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Thread: ECU Tunes and Installs

  1. #571
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    The triggering in the Adaptronic is automatic, and fixing a threshold voltage due to noise is only masking the problem. Yes it does work sometimes, but it only takes a handful or shitty events at the wrong time to chip corners off a piston.

    Also, RPM is only a function of one of the CAS' so the other can be spazzing out and the ECU logs fine.

    In this order, report back your findings
    1) CAS shield resistance to ground with ECU plugged in
    2) CAS shield resistance to ground with ECU unplugged
    3) location of CAS shield ground, it should not be sensor ground, but just a regular lug to the chassis
    4) has some spastic grounded it at both ends
    5) is the CAS shield continuous through plugs/harness
    6) repeat steps 1:5 for the cas 0 VDC, ensuring it is to sensor ground and open circuit to ground when the ECU is unplugged

    Then it might be time to get a scope out and check inj/ign angles and duration.
    Jason Broadhurst

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  2. #572
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Broadhurst View Post
    The triggering in the Adaptronic is automatic, and fixing a threshold voltage due to noise is only masking the problem. Yes it does work sometimes, but it only takes a handful or shitty events at the wrong time to chip corners off a piston.
    So why does every other ecu allow users to map the trigger voltages?
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  3. #573
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Even the M series does that now, it's not a bad option to have. But wouldn't you rather clean triggering?
    Jason Broadhurst

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  4. #574
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
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    hey jason - do you know what the injector offset does on the triggering page? ive always had it set to zero but just noticed the tuner had it changed to 3. would i be correct in assuming it changes which injector fires first in the sequence? if so, then why TF would he have changed it?

  5. #575
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Broadhurst View Post
    Even the M series does that now, it's not a bad option to have. But wouldn't you rather clean triggering?
    Unfortunatly that perfect world of clean triggering dosent exist
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  6. #576
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trdee View Post
    hey jason - do you know what the injector offset does on the triggering page? ive always had it set to zero but just noticed the tuner had it changed to 3. would i be correct in assuming it changes which injector fires first in the sequence? if so, then why TF would he have changed it?
    Yeah, it's the 1342, 3421, 4213, 2134 injection order. It's based on the cylinder to fire after the CAS 2 reset signal. It will not be causing your issue. If you want to be sure, switch it to batched for a test run.

    Is it the 24+1+1? Are you using both CAS resets?
    Jason Broadhurst

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  7. #577
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
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    ECU Tunes and Installs

    Yeah 24 +1+1 Yes I'm using both cas resets. Injectors and coils are both set to full sequential.

    Bumped the fuel pressure back up to 43psi last night and undid any changes to the tune. Will see if the fouling issue now goes away. Hopefully it does otherwise it's not related haha


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  8. #578
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
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    So after increasing the fuel pressure back to the previous setting of 43psi it instantly stopped fouling plugs! Pretty sure it's those injector spacers now. Going to get the manifold modified to try and have the injectors able to sit there without spacers. Probably also explains the very inconsistent afrs I've had between when the engine is just "warm" and when it is properly heat soaked. The afrs change massively from one condition to the other. If I am having fuel condensing on the walls of the spacers then that dynamic will surely change as the manifold gets heat soaked and the fuel gets hot etc


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  9. #579
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    Probably not the place to ask but does anyone have a link to spare correct pins for the plug on the haltech plugs? And what crimper I should be using?

    Just looking to clean up my harness
    Last edited by Skippy; 13-07-17 at 08:45 PM.

  10. #580
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    http://broadtune.com.au/ecu-pins-and...-part-numbers/

    My website has an increasing list of plugs and pins.

    Ebay sell JST crimps and they are around about $80 for a OK set. This thread a few pages back has a post from me with some pictures of mine.
    Jason Broadhurst

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  11. #581
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    Thanks Jason that helps heaps.
    Any thoughts on decent small crimps to lengthen wires that you can heatshrink over?

  12. #582
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    They are called open open butt splice's

    Various exist, I use plenty in my day to day. It's how OEM's join cable.
    Jason Broadhurst

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  13. #583
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Jason Broadhurst

    Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

  14. #584
    THE CISCO KID ROBAPHENT's Avatar
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    So who is going to make the big list of ECU compares? i'm thinking about changing the SM4/500r combo for something else.
    CISCOKIDS
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  15. #585
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Ask who your selected tuner prefers, and tell them the features you want/need.

    SM4 is about 40 years old, so it's pretty low on most peoples lists now days.
    Jason Broadhurst

    Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

  16. #586
    THE CISCO KID ROBAPHENT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Broadhurst View Post
    Ask who your selected tuner prefers, and tell them the features you want/need.

    SM4 is about 40 years old, so it's pretty low on most peoples lists now days.
    Dam, not bad for a 40 year old ECU that can do fly by wire. must of been ahead of its game.... :P the only issue is inputs/outputs really it does everything else with no issues my tuner is autronic guru. so i would find a new turner but knowing me i will just stay with the sm4 and just deal with not having all the input/outputs
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  17. #587
    Registered User E-Z's Avatar
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    Jason, what's the jewest way to trigger a 7th injector on a v6? Hobbs switch and pulse from existing injectors?
    caprice nugget.

  18. #588
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    Got a spare digital output?

    What ecu?

  19. #589
    . crack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-Z View Post
    Jason, what's the jewest way to trigger a 7th injector on a v6? Hobbs switch and pulse from existing injectors?
    assuming you don't have an aftermarket ecu, then IMO the options are in order of tune-ability:
    1. very cheap second hand aftermarket ecu and use that for the extra injector / errything
    2. duty cycle switching with this: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2471/article.html
    3. on/off switching with a pressure switch (if boosted) or this: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article...witch&A=113008 (e.g. monitoring TPS)

  20. #590
    Registered User E-Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crack View Post
    assuming you don't have an aftermarket ecu, then IMO the options are in order of tune-ability:
    1. very cheap second hand aftermarket ecu and use that for the extra injector / errything
    2. duty cycle switching with this: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2471/article.html
    3. on/off switching with a pressure switch (if boosted) or this: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article...witch&A=113008 (e.g. monitoring TPS)
    yes jerry rigging a stock h25a for beach woosh rooster tails
    thankyou. piggyness doesnt matter as long as its somewhat durable.
    caprice nugget.

  21. #591
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    Boost switch, pressurised tank and air atomiser pre-turbo? Can mix your choice of alcohol(s) and water for power and temp control?

    Off the shelf complete kits for $400 iirc.
    Last edited by Slides; 20-07-17 at 11:58 AM.

  22. #592
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    I assume it's because of turbo and no ECU?

    Adjustable FPR will do most of what you want, plus -5/10 degrees base timing. It's rough but works just fine.
    Jason Broadhurst

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  23. #593
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
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    Helping out a friend last night. He has a haltech elite on a 2GRFE in an SW20 MR2 race car. The thing wouldn't fire and he suspected the timing and wanted to stick a timing light on it when cranking. I noticed that the timing light was flashing only intermittently so got him to log some data.



    Now, I don't really know haltechs very well, and I don't know the elites at all, but from what I could tell the rpm trace looks fine so I assume the crank trigger is working. However the "trigger synchronization" seems to be doing funny things, and i noticed that the "trigger system errors" trace seems to follow the points where the timing light stopped flashing, the trigger tooth count also is more jittery than i would have assumed it should be, but again I dont have a frame of reference with these ecus.

    Would the trace above possibly indicate that the cam reset isn't working properly?

    Also full disclosure, the wiring on this car is aids. I've told him he probably needs to pull it apart and start again




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  24. #594
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    TARDEE (LOL)

    If you go to the pull-down menu View -> Load Page and then load "diagnostics" it will show you the real time trigger count registers within the ECU.

    RPM is calculated (for display) off of only one of the triggers, so it isn't really a reliable source of diagnostics to just witness ESP showing/logging RPM.

    Being toyota, it likely has the 24+1 or 24+2 system for CAS along with reluctor sensors yeah? If so, may I suggest investigating the triggering threshold settings, and setting them to similar voltages as found here within the bottom right table on sheet 2 (MOTEC triggering settings

    That could be a factory Haltech loom. They solder the sensor earth during construction in the factory. Less than ideal, but we shouldn't start the whole solder vs crimp debate (because I solder on occasions HAH)
    Jason Broadhurst

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  25. #595
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
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    thank you mr butthurts :P next time im over there ill check out the diags tab

    i believe the engine runs separate crank trigger and cam sensors? will look into it

    and yeah im not even talking about the earth, more the mess of wires cut and joined randomly, and what looks like exposed power wires etc

  26. #596
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    The triggers should increment in multiples of 24, then reset to zero. if they are going above 24, you have a home problem. If they are going below, you have a ref problem.
    Home being the cam reset per 2 revolutions
    Ref bring the 12 tooth wheel on crank, counting twice per home reset.
    Jason Broadhurst

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  27. #597
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trdee View Post
    and yeah im not even talking about the earth, more the mess of wires cut and joined randomly, and what looks like exposed power wires etc
    Get some tape on that stat

    24+1 references the ref counts per home counts (24 pulses from crank and then 1 pulse from cam).
    Jason Broadhurst

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  28. #598
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    That engine doesn't have 24+1. Try 36-2 for crank and 3 equal spaced falling edges for each cam.

  29. #599
    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    Yep 36-2 crank and 3 on cams. Reluctor on crank and some have reluctor cam and some hall on cam. Is it quad VVTi or dual?
    David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

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  30. #600
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
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    i didnt look too closely but i seem to remember seeing what looked like two vvt solenoids on each cylinder head

    thanks for all the tips gents. will do some further digging next time oldmate wants to look at it again

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