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Thread: '93 S10 Parts Hauler

  1. #331
    Ellis Juan mizone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    If it's not, and the resort cancels my reservation, then THE MISSUS will have bulk cash to throw at the Black Friday sales.
    There, fixed it for you.

  2. #332
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    See, that'd only be the case if I had one. Chicago lowlifes got to her before I did, so lots of problems there.

    Clutch conversion is sorted, the clutch for the 2.2L S10 is the proper one for this job. Unfortunately it's only a 1300lb pressure plate, even with a bronze ceramic 6-puck disk I am wary of it not being enough clutch. The current 1300lb pressure plate and organic disk is *not quite* up to the task at 8psi of boost, and that's before the dyno tune up. Found that out today.

    Uphill slope, standing start, 2000RPM on the funky 2-step limiter that is part of the stock auto trans programming, mostly just trying to work out how the limiter program works so I can actually make it usable. 2000RPM at WOT normally makes 3.5psi, and by 2500RPM I've got 8psi. If I had had a tach installed, I woulda knocked the needle off when I got off the clutch.

    So, the funky two-step works, you're on the limiter at 2000RPM, then you're on the limiter at 6400RPM, but you just don't go anywhere. Biggest issue with this truck right now-it feels good to drive around, but when you want to be a dickhead and really try to pin yourself back in the seat it's just not there.

  3. #333
    Unregistered User Permit Roadsailing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    Unfortunately it's only a 1300lb pressure plate, even with a bronze ceramic 6-puck disk I am wary of it not being enough clutch. The current 1300lb pressure plate and organic disk is *not quite* up to the task at 8psi of boost, and that's before the dyno tune up. Found that out today.
    based on what I read in a 40 year old cltuch book I think there is a pretty cheap way to modify pressure plates for more.... pressure, might be worth a call to a local clutch place (I imagine they would be about as rare as people who can drive "stick" over there though)

  4. #334
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    See, that'd only be the case if I had one. Chicago lowlifes got to her before I did, so lots of problems there.
    That doesn't sound great.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  5. #335
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    Clutch joint wants 250 bucks (yes, one and a half times the price of the clutch set) to up the pressure by 20%.

    I have machine tools and rivits here. I can probably do it myself...and I can fuck it up at least once before it costs me more than having the professional do it.

  6. #336
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    Well gentlemen, the above statement is correct. I can indeed fuck it up before it costs me more than the professional, but it'll have to wait-I leave in a few hours for my trip to the ocean.

    Took apart an old Datto pressure plate and looked it over, saw how the diaphragm spring works, and worked out what I'd need to do-just need to look over the stock pressure plate and see how much I can move things around. Assuming I can move the OD of the fulcrum ring out, by say, turning the original fulcrum ring off and press-fitting a new ring on that is larger diameter, then I can increase the leverage that the spring has against the pressure plate. The old 225mm L24 pressure plate could have an extra 3.3mm added, going from a 190mm fulcrum ring to 193.3mm. If I'm wrong, and I need to move the fulcrum ring *in*, the datto plate could have it moved A LOT and increase the pressure. More research needed.

    Other options include converting to a turbo ZX pressure plate, the 240mm pressure plate pattern could be machined in to fit, which means I could use the 350Z pressure plate too. Opens up a LOT of options, but would require a lot more effort.

    I installed an electric vacuum pump off a mitsubishi diesel truck, so now the A/C works at all loads and throttles, and doesn't fuck out when the engine draws less than 16" of vacuum.

  7. #337
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    Made to the ocean and have been having a blast fishing the head boats this week. (45 person 17m boat) at 70 bucks a day they are fun enough, but I landed a deal as a fill-in on a private charter for 150 bucks for tomorrow morning.

    Told my deckhand on the head boat (been with the same crew all week) about the trip, got the "good deal" speech. He asked about the boat and I gave the name and his jaw dropped, apparently I'm a lucky SOB to have even gotten a seat, let alone for that price.

    The truck has been all but perfect. I am gonna have to work on the gearing some, as the thing wants to roll 70mph at 3000rpm, and makes 48kpa MAP, in 4th gear. Shift up to 5th, rpms down to 2200, MAP up to 72kpa, and the A/C drops out due to some hard coded limit I haven't found and eliminated yet. Apparently when over 2000rpm, and over 50kpa MAP, A/C is disabled. That's gotta change... As t highway speeds the A/C cuts in and out with minute changes in the road, and you feel it all the time.

  8. #338
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    Returned home-total tally:

    1560 miles

    51 gallons of fuel

    30.5MPG or 7.7L/100km

    Still gotta sort that A/C weirdness, I have absolutely no idea what is causing it yet. Had a look through the code and nothing jumped out at me, so I may have to set up flags and just datalog the crap out of it until I find a flag that coincides with the problem.

    Also, the A/C is enabled any time the blower motor is running, I've discovered. That's my bad, I picked off the wrong wire somewhere...

  9. #339
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    That is good fuel consumption for a brick.

  10. #340
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    The original engine only did 22MPG, but it was a N/A 2.8L cast iron boat anchor. This one is at least a half cast aluminum boat anchor. I think once the gearing problem is sorted I may see some change, right now it wants to do 2200RPM and nearly WOT for 120km/h in 5th, or 3000RPM and fuck all throttle for 120km/hr in 4th. Looking at the data, I should probably try to get 5th gear to cruise at about 2600RPM to get the best combination of throttle and RPM for fuel economy. I also plan to lower the truck about 2" all the way around, give it the "Syclone" drop. (factory Syclones were 2" lower all the way round) I have an original truck air dam to bolt on the bottom side of the bumper, just need to get the air scoop folded up and the heat exchanger for the intercooler mounted and that can go on.

    Also, needs more boosts. Even on 87 octane, I can run stock L67 timing maps and 5.5lbs of boost with no knock retard of any significance. Knock counts are 7-10 total events over a 45 minute period, and I can easily push it into knock by commanding too much timing so I know the sensor works. Tuning is pretty slow going though, no live tuning yet. I haven't figured out how to push tables to RAM like some people have for other ECU's.

  11. #341
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    Ok, working on the trans swap, trying to work out the gear ratios.

    MA-5 (New Trans)
    1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Rev
    3.75 2.26 1.37 1.00 0.73 3.67

    T-5 (Old Trans)
    1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Rev
    4.03 2.37 1.49 1.00 0.76 3.76

    Currently, the T-5 has me running 2200RPM for highway cruising speed in 5th gear. Really would like to be closer to 2600RPM, I'm under the torque curve and lugging pretty bad at that point. The engine MAP tends to start recovering about 2600RPM, so that's the new 70mph 5th gear target.

    Rear axle ratio is currently 3.42, and can easily move to a 3.73 or a 4.10 ratio. Both are easily and cheaply obtained in 8.8 explorer axles with factory limited slip centers.

    So, Before Swap:

    4th gear:
    45mph = 1960rpm poor vacuum, 72kpa
    55mph = 2395rpm eh vacuum, 60kpa
    70mph = 3047rpm good vacuum, 45kpa

    5th gear
    55mph = 1825RPM poor vacuum, 77kpa
    70mph = 2320RPM Poor vacuum, 68kpa
    75mph = 2480RPM eh vacuum, 62kpa

    With the new transmission, 4th gear doesn't change, and fifth gear only slightly-and it gets worse:

    New Trans
    5th gear
    55mph = 1750RPM
    70mph = 2225RPM
    75mph = 2385RPM

    So, not going in the right direction. Time to look at a gear change-3.73 rear gears now:

    New Trans, 3.73 gears
    5th gear
    55mph = 1900RPM
    70mph = 2450RPM
    75mph = 2600RPM

    Getting closer now, let's look at a 4.10 gearset

    New Trans, 4.10
    5th gear
    55mph = 2100RPM
    70mph = 2700RPM
    75mph = 2850RPM

    This is getting to be pretty dang close-so looks like it's time to get a 4.10 rear end. Still fairly common in the parts yards.

  12. #342
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    Fuel comsumption should actually be better closer to atmosphere at lower engine speed provided you can sort out control issues. How the thing feels trying to pull off the line with a load onboard is a different story. I'd choose diff on drivability.

  13. #343
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    The throttle position is what I'm looking at, mostly-I'm pretty much at WOT in 5th to maintain 70mph up a hill, but in 4th gear, 30%-40% throttle easily pulls the hills at the same speed.

  14. #344
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    Got bored, poured the boost to it this evening and totally killed what remains of the clutch disk. Will have to go in the morning and pick it up from my cousin's driveway, then it's on stands til I get the new transmission fitted up.

    Only thing left to do on the transmission is final measurements and fitting of the new extended pilot bearing, and making sure the slave cylinder pushrod is the right length. After that, I think even the driveshaft will be the right length after swapping the slip yoke and U-joint.

  15. #345
    Ellis Juan mizone's Avatar
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    So, is it keeper?

  16. #346
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    I am quite pleased. Won't really know what it'll do until the new transmission is in. Up til now, it's been a LOT of fun, but the clutch hasn't held all of it ever, and the T5 is only barely hanging on, from the sounds it makes.

    Having second thoughts on the pressure plate I have, so while the flywheel is still in my hands and not bolted to the back of the engine I'm gonna drill it to fit a Nissan 240mm pressure plate assembly. I have a few of these on the shelf from turbo SR20's and turbo L28s, as well as standard VQ35's.

    Standard L28ET and SR20DET pressure plates aren't any stiffer than the one I have at 600kg/1300lbs, but the two VQ plates laying around here are 1200kg/2600lbs clamping force. I don't know if that much spring is going to deform the flywheel though, it's not terribly thick or heavy. It IS double the clamp load though, and the same bolt pattern. If I drill the flywheel for the Nissan pattern now I can always fit the heavier clamp load plate later. And then I can have a good reason to rebuild the bottom end when the thrust bearing wipes out.

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