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Thread: Eds Lotus 116 GT3

  1. #481
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doctor ed View Post
    It's full size.... kindve. The body is a full size mki shell, and outside dimensions remain unchanged. Wheelbase of the vx is about 70mm shorter overall though, so there's a bit of wheel arch fudgery going on, ie slight shift and reshape of the arches. I find it hard to tell to be honest, and without a side-side comparison you can't pick it imho.
    The wheelbase fudgery explains why it looked a little off to me - couldn't put my finger on it. Probably unnoticeable in the flesh.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  2. #482
    Registered User bg0013's Avatar
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    [IMG]IMG_20160528_103726.jpg[/IMG]

    upside down, but needs some wings and a decent front splitter when you want to go fast.
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  3. #483
    Registered User schnitzelburger's Avatar
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    spooooge

    i mean

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  4. #484
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    ive got this already lined up (from the audi40 i had designed...)

    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  5. #485
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trdee View Post
    im susprised you need to use factory wheels because it's such a cunt to certify aftermarket stuff, yet slapping a custom composite body onto a car is no biggie to get approved??
    ist all about certification.

    individual components have to be tested, and come with TV certification. wheels are naturally difficult, as theres about 1000 different offsets and widths etc, and for an aftermarket supplier to have each individual combination certified... yeah, doesnt happen. so with wheels youre best to stick with BIG brands, preferably german ones, or oem, as the certifcation is all there. getting a no-Name brand wheel certified is simply not possible for an individual.

    same goes for the myriad of other "imporant" components on the car.

    for the Body... ist a bit of a grey zone. firstly, theres the aerodynamic changes youre introduced. normally thuis would require windtunnel or track stability testing (at the Speeds designated by your given engine/gearbox Combo) but for the GT40 its basically already a certified road car, and can kindve just be accepted 'on spec' that its ok. secondly is the material its made from. GFK Body Panels etc are almost universally banned in Germany, as the material, epoxy, and Laminate process is too dependant on the individual. you can get parts certified, but you have to supply a Piece for destructive testing (Impact resistnace, splitter Formation/sharpness, fire retardation/burn Speed etc). luckily ive actually found a manufacturer who have a TV pre-approval for Body component manufacture... if you use exclusivly their materials, and lay up in the given technique (as per TV documentation) then the final part is assumed to be TV certified.

    i Need to present this process to the engineer, and get his tick of approval still, but first Impression was its all good.

    its all about the paperwork. if you can Support each decision with a Piece of certified paper, then itll get signed off on
    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  6. #486
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    ps... ignore all the random capiltalised words. Computer at work tries to do some Auto spell-check coreection, and capitalises the words as if i was writing in german
    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  7. #487
    Registered User trdee's Avatar
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    mad. best of luck with it

  8. #488
    I make people cry Draven's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doctor ed View Post
    ps... ignore all the random capiltalised words. Computer at work tries to do some Auto spell-check coreection, and capitalises the words as if i was writing in german
    "work"

    Isn't someone dying nearby?

    (he says, typing from his work computer)

  9. #489
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bg0013 View Post
    upside down, but needs some wings and a decent front splitter when you want to go fast.
    I dunno - the standard GT40 shape worked pretty well for 3 of the 4 LeMans wins... :P
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  10. #490
    Registered User bg0013's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    I dunno - the standard GT40 shape worked pretty well for 3 of the 4 LeMans wins... :P
    worked great by 1960's standards, not against modern gt3 machinery

  11. #491
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    8,5 and 10x17 OZ 3pc forged. Needs spacers to fill gt40 arches properly... ends up ET -12 at the front and ET -1 at the back. 225/265 Tyre combo. Should send the understeer a little towards the back

    Lol, yes, priorities. Still cheap enough go to resell at no-loss/profit if things change

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    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  12. #492
    caibstastic!!1 caibs's Avatar
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    They are amazing

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    some fucken busted ass peice of shit

  13. #493
    Registered User FioriGuy's Avatar
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    I have some H&R TUV approved 20mm 5x120 bolt on spacers i'll sell cheapish if you'd like.

  14. #494
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Lol, close but not quite. I need 20mm 5/110-120 adapter spacers.
    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  15. #495
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doctor ed View Post
    in the rear ear/air inlet currently sits my small oem A2A intercooler. its a tall skinny thing, with small end tanks top and bottom. that currently sits righ above where i want to put the pump, and whilst thinking 'where do i put a small reservior/filler bottle' why not use the A2A IC core thats sitting there as a reservior? bonus cooling! i dont need a huge capacity, this thing is already custom fit to size, it should flow a ton of water, and it would be a n easy enough job to cut-n-shut the end tanks to suit some 25/32mm push on barb ...
    So, picking this back up again...

    Having now actually looked at the A2A intercooler I've got, and how conveniently positioned it is, I'm debating whether to actually use ONLY the A2A as my heat exchanger.

    If I keep it as my only heat exchanger, I can save a ton of extra piping from the rear to front of the car and back. Piping that's a) full of water and accordingly heavy, and b) introduces a big restriction to pump flow rate.

    So... I had a bit of a look at cooler core designs. Water radiators generally just use a simple tube without an extrusion profile for the water path in the core. I assume this is partly a cost and simplicity thing. But decent brand oil coolers use a very intercooler-esque tube and fin profile.

    I dug up this pic specifically comparing a A2A tube and fin core (top), to an oil cooler tube and fin core (bottom). Note the only difference I see is the oil core has narrower channels.

    Certainly not a huge leap to say a tube and fine A2A core would function perfectly fine as a heat exchanger for a liquid

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    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  16. #496
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    And this is the cooler core I'd be using.

    It's actually a pretty fucking hefty chunk of intercooler. Dual row and about 100mm thick. Relative to the actual IC core, it's pretty bloody big, so I'm pretty confident* that it'll be capable of shedding heat out of the circuit. It's not an endurance racer, it'll do track days, but it's not going to be ultra abused. For road car shenanigans it'd be fine.

    As mentioned, reducing the resistance of the coolant circuit to just the IC core, 2 short runs of 25mm hose, and this heat exchanger, I think I could absolutely smash it with water flow from the EWP115.

    Interestingly, someone mentioned in a thread in here too, something I hadn't considered... off boost, the intake air flowing through the IC core also cools the water, so having a big IC core (which I have) also helps the recovery cooling capability

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    *based on nothing factual
    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  17. #497
    Loving teh titties.. carcrazy's Avatar
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    This thing is cool and I really have nothing else to say but I suggest you continue.
    Quote Originally Posted by Einstein
    The definition of insanity is repeating the same action and expecting a different result

  18. #498
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    That it's cool enough to be worth the time to type that, good enough for me cheers

    Meanwhile, got me thinking about active cooling for the W2A...
    http://www.penguinslab.com/peltier.htm
    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  19. #499
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    So... fri night beer on the sofa...

    Say I get a big fuck off Peltier plate. Most reasonable one I can find is the tec1-12730
    Data sheet here: http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/peltier.d...TEC1-12730.pdf

    Let's say I put 2 big heatsinks on the peltier, the hotsde I can put into some ducted airflow, or mount a fan on, the cold side heatsink i make a small box around with hose fittings at either end, so water can flow along the heatsink fins and get the best heat transfer from water to the peltier.

    Let's assume a not so ideal setup with a poorly cooled hotside, and a goal water temp of say 10degC (10 below ambient). With a 40degC temp differential, puts the heatsink at say 50degC... good for working this out. If I can make cooling on the hotside really good, the numbers get better, but for now I'll leave it at that.

    At 50degC hotside and 40degC temp diff, it'll pull about 20A and pump out around 80W of heat.

    So let's say the W2A cooler circuit has 5L of water in it. Let's say it's 40degC when I turn the cooler on, and the goal is 10deg (30degC temp drop). Cooling equation is q=mdTCp = 5000g * 30 C * 4.18 J/g-C = 627000 J, or 627 kJ.

    The peltier element moves 80 W, which means 80 J/s, or 0.080 kJ/s.

    So to drop 30degC from 5L, it'll take 7837 seconds, or 130mins

    Yeah, no.

    Let's look at it a different way... what about just trying to get a 10degC improvement in temp, getting say from 30degC that the heat exchanger achieves, and just knocking that last 10degC down to 20degC ambient.

    Let's also assume same hotside cooling, leaving only 30degC temp differential, hotside again at 50degC.

    5000g * 10 C * 4.18 J/g-C = 209000 J, or 209 kJ.

    The peltier element now runs at about 21A and moves 110 W, which means 110 J/s, or 0.110 kJ/s.

    So to cool down 5L of water 10degC -once- were looking at 1900sec, or 31 mins

    Not great, no, but not dreadful. Not convinced it's good for cooling a dynamic load situation but might have some role somewhere.

    Edit... Last best case scenario...

    Say the cooling of the hotside is really good, it's at 30degC (10 above ambient). And the water coming out of the heat exchanger is similarly 30degC, and I'm wanting to buffer, or improve temps within a 5degC window.

    The peltier element now runs at about 25A and moves around 220 W = 220 J/s, or 0.22 kJ/s.

    .22kJ/s in 5L of water... what can it do in 60sec? 13.2kJ = 0.65degC per min, or around 3degC every 5mins
    Last edited by doctor ed; 22-10-16 at 07:58 AM.
    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  20. #500
    Registered User TRD-MX62's Avatar
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    if your looking at active cooling why not repurpose the factory AC?

    http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article...oling&A=110600
    Last edited by TRD-MX62; 22-10-16 at 07:55 AM.

  21. #501
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    There is no AC
    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  22. #502
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    What's the dimensions of the a2a core, and is it specific for this thing? Looks like it would be a nice upgrade for the frogbox, not that I'm thinking about modding it. But you know, stuff happens.

  23. #503
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    I'll have to measure it, but I'll let you know next time I go out there
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  24. #504
    Registered User jimmyg's Avatar
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    Not afraid of getting in and having a Crack are you. One of the most fun and different builds on PF atm. Loving it.
    Mmmmmmmmm beer.

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  25. #505
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    Just catching up on this one, yep, go the GT40 body.....

  26. #506
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    wow, no update since oct... you can tell the weather has been shit!

    so, in answer to A2A IC core size: 320x120mm and 100mm thick (double 50mm core) plus end tanks

    also, i never got the OZ wheels posted above... but just got home from picking up a set of similar 3pc OZ's, these with more traditional visible bolt heads

    8.5 x 17 ET13
    10.0 x 17 ET19



    http://www.raeder-gutachten.de/gutac...857m2k_bmw.pdf
    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  27. #507
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    So, back into it.

    Short term goal is to get it reassembled, running and tv'd as a vx220, and all that before the end of August *cough*
    Perhaps at the very least have the engine in and the mechanicals functioning. I've got a date with a local spray booth to get the sills and b columns done sometime in the next month or so, and that'll let me reassemble things like windscreen, firewall and roll bar etc, permenantly.

    Status as of yesterday... 3 months of WD and cycling butane torch, I got the rear subframe off the donor in one piece, and only two snapped bolts that needed weld-extraction. Rear suspension/wishbones etc ready to go in. I need to swap out the hubs with new skf replacements due to an ABS sensor stuff up, but then it'll be able to roll on it's own 2 wheels







    So on the immediate to do list:
    - strip remaining needed bits off the donor chassis and fuck it off
    - replace wheels hubs x4 with new skf's
    - install brakelines, and finish master cyl/abs hardlines
    - finish installing suspension, attach wheels, lower to ground, and tighten all the goddamn fasteners
    - get the sill painted
    - modify OEM seat brackets to lower the standard drivers seat
    - build modified firewall/insert for W2A core

    That'll keep me busy for a bit!
    Last edited by doctor ed; 21-04-17 at 03:00 PM.
    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Duckworth View Post
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

  28. #508
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    Much fun and adventures lol

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  29. #509
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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  30. #510
    Hungry Hungry Hippo Tripper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doctor ed View Post

    Status as of yesterday... 3 months of WD and cycling butane torch, I got the rear subframe off the donor in one piece, and only two snapped bolts that needed weld-extraction.
    its a bit late but a 50/50 mix of tranny fluid( car stuff not fondles stuff) and acetone is one of the best penetrating fluids you can get. need to shake it up before use as it does separate some what
    you cant spell advertisements without semen between the tits

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