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Thread: '93 S10 Parts Hauler

  1. #121
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    Overkilled the shit out of a valve cover notch tonight. Might have to grab another valve cover next time I'm in the yard and do it over, but it's purely cosmetic at this point. The rocker arms have plenty of clearance.

    This is a Gen2 valve cover-it doesn't *really* fit on the head. The two bottom valve cover bolts do not line up, and they use a different style of bolt to hold them down. They DO clear the alternator, though.



    This is the un-modified Gen3 valve cover, before I started chopping. The black cut line would make it the same height as the Gen2 cover.



    Well, now it clears the alternator....I didn't realize at the time I was marking it up that I was taking a BIG chunk. Oh well, it's painted black, and I can't see it from the driver's seat.



    Another gratuitous header shot-this time they're on the engine. I still haven't done much with the other side, yet.



    Maybe more tomorrow.

  2. #122
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    Haven't done much with this other than swear at my flaring tools, then throw them away and buy a good flare set. It will be in sometime soon, and some more progress can be made.

    I have been spending some hours looking at the belt arrangement, and things are gonna be interesting. Once the belt and the small plumbing is done, its time to start the wiring and get it into the car.

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  3. #123
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    So I've spent a little time on this and gotten to this stage of the game:



    A few more bits of tubing bent and a couple of welds will have the intake manifold completely finished, and then it's time to finish up the exhaust manifolds.

    Once the exhaust is done, it'll be on to finishing up the belt drive.

  4. #124
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    Started stripping down the donor wiring harness tonight. Couple cut wires that have to be removed as they aren't used, started untangling wires that are going to be used, tagged a few things, and figured out I need a 16 pin mating connector for the transmission harness. I've got an automatic ECU and harness, capable of running the 4L60e/4L70e transmissions, and I'd like to have that ability as a "plug-and-load" system. Basically just plug in the transmission, load an automatic tune and drive away.

    other than that I'll need to re-pin the injector harness, shorten a shit-ton of wires, and lengthen maybe twenty wires. The lengthening is the crap job as most of them are sensor wires and so I'll have to re-pin the ECU connector, which is not fun at all. I do have the pins already though, no dramas getting those.

    The connectors that go into the cab I still need to decipher. One of them is the starter wire, one of them is ignition power, a few of them are gear selector wires, the rest I really don't know WTF they do. Time to break out the D-size prints of the wiring harness...

  5. #125
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    So the wiring harness isn't so bad. I've only had to lengthen a few wires, most of them have been too long actually. I am making plans to fit the 4L60e auto trans later when the manual blows up, the wiring harness already supports it and so does the ECU, so why not? If I didn't have to use the truck regularly for a while I'd convert it to automatic right from the start-but I do use it and thus being able to tune the engine and transmission independently (even when the stock factory auto tune is still in the computer) is a bonus. I am not 100% sure that the transmission control code will enjoy the 2-bar map sensor code, because it hasn't been tested yet. The test vehicle the code was tested on was a turbo-manual, so we're kinda just guessing at the auto control side of things. It *should* still work OK...



    Have to add a switched power circuit and a power ground, already have the two sensor grounds and two sensor signals for the O2 sensors. They'll be along the trans wiring harness, as the exhaust runs down that side of the car already. The VSS sensor is also in that section, but someone got to it with snips before I pulled the harness. I have another connector, but I have no idea how much of the wiring was cut out with it, so I'll probably have to add some back once it's in the truck.

    Getting down to it, It is starting to feel like I would have a far easier time of things if I just added an "engine" fuse/relay block to source all the switched power from. The truck harness has three fused circuits for the ECU, but the camaro harness has five, plus the one I add for the heated O2 sensors, plus the automatic uses two fuses. Total fused circuits is now up to 9, and while some things (like injector power circuits, they're split) I am ok running from a single fuse, other things (like the torque converter clutch solenoid) I'd prefer to have their own fused circuit.

    The interior connectors haven't been too terrible so far-Only one of them is a power circuit, the starter line is superfluous so no worries there, the automatic gear select wiring is nicely seperated out from the dash harness in the Camaro so I just ordered the section of harness from ebay for that, along with the gear selector from a 1994 Oldsmobile Bravada (console shifter in those, "luxury" SUV version of the truck) and now I'm hunting a console from a Blazer or Bravada, (or a bucket seat truck console but those are rare) and some seats and seat brackets from the Bravada or Blazer.

    Scope Of Work is creeping up now...I need to hurry up and get this engine in before it gets away from me!

  6. #126
    Registered User E-Z's Avatar
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    This is awesome
    caprice nugget.

  7. #127
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    Couldn't resist opening day at the racetrack...

    19.05 at 79mph before the swap. 19.05! And I didn't break the trans or the diff!

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    Couldn't resist opening day at the racetrack...

    19.05 at 79mph before the swap. 19.05! And I didn't break the trans or the diff!
    1/4 or 1/8th?

  9. #129
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    The full quarter. I took all the tools and only a half tank of gas, weighed 2909 on the line. Without the tools but with me, it weighs 2770lbs.

    Working the math, ET says 82ish horsepowers, MPH says 110ish. Dynojet portable called out 68hp before I changed the oil months ago.

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    Last edited by Xnke; 19-02-16 at 06:32 AM.

  10. #130
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    Screwed around a little between VW bike engine ideas, got the MAP sensor mounted and the wiring run to it. I am just gonna make an underhood fuse-and-relay center like the Camaro's and be done with it-it will be safer that way.

    Looked at the idler bracket too, won't be as bad as I thought but I do need to find a water pump pulley to fit. Surpisingly they are hard to buy new!

  11. #131
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    Tried to make some brackets for the heat exchangers to mount up behind the grille, but found out that the truck rear-ended someone earlier in life. Front frame extensions are accordioned a bit and the whole grille sits very tight on the core support...gonna straighten it out Saturday and see what can be done to get me a bit more room.

    Air-to-water heat exchanger fits fine, it's the big Mercedes oil cooler that is gonna be a tight fit.

  12. #132
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    That is some good progress there. But the look of hose 1/4 times you have a huge amount of space for improvement.

    Keep at it!

  13. #133
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    Oh, those times are with the 200K mile 2.8L engine that's already in the truck...

  14. #134
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    I am aware of that. Will be a fun ride once this one goes in.

  15. #135
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    Still fighting the front bumper removal. Nothing is very badly bent but it is bent enough to be difficult.

    Protip: don't hit things with decorative bumpers.

  16. #136
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    New bumper is a 3x3" bit of square tube for now. Will get a nice big brush guard and step bumper in a few weeks. Meh.

    Finished up the belt drive tonight, but didn't make it to the parts store in time to find a belt.

    Made a bracket to house the coil pack AND fit the idler pulley in place:



    It will also act as a bigger heatsink for the coils, they apparently can get a little too hot and burn up, I'm told. I'd never notice that on this type, but sure, extra heatsinking.

    Got tired of waiting on places to call me back with a water pump pulley and I don't have time to go yank one off a junkyard engine. So I made my own, with blackjack, and hookers.



    Welded both inside and outside, that way after machining I still have plenty of material left.



    Give it a bit of a spin to clean up the edges...



    And here we go.





    It's the same diameter as the stock Camaro water pump pulley but it's an inch smaller than the stock S10 pulley...figured there might be something to it so I kept the small pulley.

  17. #137
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    Belt's on now, got the top stripped back off and am working out the intercooler lines and getting the intake manifold sealed back up.

    List of shit to do:

    Put injectors in, they're off being rebuilt
    Fit EFI fuse block
    Wire EFI fuse block-to-engine harness connector
    Straighten core support
    Mount oil and water coolers
    Mount oil filter and make oil lines
    Make and mount water box and water pump
    Make water lines
    Relocate battery to opposite side of truck
    Fit air box where old battery mount was
    fire it up and run it in
    Put oil in engine

  18. #138
    Registered User E-Z's Avatar
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    Nice one man.
    caprice nugget.

  19. #139
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    Next week the minimal paycheck will get spent on things like paying bills and buying fuseblock components. Exhaust parts showed up this week, intake manifold got sealed up this week, half the tapped tapered holes got tapped too deep, so a few fittings will get welded into place.

    After I buy said fittings, some more argon, and some silicon bronze TIG rod. Money, money.

  20. #140
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    Some fittings got bought for the truck engine, some exhaust studs got removed from the right guy's big block chevy, and some cams got dialed in for said right guy's racing engines.

    Have a job interview with Quick Time Carburetors tomorrow...will let you guys know how it goes.

  21. #141
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    Job place hasn't called me back, so I figure they're not keen on hiring me now.

    Some intercooler stuff has been made, but it's all just hanging out till I can scratch up some money to re-fill the Q argon for the TIG. At that point I'll have the water tank, water pump, and the (small) heat exchanger fitted, and hopefully the aluminum fittings for the oil cooler will show up so I can try to get that stuffed in behind the grille too. There is not much room to put anything in the grille area on this truck. I'm having to duct into and out of the water heat exchanger to keep some decent air flow across it, and it's gonna need a stone-shield as well.

    In other news, it's gonna get a fabricated front bumper, with a lower-reaching air dam to help push air into the heat exchanger and also to help add protection to the heat exchanger. And so I have someplace to actually mount the front turn signals...right now they're zip-tied to the front frame rails...

  22. #142
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    Wiring stuff showed up today, so hopefully this week I can start routing underhood wiring, things like intercooler pump, the 9 extra fuses that the PCM wants to see, stuff like that.

  23. #143
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    Machine.

  24. #144
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    Gonna make the first attempts at integrating the new wiring today...moving the ECM power over to the new fuse block this afternoon. Plan is to bring the fuse block up on run/cranking power, as in accessory none of the under hood needs power except the ECM has one line for accessory. I am researching if it is true accessory or not...

  25. #145
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    New fuel pump installed, new wiring run to back of the truck for the second fuel pump/sending unit for the dual tank conversion. Got the wiring for the intercooler pump and electric fan in place, fuse block location set, and the oil filter mount location drilled and tapped to mount the oil filter housing. Doing final checks on the engine wiring harness tonight and had to stop and build my little brother a guitar effects pedal...which turned into a several hour teaching lesson. More tomarrow.

    Oh, and fuck drum brakes. I hate the fuckers, leaking wheel cylinders and shitty shit. Have to fix those tomarrow too.

  26. #146
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    Injectors are back, figuring out the fuel line situation tonight. There are a few things in the way. Solid 85% of the under hood wiring is done. End of the week I should have some time to start figuring out the rest of the exhaust.

    Working on every front makes for slow progress.

  27. #147
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    So in trying to seal the intake up tonight, I got the injectors in and sealed, and went to fit the upper intake and decided to pressure test the intercooler. Good thing, since the flare fitting s leak like I drilled a hole in the tube.

    Turns out on close inspection of the flare seats and tube ends, my nice 150$ flaring tool is a piece of shit. Will have to call the manufacturer and tell them so, and then ask how I fix it. Every flare it makes is off-center just ever so slightly, and it is off center in the same place every time.

    In this case some dead soft aluminum washers will probably get employed.

  28. #148
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    Sealed the intercooler and intake manifold up final today, mounted the blower. Then realized I still need to do vacuum ports for brake booster, HVAC, and PCV lines. Constant vacuum ports, basically, all the intake plenum sensor ports that need to see boost and vacuum are already done. I'll stick 'em on the removable section of throttle body.

    List of shit to do:

    Put injectors in, they're off being rebuilt-Done
    Fit EFI fuse block
    Wire EFI fuse block-to-engine harness connector
    Straighten core support-done
    Mount oil and water coolers
    Mount oil filter and make oil lines
    Make and mount water box and water pump-Done
    Make water lines
    Relocate battery to opposite side of truck
    Fit air box where old battery mount was
    fire it up and run it in
    Put oil in engine

    Ticked a few of these boxes today. Might get a few more ticked off tomarrow, then it's time to start taking the truck apart, I guess. I'll have to fix the datto first so I can drive it to work and back Sunday then.

  29. #149
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    So here's the current state of things:



    Still on the motor stand.

    Oh well. I used some strawberry jam to bond the intake together, it should be fine. Had to strain it first, too many seeds made it not wanna sit right.



    Got the water tank nearly done, just a bit of trimming to do to fine tune things, but again...fire extinguisher!



    Needed a bit of a trim to fit though.





    Never waste stuff like that, it's handy. Yeah, you gotta grind the powdercoat off but so what, it's free metal.

    Finished up the fuel feed line, but I still need to bend the return line. Welding 0.020" wall stainless tubing is touchy!



    Feedline is 8mm for about 50cm, but the rest of the truck is 10mm feedline. Return line is 8mm for the whole truck. I am gonna try to find a 10mm feedline tomorrow, when I got to the parts yard. Also need an auxiliary fuel tank and sending unit, I have almost everything needed to dual-tank the truck so I'm gonna do it. Will give me at least 130L tank capacity, maybe 140L, depends on what tank I get. I'll pick the tank with the smallest hole punched in it, the parts yards are savage about fuel tanks. Fixing them isn't a big deal, just takes patience to make sure they're scrubbed and ~90% full of water when being welded back up. Still scares the fuck out of me though.

  30. #150
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    Grabbed a tank from a Gen2 Blazer, so the fuel sending unit isn't the correct one for the dash gauges. (Dash gauge wants 0-90 ohms, Gen2 blazer is 40-240 ohms) The solution, I think, is to cannibalize a Gen1 S-10 pump hanger and swap the sending units. Blazer pump arm is a different shape though, so either will need to be a gen1 blazer sender or will need some work. At least this sending unit has the correct pump hanger, no mods needed.

    I went to a new You-Pull yard today, was a boon as they don't slash the tank like most yards do, just a nice neat 25mm hole cut in.



    A little file work to clean off the galvanization, slapped a patch on the tank, and pressure tested with water to 20PSI.



    Now I gotta get this bit of junk out of tank, it's pretty clean inside other than that.



    Tomorrow I'm gonna try to pull the bed off and see what I can get done as far as mounting the tank. I chopped out a fuel filler door from a Gen1 truck, just need to get the tank mounted and lock down the fuel door location along the length of the bed. I'm going to be cutting it in right at the same vertical level, so need to figure on how low the tank needs to be to make it fill correctly. Last thing I want is a tank that chokes at the pump, or that can't be filled at all!

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