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Thread: Bought an R34 Sitar today

  1. #721
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    Plugs are so clean on ethanol (front row obviously). this was after all the high boost pulls.

    Last edited by burn is weird; 09-10-18 at 11:19 AM.

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  2. #722
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    What heat range are they? Usually only see tips like that on high boost rotaries.

  3. #723
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    they're a denso platinum Iridium race plug. code is IK-01, heat range 24, which is an NGK heat range 8 equivalent. NGK also make them under code R7434-8

    they're hilariously expensive anywhere outside of japan ($99 each from supercheap website!!) but you can get them on sale on RHD japan for $25 a plug which is as cheap as you'd ever find them, and I cashed in some points from previous purchases also.

    They last forever and spark very easily due to small tip. gap is pre-set at 0.7mm. cost is high as the rectangular prism shaped ground strap is solid platinum for some reason.

    met a guy with a 450kw circuit car that is nearing his 3rd season on the same plugs so that was good enough for me.
    Last edited by burn is weird; 10-10-18 at 01:01 PM.

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  4. #724
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    Yeah all the big power rotaries are using R7420s between 10.5 and 11 heat range. It's amazing how many retards will argue against basic electric field theory for using fat copper plugs on tuning pages.

  5. #725
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    I dont really understand the love of copper other than price. my favorite reason people come up with is copper is a better conductor.... when they're talking about a nickel tipped resistor type spark plug.. in a secondary coil with huge voltage and bugger all current, and all plugs have copper cores with different exposed electrode materials. these ones are recessed and a very short ground strap which are both good things for arduous cylinder conditions.

    a set of these plugs at will last for years still only costs what 10l of oil and a filter cost.
    Last edited by burn is weird; 10-10-18 at 05:33 PM.

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  6. #726
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    also overlayed my flow/pressure data onto the 8374 comp map. turbo speeds now line up perfectly. I remember trying this a few months ago and being off by about 8k rpm from where i should be due to leaking BOVs (turns out i was right there). I woud expect the pressure ratio to be a smidge higher in the real world due to air filter and intercooler pressure losses. but the mass flow should be bang on as the ECU is calculating based on IAT which is in the 20-30 degree range so very little correction would be applied as the borg map x axis is corrected flow to NTP (20c/101.3kPa)

    but you can see the 8374 is totally tapped out here.



    for shits and giggles, here is the 9174/9180 map instead.. lots of headroom here! this would make close to 600kw on my engine extrapolating my results.

    Last edited by burn is weird; 10-10-18 at 05:50 PM.

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  7. #727
    cunning linguist lickmyleftone's Avatar
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    Do you have an engine brace fitted?

    N1 Block or standard?
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  8. #728
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    Nah they weren't really a thing when my motor went together, kinda wish I did as I have an 05u block and I'm starting to like this horsepower stuff!

    Not sure if it's outright power that cracks them or drag launches causing the front diff to stress the block, but it seems like a lot of drag lovers that move to LSD front diffs (with the added traction that provides) have problems and I've got a quaife in there.


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  9. #729
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    ETA till club day?
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  10. #730
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    club day?

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  11. #731
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    If that seal is 2JZ GT's let's do it
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  12. #732
    Registered User RNS-11Z's Avatar
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    Let us know if your taking it out to any event, il bring the little evo

  13. #733
    cunning linguist lickmyleftone's Avatar
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    Ahhh yes. The little black evo that could.

    It got past me last time when I had 535 hp.
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  14. #734
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    Haha my last car was an Evo 8 so I certainly enjoy looking at the back of them.

    Having some axle tramping in the rear at full beans, will bleed the xfer case to see if it's the tyres turning or a diff/subframe/suspension bush related issue. Does it ever end! Have a set of MCA golds going up to Murray for a revalve so will see what's what.

    Am certainly up for some roll racing, need a bit of time behind the wheel before going side by side with another car. I've been driving a LandCruiser for the last 12 months so the GTR feels... Different.
    Last edited by burn is weird; 12-10-18 at 06:54 AM.

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  15. #735
    Pack & SEND IT JGTC's Avatar
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    Sugoi on the murray golds, any details on specs and valving set up are you chasing? I have the lesser reds valved for tarmac rally with damping turned down a bit for street and I am a big fan. Would love to go a set of golds in the future i can hold on to the car.

  16. #736
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGTC View Post
    Sugoi on the murray golds, any details on specs and valving set up are you chasing? I have the lesser reds valved for tarmac rally with damping turned down a bit for street and I am a big fan. Would love to go a set of golds in the future i can hold on to the car.
    I will discuss with him further when I drop them off but I'm chasing tarmac rally kind of setup as well, as it may translate to tolerable street manners as you have said.

    He recommends a much larger F/R split than the Japanese gear comes with, but obviously he's the Oracle so I'll just nod in agreeance.

    I like the car to have a small amount of push as I find an AWD car is generally quite sudden in oversteer and I'm not as fast. The Quaife really helps pull it around in the corner and straighten so the setup may be slightly different to that of an open front diff car. being able to balance between push/slide with the throttle is important but will see what he thinks.

    What spring rates do you have in yours? I'm guessing something like 12/5.5? How do you find it and is it still streetable?

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    Last edited by burn is weird; 12-10-18 at 08:44 AM.

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  17. #737
    Pack & SEND IT JGTC's Avatar
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    When i was going back and forth with Josh who deals with everything under the gold series. based on my tyre choice and intended usage of the car we ended up with tarmac rally/hillclimb spec valving and 12F/5R spring rates. I remember he mentioned one of the reasons for the large range between F & R is that GTRs generally have close to a 60F/40R weight split. At the time i also opted for a 2nd set of springs 14F/10R for if my circumstances changed and was tracking the car more on circuit (still suited to AD08/RS3 spec tyres)

    Spec of car/tyres: all stock bushes/arms/links etc with AD08/RS3 street tyres

    Primary usage of the car: I was chasing a performance orientated setup to suit hillclimb type surfaces ie. national parks/mtn roads

    Feedback from Josh

    So we'd be going with with a Red Series setup, valving wise I'm thinking a near circuit setup on the front to help with the support of the car, but a bit softer in the rear to help with the ride quality and bump handling.

    Spring rates of 12kg front and 5kg rear, along with another pair of 14kg front and 10kg rear assuming you wont be on a tyre like Hankook Z221 or Advan A050 for the track.. if you are, we could go 15/11.

    Spring rate wise I'm thinking 12kg front and 5kg rear would be a good middle ground.. but something like 11kg front and 4kg rear would be nicer and more compliant as a daily driver and should still perform quite well.. just won't have quite the sharpness and stability of the 12/5 setup.

    To put it all in perspective.. a normal street setup would be 10kg front and 3.5kg rear. A track setup would be 14kg front and 11kg rear.
    Last edited by JGTC; 12-10-18 at 09:26 AM.

  18. #738
    Pack & SEND IT JGTC's Avatar
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    Because i street drive the car around town way more than i cain it in the hills, i've turned down the dampers 2-3 notches (working down 1 at a time, driving for a few weeks and then deciding if still too firm/jarring on the street) for a more supple ride around town.

    For reference the original settings were still a world of difference compared to the original M-Spec shocks/springs, i experienced a much rougher ride, being shook out of my seat just driving around town.

  19. #739
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    yea the Golds are off Matt Longhursts time attack car, so currently VERY stiffly sprung for aero loads. he's upgraded his to a pretty serious supashock setup.

    I've got a very similar use case to you, but I'm seeing the car getting less and less streetable. 500kw is getting a bit much for a public road. maybe I'm getting old.

    Being flex means I can pour in 98 and make 360 or so kw for a bit of fun and throw Ethanol in and the ECU goes into 'send it' mode.
    Last edited by burn is weird; 12-10-18 at 04:02 PM.

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  20. #740
    cunning linguist lickmyleftone's Avatar
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    Good. It's not just me feeling old. 500 plus is silly. Actually it's dangerous, too easily.
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  21. #741
    Super Moderator Morgs's Avatar
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    Outstanding... would be heap of fun to drive!
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  22. #742
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    yea really excited to drive it hard....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    whoever is doing the raindance, could you STOP PLEASE.

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  23. #743
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    400twkw is the happy place for a non explody gtr ( at the track)

    Go nuts for little bursts on the street or drag racing
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  24. #744
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    I hear ya fatz. I've got every protection under the sun active in the ecu (limp mode, warning light and buzzer are triggered by: oil P and T/fuel P and T/coolant P and T/sustained knock/lambda target error/boost target error/voltage/individual EGT drift), but still a lot of mechanical things to break.
    Last edited by burn is weird; 12-10-18 at 04:30 PM.

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  25. #745
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGTC View Post
    Because i street drive the car around town way more than i cain it in the hills, i've turned down the dampers 2-3 notches (working down 1 at a time, driving for a few weeks and then deciding if still too firm/jarring on the street) for a more supple ride around town.

    For reference the original settings were still a world of difference compared to the original M-Spec shocks/springs, i experienced a much rougher ride, being shook out of my seat just driving around town.
    wait are you saying the M-spec suspension was much rougher than the reds?

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  26. #746
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    If Murray is setting them up for you and you are telling him what the car will be used for and where it will be driven you will be very very happy with the result.

    May have to soften the springs a little, depending on what the original set up was, but they will give you a magic carpet ride....

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  27. #747
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Strain gauge on block and rods should just about do it
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  28. #748
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    That’s who got the golds

    Tried to buy that shit

    Dam
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  29. #749
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ burn is weird's Avatar
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    yea well you beat me to his EFR so we'll call that square. hah

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  30. #750
    Pack & SEND IT JGTC's Avatar
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    Yep, the Nissan M-Spec dampers were horrid, i found them hugely jarring at speed-limit speeds on anything other than smooth roads, i would be constantly ejected out of my seat, extremely harsh.

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