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Thread: 13/04/1300 Mazda 626 Turbo

  1. #91
    Ease Up Turbo Commotion's Avatar
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    Hey you may actually finish a car!! I cant wait to see what you can squeeze out of it after all the hard work.

  2. #92
    . crack's Avatar
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    haha. a car is only ever really finished when it is crashed, burned, cut up into little pieces, etc. though.



    ok, with mech & elec mods (i.e. comfort zone) wrapping up a week or two ago it is time to stop procrastinating and move onto the tuning and drag racing... where experience starts running thin.

    first up - prepping the car for first start

    night 1 was spent adding fluids and checking for leaks. i didn't get far before the leaks began.
    firstly, fuel was added to the fuel tank and started leaking out the drain valve. no worries, i've got another small bore ball valve floating around somewhere.
    next was coolant, which consists of a 0% solution to 100% water mix for the purposes of this challenge.
    straight into the radiator and out of the water pump it went. off with the timing belt covers to inspect where it was leaking from. the leak looked like it was originating from the seal between pump housing & block, so off with the crank pulley, accessory belts, timing cover, timing gear and water pump. water pump housing and its steel gasket checked out ok. a light smear of RTV silicone on either side of the steel gasket and it was good to go again. reinstalled everything and called it a night.

    night 2 (tonight) was a continuation of night 1 activities, starting with coolant addition. fuck, the leak hasn't gone away. again the front of the engine was stripped off to get a visual on the leak. this time i spent a little more time tracing the leak and it traced back to a 'weep port' on the pump housing. silly me. funny thing happened though, the leak stopped after a while. ah well, if it reappears at a later date a new water pump is cheap from eBay.
    next i replaced a few spring hose clamps with worm gear hose clamps to stop a few more coolant leaks.
    after that was engine oil - all good.
    then gearbox oil - no dice. there was a small leak in the passenger gearbox driveshaft seal. that shaft had to come in and out a few times, even though i was trying to take care i must have damaged it slightly. will get a new seal and replace the leaking one on the weekend.
    also, will need to do brakes and clutch on the weekend with the help of a mate.

    with all fluids 'out of the way', it was time to turn my attention to wiring. the car has been completely rewired so all circuits need testing. turned the shed lights off and tested all car exterior lighting - all good. i also heard the fuel pump prime on ignition on so i knew the ecu was working to some extent. excellent. all that really is left to test now are EFI sensors (yes, that's how little wiring is in the car).
    to test EFI sensors requires a laptop connection to the ECU. luckly Haltech have a written and a video guide on the topic, which helped a computer dunce like me immensely. a connection was established pretty much first go by following the steps in the guide. ecu tune was extracted to harddrive and whilst the laptop was still connected to the ecu i checked sensor values like ECT & IAT - all good.
    time to call it a night.

    next step - learning Haltech software basics, then creating a 'tune' file with basic engine parameters, fuel and spark curves, then loading it into the ecu and attempting first start.

    really impressed with the old Haltech E6K so far. most of the stuff written about it on the net is negative, and nearly all of that negativity is from ignorance / operator idiocy. there are good guides out there in addition to a detailed user manual and pretty easy to navigate software. looking forward to tuning with it.

  3. #93
    . crack's Avatar
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    Classic misinformation:

    "You would have an easier time tuning a carburetor. E6K, No wideband support, no datalogging, no idle control, no boost control, you have to tune the fuel map by looking at the RPM rows. meaning you can only look at 1000rpm. then you need to go back through the menus to get to the 1500. then another menu to get to 2000. Very time consuming and very easy to make mistakes without noticing. Poor injector staging. Stay away.

    EB Turbo"

    All of this is false!

  4. #94
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    My 510 still runs a dirty old E6K. They work fine. Be aware that blending and doing big 'whole map' changes will take a little time.

  5. #95
    Malakia Industries
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    Super tidy job once again. What do you do for work? I seem to see your VS ute all the time around West End.

  6. #96
    . crack's Avatar
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    I work for an engineering mob in West End. You work in West End too?

  7. #97
    . crack's Avatar
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    Spent most of the day reading the Haltech E6K manual, except for a few not applicable areas. All seems to make sense. Was entering values into the tune file as I was going through the manual.

    Once I was satisfied that the base tune file was good enough I attempted a first start but I couldn't get an RPM signal (which Im guessing is an error with the triggering). Tomorrrow's problem. Could really do with an oscilloscope right about now.

    Oh, the leaking passenger gearbox driveshaft seal was because the driveshaft was not fully engaged. Easy fix and lesson learnt.

    Here's what the wiring job ended up looking like. I decided not to wrap it in elec tape but it would look so much neater if I did. Function before form though for this build.




  8. #98
    *Italian Stallion* milo's Avatar
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    Love it.... Looking great.... Oh, and another Fan of the E6K..... Had one in my VR4 back in the day.... Great ECU.... In its time...
    1969 Datsun 1000 Sedan
    1989 1.6l Daihatsu Charade

    Life For me Has it's UP'S and DOWN'S........ I fix ELEVATORS

  9. #99
    Malakia Industries
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    Quote Originally Posted by bumcrack View Post
    I work for an engineering mob in West End. You work in West End too?
    Yeah I see you drive past my workshop most mornings at 630ish. /stalker

  10. #100
    . crack's Avatar
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    well i had all weekend to get a first start out of the car but it was to no avail. the Haltech would not accept the factory reluctor sensor trigger and home signals (indicated by 0rpm on the runtime parameters page).

    upon googling this issue i found many others experience it and a common fix is a $200 Haltech RA10 stand-alone analogue to digital signal converter. this would change the factory reluctor signals into square wave signals similar to a Hall effect sensor, which is much easier for the ecu to process.

    another option would be to replace reluctor sensors with hall effect sensors but i think that would be too much effort.

    not having $200 to spare for the Haltech black box i've decided to have a go at making something similar for a fraction of the cost. i found a circuit schematic and hardware list for a "VR conditioner" (variable reluctor analogue to digital signal converter) on a Megasquirt ecu site. the circuit is based around a LM1815 integrated circuit.

    i need to do a bit more reading about it to see if it is the right thing for my application. if so, i'll order the bits and solder it together. the LM1815 needs to be 'calibrated' with various resistors and capacitors for current limiting, filtering, mode selection, etc. i'm a little worried about that because i have no electronics background.

    will let you guys know how i go. i REALLY want to drive this beast now that it is all but finished.
    Last edited by crack; 01-11-12 at 04:09 PM.

  11. #101
    . crack's Avatar
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    i didn't want to introduce you all to the new and improved Burgess (the barge arse) until after her maiden run down the quarter but alas, i'm bored as fuck waiting for some electronic parts to make a small circuit to finish it off. here she is:

    Two soarer intercoolers become one


    Factory turbo manifold with home made series 5 rx7 turbine inlet flange adapter welded on


    Adapter making progress pic. I actually remade the turbine inlet flange with a new towbar steel one that has threaded in studs instead of welded in studs (welded in studs were because I accidently overdrilled the holes).


    Adapter making progress pic.


    Adapter making progress pic.


    New engine bay mounted fuel tank. I have a fucken massive sheet of 2.5mm Al plate that I took the materials from. The thicker Al plate flanges were actually donated by a fellow 13s for $1300 competitor!


    Picked up a couple old rusty 3” lancer exhausts for $40. This is what I managed to salvage out of them. Enough to make a full 3” system yeah baby.


    Factory mani pre modding


    Factory mani pre modding


    New hollow dash


    This shit removed from the driver’s seat


    Most of this shit removed from the driver’s seat. Basically made a new frame but sorry I don’t have any pics of it.


    Finally found a use for some Al sheet I’ve had lying around for a few years. It was originally purchased for a door card. Only saved about 4.5kg from this mod I think.


    All of this shit gone from the driver’s seat. Think I saved maybe 15kg all up on the driver’s seat mods.


    Wheel well delete


    Wheel well delete


    Wheel well delete


    Hollow dash


    Fake heater controls


    Dash blanking panels. Got a black acrylic off cut for free from a plastic fabricator down the road FTW.


    Gearstick rubber bushing deleted


    Rear crossmember lightened.


    Rear crossmember lightened.


    New lightweight steering wheel mount


    Halved the weight of these things with some ghetto fab.


    Lightened front doors. Two window settings – all the way up or half way down.


    Miscellaneous brackets


    Door cards now sporting glued on components to look half normal.


    Bonnet latch support piece.


    Windscreen wipe mechanism delete. Windscreen wipers kept to look road legal and shit.


    Deleted windscreen wipe mechanism.


    Shit removed from the side mirrors


    Hooks to hang the front doorcards from (similar to the factory plastic ones that had deteriorated)


    Sunroof mechanism delete. Prob 15kg saved here.


    Dump pipe. Custom oil line (straightened out and rebent factory one). Custom turbo coolant lines (recycled from 1jz piping I had laying around).


    New intercooler that consists of two old Soarer intercoolers welded together. Total cost $10!!! Ugly as sun but it will flow a shitload.


    Oil drain out recycled from 1jz piping I had laying around.


    Straightened out and rebent turbo oil feed line


    Straightened out and rebent turbo oil feed line

    Turbo brace. No shortcuts in this 13s for $1300 build thank you very much.


    Turbo brace.


    Turbo brace.


    ‘New’ exhaust. Will be loud but free flowing enough not to warrant removing it at the track.


    ‘New’ exhaust.


    Intercooler piping. Made from some 2.5” exhaust tube I had to buy new from the exhaust shop. $40 worth.


    Where the turbo sits in the engine bay. My first manifold attempt (made out of the car) clashed with the radiator. Had to remake a shitload – remade manifold adapter piece, dump pipe cut up and rewelded, remade turbo brace, turbo oil line rebent, etc.


    New air filter position


    Say ‘cheese’ Mr Engine Bay. Everything now painted black and looking much better.


    More of the same.


    New BOV flange welded flush into the intercooler plumbing.


    Lobster backed goodness.


    New turbo inlet pipe. Had to get creative here to get from 4” to 2.5”. Had a 4” pod filter laying around for about 5yrs. I needed it for a short while after I had a K&N filter failure when I first put a turbo on my ute ages ago.


    Turbo intake pipe.


    Turbo intake pipe.


    3” exhaust.


    Battery relocation and new fuel tank.


    More of the same.


    Dump pipe.


    Frankencooler.


    Frankencooler.


    Frankencooler.


    Radiused inlets into intercooler end tanks. Every kW counts brah.


    Frankencooler.


    Frankencooler.


    Fuel tank drain.


    Rear spring lockout system.


    Rear spring lockout system.


    Rear spring lockout system.


    Rear spring lockout system.


    Rear spring lockout system.


    Lightened rear crossmember


    Rear spring lockout system.


    Rear spring lockout system.


    Fab ready for painting
    Last edited by crack; 25-10-12 at 11:02 PM.

  12. #102
    Registered User ls400x's Avatar
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    You are out of control. In a good way

  13. #103
    Registered User ls400x's Avatar
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    Rough idea on weight removed?

  14. #104
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    ^ what he said...I'm blown away at the fab work
    now with extra gearbox'y goodness

  15. #105
    . crack's Avatar
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    shree hungee once at the track with the seats and spare tyre out hopefully. i would love to weight it to confirm. don't forget it started out over 1300kg so it's still no light weight.

  16. #106
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    Fuck me!
    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .


  17. #107
    Registered User E-Z's Avatar
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    awesome work man

  18. #108
    Registered User [TUFFVQ]'s Avatar
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    Excellent work. Keep it up!

  19. #109
    Ease Up Turbo Commotion's Avatar
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    Just roll up onto the scales at stapylton tip. record the weight on the meter and then tell the attendant sorry i just wanted to know how much the car weighed.

  20. #110
    Registered User Fraud's Avatar
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    thats some damn impressive work..
    Quote Originally Posted by myshortyboomba View Post
    I've had many gauges in cars. I always found the conrods react faster than a gauge.

    you can always hear them when they break and they stop the engine immediately so you can't do any more damage.

  21. #111
    Registered User adamRSLC's Avatar
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    A++++ , will read again

    acads.
    Sandown 1.23.31
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    Bathurst 2.47.49

  22. #112
    Hungry Hungry Hippo Tripper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Commotion View Post
    Just roll up onto the scales at stapylton tip. record the weight on the meter and then tell the attendant sorry i just wanted to know how much the car weighed.
    done that before at the local tip, gave the guy a 6 pack got told i could come any time i wanted
    you cant spell advertisements without semen between the tits

  23. #113
    Registered User E-Z's Avatar
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    they have to let you for free anyway. you could be getting tare weight for bringing a load to the tip

  24. #114
    Sidetracked BMWTurbo's Avatar
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    Impressive work and a lot of thought... fumbs up

  25. #115
    arboreal bukkake briney's Avatar
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    with your sensor interface dramas, had you considered something like a camira module ? they convert a sine wave into a 5v dc square wave signal. there would be others too i'm sure. your local self serve wrecker might even donate a couple for you.
    Quote Originally Posted by Skompa View Post
    The throttle linkages jammed on the CDs in my old Triumph 2000 and stuck it at WOT.

    I didn't realise for about 15 mins as it never broke the speed limit.

  26. #116
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    You're a lunatic. Come and work on my car for a week or two please!

  27. #117
    . crack's Avatar
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    I'm glad you guys like it!

    Looks like I'll be taking it to the tip once it is up and running.

    briney, I'm pissed I missed that module when I was Googling a solution to my trigger issues. That looks like the thing i'm after.

    The Camira ignition module converts a reluctor signal from a 4 tooth trigger wheel. The module might have issues with the 626's reluctor signal from a 24 tooth trigger wheel (i.e. trying to convert a signal that is 6 times as frequent). Pulling apart the 626 dizzy to mod the 24 tooth wheel to a 4 tooth wheel is easier than it sounds as the dizzy is proving hard to pull apart.

    Another issue is if I wasn't able to pull the dizzy apart to grind off 5 out of every 6 teeth then I'd need to run a home signal reluctor and this would require a second Camira ignition module. Budget would become an issue. I could 'borrow' the modules but that wouldn't be in the spirit of the comp.



    I'll hold out for a week and give my $10 reluctor conditioner circuit a go (the main ICs are on their way over from the UK). Below is the schematic and PCB layout I've drawn up. It is based on the LM1815 IC and resistor and capacitor values I've taken from Megasquirt recommendations. (P.S. I'll make the 5V and ground traces much wider before I make the PCB.)



  28. #118
    Joel WildZero's Avatar
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    If the N13 Delco ignition module would suit I'm pretty sure I have one or two spare, threw out the camira stuff I had though unfortunatley

    Sent from my SGH-I927 using Tapatalk 2

  29. #119
    . crack's Avatar
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    eBay says they suit.

    Item Name:
    BOSCH IGNITION MODULE ASTRA CAMIRA PULSAR N13

    Application:
    HOLDEN ASTRA LD ENGINE CODE 16LF, 7/87-7/89 4 CYL 1.6L
    HOLDEN ASTRA LD ENGINE CODE 18LF, 7/87-7/89 4 CYL 1.8L
    HOLDEN CAMIRA JD ENGINE CODE 18JC, 2/86-3/87 4 CYL 1.8L
    HOLDEN CAMIRA JE ENGINE CODE 20JD, 4/87-9/89 4 CYL 2.0L
    DAEWOO 1.5I ENGINE CODE G15MF, 8/94-10/95 4 CYL 1.5L
    DAEWOO CIELO ENGINE CODE G15MF, 8/94-8/97 4 CYL 1.5L
    DAEWOO CIELO ENGINE CODE A15MF, 8/94-8/97 4 CYL 1.5L
    DAEWOO ESPERO ENGINE CODE C20LE, 9/93-10/99 4 CYL 2.0L
    NISSAN PULSAR N13 ENGINE CODE 16LF, 8/87-10/92 4 CYL 1.6L
    NISSAN PULSAR N13 ENGINE CODE 18LE, 8/87-10/92 4 CYL 1.8L

    I might try and get one from the wreckers tomorrow. If that falls through I'll hit you up. Thanks

  30. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by bumcrack View Post
    eBay says they suit.

    Item Name:
    BOSCH IGNITION MODULE ASTRA CAMIRA PULSAR N13

    Application:
    HOLDEN ASTRA LD ENGINE CODE 16LF, 7/87-7/89 4 CYL 1.6L
    HOLDEN ASTRA LD ENGINE CODE 18LF, 7/87-7/89 4 CYL 1.8L
    HOLDEN CAMIRA JD ENGINE CODE 18JC, 2/86-3/87 4 CYL 1.8L
    HOLDEN CAMIRA JE ENGINE CODE 20JD, 4/87-9/89 4 CYL 2.0L
    DAEWOO 1.5I ENGINE CODE G15MF, 8/94-10/95 4 CYL 1.5L
    DAEWOO CIELO ENGINE CODE G15MF, 8/94-8/97 4 CYL 1.5L
    DAEWOO CIELO ENGINE CODE A15MF, 8/94-8/97 4 CYL 1.5L
    DAEWOO ESPERO ENGINE CODE C20LE, 9/93-10/99 4 CYL 2.0L
    NISSAN PULSAR N13 ENGINE CODE 16LF, 8/87-10/92 4 CYL 1.6L
    NISSAN PULSAR N13 ENGINE CODE 18LE, 8/87-10/92 4 CYL 1.8L

    I might try and get one from the wreckers tomorrow. If that falls through I'll hit you up. Thanks
    I've got one you can try and use/replace/return. Located in Lutwyche.

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