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Thread: Eds Lotus 116 GT3

  1. #1591
    no mods, leave it stock Jack Nicholson's Avatar
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    Cool!

    I suggested one of the complete rear view mirror units so you could have the reverse cam image up all the time, and in natural position for a mirror.

    If you only want it for reversing then using the dash is an easy solution, but i thought seeing out the back all the time might be more useful, on the track for example.
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  2. #1592
    Registered User schnitzelburger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Nicholson View Post
    Cool!

    I suggested one of the complete rear view mirror units so you could have the reverse cam image up all the time, and in natural position for a mirror.

    If you only want it for reversing then using the dash is an easy solution, but i thought seeing out the back all the time might be more useful, on the track for example.
    yeah was under the same impression here

  3. #1593
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    yup, also had that idea, and can simply mount my iPhone to the windscreen to achieve the same thing
    Mit freundlichen Grüße

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  4. #1594
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    playing around with swan neck mounts and endplate design

    seems a bit big
    endplate was based roughly on a few cfd papers i read, but its all one massive guess, and would need a wind tunnel at least to say if its even kindve correct. ill link some interesting articles when im on the laptop later. either way though, its pretty. but now photoshopped together, it could be made a little prettier.

    edit:
    end plate CFD article: https://www.jmranalytical.com/single...-Investigation
    unrelated but cool story on the history of f1 aero: https://community.plm.automation.sie...cs/ba-p/488689



    Last edited by doctor ed; 05-07-19 at 09:58 PM.
    Mit freundlichen Grüße

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  5. #1595
    Registered User schnitzelburger's Avatar
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    the aerodynamicist may have an issue with the bricks tho.

    is there any likelihood that the front will be affected by downforce behind the rear wheel, and generally being fairly light as it is with engine in the back?

  6. #1596
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    yup. 2 things to consider though: im trying to use the wing to pump the diffuser, and the low pressure point of the diffuser is in front of he wheels. but yeah the wing will also create its own downforce, and that will unweight the front wheels, bringing me to point 2, front aero ... lots more work to do! ive made the swan neck with enough adjustability to give me a 'neutral' AoA of 8deg, which i can vary in 1deg increments giving +- 5deg... so from +3 to +13deg AoA. enough headroom to play with balance at the front.

    have been reading some interesting ideas on splatter function, need to get some ideas onto paper. also need to finish the CAD work so i can get stuff cut and finish the back...
    Last edited by doctor ed; 05-07-19 at 09:00 AM.
    Mit freundlichen Grüße

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  7. #1597
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    And in a low budget project binky spin-off... I’ve spent 2 days making brackets. First effort got binned after eyeball-o-meter didagreed with maths, and now I present version 2: camloc quick release roof.






  8. #1598
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    well another job that took longer than anticipated, lol...

    not particularly versed in things lotus, i hit up some lotus forums to check out how these rear lights are supposed to work. yeah, well apparently that's not a simple question. lotus made the lights a certain way, then due to EU something something decided to rewire them and blank some bulb holders to meet some certification, but in the US they got a different wiring layout because the yanks like to indicate with their brake lights or some shit. LHD/RHD has issues with single sided fog lights and deleted reverse wiring etc. ugh, headache.

    then, to make it more fun, lotus ppls have decided that the lights are *the* thing to modify, so there's 100's of posts and pics of modified lights with hacked wiring, diy LEDs etc

    so at the end of all this ive not really got any idea how the std EU lights are supposed to be wired / light up. my lights and the bulbs and holders they have resembled nothing of the examples i found online. and even then, one light circuit looks to be half wired, but has never been connected to the main loom, and has never functioned. wtf.

    so i made up my own, park, brake and turn are hooked up and working. reverse (which ill make function on both sides) needs to be modified in the harness sub loom. and the foglight... thats only supposed to work on the left (drivers) side, im currently using that bulb as part of the complete brake display. i need to make a mini sub loom with a 2 relays so i can illuminate that bulb from both a brake input, and the foglight input (without them crossing over). need to make sure im not overloading the harness and fuses of the brake circuit with 168W of brake lighting. might have a look at some LEDs to drop the current demand.

    so, adapter loom from the single VX to the twin Lotus lamps



    and the light sequence ive currently got working (no idea if this is normal, or what?)

    turn


    park


    brake
    Last edited by doctor ed; 10-07-19 at 08:09 AM.
    Mit freundlichen Grüße

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  9. #1599
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    round peg in a square hole time...

    need to try and blend the curvy rear quarters and air intake with the square door and body of the vx. the swoop of the door line and the curve into the air intake is one of the defining features of the exige shape and flow. can't really afford to fuck this up, as it'll look like ass if its not right







    Mit freundlichen Grüße

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  10. #1600
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doctor ed View Post
    well another job that took longer than anticipated, lol...

    not particularly versed in things lotus, i hit up some lotus forums to check out how these rear lights are supposed to work. yeah, well apparently that's not a simple question. lotus made the lights a certain way, then due to EU something something decided to rewire them and blank some bulb holders to meet some certification, but in the US they got a different wiring layout because the yanks like to indicate with their brake lights or some shit. LHD/RHD has issues with single sided fog lights and deleted reverse wiring etc. ugh, headache.

    then, to make it more fun, lotus ppls have decided that the lights are *the* thing to modify, so there's 100's of posts and pics of modified lights with hacked wiring, diy LEDs etc

    so at the end of all this ive not really got any idea how the std EU lights are supposed to be wired / light up. my lights and the bulbs and holders they have resembled nothing of the examples i found online. and even then, one light circuit looks to be half wired, but has never been connected to the main loom, and has never functioned. wtf.

    so i made up my own, park, brake and turn are hooked up and working. reverse (which ill make function on both sides) needs to be modified in the harness sub loom. and the foglight... thats only supposed to work on the left (drivers) side, im currently using that bulb as part of the complete brake display. i need to make a mini sub loom with a 2 relays so i can illuminate that bulb from both a brake input, and the foglight input (without them crossing over). need to make sure im not overloading the harness and fuses of the brake circuit with 168W of brake lighting. might have a look at some LEDs to drop the current demand.

    so, adapter loom from the single VX to the twin Lotus lamps



    and the light sequence ive currently got working (no idea if this is normal, or what?)

    turn


    park


    brake
    Is the rear fog light in the light cluster or remote mounted? Iirc the fog light must be more than 100mm from the nearest brake light, and dual purposing the foglight to act as a brake light as well is an absolute no-no.

  11. #1601
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Fog light isn’t even connected, but „would“ be the inner most segment which is also currently a brake light. Realistically though, this setup (widebody GT3) is never going to get a street registration. I’ve kept everything under the bodywork std (or engineerable/certifiable) though, so hot-swapping the original body (and lights) for street rego / use is how I think this is going to unfold. It takes about 5 mins to take the whole GT3 body off. Prob a good 30mins to put the std body on.
    Last edited by doctor ed; 18-07-19 at 09:56 PM.

  12. #1602
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Ah, righto. Different setup to what I remember working on them back in 2001. Apart from that I can't see any issues with your lights, I'd run a central mounted rear foglight even if you're only going to track it though.

  13. #1603
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    For the track i would ignore the foglights and run an FIA Rain Light.

    The Cartek 3 mode ones seem pretty popular: https://www.cartekmotorsport.com/fia-rain-light/
    Chris
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  14. #1604
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    i did the rounds through the MSA/FIA rain lights a while ago. the cartek is certainly a good one, but fuck me drunk its a bit spendy for a few blinking LEDs

    theres a couple of more sanely priced options, in particular i like this one which is bothe MSA compliant, and E-makred for use as a fog light: https://www.competitionsupplies.com/...e-msa-approved

    its going to look like balls when mounted. maybe i can integrate it into the middle of the rear mesh. hmmm. scratches head
    Mit freundlichen Grüße

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  15. #1605
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Yeah, it is pretty spendy. Its the certification that sucks, because the actual hardware is about $10.
    Chris
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  16. #1606
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Continuing my trend of finding things to do that don’t bring the car closer to actually driving.... I made a spring loaded window net release, taking advantage of the oem Hardtops fixation points.





    Last edited by doctor ed; 24-07-19 at 03:24 PM.

  17. #1607
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    Absolute Hammer als immer. Gehts weiter Jung!
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    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .


  18. #1608
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    So a box of laser cut stuff turned up

    Part 1: Vernier swan neck with 1deg incremental adjustment over 10deg range. Sexy aero fasteners and all




  19. #1609
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Part 2: endplates with lower slats (not bent up yet) along with end-inserts for the chord mould so the endplates have something to hold onto



    Last edited by doctor ed; 27-07-19 at 07:39 AM.

  20. #1610
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Part 3: subframe supports for the upper rear end of the diffuser. Mounted to the diffuser with m6 rubber isolators for a little jiggle room




  21. #1611
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doctor ed View Post
    i did the rounds through the MSA/FIA rain lights a while ago. the cartek is certainly a good one, but fuck me drunk its a bit spendy for a few blinking LEDs

    theres a couple of more sanely priced options, in particular i like this one which is bothe MSA compliant, and E-makred for use as a fog light: https://www.competitionsupplies.com/...e-msa-approved

    its going to look like balls when mounted. maybe i can integrate it into the middle of the rear mesh. hmmm. scratches head
    Shop around because the light you linked is a trailer fog light, can get cheaper from other suppliers. I doubt that supplier got the MSA certification themselves, although it would be a good idea to check.

  22. #1612
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Yeah, I actually went and got the fia docs and looked up which lights are approved... that ones not. That said there’s a few std 3rd brake lights (BMW and Aston Martin for eg) which are approved. Used EBay prices for some of these aren’t bad ($30). Not breaking a sweat on it yet though

    https://www.fia.com/sites/default/fi...-feu_pluie.pdf
    Last edited by doctor ed; 27-07-19 at 09:00 PM.

  23. #1613
    Registered User lightyear's Avatar
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    Looking good. You must be having a bit of fun researching, designing and creating all these parts. I should invest a bit more time and money in my own aero. Plywood on a race car isn't cool these days.
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  24. #1614
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightyear View Post
    Looking good. You must be having a bit of fun researching, designing and creating all these parts.
    honestly, that's 75% of the enjoyment. meanwhile i just flog the gokart or the porka (which is working flawlessly again btw post swiss alps fuckup. no BHG, just blew the coolant header tank. explains the slow leak i was telling you about in the days beforehand)
    Mit freundlichen Grüße

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  25. #1615
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Photo dump time...

    Part 1 - went and got the front clam out of storage, and am starting to rough out the needy to get it mounted.


  26. #1616
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Part 2 - got uprights and sundry other parts back from laser cutters, and got Dominik from Kopp Racing to do the welding (needed it done properly, not some of my birdshit splatter)








  27. #1617
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Part 3 - drilled and tapped the core endplate supports, and made everything fit together. The core endplate supports I also grooved along the outside with a grinder so the bond with the carbonfibre there is mechanically keyed, and will never rip apart







    Last edited by doctor ed; 19-08-19 at 07:07 AM.

  28. #1618
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Part 4 - bonded some flanged captured nuts into the wing core (specifically for laminates with big perforated flanges) and did a first reinforcing layer of 245gsm over the mounts




  29. #1619
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Part 5 - not many pics here as being covered in resin and having hands like a negro Chewbacca isn’t conducive to taking photos. Summarized... with the core out of the mould (the female halves of the cut foam core) hand laid 2 layers of 245gsm twill up wet directly onto the core. Then with the mould (as I knew this was going to be a one off, so wanted to minimize my time investment) i simply laid a shiny 0.5mm PVC sheet into the mould, and laid the core directly onto this without any further prep. I then wrapped the pvc over the leading edge of the core, and draped it over the top in one smooth move (first pic below. pvc is shiny side to the carbon, textured side up). Gently squeegeed the pvc smooth and laid the top half of the female mould directly on top. So foam core, wrapped in carbon, wrapped in pvc sandwiched into the female halves of the cut foam (according to the foam cutter guy the cutting wire takes about 0.8-1.0mm of material away, so my 0.5mm pvc sheet left ~0.4mm of space for my laminate, which was about right). This all then went into a vac bag and got parked and ignored for 48hrs



    Last edited by doctor ed; 19-08-19 at 08:30 AM.

  30. #1620
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Part 6 - the reveal. Did I fuck it up or not?! I did not! Released from the pvc perfectly. Some pinholing and a couple of air inclusions, but nothing heart breaking. 99% fucking unreal result for a first crack. Post cured it for about 4hrs (2/side) under a IR light. Managed to hold it at 80degC. (the post cure recommendation is 120degC. Couldn’t get it that hot in my foyer) *shrugs* also managed to find my fasteners again without much drama (measure thrice!) and only needed a gentle thread chase














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