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  1. #31
    Goat roper Motherfucker Jones's Avatar
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    Those bigger inch GTS copies are about the only enlarged factory style wheel I like
    Quote Originally Posted by RVK 355 View Post
    Hold it flat cunt

  2. #32
    Spending money on cars Neeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morcs View Post

    I've been studying this picture for a good while now. And I still can't see anything turbo which leads me to both a statement and a question:

    Statement - fucking awesome
    Question - where the fuck is the turbo, then?
    Last edited by Neeek; 23-12-16 at 12:41 PM.

  3. #33
    Ellis Juan mizone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morcs View Post
    Hmmm I'll be out your way in a few days. Must remember to yell cunt at green ute if I see ya.

  4. #34
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    Nice ute cunt. That's minty fresh
    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .


  5. #35
    GOTCHYADICKINAGIN Hjtonner's Avatar
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    Blokes a thundercunt lol. Put auto in and I'll give ya Celica box for Eh and put decent gearbag in tonner.

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  6. #36
    BOOSTFARKIN Morcs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motherfucker Jones View Post
    Those bigger inch GTS copies are about the only enlarged factory style wheel I like
    I dont mind these but need to play with diff width a little.



    Quote Originally Posted by Neeek View Post
    I've been studying this picture for a good while now. And I still can't see anything turbo which leads me to both a statement and a question:

    Statement - fucking awesome
    Question - where the fuck is the turbo, then?
    Thanks
    Lol does this help


    Quote Originally Posted by mizone View Post
    Hmmm I'll be out your way in a few days. Must remember to yell cunt at green ute if I see ya.
    Yep fair call

    Quote Originally Posted by I'm DJ! View Post
    Nice ute cunt. That's minty fresh
    Thanks was just freshly painted about 15years ago lol

    Quote Originally Posted by Hjtonner View Post
    Blokes a thundercunt lol. Put auto in and I'll give ya Celica box for Eh and put decent gearbag in tonner.

    Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
    Meh ill set the nopics cat on you.
    You ya cunt im at home working on your shit instead of building motors whilst you are out stalking womenz.
    Last edited by Morcs; 24-12-16 at 07:53 PM.

  7. #37
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    Ah that is a lovely installation there...really neat.

  8. #38
    GOTCHYADICKINAGIN Hjtonner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morcs View Post
    I dont mind these but need to play with diff width a little.





    Thanks
    Lol does this help




    Yep fair call



    Thanks was just freshly painted about 15years ago lol



    Meh ill set the nopics cat on you.
    You ya cunt im at home working on your shit instead of building motors whilst you are out stalking womenz.
    Have offered to send cat into orbit, for science of course!

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  9. #39
    on hoes? yohoes's Avatar
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    Fuck yea i forgot about this thing

  10. #40
    Registered User gtrboyy's Avatar
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    Curious where that top heater hose goes...manifold water passage or turbo?

    With aircleaner on it looks heaps neater.Liking those gts copies.
    an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

  11. #41
    BOOSTFARKIN Morcs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy928tt View Post
    Ah that is a lovely installation there...really neat.
    Thanks. Im hoping with the new motor I am building will be at least as neat as the current one if not neater with less hoses and breathers visable.

    Quote Originally Posted by gtrboyy View Post
    Curious where that top heater hose goes...manifold water passage or turbo?

    With the HX model they have a flap that diverts the air onto the heater core so not needing a heater tap.
    With the ol holden when lent on a bit they can get steam pockets causing the head gaskets to go as there is not a lot water movement in the back of the motor this helps get it moving




    With aircleaner on it looks heaps neater.Liking those gts copies.
    Cheers thanks i agree. Its got bigger brakes all round so need something to clear them and look stockish

  12. #42
    GOTCHYADICKINAGIN Hjtonner's Avatar
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    new motor in yet? skids not loading

  13. #43
    BOOSTFARKIN Morcs's Avatar
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    Well finally got a bit done after pf cunt hjtonner was over to clean and start assembly of my 355.
    Firstly doing the rear main seal with my buck that i have made up so it makes it easier to check if rear bearing carrier is seated properly. Previously i would just clean and use a large socket and do my best to try sneak the feeler gauge in to check if rear bearing cap has seated by temp fitting the crank. This way is so much easier not to mention less chance of damaging the crank.

    I didnt get a pic with the 3rd bearing holder as there is 3 different sized bearings... Also showed in the pic of the hyd roller cam before installation.

    Checking bearing clearance on the mains between 2-3 thou

    After cleaning parts again ready for final assembly.
    Last edited by Morcs; 30-12-16 at 12:42 PM.

  14. #44
    BOOSTFARKIN Morcs's Avatar
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    Well started ring gapping aiming for .022" on the top .0235" on the second ring.
    As you can see crank cam and timing gear is in.

    This a little more accurate then the grinder lol.

    Spiro Locks are so much fun.


    So i have got 3 down ready for cleaning and fitting rings but will fit no 1 and then degree the cam

  15. #45
    BOOSTFARKIN Morcs's Avatar
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    Well happy new years cunts.

    I was on call and ended up with 3 call outs on NYE yeah fuckin hah and therefore be very unAustralian and not drink at new years.
    Still managed to get a bit done nye that included finish gaping rings,finish fitting spiro locks and rings on pistons and get piston and conrod assembly cleaned ready for installation.
    Did fit the rings on the pistons after dinner watching TV with the nopics.


    NYD i managed to escape any callouts but still probably worked harder then i do at work lol.

    I put number 1 piston in the hole and proceed to start finding out if the cam and crank line up properly at zero it didnt it was around 3 degrees advanced so bang it on the -2 and reassemble and recheck around 15 to far pulled crank socket then had lined up coloured link on the zero mark instead of -2 slipped the chain around to correct tooth. Zeroed everything up again it sitting about 1/2 a degree advance to where the cam card suggests close enough.
    I did use a piston stop method which is not captured in this photo i had just chucked it in the parts washer and wanted to check deck height all the pistons are all down the hole around .005".


    By the end of NYD nopics and I had installed and set bearing clearance on the big ends along with completing the rotating assembly including the stud girdle. The brown on things is not shit it is rust staining from washing with hot soapy water then towel dried it along with a blow gun and still could not stop it.


    Showing bottom end with the earlier ill for mentioned stud girdle.


    Nopics and I mainly had a clean up day after checking sweep pattern of the rocker geometry so i could order pushrods which ended up with 8.150" 5/16 ones.



    Just few shots showing the porting etc








    Turning the block into an echidna

    Torquing down in 3 equal steps

    This is were i have to wait for more parts and toys to be picked up.



    Has anybody used KBS motor coater thought i might give it a try this time and see how it goes.

  16. #46
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    Sweeeet !

  17. #47
    Registered User [TUFFVQ]'s Avatar
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    Looking gooooood.
    What thickness Head Gaskets have you gone with? Felpro Blue?

  18. #48
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    Nice one. Even nicer one to get your nopics involved aside from the fact it makes it harder to lie about what parts actually cost.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimi View Post
    80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
    Quote Originally Posted by schnitzelburger View Post
    My entire working career pretty much consists of suckin dick and takin names.

    Sometimes im too busy to take names.

  19. #49
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    What pistons did you use and still end up 0.005" down the hole?
    Quote Originally Posted by Dogsballs View Post
    I'd rather put a 253 than efi

  20. #50
    BOOSTFARKIN Morcs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy928tt View Post
    Sweeeet !
    Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by [TUFFVQ] View Post
    Looking gooooood.
    What thickness Head Gaskets have you gone with? Felpro Blue?
    Yeah the felpro teflon blue i asked machinist to supply gasket kit they supplied an endurotec kit from precision.
    Which like TK and machinist said treat them as a fuse.
    These end up at around .038" i think compressed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sketchy View Post
    Nice one. Even nicer one to get your nopics involved aside from the fact it makes it harder to lie about what parts actually cost.
    Thanks have been collecting bits for over 12 months it is good to finally see it start coming together.
    Shit I have actually had this block close to 15years

    Yep nopics is a good sport when it comes to working on the cars and stuff most times nopics comes out with more grease and muck on her then i do lol.
    I think it helps that the shed is just through the door off the lounge.
    Cant really hide too much from nopics as i send nearly everything to her work.
    Nopics is nagging me about EH but boostfarkin is winning atm .
    Im currently requesting for a hoist atm as gearbag on EH is sieve like and i want to redo hot side pipe work i am refusing to wrestle filthy dirty traumatic out of EH to repair.
    But keep buying other toys for the shed.


    Quote Originally Posted by chartreusehj View Post
    What pistons did you use and still end up 0.005" down the hole?
    All supplied and machined by the same shop.
    They are SRP pistons with 16cc dish.
    Using scat crank and 5.700 Large journal H beam rods
    As if there was going to be problem i could push it back on them.

  21. #51
    Registered User [TUFFVQ]'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morcs View Post
    Thanks

    Yeah the felpro teflon blue i asked machinist to supply gasket kit they supplied an endurotec kit from precision.
    Which like TK and machinist said treat them as a fuse.
    These end up at around .038" i think compressed.
    .
    Yep that makes sense.

  22. #52
    GOTCHYADICKINAGIN Hjtonner's Avatar
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    Skids??

    Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

  23. #53
    BOOSTFARKIN Morcs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hjtonner View Post
    Skids??

    Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
    Please refer to post #30.

    Shitstirring nopics /cat in the ac was of higher importance then being in the shed yesterday.
    Still managed to mark out hiwinder manifold in readiness for a bit of a scratch later this week.

  24. #54
    BOOSTFARKIN Morcs's Avatar
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    Well started scratching the itch mostly got the port mostly roughed out on the outlets the light was doing funny things its actually not bad when using the inside calipers on the roughish looking ports using a fast cut burr tends to make it look like shit as well for me. By the time i go over it with the cartridge rolls it will be fine as well as finish the roughing out with a flame shaped burr.
    Showing some alignment issues may use a little of the devcon stuff to fill the ports to bring back the alignment of the 2 mismatches.

    Starting to get into it



    This side is a bit better in that i have something to grind all the way round

    My rough and ready shot where i left it for the night


    My decision to go the hi winder is that i cannot fit the COME 4bbl manifold under the bonnet with my carb hat and carby arrangement.
    COME manifold is drilled for injectors already so have tucked that away for now untill i work out what efi setup i am going to use.

    I did some rough and ready measurements that the hiwinder is around 40mm higher then the torker manifold that is on it currently which only has around 15mm with the bonnet propped up a little at the back i can machine roughly 20-25mm off the carb flange may be able to lay the angle of the carby back have not measured things enough yet to know what is what.

    Going to do wonders for the flow etc but do not want reverse cowl bonnet. So will be doing all i can which will probably include changing to a different hat maybe may have to cut the support in the bonnet not sure yet

  25. #55
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    If i can dig up exactly how much gain to convince you, cutting injector notches to match the heads was worth doing. TK probably knows.

    I'll try and find the info from when mine was done but it was quite a few years ago now.

    Milling the flange might hurt but as you say, its secondary to keeping the bonnet closed.

    Why not brace and weld up a stock air cleaner housing and use it instead of the hat or make something that looks factory but will hold boosts?

    Also consider giving the underside of the manifold a heat reducing coating. Don't forget to drill/tap the rear water ports in the manifold and you can fit a decent size breather port behind the carb pad as well.
    Last edited by chartreusehj; 19-01-17 at 08:22 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dogsballs View Post
    I'd rather put a 253 than efi

  26. #56
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    There is room to drop the engine mounts 1/2", any more and the sump is in the crossmember and draglink, you could probably machine up a 1/2" spacer to sit under the chassis mount rubbers for the body.

    It's only an inch but every little bit counts (that's what I tell nopics anyway )
    Quote Originally Posted by Dogsballs View Post
    I'd rather put a 253 than efi

  27. #57
    BOOSTFARKIN Morcs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chartreusehj View Post
    If i can dig up exactly how much gain to convince you, cutting injector notches to match the heads was worth doing. TK probably knows.

    I'll try and find the info from when mine was done but it was quite a few years ago now.

    Milling the flange might hurt but as you say, its secondary to keeping the bonnet closed.

    Why not brace and weld up a stock air cleaner housing and use it instead of the hat or make something that looks factory but will hold boosts?

    Also consider giving the underside of the manifold a heat reducing coating. Don't forget to drill/tap the rear water ports in the manifold and you can fit a decent size breather port behind the carb pad as well.
    I wondered about the notches it would make sense that more flow area on the roof could be beneficial especially with the intention of being boosted.
    Stock air cleaners are $ for these now i have 2 of but do not want to chop chop on them.
    Although i had looked into it when originally putting carb hat on and had a piece of sheet metal rolled to the right size for a standard lid size this might be a good opportunity to try a velocity type stack inside kind of like this.


    Yep on the breather and water crossover behind carb was also thinking fuel pump block off plate also.
    Got all the speedflow weld on fittings to go from rocker covers to sump aswell.

    Quote Originally Posted by chartreusehj View Post
    There is room to drop the engine mounts 1/2", any more and the sump is in the crossmember and draglink, you could probably machine up a 1/2" spacer to sit under the chassis mount rubbers for the body.
    It's only an inch but every little bit counts (that's what I tell nopics anyway )
    Meh i am going to pick up sheetmetal for sump today as long as sump clears crank,rods and girdle in the front all shall be good so will mod sump a bit before fitting so will not have to yank motor after it finds its way in.

    Well cleaned my RUG roughing out a bit more bit more to go with the cartridge wheels.


    And a bit more RUG roughing on the inside



    Will need angled die grinder me thinks for much more internal work.

    I suppose if it doesn't work the amount of alloy that i have chewed out is weight saving at least.

  28. #58
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    There is a huge difference in flow and velocity between the inner 2 vs outer 2 runners so I wouldn't sweat it too much. The biggest gains on that manifold come from match porting the runner exits and cutting the notch.

    It takes a fair bit of effort to go further than that.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dogsballs View Post
    I'd rather put a 253 than efi

  29. #59
    BOOSTFARKIN Morcs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chartreusehj View Post
    There is a huge difference in flow and velocity between the inner 2 vs outer 2 runners so I wouldn't sweat it too much. The biggest gains on that manifold come from match porting the runner exits and cutting the notch.

    It takes a fair bit of effort to go further than that.
    After spending some time staring at this lump of alloy I would say that is not quite right.
    I'm no expert as evidence by my porting attempts lol.

    My understanding is opening the port up after a restriction only adds to slowing down the air charge.
    From my thinking a reverse taper works fairly well at slowing the air down...
    So I am making the entry into the ports to help the air turn a more gradual corner and try getting it to taper down to the runner size then open up runner size mainly focussing on straightening as much as possible the runner by mainly grinding on the inside of the corner and at least trying to get runner to head port width.

    Looks like I can get nearly a parallel width port with a bit of work with the new angle die grinder it is taking a bit to get used to it and really struggling with doing the roof or the floor with it but having success with the walls and experimenting with different shaped cutters/burrs I'm learning how to get some better control with it and will only get better with practice.
    Last edited by Morcs; 20-01-17 at 11:18 PM.

  30. #60
    Goat roper Motherfucker Jones's Avatar
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    I think being boosted you'll have to try pretty hard to fuck it up. More volume is more air in and the pressure should fill the gaps. Once you efi I think it will be even less critical, or will that be another manifold swap?
    Quote Originally Posted by RVK 355 View Post
    Hold it flat cunt

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