I have always liked these things. Impressive resto mate.
I have always liked these things. Impressive resto mate.
Thanks. I've learned that doing an XR would have been MUCH easier tracking down parts (excluding the engine because it shares 99% with XT/TT). Italian Yamaha /= Japanese Yamaha in terms of availability or aftermarket support. There is going to be some bearing shop visits and reverse engineering to be done yet to get it all up to scratch and not cost a bomb.
Migaloo's cylinder and valve seats came back
Bit of a question mark on the valves though. The exhausts had a slight run-out and appeared to have a hard facing that required grinding through to clean up. I'll have to replace these. The inlets are better although I'm not sure whether they are able to be refurbished or need to be replaced to.
Seats copped a touch and come up nicely on the 1mm margin called for in the factory service manual.
Dremel will have to come out again to maybe do some valve un-shrouding pending compression ratio check.
New valves and springs ordered.
Also agreed to buy a complete secondhand Husqvarna TC450 front end to adapt. Marzocchi Shiver 45mm USD fork, Brembo brakes, Excel rim.
Ha, I'm OCD about rescuing poor neglected mechanical things, I would struggle to let something go that I've done too much work on
get lead like a leader
Forged triple clamps, Excel rim, Brembos, and Marzocchis. Should be a fair whack lighter than the originals while being stiffer, work better and better parts availability. I just have to get cracking on the conversion. New tank arrived to, 20 ish L.
I started comparing the triple trees for the conversion and it is looking like there will be minimal work to get it to work. The bearing shells were a pain to get out of the frame as there was almost no lip to apply force on. I also pushed out all the swing arm bearings and seals with a vice and my trusty socket set. A press would have made it a lot easier.
It came up 9.8:1 compression ratio with 1.5mm squish clearance.
Eta to massive, ag pump sounding wheelies ?
Fair bit to do yet, id be surprised if it is going in a months time really with a busy work schedule. I could only get half the linkage bearings and seals mail order so there is some measuring up to do. I'd like to get grease nipples on them all to.
Thoughts/advice on 1.5mm squish clearance? I have some scope to reduce this with a thinner or removed base gasket. Big end and mains are rolling element bearings.
I found this photo on the Ohlins website. 2WD TT600:
I feel like making a set of long primary headers after seeing that. I think I like that hydraulic motor type front wheel drive than the super complicated Christini system.
Last edited by 9triton; 19-07-13 at 09:30 PM.
I could maybe go thinner on the base gasket?
Fail box. RH case is cracked between the gearbox shafts. Also needs a new 3rd gear set. Suprisingly the clutch basket is great, not sure what to do now as the cases are unique to the kick start R model.
I was pretty pleased with my flywheel puller that I made, worked a charm.
Got any process tips? It's not really something I have got done before.
There is a bearing retainer plate thing (part 15) that bridges the cracked area. I might be able to make something beefy for both sides during the welding to limit distortion. I think it would have to be reienforced somehow as due to the reduction of strength in the heat affected zone.
That's twice now I've come here expecting a cool BMW. Shit.
Originally Posted by piss98
Just going by photos I think I can increase the thickness of part 15 to at least the height of the adjacent bearing which should add some stiffness to the area.
Yeah, send it to someone who knows what they're doing... I'd use Niccom (Niccom.com.au), but there's probably someone closer to you.
Thanks, I'll get in touch with them.
Last edited by ls400x; 06-08-13 at 01:38 PM.
Gday, I have a TTR600 got it in 2004 brand new, Rode it for a few years then decided to modify.
Long story short it was getting very rattly, discovered counter shaft key way flogged out so save it from destroying itself.
rebuilt keyway and locktighted in key, its a common problem.
disconnected black and red wire on CDI this cuts out rev limiter.
Top end rebuild cleaned up ports ,valves recut and kibble white racing springs and titanium retainers fitted.
Bored out for 98mm wiseco piston.
split the cases replaced all bearings and 4th and 5th gear.
Fabricated 1 into 2 alloy manifold for 40mm mikuni pumper carb.
Fabricated stainless oil tank for increased capacity 3.5 ltrs and access to carb.
Fabricated alloy airbox access from top using XR600 filter standard airbox useless offroad dust ingress all the time.
Hope this helps with some idea's, The Paioli forks are a good unit if tuned correctly they are a copy of the Kayaba so all bushes and seals fit.
Post any questions as have tinkered with the TTR600 for years and might be able to help out,Cheers.
Mikuni mounted on manifold ,Mods were done 6 years ago so has stood the test of time ,High revs and long kms.
Awesome! thanks for sharing so much info.
I'll be sure to pay special attention to keys when/if mine gets back together. After much internet trawling I found one person talking about how they had found a Yamaha manual with a ignition vs. revs graph and it had a second curve for the black/red wire disconnected that was 6 degrees further advanced everywhere. Mine was already disconnected when I got it although I haven't had it running yet to test the theory.
I opted for new valves because the machine shop said that they were initially hard to grind then once through the outer layer got softer. If I had have known about the Ti retainers I think I would have bought a set. Are they Kibble White as well? I might have to look into it.
That's interesting about the Paoli fork. I might have stuck with them if I had have known about alternative bushes. The parts I priced up locally came to about $400 including seals. That's what gave me incentive to look for something else.
I was looking at my air box and was wondering how it would go. There is nothing positive to compress the outer edges of the filter on to the air box. There is also a joint line between the cover an main box that would have to have a small unsealed area. I like your compressed down style air filter better.
Have you heard of any other TT600Rs cracking the cases like mine? If it is common it might influence my next move. I was thinking it might be better to buy another good tidy bike and swap my good bits into it but I'm worried it will have cracked cases to.
Last edited by ls400x; 22-08-13 at 07:07 PM.