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Thread: 1jz-gte + ra28 = skids

  1. #541
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Have it a day early? Fingers crossed for me that means less people at the track and more time for me chasing down time slips
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  2. #542
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    When haltech released the (gauge art) programable can gauge I thought they looked awesome! Right up until I found out the price, then I ran away quickly!! Think it was about $600 when they first cam out from memory.

    But a few months ago my boss bought one for his car, he installed and programmed it drove home once and pulled it out the next day because he didn't like it. It then sat on the smoko room table between me and him calling my name every day "install me Glenn!!" But I couldn't justify the price that was until my innovate MTX-L wideband gauge shit itself the other day for the 3rd time and at $200+ a pop it would have payed for itself already!! And I can monitor the o2 AFR from the haltech wideband and didn't need a second sensor in the same pipe, So the time had come to buy it from him.

    This is a picture of the gauge in ts 3 different formats. Single, double or quad gauges

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    Next thing I would need was a can hub to plug in my haltech wideband controller and can gauge (the elite ecu has 2 can input/outputs but I didn't realise until this point one is vehicle specific data (abs/traction e.t.c) and the other is for haltech inputs/outputs.

    On my old tyco style (platinum series ecu') can hub that you could pull apart I found the can hub had a VERY simple pcb inside with absolutely NO smarts or chips of any description and it simply joined all the common power pins together same with the earth, can-high and the can-low pins. So I decided rather than buying a can hub I would simply tap the gauge into my can network and see if it would work, and it did! Perfectly

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    Also I bit the bullet and ordered myself some new BC valve springs from Golbys Parts today and I decided to go with the titanium retainers. It will be interesting to measure the different weights from factory to aftermarket setup, I still want to go to larger cams and shimless buckets but a larger set of cams will still need better springs so this isn't wasted money and I also know I have an issue with the dramas that happened at Toyota nationals in Dubbo recently.

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    I wanted to do something about the valve train issues before going to the drags on Sunday week so I can use the 2 step and try to get my green shitter into the 9's (that's the dream anyway) dyno will quickly tell me if the top end is/was lacking any power due to spring pressure and valve float.
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  3. #543
    Registered User SR20 KE30's Avatar
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    the ti retainers are crazy light, if you put one in your hand you pretty much can't feel the weight of it! 9's do it, plenty of room left in your boost levels.

  4. #544
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Tonight I got very little done for so much time and effort, I was making the pipe from my idle motor across to pre turbo for filtered air (the pipe that used to run down between the cam covers when i had plug leads but now I again have coils taking up that space!)

    From this angle wasn't so bad.

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    That was until I forgot about my PCV valve which I had pulled out of te way moments before starting to fabricate said pipe... so it had to get a little kink in the middle to clear.

    I made a little foot to bolt to a spair thread in the head at the front of the pipe and a little tab to bolt through the engine hook at the rear end.

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    Hook had to be spaced out so the pipe could run up the inside of it close to the rocker cover, thick washers tacked on and a hole drilled for mounting the rear of the pipe to it.

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    Sitting pretty, needs a coat of black paint tomorrow to hide back into the gap but should work a treat should also mention since putting the 2 wire idle motor on I have had zero issues with idle and starting like I had before! It's fucking awesome! Would recommend!

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    My mate with his turbo LS commodore came past work tonight while I was tinkering (he is also coming to the drags and amped for drag challenge also) and he organised both out entry's for the drags which is sweet!! Now I just have to not kill it between now and then! Lol
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  5. #545
    Registered User Ke26 Wagon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by _glenn_archer_ View Post
    My mate with his turbo LS commodore came past work tonight while I was tinkering (he is also coming to the drags and amped for drag challenge also) and he organised both out entry's for the drags which is sweet!! Now I just have to not kill it between now and then! Lol
    Nobody calls Lewis a mate

  6. #546
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ke26 Wagon View Post
    Nobody calls Lewis a mate
    Sorry cunt, this other Cunt I know Lewis came past work last night ;p
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  7. #547
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    New BC springs measured really consistently!
    Seat pressure of 80lbs @ 1.325" (33.65mm)
    Open pressure of 158lbs @ .980" (24.89mm)
    Coil bind @ .810" (20.57mm)

    And the old springs actually went better than expected, with only one spring being substantially lower than the rest

    Roughly 52lbs @1.325" on the seat and 108lbs @ .980" open.
    Inlet valve spring #9 was the standout.

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    Ti retainer and new spring on the left, factory on the right.

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    Factory spring and retainer on the left, BC spring and Ti retainer on the right.
    They don't look much bigger in the spring material but tests show they are as specified.

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    Long story short, I didn't loose any power to the new springs and retainers but I didn't gain any power or RPM like I had honestly expected before testing the stock springs. but after adding an extra 2 degrees of timing and picked up some extra power it's now made a healthy 396kw at 20psi

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    Tonight I properly mounted my new haltech gauge where my old wideband Innovate MTX-L gauge used to be and so far I'm happy with it might have to make up a few more pages of data to scroll through on the fly

    But in the process of removing the old gauge and its sensor I think I found the reason it has chewed a few oxygen sensors... when I pulled this one out it was literally dripping with condensation but the one further up the dump pipe for the haltech as NEVER had an issue! And it's the one now being displayed.

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    Even braved the 2 step again! I must admit I was scared to hit it! But now it's awesome! Making 15psi on the foot brake in second gear looking forward to this Sunday and having a go!!!
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  8. #548
    Registered User Justengt4's Avatar
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    Awesome!

    E85 is shit for condensation...the LS made so much I got pulled up at SM1000 for a 'fuel leak' which was just all the water pissing out of the exhaust V-band joint :roll eyes:
    GT8
    1UZ Celica
    1.07 flat Wakefield Park

  9. #549
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Dropped the o2 sensor back to try my luck on warrently lol so see how that goes but speaking of water dripping from the exhaust I should probably find a new owner for my water methanol kit instead of letting it collect dust in my shed forever!
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  10. #550
    Registered User Tyrie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by _glenn_archer_ View Post
    Dropped the o2 sensor back to try my luck on warrently lol so see how that goes but speaking of water dripping from the exhaust I should probably find a new owner for my water methanol kit instead of letting it collect dust in my shed forever!
    What did I miss? Given up on water/meth already?

  11. #551
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tyrie View Post
    What did I miss? Given up on water/meth already?
    Water to air intercooler = win for intake temp without the water meth. So it's not in the car anymore know anyone that might be interested?
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  12. #552
    Registered User TRD-MX62's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by _glenn_archer_ View Post
    Water to air intercooler = win for intake temp without the water meth. So it's not in the car anymore know anyone that might be interested?
    yep!
    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    the theory is the fuel pump is one of the only things that can fuck out on a diesel

  13. #553
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    Quote Originally Posted by _glenn_archer_ View Post
    Water to air intercooler = win for intake temp without the water meth. So it's not in the car anymore know anyone that might be interested?
    Possibly also yes...

  14. #554
    Registered User Tyrie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by _glenn_archer_ View Post
    Water to air intercooler = win for intake temp without the water meth. So it's not in the car anymore know anyone that might be interested?
    Cool (pun intended)! Nah I couldn't recommend it after my experience.

  15. #555
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Racing today was sooooo awesome... said no one, because they CANCELED the drags! Lucky I pre payed and they sent a message to say they shit canned it otherwise would have been a long drive and a pissed off Glenn at the gates early this morning!!

    Will send some PM's out about the water meth kit trd-mx62 / Ricardo
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  16. #556
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Anyone with real world experience on larger JZ cams want to weigh in,

    Thinking I'm gonna order some bigger cams soon to upgrade the hks264 cams probably

    BC272 or BC280

    From what I have read the BC272 with its 9.52mm/9.65mm lift seem to be a lot bigger the 7.69mm/7.95mm of stock(I believe the hks264 cams only had stock lift but google says 9mm lift?)

    Maybe I should pull a rocker over off and test with a dial gauge? see what they actually have!

    Or should I upgrade my rear turbo housing and dump pipe first? .64 rear housing to .86 or even 1.05 and the dump pipe from 3" to a 3.5 or 4 if I can for it (but don't think I'll be able too for 4" even 3.5" will be a struggle past the steering at least).
    Last edited by _glenn_archer_; 22-05-18 at 11:59 PM.
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  17. #557
    Registered User Justengt4's Avatar
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    This is post beers talk yeah?

    264ís with the bigger a/r housing is as much as youíll need on a stock bottom end surely?
    GT8
    1UZ Celica
    1.07 flat Wakefield Park

  18. #558
    Registered User GSRman's Avatar
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    I always thought 9mm lift was as high as you could go without machining the head for clearance, check, but BC probably have made it as big as you can fit on a stock head...

    That said, more gains from bigger exhaust housing I'd think, but you are going to lose some responsiveness either way. (Duh)

    but - devils advocate - i already have a larger exhaust & 272's and your thing makes more power (pretty sure).
    Last edited by GSRman; 24-05-18 at 09:47 AM.
    This is a post i wrote by mistake, which is nice...

    PF GT5 whore car list https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...thkey=CPKNmOIJ

  19. #559
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justengt4 View Post
    This is post beers talk yeah?

    264ís with the bigger a/r housing is as much as youíll need on a stock bottom end surely?
    It may have been justin.... what's your point haha

    And as much as I need? Probably... but as much as I want? I don't even know when I'll call it quits lol at some point I'll torch the stock bottom end and go a proper built engine not just a freshened up junker

    Would like to make 400kw with 20psi tho that would be nice. (Only 4kw away now tho lol)

    Also Street Machine sent out Drag Challenge pre entry's yesterday so the Celica is entered for November again!! that will be a siik week again! And starting in Melbourne is a lot better for me this time being closer to canberra than Adelaide was
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  20. #560
    Registered User Justengt4's Avatar
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    The housing change will get you that easy. Way cheaper than cams and you wonít lose as much drivability 👍 go the 3.5 inch dump seeing thatís a pretty easy mod for you to make yourself...might even get you back some response
    Last edited by Justengt4; 25-05-18 at 10:33 PM.
    GT8
    1UZ Celica
    1.07 flat Wakefield Park

  21. #561
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    The big question is do I go to the .86 or jump straight to the big girl at 1.05?

    At this point I have no lack of response! Hahah
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  22. #562
    Registered User Justengt4's Avatar
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    .86 would be my choice....should be plenty of dyno charts around to compare the difference between the 86 and 105?
    GT8
    1UZ Celica
    1.07 flat Wakefield Park

  23. #563
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Go the 1.05, I've got a GT35/T04z hybrid with the large rear and its power to the moon.
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  24. #564
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justengt4 View Post
    .86 would be my choice....should be plenty of dyno charts around to compare the difference between the 86 and 105?
    Seems surprisingly hard to find genuine real world information from people who have changed housings not just "my cousins brothers mate had one and it went fuckn hard bro" however if you see any feel free to post them!

    I am kinda leaning towards the .86 but but I would be annoyed if it didn't make enough difference to warrant the work and cost lol only to do it again in the 1.05
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

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