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Thread: Project Car: 1968 Plymouth Roadrunner build thread!

  1. #31
    Registered Abuser SHEEL's Avatar
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    You mentioned that you weren't happy with the paint?

    If that paint is acryllic you should be able to get a bit more gloss with a good cut and polish.. you might even need to web rub it first with some 2000grit wet and dry to flatten out any peel (can't tell if there is any from the pics)
    Theoretically you can buff Acrylic into a better gloss than two-pac if you know what you are doing.

    If you do it yourself do alot of research first (google is your friend) and if you choose to pay someone probably spend a bit more money and find a proper paint restoration guy as opposed to a regular car detailer.

  2. #32
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Sheel, thanks for the info mate!
    Yeah its been painted in acrylic, but its a satin sorta finish. They said it would look better given the minimal bodywork I was willing to pay for. However there are areas where the prep wasnt done properly and bits have flaked off. Also around the windows some of the filler wasnt smoothed properly and things dont look straight.
    I thought of just getting some clear coat sprayed over it to gloss it up and make it look good, but I think before I do that I would go through and fix up some of the shit prep work and spend a bit of time. Might even be worth getting a proper paint resto dude to do it properly. Should have done that in the first place, but I was expecting the whole affair to be much cheaper than it was....

  3. #33
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  4. #34
    Serenity now! VE Safari's Avatar
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    Nice thread. Chrysler Ball joints are threaded, and screw into the control arm. Lots of non-Chrysler places don't know this and try to press them in, fucking both the ball joint and UCA. This becomes a safety issue if the BJ were to pop out whilst on the move.

    /don'tmeantotellyouwhatyouprobablyalreadyknow
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  5. #35
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    how much do those seats cost and where?

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    I would have stuck with the factory seats and probably wouldn't have bolted the coil to the inner guard but everything else is win.

    Let me know if you want to sell the 383, I'm after one for the VE ute, but you can stroke them out to 496ci. Then if you want a big blower you could probably get one under a decent scoop because the 383 is a B-motor and therefore shorter than the RB-motor (raised block). I believe Dyers do a B-motor blower kit (manifolds are different b to rb because of deck height).

    Sorry if this is shit you already know, but I don't see the point in buying a 440 and stroker kit to go to 520 cubes when you can buy a stoker kit and take the engine you've got out to 496ci already.

  7. #37
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    rbman, the seats are Procar Rally seats, they are about 1200 bucks a pair. You can get them off ebay sometimes, but I got mine from a mob called Muscle Car Factory down in NSW. Let me know if you want their number. Seats seem good quality. I would have kept the originals, but it would have cost me just as much to have them re-built as to buy the new procar ones, and i'm a skinny fucker so they hold me in a bit better.

    Turbohemi, thanks for your info man! Actually I appreciate getting another opinion! I have one of the 6-pack fiberglass hoods coming for it with a big scoop built in, so it will probably clear a blower as you said. The reason I was going to go with a big crate motor is the price. I can import a 522 with alloy heads and all the gear for around 10k. I figure to get a stroker kit and all the beans for the current motor I would be coming close to that anyway. It is nice having a low deck block though. If I go with the crate donk I will definately be looking to sell the 383. I am curious though now, as doing a 496 blown stroker would be pretty sick. I would imagine I would need pretty much all new internals though and a set of alloy heads too... Would also be less of a waste of all the bits ive already bought like dizzy, ignition box, carb, manifold etc...
    Thoughts?
    Oh and P.S the coil on the fender was the idea of the dorks who painted it. I have ordered a bracket to bolt it vertically in front of the intake manifold

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    rbman, the seats are Procar Rally seats, they are about 1200 bucks a pair. You can get them off ebay sometimes, but I got mine from a mob called Muscle Car Factory down in NSW. Let me know if you want their number. Seats seem good quality. I would have kept the originals, but it would have cost me just as much to have them re-built as to buy the new procar ones, and i'm a skinny fucker so they hold me in a bit better.

    Turbohemi, thanks for your info man! Actually I appreciate getting another opinion! I have one of the 6-pack fiberglass hoods coming for it with a big scoop built in, so it will probably clear a blower as you said. The reason I was going to go with a big crate motor is the price. I can import a 522 with alloy heads and all the gear for around 10k. I figure to get a stroker kit and all the beans for the current motor I would be coming close to that anyway. It is nice having a low deck block though. If I go with the crate donk I will definately be looking to sell the 383. I am curious though now, as doing a 496 blown stroker would be pretty sick. I would imagine I would need pretty much all new internals though and a set of alloy heads too... Would also be less of a waste of all the bits ive already bought like dizzy, ignition box, carb, manifold etc...
    Thoughts?
    Oh and P.S the coil on the fender was the idea of the dorks who painted it. I have ordered a bracket to bolt it vertically in front of the intake manifold
    If you can get a 522 cuber for $10K landed then that's certianly a good deal.

    Yep, anyway you go with a stroker you'll need decent alloy heads. No point going all those cubes and choking it with cast iron heads.

    When you get the new hood, run a tape over it to measure the height from the valley to the top of the inside of the scoop, if you can't keep the blower under it then there's no point going that route in my opinion (unless you want to keep you car restricted to powercruise type events) and it would make more sense going the big stoker route. Or you could go the procharger style blower and keep it all under the boonet like this Charger I filmed at Heathcote.


  9. #39
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Dude that is an awesome charger. Sounds unreal!
    I like the blower option, could always do that later if I need more grunt. The way I look at it, engines are so cheap to get out of the states, it would effectively be cheaper to just buy the 520 crate motor all complete than to build the 383. Especially if I can sell the 383 to someone and make some cash back.
    CM Engines do a 522 cube motor with edelbrock alloy heads, 10.5:1 comp and lumpy cams, with carby and an MSD dizzy to bolt straight into my MSD 6AL. Makes 550 - 600 horsepower and would be less than 10 grand on my doorstep. I rekon thats bloody good value, and I dont have to go through the rigmarole of getting my block tested, honed etc and then built up. No substitute for big cubes I rekon.
    Still, pity to waste what i've already spent up on the 383, but I guess that makes it attractive for someone to buy? Should make decent grunt for me in the interim anyway until I can afford the new donk. Still gotta get the 727 rebuilt before I do anything drastic anyway! Any suggestions on who could do a decent job of that?

  10. #40
    ARE YOU REAAAAADY? Grunt's Avatar
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    love it and love the orange. great choice
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  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    Dude that is an awesome charger. Sounds unreal!
    I like the blower option, could always do that later if I need more grunt. The way I look at it, engines are so cheap to get out of the states, it would effectively be cheaper to just buy the 520 crate motor all complete than to build the 383. Especially if I can sell the 383 to someone and make some cash back.
    CM Engines do a 522 cube motor with edelbrock alloy heads, 10.5:1 comp and lumpy cams, with carby and an MSD dizzy to bolt straight into my MSD 6AL. Makes 550 - 600 horsepower and would be less than 10 grand on my doorstep. I rekon thats bloody good value, and I dont have to go through the rigmarole of getting my block tested, honed etc and then built up. No substitute for big cubes I rekon.
    Still, pity to waste what i've already spent up on the 383, but I guess that makes it attractive for someone to buy? Should make decent grunt for me in the interim anyway until I can afford the new donk. Still gotta get the 727 rebuilt before I do anything drastic anyway! Any suggestions on who could do a decent job of that?
    Not sure who to use up there for autos, but I agree that 550-600hp for $10K is great value when talking Mopar (more expensive than Chevy gear). You probably won't get alot for the 383 (they don't get the dollars that 440s bring) but I'd say you'd get $2k pretty easy. To get more you could probably bolt the old gear back on (if you've still got it all) and sell that separately on Mopar Market or something.

    The only reason I want a 383 over a 440 is because I want to make my VE val ute a GTS Dart replica with the 383 option. Plus the lower deck height makes the 383 an easier swap. Done the 440 swap before and everything is tight as fuck, but damn fun to drive.

  12. #42
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbohemi View Post
    The only reason I want a 383 over a 440 is because I want to make my VE val ute a GTS Dart replica with the 383 option. Plus the lower deck height makes the 383 an easier swap. Done the 440 swap before and everything is tight as fuck, but damn fun to drive.
    Yeah totally agree with you. Going to be a slow and expensive excercise to make the 383 breath fire, so I might just settle for cleaning it up with some paint and flogging it off as a nice runner. If you are looking for one I think we could probably hook something up. I will be looking to offload it in a couple of months once I order the new donk. I will be able to give you videos of it running and all that. Anyway we can talk about that outside this if you end up being keen

    VE Val with a 383 would be bloody good fun. I think the 383 is a fair bit lighter than the 440 as well, probably a bonus in your Val. Especially if you threw some alloy heads on .

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    Yeah totally agree with you. Going to be a slow and expensive excercise to make the 383 breath fire, so I might just settle for cleaning it up with some paint and flogging it off as a nice runner. If you are looking for one I think we could probably hook something up. I will be looking to offload it in a couple of months once I order the new donk. I will be able to give you videos of it running and all that. Anyway we can talk about that outside this if you end up being keen

    VE Val with a 383 would be bloody good fun. I think the 383 is a fair bit lighter than the 440 as well, probably a bonus in your Val. Especially if you threw some alloy heads on .
    Yeah, I think with alloy heads, manifold water pump and housing it would be no heavier than a small block. Let me know when you're ready to sell.

    This is kind of the look I'm going for with the ute.


  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    Makes 550 - 600 horsepower and would be less than 10 grand on my doorstep.
    Engine on doorstep? You're doing it wrong!

    522 sounds good

  15. #45
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Sweet man that will look (and sound) awesome. Love the darts, thats what I was going to look for until the Roadrunner came up. I will definately give you a yell when the engine is ready to go. Probably be around April/May? It will come with the new manifold, MSD billet dizzy (wont fit i the RB block I'm ordering), new holley DP 750, MSD leads, high flow water pump and headers etc. Pretty decent donk. Had it compression tested and it was decent, runs really nice. Only fault I can find is the cam lobes look a bit worn (had a squiz when I did the manifold). It will probably be a rebuild job sometime down the track but decent runner for now.

    Love that dart, especially with the red bumble bee stripe. Kickass.

  16. #46
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    Engine on doorstep? You're doing it wrong!

    522 sounds good
    I am thinking of building up a 10-second doorstep to take to the drags...

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    My 512 owes me a little bit over $10k. I thought I was doing well getting the stroker kit and heads etc when the exchange rate was at 80c. Would make it a bit cheaper now.

    I measured it up to go in my VF ute but with the girdle, the alloy heads and a 440 efi single plane edelbrock manifold there was no easy way it was going to fit.

    Even with the all the alloy bits they are still a bloody heavy motor.

    Going from the flow figures after the heads where cleaned up and the cam specs I am hoping for ~650hp N/A running efi and a 4 barrel throttle body.

    I had my 727 built up by TJ's in Melbourne but I am not sure if he is still trading.



    This roadrunner has me fired up to find one of my own.
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  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    Sweet man that will look (and sound) awesome. Love the darts, thats what I was going to look for until the Roadrunner came up. I will definately give you a yell when the engine is ready to go. Probably be around April/May? It will come with the new manifold, MSD billet dizzy (wont fit i the RB block I'm ordering), new holley DP 750, MSD leads, high flow water pump and headers etc. Pretty decent donk. Had it compression tested and it was decent, runs really nice. Only fault I can find is the cam lobes look a bit worn (had a squiz when I did the manifold). It will probably be a rebuild job sometime down the track but decent runner for now.

    Love that dart, especially with the red bumble bee stripe. Kickass.
    If it's a good runner you're only looking for a couple grand then I reckon you've got a buyer. Cam doesn't worry me because I plan to go a roller cam in whatever I buy.

    I love all the mopars but never had the funds to buy a US car. Had some nice aussie stuff though (blown small block charger, big block VG wagon, turbo centura, 340 powered pacer hardtop, etc). The VE ute is a my dad's which he's just given me because he's got terminal cancer. At the moment I'm going to leave it mostly stock (he doesn't want me to "hot rod" it), but down the track it's definitely getting the dart treatment. My thoughts are that I'm not hot rodding it, I'm just changing it to another factory style.

  19. #49
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    Here's a 440 I had in a VG wagon, it's tight but doable. But having done it before convinces me that for the A-bodies, the 383 low deck is the way to go.









    sorry, I'll stop spamming your thread now. Just so excited to see some mopar power.

  20. #50
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    Nice wagon turbohemi
    Ban low performance drivers not high performance cars

  21. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo510 View Post
    Nice wagon turbohemi
    Looks a fair bit different now. The big block was a mates that he bought as an unknown quantity for his 70 Cuda but as that project dragged on he got antsy about his 440 (the cuda was a 383 car) and he wanted to know if it was any good. So I suggested I buy a sleeper and we put the car together with his engine/trans. I pulled the motor down, checked it all, slotted in a new cam and reassembled it to make sure it wasn't going to lunch itself. It went pretty good with about 285hp at the tyres and used to hose WRX's with ease, which was freaking hilarious. Poor rexy owners didn't know what the fuck was going on.
    This was back in 2000 or so.

    We got to talking and my mate was interested in buying the wagon off me but didn't like how close the aircleaner was to the hood. He reckoned it was choking and he was probably right. So he bought my VH Charger off me and fitted the 440 to that and I tried a turbo blow thru hemi six in the wagon, but it just didn't have the same feel as the big block. Nowadays the wagon just has a 245 hemi six cruiser in it and it's fun to drive around like that.

    Here's the wagon with the turbo six

  22. #52
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  23. #53
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Holy snapping duckshit!!!! HAHA!! I think that redefines the term 'Sleeper' mate! That is fuckin awesome. A 440 in a valiant station wagon!!
    Man would love to see the photos of some of the faces of guys who got done over by that beast

    Back to the build thread, I got the new gearbox crossmember all painted up and ready to go last night. The one that is in it is.... strange. Doesnt bolt in right, think its from a different car... Probably be a good idea to have the right one I rekon...

    Tomorrow the plan is to fit the battery into the boot and run the new cables from the boot to my new terminal block thing in the engine bay. Then I can start testing to see if the things I have wired up are working (i.e headlights, indicators, instruments) and go from there. Also got a new 3/4" stainless braided fuel line kit to run under the car too.

    So with a bit of luck, at the end of the weekend she should be running again and ready to put the rest of the interior back in!! (once I get the re-covered back seat back from the upholsterer).
    I will upload some more pics tonight.

  24. #54
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    BTW Turbohemi, where did you get the lead separators for the 440? The ones that screw together like that?? I got some shit plastic ones, but I want some decent ones for my 8.5mm MSD leads. Also I am looking for a couple of the brackets that bolt onto the rocker cover hold down bolts to run the leads around the front of the heads... Any ideas?

  25. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    BTW Turbohemi, where did you get the lead separators for the 440? The ones that screw together like that?? I got some shit plastic ones, but I want some decent ones for my 8.5mm MSD leads. Also I am looking for a couple of the brackets that bolt onto the rocker cover hold down bolts to run the leads around the front of the heads... Any ideas?
    Geez, this is going back a while but I think they were made by Top Gun.

    They were very much like these ones.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/IGNITION-...item23137efeac

  26. #56
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Angry

    Right, so made a heap of progress today, got stuck in and fitted up a bunch of bits that arrived in the post. Will post some pics of it all, but basically:
    1. Ran new 3/8th fuel line (stainless braided stuff) and a pair of fuel filters. Looks sweet as and doesnt leak yet which I am pretty pleased about...
    2. Installed the CORRECT gearbox crossmember and trans mount so everything is where it should be.
    3. Installed battery relocation kit in the boot and ran my cables/grounds etc and wired everything up.

    The summit battery relocation kit is a bit of a heap of shit. The battery box is crap and you have to mount your hold down arms OUTSIDE the box. which means you have to then cut slots out of the lid?? What a fucking stupid setup. Even the instructions are stupid. I would like to have the box bolted down properly, so I might look into getting another box or something... Oh well at lease the cables are run and I have a breaker installed as well.

    Did a bit more of the wiring and got indicators and stuff to work!

    Anyway, now I have a problem. If anyone here knows about MSD-6AL ignitions maybe you can help me out. Everything appears to be right with the wiring, the ignition comes on, the starter turns over fine and there is 12v everywhere there should be (across the alternator and also the direct 12v feed to the MSD6al. BUT the engine turns over but the engine wont fire. It looks like the MSD is not initiating properly. When I unplug the main plug to the MSD and then plug it in again, the red light comes on and then goes off. When the engine is cranking the light stays off and doesnt show it firing...

    I put a meter across some of the wires and it looks like the 12v battery feed is fine, but the 12v from the ignition (which tells the MSD when to turn on) has a weird voltage, it drops down to around 3v when the engine is cranking.

    Anyone got any ideas as to whats going on?
    I had this issue with the old wiring and it was the reason I decided to re-do everything. When I jumped the ignition pin directly from the 12v feed the car started last time... Assume this would happen again if I tried it...

    Any help??

  27. #57
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Few photos of today:

    Old fuel line:


    New setup


    Battery in the boot:


    Some more of the dash back together:

  28. #58
    is unplugging your matrix aaron_hogan's Avatar
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  29. #59
    is unplugging your matrix aaron_hogan's Avatar
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    MSD = My Spark Disappeared
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  30. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaron_hogan View Post
    MSD = My Spark Disappeared
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    hey atleast its not pro-comp.

    hey why you no worky with msd.

    or mydizzycrappedoutagain.
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