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Thread: '93 S10 Parts Hauler

  1. #1
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    '93 S10 Parts Hauler

    Working on a new engine for my old tired pickup truck. It's a 91 longbed S10. I hate how the old iron-headed engine leaks oil out of the valve covers constantly and the A/C compressor is in a shit location and it's a shit compressor anyway. I would like it if the A/C worked in this junker, too.

    Started with a 190K 2.8L V6 engine...managed to spin up a dynojet at the local fun day to 63HP. Has bad lifter noise and struggles to make 70MPH on any incline. Still makes 28-30MPG at 55MPH, though!

    Plucked a 3.4L Camaro V6 engine from the parts yard, 150$. Had a scored crank, and worn out cam bearings. Cylinder bores are pristine...suspect badly done crank swap at some point. Block checks out perfectly acceptable for barrel, taper, and wear. The 3.4L block is externally identical, and uses exactly the same heads and intake as the 2.8L engine. I'll need to change the oil pan, but the accessory drive should work fine in the truck.

    Chucked out the 3.4L iron heads, as they don't move much air. Pulled a complete top end from a 2006 Impala 3500 engine, same family but now I've got aluminum heads/intake, bigger valves, better ports, and most importantly they fix the intake manifold gasket leaks that plagued the earlier engines with water-in-oil issues. Cheapest alloy head swap I've run into...144$ for the heads, lower and upper intake, fuel rails, and injectors.

    The engine is 3.307" stroke, 3.622" bore, 9.1:1 to 9.5:1 compression ratio. Will trim with gasket/piston dish.

    Headers for the alloy heads all start at 1 5/8", and the flanges I have are sized for that size tubing, however all the math points to a much smaller header primary. Also, header length math is putting things at 38-45", which isn't going to package well.

    Here's the flow numbers, valve sizes, other info on the heads. Flow is in CFM measured at 28" of water.

    Lift Intake Exhaust
    0.050 34.5 27.7
    0.100 65.9 57.8
    0.150 95.4 89.3
    0.200 126.3 105.5
    0.250 157.6 125.1
    0.300 183.9 143.7
    0.350 200.7 157.7
    0.400 210.1 165.5
    0.450 214.2 171.4
    0.500 218.1 175.2

    Intake valve is 1.76", and exhaust valve is 1.42" diameter. Rockers are roller-trunnion, flat-tip, 1.5:1 ratio. EDIT-Later found out these are 1.6 rockers, awesome!

    Engine won't be revved hard, 6000RPM would be maximum engine speed. Target engine rev range is 1500-4500RPM.

    I am thinking a cam in the 208-210* range at 0.050" lift, 260-270* degrees seat-to-seat, on an 0.842 hydraulic flat tappet lifter. Will probably go with a Delta regrind, just not going to drop 800$ on a cam from the few tuning shops that do this engine. Will have to be a regrind as the computer wants a specific lobe on the cam for the sequential fuel injection. Computer is tunable now, so no worries about tuning.

    Engine MAY get an M62 blower at some point-I need to find the correct case to start modifying (all I have on hand are M90 cases). Looking at cams on a 112 LSA so as to stay somewhat blower friendly later.

    If anyone here has opinions on the cam profile and header dimensions that'd be helpful. I'm working with a limited parts budget here, but the iron manifolds off the car won't fit in the truck at all, so headers are gonna have to happen...might as well do them right. My usual sources of knowledge (A. Graham Bell, Burns Stainless, ect) are not all jiving...

    Pictures start tomorrow.
    Last edited by Xnke; 03-07-15 at 03:29 PM.

  2. #2
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    Excellent. I always enjoy the amount of tech in your threads, very interested in seeing what the new combo makes.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimi View Post
    80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
    Quote Originally Posted by schnitzelburger View Post
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  3. #3
    Desert Nigga vet 180's Avatar
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    Sounds cool
    Quote Originally Posted by Babalouie View Post
    Geez we're a bunch of softcocks...we have a 911 and we're obsessing over non-functional ducts and indicator colours

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    Had to haul a load of sand today, so pulled the camper shell off. Found in 24 years the shell had rubbed a hole clean through the cab, and eaten two strips across the back of the cab. It's gotta go now...

    The rear end has had a loud pop in the suspension for a while, but I thought it was just the bed bolts shifting as the frame moved. Turns out that it was the leaf spring on the left side...front spring eye has been broken for a few years.

    Time has come to straighten the wrinkle in the bed, and for a roll on bedliner.

    The bill just keeps going up...

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    Ugh, if it wasn't such a useful thing...



    But it is. Installed that lowering kit two days ago...didn't find all the great stuff, like I said above:



    I'll have to remember to get a shot of the old springs when I take them out in the morning.

    In the meantime, this morning I picked up some replacement springs. Cost me an hour, and a small pile of scrapmetal. The things you find stashed in farmer's fields never ceases to amaze me.



    Camper shell damage:



    Hail damage...





    This old truck got beat to shit back in 1998, but whenever I find non-hammered parts I try to replace them. Needs a cab and a front driver's fender now, the long bed is a rare thing to find on a long-wheelbase truck...almost all of the long-wheelbase trucks have short beds and extended cabs on them, but there are short-wheelbase, standard cab, long bed trucks out there in droves. Problem is...the wheel arches are not in the same locations on the bed! Means I have to fix the two dents in the bed side.

    Old reliable...this engine has done 200K miles in 22 years. Leaks oil out the stamped steel valve covers like they're not even bolted on, and that shitful A/C compressor has been replaced 4 times, can't get a good one. Replaced the whole A/C system completely the last two go-rounds, compressor seals always fail on the rebuilt ones.



    And here's the mock-up assembly I had on the stand before the engine build started:



    If only I had a Holden blower case and inlet elbow instead of all my Buick cases...Did the M62 ever come fitted to anything RWD Holden? I know the M90 did, but I don't need the full capacity of the M90.
    Last edited by Xnke; 20-06-15 at 04:22 PM.

  6. #6
    Registered User GreatWallGT500's Avatar
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    nah we just got all m90 stuff

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    Just dropped 300$ at Rockauto, headed back out to finish putting the new-old leaf springs in.

    The more work I put into this truck, the more work I want to put into this truck. It's stealing time and money away from the Maverick.

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    Well, let's get down to it. Header math. This is a V6, so the effect is two 3-1 headers into a 2-1, a cousin of the "tri-y" and so we'll treat it as such. Peak torque for a pickup truck ought fall under 4000RPM. This truck is geared for a maximum engine speed of about 6000RPM so that will work out OK. I haven't actually revved it over 5K before; sounded like it was gonna come apart so I lifted.

    Even though my header flanges are cut for a 1.625" primary tube, I think I have enough 1.5" on hand. It will be borderline for the power the engine can achieve, though, so I am still contemplating going to 1.625".



    They're not particularly well aligned, I believe the flanges were normalized as the other head is slightly different still.







    Might do some port cleanup at some point, but meh. Right now I am just working out if I have enough pipe on hand.



    Will be a bit snug up here. Totally workable. This is the tight-tube anyway, the other two will have to snake a bit.



    If I were to run a 1.5" OD 16g tube, for an ID of 1.38", the header tubes would resonate around 3865RPM. If I was going to make a 6-1 header, the primary length required for a peak at that RPM would be 44.8". I'm gonna fudge a bit because I gotta get the driver's side bank down and under the engine, under the oil pan and then merge it in too, and that is going to take a good bit of pipe.

    If I was to run 1.625" OD, 16g tube, resulting in an ID of 1.5", the header tubes would resonate at 4600RPM...a bit too high for a truck. But, I mentioned I might fit a blower later, so need to modify the input slightly.

    I use PeakTorqueRPM= (Primary Tube Area * 88200)/(Adjusted Cylinder Displacement) to figure primary tube diameter. In this case, for 1.5" tube naturally aspirated:

    PeaktorqueRPM = (1.49 * 88200)/(204/6), or 3865RPM. Perfect.

    For the 1.625" OD tube, it comes out:

    PTRPM = (1.77 * 88200)/(34), or 4591RPM. Just usable. Would be good for a car that revs to 6000RPM though!

    If I boost the engine to 8psi with an M62, the displacement has to be adjusted a little, I normally just go by the pressure ratio.

    PR = (14.7+8)/14.7, so PR = 1.54. Now, Adjusted Cylinder Displacement is (204*1.54)/6, or 52.36...round it to 52. This is not exact science. It all gets mashed into whatever tube size is closest later anyway.

    Running the math again, we get this for 1.5" tube:

    PTRPM= (1.49 * 88200)/(52), resulting in a peak torque RPM of 2527RPM...Gotta love that blower torque...It'll be full 8PSI right there so the 1.5" OD header would probably start being a restriction about 3800RPM, maybe. Depends on cam/intake/etc.

    But what about the 1.625" tube? With the blower, that'd probably get me right back into the zone.

    PTRPM = (1.77 * 88200)/(52), for a result of 3002RPM. Still a little low, but would mean I'd start seeing the restriction about 4500RPM...

    When I say restriction, I mean that you'd see the first little bit of torque fall off...not that it would hit a wall. And we haven't even started on the primary length tuning, so there is room to work with. Looks like 1.625" tubes aren't as big of a compromise as I thought, and the 1.5" tubes will be a little too small if I do go with the blower.

    I need to grab another 3500 upper intake and see how easy it would be to bolt the blower down. It'd be easy, but just HOW easy...hmm.
    Last edited by Xnke; 23-06-15 at 06:56 AM.

  9. #9
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    Can you explain the theory behind the headers resonating? I'm trying to get my head around why that would happen or why it would be a problem but I think i'm getting hung up on a literal meaning of the word and not the actual interpretation.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimi View Post
    80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
    Quote Originally Posted by schnitzelburger View Post
    My entire working career pretty much consists of suckin dick and takin names.

    Sometimes im too busy to take names.

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    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sketchy View Post
    Can you explain the theory behind the headers resonating? I'm trying to get my head around why that would happen or why it would be a problem but I think i'm getting hung up on a literal meaning of the word and not the actual interpretation.
    Exhaust pulse belts down the tube as the exhaust valve opens, pressure wave reflects off the "open end" of the tube at the collector, comes screaming back up the pipe, and if it's at the right rpm, stuffs a bunch of fresh fuel/air mix back into the cylinder. This is a very basic description of what's happening.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

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    header tube diameter sets torque peak, header length sets torque band, as far as I understand it. Same thing with intake tuning, but the constants are different for the different temperatures.

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    Looking into the fuel rail assemblies now. The 3500 rail that matches the intake is a returnless style, but the 3400 rail that I also have is a normal regulated with return...but I had to rotate the integrated regulator to get it in there.

    Unfortunately, that makes the fuel lines come out going it wrong direction, so I started looking again at another solution-the 1999-2004 Corvette integrated fuel pressure regulator/filter assembly. It's a feed and return in, and a feed out-AND it will bolt up to the truck fuel filter mount. Easy victory. For bonus points, the 3500 fuel rail inlet actually points down the right side of the engine in a kinda-sorta close direction. A little coaxing and I bet I can make it work.

  13. #13
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Exhaust pulse belts down the tube as the exhaust valve opens, pressure wave reflects off the "open end" of the tube at the collector, comes screaming back up the pipe, and if it's at the right rpm, stuffs a bunch of fresh fuel/air mix back into the cylinder. This is a very basic description of what's happening.
    This would only be a problem with poorly constructed collectors introducing a "bounce point" wouldn't it, I.E shit 4 > 1 collectors that arent merged correctly? I would have thought if the outer edges of the wave were going to reflect that the velocity of the unrestricted part wave and the subsequent waves behind it would push it through the collector, much like a mushroom cloud. Or is my thinking the wrong way round because the wave would reflect off the internal point? Does all this phenomenon go away if there is no collector and pipes merge individually?
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimi View Post
    80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
    Quote Originally Posted by schnitzelburger View Post
    My entire working career pretty much consists of suckin dick and takin names.

    Sometimes im too busy to take names.

  14. #14
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    The pressure pulse sees any significant change in cross section as open space and you'll get a relection. It's not a problem - it's something you actually want - Just like the pulse reflections in 2 stroke exhausts.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

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    Exactly. The same thing happens in your intake manifold, which is why ITB's have "that sound" and it's the only way you attain greater than 100% VE in a N/A engine.

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    SOOOO...I'm an idiot sometimes.

    All that math above I wrote out thinking it was based in acoustic resonance...it's not.

    It's actually based on the exhaust gas velocity. It predicts peak torque based on the exhaust gasses moving 240 feet per second.

    It's still valid, but it makes it clear that I should be using 1.625" pipe, if I am serious about the blower. It will make peak torque at 5000RPM N/A, or 3000RPM blown, but it's based on gas velocity and not acoustic resonance.

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    So I got to thinking last night.

    And I was sitting in the shop, staring at the engine on the stand, and the M90 blower on the shelf.

    Staring at the engine, then the blower, then the truck, back to the engine, ect.

    Yeah, it's gonna have to happen.

  18. #18
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    Less typing, more fabbing : )
    DJ's don't need sigs

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    Trying to sell off some ported datsun heads/intakes/stuff to get money for the truck. I keep about 1800kg of datto parts in the shop most days...but as I am only servicing one current competition car I don't really need to have that much stuff on the shelf.

    Remember, I am only doing this engine swap for Air Conditioning that doesn't suck, and valve covers that don't leak oil...

    UPDATE: Just sold one of my old street-ported L28 heads; it's one I haven't used for a bit so there's some extra cash coming. STILL not legal to work yet so I am scraping up cash where I can to get this engine assembled and get it into the truck. Hoping the insurance group will call monday with a good rate and let me go to work again.
    Last edited by Xnke; 29-06-15 at 11:39 AM.

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    Got the busted spring replaced-Truck sat a bit funny till i got both sides in. I think the old springs were a bit off..



    Chopped this section off the power steering bracket, only the top left hole in the photo lines up. Would have to drill the head for top right hole, as it's off 15mm, and the bottom hole just has to go anyway to clear the coolant temp sensor.



    Need to add a smidge of steel to this power steering pump bracket...no biggie.



    Block had to go to the machine shop. All the bores but one cleaned up at a slightly loose 0.0024" over the piston skirt, when the pistons call for 0.0013" as the target clearance. The #1 bore, however...



    (Check it out guys...I've upgraded to a folding table over my old sawhorses...I think I preferred my old sawhorses though.)

    Didn't make it there. Swapped the pistons out for the cheapest available oversize (+0.75mm) from the same manufacturer. They're Silv-O-Lite hyperutectics, but they're "rebuilders' pistons" and as such are decked 0.030" in compression height-perfect if you had to cut the deck or if you're using a 0.020" thinner head gasket, which is what I need to do to get the heads onto the block-these pistons originally came in the FWD engines that used hard plastic junk that was 0.060" thick, vs the RWD engines that used more traditional graphite composite gaskets that crush down to 0.040" thick. Without decking the pistons, the pistons for use with the alloy heads will just kiss the heads if everything is standard-standard...they wind up at a 0.0" clearance. I'll wind up with the target 9.5:1 compression, 0.030" piston-to-head clearance, and the good, cheap headgaskets.

    The destructions that came with the pistons indicate using a 20% bigger top ring gap for them as they are hypereutectic, regardless of the ring manufacturer, but I don't know why. The rings are a relatively inexpensive total seal set with a steel top ring and ductile iron second ring, will give them a call and ask why/why not.

    Once the block is back, I'll dummy it up and get the accessory drive on, work out the idler needed to get enough belt wrap on the supercharger drive pulley, as well as the drive ratio. I already have a few quick-swap pulleys, so just need to whip up another hub and that's fixed. I already built all the jigs to shorten the Eaton nosedrive, so that's no big deal. The case will be a new one for me-I haven't done a right-angle entry case before. I think I can cut a solid 4" off the back of the case, raise the intake port up and to the right side of the bay and fit a 65-70mm throttle with no issues. I don't really need a giant throttle on this one-not going to run more than 8-10lbs of boost, target is 6-8lbs.

    Worked out that the rocker arms are actually 1.6:1 ratio roller fulcrum units instead of the plus-or-minus 1.52:1 ratio stamped-pivot units that were stock-this is handy. Means that the cam profile that I picked will work out favorably. Cam is 268* at 0.006" lifter rise, 218* at 0.050 lifter rise, and would lift 0.467" at the valve with the 1.52 ratio rocker arms-with the 1.6 arms, that's 0.491"...not a big increase but it's definitely welcome. Will still need custom pushrods-but I needed those anyway, partly because of the headgaskets and partly due to the alloy heads always being on roller-cam engines except for the very early ones. The difference in lifter-height is a lot. I have a set of the "correct" pushrods that would probably work on a stock cam, but they were never a sure thing so it's not a huge deal.

    May have some blower-case fab shots late next week-have to do some paying work first.
    Last edited by Xnke; 03-07-15 at 03:21 PM.

  21. #21
    Goat roper Motherfucker Jones's Avatar
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    Surprising to see canted valves on a dirty old chev tractor engine
    Quote Originally Posted by RVK 355 View Post
    Hold it flat cunt

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    It's not the engine you think---this one is itty-bitty. I actually am not sure it showed up at all in the Southlands. It's not a 3.8L 90* V6 "Moo", nor the 4.3L 90* V6 based on a shortened 305 V8, but rather the 2.8/3.4/3.5L "X-code" 60* V6 that came in the S10 pickup, Izuzu Rodeo, Jeep Wrangler, 3rd and 4th Gen Camaro, and a slew of FWD cars. It's now up to 3.9L displacement-but they had to move the bores slightly, use 5.3L LS V8 pistons, and the heads now use LS-sized valves. Unfortunately, the 3.9L heads won't backdate to the older engines, the bores are ~0.100" wider spaced and the water jackets are pushed out ~0.100" further from the bore centerlines. They will physically bolt up and the intake will fit, but the pushrods hit the heads, water jackets have to be welded and moved, valves touch the tops of the bores, ect.

    The original iron heads are straight-valved, with low, rectangular ports. Used SBC styled valve-gear and such. All the alloy heads starting in 1987 had canted valves and round exhaust ports, then in 1993 they got a raised, D-shaped exhaust, MUCH better intake ports, 1996 saw roller-fulcrum rockers, 2004 saw bigger intake ports, bigger exhaust ports, 1.6 ratio rockers, and still better port flow. Up until 2006, heads from 1980 to 2006 could be interchanged as long as you used matching intake and exhaust manifolds, and minded the valves didn't hit the bores on the 2.8 and 3.1L engines.

    These never came factory supercharged or turbocharged either---such a shame as the 3.5L "LX9" that I pulled these heads from made 210HP stock, and takes boost like a champ-I know of one of these engines in a 240Z making ~360HP with a GT3582R and doing it at 10lbs of boost.

  23. #23
    Goat roper Motherfucker Jones's Avatar
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    Yeah I figured it was a different animal to the moo mang but was just impressed they got all fancy on what is essentially a bunky truck engine but still kept pushrods and things. Over here Rodeos and such had a quad cam V6 from mid 90s onwards. 6ve1 or some shit. Worlds longest snappy head bolts.

    At least being 60 degree does it not sound as horrible as a 90 degree moo machine?
    Quote Originally Posted by RVK 355 View Post
    Hold it flat cunt

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    GM still runs pushrods for good reason-there is no need to go OHC for them to get the milage, power, and emissions they need for their appliance vehicles. It is far cheaper for them to keep running things the way they have forever, I imagine. Heck, the new 3.5l v6 and 3.9l v6 have vvt with a single can and pushrods.. They claim an industry first.

    Pushrods aren't so bad, really...I mean isn't the PF engine swap of choice still a straight-valve, pushrod, 2-valve, cam-in-block V8?

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    So while I had to be outside with the dog as per the fireworks-are-freaking-me-the-fuck-out agreement that dog and I have, I got out the markers and we went and looked at mangleing a blower case. I have *some* room to work, I can cut about 2.5" off the back of the case and bring it around, keep it a 70mm inlet, and it'll work out fine.



    The intake manifold is kinda-sorta where it would need to be underneath the blower; I'll skin the top of it off and gut the manifold, I'm still working on intercooler ideas.



    The L67 length nosedrive assembly might be pretty close. I might compromise on blower position if it's really close, but if it's off more than half the width of the pulley, I'll re-machine the nose drive same as I did the datto's. I have spare pulleys for the quick change pulley on the datto, so I'll machine another hub and they'll share. I think the datto will need a 3.4" pulley eventually and this truck will need a 3.8 or a 3.6, I have a spare 3.8 and the datto has a 3.6 on it already.



    The stock throttle body for the 3500 isn't gonna work..it's drive-by-wire. The stock throttle for the blower engine won't work, as it's fuck ugly. However, I think that I can make a Northstar throttle do the job, just gotta look at it hard for a bit and actually acquire one. Also took a closer look at the heads, as they'll get a quick port cleanup and then an expensive-as-fuck valve job, considering I'm operating on basically 200$ a month, after the important bills are paid. Stock valve job is a nice 5 angle one, both on intake and exhaust. The chamber has some sharp edges at the end of the valve job top cut, those will be blended but other than that the chamber is done-it's actually a decent job. I am looking into how much bigger the valves can go in the stock seats, as that will let me use the stock valve job angles but push the diameter out, rather than sink the seat down into the head. Sinking the intake seat slightly would let it blend into the chamber better, the top cut would flow out much cleaner, but going too much will screw with the rockers, which are shimmable, but otherwise non-adjustable. Stock valves, blend the throat cut into the port instead of the sharp machined corner right under the short turn (all six are different and very irregular), and profile the guide boss, and these heads are a valve job away from blower service.







    Once I have this week's paying work done I'll count up the pennies and see if I can order up some header tubing or something. I need to make a new battery tray to get the battery moved from the right side of the engine bay over to the left side, then stash a stock airbox out of something over in the old battery location to match up with the engine. The battery job will only take a longer wire to the starter-the other wires are workable. Not that big a job.
    Last edited by Xnke; 05-07-15 at 02:44 PM.

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    Did a bit of work on the intake tonight-can't really go a LOT further til the block is back in my hands, though.

    Started choppin'

    (yep, sawhorses and a board!)



    The three columns in the middle of the plenum meant I had to use a BFH to break up the top of the casting once it was cut, then start chopping the inside of the plenum clean.

    Leftovers...



    Dug through the stock shelf and found some aluminum flat, it'll work. Manifold was NASTY inside, coated in tar.



    Going to run that through the dishwasher a few dozen times, a trip across the belt sander to clean up the front and I'll weld in a bit to close up that hole, and then the new 10mm thick top plate will get welded in place. Will look something like this all done:



    You can see here that I'll have to scallop the top plate to allow the upper intake to bolt to the lower-the M90 blower is almost exactly the same width as the upper intake manifold. I am contemplating just chopping it down to where the bolts currently seat, and welding it on flush. Would be much easier to weld into place, and would solve some other issues, but I would have to buy a longer piece of plate. So that's not gonna happen.



    In other areas, there are some things that are tantalizingly close to correct-the nose drive length and the pulley size, namely. Roughly measuring using bits of the accessory drive show the pulley was within 3mm of being correct just stacking things on the table-I have plenty of room to move it that much-and the drive ratio should give me about 6-8lbs of boost without changing anything.
    Last edited by Xnke; 17-07-15 at 12:42 PM.

  27. #27
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    So I was changing the oil in the old engine today and noticed that the firewall in the truck has a good fist-sized hole rusted through it-the paint had it completely covered as if it wasn't even there, but I bumped it with a fumbled screwdriver and said screwdriver went clean through into my driver's floorboard...along with a handful of rust chips and paint shards.

    I pop rivited a bit of aluminum road construction sign over it with some silicone to keep the water out for now-looks like I am gonna have to swap the cab out anyway. Should take care of a number of other problems with the truck at the same time so meh, why not?

    Other than that, not much happening here.

  28. #28
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    Still interesting, keep at it. I have to read some of this stuff a few times to get my head around it, makes me want to head into the garage and start cutting things up and welding them to other things just because. Got any audio of the engine in question? Can't stand the sound of the 90 deg buick v6 motors so I'm interested to hear what this one sounds like at 60 deg angle.

    Out of interest, where in the states are you based?
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimi View Post
    80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
    Quote Originally Posted by schnitzelburger View Post
    My entire working career pretty much consists of suckin dick and takin names.

    Sometimes im too busy to take names.

  29. #29
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    Western Kentucky, I'm a few miles from the Corvette Assembly plant and 2.2 miles from the Holley Carburetor factory. QuickFuel Technology is less than a mile-lovely if you're into carburators and the like!

  30. #30
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    Here's a Youtube of the same engine, sounds like it's got a Crane 260H cam in it.


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