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Thread: Eds Lotus 116 GT3

  1. #811
    Weeeeee XXX19X's Avatar
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    Sick giant go-kart.

  2. #812
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiroshimascreamer View Post
    That looks fucking awesome.
    ... and already lost on the new page! Can't have that



    Quote Originally Posted by clutch-monkey View Post
    looks like a pleasant spot in the world too.
    This is one of the nicest things when going to go work on the car. Get away from it all, serene farmlands, just nice tranquil countryside
    Last edited by doctor ed; 06-10-17 at 08:02 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  3. #813
    Registered User peal's Avatar
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    Going to be epic once completed. How do you find time to do this on top of work? Sounds like I need to start working in Germany.

  4. #814
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    80% part time job (theoretically 1 day off a week, but doesnt feel like it at present). plus a nopics who's happy to see me disappear out of the house and take a kid with me

    that said, have an exam in 4 weeks, i should probably do some study...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  5. #815
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Been brewing over undertray aero... I'm wanting to mount the longest steepest diffuser i can pack into the rear under the GT3 rear bodywork, and I want it to pump, so i have been thinking a bit about air control along the floor entering into it. The floorpan is pretty much a dead-flat saltlake, so I want to make the most of what's there whilst realising the limits of working with what I've got. Splitter design I've got a few ideas, but in terms of the diffuser, I thought I'd give these things a crack...

    Ignoring the 'fuel-saver' marketing jazz, these little buggers are pretty damn good vortex generators (each tab creates 2 decent sized siamesed counter-rotating vortices). Planning a line of them, located late along the flat floorpan say 20cm before the leading edge of the diffuser. Idea being that they themselves drop local pressure a little, but more importantly they'll energise the boundary layer entering the diffuser, and let me use every degree and cm length of it.



    May also try something similar along the sill-lines to help seal the sides. I'm planning turning vanes behind the front wheel wells (which themselves may throw off a vortex) so not sure. But that's the direction of thinking at least.
    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  6. #816
    Registered User darkside's Avatar
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    Reading the above makes it clear why I was never going to get the grades to do medicine. Such a well thought out project.

  7. #817
    Registered User Sonicevo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doctor ed View Post
    ... and already lost on the new page! Can't have that



    This is one of the nicest things when going to go work on the car. Get away from it all, serene farmlands, just nice tranquil countryside

    Looks great, coming together well 👍 Must admit one of the great things about Germany is all the farmlands and forests, I really will miss it when i head back to Oz, the countryside here is so lush and green, fantastic for mountain biking coz not too steep and so much to explore.

    Looking forward to you blowing me into the weeds when you come down for the maiden Bavaria run 😀

  8. #818
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Alps road trip summer 2018? I'll only be getting 4-10 rego for this thing, so even if it's running around Xmas, won't have rego till April. Alternative would be road trip Norway... also on my bucket list
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  9. #819
    Registered User Sonicevo's Avatar
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    We'll definitely have to do a Nurburgring stint, maybe a spa + nurburgring track combination. My cars will be on a boat to Oz in Oct/Nov 2018 so it will need to be before then. I only did one track day this year so keen to do quite a few next year.

  10. #820
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Mundane progress is still progress... both the replacement clutch cyl and the Saab donor chassis use some funky quick disconnect system, along with an integrated bleeder fitting. Lotus/vx std clutch line uses M10 flare fittings.

    So. Made up some replacement hardlines, bought a 3-way brass fitting and a bleeder nipple. Done-ski.

    Now, I was planning on mounting the box to the motor, and dropping it all as a single unit into the engine bay, but I'm thinking I might actually get the box and driveshafts in first, and get everything hooked up and working (including clutch hydraulics etc). There should then still be enough room to slot the engine in, along with enough wiggle-room to get the input shaft through the clutch into the flywheel etc. I can see me swearing about this and regretting it later, but it'll get the box out of the way plus let me get a bunch of other stuff in that corner done too





    Last edited by doctor ed; 11-10-17 at 07:05 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  11. #821
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    Great stuff , it really is coming together now..
    " Money is for those without skills"

  12. #822
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Yep! Im muddling over coolant lines at present. It's like an overturned bowl of spaghetti. this car truly is from the GM parts bin. Don't even start me on the petrol vapour trap and charcoal canister system. Either way though... these are things that mean the motor is getting close to going in!

    Just realised having re-read another post... I manually compressed my concentric slave cyl when I took it out of the box. Apparently this is a massive no-no. Now a bit nervous that I fucked something and it'll leak when installed under pressure. Ugh. It's a 80 slave, not to mention the fuck-about of having to replace it if it leaks once the motor is in.

    I'll mount the gearbox and get the clutch hydraulics working I think. Try and stress it a bit and see if it leaks before I get the motor in later.
    Last edited by doctor ed; 11-10-17 at 08:43 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  13. #823
    Registered User schnitzelburger's Avatar
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    might be able to bench test it if u own something like a motive pressure bleeder

    i would try jerry rig something before it all goes in.

    i have installed a gearbox without setting up the fork properly before, such a shitty feeling.
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  14. #824
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doctor ed View Post
    Yep! Im muddling over coolant lines at present. It's like an overturned bowl of spaghetti. this car truly is from the GM parts bin. Don't even start me on the petrol vapour trap and charcoal canister system. Either way though... these are things that mean the motor is getting close to going in!

    Just realised having re-read another post... I manually compressed my concentric slave cyl when I took it out of the box. Apparently this is a massive no-no. Now a bit nervous that I fucked something and it'll leak when installed under pressure. Ugh. It's a 80 slave, not to mention the fuck-about of having to replace it if it leaks once the motor is in.

    I'll mount the gearbox and get the clutch hydraulics working I think. Try and stress it a bit and see if it leaks before I get the motor in later.
    Shouldn't be an issue - the slave gets compressed dry when you screw the engine and box together anyway.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  15. #825
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    From what I can see the main problem is the backplate popping out when it's compressed without being mounted/supported from the rear. That's easy enough to check, and I think a catastrophic seal issue will be pretty obvious with testing under low/medium pressure
    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  16. #826
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    The updated to do list

    Small fiddly stuff:
    - finish routing the front wiring harness
    - mount new radiator, and front cooler circuit hoses.
    - Need a new Spal fan, the old one sounds like a helicopter
    - make undertray air deflector panel with small vortex generators
    - maybe source some 997 gt3 brake cooling deflectors - so close! dont quite sit right, need better mounting solution
    - run wire from a dash pot to the exhaust for 'loud valve' control
    - tidy up center console area, tuck the wiring away, finish it off.
    - route rear heater circuit hoses

    Medium sized fuckaround stuff:
    - mount the gearbox and get it definitively hooked up
    - modify/make new exhaust/muffler hanging Mounts (so close!)
    - sort out the heat exchanger piping and fittings
    - sort out heat exchanger thermostat and fans
    - fix small crack I just caused in the rear wheel arch, bugger
    - make rearview mirror indicator lights?
    - sort out main coolant hoses in the engine bay (needs T-fittings for expansion tank circuit etc)

    Large stuff that i need to do properly:
    - bond the rear Firewall back to the rollhoop
    - design and make a new rear Firewall section to enclose the W2A intercooler core
    - reweld the W2A core water fittings to suit 25mm ID hose (in progress)
    - reweld the inlet fittings for the heat-exchanger

    For the rollcage guy:
    - design and make new rear roll-hoop support stays / rear clam support
    - design and make new harness bar
    - design and make rear toe link support bar

    Random bits down the immediate priority list
    - flywheel Version 2 is in the works due to stuff-up with Version 1
    - intake pipework
    - exhaust pipework (working on it!)
    - put engine in!

    Things to buy
    - new portable soldering iron

    The updated done stuff

    Small fiddly stuff to do first:
    - retrace the ABS (FL) and DRB (RR) cutout wires, and mark the switches (memory is failing)
    - rerun thermostat sensor wire down the sill to the back of the car
    - rewire new relay and rerun run fan control wires down the sill to the back of the car
    - rewire a new rad fan override switch/relay/loom
    - replace one dodgy dash switch
    - refit the heater control panel and heater piping/valve assembly. set the cable in final position
    - wire up and finish installing the 6sp reverse lockout mechanism
    - pull the shifter and handbrake cables through the chassis in preperation for the engine/gearbox install
    - replace the airbag and pretensioner control module (bought a new one as itll suck to find the one ive got doesnt work once other shit is finished)
    - mount new driver seat mounts and enjoy the newfound legroom
    - set rivnuts in the floor for the shifter assembly and reinforce the fucking flex thing
    - fit pk5-880 alternator belt

    Medium sized fuck around stuff:
    - Swap the ABS control module for the 4chan Deawoo one I got (S108196010 C)
    - Bend up new brake cross-over hardlines and fit to the ABS pump
    - Finish the fueltank/pump wiring and speedflow hose assembly, and remount the tank
    - Finish the speedflow lines to the 044 and surgetank
    - mount the brake fluid reservoir and hoses to the master cyl- need to sort some fucking Fittings (fuck you!)

    Large stuff I need to do properly:
    - Fit and bond new crashbox
    - Fit and bond new windscreen surround
    - Jig up and reweld the hardtop mounts to the rollbar
    - design and make the W2A core mounting brackets

    Random bits down the immediate priority list :
    - need to get me some reinforced motor mount bushes
    - i busted the reverse switch on the box off. oops
    - need to mount a new clutch slave cyl to avoid that sinking feeling of a leaking clutch once all assembled
    - Need to make up slave cyl hoses including a bleeder port for the single hosed concentric slave
    - figure out the layout of this goddamn coolant circuit

    Bought
    - clutch lines/splitter/bleeder
    - more loom tape
    - stainless bar stock


    Last edited by doctor ed; 15-10-17 at 10:30 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  17. #827
    Registered User Justengt4's Avatar
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    I see a familiar pair of lists there...the 'to do' list growing faster than the 'it's done' lol .....cracking progress nonetheless 👍
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  18. #828
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    yeah... i might go flee to the shed this arvo and even the lists out a little bit
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  19. #829
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    I really should be having a study day... ughhh... but...

    chopped the W2A core to prep it for 25mm fittings. orginally has 18mm fittings with a 14mm hole. yeah, nah. but how to open up the holes? intercooler core is right there. ha! sacrificial step drill to the rescue. id actually already fucked this drill around the 8-12mm range, so it was perfect. basically just used the angle grinder to progressively chop the steps off, meaning there wasnt any 'plunge' depth to the bit. ream to required size, chop off that shoulder, ream up the next size. went from 14-22mm pretty damn quick actually.





    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  20. #830
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Nice.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  21. #831
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    maximum possible flow. going to be a raging torrent of water. hopefully make up for the smallish volume of the system and my questionable heat-exchanger idea (running water through the previous A2A intercooler core)
    Last edited by doctor ed; 13-10-17 at 09:33 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  22. #832
    Registered User Justengt4's Avatar
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    Volume is good but you don't want too hectic a flow...needs time to allow the heat exchange to happen so there's an optimum flow rate....get a variable controller for your pump and be able to test and tweak until you find it....sounds right up your alley 😊
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  23. #833
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    common misconception

    absolute temperature difference drives the energy transfer. nothing about contact time (does the water ever not have contact!). ideally you need to get the fluid moving as fast as possible*. that rapidly equalises highs and lows of temp in the fluid system and ensures the lowest possible overall water temp (and subsequent energy absorption capability). as always its not a linear realtionship, but more flow = better cooling

    *assuming your system doesnt suck dicks and has a pump that ends up creating more heat than the system is taking out.
    Last edited by doctor ed; 13-10-17 at 09:40 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  24. #834
    Registered User Justengt4's Avatar
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    Hmmm not my experience with the GTFour a/w.....1st mod is to bypass the factory pump controller which then makes it run full voltage all the time. A definite improvement....I extended the logic with a higher flowing pump and went backwards? a long time ago now and I can't recall now where the explanation came from but it did seem to make sense and matched what I was seeing....but, thinking on your response that also makes sense ie more molecules of water but absorbing less energy each?
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  25. #835
    no mods, leave it stock Jack Nicholson's Avatar
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    It's a good thing if the water/coolant coming out of the chargecooler is getting hot, this means it's pulling heat out of the charge air and transferring it to the liquid.

    The ideal arrangement would be;

    Coolant going in to the chargecooler, nice and cold
    Coolant coming out of the chargecooler, hot
    Coolant going into the heat exchanger, still hot
    Coolant coming out of the heat exchanger, to the chargecooler, nice and cold.

    Ok if you increase the flow rate then perhaps the coolant doesn't get as hot, but the goal is to pull heat out of the charge air, so if the coolant isn't getting warm on the way out of the chargecooler, i'd be wondering how effective it actually is...

    Have you got a temp sensor to measure the charge air temps coming out of the chargecooler?
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  26. #836
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    The rate of heat transfer is dependant on the temperature differential between the two things in contact. If you leave a body of water in contact with the heat source for say 5secs, it will warm up. As it warms up, the rate of heat transfer into it slows down (temperature differential gets smaller). Best to move that warm water out of the way and bring along some lower temp water. In the same 5 secs in contact with cooler water you'll achieve a higher rate of heat transfer (ie, your heat source will be cooled lower, faster). So generally best to get the water passing through as quick as possible so the lowest possible water temp is in contact with your heat source.

    PS, yep, have temp sensor.
    PPS. If fluid coming out of the charge cooler is 'hot', then things aren't optimised. Think of it in units of heat the water is carrying out of the charge cooler. A slow flow of hot fluid will carry say 10 units of heat out over 1 min. A faster flowing fluid that perhaps only feels luke warm, will flow twice as much volume over that same period of a minute, but that lukewarm water at double the volume flow will still give you 10 heat units over a minute. The important thing here is: the lukewarm water will drive a faster rate of heat transfer out of the heat source, so over that minute it's probably transferring more like 11 or 12 units out of the heat source, compared to the hot water which can only achieve the 10units in that time due to the slower heat transfer rate.
    Last edited by doctor ed; 13-10-17 at 10:35 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  27. #837
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
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    *chemical engineer hat on*

    ed is right, the rest of you are wrong. justen the issue you had with it not working as well with a bigger pump would have been caused by something else, maybe cavitation or something. but the rules around heat transfer make it very clear that the faster your working fluids get through a heat exchanger the better it works to exchange said heat

    *chemical engineer hat off*

    carry on :P

  28. #838
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trdee View Post
    ed is right, the rest of you are wrong.
    Last edited by doctor ed; 14-10-17 at 04:03 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  29. #839
    Registered User jimmyg's Avatar
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    When you cut the hole for the charge cooling. Lol. Epic.

    Thankyou for you build thread. Beers on me in town.
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  30. #840
    Registered User Justengt4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trdee View Post
    *chemical engineer hat on*

    ed is right, the rest of you are wrong. justen the issue you had with it not working as well with a bigger pump would have been caused by something else, maybe cavitation or something. but the rules around heat transfer make it very clear that the faster your working fluids get through a heat exchanger the better it works to exchange said heat

    *chemical engineer hat off*

    carry on :P
    Yeah cool, get that, still open to learning how shit should work and does work
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