitome of perfection.

  11. #41
    Sidetracked BMWTurbo's Avatar
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    Wow, looks great.

    Did well to get 8.5's on there

  12. #42
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    box of parts arrived from BMA parts. Any aussies looking for stuff, they will price match if you see it cheaper, so give them a try. Great prices and excellent communication.



    Ball joints, wheel hubs (front bearings are shot), rack end boots, tie rod, boot and antenna seals, door stop (mine is clicking really bad), couple of door light switches (which are a bit dodgy), plus engine and trans mounts. All the mechanical stuff should be pretty good now, will start looking at a few bushes which I might replace with polyurethane as the rubber is looking a little dry, but most of the front end will be brand new now.
    Last edited by Madhatr; 23-02-12 at 08:35 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Buford T. Justice
    This happens every time one of these floozies starts poontangin' around with those show folk fags.

  13. #43
    Sidetracked BMWTurbo's Avatar
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    Let me know if your small (outer) BJ get's to about 3-4mm from seating and then really thump in to place? Had this happen when pressing both outer BJ's into arms the other month and scared the shit out of us when it finally snapped in to place after putting big pressure on it with the press.

    The only thing I could come up with was the std BJ's spline wasn't as 'deep' as the replacements. Also found out later that you can put the boots on AFTER installing.

  14. #44
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    hehe. Yeah, mine have little caps over the joint to protect it. What brand did you buy? ive got some meyle ones. Quickly read the instructions and there are notches on the ball joint that is supposed to line up with the control arm bush end, as in a line right through the middle of the joint and the arm.

  15. #45
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    Have you tried looking at parts on Schmiedmann? Thats where i got my parts from they had a lot of stuff that I couldn't find in America. Parts were damn cheap too most things were 60% cheaper than from BMW Australia and all parts were genuine too.

  16. #46
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    I have, but they don't have lots of stuff in stock I wanted to order. Quite a few parts were 7 days or more, so I didn't want to wait. Would rather order everything together and have it sent quickly than have to wait for things to come in stock. Don't mind paying a little extra too, but in this case, there wasn't much difference in cost. You have to be careful of what you order from them though as some manufacturers now make cheaper components made overseas. So you buy something made by bilstein or meyle thinking its the good quality, german made part, but its actually made in china, india or taiwan. Quite often have brand name parts listed that come in both, you need to read the info to find out if its OE quality or the cheaper part.
    Last edited by Madhatr; 24-02-12 at 09:27 AM.

  17. #47
    Sidetracked BMWTurbo's Avatar
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    Pretty sure my BJ's are Yum Cha... They didn't have any markings like the factory ones and when I removed the rubber boot, it was clear why, they don't have an elongated slot, rather they are just like a normal BJ and can move through 360 degrees, not just the elongated path so made no difference how I installed them.

    I have bought special order stuff from Schmiedmann before, the rear CV for the E32 was special order. They had it in less than 7-days and it's genuine factory. They even added an item to the order for me whilst waiting for the CV which was great, I didn't expect to be able to add to it.

  18. #48
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    Yeah fair enough. Was just seeing if you knew of them. I always do research first especially on stuff that isnt too important where who made it doesnt matter. I just had good experience with them and was very happy with quality and price.

    But the best thing about them is the special order stuff especially since they specialise so everything fits perfectly.

  19. #49
    Moderator Cal's Avatar
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    Fark that looks good on the rims!
    The most dangerous risk of all - the risk of spending your life not doing what you want, on the bet you can buy yourself the freedom to do it later. - Randy Komisar.

  20. #50
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    x2. Where did you get the rims from?
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  21. #51
    On the E30 bandwagon Setanta's Avatar
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    x3 on the rims - do want

  22. #52
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    Looks like the BB5s from www.wheelwarehouse.com.au

  23. #53
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    they are indeed. wanted to stay with 17's and real RS's in 17" are hard to find, 4 x 100 pattern, even more so and virtually impossible to make (with lips, etc) in this offset/width. About a grand for a set of 17x8.5 from GT wheels or about $800 for 17x7's. Good quality copy, surprised with how light they actually are as copies (especially in big sizes) are usually heavy cast pieces of shit. BBS sued a company called raderwerks for selling a copy that was called BB5's, I wonder if these are made by the same company they got theirs from.
    Last edited by Madhatr; 28-02-12 at 07:34 PM.

  24. #54
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWTurbo View Post
    Pretty sure my BJ's are Yum Cha...
    I'm sure the wife will be pleased.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimi View Post
    80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
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    Sometimes im too busy to take names.

  25. #55
    Team Chapman Racing TCR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guido View Post
    Looks like the BB5s from www.wheelwarehouse.com.au
    Ah sweet, they're the rims I'm looking to get for my Sierra.
    2015 Skoda Octavia RS162TSI
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  26. #56
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    Have no problems recommending them, quality is pretty good.

  27. #57
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    ive got a bunch more steps to update, but it seems ive lost some of the fucking pics! I cleared my sd card last week for some photos and I cant seem to find where I put them, so ill just have to update this thread with these for now. Wanted some front seats to replace my flogged out ones, these popped up on ebay and I grabbed them quick smart!










    They are manual sport seats from an E36 M3, bmw guys will know them as vaders. Sat in them today and they are fucking comfy if you have a fat arse. Suede, rather than leather, should match with the trim, maybe get the rears retrimmed later. Should make a nice addition to the E30, going to physically pick them up tomorrow after work. Should have them bolted in by the weekend if all things go to plan

    Also, got a line on a new motor to go into the car, hopefully work out a package for motor and box. Looking at going 3L M54 and 6 speed. Wasn't sure if I was going to keep the car or sell it on now ive sorted out most of the mechanicals, but took it for a drive last weekend, found some nice smooth roads and I remember why I love them. On shitty rough, pot hole filled roads the suspension drives me fucking nuts, stiff, shit rattles, it makes me want to drive head first into a tree sometimes, but on good roads.... wow. Makes me think im an idiot for even considering it.
    Last edited by Madhatr; 11-06-12 at 10:56 PM.

  28. #58
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    Made up a couple of brackets and mounted one of the vaders tonight after work. The drivers side is the same and I can knock up another set in about 15 mins tomorrow.
    Quote Originally Posted by Buford T. Justice
    This happens every time one of these floozies starts poontangin' around with those show folk fags.

  29. #59
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    Wanted something a little more comfortable than my well used standard seats in the 320i. A pair of E36 vaders in grey suede popped up last week and I managed to snag them for $450. They don't come up forsale very often and when they do you usually have to part with $1000+ to secure them. So needless to say I was pretty happy with the price.



    Started out by removing the old stock seat and just placing one of the vaders in there to get an idea of the difference.





    Turns out it's not really a huge difference. I measured up the rails and made some templates to make up some adapter plates. Need to get things inspected and passed by an engineer to make things all road legal, so while there may be easier ways to mount them, I'm going to make up plates that use the factory mounting points on both the floor pan and the new seat rails.



    These are the typical mounts you'll find out there for the seats. They work too and everything is right as far as dimensions go, but I wanted to play around with the position of the seats a little more. This is simply because the trans tunnel on an E30 is pretty wide, so they have a habit of pushing against your leg which can make it uncomfortable if you are even the slightest bit tall.

    I started off by using some 75mmx5mm steel plate cut to length.



    Marked out the holes for the floor pan bolts. The E36 mount is both wider and longer than the E30 ones.



    Then got set to drilling some 11mm holes. Grab a hole punch and strike the centre to make a divot, then start with a smaller (example, 6mm) drill bit to make a pilot hole for the bigger bit. It's a pretty simple process, a little lubricating oil to keep the tip cool and let it do it's thing.





    With the holes for the floor mounts drilled, I bolted the plates down into the floor pan using the original seat bolts. Plates now in place, I put one of the vaders on top and moved them around to position them as far towards the door as possible. Happy with the position, I simply marked the holes with the seat in place, double checked the markings to make sure they were the right distance to correspond with the seat, then set to drilling them out.



    I used some 50mm M10x1.5 high tensile bolts placed on the underside to form the new studs for the vaders to mount to. Once I placed one of the seats back into position I found a couple of new problems. One of the original seat mounts is too high, it sticks out too far and fouls the seat rails so it needed a trim down. Just thread a nut down over the stud and wind it down until you have enough threads sticking out above to cut off. That way, if you damage any threads you simply wind off the nut, cleaning up the threads in the process. With it cut, I just took a flat file and cleaned up the head a little (not shown in the pic).



    The second problem was because I mounted the seats so far towards the door to get them roughly in the same position as the stock seat. The tab around the right rear mount of the vaders would come into contact with the head of the bolt for the original E30 mount. It's very close, but an easy solution was to simply trim the mount a little. Both the original E30 seats and the E36 vaders have what basically works like a washer on the underside of the mount, it sticks out about 10mm past the flat plate piece I want to trim back. Basically all it seems to do is give something to press down against the carpet and keep it all nice and tidy. I just needed to trim a little bit off the side which seems like no big deal.



    With that done, refitted the seat to make sure everything lined up perfectly. Presto! It did and the seat popped right over the new mounts.



    Next up was to tackle the seat belt. My car is a 4 door which mounts the seat belt to the seat base itself unlike the 2 doors which use a rail. I did some searching on the forums and found a few people suggesting where to mount it, but most of the suggestions seemed wrong. One common one I found suggested that you pop the cover off the top plastic trim (the one with the levers) and it will allow you access to a hole to mount the belt. I checked this out, but there isn't actually anything under there to mount it to, so that is a dude. What I found instead is if you remove the lower plastic trim (it's just held on by one plastic push-clip, then the other end is slipped over the pin through the rail you can see in the 2nd photo) there is a hole in the rail for the seat belt which looks like a factory position. I simply used a combination of a high tensile bolt, some washers and the original spacer to mount the seat belt in place. Of course, nothing is simple and I came across a couple of problems.





    First off, the E30 mount has a tab on the bottom that won't fit through into place against the seat base so it needs to be removed. Just cut it off with an angle grinder as it isn't needed (or a problem).



    If you have a look at the lower plastic trim that goes over the seat rail, you'll see an outline of a rectangle. This is the piece you need to remove to fit the seat belt through and looks like it might be designed to do this from the factory if you have a 4 door. These seats are from a coupe so I can't known for sure, but it seems too convenient to be placed there for no reason. Regardless, Im going to use it anyway, so just take to it with a stanley knife to remove the plastic so you can pass the mount through. With the hole cut, just clean it up with a file or some sandpaper.



    With the hole cut you can pass the seat belt mount through into the rail, however you'll come across a problem though. The angle of the seat belt is too sharp to fit up against the rail properly.



    You need to bend the mount a little to take some of the angle out of it. A vice is handy, otherwise you can take to the back of the mount with a hammer and flatten it out a little. It doesn't need to bend far, just play it by ear.



    Next up the seat belt mount needs to be spaced a little towards the seat, (pretty much as far as you can), so I used a combination of a high tensile bolt, a nut, some washers and the original spacer to mount the seat belt to the rail.





    I still want to clean up the plastic a little and get the lines all nice and neat along with taking a little more angle out of the mount, but the end result should come out looking something like this.



    Next up is the seat belt stalk. Pretty easy task this one, the E36 seats already have a place on the seat base for the stalk.



    Again, the angle needs to be played around with as the stalk doesn't quite sit flush against the seat base.



    If you take the stalk and place it in a vice you can use a large ring spanner to give it a little tweak.



    And you should end up with something like this. There is just enough thread showing to screw the nut down all the way to the end of the bolt (I gave it a couple more turns after this pic), the E36 stalk must be slightly thinner than the E30 one.



    With the stalk mounted to the seat, it was simply a matter of bolting the seat belt up to the seat base (as shown above) and placing the seat into the car for the final time. When fitting the nuts I came across another little problem though. The slider is a little narrow for the washers, so I simply ground a little off one side to get it to fit perfectly.



    One side down and in.



    Then it is simply a matter of repeating for the other side. One suggestion though, remove the steering wheel to give you a little more space.



    People wondering how much space it leaves behind, well as I said earlier I played around with the mounting position so it may vary depending on how you mount it, but this is the space in the back of my car with the seat as far back as it goes. You can see the other stock seat in the background which is just about as far back as it goes too, so not a huge difference. I reckon there is maybe an inch in it.



    You can fit into the back ok with the vaders fitted. It's a little tight getting in and out, but there is enough space to sit comfortably behind with your feet under the seat and the recline mechanism as these are coupe seats helps give you some easy access. You can't exactly stretch your feet out, but then you couldn't really do that anyway with the standard seats either.

    I plan to clean up the shape of the plates properly when I find out exactly what the rules are in regards to getting them engineered and passed for a mod plate. This is the rough shape if the engineer says I am allowed to cut the plates, but for the time being they will stay like they are. Once it is signed off on I'll actually pass the plates through under the carpet then make a couple of small cuts so the bolts mounting the vaders in place can poke through. With the carpet back down you won't even notice them in place, will just look like a regular seat mount.



    That's basically it. Might not be the only way, but it is one way to do it without having to actually weld anything. It still utilises the original mounts on both the seats and the floor pan too, so everything essentially bolts into place. By using the original seat belt positions on the new seats along with high tensile bolts everywhere, I figure it should be just as safe as the original seats.

  30. #60
    Sensei Cobra
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    This becoming more project and less beater!

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