Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 31 to 60 of 62

Thread: best cheapest way to cut steel tube/rhs/etc

  1. #31
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Posts
    1,097
    I picked up one of the TradeTools dry metal saws this week, boy it eats through steel. Have found 2 problems so far though:
    1. If you just swivel the guide to 45 degrees it won't cut all the way though, you have to bolt on the supplied spacer
    2. If you're just taking a small amount off (eg 20mm) it can become a serious projectile when it falls back towards the blade. Happened twice when we were testing at 45 degrees and the 40 SHS offcut was flung 15-20m.

    Otherwise it's mint, you can handle the pieces straight away and the finish is good enough to immediately weld.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC_1308.JPG 
Views:	45 
Size:	1.57 MB 
ID:	93115  
    Last edited by neil_se; 19-06-16 at 02:56 PM.

  2. #32
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Wrong.
    Posts
    6,929
    Yep I'm loving mine.

    If you set the material right so it's cutting on the front bottom 60 degrees or so it doesn't flick the material to god knows where when doing a tiny edge. I cut some credit card sized bits of 50mm box to show the old man as he didn't believe it could. Need to make a stand for it though so the fucker doesn't live on the floor.

    Metal cuttings tray seems to catch maybe 50% of the swarf. Beats the living fuck out of the dust everywhere from an abrasive.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  3. #33
    Registered User [RX3]'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    977
    Anyone have any feedback with something like this?

    http://www.totaltools.com.au/saber-m...b115/i1097207/

    Looking to cut stainless and alum tube.

  4. #34
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Sydney ,Australia
    Posts
    801
    They are ok, pretty flimsy though. If you arent looking for perfect cuts, it will be fine.

  5. #35
    Registered User [RX3]'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    977
    Hare and Forbes ones any better? (entry level type)

    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Horizontal-Bandsaws

    Mainly for 1.25" to 1.5" stainless, maybe 3" aluminium and possibly also 4" stainless.

  6. #36
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Sydney ,Australia
    Posts
    801
    I had the hard and forbes one. Was ok but i wanted something more sturdy etc and upgraded to a larger machine.

    The small one is slow and the cuts arent always perfect.

  7. #37
    \/ \/ My motivation \/ \/ ALLMTR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Newcastle-ish
    Posts
    22,979
    I had the bs4a and gave it away. The blade seemed to wander a bit no matter how much I fiddled with it. Give me a cordless angle grinder and a 1mm disc any day
    1jz Rolla Van ....... 10.5 at 134mph

    "Reacher figured if he could put that drivetrain in some battered old sedan body, then that would be his kind of car"

    .

  8. #38
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    296
    I run a 9 inch grinder blade in a bunnings mitre saw designed for wood. Works a treat, much nicer than the cheapo drop saws.

  9. #39
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    5,624
    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy View Post
    I run a 9 inch grinder blade in a bunnings mitre saw designed for wood. Works a treat, much nicer than the cheapo drop saws.
    Was looking at circular saw blades (for wood) at masters the other day, noticed they had blades for cutting ferrous metal, would be worth a try in a mitre/drop saw. Think the size I was looking at was a hundred or so, 10 inch probably. Do you clamp it or just hold it? Plenty of ways to do that I suppose.

  10. #40
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Radelaide
    Posts
    4,984
    I would definitely be clamping it.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

    Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

    75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

  11. #41
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    296
    I clamp it. The wood saws at bunnings for some reason are so much nicer than the metal drop saws. A proper casr aluminium base rather than shitty stamped steel. If you set it at 45deg it actually cuts pretty close to 45deg.

  12. #42
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Radelaide
    Posts
    4,984
    Do the blades bolt straight on?

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

    Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

    75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

  13. #43
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    296
    Nah i had to machine a spacer. 16mm id 20mm od by 2.4mm iirc. But i just used the saw i already had. Others might bolt straight on.

  14. #44
    loves the Cressy
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Gympie Australia
    Posts
    2,444
    Quote Originally Posted by da9jeff View Post
    Do the blades bolt straight on?

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy View Post
    Nah i had to machine a spacer. 16mm id 20mm od by 2.4mm iirc. But i just used the saw i already had. Others might bolt straight on.
    Or, you can just buy an arbor adaptor from most decent hardware stores, does what the thing you machined does, for fairly cheap.
    Cheers, Richard

    MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25) BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
    '92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
    MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
    '66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
    '66 Jaguar S-Type 3.8 Auto Sedan
    - Long Term Jobs

  15. #45
    This space left blank Ben Wilson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    3,549
    Watch the speeds, the wood saws generally run a lot faster than the metal blades like.
    Imagination is more important than knowledge.

  16. #46
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Devonport, Tasmania Australia
    Posts
    2,147
    Quote Originally Posted by neil_se View Post
    I picked up one of the TradeTools dry metal saws this week, boy it eats through steel. Have found 2 problems so far though:
    1. If you just swivel the guide to 45 degrees it won't cut all the way though, you have to bolt on the supplied spacer
    2. If you're just taking a small amount off (eg 20mm) it can become a serious projectile when it falls back towards the blade. Happened twice when we were testing at 45 degrees and the 40 SHS offcut was flung 15-20m.

    Otherwise it's mint, you can handle the pieces straight away and the finish is good enough to immediately weld.
    hey guys. trying to get my head around this one so bear with me

    im getting half decent cuts with my drop saw, but not amazing repeatabilty. So was looking at something like the above. am i right in thinking i can simply replace the blade in my current drop saw and get similar results? i measure all my own angle marks rather than use the stamped ones...

    also can the dry cut blades be used on tube and pipe? only examples i have seen are using rhs?

    cheers and sorry for the dumb questions lol
    RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
    06/07/2011

    http://www.performanceforums.com/for...#post842594902 - making little toys for the big boys

  17. #47
    Registered User [RX3]'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    977
    I noticed these today at Trade Tools,

    http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/lenox-metalmax.aspx

    About $135 for a 136mm blade, max RPM was around 4,300.

    Might be a cheaper alternative to use a Ozito brand drop saw with one of these blades but despite what the packaging says, I unsure how the speed will go on some metals.

  18. #48
    Registered User Dimi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,586
    Quote Originally Posted by [RX3] View Post
    I noticed these today at Trade Tools,

    http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/lenox-metalmax.aspx

    About $135 for a 136mm blade, max RPM was around 4,300.

    Might be a cheaper alternative to use a Ozito brand drop saw with one of these blades but despite what the packaging says, I unsure how the speed will go on some metals.

    Just a heads up, i bought an ozito saw as a shitter for when i have to go build stuff on site. Regardless of any amount if adjustment the cuntofa thing will not cut square. the head actually flexes in relation to the base plate as you press downwards on it. OK for chopping RHS to roughly fit making fences, gates, tables where you can mig it and who cares. Not so good for manifolds.

  19. #49
    Registered User [RX3]'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    977
    haha, I have one and use it for some stainless pipe. Seems okay but I always over cut so I can get it flat on the linisher, by the time I add a little bevel it's quite square. Just a pain having to rotate the pipe 3 times to get a nice clean cut.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20161007_131954.jpg 
Views:	24 
Size:	1.57 MB 
ID:	95590
    Last edited by [RX3]; 12-10-16 at 05:16 PM.

  20. #50
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Melb
    Posts
    74
    For the guys with the trade tools saws... How have you found the performance cutting stainless tube? The blades are pretty expensive https://www.tradetools.com/product-r...r-steel-drc355

  21. #51
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Wrong.
    Posts
    6,929
    No problem cutting up a bunch of stainless on mine for a mate.

    But I used a bit of wax, and a water/metho mix sprayed on the blade while cutting. Means you need to wipe and clean it later but thats easier than me chipping a tooth.

    There's other blades cheaper, $80 from sharpening shop for one as a spare hanging on the wall if I need. Sadly it's been months since I've been home to use mine
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  22. #52
    Suspended
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    mebourne
    Posts
    3,898
    I've got a dry saw cutter the blades are awesome. Ive had the same blade and years and I've cut through so much shit very suprised.

  23. #53
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Devonport, Tasmania Australia
    Posts
    2,147
    righto lads. i have tried to buy the trade tools dry cut above. but the guys want near 300 in shipping. i asked if they could check seeing as i got a gearbox shipped from their last year for 85 and ego only wants 75... but i was kindly told to go play with myself thats what freight costs.

    so ebay it is

    does anyone have any feedback advice on this bad boy???

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Steelmax-...25.m3641.l6368

    cheers gents
    RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
    06/07/2011

    http://www.performanceforums.com/for...#post842594902 - making little toys for the big boys

  24. #54
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Devonport, Tasmania Australia
    Posts
    2,147
    and is this better enough to justify the 200 price difference?

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355-mm-dr...QAAOSwFdtXxhCw
    RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
    06/07/2011

    http://www.performanceforums.com/for...#post842594902 - making little toys for the big boys

  25. #55
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Radelaide
    Posts
    4,984
    Whats the current hot shit in cold saws under 1k? The trade tools one cracka has is nla, adelaide tools has the evolution rage 2 for $500, sydney tools has the bayer something 2400w 355mm thing for $450 shipped. Then theres bosch and makita for 700ish and dewalt for 850. Dewalt looked fancy but is still a pressed base whereas the bayer chinesy deal has a milled alloy base...

    All I want is less shit flying around the shed and square cuts.

    Cheers!

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

    Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

    75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

  26. #56
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Devonport, Tasmania Australia
    Posts
    2,147
    Just had a quick look on eBay qnd the rage saw looks very similar to the eBay spec saw I got a while back... It's cheaper than the one I got and the base looks like pressed Steel not cast alloy like mine, but the saw looks the same and the clamps etc...

    I have only used mine a few times but absolutely fucking love the cunt. It's fucking amazing for what it is.... But I can't seem to find it online right now... :/

    Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
    RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
    06/07/2011

    http://www.performanceforums.com/for...#post842594902 - making little toys for the big boys

  27. #57
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Radelaide
    Posts
    4,984
    Look up the bayer at sydney tools, might be the same unit.

    Annoying that the tradetools one is nla because it looks to be the best of the no name ones.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    Last edited by da9jeff; 29-10-17 at 10:33 PM.
    Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

    Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

    75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

  28. #58
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Wrong.
    Posts
    6,929
    Quote Originally Posted by da9jeff View Post
    Whats the current hot shit in cold saws under 1k? The trade tools one cracka has is nla, adelaide tools has the evolution rage 2 for $500, sydney tools has the bayer something 2400w 355mm thing for $450 shipped. Then theres bosch and makita for 700ish and dewalt for 850. Dewalt looked fancy but is still a pressed base whereas the bayer chinesy deal has a milled alloy base...

    All I want is less shit flying around the shed and square cuts.

    Cheers!

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    ttade tools told me they had 26 on order, so maybe not nla?
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoggett View Post
    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

  29. #59
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Radelaide
    Posts
    4,984
    I just went off the website.

    Is it just me or is it hard to find people to take my money in exchange for goods? Like 90% of the time the exact thing I want is on back order by 50 units or some shit. Then I look on US forums and they have 20 other options all cheaper and better (usually the case with tools). I really hope Amazon will stock proper tools, I'm over hunting shit down.
    Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

    Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

    75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

  30. #60
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    14,713
    Quote Originally Posted by Roadsailing View Post
    yeah i'm not seeing it either, reckon the way to cut bends is on a vertical bandsaw with some kind of slider on it one clamps the bend to. half the reason I want to cut better is to allow me to do lobster bends, which doesn't require any bends. although bends don;t cost much more than straight tube anyway...
    Missed this last time round - knock up a bit of 3/4" ply with a Ubolt through it for holding the tube (add spacer on back for clearance on nuts). Add stopper block with batten screw if needed. When it's got too many holes in it, go for a new piece of ply.

    Hey Cracka - reckon that saw of yours will cut 6061 in 4" round bar?
    Last edited by Gammaboy; 01-11-17 at 11:12 AM.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •