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  1. #691
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    A transmission leak doesn't mean it's fucked. Have a closer look Cracka.

  2. #692
    Registered User SR20 KE30's Avatar
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    Nice update and good effort hitting it hard and getting it sorted.

  3. #693
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    Good update mate. Pity it didn't make the sketchypip flatbrim day but good to see you about. Gotta go for a run in this.
    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .


  4. #694
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    Quote Originally Posted by uuheels View Post
    A transmission leak doesn't mean it's fucked. Have a closer look Cracka.
    In my experience, it will be fucked, 100%.

    The last gearbox I did 4 1/4 miles in, 5 skids and drove for under 3000km was also funnily enough a dell converter, put together by same person, and shat itself in a massive way turning it's entire insides into liquid.

    Nothing i can do about it except treat gearboxs in modified cars as $1000 per 1000km service items on average. This is kind of why I'm now at a crossroads of throwing all this shit on gumtree and starting again from scratch with a chev engine and chev gearbox.

    The way I see it is simple. I could have it going the same speed as it is now, for under $20k, and be 100% bulletproof reliable, and start and idle cold or hot, without the worry of toyota bullshit fucking up every 10mins.
    Or I could spend that $20k on what I have in there, go faster and still not solve anything to do with having a functioning reliable overdrive gearbox.

    Kind of lost to be honest. I'll just thrash the fuck out of it until shit breaks and make a decision now, but an LSX454, 4L80 and all the toyota shit sold makes financial sense.
    Last edited by cracka; 20-06-15 at 10:20 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  5. #695
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    Quote Originally Posted by I'm DJ! View Post
    Good update mate. Pity it didn't make the sketchypip flatbrim day but good to see you about. Gotta go for a run in this.
    Anytime.

    I'll be bringing it home soon so it should be out and about a little more.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  6. #696
    Like, whatever man Monk's Avatar
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    Chin up man. Rage quitting costs money too.

  7. #697
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    Stop thinking.

  8. #698
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10sec rx7 View Post
    Lol you can hook the Guage up to the 0-5v output on the Haltech!!!
    I wanted to touch on this in the pile of haltech shit in my car. The 0-5v output on your can wideband is fucking useless. Oscillates like all fuck, drops out randomly. I've given it multiple power sources, driven it through a capacitor, and had 3 very fucking competent auto electricians scratching their heads. #haltech things.

    The innovate wideband is 100% identical output to the haltech when running on analogue, to my haltech wideband on CAN. Outputs a rock solid analogue 0-5v signal that drives my gauge 100% perfectly with identical readings to the haltech CAN with laptop open. No fucking clue why the haltech is so shit for 3x the price of the "shitty innovate" as you call it.

    Of course this is totally ignoring the error checking and all that cool shit.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  9. #699
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    Maybe if you wired it right it would work.. But no you have probably blown the output up by trying to hook it up and it's just fucked now. If a auto elec can't hook up 2 earths, 12v and a signal wire correctly then they are not very competent.. But hey it's always easier to blame the product not the idiots that fucked it
    im a cunt
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  10. #700
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    It's wired right.

    if you (the dealer) would like me to send you a diagram of how it was wired I would be happy to. I've tried auxilery powering the can unit, as well as running it off the can power only (which works too). The gauge itself is a stepper motor unit that's self powered by it's own supply and needs decimals of a milliamp from the signal wire to function. Only to the haltech instructions. But as I said, it oscillates like a cunt when off the same sensor, or a second sensor in complete isolation the innovate 0-5v output is steady as a rock giving identical readings.

    Measuring the potential across the signal wire on both the innovate and can unit gives the same oscillation as the gauge does as I expected when I first figured the speedhut gauge must be wrong. Ideally id still love to fly you up to tune this thing or drive it down and nut out stuff like this.

    On can, it works perfect as I said. I should of bought a racepak in the first place I realise now obviously, but I'm beyond that now.

    how could it get fried?
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  11. #701
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    Post the diag of how it's wired.. Wired a capacitor to it could well fuck it.. You cannot power the unit from can only so I don't know how you managed to get it to turn on with out opening the case and joining pins on the board together.
    im a cunt
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  12. #702
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    http://www.speedhut.com/instructions..._wide_band.pdf

    Gauge has its own power. I've not measured what it draws from the signal wire, but it would be absolutely insignificant. Zero.

    A haltech CAN wideband box utputs a voltage output on pin8 white wire 100% of the time when it is booted and alive and functioning. If it is powered by CAN, it outputs a voltage. If it is powered with it's own auxilery power source, it outputs a voltage. Go put a multimeter on one of yours and see yourself.

    Step one was connecting nothing but the gauge to my existing gauge harness which powers all the others just fine, takes tacho signal from haltech, I split the digital signal from the ethanol sensor to both the haltech etc...all works mint. So take white pin8 to gauge signal wire. Gauge reads roughly correct, and settles fine with normal steady readings. Any sort of change in O2 and it jumps around retardedly. A steady WOT run and it's reasonably steady. Generally it's just a nuisance moving around nonstop.

    Figure that sucked arse... So I figured the CAN box needed a better power source so it had a seperate/better signal earth. Gave it one, and both power inputs on 12v. Similar result to step one.

    Step 3 was step 2, but with a nifty little diode and tiny capacitor inline to smooth out the signal a little. Then step 3 again was same but without can hub powered itself. Stopped the needle dancing around, but it still had issues obviously with voltage changes from alternator/revs/fuel pumps speeding up.

    Step 4 was the innovate analogue output, using a totally separate sensor in a bung 2 inches from the haltech sensor in the dump pipe. Same power source. Works fuckin mint, signal is identical to the haltech signal on laptop.

    So something in the can hub is missing, either some sort of signal supression, or it just expects whatever analogue device it is giving a signal to have some sort of levelling algorithym or something.

    If I connect an oscilloscope to the haltech output I can see it dancing around like a mofo. If I do so with the innovate it's smooth changes based on o2 reading.

    About the only thing I havn't tried is isolating the can hub from the haltech completely and repeating, but then I wouldnt have the smooth reliable CAN signal and a laptop screen for comparison.Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by cracka; 21-06-15 at 12:42 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  13. #703
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guido View Post
    Stop thinking.
    Meh. I've done the sums. 1UZ is a suckers game.

    LSX or very trick LS3
    4L80E
    GM computer
    GM gearbox computer

    All bolts in with a dellows/crs kit. Minimal fucking about. 9 bolts, a set of headers (lol, off the shelf even) and hit the key. $20k or so give or take. 100% total and unoquivical OEM reliability, 1 hundred more horsepower NA, 1000x better to drive. Easily engineerable, runs any fuel, bulk tunability from awesome stock GM computers and the manners of a stock new commodore.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  14. #704
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    So I read all that shit you just posted but you still haven't followed the instructions. Your missing one key part for it to work correctly..

    im a cunt
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  15. #705
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    Also just so you know the Wbc needs to be powered and earthed all the time, it WILL not work correctly with out it, but it's all in the instructions

    im a cunt
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  16. #706
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    I'm pretty sure it was winter last time cracka slid in to rage quit posts about this car.

    That's intredasting really.

    Just stop playing with it for another month mate... It'll warm up again soon and these emotions will pass.

  17. #707
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    I'm concerned that 3 very competent auto elecs have looked and still can't follow simple instructions
    im a cunt
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  18. #708
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    Or it could just be that Haltech, same as Innovate, has a dud product occasionally and the wideband output is just shit out. I had an LC-1 that had one of the outputs fucked out of the box, 20hrs of headfuck later I swapped the controller out and bam, instant fix. Innovate replaced it immediately, no arguing, after I told 'em what happened.

    Same thing with an AEM controller once, had it refuse to work with any sensor I plugged into it. Swapped it with another and bam, instant worky. Shit happens, even when it's bought from someone who believes it's made of gold.

  19. #709
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    Or it's wired wrong
    Retard Honour Wall.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
    Rob Sloth Young did i ask for your opinion? no. i only want it for a paddock bomb. go play with traffic.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles View Post
    you stupid fucken imbicle.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles
    your are a fucken idiot of the highest level.

  20. #710
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    No they haven't followed the instructions. It will never work correctly when they are not followed. Blaming the product when you can't follow simple instructions generally upsets people.. He starts on the attack. Then says it's wired right and shows his correct wiring which is nothing like what the wiring diag shows.. It's not wired correct get off the attack. Fix the wiring and it will work correctly, you cannot power the device off the can cable, the can cable switches 12v on and off, the unit still needs 12v battery and earth,

    You cannot run a aux guage off the device with out using the sensor earth wire to earth the device, you get voltage offsets, which also comes back to not using the battery earth, to wire it correctly you hook the power and earth to the battery, can cable to ecu, then power the guage from the loom which happens to be labeled "guage" which has a earth in it that is shared between the device and the guage to eliminate the voltage offset issues he is having now. Instructions are there for a reason, generally if you wire things up exactly as they are in the instructions you don't have problems.. But there is always people that know more about a product than the people that make them
    im a cunt
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  21. #711
    cunning linguist lickmyleftone's Avatar
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    So that is why my motor blew up. I have a Haltech. Should have bought a Powerchip
    The World's Best Pest Control in Brisbane, at PF mates rates, PM me.

    when all else fails, hit it harder.

  22. #712
    What's that whooshing? Aaron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10sec rx7 View Post
    No they haven't followed the instructions. It will never work correctly when they are not followed. Blaming the product when you can't follow simple instructions generally upsets people.. He starts on the attack. Then says it's wired right and shows his correct wiring which is nothing like what the wiring diag shows.. It's not wired correct get off the attack. Fix the wiring and it will work correctly, you cannot power the device off the can cable, the can cable switches 12v on and off, the unit still needs 12v battery and earth,
    It's interesting that the Wideband controller wants direct battery connection (power and ground) and is then "switched on" by the CAN signal. It is probably counter intuitive to most auto sparkies who would be wiring it behind a relay controlled by the ECU or at least the IGN switch. And of course when an instruction doesn't make sense they'd never follow the instruction.
    ---
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  23. #713
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    do you think that this drawing dosent make sense? be honest.
    the reason for the direct connection is the heater in the 02 sensor is powered by the battery these can draw up to 6 amps when cold

    Last edited by 10sec rx7; 21-06-15 at 09:41 AM.
    im a cunt
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  24. #714
    What's that whooshing? Aaron's Avatar
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    Drawing makes perfect sense to me. But I'm a dumbo who would take the above diagram and go "if that's what they say then that's what I'll do".

    However, I've met/seen/encountered plenty of people who would go "BATTERY = Switched IGN Power" because they think it'll constantly flatten the battery etc etc
    ---
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  25. #715
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    This is totally not a bandwagon hitching but sometimes its possible to be too clever and spend half your life obsessing about measuring, fiddling and generally fucking around instead of going back to basics and doing something the way the manufacturer wants it done.

    Try it the other way Cracka and see what happens then rage hard if it doesn't work.

    Also, calm down cunt
    Last edited by chartreusehj; 21-06-15 at 02:27 PM.

  26. #716
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    It's wired fine, because it works fine. It's been faultless. It has constant power and is wired fucking EXACTLY as per the manual, by al, and then again and neat ended up by me.

    i think you miss the point. It works, the analogue out is fucking shakey. In digital it's perfect. Flawless.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  27. #717
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    No it's not wired correctly all your wiring have the guage wired seperate to the controller, not one of them is correct, you have not joined signal earth and the earth of the guage.
    I think you miss the point, your rage and blame everyone when your own drawings are incorrect has worn thin on everyone and more people are going to tell you to get fucked..

    How abou next time go hey I got a prob I've wired it like this avd it won't work, got any ideas why it won't work right?

    Then you might get more help., your whole problem is a ground offset issue, if you think it's wired right then so be it and figure it out your self
    im a cunt
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  28. #718
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    I have, the entire loom is connected as per the diagram except the white wire was randomly loose. Because it is unused. Every other wire including a huge power wire and a switched wire is there. It's signal grounded to the same signal ground as the ecu right beside it. I figured it was a given I didn't need to draw the wideband controllers own wires.

    so I wanted a gauge with an idiot light, took white wire to a gauge. Gauge has it's own power so only cares for sensing a voltage, it isn't drawing anything.

    as far as I see the gauge itself might need to share the same signal earth. Easy to test but seems counter intuitive when all the gauges have a common signal earth that's 10cm from the haltech units. (Am auto did the haltechs, auto elec did the body loom, both are 100% isolated so I can change ecu easily just by ripping one loom out, or drive car with no dash etc)

    I'll figure it out and borrow a mates haltech can wb controller to rule mine being faulty out. The innovate controller was just to prove the gauge works mint. I don't see why the gauge would need any more than the single sense wire though (not that it has provision for it, but speedhut can make me a new one if it does).
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  29. #719
    Registered User Gats's Avatar
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    Just buy a Maloo, can even get warranty on it.

  30. #720
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    Mate seriously how hard is it to get it through your head that the guage and signal ground need to be attached, it's on the drawings, the loom is supplied with a guage harness on it for this exact reason. Voltage offsets are the only cause for problems like this.
    im a cunt
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