Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 61 to 90 of 96

Thread: AW11 Thread

  1. #61
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    ACT 2607
    Posts
    1,562
    can I give you 5k once it is done?

  2. #62
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    106
    Had a couple of AW11's - I always liked the idea of a smallport 4age with an SC14 fitted and keeping the CR up, W2A intercooler and bigger pulley plus an LSD equipped C56. E51's are heavy bitches and the C56 has proven to handle mild abuse.

    Wouldn't make as much power as a turbo setup but I reckon would be a lot of fun and more in keeping with the spirit of AW11.

    Likewise 3sge swaps are pretty straightforward from all accounts. Gen 3 3sge with some cams would be pretty lively in a AW11
    Last edited by Mooro; 28-09-17 at 12:52 PM.

  3. #63
    . crack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    BNE
    Posts
    2,388
    Quote Originally Posted by Mooro View Post
    Had a couple of AW11's - I always liked the idea of a smallport 4age with an SC14 fitted and keeping the CR up, W2A intercooler and bigger pulley plus an LSD equipped C56. E51's are heavy bitches and the C56 has proven to handle mild abuse.

    Wouldn't make as much power as a turbo setup but I reckon would be a lot of fun and more in keeping with the spirit of AW11.
    I love the sound of that. There is a guy on an american MR2 forum with a 20v, SC14 and W2A that ran a 12.5s 1/4 and reckons there is a 11 in it. The 20v was built because he bent the OEM stuff but he has some Youtube vids with the stock bottom end and 14psi and the thing hauls arse.

  4. #64
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,282
    Some very good points raised here, cheers!

    I think I was overspeccing it, I tend to do that because my last build was a 90hp Mini that broke everything.

    The C56 thought seems to be a good one, it looks like it fits with a mild modification to the selector shaft only, don't need different mounts and will probably handle 200-250hp no problems. Plus they're plentiful and on gumtree starting from $200!

    I thought the late AW11 and 4AGZE blocks were all 7-rib and identical?

    The supercharger thought crossed my mind, as did the 3S-GTE and 2ZZ conversions. My worry with the Supercharger would be the low down torque on the C series, plus the turbo is probably a lot simpler these days.

    How about:
    - C56 with Quaife.
    - Rebuilt standard block with decent rods and pistons, possibly saving a bit by going the 8.9:1 GZE option.
    - Smallish turbo so no exploded gearbox and aim for 200-250hp on e-flex with a safe tune.

    That'd probably be about half the price of my original plan and fulfill the performance requirement (i.e. driving past P-platers on Old Cleveland Road going tchu-tchu-tchu in a car a decade older than them).

    Thoughts on cam and top end mods? Is there a modern equivalent to the old WRX turbo?

    Cheers, thanks for the suggestions!

  5. #65
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    106
    would cam and top end mods really be necessary for 200-250hp?

  6. #66
    Registered User clutch-monkey's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    4,293
    I like the revised plan, should be enough for the little wedge!
    I need to get one of these sooner or later.

  7. #67
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,282
    Quote Originally Posted by Mooro View Post
    would cam and top end mods really be necessary for 200-250hp?
    See, that's why I come here. Turns out, no! I'm still on Mini terms, where I think every 10hp costs $5k.

    More money saved. There is a cheap E58 out at Calamvale, but it looks like they need substantial modification for the AW11 and I'm sort of sold on the C56 now.

  8. #68
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    106
    I can't put my finger on it but they are probably the most enjoyable car I have owned yet probably the slowest. More enjoyable than a heavily modified, quad throttle bodied MX5.

    I would jump right back into another one if I didn't need something capable of carting two kids around. I reckon they have probably bottomed out in price as well and nice example will start appreciating. There is something a little bit special about them.

  9. #69
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,783
    man you are well and truly overthinking. my 9A cost 10k!!

    for 200hp you can throw a td04 on a log manifold on the std engine, run it on e85 for safety with a decent ecu (it would make 200 even on 98, but for the sake of the factory pistons e85 would be safer), throw in a walbro 255 or equivalent and be done. stock gearbox, stock shafts all of that. as long as you dont start trying to run 12s on it at the drags both the engine and the box should survive

    a k24 swap would also work quite well IMO if you want to go a little different. there are dudes that do mount kits for them in the states iirc. not sure what the go is for shifter cables and whatnot but if you can muddle your way through it you would have a pretty torquey, more modern design engine, with limitless tunability if you wanna go nuts down the track

    FYI the 4AGZE is identical to a 4AGE in every way except for one crucial aspect. the 4AGZE runs forged, low comp pistons. either 8:1 in the early ones, or 8.9:1 in the late (AE101) ones. The pistons are still available from toyota and are cheap as fuck. My mate is running 23psi on a stock 4AGZE all day erry day and the cunt just keeps on trucking.

    edit - if you want tips etc on the various bits you need to do a proper 4AGTE build let me know. been there plenty times now...

  10. #70
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,282
    It's because my last engine build was a 1275A+ that cost about 8k and still only made about 30hp more, I need to adjust my expectations!

    I'm thinking 8.9:1 GZE pistons will be best, as I'll need to pull the engine for a rebuild soon anyway. Though mind you 9.5 forged Carrillo aren't much more. Even rebuilding the C52 with an LSD might be an option, is the C56 actually any stronger?

    Cheers!

  11. #71
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    106
    Don't quote me but I think syncros are improved on C56 as well as better ratios. Also available with factory LSDs

  12. #72
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,783
    They aren't actually stronger but I do seem to remember something about synchros

    I wouldn't go out of my way to get one, just find a cheap lsd for the c52.

    The 8.9:1 pistons are proper cheap man. Like under $400 for a whole set


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  13. #73
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Beach-ville
    Posts
    7,993
    Quote Originally Posted by trdee View Post
    m

    edit - if you want tips etc on the various bits you need to do a proper 4AGTE build let me know. been there plenty times now...
    Yes please.

    Brain dump in here would be awesome.

    I may also do silly cheap things to mine in sympathy.
    DJ's don't need sigs

  14. #74
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,282
    Quote Originally Posted by trdee View Post
    They aren't actually stronger but I do seem to remember something about synchros

    I wouldn't go out of my way to get one, just find a cheap lsd for the c52.

    The 8.9:1 pistons are proper cheap man. Like under $400 for a whole set.
    They are. I think I'll keep it simple and stick with the 4AGZE 8.9:1 pistons but use the MRP intake plenum and turbo manifold as well as some decent rods. Just rebuilding the existing C52 looks simplest - there doesn't appear to be any difference except the gear ratios with that and the C56. Think I'll still spend the money on the quaife diff, they're not that much in the scheme of things.

    The problem will be resisting the temptation to up the boost! There's probably not much difference between 200-300hp except turbo choice and ECU, and I'll probably go with an Elite 1000 just for the option of flex fuel.

  15. #75
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,783
    Vito's magic recipe for the cheapest 4AGTE AW11 you can build without compromising reliability significantly. Budget 2.5>4k if you do most of the labour

    - Stock gze bottom end. A used one is fine if you can get your hands on one for reasonble coin (I wouldnt pay more than $700 max), otherwise pull out your standard bigport AW11 motor and slap some new toyota or other bearings in it along with some 8.9:1 GZE pistons. (Part number 13103-16131 for QTY-1 of the 0.5mm oversize pistons, and part number 13013-16210 for a full set of rings for 4x pistons - cost is currently $47 per piston from amayama, for factory forged pistons thats a deal second to none https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1310316131).

    - If you really wanna go super cheap you can just boost the standard unopened engine, but if you have one bad batch of fuel or issues with the tune, she's likely to pop ring lands on the factory 4AGE pistons. The GZE pistons are as good as you will ever need so its good insurance IMO

    - Don't fuck around changing cranks, conrods, cams, head bolts, valves etc. All that shit is solid AF and you would only change them out if you wanted to punch 30psi down the cunt and/or do more than 8krpm all day every day. If you're rebuilding the engine with gze pistons and want to spend a couple hundred extra just because, you can throw some ARP main studs, head studs and rod bolts in it, but the OEM stuff really does seem to hold up just fine at 20psi etc. Up to you. You could do valve springs too if you really want, but my mate is running 23psi through his with no sign of valve float on stock springs

    - If rebuilding, get a TRD 0.8mm head gasket, part number 11115-AE814. They cost like $100 from RHDjapan EDIT $67 from nengun right now. So fucking cheap

    - For turbos - if youre happy with 160rwkw or less, get a $50>$100 TD04 and be done. If you want to go closer to the limits of a stock motor, get a borg warner EFR6258. Epic spool and will support 250rwkw, but the cost is over $2k for one of those puppies. Both of these are internal gate. If you want a different turbo or want to go ext gate then a 38mm gate is all the size you need. Dont need anything bigger

    - For manifolds - again if you dont want to chase big power just go to your local fabricator and knock up a basic log manifold If you wanna spend some extra, get a short runner low mount turbo manifold done. Either way, I really recommend this is to be done by a fab on the car because clearance is tight AF and off the shelf stuff rarely fits with your chosen turbo etc

    - If you want easy legality and arent chasing big power - aim the intake towards the passenger side of the car, that way you can route the intake into the factory boot intake. It will support 160kw, maybe more

    - If you want mad intake noises and/or are chasing big power, make the manifold/turbo face the drivers side instead, and get an S-bent pipe made up to route the intake into the side vent. You will obviously need to delete the side vent fan, but this setup means your intake pipe can be bigger, and it gets a faceful of fresh air at speed

    - You should get a good oil cooler. Some people have run air cooled coolers out of the side vent, or under the gearbox etc. My preference was for a water to oil system, plumbed in to replace the factory bypass water to oil cooler. The cooler I got was from PWR, part number PWO5944. The factory cooler might be ok if you are doing a mild setup never intended for a track. Run a gauge and you will find out soon enough I guess.

    - Dont fuck around wasting money on the intake side of the engine. Std throttle body, plenum etc are all fine. If using a bigport, you can fuck off the TVIS by buying a TVIS delete plate from someone like T3, or just get a fab to pull out the butterflies and close up everything (https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/1...g-port-adapter). Alternatively you can try plumbing in all the VSVs to your aftermarket ecu and keep TVIS working, but I havent seen anyone bother yet, and the spool with a TD04 or 6258 is amazing without TVIS anyway....

    - If you can get an E51 for cheap, then do it, but make sure you get the driveshafts with it too. You will need to buy new engine mounts from toyota/amayama. They dont cost heaps though. The standard E51 clutch tops out at around 150kw, an exedy HD tops out at around 200.

    - If you cant find a cheap E51, the C52 will suffice for up to 200kw as long as you treat it gingerly. You will need to upgrade the clutch to something which will hold your requested power level. An exedy HD will not do. You'll either need a custom clutch from NPC etc, or get something like an exedy ceramic cushion button or whatever. You will always be on borrowed time with a C52 though, kinda like running a 4AGTE behind a T50 in a sprinter. It might last for ever if you treat it well, it might not. YMMV

    - Don't fuck around even for a second with the stock ecu/afm etc. Get a programmable ecu of your choice. Adaptronic, Megasquirt, Haltech, Link etc. I wouldnt bother with anything old/unsupported as it's just a fuck around and 1k will get you a brand new ecu that will do everything a 4AGTE needs. The Spartan 2 wideband seems to be a good thing and a mate of mine in bris sells them and keeps stock etc (just race parts). Hit him up and get one of those hooked in as well for tuning and lean cruise stuff. These ecus all control boost as well so you dont need anything else apart from a 3 port MAC valve wired into the ecu for boost control (the EFR6258 has one of these integrated onto the turbo FYI)

    - For ignition, get some LS1 coilpacks and have some custom leads made up to suit. Do not go the 1zz coil on plug route unless you want to keep a spare in your glovebox at all times. They just dont seem to last, whereas my wrecker spec LS coils have supported up to 27psi on 1.1mm gap plugs without a single issue.

    - Plugs go for some copper NGK BCPR7E-11 and you're sorted. Nothing special needed here if you have good coils (see above )

    - Get some 7MGTE 440cc injectors and youre sorted for up to 200kw. They can be a little more hard to find these days, evo 5 or something 550cc injectors are another option. Either way, you dont need to spend big here

    - Standard fuel pressure reg is fine. If you want to spend money, I recommend the turbosmart FPR800 V2

    - Factory fuel pump tops out at about 150rwkw. I would say get a walbro 255, but I have grown to hate them, get something of a similar flow rate to one of them and you will have more than enough fueling. If you are thinking of E85 then an Aeromotive stealth 340 is a good pick

    - Water to air intercooler is the best option for a street setup. The venerable ST205 intercooler or an RS liberty intercooler do the job, but are hard to get and can be expensive. You can go for something from china/justjap here. Also bear in mind you will need to get an electric water pump, heat exchanger, and run lines to them up to the front of the car. Will cost some coin and be a fuck around, but is well worth it. Most of the generic cores require a swirl pot/filler also so dont forget to get one of those too. You can mount the pump either in the engine bay or up the front. I think the neatest option is up the front either in the frunk or behind the front bar next to the heat exchanger.

    - If you wanna keep AC you will need to be careful with sizing your heat exchanger, and you may need to make new top brackets for the radiator and tilt things back a bit to get it to fit. You will also be forced to run the turbo intake facing the passenger side, and make sure everything is in there so the manifold is fabricated with enough clearance to suit the turbo to ac compressor etc.

    - Std radiator is more than fine, if you find it is getting hot then it likely just needs a flush. I wouldnt bother with alloy rads unless you feel like spending a coule hundred for no reason or your factory one is proper fucked

    - Exhaust is relatively easy to get made up due to no crossmembers/other BS under the car. Just take it to an exhaust shop and get a 2.5" or 3" system made up, depending on your ultimate power goal etc

    - If the engine comes out, replace the firewall heatshielding with some adhesive foil type stuff. DEI reflect-a-cool etc. Firesleeve/heatsleeve the fuck out of your oil cooler lines (ask me why). Cover your shifter cables in fire sleeve too as the outer sheath can melt if they get too hot and then it feels like shifting through sand. Just heat sleeve everything. Trust me




    That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. Heat management, packaging, and good engine management are the three really important things. The mechanical stuff is actually the simplest

  16. #76
    Registered User Bren's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lockyer Valley, Qld
    Posts
    2,263
    I like where this is going!! And I completely agree with everything trdee has said. 4AG are way stronger than people give them credit for.

  17. #77
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    106
    noice post....

  18. #78
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,282
    Excellent info, thanks.

    The problem I can see with keeping the C52 now is that the only difference between 200-300hp with the 4AGZE pistons is turbo choice.

    I'm thinking somewhere between the T04 and BW is best for me, maybe a small Garrett? So the biggest question is whether to risk the C52 with that. I'll keep looking out for an E51 for now and let that decide the direction!

    Thanks, awesome post!

  19. #79
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,783
    personally i would go straight from the TD04 to the BW. the BW spools just as good as the TD04, but has way more power capacity. Any of the garrett turbos in between would spool slower and have hardly any more power capacity than the TD04. The TD04 will get you to 160kw atw anyway so it's kind of a waste of time to get anything else in my opinion

    yeah as i said, I would get an E51 if i could. it's good insurance. if it's too hard or you want to keep it budget then you can use the c52 though

  20. #80
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,282
    TRdee is like the shoulder devil of the AW11 community.

    It actually makes sense to overspend things a bit because my main costs are labour for the conversion anyway.

    It is a bit weird when simultaneously building an old Valiant that 'Borg warner' is a good thing in this context.

    Step 1 is to source an E51 that doesn't look like it's been sitting at the bottom of the ocean, so I'll be trawling classifieds for a while now...

  21. #81
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,282
    That was easier than expected, have a local lead on an E51.

    Shit's about to get real (in a year or so when I'm finally finished accumulating shiny parts). Of course, now I'm spending too much money building and fitting a decent gearbox the 200hp aim is out the window.

    300hp at the fly sounds like a good number, not too killdeathy but just killdeathy enough. Should drag it into the high 12's which is way too fast for an AW11 anyway.
    - Top end: simple 16V rebuild, will stock cams still do the job?
    - Bottom end: rebuilt 7 rib, new bearings, 4AGZE 8.9:1 pistons.
    - ARP fasteners, TRD head gasket.
    - Decent turbo manifold and MRP intake (I'm not looking to save money here and that will simply look better).
    - The EFR6528 looks good. But I'm fickle, and my mind will change at least seven times before then.

    Prepare yourselves for a long period of inactivity followed by the spending of lots of money. Criticism and insults are welcome.

  22. #82
    Registered User grape drink's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    85
    I am not even remotely planning a AW11 build, but that is one awesome post trdee.

  23. #83
    Opens Guido's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    In my Den of Sin??
    Posts
    7,638
    Have LS coils and a neat bracket for sale at the moment, also live pretty close to you. Just saying.
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Sports Sedan

  24. #84
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,282
    That's a neat solution! Given that's one of the last pieces I need I might wait until the stack of parts for the Valiant gets a bit smaller before buying one, to stop my other half getting suspicious.

  25. #85
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,783
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Purple View Post
    That was easier than expected, have a local lead on an E51. Make sure you get the driveshafts to go with it! They are harder to source than the gearboxes! The shifter cables are also different, but C52 shifter cables can be modified to work with an E51 if necessary

    Shit's about to get real (in a year or so when I'm finally finished accumulating shiny parts). Of course, now I'm spending too much money building and fitting a decent gearbox the 200hp aim is out the window.

    300hp at the fly sounds like a good number, not too killdeathy but just killdeathy enough. Should drag it into the high 12's which is way too fast for an AW11 anyway. 200-250kw is a nice amount of power in an AW11. It's entirely usable without needing to hack guards for wider tyres etc, but still fast enough to scare your mum/non car people. That being said, you will need to make sure the car has good suspension, good tyres (S comp semis at a minimum) and a good alignment. Or you will die, not joking
    - Top end: simple 16V rebuild, will stock cams still do the job? Yes they will, but you won't need to boost the engine as hard if you get cams. I would recommend some kelford turbo cams (they have a specific grind to suit turbo 4As, off the shelf). At that stage I would also invest in some supertech or toda or other uprated valve springs. They probably aren't necessary at that power level, but they cost fuckall and if you're now chasing 300hp instead of 200 then i can see the situation snowballing down the track :P
    - Bottom end: rebuilt 7 rib, new bearings, 4AGZE 8.9:1 pistons. Good
    - ARP fasteners, TRD head gasket. Good. Dont get raped on this stuff. Search shit like nengun/RHDjapan for the gaskets, and summit/american sites for the fasteners. You can save lots of coin there compared to buying from the more usual sources
    - Decent turbo manifold and MRP intake (I'm not looking to save money here and that will simply look better). Barry does good shit. I am a fan of his plenums
    - The EFR6528 looks good. But I'm fickle, and my mind will change at least seven times before then. Buy the EFR cunt. Or a GTX2860 or a GTX2867, depending on what power you ultimately want to aim for. I can read a compressor map for you and tell you which turbo is going to be the most suitable, but you must commit to a power goal (both for now and for the future) first. But seriously, buy the EFR. They are like witchcraft, the spool is out of this world

    Prepare yourselves for a long period of inactivity followed by the spending of lots of money. Criticism and insults are welcome. I excel at both
    Quote Originally Posted by grape drink View Post
    I am not even remotely planning a AW11 build, but that is one awesome post trdee.
    Thats what happens when you re-do (ahem... "optimise") your turbo setup 4 times and also help two other mates set up their turbo adubs

  26. #86
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,282
    It's good I've got someone else to make all the mistakes first!

    In the first purchase of this build, the E51 shifter cables are winging their way over from Kentucky (no, I don't know why or how either).

    Gearbox guru has a pile of E51s, and he thinks he also has the mounts and an unused TRD LSD to go into it. He needs to dive into the warehouse to sort that out but I should hear back in a week or two.

    Springs and the cam seem like a reasonable option and don't add, much, all things considered. Looking at the options for a W2A intercooler - the Frozenboost stuff seems suspiciously cheap, and the PWR stuff seems ridiculously expensive. Are the barrel coolers actually any good?

    I hear you regarding tyres and alignment. Part of the problem here is that I can probably afford the full bore 9AGTE stroker but I don't particularly want to die. Your roll racing videos have put me off there anyway! An initial aim of 250hp is probably sensible, but with enough scope to boost that a bit further if I want to - hence the springs and cam are probably a good move. The enkei and Federal RSR will go for some decent R-comps - 205 on the rear, and I'm contemplating a set of Work CR01s for some reason. So 80's...

  27. #87
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,783
    Cant say if the PWR barrel coolers are good. a mate of mine is using a chinesium barrel cooler though and it seems to go ok. He hasnt logged any high boost runs on the dyno though... Frozenboost just re-sell the chinesium stuff fyi

    In those roll racing vids - the traction (or lack thereof in 2nd and a bit of 3rd) which you are seeing is on 205/50/15 federal RSRs. At 200-250hp those tyres are ok. At my power level, I want to fuck these tyres off asap, even though theyre only my "street" tyres

  28. #88
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,282
    Deposit paid on the gearbox and it's being built over the next few months.

    Ended up being an E58 with a shifter conversion to suit the AW11 - slightly different ratios from what I understand and it will need custom axles (which I was expecting anyway) but it worked out a bit cheaper and should suit my goals. NOS TRD LSD which he's setting up as 1.5 way, and all four mounts included.

    I want a complete engine/trans package to drop in, so I'll just have to weigh up building a simple engine locally though I might get a price off Barry at MRP as well for something similar, coincidentally have a family trip to NZ coming up next year. Won't be taking delivery of anything more until I have the hemi in the Valiant though - I'm running out of room in the garage for parts!

    At least the gearbox is out of the way - next update June 2018 (maybe).

  29. #89
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Brisvegas
    Posts
    1,107
    But this would be the perfect time to hide parts.....

    "What's that second motor for???"

    Well, that would be the auxiliary start motor for the air con for the valiant....

    Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

  30. #90
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,783
    custom shafts arent cheap :/ i would have waited for an E51 with the shafts and whatnot to suit

    gear ratios between the various boxes can be found here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_E_transmission#E51

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •