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Thread: Moving along nothing to see here

  1. #1
    BOOSTFARKIN
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    Moving along nothing to see here

    Been mucking around for a while now with my hx Ute with 304/308 bottom ends with hq heads, blow through carb tr3550 gear bag and China special t04z.
    Goes ok with around 11psi crammed up it.

    But still won't lay 11s from 3rd gear onwards with out a good clutch kick. Then normally has a hissy fit and decides that clutch smoke is more important then tyre smoke... Has 3.08 ass end gears so is fairly starting to pile on the speed in 3rd and normally fairly well hooked up by then.

    Have now decided that it's time for the not so slapped together motor built.
    Run down on motor
    VS 5l block grouted to around halfway up freeze plugs.
    Scat crank and rods.
    Comp ratio of 9.3 on stock chamber vs heads.
    Line honed zero decked bored balanced and honed etc etc. Getting south side engine centre in Perth to do this work.
    Main studs and stud girdle... They recommended it I was prepared to go 4bolt etc but as
    I said it was going to be a 6500rpm max revlimit he was confident that a girdle should suffice.

    Heads will be cleaned up vs heads with really basic clean of the valve guides and blending and exhausts ports will get a good clean up.

    I have a come racing 4bbl intake manifold and contemplating a hydraulic roller cam. If not similar to the current hyd cam in my hq headed setup. It's around 225@50 with around 550 lift and 114 lsa.
    Not sure yet kind of researching and acquiring parts for a while yet.
    Ie fuel injection setup contemplating haltech but undecided .


    Most likely will keep manual gearbag for now but contemplating a t400.

    My thoughts are around gt4294r size as new turbo I want it to spool up fairly fast as turbo is under the tray currently and probably will stay there.


    Thoughts

  2. #2
    Goat roper Motherfucker Jones's Avatar
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    Go hydro roller. The lobes won't fall off and for something that only sees 6500 they're perfect. Make good power, don't have to run shit in or stress about oil choice so much. Also check your cam bearing clearance with whatever cam you use. Had dramas there before with losing oil pressure… something free ohs are good at.

    I don't think you'd regret going auto with a big turb it should spool quicker and stay on boost while you click gears.

    A lot of people seem to be using those Borg Warner s400/475 size things on 350 cube engines and doing well.
    Quote Originally Posted by RVK 355 View Post
    Hold it flat cunt

  3. #3
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    Will follow with interest.

  4. #4
    GOTCHYADICKINAGIN Hjtonner's Avatar
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    I sent Dale an message 3 weeks ago about efi for mine.........

    Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Chopped BigMuz's Avatar
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    My clutch isn't up to the job; which turbo do I need to fix it?
    Retard Honour Wall.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
    Rob Sloth Young did i ask for your opinion? no. i only want it for a paddock bomb. go play with traffic.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles View Post
    you stupid fucken imbicle.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles
    your are a fucken idiot of the highest level.

  6. #6
    BOOSTFARKIN
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motherfucker Jones View Post
    Go hydro roller. The lobes won't fall off and for something that only sees 6500 they're perfect. Make good power, don't have to run shit in or stress about oil choice so much. Also check your cam bearing clearance with whatever cam you use. Had dramas there before with losing oil pressure… something free ohs are good at.

    I don't think you'd regret going auto with a big turb it should spool quicker and stay on boost while you click gears.

    A lot of people seem to be using those Borg Warner s400/475 size things on 350 cube engines and doing well.
    Yep am getting more inclined to go the way of Hyd roller for these reasons was planning to do the 2under cam bearings.
    Also have done the restrict and front bearing cross over to drivers side of the block. Before sending off to machinist. I said that I'll fit the cam bearings myself.
    (have a metal lathe so will build a jig to do so).

    Have thought that the bog warmer would work well with auto and conventional placement of turbo.

    Being that hot side pipework is fairly long is the larger turbine size of s400 going to be a concern and manual was thinking the ball bearing would work betterer.


    Currently the China t04z copy is using a 0.86 turbine and comes on nicely around 2100rpm in 3rd.

    Its comes on so smooth it just feels boring.

    It's fairly good at staying spooled up during gears shifts and every person I taken for a run comments that they were expecting it to be laggy with pipe work length.

  7. #7
    BOOSTFARKIN
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigmuz View Post
    My clutch isn't up to the job; which turbo do I need to fix it?
    Standard type pf fix isn't it...


    It holds fine if not slipped into next gear got a feeling it's not engaging fast enough. As have crs hyd set up that uses Hg and earlier master and slave.

    Will up grade clutch to twin plate at least. Currently only got a dual friction plate and hd pressure plate deal
    Last edited by Morcs; 10-10-15 at 12:36 PM.

  8. #8
    never good enough ott308's Avatar
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    Go hyd roller. Go th400. Get a custom cam from a quality source. Keep the diff ratio. Spend big dollars on converter. Buy any 76mm turbo. I personally like girdle option. Smoke tyres ar highway speeds easy.

  9. #9
    Registered User TK's Avatar
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    1/2" main studs instead of girdle, girdle doesn't do squat - been there, done that.

    Definitely go auto, auto + turbo just works better.

    Hyd roller is a no brainer these days - Crow has the Morel lifters dirt cheap, but I'd go with crane for the cam.

    Use a good quality exhaust valve - ferrea 6000, manley race master etc.

    Use fel-pro race composition head gaskets - MLS just will not blow until after something else lets go, a composition gasket will let go before you hurt anything else, a fuse is a nice thing to have while you're ironing out the bugs.

  10. #10
    never good enough ott308's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TK View Post
    1/2" main studs instead of girdle, girdle doesn't do squat - been there, done that.
    Girdles not effective mate? I converted my 308 to 4 bolt and stud kit and wasn't impressed. Still get plenty of crank walk with girdles? I haven't used one but like the theory

  11. #11
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hjtonner View Post
    I sent Dale an message 3 weeks ago about efi for mine.........

    Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk
    really?? can you resend it?

    i have no PM's from you
    Last edited by 10sec rx7; 18-10-15 at 06:46 PM.
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  12. #12
    BOOSTFARKIN
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    Quote Originally Posted by TK View Post
    1/2" main studs instead of girdle, girdle doesn't do squat - been there, done that.

    Definitely go auto, auto + turbo just works better.

    Hyd roller is a no brainer these days - Crow has the Morel lifters dirt cheap, but I'd go with crane for the cam.

    Use a good quality exhaust valve - ferrea 6000, manley race master etc.

    Use fel-pro race composition head gaskets - MLS just will not blow until after something else lets go, a composition gasket will let go before you hurt anything else, a fuse is a nice thing to have while you're ironing out the bugs.

    Gathered you would say along those lines with girdle. Emailed me today saying all my stuff was done (have my eh 179 crank and another 308 crank being ground and balanced plus some rods resized etc on the same invoice).

    Yep auto would be nice cant quite convince the nopics yet it needs a gearbox. But might be able to do a kind of do a hand me down into the EH with the 5 speed and do a rebuild t400 for it etc just cant see it happening this side of of the financial year.
    Just bought a bobcat so kind hoping to pick some cash type jobs with it on the weekends ill see how i go.

    Custom grind hyd roller what kind of numbers should it be. Morels there the same as the straub ones from memory and can use the olds pontiac retrofit roller lifters to .
    I suppose as i mentioned earlier around 225 @50 round 520 lift on 114 lsa should be close enough.
    Thinking if its got the same kind of manners as the one currently in it ill be happy.
    Has a Camtech CT 5 533 in 222@50 512 ex 234@50 508 on 114 lsa cant remember the icl but set it up as per card icl.

    Ill be doing the heads other then facing off.

    Was planning to use composite gasket to start with as you have mentioned.
    Hoping now i should not need to use the fuse but will use until i get a handle on going to efi tuning. No local tuners that tune anything other then the generic commodore and ford stuff and have not got the greatest rep with there efi tuning abillity.
    Might be able to get it on the dyno and tweak myself later but there is some bonuses to living in the remote areas

    New motor has zero deck hawtness so wont get away with my old trusty reused red motor oem steel shim head gaskets on this motor .

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ott308 View Post
    Girdles not effective mate? I converted my 308 to 4 bolt and stud kit and wasn't impressed. Still get plenty of crank walk with girdles? I haven't used one but like the theory
    I read an article where some one actually tested all the different options it turns out bolt on girdles need to be much thicker than most are. The girdles you find on engines like the rb30 work because the caps are part of the girdle.

  14. #14
    GOTCHYADICKINAGIN Hjtonner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10sec rx7 View Post
    really?? can you resend it?

    i have no PM's from you
    It was through bookoffaces but I'll send one one here too.

    Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk

  15. #15
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    I get 100 messages a day on there don't take it personally if I didn't write back
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  16. #16
    BOOSTFARKIN
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    Did a bit on this shitbox a while back that being a mcleod twin plate clutch and a Mal Wood supplied concentric slave it sorted the issues with the clutch.

    Kind of thinking a pair of gt2871r could be pretty nice on this and think it could be packaged a bit better with the whole hidden placement things and should be pretty quick spooling.

    Heads are copping some double springs and some Manley valves.
    Some mild intake and a fairly good going over on the exhaust
    Custom hydro roller 233 @50 and 240 @ 50 with 545 lift on 112 lsa

  17. #17
    on hoes? yohoes's Avatar
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    Pair of gt2871s will be way too small..

    A mate is using a GTX42 on his 355 + 4L80e combo.. he is running a 3k stall so it flashes up to immediately being on boost, couldnt accurately tell you where it'd come on boost without the convertor

    Theres heaps of room, he's got a 4" dump off the turbo and a 66mm Precision gate sat in front of the motor

  18. #18
    on hoes? yohoes's Avatar
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    Just remembered i conveniently have a photo


  19. #19
    BOOSTFARKIN
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    Yeah cool.



    This is mine but a few years on from that pic. ie

    Cleaned up wiring further. Plus different master cylinder and proportioning valve. More socket head stainless bolt goodness and fixed an oil leak...Plus a few oem style stickers to try and confuse people further.
    Also changing the silver vent to the green body colour along with some black on the wipers.

    In that pic it is turboed ...

    Like i said packaging 2 smaller turbos might be a little easier then one larger one.

    On paper the twin gt28s are similar to the single gt42
    Last edited by Morcs; 15-03-16 at 07:13 PM.

  20. #20
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    Not that I know anything about these motors, but just keep in mind that a GT28 is basically a small upgrade for a 2L sr20

    I would have assumed that 2 of them on a 5L would still be small

  21. #21
    on hoes? yohoes's Avatar
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    Yea i was more thinking if a RB26 can spool them surely theyre way too small? Wouldve thought Gt30s would be the smallest you'd go?

  22. #22
    BOOSTFARKIN
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    Yes I agree with the gt28 being a good upgrade for a small 2 litre 4 valve motor. Essentially this is just 2 of them that will not rev to the rpm of the 2 - 2.5 litre will and with a 2 valve head the ve is down a bit also.
    In the lsx twin kits they are using the gt28-30. So I am thinking the 2876 or 2871 with a .86 rear housing could be a good setup.

    Have been kind of looking at the mamba turbo but but the cost of import changes I would think would push it up to be similar to what the garret would be anyway

  23. #23
    on hoes? yohoes's Avatar
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    Also, did i read that correctly - in the photo with the air cleaner, the motor is turbo'd?

    Is the air cleaner hiding pipe work?

  24. #24
    BOOSTFARKIN
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    Quote Originally Posted by yohoes View Post
    Also, did i read that correctly - in the photo with the air cleaner, the motor is turbo'd?

    Is the air cleaner hiding pipe work?

  25. #25
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Is that the up pipe slotting between the back of the drivers side head, wiper motor and clutch master?
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  26. #26
    BOOSTFARKIN
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Is that the up pipe slotting between the back of the drivers side head, wiper motor and clutch master?
    Yeah its matt black.

    It was at a car show the other week its funny the comments from the uninitiated.

    "its nice to see a near standard motor" LOL
    (well technically it is relatively)
    Few guys local have known about it for a while they must talk about it to the uninitiated then they come back hunting around trying to work it all out.

    Had an older mechanic miffed he recons he walked past and looked in the bay twice and still didn't work it out and someone even said to him it has a decent size hair drier on it.
    Was not until somebody pointed it all out that he under stood what was going on.
    If its going to be hard parked i normally drop the boost and afr gauges off so there is no give away in the interior also.

    Mission accomplished.

    It presents as a fairly tidy ol ute with a nice interior etc with a set of the 17inch gts looking wheels so most gather its just a cruiser.

    Now its time to step it up a bit further and change it so the numbnuts that keep on banging on about it at the show have even less of an idea next time.

    Well cam specs are changed again gone to IN233@50 and EX235@50 approx 560 lift on 114 on a hyd roller. This was my suggestion along with the machinist input he recons it will still be fairly conservative on the valve train so should be fairly reliable we just were both not 100% happy with the last one with the large forward split .
    Should be fairly tame sounding still and will setup things to run NA to iron the bugs out and learn to use the efi system that is planned with less risk to hurting motor straight away
    Last edited by Morcs; 17-03-16 at 02:27 AM.

  27. #27
    BOOSTFARKIN
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    Been doing a bit on this 355 of late cleaning up the block of casting flash polishing oil return areas tapping the oil gallerys to accept 3/8 npt plugs radiusing some of the oil gallerys that I could get the die grinder into.

    Drilled out oil returns in heads to 13mm.

    Blantnly copied TKs single pipe oil mod.


    Blatantly copied TK again by porting and shiming the oil pump and removing bypass valve.

    I am going to an external pick up and going to modify a sump to get a bit more capacity as pick up won't fit with girdle.

    What I'm hoping to do is incorporate a trap door setup and windage tray

  28. #28
    Registered User [TUFFVQ]'s Avatar
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    Nice work!

    With the single pipe mod, I seem to remember there was a blanking of the front gallery required - is that right? Or is that the more "full biscuit" oil rerouting?

  29. #29
    BOOSTFARKIN
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    Quote Originally Posted by [TUFFVQ] View Post
    Nice work!

    With the single pipe mod, I seem to remember there was a blanking of the front gallery required - is that right? Or is that the more "full biscuit" oil rerouting?
    In the full biscuit setup you would put a restrictior in to the gallery to reduced amount of oil to the lifters to stop it filling the rocker covers with sustained rpm

    I plan on using roll pins in the push rod trick to reduce some oil to the top end.

    As far as I'm aware the single pipe mod helps stabilise pressure at the furtherest end of the oil gallery as well as filling the gallery faster on start up

    http://www.aussiev8.com.au/holden/51...iling-fix.html
    Last edited by Morcs; 22-12-16 at 11:17 PM. Reason: Added a TK thread

  30. #30
    BOOSTFARKIN
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    Well since i got this thread moved i should probably throw a few more pics of the vehicle in question.
    With its shed mate after said car show


    And on a private road many years ago edo spec pic taken from a vid i no longer know the whereabouts of and in before skid pic requests

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