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Thread: '93 S10 Parts Hauler

  1. #331
    Ellis Juan mizone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    If it's not, and the resort cancels my reservation, then THE MISSUS will have bulk cash to throw at the Black Friday sales.
    There, fixed it for you.

  2. #332
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    See, that'd only be the case if I had one. Chicago lowlifes got to her before I did, so lots of problems there.

    Clutch conversion is sorted, the clutch for the 2.2L S10 is the proper one for this job. Unfortunately it's only a 1300lb pressure plate, even with a bronze ceramic 6-puck disk I am wary of it not being enough clutch. The current 1300lb pressure plate and organic disk is *not quite* up to the task at 8psi of boost, and that's before the dyno tune up. Found that out today.

    Uphill slope, standing start, 2000RPM on the funky 2-step limiter that is part of the stock auto trans programming, mostly just trying to work out how the limiter program works so I can actually make it usable. 2000RPM at WOT normally makes 3.5psi, and by 2500RPM I've got 8psi. If I had had a tach installed, I woulda knocked the needle off when I got off the clutch.

    So, the funky two-step works, you're on the limiter at 2000RPM, then you're on the limiter at 6400RPM, but you just don't go anywhere. Biggest issue with this truck right now-it feels good to drive around, but when you want to be a dickhead and really try to pin yourself back in the seat it's just not there.

  3. #333
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    Unfortunately it's only a 1300lb pressure plate, even with a bronze ceramic 6-puck disk I am wary of it not being enough clutch. The current 1300lb pressure plate and organic disk is *not quite* up to the task at 8psi of boost, and that's before the dyno tune up. Found that out today.
    based on what I read in a 40 year old cltuch book I think there is a pretty cheap way to modify pressure plates for more.... pressure, might be worth a call to a local clutch place (I imagine they would be about as rare as people who can drive "stick" over there though)

  4. #334
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    See, that'd only be the case if I had one. Chicago lowlifes got to her before I did, so lots of problems there.
    That doesn't sound great.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  5. #335
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    Clutch joint wants 250 bucks (yes, one and a half times the price of the clutch set) to up the pressure by 20%.

    I have machine tools and rivits here. I can probably do it myself...and I can fuck it up at least once before it costs me more than having the professional do it.

  6. #336
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    Well gentlemen, the above statement is correct. I can indeed fuck it up before it costs me more than the professional, but it'll have to wait-I leave in a few hours for my trip to the ocean.

    Took apart an old Datto pressure plate and looked it over, saw how the diaphragm spring works, and worked out what I'd need to do-just need to look over the stock pressure plate and see how much I can move things around. Assuming I can move the OD of the fulcrum ring out, by say, turning the original fulcrum ring off and press-fitting a new ring on that is larger diameter, then I can increase the leverage that the spring has against the pressure plate. The old 225mm L24 pressure plate could have an extra 3.3mm added, going from a 190mm fulcrum ring to 193.3mm. If I'm wrong, and I need to move the fulcrum ring *in*, the datto plate could have it moved A LOT and increase the pressure. More research needed.

    Other options include converting to a turbo ZX pressure plate, the 240mm pressure plate pattern could be machined in to fit, which means I could use the 350Z pressure plate too. Opens up a LOT of options, but would require a lot more effort.

    I installed an electric vacuum pump off a mitsubishi diesel truck, so now the A/C works at all loads and throttles, and doesn't fuck out when the engine draws less than 16" of vacuum.

  7. #337
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    Made to the ocean and have been having a blast fishing the head boats this week. (45 person 17m boat) at 70 bucks a day they are fun enough, but I landed a deal as a fill-in on a private charter for 150 bucks for tomorrow morning.

    Told my deckhand on the head boat (been with the same crew all week) about the trip, got the "good deal" speech. He asked about the boat and I gave the name and his jaw dropped, apparently I'm a lucky SOB to have even gotten a seat, let alone for that price.

    The truck has been all but perfect. I am gonna have to work on the gearing some, as the thing wants to roll 70mph at 3000rpm, and makes 48kpa MAP, in 4th gear. Shift up to 5th, rpms down to 2200, MAP up to 72kpa, and the A/C drops out due to some hard coded limit I haven't found and eliminated yet. Apparently when over 2000rpm, and over 50kpa MAP, A/C is disabled. That's gotta change... As t highway speeds the A/C cuts in and out with minute changes in the road, and you feel it all the time.

  8. #338
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    Returned home-total tally:

    1560 miles

    51 gallons of fuel

    30.5MPG or 7.7L/100km

    Still gotta sort that A/C weirdness, I have absolutely no idea what is causing it yet. Had a look through the code and nothing jumped out at me, so I may have to set up flags and just datalog the crap out of it until I find a flag that coincides with the problem.

    Also, the A/C is enabled any time the blower motor is running, I've discovered. That's my bad, I picked off the wrong wire somewhere...

  9. #339
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    That is good fuel consumption for a brick.

  10. #340
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    The original engine only did 22MPG, but it was a N/A 2.8L cast iron boat anchor. This one is at least a half cast aluminum boat anchor. I think once the gearing problem is sorted I may see some change, right now it wants to do 2200RPM and nearly WOT for 120km/h in 5th, or 3000RPM and fuck all throttle for 120km/hr in 4th. Looking at the data, I should probably try to get 5th gear to cruise at about 2600RPM to get the best combination of throttle and RPM for fuel economy. I also plan to lower the truck about 2" all the way around, give it the "Syclone" drop. (factory Syclones were 2" lower all the way round) I have an original truck air dam to bolt on the bottom side of the bumper, just need to get the air scoop folded up and the heat exchanger for the intercooler mounted and that can go on.

    Also, needs more boosts. Even on 87 octane, I can run stock L67 timing maps and 5.5lbs of boost with no knock retard of any significance. Knock counts are 7-10 total events over a 45 minute period, and I can easily push it into knock by commanding too much timing so I know the sensor works. Tuning is pretty slow going though, no live tuning yet. I haven't figured out how to push tables to RAM like some people have for other ECU's.

  11. #341
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    Ok, working on the trans swap, trying to work out the gear ratios.

    MA-5 (New Trans)
    1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Rev
    3.75 2.26 1.37 1.00 0.73 3.67

    T-5 (Old Trans)
    1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Rev
    4.03 2.37 1.49 1.00 0.76 3.76

    Currently, the T-5 has me running 2200RPM for highway cruising speed in 5th gear. Really would like to be closer to 2600RPM, I'm under the torque curve and lugging pretty bad at that point. The engine MAP tends to start recovering about 2600RPM, so that's the new 70mph 5th gear target.

    Rear axle ratio is currently 3.42, and can easily move to a 3.73 or a 4.10 ratio. Both are easily and cheaply obtained in 8.8 explorer axles with factory limited slip centers.

    So, Before Swap:

    4th gear:
    45mph = 1960rpm poor vacuum, 72kpa
    55mph = 2395rpm eh vacuum, 60kpa
    70mph = 3047rpm good vacuum, 45kpa

    5th gear
    55mph = 1825RPM poor vacuum, 77kpa
    70mph = 2320RPM Poor vacuum, 68kpa
    75mph = 2480RPM eh vacuum, 62kpa

    With the new transmission, 4th gear doesn't change, and fifth gear only slightly-and it gets worse:

    New Trans
    5th gear
    55mph = 1750RPM
    70mph = 2225RPM
    75mph = 2385RPM

    So, not going in the right direction. Time to look at a gear change-3.73 rear gears now:

    New Trans, 3.73 gears
    5th gear
    55mph = 1900RPM
    70mph = 2450RPM
    75mph = 2600RPM

    Getting closer now, let's look at a 4.10 gearset

    New Trans, 4.10
    5th gear
    55mph = 2100RPM
    70mph = 2700RPM
    75mph = 2850RPM

    This is getting to be pretty dang close-so looks like it's time to get a 4.10 rear end. Still fairly common in the parts yards.

  12. #342
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    Fuel comsumption should actually be better closer to atmosphere at lower engine speed provided you can sort out control issues. How the thing feels trying to pull off the line with a load onboard is a different story. I'd choose diff on drivability.

  13. #343
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    The throttle position is what I'm looking at, mostly-I'm pretty much at WOT in 5th to maintain 70mph up a hill, but in 4th gear, 30%-40% throttle easily pulls the hills at the same speed.

  14. #344
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    Got bored, poured the boost to it this evening and totally killed what remains of the clutch disk. Will have to go in the morning and pick it up from my cousin's driveway, then it's on stands til I get the new transmission fitted up.

    Only thing left to do on the transmission is final measurements and fitting of the new extended pilot bearing, and making sure the slave cylinder pushrod is the right length. After that, I think even the driveshaft will be the right length after swapping the slip yoke and U-joint.

  15. #345
    Ellis Juan mizone's Avatar
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    So, is it keeper?

  16. #346
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    I am quite pleased. Won't really know what it'll do until the new transmission is in. Up til now, it's been a LOT of fun, but the clutch hasn't held all of it ever, and the T5 is only barely hanging on, from the sounds it makes.

    Having second thoughts on the pressure plate I have, so while the flywheel is still in my hands and not bolted to the back of the engine I'm gonna drill it to fit a Nissan 240mm pressure plate assembly. I have a few of these on the shelf from turbo SR20's and turbo L28s, as well as standard VQ35's.

    Standard L28ET and SR20DET pressure plates aren't any stiffer than the one I have at 600kg/1300lbs, but the two VQ plates laying around here are 1200kg/2600lbs clamping force. I don't know if that much spring is going to deform the flywheel though, it's not terribly thick or heavy. It IS double the clamp load though, and the same bolt pattern. If I drill the flywheel for the Nissan pattern now I can always fit the heavier clamp load plate later. And then I can have a good reason to rebuild the bottom end when the thrust bearing wipes out.

  17. #347
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    Layed the boost to it today-was prepping to go to the dyno mid-next month. Replaced the blower pulley with the 3.4" pulley, smallest spare I had, and it came up to 13lbs of boost.

    Unfortunately, I think I may have sunk a piston-Cylinder 1 isn't contributing to the party. Unsure if I've got an injector issue, have good solid spark, and it its timed properly. I can disable the injector and do not loose RPM, don't gain a misfire.

    1 is also the cylinder that needed clearance to the valve cover, so it's possible that I have some kind of valvetrain issue. There is some "badness" going on with the pushrod length, that I deemed "good enough unless I float a valve" so it's entirely possible I floated an exhaust valve, locked the hydraulic lifter at maximum extension, and bashed a valve into a piston.

    I'd rather that not be the case, but chances are good that it is.

  18. #348
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    Not sure whatever the issue was with Cylinder 1-it's come good now after the Italian. Next up is fix my old tuning laptop-during the fucking about to work out the problem with that cylinder, the battery died and it hasn't come back. 20$ to Amazon and we'll see how bad the tune really is.

    Next on the list of things to do is convert to a single-piece driveshaft. It's not that long, there are plenty of modern trucks today running singles longer than this truck-and I've had to put 3 carrier bearings in this thing in 8 years. It's not fun, and I don't wanna do any more of them...

  19. #349
    Resident Oaf Jim's Avatar
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    Lifter stuffed?
    Sorry havenít read enough to know if youíre running solids or hydrolic
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

  20. #350
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    hydraulic, coulda been a stuck lifter. I went through the valvetrain as far as could be done without pulling the heads or intake, but that doesn't mean it couldn't have been-especially since I dunno what the fuck it was. Could have been a fouled plug (I torched them off and they seemed fine during testing) that finally got hot enough or a plug wire that will fail again at the most inopportune time, dunno.

  21. #351
    Gimme six Schlitzes Beavis's Avatar
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    Xnke, if you were going to do an LS swap into an S10, which kit would you use? I'm interested in doing one but don't have the time (or skills) to actually fabricate.

    Bolting stuff in and out, I can do fine. But I'd rather take the easiest route, even if it's more expensive...

  22. #352
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    Need to know which body style and what the original engine was. The second gen trucks with the 4.3L will take an LS with a set of SBC-to-LS swap plates and very little else, but to answer the question properly we have to be very specific, especially regarding wiring, which is the thing people tend to freak out about, and is a thing that will cause a lot of heartache and an empty wallet in short order.

    Sent you a PM, lemme know what parts you have and I may have some of what you need, I don't stock full kits and rarely get people who want to do it properly vs wanting to do it as cheaply as possible.
    Last edited by Xnke; 17-04-18 at 07:36 PM.

  23. #353
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    So, two months later, this thing is getting a bit of love. Still have to sort out a LOT of stuff like the A/C bullshit, and the 1-piece driveline, but progress is slow with the shop actually having good workload these days.

    Found these for a steal of a deal-40 bucks a wheel.



    old American Racing wheels, the local tire shop ordered these in for a customer in the wrong offset, so back on the shelf they went-they're marked "Return to maker" but obviously they just sat on the shelf. The center caps are billet aluminum, instead of the plastic that comes with them today. I plan to black anodize the center caps, and wipe in some grey and blue paint into the lettering, blue lettering and grey lines, to match the truck better.

    15x8", +1mm offset, 5 on 120.65mm. Only thing is that they sit in so close to the suspension on the truck, less than a mm from hitting the upper ball joint and they hit the upper control arm when turning the wheel. Took a look, yep, my steering stops have bent and broken off the lower control arm-new ones will have to be made, but the wheels still need a spacer to put them out where they belong. (These should be a -12.7mm offset to actually fit properly.) I have a set of 22mm spacers here, that's a bit much but we'll see how they look. Planning to run some 235/60/15's all around, it's got 205/70/14's on it right now.
    Last edited by Xnke; 06-06-18 at 12:32 PM.

  24. #354
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    Hell of a bargain, and will look the tits too.

    Going to feature this jigger in your ongoing YT videos mate?
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimi View Post
    80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
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    My entire working career pretty much consists of suckin dick and takin names.

    Sometimes im too busy to take names.

  25. #355
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    Yep. Learning how to use the screen capture tool and voice over stuff to do videos on tuning with Tunerpro for the P66 6 cylinder PCM and the 0411 LS1 V8/4.3L V6 PCM. Soon 2000-2002 LS1 PCM (one red/one blue connector) tuning will be totally free, the computer side application to flash and read the PCM is pretty much done, and the flash kernel to boot up and flash the PCM is complete and working but can't be distributed until a few things get tidied up and re-coded. Once this goes live, I'll be doing videos on swap tuning, how to disable VATS, how to select individual coil spark or distributor spark, and will be doing some work on getting v8 and v6 mode code mixed in to allow v6's with individual coils and v8's with distributors, etc.

    I *have* gotten a new camera...so I can reshoot the weber carb video and get that one uploaded, and it's getting to be junkyard weather so there will be some junkyard hunting done. Speaking of junkyard hunting...

    4BT in a 41 ford truck, anyone?


  26. #356
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    I missed your post about converting this to 1 piece tailshaft, how long is your shaft? Guy on DezertRats changes his center bearing on his 22RE-T pickup everyother week he reckons, granted he's also broken chrome-moly control arms, snapped Ranch shocks in half and had a battery escape over the side of his bed due to his driving style. He reckons his shaft is too long to go 1 piece at 66" long, probably right given he pulls 7000rpm in 4th with 4:3 gears and 32" tyres.

  27. #357
    Two years in Lompoc... Lobster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irsa76 View Post
    how long is your shaft?
    Dude...
    Previously known as Lobster, Chuss's brother's anus, Chuss's brother, Lobsook, Lobstersock, Socks, Sockz, MissAmericaImportGirl, ClutchCLobster

    CJM 4 Life yo!

  28. #358
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lobster View Post
    Dude...
    Lol, what is this? MCM?

  29. #359
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    He reckons wrong, stock GM pickup trucks have 1-piece shafts 74" long from 1973 and up. More recently, the bigger pickup trucks have nice 4.5" aluminum shafts, I plan to get one of those and cut it down to fit. I will need a 66" shaft in mine, and as long as your buddy has room for a larger shaft diameter and is willing to run an aluminum shaft, it's no problem to go that long.

  30. #360
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    I think he's sticking with steel because pre-runner. And tighter than a fish's arsehole.

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