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Thread: Bought an R34 Sitar today

  1. #751
    Formerly a stupid_cunt fly510's Avatar
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    i spent a fair bit of time talking to the MCA guys at WTAC yesterday about my 34. They were pushing me hard to the reds even though I told them i was keen on golds. My use case is similar to what you guys were mentioning above but with less power.

    what brakes do you have on this thing?
    RB26......................Again

  2. #752
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    the reds are basically a mass produced item whereas the golds are all hand made custom orders. I believe they have basically the same valving in them, so unless you are chasing external reservoir versions for endurance stuff the reds would basically do the same job and a fair bit cheaper.

    brakes are 380mm Alcon CR6380 6 pots on the front and a 350z 350mm rear rotor with the stock 2 piston caliper spaced out. using Carbotech XP10 pads (squeally but great).
    Last edited by burn is weird; 14-10-18 at 06:01 PM.

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  3. #753
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    Have a nice set of pss9s if you want something nice

    If going mca fork out for the golds
    Last edited by fatz; 14-10-18 at 06:16 PM.
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  4. #754
    Formerly a stupid_cunt fly510's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatz View Post
    Have a nice set of pss9s if you want something nice

    If going mca fork out for the golds
    I did consider the bilsteins but think it’ll go with the mcas and give it a bday with a few new bits.

    Quote Originally Posted by burn is weird View Post
    the reds are basically a mass produced item whereas the golds are all hand made custom orders. I believe they have basically the same valving in them, so unless you are chasing external reservoir versions for endurance stuff the reds would basically do the same job and a fair bit cheaper.

    brakes are 380mm Alcon CR6380 6 pots on the front and a 350z 350mm rear rotor with the stock 2 piston caliper spaced out. using Carbotech XP10 pads (squeally but great).
    Alcons nice. Did you manage to find a kit new?

  5. #755
    Registered User clutch-monkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fly510 View Post
    i spent a fair bit of time talking to the MCA guys at WTAC yesterday about my 34. They were pushing me hard to the reds even though I told them i was keen on golds. My use case is similar to what you guys were mentioning above but with less power.

    what brakes do you have on this thing?
    are the reds the mid range ones?
    i had the reds on a near stock e36 M3. loved them. transformed the car.
    i have golds on the FC rally car. also love them. fucking fantastic.
    Quote Originally Posted by Walt Kowalski View Post
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  6. #756
    Formerly a stupid_cunt fly510's Avatar
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    Reds (I believe) are the top of the pile of the mass produced units before moving to fully custom built Murray made golds.

  7. #757
    cunning linguist lickmyleftone's Avatar
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    What sort of $ are the Reds?
    The World's Best Pest Control in Brisbane, at PF mates rates, PM me.

    when all else fails, hit it harder.

  8. #758
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    I'd buy golds solely to avoid interactions with Josh.

  9. #759
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    2900 I think

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  10. #760
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim510 View Post
    I'd buy golds solely to avoid interactions with Josh.

    Lol so true
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  11. #761
    Formerly a stupid_cunt fly510's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by burn is weird View Post
    2900 I think

    Sent from my S61 using Tapatalk
    yep 2900 for reds. cheapest option was $1700 i think. I assume golds are 7k+?
    RB26......................Again

  12. #762
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim510 View Post
    I'd buy golds solely to avoid interactions with Josh.
    +1.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  13. #763
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    Mate, speak to Chris or Brett at Shockworks. You will not be disappointed.

  14. #764
    Registered User the big fist's Avatar
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    I received great service from Josh when buying and after with my reds.
    I did get them years and years ago before MCA was the "cool" option.

  15. #765
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    Went for a long drive last night in the hills, went through a whole tank of e85. Man this is rapid now, Im loving it. The EFR comes on very hard. Using tps boost target certanlinly helps with drivablility.

    The coil overs currently in it are rooted so felt pretty dodgy at speed.. Keen to get the new ones in.. Need to run through the whiteline/superpro catalog while I'm at it.

    Any advice on using the HD rubber vs Poly bushes?
    Last edited by burn is weird; 24-10-18 at 08:58 AM.

  16. #766
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    Anything that moves spherical (if non binding geometry) > hard rubber > poly I think is consensus. Poly is for non moving shit/underground loader bumpers.

  17. #767
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    Avoid spherical at all costs. This isn’t a circuit car. Also lol rattles/uncomfortable/shit falls apart/generally fucked.

    oem rubber ftw.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  18. #768
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    I guess mazda missed your memo when designing the fd?

  19. #769
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    do spherical flog out due to shock loading or due to debris ingress?

    I'd be using dust covers on all the rod ends.

    Oo___oO


  20. #770
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    I think the problem was a lot if people going too small and uncovered and chewing them out quickly. Last 90,000km on an fd with dust boots.

  21. #771
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    this kit is for the rear hub suspension attachments, converts it all to bearings.

    https://www.hardracesuspension.com.a...33-34-gtr.html

    so this is all the links I've got at present:

    Front
    upper arm - spherical inner - rubber bush outer
    tension rod - spherical mount inner - solid bolted to lower arm outer
    lower arm - ball joint inner and outer
    shock - spherical lower and upper
    steering - ball joint tie rod


    Rear:
    Upper arm - spherical inner - rubber bush outer
    lower arm - rubber bush inner- ball joint outer
    traction rod - spherical inner - rubber outer
    shock - - spherical upper - rubber lower
    HICAS - ball joint outer (may remove and soild mount but unsure pro/cons)
    Reinforced Diff mounts

    looks like I only need to replace the rear hub mount bushings, rear upper outer and rear lower inner to have it all sorted. might as well do the lot while I put the shocks in.

    my only other concern is shock loading the driveline with no "give". the only remaining stock part is the rear subframe bushes, which would be an absolute fuckaround to change over to nismo ones (drop the whole subframe out)
    Last edited by burn is weird; 26-10-18 at 09:05 AM.

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  22. #772
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    I changed the supreme bushes to noltec so you need to pull the whole frame. It is shit but not that bad. Just hole saw them out and then die grind out the casing
    3D scanning
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  23. #773
    Presence > Performance JGTC's Avatar
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    Worth speaking to Murray to advise him what changes you are making arm/bush wise as he will be able to better set up your shocks to work with that set up.

    Josh's series of shocks are generally developed on cars with stock bushes/arms/swaybars.

  24. #774
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLAYA View Post
    I changed the supreme bushes to noltec so you need to pull the whole frame. It is shit but not that bad. Just hole saw them out and then die grind out the casing
    How much louder did road and drive line sound get?

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  25. #775
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slides View Post
    I guess mazda missed your memo when designing the fd?
    I must have.

    I've had very poor experiences with them.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  26. #776
    on hoes? yohoes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGTC View Post
    Worth speaking to Murray to advise him what changes you are making arm/bush wise as he will be able to better set up your shocks to work with that set up.

    Josh's series of shocks are generally developed on cars with stock bushes/arms/swaybars.
    Lol

    I wonder how many R-chassis or S-chassis Nissans have stock arms / bushes / swaybars that would also run MCA coilys

    I'm guessing none

  27. #777
    Presence > Performance JGTC's Avatar
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    yeh its interesting when i asked them what they would suggest to compliment the coilovers bush/swaybar wise, Josh said their coils paired best with standard size swaybars.

  28. #778
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    on a track I'd agree with that. stiffer springs are better here, and you use the swaybars to dial in under/oversteer so they can be softer.

    on the road where you need more compliance (softer shock springs) you have to run stiffer sway bars to compensate for the additional roll the soft springs will allow.

    a good example is the V8 supercars on a proper race circuit vs running at the GC600. i'd imagine they run very stiff springs at a circuit with light bars, and the other way around at a bumpy street circuit.

    Oo___oO


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