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Thread: RX8 L98 (continued)

  1. #1
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    RX8 L98 (continued)

    So I bought this RX8 with an L98/T56 from MFJones, built by evosti/safety dance.
    Original build thread - http://www.performanceforums.com/for...ghlight=evosti

    Thought I would post some updates/info. Car is good, has balls, goes well.
    Took the car through ACT rego which it promptly failed, here's the list and my thoughts.
    LHF park globe flashing
    RHF park globe dim - fixed. Culprit of the front parking lights being crap were some dodgy LEDs, replaced them with normal halogens and everything was fine.
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    No side repeater indicators - this is an Aus delivered car and they don't have them, idiots.
    Remove front side facing white lights - once again, Aus delivered car all lights are factory, idiots.

    LHR outer park light nil. - Fixed. Cuplrit was the outer LEDs not working. They were disconnected and looked like someone else had tried to repair them previously. Anyway the wiring had power so I pulled apart the light and replaced the LEDs.
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    Don't have pics of doing the LED repair.

    Remove all non compliant window tint. - Will get it removed
    All tyres worn on inner edges - meh new tyre time I guess.
    Modified steering rose joints - This car has tie rod extenders to help with bump steer. Engineers report states the tie rod end extensions are fine, but because the report didn't specifically mention rose joints they failed it
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    R/H rack boot split. - fixed.
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    Secure spacer at gear box mount. - for some reason there was a bit of loose RHS wedged under the gearbox mount, I removed it as wasn't sure of use. meh.
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    Remove all play from steering. - there is no play, steering is tight, once again idiots.

    The reverse lockout solenoid for the T56 wasn't operating. This means you have to fight the spring pressure on the solenoid to select reverse gear. I stuck the multimeter on the plug and it wasn't getting 12V. The ECU side was switching to ground with ign on/off so it seemed ok. I traced the power wiring back to the ECU and sure enough it wasn't connected. Connected it up to 12V ign switched (factory has it to Batt) and the solenoid now works. Problem is it works too well and doesn't turn off when the car is moving, obviously not ideal as I don't want to change from 4th to reverse whilst going down the road. I will confirm with the multimeter whilst driving and take some pics. Does anyone know if this is a configurable option in the ECU? Is it possible it was turned off to prevent an error code with the solenoid being previously disconnected?

    The ECU wiring is all functional but I'm going to clean it up a bit, will take pics. I need to purchase some new ECU connector sockets for this.
    I purchased some heat insulation that I placed under the tunnel and near exhaust components to help block some heat out of the cabin. This was painful as I had to cut it into smaller pieces in order to work around the gearbox etc being in there. If I ever pull the drivetrain out I will definitely clean it all up and do it as one piece. I had to use a lot of foil tape to cover the gaps/edges. I have before pics but no after pics as yet. Will take some next time I'm under there. Working on the car is somewhat annoying as I have to drive it up on some 75mm thick sleepers and some 2x4s to jack it up and as I'm in an apartment my tools are about 50M away from my car spot.
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    Also I put the stock rear muffler on. It is much quieter but does kill a bit of HP. The car has poly engine mounts and the Tein coilovers are quite stiff, all up this creates a lot of NVH which in my old age I'm not a fan of, had enough of this with the 993. After I've finished the car with more sound dampening I will put the more free flowing rear muffler back on and check if it is ok.
    I might relocate the battery to the front and maybe redo some of the diff subframe welding. I will redo the stereo system - it has one front speaker not working and horrible alternator whine, this is all easily fixed. Plus add bluetooth or a full android tablet in the dash. When the interior of the car is apart I will be Dynamatting everything, including the roof. Hopefully this will quiet the ride enough. I also have a factory alarm system upgrade and a full auto headlight kit to install.

    I'm not good at build logs so hopefully I'll take pics of everything.
    Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  2. #2
    Registered User Mc Juicy Hairy Balls's Avatar
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    Good score. Try to rage quit once or twice.

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    TJzone TJ's Avatar
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    Not a bad list considering the mods!
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  4. #4
    Sensei Cobra
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    From memory, the ECU will operate the solenoid based on a speed input. Maybe that input hasn't been hooked up and the lockout was left out. In my Lexus, I ran a separate little controller unit for the lockout. The E38 ECU I had wanted a two wire speed signal of some kind but I only had single wire inputs available in the Lexus system.

    I can't remember which one I used, but if you search T56 Reverse Lockout Controller there are plenty of options.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bahaimus View Post
    From memory, the ECU will operate the solenoid based on a speed input....
    Correct.

    Just checking a manual I have and it states:
    Reverse Inhibit Solenoid Command: This parameter displays the commended state of the reverse inhibit solenoid. When the vehicle speed is greater than 5Km/hr, the solenoid is commanded ON, inhibiting shifts to Reverse. When the vehicle speed is less than 5KM/hr tje solenoid is commanded OFF, allowing shifts to Reverse. The scan tool will display ON/OFF.
    Last edited by KDog; 12-10-17 at 04:42 PM.
    Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  6. #6
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    By memory this motor and box came from a VE Ute like mine did. That means vehicle speed is communicated to the E38 via CAN from the ABS module which gets it from the wheel speed sensors. I put a speed sensor in the box and wired it into pins x & y (Ill get this info when I get home) and it works fine. You can turn on a speed input in the ECU

    How does the factory speedo in the dash work? ABS module on the RX8?

  7. #7
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    Yes it was from a VE ute.
    I'm pretty sure the RX8 dash gets speed through CANbus, probably from another module like the VE does. I'll be able to wire up a VSS (pins 71/72) no worries or maybe generate one from the CANbus but I don't have any software to modify the ECU. No big deal, will worry about it later or put a manual switch in somewhere.
    Last edited by KDog; 12-10-17 at 04:59 PM.
    Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  8. #8
    Former hairdresser Captain_Slow's Avatar
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    Er...I can see the side repeater indicators clearly in one of the photos. They're on the trailing edge of the front bar. How can a rego inspector not see that?

    That aside, most excellent conversion concept. Proceed.

  9. #9
    25 schmeckles? Do the safety dance.'s Avatar
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    Yes, that clear light on the front bar should be an indicator, but it's been wired up as a park light. One of the many wiring treats I inherited when I bought the car. Bulk LED's everywhere. And yeah the engine wiring, I got it all working with the factory loom and just cut the wires I didn't need. I had planned to pair the loom down when I next had the engine out but ended up not needing to drop it again so never got around to it.

    The stereo has been severely fucked with. When I got it, the after market head unit was removed with the stock one in the boot. Most of the Bose speakers have been replaced with after market stuff along with the factory amps. I put in the Alpine amp with line converters to attempt to get the stock stereo working with the after market speakers as the factory Bose speakers run a special impedance. Total head fuck and didn't work that great anyway.

    Speedo works through ABS wheel speed sensors as mentioned. I never even considered the reverse lock out needed a vehicle speed sensor to work, I just put up with it.

    Insulating the tunnel properly was something I never got around to, should make it much more pleasant in summer. Lucky the AC works well

  10. #10
    Registered User mad_cow's Avatar
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    ACT Rego sucks, they failed me because I had no 02 sensors. Only they were looking at cat temp probes.

  11. #11
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KDog View Post
    Yes it was from a VE ute.
    I'm pretty sure the RX8 dash gets speed through CANbus, probably from another module like the VE does. I'll be able to wire up a VSS (pins 71/72) no worries or maybe generate one from the CANbus but I don't have any software to modify the ECU. No big deal, will worry about it later or put a manual switch in somewhere.
    Yeah that's where I put mine- 71 & 72 on Black Connector (J1). I send a speed output from the ecu from pin 57 to a Dakota Digital speed corrector then onto the dash. Be nice if the FD had the same setup as the RX8 there.

    I machined the rear extension housing on the TUET8381 box to fit a GM speed sensor where one wasn't previously. Works well and is a neat install
    Last edited by lukevl; 12-10-17 at 06:41 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Do the safety dance. View Post
    Yes, that clear light on the front bar should be an indicator, but it's been wired up as a park light. One of the many wiring treats I inherited when I bought the car. Bulk LED's everywhere.
    That explains the cluster fuck of wiring I found in the front guards. lol.

    I should be able to fix the stereo no worries. I'll rip it apart and put in some proper preamps with differential output (or maybe optical out) and run that to the Alpine amp. I have lots of audio gear laying around unused, probably put some Crescendo splits up front, get rid of the rear and add an Image Dynamics sub.
    Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lukevl View Post
    Yeah that's where I put mine- 71 & 72 on Black Connector (J1). I send a speed output from the ecu from pin 57 to a Dakota Digital speed corrector then onto the dash. Be nice if the FD had the same setup as the RX8 there.

    I machined the rear extension housing on the TUET8381 box to fit a GM speed sensor where one wasn't previously. Works well and is a neat install
    Cool. If the factory spot for the VSS on the T56 is covered for whatever reason I'll just build a CANbus interface and grab it from there.
    Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  14. #14
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Id be keen to know how you do that. Get vehicle speed from RX8 and convert it to the signal the VE wants? I thought youd need the VE ABS module to figure that out. Which is why I just put a 2 wire speed sensor in lol.

    The rear extension housing just isnt machined for a speed sensor on this vehicle. So I just replicated how it would fit by machining it out.

  15. #15
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    Just grab the CANbus and write a program to change the solenoid with vehicle speed. You could convert it to a VSS signal fairly easily and input to the VE ECU but that's a bit of extra work and electronics which aren't needed.

    eg There are 4 wheel speed sensors to choose from, or the overall calculated speed is also available.
    CAN ID for Vehicle speed in the RX8 is 00000201 and the data is on bytes 4 and 5. Data/100 = speed in KM/hr.

    Solenoid = output1
    For CAN ID = 00000201
    VSS = bytes 4,5

    If VSS/100 < 5 then
    Solenoid = 1
    Else
    Solenoid = 0.
    loop

    Electronic output is easy, just an optocoupler on output of microcontroller, mosfet with source to ground, gate to optocoupler, drain to Solenoid.
    Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  16. #16
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    That makes sense. Do you reverse engineer the location and type of signal or search online?

    I wanted VSS to the ECU so it can accurately control fans, AC etc

  17. #17
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    There's a little bit of info online for the RX8 but not much. Most of it you have to drive around and control variables as much as possible and take guess. The RX8 has both high and low speed CANbusses. Haven't really started yet, but as I want to get the cruise control going I will have to build my own module for that.
    Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  18. #18
    Grumpy cunt ChrisS's Avatar
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    Nice one!
    Hows it work with engineering?
    Do or did you have ti get it re-engineered for ACT or just transfer it with a normal RWC?

    Did it have to go to Dickheadson?

    ACT Rego is a joke, not because of how strict it is (although that's a joke also) but because half the cunts that do the inspections don't know what they are talking about.

    / --------------- \
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  19. #19
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    Original Eng Cert was done under NCOP, so ACT has to accept it. Had to go through the new inspection station at Hume because modified vehicle with certs.
    Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  20. #20
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    I took some pics of the heat sheild I put in place. I still need to do some more. To do it properly I should really drop the drivetrain out so I have much better access to the tunnel etc, maybe one day.
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    The VSS boss is on the gearbag but it isn't machined out. So I'll have to design/build/prog something to run from the RX8 CANbus to run the Reverse Lockout soleniod. No big deal, will probably intergrate it with the cruise control module I need to build eventually anyway.

    So I cleaned up the wiring under both front wheel wells, the owner previous to the ls1 conversion had decided that the indicators should be park lights and have put the crappy LED wedge globes everywhere. He had cut the wiring right at the plug so they couldn't be reused. No big deal, as they are never going to be disconnected I just hard wired them with solder and heatshrink. The drivers side had the wrong lamp holder, so it was loose in the fitting, rather than try and source the correct lamp holder I just hot glued the fitting in (it was the right diameter but no the correct locking pins). The passenger side the wiring was just twisted and taped together, this is now all properly soldered, heat shrinked and wrapped with cloth loom tape. So now all lighting is working how it should be.

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    As I hate plastic screw clip fasteners I took the opportunity to break out the nutserts and replaced all the clips with M6 SS nutserts, M6 SS buttonheads and SS mudguard washers.
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    I've tried to rotate the pics so they are the correct orientation but this forum software doesn't like it.
    Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  21. #21
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    Update time.
    Replaced the stock transmission mount with a polyurethane one. This raised the rear of the box slightly which helps driveline angle and adds some exhaust clearance, also gets rid of the ugly stock one. Cut off the unnecessary tangs which were on the cross member and cut a bit off one of the corners which was hitting the gearbox.

    So from this:
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    To this:
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    Also connected the speed sensor wiring into pins 71/72 of the X1 ECU connector and the reverse lockout solenoid functions.

    So round two with rego went ok. Just the battle of the rose joints to finish now.

    NCOP requires that rose joints are listed separately for my tie rod end extensions. As my engineers report only mentions the tie rod end extensions and doesn't specifically mention the rose joints the car won't pass. I contacted the original engineer to ask how I can have the certificate made compliant. Turns out he is a complete fuckwit who after a few phone calls I refuse to deal with. He remembers the car and the rose joints being on the end of the tie rod extensions, but almost refuses to do the task. He claims it is hours of work to write a new certificate (just a few extra words are required). He is extremely abrasive and very difficult to communicate with, so I won't be giving him the $350 he wants to fix something he didn't do correctly the first time. He also claims that I should just rego it in NSW. This wouldn't solve anything as the cert should still be NCOP compliant (which it isn't) and therefore I should have the same problem in NSW. Not really sure how this got past NSW RTA the first time but it did.
    Anyway after talking with the manager at ACT inspection station he is happy for me to have an engineer of my choice write a compliance report for just the tie rod ends/rose joints and have it annex the original report. So this is what I will be doing. As I don't have any data on the rose joints and I suspect they are ebay specials I will be replacing them with known rose joints which I have data sheets for.
    Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  22. #22
    Two years in Lompoc... Lobster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisS View Post
    Nice one!
    Hows it work with engineering?
    Do or did you have ti get it re-engineered for ACT or just transfer it with a normal RWC?

    Did it have to go to Dickheadson?

    ACT Rego is a joke, not because of how strict it is (although that's a joke also) but because half the cunts that do the inspections don't know what they are talking about.
    Friend of mine put a s2 Rx7 with 13b conversion through dickson. They were looking at it for 10 minutes before one of the guys said "Hang on a minute. This is turbo? You need to have engineering for this!" Which he did. But they were being dicks about the car as soon as he came in so he just let them do their thing.
    Previously known as Lobster, Chuss's brother's anus, Chuss's brother, Lobsook, Lobstersock, Socks, Sockz, MissAmericaImportGirl, ClutchCLobster

    CJM 4 Life yo!

  23. #23
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    Fixing some wiring and redoing the stereo system.

    This RX8 came with a 9 speaker bose audio system from the factory. Tweeters and 9" driver in the front doors (with an amp for each side), centre speaker, splits in the rear (with another amp).

    My plan was to update the internals of the factory head unit to give it proper preouts, and bluetooth etc. Reason for this is that it isn't very difficult and the factory climate control is somewhat part of the stereo system. When I pulled the factory HU out the owner previous to Safety Dance had really done a butchering job on it. Of the 17 or so screws which are supposed to hold various parts together most were missing. Also most plastic clips were broken. This explains the huge amounts of rattling going on in the dash. The dash, centre console and general interior is missing a lot of screws and clips, so I decided I couldn't be bothered trying to repair the factory HU and purchased a Kenwood DMX7027BTS double din mechless unit to go in.

    Also going to replace the crappy fusion speakers, line level converters etc with some nice Crescendo Opus splits up front, no rear fill. The doors, floor, boot and roof will all be treated with sound deadening, either Dynamat Extreme or Focal BAM. Whilst there I was fixing dodgy wiring, replacing clips and fixing everything. In round two I might add some subs, round two of the audio system will have my IDQ8s in the front doors (sealed enclosure) and Veritas HLCD under the dash.

    Front door with Dynamat on the outside skin.
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    Door with Crescendo driver on panel. Had to rewrap the factory wiring harness as it had been a bit butchered from people using the factory speaker wires for the Fusion speakers that were previously fitted. The front left didn't work as the input to the Fusion xover had broken, plus Fusion so shit anyway. Someone had cut a hole in the right hand side cover plastic for some reason and left open. I filled the cutout with 3mm MDF and then layed Dynamatt over both sides. Both front doors will also have Focal Bamm to cover the inside skin/plastic up. The splits mount at the top door pillar but it isn't shown in this pic.
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    I ran proper speaker cabling for the new splits through the factory harness connector, it isn't the easiest but it's doable. Below shows some of the wiring which has been left loose, the blue and the clear OFC speaker cable is the new stuff I have run for the splits. I cleaned up all the other wiring also but don't have any finished pics.
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    Stripped naked interior, also shows the installed Kenwood DMX7017.
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    Stripped rear end. For some reason Mazda decided that paint wasn't necessary on the crossbraces in the rear, no idea why. These were wire brushed, primed and painted before being reinstalled.
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    Interior with Focal BAM, it extends up under the dash in the footwells but you can't see it in the pics as I've put the factory rubber back over the top of it.
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    I also moved the battery so it wasn't in the middle of the boot. I love nutserts.
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    Boot covered with Dynamat. You can see the nutserts in the top right for battery mount.
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    Here's the sound deadening on the rear. Carpet was washed whilst it was out and the front seats have been reinstalled. The battery is now off to the drivers side instead of being in the middle of the ski hatch. Rear seat crossmembers painted and back on. The rear speakers were removed and the holes covered with 6mm MDF, also the factory amp hole was covered. The top of the parcel shelf was covered in Focal Bam but I don't have any pics of this. If you look closely you may notice some SS screws with mudguard washers to replace plastic clips, I like the nutsert kit and hate plastic clips. The rear centre console section has the speaker cables (wrapped in black fabric wrap), RCAs, remote wire, reverse wire and reverse video lead running through it to the HU, although can't easily see in this pic.
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    Alpine amp is mounted up under the rear parcel shelf on the 6mm MDF, the crossovers for the Crescendo splits are mounted to the rear seat backrest on some MDF, this will all change with round two so nothing special with the install. Still have to finish deadening the front doors, and put the centre console back in. Once this is finished I will put out the headlining and apply Focal BAM to the roof. Then it is back to mechanicals.
    Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  24. #24
    25 schmeckles? Do the safety dance.'s Avatar
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    Looking good, you have some patience!
    I put the stereo in the too hard basket, just a total mess of random wires and things I don't understand everywhere.

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