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Thread: Project Car: 1968 Plymouth Roadrunner build thread!

  1. #751
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    H-Pipes get da bitches mate. Everyone knows that.
    I had convo pro's on it originally, but I decided I didnt like them anymore so I flogged them off and shoved some random steelies on for now. I am contemplating either putting black street pro's on (17" probably) or else going the tried and tested torque thrust route. Probably a 17x10 rear and a 17x6 or 17x8 front?

  2. #752
    Registered User piss98's Avatar
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    Nah Torque Thrusts are too common I reckon, leave em to the Mustang and Camaro crowd.

    Tough drag style wheels as mentioned or something "pro tourer" looking maybe?

    I like these as they fit the "pro tourer" look of something that's more than just a cool old jigger but has some performance. Not sure if they'd suit on such a big car or look to modern and racey? But I like em!

    Last edited by piss98; 09-03-18 at 10:08 AM.
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  3. #753
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    Yep, above choice is spot on. Looks Hallibrand influenced.

    Torque thrusts are like the Seppo version of Simmons FRs, they're farking everywhere.

    Would also look pretty good with these: https://www.weldwheels.com/product/s71/
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Italian 510

  4. #754
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Point taken. Piss98 wtf are those called?? I rekon they would loom good in 17s.
    The weld s71s are fucking tits. That was actually another wheel I was considering...
    I also thought of running black steel circle track wheels too... be kinda cool.

  5. #755
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by piss98 View Post
    Thong slapping H pipe goodness.

    Looking good mate, those wheels and tyres will be fine for skid testing first.
    What? You'd get thong slap without the H pipe like a dirty old 308.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimi View Post
    80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
    Quote Originally Posted by schnitzelburger View Post
    My entire working career pretty much consists of suckin dick and takin names.

    Sometimes im too busy to take names.

  6. #756
    Registered User piss98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    Point taken. Piss98 wtf are those called?? I rekon they would loom good in 17s.
    The weld s71s are fucking tits. That was actually another wheel I was considering...
    I also thought of running black steel circle track wheels too... be kinda cool.
    They're US Mags Rambler U111 - https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...6152/overview/

    Quote Originally Posted by Sketchy View Post
    What? You'd get thong slap without the H pipe like a dirty old 308.
    That's what I mean, H pipe = thong slap. Mine had an H pipe when it came from the US, the change in sound when Scott made me an X pipe was bigger than I expected (although on a pissy little 8 like mine it sounds more like an inline 6 at high revs but still plenty of womp-womp at normal speeds.)
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  7. #757
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Yo lads! I've been pretty fucking slack with updating this thread... however there has been progress!!! Decided to stop being a tired cunt and get this on the road. I really need a v8 in my life again, so the push is on to try and get this running and on a dyno before xmas.
    Anyway, so what's been happening I hear you ask??

    As with all engine conversions - all the fiddly fuckaround bits are causing the most expense and frustration. I've been ordering a lot of bits, like gaskets and aeroflow fittings (urg!).
    So engine was in, and I just sat the intake manifold in place (need to get a wiring loom in there before I get carried away):
    First issue that presented was that the fucking alternator wont fit. Didnt see any info on this on the net, so it caught me by suprise.

    The edge of the frame rail has a bit of an overlap on it that hangs out:


    So quick easy option - chop the overhang off with a grinder and then weld the seam up:


    While I was at it, I had to put in a remote oil filter. The factory setup has the filter down next to the alternator, which fouls on the k-frame on the roadrunner. Fortunately, Mah Mopar has two ports above the filter that are blanked off with plugs, so you can run a remote setup if you want. I got a blanking plate from TTI for the filter itself and then stuck in an earls remote filter kit. It's plumbed up with 8an hose, which I am hoping will be plenty. There was some heated discussion on the net about what is sufficient, but I couldnt really fit anything bigger as the ports on the block are really close together.


    Anyway so here's how we look now. I have installed a new fuel pressure regulator as well, as obviously the old setup was carb. The in-tank pump is an aeromotive stealth, so it can provide the pressure I need already. I just went a bypass style efi regulator, which was a piece of piss. Still have to tidy up the return line though!



    The factory throttle bodies are drive by wire, which is a pain in the ring. I went with a BBK cable setup instead that bolts straight up to the manifold. I considered making an adaptor and running an LS throttle body, but fuck that.


    Next issue now is trying to make a cable bracket for it. BBK dont seem to sell anything to suit (that I can see...) so ill probably have to weld something up. Should be a royal pain in the ass.


    Other than that I had some new doorcards made, because the fake woodgrain vinyl ones were bloody horrendous. New ones look nice!



    So thats about it for now. I pretty much have everything to get it fully plumbed up, so its time to sort out the engine management!
    Still not sure which way to go. Options are:
    - Haltech Elite 2500, then get some poor bastard to make a custom loom to hook it all up. About $2500 for the haltech, then probably $1200+ for someone to make the loom and fit it all up? No idea really.... It's not something I want to try and do myself...

    - Holley Dominator efi - comes with plug in loom and a base tune to get it running, pretty much plug and play. Going to be about $3800 for all the shit I need from the USA, but I wont have to fork out loads of coin for auto elec work.

    - Megasquirt - they make a plug in box and loom, but apparently the setup is a bit limited with the VVT on these engines.... Setup is cheap though - be under $2000 for the box and loom.

    - Mopar crate hemi engine management - about as much as the holley and a pain in the ass so not going that way.


    Decisions decisions!!

  8. #758
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    Thatís a prick about the alternator! Iíve never even heard of that with the A-body.

    BBK throttle body looks good, Iíll be making the same decision regarding the cable bracket soon.

    Iím going Haltech 2500 with my 6.1 - so in a couple of months there will be a resident auto-elec whoís just recently done a custom loom for one if heís keen!

    Good to see progress!

  9. #759
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Purple View Post
    Thatís a prick about the alternator! Iíve never even heard of that with the A-body.

    BBK throttle body looks good, Iíll be making the same decision regarding the cable bracket soon.

    Iím going Haltech 2500 with my 6.1 - so in a couple of months there will be a resident auto-elec whoís just recently done a custom loom for one if heís keen!

    Good to see progress!
    Very interesting!! If you have someone lined up to do yours I would be interested to see how it goes. Could definately be a goer if he wants to do my 6.4 as well! The looms will be literally identical. Maybe he can just make 2? We should talk.....

  10. #760
    Registered User piss98's Avatar
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    About time there was some progress! Git er done! Slowly learning from experience here, spend the money on the better ECU so you don't spent it twice.

    PS - can not un-see mismatched blue/red and black fittings.
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  11. #761
    arboreal bukkake briney's Avatar
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    looks like some good progress. with the throttle cable, it looks like motorbike clutch cable. the bike shop will have a variety of solder on ends to suit. I'm not sure what's on the pedal end, but a suitable barrel end for the throttle body will likely be easy. probably silver solder will be strongest, but I've done a few clutch cables with soft solder and minimal dramas.
    Quote Originally Posted by Skompa View Post
    The throttle linkages jammed on the CDs in my old Triumph 2000 and stuck it at WOT.

    I didn't realise for about 15 mins as it never broke the speed limit.

  12. #762
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by piss98 View Post
    About time there was some progress! Git er done! Slowly learning from experience here, spend the money on the better ECU so you don't spent it twice.

    PS - can not un-see mismatched blue/red and black fittings.
    Yeah that bit kinda does my OCD over as well :P It's just an interim thing though, ill stick some black ones on when i'm feeling motivated. Buying fucking aeroflow fittings locally is like passing a kidney stone though. Might be time for a visit to summitracing.com again....

    Quote Originally Posted by briney View Post
    looks like some good progress. with the throttle cable, it looks like motorbike clutch cable. the bike shop will have a variety of solder on ends to suit. I'm not sure what's on the pedal end, but a suitable barrel end for the throttle body will likely be easy. probably silver solder will be strongest, but I've done a few clutch cables with soft solder and minimal dramas.
    That bit is easy man, I just bought a little cable end clevis thingy off ebay. Ill grab a photo when I get a sec. Wait heres the ebay link:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-14-x-...72.m2749.l2649

    The pedal end is sweet too as I already was running the same style Lokar cable with the big block. The fiddly / gay / shit part is trying to make a bracket that can hold the cable on the throttle body if you catch my meaning. Have to bust out ye olde' welder.

  13. #763
    arboreal bukkake briney's Avatar
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    oh righto. those ends look heaps easier. hopefully the bracket doesn't give you too much static. was it just the extra wiring/setup hassles which turned you away from dbw?
    Quote Originally Posted by Skompa View Post
    The throttle linkages jammed on the CDs in my old Triumph 2000 and stuck it at WOT.

    I didn't realise for about 15 mins as it never broke the speed limit.

  14. #764
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    Cool progress.

    Thought about a EFI quad tb on a single or dual plane manifold?

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

  15. #765
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by briney View Post
    oh righto. those ends look heaps easier. hopefully the bracket doesn't give you too much static. was it just the extra wiring/setup hassles which turned you away from dbw?
    To be honest it was less about the wiring issues and more about the delay / lack of response of the dwb setup.



    Quote Originally Posted by Dogsballs View Post
    Cool progress.

    Thought about a EFI quad tb on a single or dual plane manifold?

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    That is exactly the eventual plan. Run a setup like that with a circular aircleaner so it looks vaguely oldschool again. There are some good options for aftermarket manifolds for these motors now too. Only thing that stops me at the moment is just the extra expense. By the time I get the manifold, tb and a set of fuel rails ill be in the hole around 2k??

  16. #766
    are hairy Dogsballs's Avatar
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    There is no delay in fwb and if there is can be tuned out

    It will look cool though. Its only money
    Quote Originally Posted by 50RTD View Post
    Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

  17. #767
    Registered User piss98's Avatar
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    Do it. Click image for larger version. 

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  18. #768
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    I thought the idea of going to a modern hemi was driveability and proper fuel injection?

    If you're going to pour fuel into it with a bucket you might as well go all the way - Edelbrock do a dual quad intake for these now:



    Two quad EFI TBs. Cost about twice as much as a proper ECU, use twice as much fuel and probably make less power. Though agree it would be cool!

  19. #769
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    You've done a very stealth job hiding the twin turbo's

  20. #770
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Nein, you are missing the point here. The aim is to maintain multi point fuel injection, just using a single plane style manifold and a quad throttle body. So the same setup as the current intake but with the throttle body on top with a circular aircleaner for more stealths and oldschoolness.

  21. #771
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    I.e not throttle body injection as that is shit and depletes the purpose of having a fancy haltech.

  22. #772
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richzx View Post
    You've done a very stealth job hiding the twin turbo's
    Soon.... gonna get it running first, then decide on blower vs turbos.... blower is so easy though.

  23. #773
    arboreal bukkake briney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    To be honest it was less about the wiring issues and more about the delay / lack of response of the dwb setup.
    isn't that able to be tuned out with your fancy computer? dbw can do idle and even cruise control if you're keen.
    Quote Originally Posted by Skompa View Post
    The throttle linkages jammed on the CDs in my old Triumph 2000 and stuck it at WOT.

    I didn't realise for about 15 mins as it never broke the speed limit.

  24. #774
    Registered User piss98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    I.e not throttle body injection as that is shit and depletes the purpose of having a fancy haltech.
    Oi!! Although my Haltech isnít the fanciest they make.
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  25. #775
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by briney View Post
    isn't that able to be tuned out with your fancy computer? dbw can do idle and even cruise control if you're keen.
    Good points. I spose I sacrificed all that so I could keep my stock throttle pedal setup. Oh well, that might be an ulgrade for later. Cruise would be a plus...

  26. #776
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by piss98 View Post
    Oi!! Although my Haltech isnít the fanciest they make.
    Lol! I should re-phrase...
    Multi-point efi > throttle body injection > carb
    *for this particular application and not a general rule. Please see your engine builder to discuss what is best for your application*

  27. #777
    Registered User piss98's Avatar
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    Lol nope too late youíre a cunt. Mine is to keep the look and doesnít need max power just be better than a carb on a 283.....letís face it thatís not a big challenge!
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  28. #778
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Made some good progress on this nugget over the weekend!! Got a couple of fiddly jobs out of the way.

    Firstly, installed the new seals into the intake manifold. I got degreaser on the old ones, so they swelled up like all fuck and popped out. New ones were cheap. And blue, which is drift spec?



    Next, started to work on the throttle cable bracket that I was bitching about last week. Came up with a design concept that mounted off 2 bolts - one on the throttle body and one on the intake itself. I made it up out of some steel flat bar. I wouldn't call it a work of fine fucking art, but it is very strong and works. Later I might make something more fancy looking out of stainless once my tig welding improves...




    Ok next order of business, start on the pipes for the radiator. Theory here is that there is nothing off the shelf that will fit my engine and rad combo, and I dont wan't to have to cut up random hoses every time I want to replace them. So decided to make the pipes out of stainless with just a straight coupling on each end. I bought a box of 1.5" and 1.75" stainless mandrel bends (aeroflow ones so of course they were more expensive than fucking gold), and some straight tube. I have been learning myself (heeyuk!) to tig with this welder I pinched from my dad's mate. So far it is going pretty well. It's a steep learning curve trying to tig weld small diameter pipe that is only like 1.5mm thick.... but hey! no time to fuck about.

    Start bit - 90deg and a bit of straight:


    Then I had to make up a little pie-cut bit to join up these two bits. I watched a good vid on the youtubes about how to use a bit of masking tape to join the two pipes together, then cut the wedge out of the middle, stick it on a bit of pipe as a template and cut out your 'pie' thingy. So I fuckin did that and it worked good.



    I then welded the rest of it up. The beads weren't horrible, but there was a couple of bits around the pie where I had some holes to bridge, so I decided to grind it all smooth. I will get a smoother belt for the linisher and make it look nice before I use it.



    Pretty happy with that as a first attempt at thin wall, small diameter stainless pipe. Absolutely loving the tig welder too, so clean and so much control. Can't wait to give it a crack on something bigger.

    I made a start on the lower pipe as well, which I will finish over the next weekend. So, we are looking fucking good!

    I also got the trans cooler AN hoses hooked up to the 727 and filled the trans with fluid. Then I bought some oil. This thing requires 0w40 oil, of which there was only Castrol shit available at like $83 for 5L..... nearly shit myself. So $160 worth of oil later and the engine is all filled up. The plan now is to fire up the starter motor in bursts with the plugs out until the oil pump primes and I get pressure in the system.

    Next steps:
    Finish plumbing cooling system and fill that bitch up
    Finish hooking up the return side of the fuel system - easy job, just gotta throw the beast on the hoist and fuck about. I also bought black -8 fittings for the feed side so I will replace the blue-red ones (make piss98 happy)
    Do up the rest of the bolts and hangers for the exhaust system when its up on the hoist
    Order the new wheels this week (stay tuned!)
    Stick a seat back in it so Tim can drop skids once the haltech is hooked up

    Then it will be time to trailer this cunt to the sunny coast for auto elec hocus pocus.
    Hopefully at this rate we will be running again before xmas..... yeeeeeew!

  29. #779
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    Top progress! Glad Tim was keen to do it for you, it'll give him practice for mine by the sounds of it.

    Those plastic manifolds on the 6.4 aren't particularly pretty are they? I was half considering one of the new Edelbrock Victor II intakes but they look like they add too much height, and promise all of a 25hp gain. Plus that's American hp, which rounds off to 0.

    Speedmaster do a semi affordable ITB setup for these now!

    https://speedmaster79.com/chrysler-h...lete-polished/


  30. #780
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Mr Purple, that intake is fucking gorgeous. Jesus. If I decide to stick NA (which is possible given the cam and comp I have used) then that would have to be a winner. Imagine the sound!

    Alternatively I am looking at the OCP dual plane setup as being a good option. The Ritter and drag pack single planes are good but seem to be mainly drag engine specific, so make peak power high in the rpm range. Dual plane would be better for the street, and still fits under my 6-pack hood ._.
    http://ocperformanceparts.com/the_1s...emi_dual_plane

    Wonder how it would go with OCP dual plane, with a big fuckoff throttle body and a single turbo......

    And thank you heaps for the heads up about Tim! Was chatting with him over the weekend and am feeling very confident he is the man for the job. Has given me a new kick in the arse to get it ready for him now too!

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